Birds And Birding In Norway

Despite gale force winds most days, as well as rain, and even hail showers several interesting species were seen and the trip was enjoyed by all. For a full trip report click here

There were not too many days left of week 39 after I returned from the UK. What was very disappointing however was that it was raining and most of the marshes were semi-flooded. A bright spot amongst the grey sky’s was a Eurasian Hobby at a place called Tvildemoen on the 25^th. On Sunday I had to pick up the wife in Bergen and managed a few hours on the island of Sotra before doing so. Guess what? It rained all day, if that wasn’t enough, there were also strong winds until at least noon. Sea-watching was a waste of time, visibility due to the rain, was hopeless. Looking for passerines was also difficult. The strong winds made searching the trees and bushes very difficult. Other than small numbers of Barnacle Geese and an adult White-tailed Eagle, there was little of interest to add to my note book. One highlight however was watching an Otter at Hellesøy for at least 10 minutes. In a couple of days I leave for Jæren, then onto Utsira returning from that trip on the 12/10. See you then with a full report.

The worst thing about Falsterbo is returning home, unless you live in an area that also has a fantastic bird life. Unfortunately Voss, though good, can’t be compared with Southern Sweden. To make matters worse it has rained every day since my return, and the area seems void of birds. A trip on Monday to what is supposed to be one of the better marshes here at Voss only produced a single Herring Gull. On Tuesday I spent some time in the woods and along the shoreline at the lake in the centre of Voss. Once again there was nothing of interest on the water and the shoreline was bare, except for a few White Wagtails. The woods were a little more lively with still good numbers of Willow Warbler and three male Blackcap, but most of the species I recorded on my previous visit had either dropped in numbers or left the area. On my way home a Eurasian Sparrowhawk flew in front of the car and a Nutcracker flew from a top of a pine. Not the most exciting birding, if things don’t improve today, I will have to search the internet for cheap air tickets, and hopefully a few more birds to watch. Today, the 9/9, I visited a higher woodland area, looking down towards the lake in the centre of Voss, I could see very heavy flooding. Where I birded yesterday was now well under water. Hopefully I would find more birds, but alas no such luck. It was really windy with large trees swaying from side to side, so that didn’t help matters much. Other than a visible Meadow Pipit and Common Chaffinch (photo) movement there were only small flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing. Two Green Woodpecker were calling and small flocks of Common Crossbill were feeding in the tops of pines. So with such a dismal species list, I am off home to England, I will try and update my blog at the end of the month, before I head for Utsira.

With last weekend’s heavy rains and new heavy showers on Monday, what wader habitat that had appeared soon disappeared and flooding soon took over. Despite this I started the week with a morning trip to Prestegardsmoen and Grandane in the centre of Voss. Things were quiet with the only species of any interest being 3 Parrot Crossbill. The next stop was Gjernesmoen and I found myself wading through 5 cm of water to get out to the small island at the mouth of the River Bordalen. The bushes and small trees on the island were teaming with passerines, of these 2 Bluethroat were the most interesting but there were also Siskin, Twite, Common Redpoll, Yellowhammer and Reed Buntings as well as the numerous Willow Warblers.
On Tuesday I decided to head for the mountains and was rewarded with a Golden Eagle and a Common Redstart. This was the first Redstart I had seen in Voss this year, despite spending several hours trying to find singing males during the spring. On Wednesday I tried Gjernesmoen again, water levels had dropped and 2 Greenshank and 3 Common Sandpiper were in the area. Bluethroat numbers had risen to 6 birds and these had been joined by 4 Whinchat, all of which were in a small area of rough grassland and bushes. Thursday proved uninteresting, despite that I visited two of the local marshes, so I wasn’t full of hope when I left home on the Friday and headed for a new woodland area that I have never visited and found White-backed Woodpecker. The weekend went very quickly, but it also produced some interesting species with 2 Common Cuckoo and Common Kestrel at Herresåsen and 2 Peregrine Falcon at Granvin. Now I will have to pack my bags and set course for Falsterbo in Sweden. Next time I update my blog will be week 37. Good Birding everyone!!!

It was good to be back home in Voss and spend some time birding around old haunts.  It soon became evident that there were a few birds of prey about, especially Peregrine Falcon. A group of five near Lake Vangs on the 10/8 was very interesting. It looked like a family group with two parents and three young. They were playing havoc with a flock of Herring Gull and some Great Black-backed Gulls that roost near the lake. In addition to these birds I have had two birds flying over my house on two days, and a single bird at Myrkdalsdelta on the 15/9.I should think that they are all the same birds, but none the less, it is good having so many about.  Other than that I have had single White-tailed Eagle on the  Hardangerfjord, Northern Goshawk and Eurasian Sparrowhawk at woodland localities while mountain localities have produced Rough-legged Buzzard and Golden Eagle. The last bird of prey to add to the week’s list was a Merlin. (above photo)

Waders too have been passing through with birds moving down from their mountain breeding grounds. Ringed Plover were one of the first to appear, closely followed by a Temminck’s Stint and a Dunlin at a place called Gjernesmoen. This locality also produced no less than 14 Common Snipe on the 13/9. Greenshank have been recorded at two localities while Common Sandpiper seem to be following the main waterway system. One unexpected find was at Osafjord when a Black Guillemot (below photo)was recorded. Looking at the plumage it looks like a juv bird with its chocolate brown cap and markings on the wings. However this species is said not to breed in the fjord with the nearest known breeding sites on the coast. No matter where it came from it was a interesting observation.

Common Swift were still wheeling and screeching over Voss on the 11/9, but I don’t think they will be hanging around for much longer. Hirundinidae have been gathering in good numbers at different localities. At Lake Vang 40+ Barn Swallow could be seen feeding over the lake. House Martin however have notched the largest flock I have ever seen with over 160 birds at a place called Hegle. Other large concentrations of birds have included 80 White Wagtail on one of the fairways at the local golf course. One of the sure signs that Autumn is on its way are juv Bluethroats moving down from the surrounding mountains and being recorded at some of the local marshes. While the Bluethroats are on the move some of the commoner warblers are feeding on the wealth of berries that can be found at the moment. One bush produced 4 Blackcap, Garden Warbler and an unexpected Icterine. European Jay have not been too abundant this year but this week alone I have seen three. Nutcracker however seem to be everywhere with the best days count being 17 birds.

The last cruise ship of the season was yesterday (09/08) with the last port of call being Bergen and a half day trip to Herdla on the program. We arrived at about 9 o’clock and made our way out to Prestvika. Scanning the fjord we soon picked out a lone male Velvet Scoter amongst the 40 or so Common Eider. These were soon joined by a flock of Red-breasted Merganser so the group had enough to study. The tide was low and small flocks of waders started to fly in and join the already present European Oystercatcher, Ringed Plovers and Northern Lapwings. 11 Eurasian Curlew flew over, followed by 5 Bar-tailed Godwit. The Curlews flew on, but the Bar-tailed Godwits landed and started to feed. The next waders to land was a small flock of European Golden Plover and 2 Ruff, while a larger flock of Ruff continued flying out towards Valen. While walking out towards Valen a White-tailed Eagle flew over, putting the gulls and geese into the air before we had time to check through the flocks. It looked like the gull flock consisted mostly of Herring with one or two Common Gull and Greater Black-backs. While the geese flock consisted mostly of Canada Geese and small numbers of Greylag Geese, not that Greylag numbers were low, during the time we spent at Herdla at least 300 birds past over our heads heading south. Passerine numbers were low with Meadow Pipit being the commonest. Several Rock Pipit were recorded along the shoreline as well as a single Northern Wheatear. Other than that the only other interesting species was a Carrion Crow, an uncommon species here in the west of Norway. It was soon time to head back to the ship. If it is one thing I have learned while guiding on cruise ships is don’t arrive back late and get the captain angry. I said my good-bye's to the group and made my way home to Voss. It was good to arrive home, while passing Lake Seim, I could see that water levels were still high. However, I will be spending the next two weeks here at Voss before I leave for the bird of prey migration at Falsterbo in Sweden.

 

 

The cruise ship season is nearly over with the last ship of the year in a few days time. Voss seems to have been very quiet when I have been away, there are a couple of other birders who bird around Voss, and they have seen little of interest, so I don’t think I have missed much. One of the reasons for this could have been water levels at all lakes and marshes. It seems to have been constantly high, even today at one of the local marshes it was way above normal for this time of the year. Thankfully my guiding has taken me to some good localities so I have seen many interesting species during July. However, one of the more important observations was of a possible breeding Great Cormorant here locally. This species has never been found breeding in the county before so when I found this possible breeding site, I must admit there was a buzz of excitement. Problem was getting some documentation. The site was on the far side of Granvinfjord. From a boat it would be impossible to see the crack in the cliffs where I believed the Cormorant to be on the nest. It would be possible to climb down for an experienced mountain climber, something of which I am not. When I found the site there were 4 Cormorants resting, three flew away, leaving one, which you can just make out standing below. If you look at the small picture (below) which I have blown up, you can just see a bird sitting in the crevice. On my visit yesterday the crack looked empty. I couldn’t see any bird sitting or stood by the nest opening. If the species has breed, it could have been an infertile egg, hence no birds to be seen. Hopefully I will get some time next year to follow the site. In the meantime I will be spending a few days here at Voss before the next cruise ship, so I can only hope that water levels will drop and the rains stop.

With all the travelling and the start of the cruise ship season by mid June, there hasn’t been much time to update my blog. Not that I have much to write about at any rate. Guiding bird watchers that are travelling along the Norwegian coast on cruise ships is time consuming to say the least, and usually doesn’t make for the best birding. First, you may have two whole days with travelling to meet the cruise ship at its port of call, only to do a 4 hour guiding stint. Then it’s back in the car to dash to the next port of call, and meet a new ship and a new group. Taking into consideration that port of calls stretch from Oslo in the south to Trondheim in the north, then you will see what I mean. When you do meet a group it can be so many as 40, so it says in itself that you don’t see many species with such large groups. What is good however is the pleasure that these birders get birding in Norway. Many are from the USA so even Fieldfares are new species for them. The last few days here at Voss have been too warm to bird of a daytime. The best thing is to sit out on the veranda with a cold beer and watch the Pied Flycatcher (photo) and 2 Twite that are nesting nearby during the day, and try and get in some birding through the night when it is cooler.

Though I haven’t used a great amount of time it has produced Common Quail, Corncrake and a couple of Grasshopper Warblers. I have now got a couple of days here at Voss before the next cruise ship on the 3/7. After that it is virtually none stop until the middle of August. I will try and update my blog when and where I can. In the mean time have a great summer.

Only a few days bird watching in Voss this week, but what a few days. On the Thursday I visited Reppen, one of my local marshes only to be meet by a calling male Common Rosefinch. I revisited the area on the Friday only to find that the bird had flown. I decided to explore other parts of the delta in the hope of finding it again. No luck, however I was rewarded with an even better species, a singing male Blyth’s Reed Warbler. This is a rare species here in Norway and only the third time I have seen this species. This observation will take some beating and no doubt will be the “bird of the month” for me. I couldn’t revisit the locality on Saturday as I had arranged to do some birding on the Hardangervidda. On the ferry across the Hardangerfjord I took some pictures of the House Martins nesting on the ferry.  This happens every year, and this year there were several nests, some complete, while others were still under construction. It was interesting to watch the House Martins behaviour. Some remained onboard under the crossing, while it looked like others stayed near land and waited for the ferry to return, this happens about twice an hour.  The Hardangervidda was not disappointing, even though I did see any birds of prey, or manage to get to the better areas due to snow. There was the usual scattering of Shore Larks, Bluethroats, Lapland Buntings as well as some of the commoner waders. The day ended by visiting a valley to the east of the Hardangervidda to watch breeding Black-throated Diver, Common Crane and Red-necked Phalaropes. Today I revisited Reppen but no luck in finding the warbler. Tomorrow I am off to the coast, I will keep you posted.

 

 

    

Returned to find most of the marshes void of birds of any real interest. Maybe it’s time to take another trip? In the mean time, some more migrants seemed to have arrived, though I still have to find Wryneck, Common Redstart, Garden Warbler, and Common Whitethroat here at Voss. Are they just late, or are numbers so low that they are hard to find? I didn’t see the years first Common Cuckoo her at Voss until the 20/5, several days later than normal, so things may still be on their way. I have spent some time looking for woodpecker nest sites. At one locality there was a very agitated Great-spotted Woodpecker, but after I moved back, he seemed to accept my presence and settle down. Suddenly he seemed very uneasy and started calling with a rapid “kek-kek-kek-kek” call. Surely it couldn’t be me, I was sitting still. Then the reason for the woodpeckers alarm landed a few feet away, a Pygmy Owl (above photo).The second good owl within a week. The woods also produced two Common Crossbill, a rare sight so far this year at Voss and the year’s first Icterine Warbler. I have also been checking farmland for Sky Lark. At one time this was a common species all over Voss. So far this year I have found 3 singing males, and at one locality two single birds, possibly females. Let’s hope so, and that they breed.

The week started with a change of weather with Monday being a bright and warm day. A visit to Reppen, one of my local marshes proved to be interesting. A Peregrine Falcon made an appearance, but was quickly mobbed out of the area by a hoard of Meadow Pipits and White Wagtails. I didn’t have to wait long before the next species turned up. The call of the Common Crane is one thing I look forward to hearing every spring and I was well rewarded when three birds flew over. During the following days migrants continued to arrive. Whinchats could be heard calling at several localities around Voss while I found my years first Pied Flycatcher. A trip to another local marsh on Wednesday produced a Whimbrel, not a common species here at Voss, but one that is recorded most years. I have also spent some time on the Hardangervidda. Birds of Prey seemed to be in good numbers for once with several Rough-legged Buzzards and Common Kestrels. As expected I saw both Shore Lark and Lapland Bunting but numbers seemed low. However, the best two species on the trip were undoubtedly a male Hen Harrier and a Hawk Owl (above photo). On the way home to Voss I had a quick stop at Ulvikpollen. Amongst the commoner waders that were present I found two Temminck’s Stints, a great end to the trip. On the Sunday I headed for the island of Sotra. A day on the coast would be a nice change from the mountains. The days birding nearly started badly as I nearly hit a Black Grouse that flew out in front of my car. Once settled at my watch point, I soon realised that the weather was not on my side. There was only a very weak breeze from the south west. Not the best of conditions for sea-watching. However, there was a steady trickle of Red-throated Divers, one Great Northern and a White-billed Diver that landed on the sea to rest. This gave me a good opportunity to study this fantastic species through the scope. On the way back to my car, an immature White-tailed Eagle flew low, giving great views. Unfortunately my camera was in my back-pack. Checking several localities on the island produced a scattering of Common and Lesser Whitethroats as well as the usual species. All in all, a great weeks birding.    

Last week I said that I hadn’t seen Common Redshank in Voss so far this year. Well that all changed on the 4/5 when I heard that familiar call at one of the local marshes. I also said that Northern Wheatear numbers were low compared with earlier years, but that too changed during week 19 with a good influx. Other than that week 19 was dominated by cold and rainy weather with heavy snow/sleet showers on the 6/5. Despite the poor weather, that was the day that produced the most interesting species that week with a Peregrine Falcon at Kvåle near Voss. Other than that things seem to be moving at a slow pace migration wise. I have spent most of my time checking for breeding woodpeckers. Four species so far this year, so I am happy with that. I have also spent some time taking (or trying to) take some decent photo’s, but believe me, it’s a lot harder that it seems. That being said I am happy with the above photo of the White Wagtail. By Sunday I could add another two species on to this year’s “Voss List” with both male Merlin and Greenshank.

It was great to find that all of the snow and ice had melted when I returned home to Voss. Though nearly a month’s bird watching abroad had produced a whole host of species, there is something special with early spring in Norway. Though I had no doubt missed most of the thrush movements, I was still looking forward to getting out and about around Voss. Unfortunately, I was disappointed. Things seemed very quiet, both in the woodlands and marshlands. I also spent nearly two whole days in the mountains at Vikefjell and Nesheimsfjell, hoping to catch up with some of the species I seemed to have missed. Other than the trip to Nesheimsfjell producing 3 Golden Eagle and 3 Common Kestrel, there wasn’t much to watch. One species that seems very low in numbers so far this spring is Northern Wheatear.
 

This is a species that I usually see at several localities around Voss during late spring. This year I have only seen the male in the above photo. Things are even worse for European Golden Plover and Common Redshank, not one observation here at Voss as yet. Wildfowl numbers also seem low. Common Teal are well down from the same period last year and only 3 pair of Eurasian Wigeon have been recorded. However, all has not been lost. I saw a Common Buzzard on the 29/4, my first in Voss since 2007. I can only hope that things improve during the coming weeks.    

The week started sadly. A Great-grey Shrike had flown into a window and died. None the less, it was a stunning bird, and I handed it in to the Zoological Museum in Bergen for their skin collection.
(Photo: Terje Lislevand)

 On Tuesday I had to attend a meeting and the day flew by with no time for any birding. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday proved to be disappointing. The cold weather seemed to put all bird movements on halt with no newcomers or increase in the migrants that have already arrived. It was so bad, I decided to visit the coast over the weekend and on Sunday I headed for Sotra for which, became a very interesting day. While heading out to Hellesøy at the end of the island, I noticed some Hooded Crows acting suspiciously. Thinking that they had pressed a Sparrowhawk, or even better a Goshawk into the large pine tree I stopped the car and found my bins. I am glad I did so, sat in the tree was an Eagle Owl. What a great start to the day! At Hellesøy 218 Long-tailed Duck were in the bay as well as smaller flocks of Common Eider and a few Red-breasted Merganser. A lone White-tailed Eagle sat on some rocks on the other side of the fjord. From Hellesøy I made my way to Svellingen and set up my scope. It didn’t take long before the first migrating flock of Eurasian Oystercatcher passed my watch point. Northern Gannet too seemed in good numbers, though it is hard to tell as many seem to double back. I had expected good numbers of Long-tailed Duck since there were so many at Hellesøy, but there were only two pairs. I did however pick up a single Common Scoter. As I started on my second hour with sea watching the days first Red-throated Divers passed with two birds heading north. From Svellingen I checked Sæle, here things were quiet except the Grey Heron colony.
Sture produced an adult White-tailed Eagle (above photo) as well as Crested Tit while the next stop, Tjeldstø produced a female Common Pochard, good numbers of Greylag Geese while the fields held small flocks of Fieldfare and Redwing. The next two stops produced only a handful of the commoner species, by this time it was late in the day and time to head home.  I will be leaving shortly on a birding trip and returning during April. Until then, I wish one and all some great birding and a happy Easter.

A mixed week weather wise with days of pouring rain, warm with bright sunshine, ending on Sunday with heavy snow showers. On the 16th it was raining for most of the day. Thinking that I would get some shelter in the woodlands I spent most of my time checking out two or three different areas. Other than the most common species, there was very little of interest though 3 Eurasian Treecreepers (2 males – 1 female?) seemed oblivious to the pouring rain and were displaying/fighting with each other, I was surprised at just how aggressive they were. The 17th was a great day with the highlight being a pair of Golden Eagles. On the 18th I once again visit woodland habitat, I was looking for woodpeckers and wasn’t disappointed with both Green and Great-spotted. That evening I was out and about listening for owls. I was told about calling Tengmalm’s Owl, Unfortunately I didn’t hear one, but there were a few Tawny Owls calling. Some of the early spring migrants have increased with numbers of both Common Teal and Northern Lapwing building up, while on the 20th I had this year’s first Wood Pigeon here at Voss. On the 21st I managed a short hour or so at Herdla on the island of Askøy. Here spring had come a lot further with displaying Common Shelduck, Eurasian Oystercatcher and Northern Lapwing. Velvet Scoter were still in good numbers though I only found one pair of Long-tailed Duck. Other Than the Oystercatchers and Lapwings, the only other waders I found were 2 Ringed Plover and a single European Golden Plover. Other interesting species included the long staying Great-crested Grebe and my years first Snow Bunting. I most probably could have found more than the 27 species I saw if I had more time and there weren’t so many people about.

The week started with nice weather and the arrival of this year’s first Northern Lapwing at one of the local lakes on the 9th. Two other interesting observations that day included a male Northern Goshawk being mobbed by a Hooded Crow and a single Bohemian Waxwing. On the 10th I returned to the feeder to look for the light Redpoll that I had seen last week, unfortunately the flock had dispersed and numbers had been reduced to about 20. I visited one of the local marshes on the 11th. Last year most of the snow on the ground, and the ice on the lake had melted. Wildfowl had moved in and it was a pleasant few hours birding. This year was a different kettle of fish. The lake was still frozen and the ground covered with 10cm of hard packed snow.(photo)

The only bird to be seen was a single male Goosander. The way it is looking at the moment, it will be a late spring. The weather gods turned nasty again on both the 12th and 13th with even more snow. I stuck to the local woodlands but things were quiet with only the common species like this male Common Bullfinch.

A male Common Teal had arrived on the 14th at one of the lakes, another sign that spring is on the way, while on the 15th the single Northern Lapwing on the 9th had been joined by 13 new ones.

I have used several hours this week to get a good picture of the Hawfinch that has returned to a feeder just outside Voss. Unfortunately I haven’t had much success. However there are plenty of other birds to watch, including a huge flock of Redpoll. I say huge as it has at least 160 birds, and though many may think that 160 is not a lot, it’s the most I've counted here at Voss for many years. 

One thing never ceases to amaze me when it comes to Redpoll, and that is the variation of plumages. Most seem to be Common Redpoll and so far I have found what I take to be one Lesser Redpoll amongst the flock. There is also a very light individual with a very white rump. It stands out like a sore thumb when the flock is in flight. Unfortunately I haven’t seen it perched yet so I can’t say for sure if it is an Arctic Redpoll. Otherwise, despite snow fall and cold nights, there are new signs that spring is not far away. Green Woodpecker and Nutcracker are vocally very active and at the local rubbish dump a single Common Starling can be seen feeding.

Spring has sprung. Like hell it has. There is more snow now than before I left for the UK at the begining of February. It was great being at home in the UK. Winter is a fantastic time with huge numbers of wildfowl and waders. Nothing can beat the salt marshes of Lancashire. But now it is back home in Norway, and I can only hope that spring isn’t that far away or else it will be back to England on the first flight. Today I took a quick trip down the Hardangerfjord to Norheimsund, nothing special but at Ålvik there was a flock of 216 Common Goldeneye as well as smaller numbers all along the fjord. There is nothing much to report here from Voss. The Hawfinch has returned and one or two Eurasian Jackdaw are flying in with the Hooded Crows to their night time roost. During the next few days I will be getting out and about, after all it has been nearly a month since I checked my local patches. Lets hope there is something to report.  

This weekend I visited the coast near Bergen where the first stop was Sotra. It was nice to get away from the snow and see green fields. The weather was pleasant as well, though there was a strong breeze at Hellesøy and Svellingen. So much so, it was difficult to sea-watch with tripod shake and a very choppy sea. One bird that seemed to utilize the wind was an immature White-tailed Eagle. It sailed the sky’s with the greatest of ease. A flock of 36 Great Cormorant sat huddled together on a rock, the birds on the outside, regularly getting covered by sea spray.   Small flocks of Common Eider and Long-tailed Duck bobbed on the sea. Small flocks of birds were passing by further out to sea, but tripod shake made it impossible to ID them, so maybe it was time to head for some of the more sheltered bays. At Davøy I saw both Iceland and Glaucous Gulls. It is always nice to see these species, but it is great to see them side by side. Also at Davøy an immature White-tailed Eagle flew over. The gulls seemed to take it in their stride, but 5 Grey Heron that were standing on a rock took to the wing. There were several small flocks of Common Goldeneye and Red-breasted Merganser also sheltering in the bay. Just before I left a Eurasian Sparrowhawk pressed some small passerine out of a bush. I didn’t have a chance to ID as it twisted and turned to escape the out-stretched claws of the pursuing raptor. Next stop was Tjeldstø, things seemed quiet. 4 Greylag Geese hardly lifted their head when I got out of the car to watch them. I walked along the road watching some of the commoner species like Blackbird, Great Tit and Greenfinch. On reaching the end of the road I stopped to count a flock of Fieldfare. 19 birds in all, had all these spent the winter, or could I hope that some had just flew over the North Sea from England and spring migration was starting? I also visited the neighbouring island of Askøy. Here I made my way to Herdla, one of the best localities to watch birds in the county, and I was not to be disappointed. I had no sooner set up my scope when a Great-northern Diver swam past just 30m from the shore. Further out on the fjord 1 Common Guillemot and 3 Razorbill dived none stop in their search for something to eat. Once more there were small flocks of Common Eider and Long-tailed Duck as well as good numbers of Velvet Scoters, the males splendid in their all black plumage with characteristic white wingbar and orange bill. It was late when I arrived at Herdla and the light was fading fast. On the way back to the car a flock of 20 or so Common Starling flew into their night roost. I stopped a while and listened to their chattering – a nice way to end the trip.