The way all birding will be

East and North West Argentina
September - October 2003

Black-and-Rufous Warbling Finch	Freckle-breasted Thornbird

by Mark Harper

September 19th

Arrived in Buenos Aires at 8.30am having flown from Birmingham via Paris with Air France. We were met in the arrivals hall by Diego and Mario, of Clarke Expeditions, who were both to guide us for the first few days, before flying to the North West with just Mario.

We headed out of the airport to the Lancaster Hotel in the city centre to drop off our luggage making a short stop by the roadside to watch a flock of Bare-faced Ibis that our guides had seen on their way to the airport, and apart from one at Costanero Sur these were to be the only ones we saw the whole trip.

The rest of the day was to be spent in the Costanero Sur reserve on the edge of the city. On our way there it started to rain so on arrival we sat in the vehicle and had an early lunch whilst watching Great, White-tufted and Pied-billed Grebes, Black-necked and Coscoroba Swans, Red-fronted, Red-gartered and White-winged Coots and an assortment of ducks.

The rain soon eased off and we ventured out walking along the entrance road to the reserve, with stops every few feet for birds such as Spot-flanked Gallinule, Black-hooded Parrots, Monk Parakeets, Guira Cuckoos, Chalk-browed Mockingbirds and an extremely confiding Golden-breasted Woodpecker.

Golden-breasted Woodpecker

On arrival at the reserve entrance we were informed that it was closed due to a fire that they had had the previous day, Diego then sweet-talked the warden into allowing us in and as a result we had the whole reserve to ourselves for the afternoon.

The reserve contains many large areas of water with good tracks from which to view them. Walking around these tracks the number of species of duck seen expanded as we familiarised ourselves with, Red Shovelers, Rosy-billed Pochards, Lake Ducks and many more. The two main target ducks at the reserve are the localised Black-headed Duck, of which we saw several, and the secretive Masked Duck, of which we saw only two in a pond covered in weed.

In addition to the waterbirds, we found many passerines including Sooty-fronted and Sulphur-bearded Spinetail, the very attractive Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant, Vermillion Flycatcher, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Field Flicker, Great Pampa Finch, Long-tailed Reed-Finch, Masked Yellowthroat and White-banded Mockingbird.

A very enjoyable first day had notched up 86 species, and we celebrated that evening with the first of many excellent Argentinean steaks.

September 20th

Day 2 and we were heading South along the coast to San Clemente, a journey of around 300km with plenty of birding opportunities along the way.

We were soon out of the city and seeing the first of many Limpkins and Snail Kites by roadside pools. The site of two Giant Wood Rails walking across a field triggered our first stop. We obtained excellent views of these and also Chotoy Spinetail that had only been glimpsed in flight the previous day.

Chotoy Spinetail

Several more roadside stops were made before reaching Punta Lara reserve where we were to spend several hours exploring the boardwalk. Rufous-sided Crakes responded very well to the tape, but the views obtained were very brief, despite the birds coming very close. We were however able to get good views of Gilded Sapphires, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Chicli Spinetail, Epaulet Oriole and after some perseverance Rufous-browed Peppershrike.

We had just finished eating a light snack and were preparing to leave when the warden came to tell us he had just seen a pair of Diademed Tanagers not far down the trail. (This bird is at the southern extent of its range here) We headed off after him and obtained great views of this large tanager.

Back on the road and heading further South we started seeing lots of Magurai Storks, Southern Screamers, Long-winged Harriers, Chimango Caracaras and Burrowing Owls. As most of the new birds were lifers many stops were made and as well as these we added Greater Rheas, Chiloe Wigeons, Aplomado Falcons and Scarlet-headed Blackbirds.

It was just after one of these stops that the minibus' engine started to overheat and no matter how much water was put in, it could only manage a couple of hundred metres before the temperature gauge was in the red again. It soon became obvious we were not going to be able to continue with this vehicle and so Mario and Diego walked to a nearby farmhouse and obtained the number of a local taxi company that sent out two taxis for us. It was 8pm when they arrived and ominously the first thing one of the drivers did was to go under the bonnet of his car, but eventually we were on the way again for the last 100km to San Clemente. Arriving at the Hotel Morales at 9.15pm we dropped our luggage off and went straight to a local restaurant.

September 21st

We awoke to find the hotels room had an ocean view, although it was one block from the seafront, and Black-browed Albatrosses, Southern Giant Petrels and White-chinned Petrels were streaming past.

At breakfast we found a new driver with minibus had driven from Buenos Aires during the night and was ready to go. The weather was ideal for birding, temperatures around 150C, fairly overcast, but dry.

Driving to Punta Rasa, our first stop gave excellent views of Plumbeous Rail and the next yielded several pipits, from which we eventually sorted out Correndera and Hellmayr's, whilst Yellowish was only heard. Much easier were the Hudsonian Godwits, Gull-billed Terns and Bar-winged Cinclodes.

The beach itself was covered with gulls, terns and shorebirds. Whilst sorting through the Kelp Gulls, to pick out Band-tailed Gulls of the race sometimes split as Olrog's Gull, three Snowy Sheathbills were spotted some distance away. These allowed a close approach and many photographs were taken of this winter visitor from Patagonia. In complete contrast, on the nearby river estuary several Chilean Flamingos could be seen feeding.

When making a short trip to obtain better views of the flamingos the minibus stopped right alongside a Spotted Nothura and as we disembarked another flew up right from our feet. There were many hundreds of Chilean Flamingos and as we ate lunch in a restaurant overlooking the river they would occasionally all take flight.

After lunch a visit to a stand of nearby pine trees was rewarded with several White-throated Hummingbirds, but little else. Heading inland a brief roadside stop was made to watch a Firewood-Gatherer on top of its large nest of sticks built atop a telegraph pole. The rest of the afternoon was spent in the Campos Turu area where we added Bay-capped Wren-Spinetail, Blue-and-yellow Tanager and Red-crested Cardinal

September 22nd

We were up at first light for some seawatching to find that in contrast to the previous day the sea was very quiet despite a strong on-shore wind. The same species could be seen but in much lower numbers and generally much further out. A close-in Brown Skua was a good addition to the list. A trip down to the nearby pier did not add anything new, but several Southern Giant Petrels passed very close.

Driving back to Buenos Aires we stopped at Canal 2, where we had excellent views of Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant but no Stripe-backed Bittern. Another stop for South American Painted Snipe was also unsuccessful, but did provide a Cinereous Harrier and a Tufted Tit-Spinetail in the same tree as a Red-crested Cardinal. It was certainly helpful that being spring the deciduous trees were without leaves.

In the afternoon a return visit was made to Punta Lara reserve. No sooner had we stepped onto the boardwalk than we were rewarded with a sighting of a Red-rumped Warbling Finch, a lifer for us and both guides. Several Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulets were seen as was the Diademed Tanager again, but the Rufous-sided Crakes were just as elusive.

The rest of the drive back to Buenos Aires added nothing new and back at the hotel we said our goodbyes to Diego who would not be joining us for the North West section of our trip.

Alder Parrot

September 23rd

An early start today as we had a 6.30am flight to Tucuman in the North West of Argentina.

Arriving in Tucuman, Mario left to fetch the vehicle he had driven down to the city several days earlier whilst we watched Fork-tailed Flycatcher and Brown-chested Martin by the terminal building.

The route from the airport took us 60km south on a main highway before turning west into the foothills of the Andes. The first stops found us watching White Monjita, Red-tailed Comet, and Golden-billed Saltators all of which would be seen regularly over the following 11 days.

Our main target whilst driving beside the Rio Los Sosa was the Rufous-throated Dipper and although we saw lots of Torrent Ducks, which are normally outnumbered by the Dippers, it was not until mid-afternoon that Mario heard a Dipper calling and we were eventually able to track a pair down. With this in the bag we were able to push on towards Tafi del Valle stopping at Lake El Mollar where we saw Andean Goose, Andean Lapwing and Andean Gull.

Arriving at Tafi del Valle we dropped our bags at the Hotel Tafi and then headed north, out of town to a small wooded valley, a site for the endemic Tucuman Mountain Finch. No sooner had we started walking than a White-browed Tapaculo flew in and landed on some nearby rocks, giving superb views, very unlike any Tapaculo behaviour we had experienced before.

Proceeding further up the valley we found two more Tapaculos before finding a pair of Tucuman Mountain Finches. After watching these for several minutes we turned around to find a pair of Yellow-striped Brush-Finches, another endemic, foraging on the ground alongside a White-browed Tapaculo. We headed back to the hotel having seen all the target species for the site in the space of 20 minutes, saving us a return trip the following morning.

September 24th

Today was to be spent birding El Infiernillo, the mountain area to the North of Tafi. As we drove up the pass, the cloud was low and visibility was very poor. We eventually reached an altitude where there were some sizable gaps in the cloud and in one of these an Ornate Tinamou was visible stood on the edge of the road.

Andean Flicker

Eventually we rose above the cloud level and stopped to take a walk up the nearby hillside where we were soon watching Andean Flickers. An area of bare ground attracted good numbers of Sierra-Finches predominantly Ash-breasted, but with several Mourning and Band-tailed also. In amongst these were Cinnamon-bellied, Spot-billed and White-browed Ground-Tyrants.

As we proceeded further uphill an electricity cable that had become detached from the pylons was lying across our path and stopped further progress. With no volunteers to check whether it was live we headed back down stopping to watch several Cordilleran Canasteros, before reaching the bare ground we had stopped at earlier. Also present here now were Slender-billed Miners, Cinereous and Puna Ground-Tyrants.

Back in the car and travelling further up the road a quick stop was made when several Ground-Doves were disturbed. These were soon relocated and proved to be the endemic Bare-eyed Ground-Dove. At the top of the pass a stop was made to admire the view was rewarded with the sight of several Andean Condors soaring over the adjacent mountaintops.

Bare-eyed Ground Dove

Descending the other side of the mountains there was no sign of the cloud that had been impeding visibility on and off all morning. Roadside stops produced excellent views of Grey-hooded Sierra Finch and White-winged Cinclodes and whilst we ate lunch a Buff-breasted Earthcreeper and D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant put in an appearance.

Returning towards Tafi del Valle the cloud enveloped us again so we decided to pay another visit to Lake El Mollar. A stop on the way to check a site for Mountain Parakeet was unsuccessful in the mist, but we did find another Tucuman Mountain Finch, as well as Black-winged Ground-Dove and White-browed Chat-Tyrant. At the lake we found four Andean Flamingos, and after searching through the Coots we were able to find a few Andean but no Giants, which are occasionally seen here. Apart from an Andean Negrito working its way along the lakeshore nothing new was seen.

September 25th

Leaving Tafi del Valle we retraced our steps of the previous morning, but in perfect visibility a complete contrast to the previous day. Dropping down the far side of the mountains we stopped at regular intervals whenever something of interest was seen, this included Rufous-sided Warbling Finch, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant and the first of many Patagonian Mockingbirds.

Rufous-sided Warbling Finch

Large flocks of Greenish and Puna Yellow-Finches were a regular sight and whilst sorting through one of these flocks we saw our only Common Diuca-Finch of the trip, soon to be followed by our first White-fronted Woodpecker.

A stop for fuel and drinks at Amaicha produced a pair of White-tipped Plantcutters, which were to be seen several more times, always in or on the edge of towns.

On the road towards Colalao we stopped to watch two Harris's Hawks and Mario called in several Greater Wagtail-Tyrants but whilst watching these we heard a Black-legged Seriema calling in the distance. In an attempt to track it down we headed along a dirt track through the scrub but it stopped calling and did not respond to the tape so we were unable to find it. Returning to the road Mario spotted a White-throated Cachalote and whilst we were watching this a family of Sandy Gallitos ran around at the base of the same bush it was in. Despite missing the Seriema we had struck lucky with two species that Mario informed us can often take a long time to track down.

A short while later we stopped at a river crossing where a couple of weeks previously Mario had seen a Black-crowned Monjita, a lifer for him at the time, but it was nowhere to be seen now. After having had quite a successful morning we stopped at a campsite to eat our packed lunch. Burrowing Parrots were fairly common in the grounds. The big surprise, however, was when we spotted a pair of Black-crowned Monjitas hawking insects in a paddock adjacent to the campground, which also held a Long-tailed Meadowlark.

The afternoon drive from Cafayate to Moldes was very scenic, but covered similar habitat to that already visited and hence did not hold many new species. A short stop was made at Vasija Secreta Winery, to sample the local beverage and acquire some wine to take home and also, to see Grey-hooded Parakeets that were feeding on the vines.

A second break from the long drive was made at a natural amphitheatre. Just after getting out the vehicle a Chaco Earthcreeper began calling and it came straight to us in response to the tape. Other birds seen here included a Giant Hummingbird feeding nearby and a Rufous-banded Miner strutting around the parking area.

Nearing Moldes a second attempt was made to search for Black-legged Seriema, again unsucessfully, but it did produce Ultramarine Grosbeak and Red-crested Finch. Arriving at the Hotel Cabra Corral just before dark gave us a short time to bird in the grounds, where White-bellied Hummingbirds and Black-capped Warbling-Finches were common and an Epaulet Oriole gave our best view to date.

September 26th

Moldes - Los Cardones - San Lorenzo

From Moldes we headed towards Los Cardones National Park. At a reasonable area of forest and we made our first stop of the day and Mario spotted a Chaco Chachalaca. Whilst we could hear a Great Antshrike it could not be persuaded to show itself, a Rufous-capped Antshrike was much more obliging though. Also seen here were Stripe-crowned and Azara's Spinetails, White-throated and Buff-banded Tyrannulets and Golden-winged Cacique.

As we neared the park other stops were made when first a party of Plush-crested Jays were seen and then for a Hillstar, which eventually we were able to see well enough to identify as a White-sided Hillstar.

One of the main targets today was the endemic Chestnut Canastero and regular stops were made to search for them as the road climbed towards the summit. It was during one of these stops that we saw yet another Tucuman Mounatin Finch, a surprise considering it is a localised endemic and that this was the third time in four days. Whilst Creamy-breasted and Cordilleran Canasteros were seen regularly, it was not until we reached the ranger's house just past the highest point that we found a Chestnut Canastero. Mario informed us that this was a reliable site for Tawny-throated Dotterel and whilst he chatted to the ranger we found three of these impressive birds and obtained excellent views as they walked away up the hill directly opposite the ranger's house. Several Golden-spotted Ground-Doves were also seen here, close views allowed us to see the gold spots on the wings.

As we retraced our steps and began descending in altitude a flock of finches by the roadside was found to contain several Black Siskins. As often happens having seen our first Chestnut Canastero several more were seen on the descent, even at places where we had stopped to look on the way up.

Along a track from the main road a picnic lunch stop was made from where we took a short walk. Apart from adding Plumbeous Sierra-Finch this stop was particularly notable for some Inca rock paintings and the spectacular scenery.

The long drive to San Lorenzo occupied the rest of the afternoon, with the only new bird being seen, a Cream-backed Woodpecker, which flew past but did not stop.

San Lorenzo is an attractive town near to Salta and is also Mario's home town, so whilst he went home for the night we stayed in Hotel Selva Montana. The last half hour before dark was spent birding in the hotel grounds where Andean Slaty-Thrush, Saffron-billed Sparrow, Rusty Flowerpiercer and Rusty-browed Warbling-Finch were all added to the list

September 27th

Today we were to make our way from San Lorenzo to Libertador San Martin with various stops along the way. We began by birding around San Lorenzo and its back roads, finding Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner, Alder Parrot and after much searching Red-legged Seriema, which was seen a couple more times later that day when we'd stopped searching for them.

After passing through Salta we visited a private lake on a farm, where Mario has permission to survey the birds. It was covered in waterfowl including many species seen already, but also, Comb Duck, White-cheeked Pintail, Brazilian Teal, Puna Teal and Andean Ruddy Duck. There were also several Black-headed Ducks that we had previously seen only at Costanero Sur.

The rest of the morning and early afternoon was spent in the Palomitas area, Chaco Puffbirds were seen several times, but the unrelenting sun was keeping things generally quiet and an area we visited for Crested Doradito had been turned into farmland since Mario's last visit.

Eventually we headed on to Libertador San Martin making one final stop at a small woodland next to an expansive marsh. Squirrel Cuckoo, Two-banded Warbler, Crowned Slaty Flycatcher and Greater Thornbird were all additions to the list and a Parrot that flew over was possibly Turquoise-fronted, but it didn't hang around for us to clinch the ID.

At Libertador San Martin we checked into the Hotel Los Lapachos for two nights.

September 28th

The plan for today was to get into Calilegua for dawn and to bird until lunchtime and return to Libertador San Martin for a couple of hours during the heat of the day when it tends to get quiet in forests, returning mid afternoon and staying until after dark for nightbirds. Overcast conditions prevailed the next morning with thick cloud and light rain.

Driving along the dirt road into the park we flushed three Rufous Nightjars and as the road climbed up the mountain we were soon into the cloud and visibility deteriorated. The first stop produced Stripe-headed and Fulvous-headed Brush-Finches and a little further on, we could hear a White-throated Antpitta calling but much higher up the slope. Mario started whistling to it and gradually it approached to what must have been just a few metres, but we were still unable to see it. Eventually it turned and headed back up the slope. Undaunted Mario found the tape and encouraged it to return, but this time it perched in full view.

Gradually we worked our way up to the summit, with stops for Pale-legged Warbler and Moutain Wren on the way but with visibility being so poor, chances of seeing the rare Red-faced Guan were gone. The rain eased as we headed back down and with the cloud thinning enabled us to find Blue-capped Puffleg, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Highland, Slaty and White-crested Elaenias and a Glossy-black Thrush.

A brief walk along a trail revealed nothing new, but on returning to the vehicle a mixed flock was moving through and we were able to pick out Chestnut-vented Conebill, Orange-headed Tanager and Blue-hooded and Purple-throated Euphonias.

The overcast conditions meant that the temperature was low and bird activity was showing no signs of declining so a change of plan was called for. We decided to dash back to Libertador San Martin, grab some lunch and return straight back to the park. On the way back to town, a quick stop to check a bird of prey in a treetop revealed a Crane Hawk, whilst a King Vulture soared over.

Following lunch and heading back into the park, Mario spotted a Dusky-legged Guan in a roadside tree, there were several more on the ground, but they very quickly disappeared into the forest.

The main target for the afternoon was to find a Giant Antshrike, although we had heard a few in the morning they had never responded to the tape. Whilst searching for this we added Golden-olive Woodpecker and Olivaceous Woodcreeper to the list, but could not find the Antshrike. After a couple of hours one was heard very close to the road, and eventually he hopped out of the undergrowth onto a dead log and called several times before flying off into the forest. Well worth the effort as this was one of the best birds of the trip.

A flock of Dark-brown Swifts that flew over and a Least Grebe on a small pool in the forest were the only additional species seen later that day.

About 9pm we headed back into the park to look for nightbirds, but we neither saw nor heard any owls or nightjars.

September 29th

First stop of the day was a small roadside marsh to the North of Libertador San Martin, where we obtained very good views of two Rufous-sided Crakes feeding in the edge of the reeds. Also seen here, Common Thornbird and Greyish Saltator and a Wood Stork flying over.

Driving back south through Libertador San Martin, a Toco Toucan flew across the road a couple of hundred metres in front of us. Although there was only an avenue of trees it took quite a bit of searching to find this large bird perched high in a tree.

Toco Toucan

Next we headed for Tilcara via the Yala valley. Stops along the way rewarded us with good views of Grey-necked Wood-Rail, Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher and Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant and it was not until lunchtime that we arrived at Yala. Stopping at the picnic area by the river to eat lunch we were able to see another Rufous-throated Dipper. Walking up the road gave us some exercise, but only Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant was new. Driving higher we searched for Red-faced Guans, which Mario told us are slightly easier to see here than at Calilegua, but to no avail.

Heading on to Tilcara our final stop of the day was made at a lake, which was unfortunately dry, but we were able to see Brown-backed Mockingbird and White-sided Hillstar on the walk to it.

Back in the vehicle we had not driven a metre before the front right wheel disappeared down a huge hole that none of us had noticed. Fortunately a man tending his field came across with a pickaxe and spade and was able to help dig us out. Eventually we were able to continue to Tilcara where we stayed at the very nice Hostel Malka.

September 30th

The day started with a walk along the track behind the hostel and from there around the cactus gardens and inca ruins on the edge of the town. The only new specie was Black-hooded Sierra-Finch, but good views were had of Brown-backed Mockingbird and White-tipped Plantcutter along with more common species.

It was to be a long drive as we moved further north towards Abra Pampa, but stops made to sort through mixed flocks of Bright-rumped, Greenish and Puna Yellowfinches as well as Black Siskins and to watch Andean Condors soaring over the mountain tops. On arrival we went straight to Abra Pampa lagoon where there were lots of Chilean Flamingos, Andean Geese, Crested Ducks and other commoner ducks and waders. There were also several Puna Ibis, which were easy to see as the grass was so short, but later in the year can be difficult other than in flight.

On the grass were several Andean Negritos and Common Miners, and a very obliging Hellmayer's Pipit, which posed for photographs.

Heading into town we stayed at the Hotel Cesarito, which was basic but clean with en-suite facilities.

October 1st

We set-off from Abra Pampa for Laguna de Pozuelos at first light and it wasn't long before we were stopping to watch a Puna Miner just outside of town. This area can be good for Seedsnipe, but we were a little early and they had not arrived from their wintering areas.

Several stops were made along the road and at one by a small building in a canyon we were rewarded with the sighting of a Rock Earthcreeper and then, not 500 metres further on, a Straight-billed Earthcreeper.

As we approached Pozuelos we stopped for a Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant and were able to appreciate the differences between this and White-browed and Puna Ground-Tyrants, which were not well illustrated in the book we were using.

Having entered the National Park it did not take us long to find our first Lesser Rheas of the race which may eventually be split as Puna Rhea. The lake itself is saline and very shallow and ideal for Flamingos, with Andean, Chilean and Puna all present. In amongst these were several species of wader, including Andean Avocets and Puna Plovers. One of the specialities of the park is Giant Coot and although we could see several coots on the lake the heat haze was so bad it was not possible to tell if they were Giants or Andean.

Having had lunch we drove to a smaller lake called Laguna Larga, in the hills just to the North. Mario told us that it sometimes held Horned Coots as they prefer less saline water and this lake was slightly deeper than Pozuelos. However, apart from a very small puddle in the centre, the lake was dry. There were however several Coots on the far side so we walked out into the middle until we were close enough to be able to identify them. No Horned, but several Giant Coots were some consolation.

Heading back to Abra Pampa by a more southerly route we had excellent views of three Aplomado Falcons sitting on a row of fence posts.

October 2nd

Our first port of call was Lake Runtuyoc about 10km to the north of Abra Pampa, this had been dry a few weeks earlier, but was now full of water and held all three Flamingos and several Andean Avocets in addition to the commoner waterbirds.

We had a long drive ahead of us and it was gone midday when we stopped at Tilcara for lunch. Our next stop was at Purmamarca a small touristy town famed for its seven-coloured hill, best viewed in the early morning when the sun shows off the different coloured rocks to best effect. We were able to catch up with Andean Hillstar here, having seen several of the very similar White-sided Hillstars over the previous few days. A nice male Hepatic Tanager and several Stripe-capped Sparrows were also seen here.

Approaching Yala we stopped to try and call up White-barred Piculet, whilst trying to find this on the tape Mario played the Dot-fronted Woodpeckers call, and it appeared right on cue. There was however no sign of any Piculets, but ample compensation came in the form of five Buff-necked Ibises flying over.

We later arrived at our hotel to find that the pre-booked rooms had been taken by a group of students and there were no other rooms available. It took several phone calls before accommodation was found for us at a nice guesthouse, Hostel Cerro Azul, in the village of Yala. From the garden we were able to hear Guans calling from the nearby woods and White-collared Swifts were circling overhead.

Mario had recently received a tip-off from a friend that Lyre-tailed Nightjars could be found in the Yala Valley, so after dinner we set off with the spotlight to the site. As soon as we arrived we found one sitting high up across the branch of a tree. Whilst not an adult male, still a good bird and a lifer for Mario.

October 3rd

We were out at dawn to search for Red-faced Guans in the Yala Valley. Dusky-legged Guans were seen, but we could not find any Red-faced. Cinnamon and Dusky-capped Flycatchers were however new birds for the trip.

After breakfast we started the drive back towards San Lorenzo, stopping at La Cienaga reservoir for about three hours, including lunch. There were good numbers of ducks and herons, whilst none of these were new, a Large-tailed Dove that flew past was. A Yellowish Pipit could be heard calling apparently out over the water, but despite much searching of the sky we could not see it and were just about to give up when it was spotted on the ground about 15 metres in front of us.

Yellowish Pipit

In the afternoon we drove over the Santa Laura Mountain Pass. On the way we saw several Guans, which flew off before we had chance to ID them, but were almost certainly Dusky-legged and after numerous attempts we eventually taped in a White-barred Piculet.

Descending from the mountains we passed a small roadside lake, where we saw several Tawny-headed Swallows and a lone Comb Duck. It was then back to San Lorenzo, where Mario dropped us off at our hotel and arranged to meet us later for dinner. With an hours daylight left we decided to have a walk round the local area, this was rewarded when a Bat Falcon flew over and landed in a tree right beside the road. It proceeded to pick at an air plant, presumably trying to extract insects from it.

October 4th

Our final day was to be spent travelling. Mario took us to Salta airport where we said our final goodbyes and caught a flight to Buenos Aires. The driver who had taken us to San Clemente on our first day met us at Buenos Aires domestic airport and drove us to the international airport a journey of about 45 minutes. With a few hours to kill until our flight we were able to complete our checklists and a final total of 358 species was arrived at.

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