June 13, 2005
Kuusamo Rocks!!
Wow!! It was a whirlwind tour, but definitely a highlight thus far in my Finland experience.
I really could have used another full day in the area, but I am happy to say I left Kuusamo with most of my target species squared away -- missing only Capercaille and Rustic Bunting. (Unfortunately, I didn't see any raptors during the two days, and will have to wait for fall migration to see many of them.) With the aid of continual daylight and hardly any sleep, I managed to squeeze in 30 hours of birding in less than two days!! (I was fortunate enough to have a local guide for about 1/3 of that time, who also provided me with directions to some of the hot species)
My first stop early Saturday morning was Valtavaara and Konttainen -- the legendary breeding places of Red-Flanked Bluetail (Sinipyrstö). Using some general direction, I climbed the heavily wooded fell and eventually heard the sweet song I was hoping for ... True to its reputation, the bird was quite shy and gave only brief but beautiful views for about 15 minutes ... BUT then it settled down and I had an amazing 30 minutes of perfect looks as it sang from high up in the treetops!! I could not have asked for a better start to my adventure.
Also on Valtavaara I was able to find Greenish Warbler (Idänuunilintu) - another eastern specialty that likes the old-growth forests of the Kuusamo region. On my way back down, I saw both Red (Pikkukäpylintu) and Parrot Crossbill (Isokäpylintu), along with Redpoll (Urpiainen) and Siskins (Vihervarpunen). While taking a short lunch break in the parking lot after my hike, a Siberian Jay (Kuukkeli) stopped in to check things out ... but quickly disappeared back into the woods. A Great Spotted Woodpecker (Käpytikka) was tending a territory in the same area.
I spent much of the rest of Saturday looking for Grey Wagtail (Virtavästäräkki), but despite checking the best river and a roadside stream where one had been spotted earlier, I came up empty. Fortunately, patience paid off and on my third attempt the next day I heard the "ringing" call. Eventually, the bird flew out of its hiding spot and began to display ... an amazing sight. But it was a VERY shy bird and traffic was quite heavy. I got nice but brief looks, and twice when I had it lined up for excellent photos, it was flushed by a passing car. Ah well ... fantastic nonetheless!!
At another stop, I was chasitised by a Siberian Tit (Lapintiainen) as I was too close to its nest site. Earlier in the morning, I enjoyed the rare sight of a Tengmalm's Owl (aka "Boreal Owl", Helmipöllö) hunting for small rodents on a roadside meadow ... followed later by looks at its larger cousins - Short-eared (suopöllö) and Great Grey Owl (Lapinpöllö). Woodcocks (Lehtokurppa) and Green Sandpipers (Metsäviklo) were often seen doing their aerial displays. A lone female Black Grouse (Metso) was the only grouse species seen -- the warm weather and end of lekking season has made them quite elusive. A young White-throated Dipper (Koskikara) learning to fish on the rocks of a fast-flowing river was real treat.
Several Little Buntings (Pikkusirkku) were singing in the lakeside willows of Tornkijarvi, not far from the town centre. Another was found just north of the town, where I tracked down the first Arctic Warbler (Lapinuunilintu) report of the season --- a new arrival that was, luckily for me, found just a few hours before I was due to leave!!
Red-flanked Bluetail (Sinipyrstö) ... What a looker!! (Click to enlarge)
What can I say ... Wow!! (Click to enlarge)
The view from Valtavaara ... not far from where I found the little guy above. (Click to enlarge)
A distant pic of a true hunter of the north --- Great Gray Owl (Lapinpöllö). (Click to enlarge)
This Little Bunting (Pikkusirkku) was quite active ... his song ringing out over the wind which had just picked up. (Click to enlarge)
There were lot of reindeer in the Kuusamo region -- including this very photogenic calf tagging along behind the others. (Click to enlarge)