A Falklands Tour.
July 23rd 2006 saw me boarding a 747 on a muggy summers evening at RAF Brize Norton. Twenty hours later, I set foot down into a horizontal howling gale, with the temperature hovering just above zero. Welcome to Mount Pleasant.
Much has been written on the subject of these islands and the birds that inhabit them. After spending six months employed in Mount Pleasant, I would like to add a few notes of my own observations during an eventful six months
Firstly I was pleased with the timing of my tour. The six month period would initially see me birding away my spare time at the end of the austral winter and then progress through spring into the lengthening days of early summer.
Even as the plane taxied into the terminal area I saw the first birds of the tour. Fittingly it was the Upland Goose, Chloephaga picta leucoptera, a widespread resident of the islands, a few pairs were feeding at the runways edge and many more were in groups of up to twenty or so feeding on the short grass of the complex. Several of the similar, but smaller Ruddy Headed Goose, Chloephaga rubidiceps among them. This species has seen a severe restriction in its South American range leaving the thriving Falklands birds as an important population.
Long Tailed Meadowlark, Champina Pond, 20 Aug 2006
Silver and Speckled Teals, Champina Pond, 20 Aug 2006
After settling in, the first week enabled me to catch up with a few of the more familiar airbase species, Dark Face Ground Tyrants, Muscisaxicola maclovianus maclovianus frequented the short grass adjacent to the accommodation. Long Tailed Meadowlarks, Sturnella loyca falklandica, formed into large flocks and could easily be tempted in close with pieces of bread roll. The male is quite simply stunning. Kelp, Larus dominicanus, and Dolphin Gulls, Leucophaeus scoresbii, were always close to habitation especially when there was a chance of an easy meal from the kitchen waste bins. Turkey Vultures, Cathartes aura jota, were common around the base and each evening they came to roost on the roof of the sergeants mess. The various window sills and vents providing some degree of comfort in the lee of the often numbing wind. I had a count of 18 on one particular evening.
Dolphin Gulls, Goose Green, 10 Sep 2006
Southern Caracara, Mount Pleasant, 11 Nov 2006
Another common bird with an interesting habit; at least a couple I regularly watched was the Falklands Thrush, Turdus falcklandii falcklandii. Several times I watched a pair around the Port at Mare Harbour. The perimeter of the port is encircled by rolls of barbed wire. These are set up so that two rolls lie side by side and a third is placed on top. I quite clearly saw the Thrushes use this habitat to their advantage. Because of the wind-chill factor I often sat at the end of a walk within the comfortable surroundings of my Land Rover to enjoy a well earned coffee and nibbles. As is my want, I used to share my rations with the thrushes and they became quite accustomed to hopping over to my vehicle for their treats. As soon as a Gull appeared on the scene the Thrushes would duly retreat with their prize into the relative safety of the wire. When the Gull threat had passed the thrushes would re-appear below the vehicle door. As you can imagine the Gulls would return and the same scenario would be played out again and again. I did hear from one local birder, Fred Clark; that several different species have taken to using the wire as nesting sites. Including the impressive Red Backed Hawk, Buteo Polyosoma. All benefiting from the obvious protection it offers, not unlike the Dunnock in your garden nesting in the Blackthorn.
Red Backed Hawk, Mount Pleasant, 20 Aug 2006
The first few months passed quickly and I was soon joined on tour by CPO Mark 'Slasher' Cutts, another keen member of the society and long-time friend. Needless to say we intended to make the most of the four months we had together and we started of with a cracker by getting ourselves on the weekend helicopter trip to Sea Lion Island.
The island is a thirty minute hop by helicopter and one of its main benefits is the fact that it is entirely cat, rat and mouse free. The effect on the local birdlife is immense. Within seconds of the leaving the aircraft you are surrounded by Thrushes, Finches and the ever present Tussac-Bird, Cinclodes antarcticus antarcticus. This is the Falklands race of Blackish Cinclodes a much sought after South American speciality. The bird is one of the star attractions of vermin free islands. They are a constant presence until you re-board the helicopter for the mainland. The tide line is full of them and they have taken to the habit of feeding in the company of a far larger species, the Southern Elephant Seals that fill the beaches each spring. Wolfing down the sand hoppers that the large seals disturb. They are also quite happy to feed off the seals themselves, an act not always appreciated by the host.
The first stop off for the both of us was a walk to the HMS Sheffield Memorial, after paying our respects; we entered into the closely massed colonies of Rockhopper Penguins, Eudyptes chrysocome chrysocome and King Shags Phalacrocorax atriceps albiventor. These two species are quite happy in each others company and often nest in close proximity. The stench is quite appalling but the spectacle of the Penguins fighting their way up the cliffs is awe inspiring. From what we observed during this and subsequent visits the Shags had a good breeding season; on the contrary the Rockies did not fare so well. The decline of this species is already the subject of several studies around the islands.
Rockhopper Penguins, Sealion Island, 21 Oct 2006
Another of the islands specialities is the Striated Caracara, Phalcoboenus australis. There are attendant pairs near most penguin colonies. They are both an effective predator and scavenger. When we took a break halfway through the day we were joined by up to 15 immature Caracaras who were quite keen to share our lunch. All items have to watched closely as the Johnny Rooks as they are locally known, have been known to fly off into the distance with a camera in their talons.
Striated Caracaras with yours truly, Sealion Is, 21 Oct 2006
I would say the one true speciality to stand, if not quite literally, head and shoulders above the rest is the Cobbs Wren, Troglodytes cobbi. This diminutive little bird is one of the two full species Falklands endemics. Its preferred habitat is boulder beaches backed by Tussac grass. The bird can be locally common in this habitat if the island is vermin free. Sure enough within a few minutes of sitting down on the beach we were joined by a confiding bird. It takes the niche of a mouse and rarely flies, preferring to hop and squeeze itself among the large over lapping beach boulders. If you sit still they will literally hop underneath you in their quest for invertebrates.
Cobbs Wren, Sealion Is, 28 Nov 2006
The second endemic is the Falklands Flightless Steamer Duck, Tachyeres brachypterus. This is a far easier species to connect with compared to the Wren and the sandy beaches we visited around Sea Lion were home to approximately a hundred birds. Most in the surf feeding on the local crayfish and mussels.
We were now into early spring and the full breeding season would soon be upon us. After consultation with Robin Woods of Falklands Conservation, who helped and assisted us during several activities. We were keen to play an active part in the ongoing Breeding Bird Survey. We were allocated the task of monitoring the six ten kilometre grid squares in the vicinity of Mount Pleasant
We attempted to work as much of the area as practical. It was soon evident from our previous ramblings that the bodies of water within our squares fell into two simple categories. Either they had plenty of birdlife on or around them or not. This appeared to be down to the presence of the native water milfoil. Myriophllum elatinoides, as it is correctly known is a good oxygenating plant and is beneficial to all manner of water borne life forms. Three ponds in our Squares had this plant in abundance. Sand and Champina pond were both situated within the Mount Pleasant complex and as such received many visits. The main species on these ponds were, as you'd expect Wildfowl and Grebes. The grebes are represented by two species, White Tufted, Rollandia rolland rolland and Silvery, Podiceps occipitalis. The former occupied most bodies of water in small numbers. The Silvery only seemed content within the Myriophllum ponds. However when it occurred it did so in good numbers and we had sightings of twenty or so birds on each of these ponds. Although not always easy to observe we counted at least eleven young Silvery Grebes on Sand Pond over the Christmas period. Another pond that ticked the right boxes was to the rear of Berthas Beach. This was the largest Myriophllum pond in our survey area. Always productive, this body of water had a good range of species. The Black Necked Swan, Cygnus melancoryphus, was usually the first to stand out. Numbers varied each visit but we could generally rely upon seeing in the region of twenty birds. They are quite a timid bird and would often retreat to the middle of the pond when we approached. We did have breeding success on this pond with the Swans, Silver Teal, Anas versicolor fretensis, Speckled Teal, Anas flavirostris and Yellow Billed Pintail, Anas georgica spinicauda, all producing young. The South American race of Peregrine Falcon, Falco peregrinus cassini could also occasionally be seen patrolling the beach area.
Silvery Grebes, Berthas Beach Pond, 22 Aug 2006
White Tufted Grebe, York Bay Pond, 3 Dec 2006
Further down Berthas Beach is a small colony of Gentoo Penguins, Pygoscelis papua papua. These are probably the most watched penguins on East Falkland. Steady trickles of service personnel make the four mile round trip from Mare Harbour. We were no different and this colony received regular visits. It was nice to observe the full breeding cycle from Mating and egg laying to the young fledging and leaving the colony in late January. From what we observed at this and other colonies, the Gentoo's have had a very successful breeding season. At all colonies we visited in early summer the young birds had attained a good size and voraciously devoured all offerings from parents. A lot of waste food was spilt at the edge of colonies and this was greedily taken by Gulls and Falklands Skuas, Catharacta antarctica. The Skuas also take a proportion of young penguins; one such event was witnessed by Commander Chris Moorey and his family. A well grown youngster was taken and literally ripped apart by a couple of Skuas when it strayed a little too far from the safety of the colony.
Gentoo Penguins, Berthas Beach, 23 Nov 2006
However, the Skuas did not always have it their own way. As I was watching another colony, one Gentoo adult grabbed a hovering Skua by the leg, as it eyed up a potential meal. It then maintained its grip as many other Gentoo adults launched a flurry of sharp beaks in the predators direction The Skua did eventually free itself but did leave the colony pretty sharpish.
Bertha's Beach was a well walked route and other good birds seen regularly in this location included South American Tern, Sterna hirundinacea which bred in small numbers in the area and Pale-faced Sheathbill, Chiois albus. The Sheathbill is predominately a winter visitor but a few non-breeders also spend the austral summer scavenging around the shoreline.
The three commoner breeding waders all enjoyed successful seasons. The Magellanic Snipe, Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica, though not the easiest wader to observe was seen with young in many locations. The Rufous Chested Dotterel, Charadrius modestus, was easier to see but still a little wary, but again we saw many young birds among the Diddle Dee. In contrast the Two Banded Plover, Charadrius falklandicus, is an abundant easily seen breeding resident. We encountered this small wader in most habitats especially behind the sandy beaches, and the majority seen had one, two or occasionally three juveniles in tow. Many pairs were double brooding, as we saw a definite two stage cycle of very young birds. With peaks in November and again in early January.
Two Banded Plover, Berthas Beach, 22 Oct 2006
We were very fortunate during our stay that we made contact with another local birder Alan Henry. Alan has lived in Port Stanley for the last eighteen years and we have to thank him for several highlights of our tour. He had already informed us that late October and November was a good time for rare vagrants and so an extra special effort was put in during this period.
Towards the end of October we were spending a weekend in Stanley with Robin Woods. In particular we were working an area of wetland near the airport. It had proved fruitful on several previous visits and today was no different. We were more than happy when an unidentified wader was heard calling in the area. We saw the dotterel sized bird land nearby and now joined by Alan; the bird was identified as a Pectoral Sandpiper, Calidris melanotos. This species occurs annually in ones and two's but this year was a good year and in the region of ten were seen over the season. The following weekend saw us near Port Louis at the west end of Berkley Sound. We had been tipped of by Alan that a Great Grebe, Podiceps major, had been seen the previous day. We arrived just before midday and had the Grebe showing well in our scopes within five minutes. Although at distance, the Great Grebe is an impressive looking bird. The same weekend we enjoyed good views of Barn Swallow, Hirundo rustica and the local race of Barn Owl, Tyto alba tuidara. The latter is a bird on the increase and due to its diet of small rodents; is usually present in and around settlement areas.
Southern Giant Petrel, Abattoir Outlet, 21 Jan 2007
One blustery Sunday morning in November saw me and my family; they had flown down for a two week holiday! Mark, Alan and his family, doing a spot of off roading on a drive into the Fitzroy farm estate. After an hour or two of enjoyable driving, at least for me, we arrived at Whale point. We were after two particular species this day and I'm glad to say we connected with both. The first was Coscoroba Swan, Coscoroba coscoroba, we saw eight adults on the pond behind the point. One pair had four cygnets in their wake; this was only the second breeding record for the islands so we were rather pleased with the sighting. Hudsonian Godwit, Limosa haemastica was the other target species and seven birds showing on the rocky shoreline capped a memorable day.
Two more waders made their way onto the tour list during November. Several Bairds Sandpipers, Calidris bairdii, were found near Berthas Beach. This is another rare annual visitor which was nice to catch up with. It is similar to the White Rumped Sandpiper, Calidris fuscicollis, a summer visitor which inhabits the beaches in their thousands, having bred earlier in the year in Arctic Canada. A yearly round trip of 18,000 miles, ensures that the White Rumped is one of the true long distant migrants.
The Wader highlight of the trip was the discovery of three American Golden Plovers, Pluvialis dominica, at York Bay Pond, Port Stanley. Alan had briefly seen two unidentified waders in flight the previous week which he guessed might be this species, but they had not been seen again since. On Sunday the 12th Nov, myself and Mark spent the morning working the local hot spots around the capital. We arrived at York Bay Pond and set of on the normal circuitous route. Within a few minutes I had an American Golden Plover in my optics. I called Mark over and he confirmed the bird we then found another two birds. Previous records for the islands are in single figures, so we were pretty pleased with ourselves at re-discovering them.
American Golden Plover, York Bay Pond, 12 Nov 2006
In early December we managed yet again with Alan's help, to get ourselves on the customs boat that works out of Stanley. The vessel was due to visit two Russian freighters anchored in Berkley Sound. The journey out to the sound takes the boat past Kidney Island, the nest sight of up to 20,000 Sooty Shearwaters, Puffinus griseus. It was early evening and as we passed Kidney and we sailed through rafts of Shearwaters waiting to make their way ashore once darkness fell. We counted in the region of 4000 Sooty's over the next hour. An added bonus was the addition of a couple of Great Shearwaters, Puffinus gravis, which breed on the island in far smaller numbers. To complete a memorable evening, the only Macaroni Penguins, Eudyptes chrysolophus of the tour were also seen during the same trip. One pair nesting among the multitudes of Rockhoppers, the thick golden eye tufts glistening in the low evening sun.
Sooty Shearwaters with the odd Great, Berkley Sound, 3 Dec 2006
Short Eared Owl, Middle Island, 16 Dec 2006
The festive season soon came round; Christmas and Boxing Day were spent at our usual Bed and Breakfast in Stanley. After a Christmas lunch, consisting of a 24 hour ration pack, not all of it I hasten to add. We found ourselves on the end of Pembroke point for a few hours sea watching. We had already had some good birds from this location such as White Chinned Petrel, Procellaria aequinoctialis, Southern Fulmar, Fulmaris glacialoides and numerous Southern Giant Petrels, Macronectes giganteus. Today being Christmas Day we thought we deserved a present for our efforts. One soon flew by in the form of a Wandering Albatross, Diomedea exulans. I have to admit at this point; in true naval style I was having a siesta in the warm afternoon sun. I was knocked by Mark who informed of the wanderer. I was soon on it and we both marvelled as it cruised into view with the ever present Black Browed Albatrosses, Thalassarche melanophrys in attendance. The latter is a large bird in its own right, but it was dwarfed by the Wanderer, which eventually dipped over the waves not to re-appear. It was a cracking highlight towards the end of my time to all but wrap things up.
Steve Copsey
Acknowledgements
As a footnote I would like to thank Fred Clark, Alan Henry and Robin Woods for their help during the tour, and in particular for sharing the wealth of knowledge they all have regarding the Flora and Fauna of the Falkland Islands.
References
Birds and Mammals of the Falkland Islands, Robin and Anne Woods.
Atlas of Breeding Birds of the Falkland Islands, Robin and Anne Woods.
Seabirds an identification guide, Peter Harrison.
Shorebirds an identification guide to the waders of the world, Peter Hayman, John Marchant and Tony Prater
