Birds And Birding In Norway

I made a quick trip to Sotra and Herdla on the island of Askøy on the 3/9. The only bird of any interest on Sotra was a Hobby that was seen at Tjeldstø. Herdla proved to be better with a good selection of wildfowl, 4 species of bird of prey including White-tailed Eagle and Peregrine Falcon and a good selection of waders, some like Ringed Plover and Ruff were in good numbers. Some of the more interesting included 8 little Stint, 1 Temminck’s Stint, 1 Curlew Sandpiper and a Black-tailed Godwit. There was also a good selection of passerines, though not a lot of time was spent checking the area in detail. Of the passerines that are worth mentioning a single Whinchat and 6 Twite were recorded. All in all a good few hours birding.

The regions of Varangerfjord and the Pasvik Valley need no introduction. Both are well known birding areas with many visiting birders, especially during late May and June. These are the prime times to visit these areas, and the times of the year when I usually head north beyond the Arctic Circle. But what are these areas like in mid August? Little did I know, but I have just found out.

The trip started as usual with a flight to Kirkenes and a drive along Munkfjord on the way to Varangerbotn. The first Red and Black-throated Divers were soon recorded, but only single birds. The fjords were quiet with only small flocks of Common Goldeneye and Goosander. Gull numbers too were low with Herring being the most common. As for waders only Eurasian Oystercatcher was noted but this changed at Varangerbotn when Ringed Plover and Dunlin could be added to the trip list. From Varangerbotn the next stop was Nesseby.  During spring this is a wader hot-spot but once again only Ringed Plover and Dunlin were seen. Further out on the sandbanks a lone family of Common Shelduck and a small flock of Greylag Geese could be seen feeding. The rest of the fjord was void for birds except for a flock of Eurasian Wigeon. It wasn’t till late evening that the first “Varanger” specialty was seen, a single Red-throated Pipit was seen at Saltjern. Along the shore two Bar-tailed Godwits and small numbers of Turnstone could be seen with the usual Ringed Plover and Dunlins. Other than that most of the time was spent checking the huge numbers of gulls for something special and the Common Eider flocks for either King or Steller’s. An early morning start on the 20^th with a walk around the culture park at Vadsø produced a small flock of Lapland Bunting, several more Red-throated Pipit, one or two Meadow Pipit and the odd Willow Warbler. From Vadsø the next stop was Vardø but not before stopping to watch White-tailed Eagle and Eurasian Golden Plover on the way.  On the fjord huge rafts of sea-duck could be seen, not only Common Eiders but good numbers of Goosander and smaller flocks of Long-tailed Duck, Common Scoter, Velvet Scoter and Red-breasted Mergansers. At Vardø the first stop was the point at Hasselnes. Her one can see out to Hornøy and decide if it is worth hiring a boat out. It wasn’t !! The cliffs that hold thousands of breeding seabirds from late May were empty except for Great Cormorants, Shags and the usual flocks of Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls. I halfway expected this, but I had hoped that there would still be some birds on the sea, but here too I was disappointed. Only a few Common Guillemot, Black Guillemot and Atlantic Puffin could be seen. Out at sea small flocks of Black-Legged Kittiwake whizzed past, caught on the strong wind while the few Gannets that were knocking about were in their element. However all was not lost. While stood at Hasselnes the trips only Steller’s Eider flew past.

With rekindled  a drive from Vardø to Hemmingsborg was next on the agenda. This is a spectacular stretch of coast line that has produced some interesting observations during past years. The days first of five Merlin was noted and a stop overlooking a small lake produced a female Greater Scaup with young. Checking Prestnaering bay produced a few Red and Black-throated Diver as well as a pair of Whooper Swan that flew overhead. Out at see the only skuas to be seen on this stretch of coast were recorded at this point when 3 Arctic flew by. The rest of the drive was a case of stop and start, checking the huge numbers of gulls and ducks along the way. Though at times this was tedious, it did produce a single White-billed Diver. I am sure that this bird would have been over-looked if not for stopping to check the sea-duck. The cliffs that tower up from the roadside are impressive, and even more so when two Gyr Falcon can be watched. I got the impression that it was an adult bird teaching a younger bird some of the skills it air acrobatics, it was certainly a great sight and a lot more interesting than the Common Ravens that were the usual species to soar over the edge of the cliffs. Back along the shore small flocks of Eurasian Oystercatcher and a small flock of Red Knot were the only waders to be seen while at one fresh water river a small flock of Spotted Redshank were actively feeding, some still in breeding plumage. Passerines were low in numbers except for the odd Meadow Pipit and Northern Wheatear. I was disappointed not to record Red-necked Phalarope or Bluethroat on the 20^th but this was put right on the 21^st.
On drawing back my curtains of my hotel room, a single Red-necked Phalarope was feeding in the harbour, a mere 20 yards away.  That was the first of many that day with a total count of over 70. The day also produced a scattering of Bluethroats, most of them feeding amongst the sea-weed. Most of the birding up to now had been along the coast, time to head inland and check the vast areas of bog and willow scrub. Stopping the car Willow Grouse could be heard calling as well as Shore Lark and Lapland Bunting. A small lake produced a pair of Red-throated Diver and a single Dunlin flew up somewhat alarmed. Driving to the next area was soon cut short when a Rough-legged Buzzard was seen, and soon joined by another one. Both flew alongside the road before flying out of sight. Turning off the main road onto a gravel path heading inland again soon produced a small flock of Eurasian Golden Plover and a few Ruff by the side of the road and 9 Whooper Swans on a large lake. Other than that it was mostly the same species with 20+ Meadow Pipit, 4 Bluethroat, a single Sedge Warbler and a few more Lapland Buntings.

It was time to say goodbye to the Varanger peninsula and head for the other prime birding area of the region, the Pasvik Valley. But would it be prime in August? Here I have to say no. Compared with spring, the autumn was a disappointment. Once again I didn’t know what to expect but I had hoped for flocks of migrating passerines and good numbers of waterfowl. Birding was hard to say the least with mile after mile of quiet woodlands and empty lakes. One or two Red and Black-throated Diver were seen with one pair of Black-throated with two fledgling young. Only two small flocks of Greylag Geese were recorded, one of which held two Bean Geese. Duck numbers were in general low with a flock of Eurasian Wigeon, 4 Common Teal, a few Mallard, small flocks of Tufted Duck, 12 Common Goldeneye, a single Smew and one or two Goosander.
One nice surprise was a flock of Common Crane flying towards Skrotnes, a species that was seen or heard on several occasions while in the area. Around Svanhovd Meadow Pipit and White Wagtail were noted in small numbers while only three Yellow Wagtail were seen. Checking an area of rough pasture produced a cracking Arctic Redpoll and 3 Reed Bunting. Other than that the only other species worth noting in the Svanvik area was the trips first Siberian Jay and Great Grey Shrike. The remaining days were spent searching for some of the Pasvik Valley specialities like Pine Grosbeak. This species unfortunately remained elusive but while looking for it several Siberian Jay were seen, small numbers of Willow Warbler, a few Pied Flycatcher and a Spotted Flycatcher. Several  Siberian Tit were also recorded as well as a flock of 30+ Bohemian Waxwing. The highlight of the Pasvik valley however was an Arctic Warbler, while on the very last day 2 Two-barred Crossbills were seen. That is about it give one or two of the common species that I have not mentioned. One thing that is for sure, if you are ever told that mosquitoes are not a problem at Pasvik so late in the season – don’t you believe them! In a few days I leave for the bird of prey migration at Falsterbo in southern Sweden, something I am really looking forward to.

Late summer heralds the start of wader movements here at Voss. July, a time when most people are in the middle of their summer holidays, us birders are witnessing the start of the autumn migration when the first waders start moving down from their mountain breeding grounds. A morning visit to one of my local haunts produced juv Ringed Plover, 3 Common Redshanks, 2 Greenshank and 5 Common Sandpiper. A welcome surprise was an adult and a juv Green Woodpecker, could they have breed in the surrounding woodland? Next stop was a place called Ulvikpollen. Situated on the Hardangerfjord, this small tidal area has produced a good selection of waders during late summer. However all was quiet . A Common Crane was the best bird. It was stood beside a juv Grey Heron so it was interesting to compare the size difference between these two “long legged” species. Hoping to see some warblers I took a walk along the old disused railway line at Øvre Granvin. Like most disused railway lines thick and lush vegetation provide perfect habitat for several passerines. A family of Blackcap were the first to be found followed by Willow Warbler, the only other species of warbler to be found. There were plenty of other birds to watch though. Fieldfare and Song Thrush were feeding on the first of this year’s berries while Common Chaffinch and Yellowhammer were looking for seeds along the path. On reaching the fields a family of Whinchat “ticked” nervously as I approached while out on the lake that runs beside the railway line, a Great Cormorant was busy fishing and a female Red-breasted Merganser tried to keep her 5 small chicks in tow behind her.  

A young bull moose feeding at Pasvik. If you look closely at its side you will see a scratch mark. We were told that this was done by a Brown Bear.

It has been a while since I last had time to update my blog. Since last time I have been to Sweden, England and the far north of Norway so there hasn't been much time for any writing.. Birding the far north is always exciting, though this time ice cold strong winds, snow showers every day and lashing rain put a damper on things and made birding difficult to say the least. However the people that I was guiding still enjoyed the trip and that is the main thing. After our arrival at Kirkenes we were soon driving along the Varangerfjord where we saw our first Steller’s Eiders, a stunning little duck. A stop at Nesseby produced the trips first Red-necked Phalaropes as well as some of the commoner waders. We stayed 2 nights at Vardø. This gave us the chance to visit Hornøy to see the Brunnich’s Guillimots and the thousands of other breeding seabirds. We also drove to Hammingberg watching Red-throated Pipits on the way. From the Varanger peninsula we drove to Pasvik. This is a truly great area with huge expanses of taiga forest with such species as Pine Grossbeak. All in all we saw nearly 100 species which was good considering the very bad weather. Birding locally around Voss has also been interesting so far this summer with a scattering of semi rare species for the county. June produced a Common Rosefinch and a few Marsh Warbler. The long staying Common Crane was still present at Ulvikpollen before I left for England while the highlights so far in July have been Corncrakes and a 2cy Glaucous Gull. I have just returned from guiding a group of birders at Jæren, south of Stavanger. It was a little early for wader migration but we did see Temminck’s Stint which was a new species for most of them. Westerly winds produced a scattering of Manx Shearwaters. Jæren is a great place for birding and I would highly recommend a visit if you are ever in Norway. I stayed at the Jæren Hotel at Bryne. Situated in the centre of Jæren it is a great hotel with great service and the best steak in Norway.  

Stonechat a rare breeding species in Norway

  With Easter came the snow. Not unusual here in Norway, especially that Easter is so early this year, but even so, I had planned to check out some Woodpecker localities, not an easy job when there is a foot or more of snow. No, it had to be a drastic change of plans and head for the milder climate of an island on the west coast of Norway. Even here it had snowed, but not as much as at home and as I set up my telescope the sun was melting what snow lay on the ground. Looking out to sea the first flock of birds flew into view. 22 Eurasian Oystercatchers, these were followed by a small flock of Atlantic Puffin. This was how it continued during the half hour I kept vigil. Flock after flock of Oiks and Puffins, all heading north. Amongst these there was the odd flock of Common Guillemot and Eurasian Curlew. Northern Gannets flew north further out at sea while on the nearby rocks both Great Cormorant and Shag stood side by side. Next stop was some farmland to check for migrants. Meadow Pipit and Pied Wagtail were feeding. Pied Wagtail are not common in Norway, but every spring small numbers find their way to the west coast. A flurry of white wings caught my attention, a flock of Snow Bunting – welcome home guys. Greylag Geese and a remaining Whooper Swan were feeding on a nearby lake, were they uneasy with my presence? A Common Raven also gave an alarm call, and no wonder, looking up produced 3 White-tailed Eagles. Next stop was an area of fjord about a kilometre from the open sea. I had hoped for some sea-duck but I must say I was disappointed. No Scoters, only a few Common Eider and a hand full of Long-tailed Duck. Red-breasted Mergansers and Common Goldeneye’s however were in good numbers. While checking through the flocks an adult White-tailed Eagle flew low over the sea and landed on a small island, this was quickly joined by another adult bird while at the same time two immature birds flew overhead. No less than 4 birds – what more could one ask for. However the lack of ducks pushed me on to yet another locality. Here I found the ducks. 72 Long-tailed Ducks, 100 or so Common Eider. There was also small numbers of Common Scoter and yes, dare I say it another 4 White-tailed Eagle. These were not the only raptor about, A Peregrine Falcon was keeping an eye on things from her sea cliff perch. One last scan through the scope produced a winter plumaged Great Northern Diver and a flock of 18 Purple Sandpiper -  a nice way to end the session. You may have noticed I have not named the locality where I was birding, the reason for this is, as you have no doubt guessed it, there is a good breeding population of White-tailed Eagles. There is also a healthy population of Eagle Owls and two nesting areas that were checked looked very promising for this year. Before leaving the island for a neighbouring island I noted Stonechat, Crested Tit and the last White-tailed Eagle of the day. All in all 12 of these magnificent birds of prey. It was nearly four in the afternoon when I arrived at my last port of call. Not the best time to start birding but one or two interesting species to add on to my days list. A single Slav Grebe feed amongst the 30 or so Velvet Scoter and other sea duck while in the surrounding fields a flock of over 50 Snow Bunting and a single Lapland Bunting were busy feeding before the onslaught of dusk and another night on the cold west coast of Norway.

The lake and part of the valley. For more info on Voss click here

Today was my first opportunity to get in some birding after returning from England, and even though there was still a lot of snow about, spring was in the air. First stop was an area where 12 Bohemian Waxwings were seen on Friday, but no luck! No doubt they were on their way further north. I turned my attention to the lakes and river systems that creep their way through the valley. If any migrants were to be found it would be here, and I wasn’t to be disappointed. Small flocks of Northern Lapwing, Common Starling and Snow Bunting were recorded. A flock of 72 Whooper Swans were also feeling the signs of spring. They were very vocal and were no doubt impatient to get under way to their arctic breeding grounds. Mallard, Tufted Duck and Common Goldeneye had been joined by this year’s first flocks of Common Teal, while at one locality there was a pair of Goosander, the male showing a pink tinge to his plumage. The only other interesting species to be seen at the wetland habitats that were visited was a single Grey Wagtail. If this was the bird that was recorded during February, or an arrival it is impossible to say. No matter what, it was nice to see a splash of colour. It was also nice to hear the bubbling call of a White-throated Dipper. The woodlands were also starting to come alive with both Blue Tit and Great Tit checking out prospective nesting holes. A pair of Marsh Tit were picking at the new buds on a willow tree while further amongst the trees a Eurasian Nuthatch was calling loudly. Most surprising was a Nutcracker, also calling loudly. This species tends to be very quiet before and during its breeding season.

Today I had a meeting to attend. The thought of sitting in a meeting for most of the day didn’t seem promising at all. But as things turned out, it wasn’t too bad. The meeting took place at hotel overlooking a fjord, and I made an extra effort to secure a seat near one of the bay windows. With two eyes on the fjord and an ear following what was said, the meeting flew by. It helped that there were one or two birds to watch. A Great Northern Diver spent most of its time preening while the4 or 5 Great Cormorants that were about spent their time fishing. A fishing boat also passed by, followed by hundreds of gulls. Most of them looked like Herring as well as a few Great Black-backed, but what else was amongst them? Both Glaucous and Iceland had been seen in the area during the previous weeks, but there were just too many wings and a hopeless job without bins. The final species to make an entrance was an adult White-tailed Eagle. That soon put paid to the flocks of gulls that were hanging around. After the meeting was finished I decided to stretch my legs. There was still two hours of day light left so I headed to Herdla on the neighbouring island of Askøy. It was late in the day, something reflected in the lack of species and numbers. Checking the fjord produced another Great Northern Diver. Great Cormorants were also recorded, some fishing while others dried their plumage on a small island. A single Grey Heron spent its time fishing in the shallows while out on the fjord there was a good selection of waterfowl with Mallard, Long-tailed Duck, Velvet Scoter, Common Goldeneye and a few pairs of Red-breasted Merganser. Another bird to be seen on the fjord was a single Razorbill as well as one or two gulls. I say one or two because there wasn’t many compared to my last visit. Passerines were really thin on the ground. There were several Rock Pipit along the fjord, while a walk over the field produced a single Meadow Pipit. I also took time to check a small area of woodland and was rewarded with a Robin and a Crested Tit. All in all not a bad day considering most of my time was spent indoors.  

On today’s walk I followed the river from the lake. After leaving the Whooper Swans I made my way downstream. The bubbling of the river nearly made me think of spring despite the surrounding ice and snow. Mallards were feeding along the banks while a pair of Common Goldeneye  stuck to the deeper water. While watching the goldeneye’s,  a black and white blob flew past with whirring wings, a White-throated Dipper. Not a nice way to describe the bird perhaps, but I think it is fitting. The Dipper landed on the edge of the ice, only to jump out into the ice cold flows of the river and disappear under the fast flowing currents. In the surrounding woodland I could hear Goldcrest calling, not one but several, they seem to have been low in numbers so far this winter so it was nice recording so many. Further in between the pine trees I could hear a Great-spotted Woodpecker chipping, I was not the only one, another woodpecker soon answered making two birds present. Returning my attentions to the river I was just in time to see a pair of Goosander head up stream. This was soon followed by today’s rarity – a Herring Gull. Seeing this species, far away from the coast and in the middle of winter started me thinking of global warming and what other species I will be watching here at Voss in a few years time in the middle of winter.

After two days of winter storms with strong wind, snow and heavy rainfall it looked like today would be better weather. Hoping for the best, I headed once more for the coast. This time I planned to visit Sotra, an outlying island from Bergen. However I decided on a quick detour to a park in the centre of Beregn to try and find a flock of Hawfinch that have been there for most of the winter. I was not to be disappointed and after a short wait 7 flew into the trees above me. I never get tired of watching this spectacular finch, and though they are uncommon in the west of Norway they now seem to be an annual winter visitor to this park. Now back to the coast. I still had an hours drive to where I wanted to start at the top end of the island. A place called Svellingen was to be my first stop. This is a place I often visit during spring and autumn but birding there in the middle of January can be a cold affair and today was no different. There was a strong cold breeze blowing in off the sea. However 2 White-tailed Eagles soon made me forget the cold. One was sat on a rock making it very easy to scope while the other was in the air. The eagles were not the only raptors in the area. A female Eurasian Sparrowhawk was hunting low over the ground, each garden was paid a visit but for no avail. Not a passerine in sight, something I too found disappointing. Seaduck numbers too were low. No doubt the previous few days with gales had sent them looking for shelter further into the surrounding fjord systems. Other than small flocks of