ECUADOR,
October 2000.
1. Introduction
From 13-10-2000 till 29-10-2000 I made a birding trip to Ecuador. As this was my third time to visit Ecuador, my aim this time was to visit those areas I had not yet visited and to see as many new species as possible.
Therefore I went to two main parts of the country. First I spend a week in the north-west around Tandayapa, Mindo and Pedro Vicente Maldonado. After that I spend a week in the Amazonian Lowlands at Yuturi Lodge.
2. Planning the trip.
I organized the trip myself, mainly using e-mail. Because I had visited Ecuador already two times I new quite good which sites I wanted to visit. From Holland I had arranged almost all of the transport, accommodation and the guide.
Guides:
In Tandayapa my guide was Tony Nunnery ($100 per day). Tony is from the USA, but now lives in Tandayapa valley with Barbara in a beautiful house. His "garden" is primary forest with good trails. You can easily spend two days on his property. Tony has a lot of hummingbird feeders around his house as well as in the forest. These attract many species of Hummingbirds. We saw 19 different species at the feeders! That is much more than you would see at Bellavista Lodge (or elsewhere in the world?). The author of 'The Hummingbirds' once visited Tony and concluded there is no other place like this.
Tony knows the birds and the vocalizations very well. We found most of the specialties including some very rare ones. Contact him if you want to see a lot of birds!!
At Yuturi Lodge my guide was Teofilo Grefa. He lives in the lowlands for all his life and knows a lot of sounds. This is very helpful, because he had to tell me quite a few times that the sound we heard was a frog instead of a bird. He knows a lot of bird sounds, but doesn't know the English names. He can show them in the book.
Accommodation:
I stayed two nights at Bellavista Lodge and after that was invited by Tony to stay at his house (a better offer you just can't get!). Lower down is the new Tandayapa Bird Lodge. This is a better place to stay than at Bellavista Lodge. Bellavista Lodge is quite basic (although the food is good) and is at a higher elevation, and because of that is in the clouds part of the day. It is not necessary to stay at Mindo while birding that area. You can reach Mindo in about 45 minutes and Pedro Vicente Maldonado in 1 hour and 45 minutes. At Tandayapa it's cooler and there is better accommodation.
In the Oriente I stayed at Yuturi Lodge. This is a cheaper option than the better known La Selva Lodge. Yuturi Lodge is in a very good area. It has good Terra Firme forest and also good Varzea forest. If you tell them you are a birder, they will arrange a special program for you with a knowledgeable guide. I had Teofilo as a personal guide.
Transport:
Richard Parsons arranged my transfer from Quito airport to Tandayapa. If you make use of Tony as a guide , Tony can arrange the taxi for you as well (cheaper!).
For two days I hired a taxi to visit Mindo and Pedro Vicente Maldonado. The taxi driver is a friend of Tony and knows what birders are like.... I paid him $60 for a full day and $20 for the trip from Tandayapa to Quito.
3. Information.
If you want more information about this trip or if you have comments, mail me at dplanting@planet.nl.
Itinerary:
Following is an itinerary of the trip I made. I have only written down the species I personally want to remember and the lifers (the ones with an *). For a complete list see the bird list at the end of this report.
13-10-2000
Late night flight from Amsterdam to Quito, via Curacao and Guayaquil.
14-10-2000
Arrival in the morning. Picked up by Tony Nunnery and Nestor the taxi driver. Drive to Tandayapa via the site for the White-tailed Shrike Tyrant, which we didn't see. Birded all day at Tony's place and around Bellavista Lodge.
Birds: Sickle-winged Guan (H)*, Barred Parakeet (H)*, Red-billed Parrot, Speckle-faced Parrot, Scaly-naped Amazon, Green Violetear*, Sparkling Violetear, Western Emerald*, Andean Emerald, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Speckled Hummingbird, Violet-fronted Brilliant*, Fawn-breasted Brilliant*, Brown Inca*, Collared Inca, Buff-tailed Coronet*, Gorgeted Sunangel*, Booted Rackettail, Violet-tailed Sylph, Purple-throated Woodstar*, White-bellied Woodstar*, Toucan Barbet (H)*, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan*, Rufous Spinetail (H), Streaked Tuftedcheeck (H), Rusty-winged Barbtail*, Striped Treehunter*, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta (H), Spillman's Tapaculo (H)*, White-tailed Tyrannulet*, Streak-necked Flycatcher*, Western Wood-Pewee, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Turquiose Jay (H), Slaty Nightingale Thrush, Glossy-black Thrush, Plain-tailed Wren, Grey-breasted Wood-Wren, Three-striped Warbler, Russet-crowned Warbler, White-sided Flowerpiercer, Beryl-spangled Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Grass-green Tanager, Blue-capped tanager, Dusky Bush-Tanager*, Russet-backed Oropendola (H). Not bad for the first day!!!!
15-10-2000
Before dawn walked from Bellavista Lodge to Tony's house. Heard Grey Potoo. This morning walked the trails on Tony's property. Here we had Dark-breasted Woodquail (H)*, Tawny-bellied Hermit*, Andean Solitaire, Toucan Barbet came in to the tape, Sickle-winged Guan seen, Green-fronted Lancebill*, Masked Trogon*. Best was the Moustached Antpitta* we heard. At the house were Green-tailed Trainbearers, Yellow-breasted Antpitta (H)*, Golden Tanager and White-winged Brush Finch.
In the afternoon walked down to Tandayapa. Saw Narino and Spillmans Tapaculo, Andean Cock of the Rock*, Black-capped Tanager* and Yellow-faced Grassquit*. Heard Band-winged Nightjar at Bellavista.
16-10-2000.
Today pre-dawn departure to Mindo with Victor the taxi driver. First birded the dirt-road to a new hotel (the first track on the right at the entrance-road going down to Mindo). Here Rufous-breasted Antthrush(H)*, Club-winged Manakin, Golden-headed Quetzal, Lesser Eleania*, Buff-fronted Foliagegleaner*, Red-faced Spinetail*, Long-tailed Antbird*, Choco Toucan (H)*, Glistening-green Tanager*, Andean Cock of the Rock (H) and a large group of Yellow-collared Chlorophonias*. Then walked down the road to Mindo (Orange-crowned Euphonia*, White-throated Crake*, Southern Nightingale Wren). In the afternoon paid a visit to Mindo Lindo. On the trail we saw Chestnut-capped Brush Finch*, Metallic-green Tanager* and a displaying Club-winged Manakin. About 30 Barred Parakeets flew over.
17-10-2000.
Again early departure, but now to Pedro Vicente Maldonado (PVM). Heard Mottled Owl* and Barred Forest Falcon* from Tony's porch. The forest patch where everybody saw the Dacnis and the other goodies is no longer there! Tony was here two weeks earlier and at that time it was still there, but now there was nothing left. We still managed to see some good birds: Rufous Motmot (H)*, Blue-headed Parrot*, Purple-crowned Fairy, Band-backed Wren, Buff-rumped Warbler*, White-tailed Sicklebill, Western Slaty Antshrike*, Bright-rumped Attila*, Pacific Streaked Antwren*, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher*, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher*, Choco Toucan (H), White-thighed Swallow*, Violet-bellied Hummingbird*, Blue-chested Hummingbird*, Dusky Antbird*, Tawny-crowned Tanager*, Marble-faced Tyrannulet*, Dusky-faced Tanager*, White-shouldered Tanager*, Red-rumped Woodpecker*, Little Tinamou (H)*, Dot-winged Antwren*, White-bearded Manakin*, Western White-tailed Trogon*, Slaty-capped Shrike Vireo(H)*. In the afternoon went to the Bancos-road with Moss-backed Tanager*, Choco Toucan seen, Purple-throated Fruitcrow (H)*.
18-10-2000.
Birded around the house and at Tony's trails. What a place! Cloud-forest Pygmy-Owl (H)*, Giant Antpitta (H)*, Golden-naped Tanager*, Beautiful Jay (H)*, Toucan Barbet (H), Spotted Barbtail*, White-rumped Hawk*, White-tipped Swift*, Golden-rumped Euphonia* and more. Spend the afternoon on a beautiful trail with Empress Brilliant*, Purple-bibbed Whitetip*, Powerfull Woodpecker, Hoary Puffleg*, Andean Cock of the Rock (H) and Tyrannine Woodcreeper (H)*.
19-10-2000.
Dawn chorus at Tony's porch - hearing the following species: Giant Antpitta, Grey Potoo, Cloud-Forest Pygmy-Owl, Toucan Barbet, Golden-headed Quetzal, Wattled Guan, Andean Cock of the Rock, Plate-billed Mountain Toucan, Chestnut-crowned Antpitta, Glossy-black Thrush and Strong-billed Woodcreeper*.
Last morning in the Tandayapa Valley. New species were still coming. Saw Western Hemispingus*, Streak-capped Treehunter* and Spot-fronted Swift* which seems to be regular in the Tandayapa Valley.
After lunch to Quito with Victor. A short stop at the White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant spot only produced Black-tailed Trainbearer and Tufted Tit-Tyrant.
At this point I had seen 240 species on the trip of which 87 were lifers.
20-10-2000
This morning to the airport for the flight to Coca. There was a small problem because my suitcase was a bit too heavy. The maximum weight allowed is 10 kilo. My suitcase was 22 kilo! I was glad they didn't notice my daypack with telescope, books, bins etc. I only had to pay $ 6. After a nice flight with views at Cayambe we went to hotel Oasis where we boarded the boat to the lodge (about 4 hours). At the Napo-river Cocoi Heron, Black Caracara, Yellow-headed Caracara, Yellow-billed Tern*, Black Skimmer*, Brown Chested Martin*, White-banded Swallow, Orange-winged Amazon* and more commoner species. This evening met Teofilo and planned the various excursions.
21-10-2000
Woke up with the sounds of Pauraque and Grey Potoo. From 6 till 10 at the 28 meter high tower. Here we had Cinereous Tinamou (H)*, Black-headed Parrot*, Crested Eagle*, White-necked Puffbird*, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Flame-crested Tanager*, Greyish Mourner*, Plum-throated Cotinga*, Bare-necked Fruitcrow*,Black-faced Antthrush (H)*, Thrush-like Wren (H)*, Scarlet Macaw*, Chestnut-fronted Macaw*, Blue-and-Yellow Macaw, Blue-headed Parrot, Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Gildet Barbet , Yellow-tufted Woodpecker* etc. After that walked a trail to the Rio Napo. Best were the Long-tailed Potoo* at its day-roost, Great Tinamou (H)*, Undulated Antshrike (H)*, Fasciated Antshrike (H)*, Blue-crowned Motmot (H)*, Straight-billed Woodcreeper* and Crimson-crested Woodpecker*. In the afternoon at the water with a canoe with a Grey Potoo at its day-roost, Band-tailed*-, Crested-, Green*- and Russet-backed Oropendola, Long-billed Woodcreeper*, Yellow-headed Caracara, Pauraque (seen), Mouse-coloured Antshrike (H)*, Cinnamon Attila (H)*. At dark heard Tawny-bellied Screech Owl*.
22-10-2000
At 05.30 to Sendero Limon. From the canoe we heard Amazonian Antshrike (H)*, saw a Sungrebe* and Chestnut Woodpecker*. At the trail we saw and heard many species. Sometimes you don't see a single bird for half an hour or so. Then you suddenly hear birdsounds again. If you want to see birds in the rainforest you have to listen all day! Good birds were among others: Coraya Wren responding very well to the tape, White-shouldered Antshrike*, Ringed Antpipit*, Screaming Piha (H)*, Long-winged Antwren*, Plain-winged Antshrike*, Pygmy Antwren*, Gray Antwren*, Wire-tailed Manakin*, Marbled Woodquail (H)*, Scale-backed Antbird (H)*, Solitary Cacique (H)*. Back at the lodge we heard Ferruginous Pygmy Owl.
23-10-2000
Today we had a very good birding day! We left at 4.00 hour in the morning for nightbirds. We heard Tropical Screech Owl (H)*, Crested Owl (H)*, Grey Potoo (H), Pauraque (H), Grey-necked Woodrail (H)*. Walked for 11 hours (!) the Sendero Manduro. This is mainly Terra Firme, but also has some swampy parts (Varzea). We saw many good birds including some we only had heard so far. We also encountered an Army-ant Swarm with 3 professional followers (White-plumed*-, White-faced*- and Sooty Antbird*) Best were: Dwarf Tyrant Manakin*, Golden-collared Toucanet*, Spot-winged Antshrike (H)*, Swainson's Thrush*, White-flanked Antwren*, Plain-crowned Spinetail*, Cinnamon-rumped Foliage-gleaner*, Grey Antbird*, Rusty-belted Tapaculo (H)*, Grey-winged Trumpeter* (a group responding very well to the tape), Black-necked Red Cotinga (H)* and Blue-throated Trogon*. From the canoe we saw Red-necked Woodpecker*, Agami Heron*, Boat-billed Heron*, White-eyed Parakeet*, Sandcoloured Nighthawk* and Nacunda Nighthawk*.
24-10-2000
Pre-dawn departure by motored canoe to the Rio Napo to visit a river island. Here it is much hotter then in the forest. We saw Amazonian Umbrellabird*, Oriole Blackbird*, Parker's Spinetail*, Barred Antshrike*, Castlenau's Antshrike*, Crested Eagle sitting in a tree while we were eating our lunch, Olive-spotted Hummingbird*, Grey Saltator*, Fuscous Flycatcher*, Red-stained Woodpecker*, Lesser Hornero*. Drab Water Tyrant* was at the dead trees in the Rio Napo. On our way back to Yuturi Lodge we saw a Great Potoo* at its day roost and a Rufous-breasted Hermit* near the lodge.
25-10-2000
Today to Sendero Huarmi Yuturi (this means "the female of the Conga Ant" which is a 5 cm large ant. Its bite hurts for about 24 hours. That's why it's also called the 24-hour-ant). Walked again for about 11 hours on the trail. Saw many species, but only 8 lifers: Black-faced Antbird*, Bronzy Jacamar*, Green Manakin*, Amazonian White-tailed Trogon*, Black Antbird*, Plain-throated Antwren*, Pink-throated Becard*, Cinereous Antshrike*.
26-10-2000
Again to Sendero Manduro. Heared Spectacled Owl. At arrival it started to rain. Went back to the lodge because we couldn't see or hear anything! At 10.00 walked to the tower: Silvered Antbird* at the Varzea patch and Lawrence's Thrush (H)* and White-browed Antbird* in the forest. Point-tailed Palmcreeper (H)* at the tower. There is also a observation-tower above the restaurant. Here I saw Pale-throated Barbthroat* and Sulphury Flycatcher*. In the afternoon made a boattrip at Laguna Yuturi where we saw Green-and Rufous*-, Pygmy-, Amazon- and Green Kingfisher.
27-10-2000
Early morning departure to Coca. On the Rio Napo saw Large-billed Tern*, Yellow-billed Tern and Black Skimmer. At the Salt Lick near La Selva Lodge we saw Yellow-crowned Amazon*, Dusky-headed Parakeet*, Blue-headed Parrot, Mealy Parrot an Orange-winged Parrot.
At Coca took the plane to Quito.
28-10-2000
Flight to Amsterdam via Curacao.
29-10-2000
Early morning arrival at Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam.
click here for Daan's trip list