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Itinerary
16th May 2002
Flight BA207 dep. London Heathrow scheduled 09.40 BST (actual dep. 10.00), arr. Miami International 13.55 EST (9 hour flight). At Miami we had to spend hours going through immigration and customs, even though we were in transit! Then took flight AA976 dep. 17.20 EST, arr. Quito 20.45 Ecuador time (3.5 hour flight). Transferred by courtesy bus to very comfortable Dann Carlton Hotel, provided gratis by La Selva Jungle Lodge. Though it was late, and we were tired, we had to repack much of our gear into one bag and leave the rest in the hotel's storeroom, as there was a strict weight limit of 20 lbs per person on the following day's flight to Coca.
17th May 2002
Pre-breakfast birding in Parque La Carolina in Quito, a short walk from the Dann Carlton Hotel, produced the first lifers including the spectacular Black-tailed Trainbearer. We then took a taxi to the airport and at 09.35 we took a flight with Icaro airlines over the snow-capped Andes to the town of Coca in Oriente province. Then transferred by motorized pirogue down the Rio Napo, at high speed for 2.5 hours, as far as the jetty for La Selva Jungle Lodge. Greater Yellow-headed Vulture was seen just east of Coca. The lodge itself is reached by hiking along a 1-mile-long slippery boardwalk, passing through dense Varzea palm forest, then via dugout canoe across the piranha-infested Garza Cocha lake. Hoatzins were easily seen around the lake. After stowing our gear in the comfortable cabin, we were introduced to our native birding guide, the highly recommended Jose Hualinga, who took us into the forest behind the lodge for several hours' birding from the canopy hide. The best birds seen from the hide were Olive and Green Oropendolas, and both White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans. On the way back Jose located a Tawny-bellied Screech-owl at roost.
18th May 2002
La Selva all day. Jose took us on an early morning tour of Garza Cocha lake in the dugout, then we walked back to the Rio Napo, before returning to the lodge for lunch. We briefly saw an Orange-crested Manakin along the boardwalk then by the river Jose got us on to an Amazonian Scrub-Flycatcher, a rare and little known species, though still just an LBJ. In the afternoon we birded forest trails behind the lodge, obtaining cracking views of a Rusty-belted Tapaculo.
19th May 2002
La Selva all day. We first crossed Garza Cocha lake and slowly birded the boardwalk, then crossed to the south side of the Rio Napo and did a circular walk through terra firme forest. Jose found us a Brownish Twistwing and Brown Nunlet among many other forest species. In the late afternoon we were taken by boat to a large river island downstream, where we saw several Bare-necked Fruitcrows, White-eared Jacamars and Ann just got on to an Amazonian Umbrellabird before it flew off. We returned to La Selva shortly before dusk.
20th May 2002
La Selva all day. After breakfast we climbed the canopy tower and birded for hours, seeing many new species including Lafresnaye's Piculet and Spangled Cotinga. After lunch we walked through forest to Mandi Cocha lake, which we explored in a dugout canoe, seeing several Azure Gallinules and pairs of Black-capped Donacobius. Returning through the forest, Jose called in a Sapphire Quail-Dove, which amazingly walked in the open along the trail. Late afternoon was spent on La Selva island in the Rio Napo, where we saw Parker's and White-bellied Spinetails, and heard Castelnau's Antshrike, then returned to the lodge at dusk.
21st May 2002
An early start was required to pack our belongings, and then make the return journey by boat back to Coca and the return flight to Quito. Landing in Quito we were met by a La Selva representative, who kindly took us to the Dann Carlton Hotel to pick up our stored luggage. We were then taken back to the airport to obtain a Hertz hire car. Driving in Ecuador is not for the feint-hearted, since there are very few road signs and the maps useless. We were soon completely lost somewhere southeast of Quito, and it was only after several hours and repeated attempts to elicit directions from local villagers that we eventually rejoined the road to Papallacta. Because of the time that had been lost, we decided to keep going until we reached our destination for the night, Guango Lodge, east of Papallacta village. The feeders at the lodge quickly yielded up several gorgeous Tourmaline Sunangels, here at the only regular stakeout for this species.
22nd May 2002
Early morning at Guango Lodge. Then retraced our steps to Papallacta village and the Hot Springs, in an unsuccessful search for Sword-billed Hummingbird. We then drove to San Isidro Lodge between Baeza and Pena, seeing a female Torrent Duck a few km east of Baeza. After continuing past it for several miles we eventually figured out that the lodge entrance road is unmarked, so it was just as well that we knew how far the turning was from Baeza, and had kept a note of the distance travelled. We just had time to check the hummingbird feeders and walk the (very wet) Antvireo Trail before dark.
23rd May 2002
San Isidro all day. We mainly birded from the road, judging the forest trails to be too wet for comfort. The best birds were a White-tailed Hillstar and just after dinner the so-called 'San Isidro Mystery Owl' put on a great performance despite light rain.
24th May 2002
A short pre-breakfast walk along the road at San Isidro turned up a Chestnut-crowned Antpitta. We then drove back to Papallacta Pass for several hours' birding. Several of the high paramo specialities were seen, including the sandgrouse-like Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe around the radio station. The rest of the day was spent driving back to Quito, returning the hire car, and getting by taxi to the Hotel Sierra Madre, where we were met by Iain Campbell of Tropical Birding, our guide for the rest of the holiday.
25th May 2002
An early start for the bird reserve on the upper slopes of Yanacocha volcano, north of Quito. The hummingbird feeders here attracted ten species, including several Shining Sunbeams, Great Sapphirewings, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, and both Sapphire-vented and Golden-breasted Pufflegs. However, the star bird was a female Black-breasted Puffleg, a critically endangered species. We also saw Andean Guan and heard Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan. Leaving Yanacocha, we birded the Old Nono-Mindo Road and finally arrived at Tandayapa Bird Lodge, or base for the next seven nights. The hummingbird feeders on the verandah are outstanding - this has to be one of the great bird spectacles of the world! We quickly saw hundreds of individuals of 17 species, including the exquisite Booted Racket-tail, a White-bellied Woodstar, and a female Empress Brilliant.
26th May 2002
An early breakfast then on to Los Bancos for first light and the best chance of seeing Ochre-breasted Tanager. Right on cue it was sitting up and singing, sounding just like a Song Thrush, as we got out of the vehicle; too easy! A short walk brought us to a clearing and superb views of Moss-backed Tanager. We spent several hours birding along this stretch of road enjoying, amongst many new birds, Ecuadorian and Chocó Trogons and Club-winged Manakin until it got too hot and we headed off to Mindo. It was good to sit on the verandah at Los Colibries, Mindo, watching the hummingbirds at the feeders whilst sipping tea and eating chips. Four new species were added, including White-necked Jacobin and White-whiskered Hermit. Just outside Mindo a roadside stop yielded a Little Cuckoo and after a brief stop at the lodge it was back to the Old Nono-Mindo Road for a superb showing of Andean Cock-of-the-rock, brief flight views of Crested Quetzal and a magnificent Lyre-tailed Nightjar.
27th May 2002
First light and we were out on the trails at Tandayapa with good views of Rufous-breasted Antthrush, Toucan Barbet, Ochre-breasted Antpitta and displaying Golden-winged Manakin but frustratingly only hearing Moustached Antpitta and glimpsing Immaculate Antbird. After a 3-course lunch and a browse at the feeders we took the Potoo Trail seeing Scaled Fruiteater, Andean Solitaire and Nariño Tapaculo.
28th May 2002
A 4 a.m. breakfast then a 2 hour drive to Pedro Vicente Maldonado arriving before the lorries started work at the quarry. We hoped to see Black-tipped Cotinga but there was no sign. We drove beyond the quarry and birded along the road for several hours where we encountered 5 new species of woodpecker, 3 new species of tyrannulet, ditto tanager, 2 species of tody-flycatcher, 3 new species of hummingbird (including Ann's much desired Purple-crowned Fairy) along with Chestnut-backed Ant-bird, White-flanked Antwren, White-throated Spadebill and a good mammal tick - a Tayra. A brief stop at Los Bancos on the way back produced 5 more new birds and on the road to Tandayapa our headlights picked out a Common Possum.
29th May 2002
The rare luxury of a lie-in! We spent from 6-11.30 a.m. birding the Upper Tandayapa Valley and although we heard Plate-billed Mountain Toucans we could not get views of them. We did see Beautiful and Turquoise Jay, Spillmann's Tapaculo and Gorgeted Sunangel amongst others before heading back to the lodge for a 3-course lunch and a brief rest before setting out to make another attempt on that toucan. But it was not to be and we were merely further tormented hearing them calling. However we did have stunning views of an Ocellated Tapaculo, while a Powerful Woodpecker nearly took our heads off when we played the tape. After dark a bonus was seeing a Central American Woolly Opossum eating dead wasps from one of the hummingbird feeders at the lodge.
30th May 2002
An early start for Four Rivers, arriving at first light but to torrential rain. We were reluctant to leave the vehicle but Iain insisted we did - the bully! (Ann was very glad of her Rohan dry-bags!). Eventually the rain eased off and we began to appreciate why we needed to be in the forest when that happened. First up was an Esmeraldas Antbird then Broad-billed Motmot, Black-headed Antthrush and Chocó Warbler. On then to Mindo Lindo for stunning views of Velvet-purple Coronet before returning to Tandayapa for a tree-roosting Oilbird - quite unexpected!
31st May 2002
Out before first light owling on the Tandayapa trails, but without success so back to the Upper Tandayapa Valley for one last shot for the Plate-billed Mountain Toucan. At last we saw one perched along the road to the forest research station; sighs of relief all round! Later in the afternoon we caught up with the scarce White-winged Brush-finch in scrub below Tandayapa Lodge.
1st June 2002
Back to Pedro Vicente Maldonado for Black-tipped Cotinga but no luck. We did see Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Snowy-throated Kingbird and Orange-tufted Barbet. On to Puerto Quito and great views of White-bearded Manakin. A return to Pedro Vicente Maldonado before driving to Santa Domingo's Hotel Zaracay for a two-night stay added Chestnut-mandibled Toucan.
2nd June 2002
We arrived at Rio Palenque Research Station at 6 a.m. and spent most of the day birding the trails and road. Best birds were Gray-breasted Flycatcher, Baron's Hermit, a presumed Slaty-tailed Trogon and Whiskered Wren, with a surprise find of a Least Grebe with 2 downy young. Little Tinamou was heard, yet again, but could not be coaxed out.
3rd June 2002
An early start for Rio Palenque Research Station for some owling; unfortunately the weather was against us and heavy rain prevented birding. We decided to do something entirely different to the planned itinerary and headed west for 100+ km to Chone Marshes, not particularly good for endemics (our main targets) but fantastic for variety and numbers of birds. There were hundreds of Neotropic Cormorants and Wood Storks, dozens of Least Grebes and Pied-billed Grebes with young, Glossy Ibis (5), Laughing Gull (4), Magnificent Frigatebird, Clapper Rail, seen briefly by Andrew and Ann before disappearing into the reeds at the back of the lagoon near the cemetery, and Chestnut-throated Seedeater which was even a new bird for Iain! En route we encountered White-tailed Kite and Red-masked Parakeet. We arrived at Tinalandia after they had finished serving dinner but the staff were great and quickly rustled up a 3-course meal; cheese soup was new to us and definitely an acquired taste!
4th June 2002
Tinalandia, named after Tina (the Russian founder), and although it has seen better days, still charming and good for birding; also the only place where we saw snakes. Out early on the trails with good views of Slaty-capped Shrike Vireo, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Great Antshrike, Brown-billed Scythebill and a glimpse of a Rufous-fronted Woodquail. The feeders around the dining room provided excellent opportunities for photography, especially of tanagers, and a close view of Chestnut-backed Antbird which flew in as we were eating.
5th June 2002
An early drive to Cotopaxi NR south of Quito to which we were admitted free because it was National Environment Day. Unfortunately every school in the area had decided to do their bit for the environment and by 10 a.m. the car park at the lake had 8 coaches disgorging hundreds of youngsters who were there to collect rubbish. By the time they had finished their picnics they had produced more rubbish than was originally there! Anyway they did not interfere with us and we walked along the edge of the lake in search of Ecuadorian Rail eventually seen by Andrew and Iain. Streak-backed Canastero and Ecuadorian Hillstar rounded off our official tour with Tropical Birding and so back to Quito. However...
6th June 2002
Iain could not bear the thought of Andrew being dragged around the shops for a whole day and neither could Andrew! So we persuaded Iain to take us for the afternoon to Calicali Pass, just north of La Mitad del Mundo, where we added another seven new birds, including White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant, Grassland Yellow-Finch and Giant Hummingbird (our 50th hummer!). We finished the day with a meal and a pint of Guinness at an English pub in Quito, The Queen Victoria. where we were joined by Iain's wife, Cristina, and Dave Siems, Iain's mate from Australia who had been our driver for most of the tour. Spent our last night in Ecuador at the Hotel Sierra Madre.
7th June 2002
Pre-breakfast start to get to Quito airport. Each person leaving Ecuador has to find $25 departure tax, in cash. Flight AA 966 dep. Quito 08.36 arr. Miami International 13.50 EST. Then took flight BA206 dep. Miami 16.50, arr. London Heathrow 06.35 on 8th June.
Contact Information
Guango Lodge and San Isidro Lodge: www.ecuadorexplorer.com/sanisidro/html/new_reserves_and_lodges.html
La Selva Jungle Lodge: www.laselvajunglelodge.com
Tandayapa Bird Lodge: www.tandayapa.com
Tropical Birding: www.tropicalbirding.com.
A trip report for the Tropical Birding part of our trip (May 25th - June 6th), written by our guide Iain Campbell, can be found at www.tropicalbirding.com/tripReports/TR_NWEcuador_May2002.html
Bibliography
DUFF, A. & LAWSON, A. 2001. Mammal Data Add-on to Birdbase/BirdArea. Santa Barbara: Santa Barbara Software Products.
LOPEZ-LANUS, B. & GASTEZZI, P. 2000. An inventory of the birds of Segua Marsh, Manabi, Ecuador. Cotinga 13: 59-64.
RIDGELY, R.S. & GREENFIELD, P.J. 2001. The Birds of Ecuador. 2 vols. London: Helm.