TRIP REPORT - SABAH, PENINSULAR MALAYSIA & S.THAILAND
28 MARCH - 8 MAY 2001
Daily Account
Wed 28th March
6.20am KLM flight from Edinburgh arrived Schiphol at 9.50am.
12.15pm Malaysian flight to KL
Thurs 29th March
Arrived KL 6.00am, Malysian flight to KK left at 9.15am and arrived 12.05pm. Taxi to Trekkers Lodge. Checked in and then picked up a taxi to Likas Bay. Birded from 2.00pm to 5.30pm. Dinner in Chinese restaurant. Overnight at Trekkers Lodge.
Fri 30th March
Morning at Likas Bay where we eventually found White-browed Crake. Caught the local bus back to town. Taxi to Tanjung Aru, did some birding in the local park and checked out the American Golden Plover on the airfield. Birded along the waterfront in KK until dusk, picking up White-bellied Sea Eagle, Whiskered Tern and Little Swift among others. Dinner at the excellent Angs Hotel on Lrg Segama.
Sat 31st March
8.00 am air-con bus from the long-distance bus station on Jalan Tunku Abdul Raman - we bought our tickets in advance from Trekkers Lodge which saved us hassle from the ticket touts at the bus station. Arrived MKNP at 10.00am, checked in, walked to our chalet and out on the Silau-Silau trail by 11.00am. Birding was slow but we recorded Bornean Whistler, Yellow-breasted Warbler, Scarlet Minivet, Grey-throated Babbler, Golden-naped Barbet and Crimson Sunbird. Walked up the Bukit Tupai trail continuing on the Mempening Trail and back via Bukit Burung to Silau-Silau. Birding was very slow; heard Mountain Barbet. Dinner at the somewhat overpriced but adequate restaurant in the Admin Centre - the exhibition upstairs is worth a look. Mountain Scops Owl calling very close to the cabins.
Sun 1st April
Out at 6.00am, walked up the road to the junction of the Silau-Silau and the Kiau View trails- lots of birds calling including Whitehead's Broadbill and Crimson-headed Partridge but still too dark to see anything. Poor views of Temminck's Babbler which called here every morning and then immediately disappeared (we did eventually get decent views). Walked down Silau-Silau trail which yielded brief view of a female Black-breasted Fruithunter. The Admin Centre garden produced a few new birds including Indigo Flycatcher and Little Pied Flycatcher. Quick breakfast then walked along the road to the wooded area near the Manggilan Hostel where we looked in vain for the Whitehead's Trogon which had been reported here, but did see Sunda Whistling Thrush. Walked the Kiau View trail then continued up the Power Station Road to the 2K marker but again no sign or sound of Whitehead's Trogon. Around 15.30pm returned to the upper end of the Silau-Silau trail (our 5th traverse), we found Short-tailed Magpies and a pair of Whitehead's Broadbill! Dinner again at the Admin Centre restaurant.
Mon 2nd April
A windy, cool morning with markedly fewer birds calling than yesterday. Walked up the Power Station Road to the 2km marker to check out the site for Red-breasted Partridge but no luck. Walked down Silau-Silau and had a brief view of a White-browed Shortwing. Met Phil & Charlotte Benstead who told us about a Fruithunter nest further down the trail allowing great views of the female and later the male. Walked along the Mempenning trail finally seeing Mountain Barbet. Walked up the Pandanus trail to the junction with the Kiau View trail where we had great views of Chestnut-backed Scimitar Babbler, Chestnut-capped, Sunda and Black Laughing Thrush (the Bornean form surely must be a separate species). Returned once more to the upper end of the Silau-Silau trail where at last we had great views of a pair of the elusive Whitehead's Trogon. Dinner at the cafe near the entrance with Phil and Charlotte.
Tues 3rd April
Bus to the Power Station and started up the Summit Trail. Started off well with Mountain Black-eye and brief views of Crimson-headed Partridge. Walked up as far as the 3.5k marker heard one Friendly Bush Warbler but were unable to tape it in. Heard another Friendly Bush Warbler on the way down but again failed to see it. Hard work with little reward. Dinner at the cafe.
Wed 4th April
A slow day. Tried for Bornean Stubtail at various known locations but still no luck. A female Whitehead's Trogon and excellent views of the Fruithunter brightened up our day but heavy rain and a thunderstorm brought it to an early close.
Thurs 5th April
A most frustrating day - heard several Bornean Stubtail, taped them in fairly close but could not see any. Arranged for a minibus to take us to Poring Hot Springs next day at the reduced rate of 40RM (normal price 60RM). Met up with Joe Tobias & Natalie Seddon late in the afternoon - they had seen Whitehead's Spiderhunter a couple of days ago on Mempenning trail (the only report of a sighting so far). We headed off to try our luck and spent a couple of hours searching but with no success.
Fri 6th April
Went to Mempenning trail at first light but no sign of the Spiderhunter. Back to cabin at 09.00am to pack, minibus arrived at 9.35am; reached Poring by 10.30am. Spent most of the day around the Kipungit Waterfall area where amongst others we picked up a female Raffles Malkoha, Crested Jay, Chestnut-winged Babbler, Eye-browed Thrush, Yellow-eared Spiderhunter. Met up with Phil and Charlotte who said that birding was slow (!!) Ended the day relaxing in the hot springs. Dinner in the PHS restuarant.
Sat 7th April
Slow, wet morning with little activity until early afternoon. Saw Rufous and Banded Woodpecker on the way to the Kipungit Waterfall and followed the river downstream for excellent views of Oriental Cuckoo, brief views of Ruddy Cuckoo Dove, flight views of Gold-whiskered Barbet.
Sun 8th April
Set off for the Langannan Waterfall and joined up with Phil and Charlotte. We picked up Fluffy-backed Tit Babbler, White-crowned Forktail, Rufous-capped Babbler and Red-throated Barbet but unfortunately, no sight or sound of Blue-banded Pitta. Heard Yellow-crowned Barbet and Green Broadbill.
Mon 9th April
Birded around the gardens and hot springs at first light seeing Rufous-tailed Tailorbird, White-crowned Shama, Scaly-breasted Bulbul and Crested Jay. Checked out at 9.00am and got the minibus to Ranau arriving at 09.30am. Bus to Sandakan left at 10.00am and arrived at Jalan Sepilok road end at 13.15pm. Booked in to Sepilok Resthouse and arranged to meet up with Robert Chong (our guide for the Kinabatagan River) at 3pm. He introduced us to one of the rangers at the Sepilok Orangutan Centre, who agreed to meet us at 6am next day to let us in to the reserve (this appeared to be the only way to get in before the normal opening time). We then birded around the Centre and along the road until dusk adding Grey-throated Buzzard, Thick-billed Spiderhunter, Plain-throated and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Grey-and-Buff Woodpecker and Short-toed Coucal to our list. Dinner at the Resthouse.
Tues 10th April
Entered the reserve at 6.00am and had great views of some inquisitive young Orang-utan. Heard Bristlehead calling and hurried to the feeding platform where we had fantastic, neck-breaking views of two birds as they hopped around the trees above our heads. Walked the Waterfall Trail to the Birder's Tower picking up Horsefield's, White-chested, Scaly-crowned and Short-tailed Babblers en route and eventually getting excellent views of a calling Black-crowned Pitta. In the afternoon we birded the roads around Sepilok, seeing our first Hornbill of the trip with good flight views of an Oriental Pied Hornbill followed shortly afterwards by a massive and unexpected Lesser Adjutant. Birded the roads areound Sepilok where Grey and Buff Woodpecker, Scarlet-backed, Crimson-breasted, Orange-bellied and Scarlet-breasted Flowerpeckers, Ruby-cheeked Sunbird, Moustached Babbler and Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike were also added to the list. Dinner at the cafe near the guesthouse.
Wed 11th April
Entered the reserve at 6.15am and quickly had great views of a White-bellied Woodpecker. Walked the beginning of the Mangrove trail but very quiet so returned to the Waterfall Trail and had great views of a group of a group of 6 Bornean Bristleheads. Heavy rain curtailed birding but we later had Asian Black Hornbill and great 'scope views of Rufous-backed Kingfisher from our balcony. Dinner at the Resthouse.
Thurs 12th April
Left for Kinabatangan at 6.00am with Robert Chong. Good views of Wallace's Hawk-Eagle and Rufous-bellied Eagle along the Sukau road. Reached Gomantong caves at 9.45am where we identified Glossy, Black-nest, Moss-nest and Edible-Nest Swiftlets at their nests. Apparently, the tender process awarding the contract to harvest the nests had been delayed which meant that instead of taking nests before the birds had laid, all nests now had eggs. As a result thousands of swiftlet eggs were being destroyed. Arrived at the Kinabatangan River at 10.45am where a boat was waiting to take us to the Proboscis Lodge. Excellent afternoon on the river including superb, close-up views of Rhinoceros Hornbill, 'scope views of White-fronted Falconet (Tenangan tributary), great views of Blue-eared Barbet, Black-and-red Broadbill, Green Imperial Pigeon, 2 wild Orang-utan, Silver Langur and several large, pot-bellied Proboscis monkeys. Back to the Lodge at 6.30, had a good dinner, several beers.
Fri 13th April
On the river by 6.15am and up a narrow tributary (Manangu River) just downstream from the Lodge. Quieter than the previous day but a few new birds including Blue-eared Kingfisher, Great Slaty Woodpecker and Cinnamon-rumped Trogon. Later that day we went far downstream and improved our hornbill list with flight views of Bushy-crested, good perched views of Asian Black and poor late-evening views of Wrinkled. However, no sign of Storm's Stork which was slightly worrying. After dinner we went on a short, night boat trip which produced several Buffy Fish Owl and excellent views of 3 Black-and-red Broadbills snuggling up together on a branch!!
Sat 14th April
6.00am found us with our last morning on the river, this time going upstream to the Ox-bow Lake where we found Lesser, White-bellied and Grey-headed Fish Eagles and Brown Barbet. Mounting concern over missing Storm's Stork. Left the Lake and continued on downstream but fairly quiet. However fate smiled on us because suddenly out of nowhere, there appeared a group of 5 Storm's Storks circling low over the river behind us! We watched them for several minutes and then, amazingly, saw a further 5 birds (1 single and 2 pairs) on our way back to the Lodge. Breakfasted, packed and were heading back along the Sukau road by 10.30. Robert dropped us at the road end at 11.45 and negotiated a minibus at RM10 each to take us to Lahad Datu. Following a somewhat nerve-wracking drive we arrived at the Danum Valley Field Centre offices at 1.00pm. Pre-booked transport to take us to the Field Centre appeared on time at 2.00pm. Arrived at DVFC around 4.00pm, birded along the river and waited for the Bat Hawk which duly appeared on cue over the bridge at 6.30pm. Picked up Brown Wood Owl behind the basketball court. Spent the first night in the Resthouse as the hostel was full of Boy Scouts but this proved to be expensive and not worth it as the fan was useless and it was so hot we didn't get any sleep anyway!
Sun 15th April
Up and out on the grid by 6.00am. Birding was very slow all day and we only managed to add a female Red-naped Trogon, Orange-backed, Buff-naped and Crimson-winged Woodpeckers and a Scaly-crowned Babbler to our list. Heard one brief call from a Blue-headed Pitta at W2 around 3.30pm but it failed to respond to tape and did not call again.
Mon 16th April
Up and out again at 6am with much the same results as yesterday - very quiet. Black-headed Pitta was the only Pitta calling and we spent ages trying to tape a calling Bornean Wren- Babbler into view without success. Spent a couple of hours on the first platform of the Hurrel Tree tower but all this produced was good views of a tribe of Maroon Langurs.
Tues 17th April
A very misty morning out on the grid with not much happening. Walked back to the Field Centre and then up the first section of the Waterfall Trail but apart from Bornean Gibbon and Giant Squirrel, still very quiet. We decided to change our tactics and arranged with the office staff for transport next day to take us to the Bornean Rainforest Lodge to try our luck there. We did go back to the grid later in the afternoon but gave up in despair at 4.00pm.
Wed 18th April
Left DVFC at5.20am arrived BRL by 6.15am and went out to the canopy walkway. There appeared to be more activity than at DVFC and we managed to get good views of Banded Broadbill and Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher amongst others. Walked the Hornbill trail seeing Bornean Blue Flycatcher and although there was quite a bit of general activity there was no sign of Blue-headed Pitta. Also walked the first part of the trail leading to the jacuzzi pool where Joe and Natalie had seen a Blue-headed Pitta the previous day but no luck. Returned to the canopy walkway later in the afternoon and then went back to DVFC about 5.30pm.
Thurs 19th April
Walked the DVFC Nature Trail in search of Great Argus (2 dancing grounds) and Crested Fireback but all was quiet. Torrential rain forced us back to the Centre where we arranged transport to take us to BRL the following morning as we had decided to give up on DVFC and move to the BRL for our last couple of days. We spent the rest of the day in the grid again seeing female Crested Fireback, good views of Bornean Blue Flycatcher, Chestnut-backed Forktail and a few babblers and bulbuls.
Fri 20th April
Transport arrived at 5am to take us to BRL. We arrived at 6.10am and by 7.30am we had seen Helmeted Hornbill, Orangutan, Bornean Gibbon, White-crowned Forktail, Bornean Bristlehead, Rufous-breasted Philentoma and Green Broadbill - so there was life in the rainforest after all! We had a much more fruitful day and caught up with many of the species we had been missing at DVFC. Much to our surprise we even found Pygmy White-eye and Black-backed Kingfisher in the gardens of the Lodge where they were supposed to be!! We went out on a night drive at 8.30pm but it was fairly quiet and only produced a Buffy Fish Owl and a Banded Malay Civet.
Sat 21st April
Met Wang Kong (local guide) at 5.30am and picked up pre-arranged transport which dropped us off at the gate at the main entrance to BRL. Plan was to walk back along the road until it was light enough to go into the trails but heavy rain meant that the light remained poor and we got very wet. Had a very frustrating glimpse of a disappearing male Diard's Trogon but had good views of Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler, Scarlet-rumped Trogon and Large Wood-shrike before giving up and returning to the Lodge. Back out at 10.30am and almost immediately heard and saw a male Diard's Trogon fairly close to the road. Walked back to the canopy walkway and then returned for a late lunch as the day warmed up. Out again at 3.00pm on the Hornbill Trail where we had great views of a pair of Scarlet-rumped Trogon and a female Great Argus. Canopy walkway produced Red-bearded Bee-eater, better views of a Large Wood-shrike, Green Imperial Pigeon, a Prevost's Squirrel and some Gibbons. To end the day, the Helmeted and Rhinoceros Hornbill put on a good show in the fruiting tree at the Lodge.
Sun 22nd April
Out again with Wang, round the nature trail and then along the road. We spent ages trying to tape in a Striped Wren-Babbler but although very close we never saw it. Walked the Tekala Trail but it was very quiet with only a Black Magpie to add to our list. Back to the Lodge for breakfast and left BRL at 10am. Arrived Lahad Datu at mid-day and decided to get a taxi to Semporna rather than wait for the mini-bus. Arrived Semporna at 2.15pm, checked our booking to Sipadan on Monday with Borneo Divers and then checked in to the Dragon Inn. Had a relaxing afternoon and dinner at the Seafest Cafe.
Mon 23rd April
Left Semporna on a fast launch at 9.45am (you have to wait for the customers arriving on the first flight from KK to Tawau). Arrived Sipadan at 11.00am - not much chance to bird on the way. Walked one of the trails seeing several Grey Imperial Pigeon before lunch. At 2.30pm walked around the island and had excellent views of Black-naped Fruit Dove along with several more Grey Imperial Pigeon. At 3.30pm we went out snorkelling with one of the dive boats which was stunning - don't miss it. Back on land we walked to the ruined accommodation huts and listened for a while until we heard rustling in the bushes and obtained great views of Tabon Scrubfowl. From the beach we later had good flight views of a single female Christmas Frigatebird, Pacific Reef Egret and White-bellied Fish Eagle. No sign of Nicobar Pigeon
Tues 24th April
Spent the morning birding and snorkelling and left after lunch returning to Semporna at 2.00pm where the Borneo Divers minibus was waiting to take us to Tawau airport. Arrived in good time for our flight at 5.40pm and got back to KK at 6.20pm. Taxi to Trekkers Lodge where, despite our previous re-confirmation, they did not have a booking for us. Took one of the available rooms overlooking the main street and spent a sleepless night. Excellent dinner at Angs Hotel.
Wed 25th April
Flight left on time at 10.35am, arrived KK at 1.00pm and got a taxi to Fraser's Hill. Stopped at the Gap en route and booked accommodation for Sat night then drove on to FH where we booked in to the Quest. Managed to get in an hour's birding interspersed with heavy rain before it got too dark. Found out that Spices cafe is no longer operating and our choice of eating places therefore very limited. Ate in the golf club cafe where the karaoke was loud, food dreadful and the beer expensive.
Thur 26th April
Awoken by the Muslim 'call to prayers' at 5.50. Walked up to the old zoo end of the Bishop's Trail where we immediately heard Rusty-naped Pitta calling. Responded to tape and came closer but we were unable to get any sight of it. However, we did get excellent views of Fire-tufted and Black-browed Barbet in a fruiting tree close by and later on had good views of Golden Babbler, a pair of Red-headed Trogon and most surprisingly, a Blue-winged Pitta sitting in the middle of the Hemmant Trail. We tried again later in the day for the Rusty-naped Pitta and again heard it calling but this time could not bring it any closer. Dinner in the Chinese restaurant next to Puncak Inn - food and beer ok.
Fri 27th April
Back to the Bishop's Trail at 6.30am but still no luck with the Pitta - it called briefly but was a good bit further away and didn't respond to the tape. Walked up to High Pines but saw little. Walked to the Dump in pouring rain; complete waste of time as the famed dump is now part of a building site. Skies cleared around 3.00pm and we went back out on the Bishop's Trail. Rusty-naped Pitta calling and eventually seen briefly by one of us following which the bird promptly disappeared.
Sat 28th April
Had a last try for the Pitta but no luck. Walked to the 2nd shelter then back to the Quest via the golf course which produced a pair of Little Pied Flycatchers and a Brown Shrike as well as a small feeding flock. Checked out and caught the 10.15 bus to The Gap. Birded along the road and caught up with some Bulbuls - Black-crested, Black-headed, Ochraceous, Ashy, Scaly-breasted and Stripe-throated!! Walked the Raub road after lunch and had a great afternoon seeing Black-thighed Falconet, Scarlet-naped Trogon, Sultan Tit, Orange-breasted Trogon, Silver-breasted Broadbill and Gold-whiskered Barbet. Celebrated with dinner and a couple of beers at The Gap.
Sun 29th April
Couldn't really improve on yesterday's birding but found female Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike sitting on a nest. Otherwise things were a bit quieter with Drongo Cuckoo and Red-rumped Swallow being the only birds of note. Pre-arranged taxi arrived at 12.30pm to take us to the airport in KL for our flight to Phuket. Arrived Phuket 18.15 and picked up our hire car (Suzuki mini 4WD). However as it was pouring with rain decided to stay in Phuket and drive to Krabi next day - booked in to Crown Nang Yai which was only 5 minutes from the airport.
Mon 30th April
Left Phuket at 7.20am and arrived Krabi at 9.30am. Found Chan Phen Travel office on the waterfront and booked Mr Dai for Friday. We tried to get him to take us out to the river mouth there and then but he said it was too late. However, we decided to go out with another boatman and spent a couple of hours on the sandbanks before the tide came in with decent views of Lesser Sand Plover, Terek Sandpiper, Rufous-necked Stint, Great Knot and Common Greenshank amongst the waders. Not surprisingly at this late date no sign of Nordmann's Greenshank. Left Krabi around 1.00pm and drove to Khlong Thom and then to Arrived KNC 2.30pm to find that all cabins were booked, but the staff set up a tent for us. Went out to the U trail 0.22 stake-out around 3.30-6.30pm but with 14 people sitting and standing not surprisingly there was no sign of the bird. Did get good views of a Large Wren Babbler.
Tues 1st May
Breakfast at 6.00am and back along to U0.22 stake-out. Stayed 3 hours - nothing but we did hear Gurney's calling much further up the U trail and went off in search of it but without any luck. Headed off to the B trail to check out a fruiting tree - good views of Red-crowned and Red-throated Barbets, Red-eyed, Grey-bellied and Cream-vented Bulbuls and Thick-billed Flowerpecker. Poured with rain and the rest of the day washed out. Spoke to Yothin in the evening about help in finding Gurney's, he didn't seem very keen but said he might go out with us the next day.
Wed 2nd May
Yothin appeared at breakfast but then promptly disappeared. Set off on our own and then bumped into Yothin along the trail where he agreed to guide us for the morning. Set off along the U trail, past the U0.22 stake-out and almost immediately heard a distant Gurney's calling. Yothin, following the sound, took us quickly to around U0.45 where we could hear the bird very close. After some agonising moments we had great views of a male Gurney's calling from a fallen log before it hopped off. Soon afterwards had great views of a calling perched Hooded Pitta further along the U trail. Yothin, now very charged, decided it would be great to end the season by finding all 5 Pittas in one day! Headed off trail to a Giant Pitta site but after an hour and a half decided our luck had now run out. Headed back to the U trail, picking up a few more Babblers on the way and eventually returning to the Morakot at 11.30. In the afternoon we went back to the fruiting tree on the B trail but it was fairly quiet. Muted celebrations in the evening as the Dutch and Belgians had still not seen the Pitta.
Thurs 3rd May
Breakfast at 6.00am and out along the road to KNC plateau where we had excellent flight views of Blue-winged Pitta at the plantation just beyond the fork to the A Trail. Headed back to the B trail which was fairly quiet - heard Hooded Pitta and had good views of a Green Broadbill. Walked along the A trail to the Emerald Pool but not much happening there either. Went back to the Morakot and left around 2pm for Krabi. Checked in to the Meritime, and went to Krabi airport finding numerous Oriental Pratincole and our one and only Indian Roller of the trip.
Fri 4th May
Out with Mr Dai at 6.30am, misty morning. Good views of Brown-winged Kingfisher, heard Mangrove Pitta calling and managed to see 3 birds very well but no sign of Ruddy Kingfisher. Left the mangroves at 8.30 to go out to the river mouth where it was high tide and fairly quiet. Same waders as earlier in the week. Back to Krabi at 10.30am and arranged to go out with Mr Dai again the following morning to try again for Ruddy Kingfisher. Mid afternoon went to the Ban Nai Chong site mentioned in the Chris Goodie report however we found it difficult to get access to the forest area as the tracks were very overgrown and mosquito infested. Started raining very heavily - the rest of the day was a complete wash-out.
Sat 5th May
Met Mr Dai at 7am and went back to the mangroves. This time we heard the Kingfisher calling and headed off down one of the smaller channels with Mr Dai whistling and calling to try to attract the bird. It always seemed to be just out of sight and we thought we were never going to get it close enough when it eventually flew over our heads giving us reasonable flight views. We then had another couple of flight views but despite all Mr Dai's hard work, we never managed to get the bird perched. We headed back around 9.30am picking up some Dusky Crag Martins on the limestone outcrops. Had a late breakfast, packed up and left Krabi around 1pm, drove to Phuket and checked in to the Crown Nai Yang hotel again at 3.30pm. Returned the hire car and went back to the hotel for a bit of relaxation, had a swim and birded around the hotel, adding Chinese Pond Heron to our list. Dinner in the hotel.
Sun 6th May
A relaxing morning starting with an early swim, birded around the hotel and along the road where we managed to add a couple of Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters to our list, had another swim and left the hotel at 1.30pm. Taxi to the airport, flight to KL left on time at 3.45pm and arrived at 6.00pm. Taxi to Hotel Istana, checked in and contacted our driver from the FH trip to arrange to go to Kuala Selangor early next morning. Dinner at Indian restaurant around the corner from the hotel.
Mon 7th May
Taxi picked us up at 5.30am, arrived in KS at 6.45am where we spent 3-4 hours birding. Failed to see Red Junglefowl again but had good views of Pink-necked Pigeon, Pied Triller, Flyeater and Plaintive Cuckoo. No sign of Mangrove Pitta or Mangrove Whistler. Headed back to KL when it became too hot for birding and spent the rest of the day being tourists haggling over the price of fake Rolex in Chinatown. Dinner again in the Indian restaurant.
Tues 8th May
Up at 6.30am, had breakfast and checked out. Taxi picked us up at 7.20am and arrived at KLIA at 8.30am in plenty of time for our 10.50am flight back to the UK
click here for full species listing
