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Introduction
Fuerteventura, one of the easternmost of the Canary Islands, lies some 92km off the west coast of North Africa and is approximately 100km long and 30km wide. Dry, barren and covered by stony desert plains and mountains the bird list for the island is relatively small but varied, and in some cases unique. Star bird of the island has to be the Canary Island Chat, which is found nowhere else in the world whilst a close second would perhaps be the globally threatened Houbara Bustard which has its only European foothold here and is represented by an endemic subspecies. The supporting cast includes the near endemic Macaronesian specialities of Plain Swift and Berthelot's Pipit with other star birds such as Cream-coloured Courser, Black-bellied Sandgrouse, Trumpeter Finch, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Barbary Partridge and Egyptian Vulture, and with outside chances of Marbled Duck and Barbary Falcon the attractions of visiting the island soon become clear.
Visiting
Easily booked through a travel agent as part of a package holiday, but as usual shop around to try and get the best deals. For this trip 7 nights self-catering cost around £250.00 per person which includes direct flights, with flight time approximately 4 hours.
Fuerteventura is one of the most sparsely populated of the Canary Islands with the main tourist resorts of Corralejo in the north, Costa Calma towards the south and to a lesser extent Caleta de Fuste on the east coast. The latter site provided the base for the week as it is centrally placed for exploring the island. Transfer time from the airport is approximately 15 minutes.
Hiring a car is the only realistic way of getting about the island and the quality of the roads are all excellent with relatively little traffic. Most of the tracks are of crushed gravel and are passable in a standard vehicle, although common sense is advised in some areas where it may be best to leave the vehicle and continue on foot. On this trip car hire for 3 days through Hertz cost £58.00 which was for a group B car (Fiat Punto 1.9D or equivalent) with air conditioning (essential in my view) and unlimited mileage. However for the days of this visit no group B cars were available which meant an automatic upgrade to group C and the use of a Seat Cordoba 1.4 Estate for the duration. Distance covered for this period was 548km with a full tank of unleaded petrol costing about £15.00.
Weather for this time of year is still sunny and warm with average temperatures ranging between 25 and 27°C (77 and 80.6°F). However for the week of this visit temperatures were slightly higher than usual with an average of 30°C (86°F) for the week and a maximum of 34°C (93.2°F) experienced mid afternoon of 25th October. Winds at the beginning of the week were moderate to fresh north-easterlies becoming light or calm and from the north-west by the end of the week. Sunrise was around 0730GMT with the morning occasionally overcast until around c.1100hrs. The hottest part of the day, often with clear skies, then lasted into the evening until sunset around 1915hrs.
Whilst out walking high factor suncream should be applied as the breeze can be deceiving and also take plenty of fluids to help avoid sunstroke. At most of the 'birding' sites there is often very little or no shade and it can become very hot. Taking items off the following list would be advisable when out birding:
Walking boots/Stout shoes
Long sleeved loose fitting shirt/trousers (sun protection)
Sunhat
Suncream
Food
Plenty of water
Site details were obtained from the invaluable A Birdwatchers' Guide to the Canary Islands by Tony Clarke and David Collins as well as more recent trip reports gathered from internet sites. Some site details since the publications have changed slightly and full access details to all the sites visited are printed below. The best map for the island that I found was the GeoCentre 1:100 000 Leisure Map of Fuerteventura which is £3.99 and can be ordered from most bookshops.
Sites Visited
Caleta de Fuste
Any area of cover around the hotel and apartment complexes should be checked, while the beach regularly produces Yellow-legged Gull and a few Spanish Sparrows. The area around the harbour forms part of the old town known as El Castillo. A short stretched of newly constructed promenade, running north from the harbour itself, adjoins an area of rocky shoreline which often produces a few waders, while the harbour walls are a good place to sea watch from.
Just to the south of the resort, between the sea and coast road, is an area of sandy stony plain with small thorny bushes of aulaga and a few isolated tamarisks. However, a large amount of construction work (of new hotel complexes) is gradually encroaching into this area. From the resort itself follow the main promenade around the beach to the obvious, lone white, restaurant Frasquita. The gravel track to the right of this was then followed for c.1 mile before retracing the route. The shoreline here is rocky with some sandy areas at low tide which proved good for certain wader species. It is possible to follow this track as far south as Las Salinas (the salt pans), walking time c. 1 hour from Fustes, with the Barranco de la Torre reached after a further 20 minutes from there, although this was not done during this visit.
Salinas del Carmen (Las Salinas)
Well signposted off to the left on the FV2 3km south of Caleta de Fustes immediately before the sharp right hand bend. Follow the gravel track round to the right at the bottom by the closed down restaurant. View from the edges as it is prohibited to walk across the walls of the saltpans, and in any case this is likely to flush any birds that may be present. If the track is followed south for a further 20 minutes this then leads into the Barranco de la Torre on the right hand side.
Barranco de la Torre
On the FV2, 3km south of Caleta de Fuste, the road bends sharply to the right where it is signposted to Salinas del Carmen. After a further 1.5km look for a lone white house on the left, set back from the road, and take the track with a faded 'no entry' sign. Park on the right immediately after the sign. Follow the track for c.100 yards, and then bear right onto a less well marked track which leads into the bottom of the barranco with areas of date palms and tamarisks. If you were to stay on the main track this gradually fades out at the top of the cliff just past a derelict building and does not give access into the barranco. Alternatively this site can also be accessed from Salinas del Carmen (directions as given under that site).
La Oliva
This village is 38km from Caleta de Fustes by road with a travelling time of approximately 35-40 minutes. Take the FV2 north from Fustes and then follow signs for La Oliva on the FV10 just before Puerto del Rosario. On approaching the village of La Oliva park off the road (best on the wide gravel stretch on the left) overlooking the cultivations on one side and a stony plain with Mt. Oliva as a backdrop on the other.
An area of plains and cultivations can be viewed from Rosa de los Negrines just to the north of the village. After parking as described above continue towards the village and take the left turn on the FV10 signposted to El Cotillo. At the last house on the right in the village take the gravel track which leads immediately up to the left. Follow this for c.1.5km to an area of cultivations on the right with scattered palms and fig trees. Park by the low stone walls at the cultivations and view the low hills from here. This is described as being a good site to watch for Houbara in the evenings although as you have to look to the west to view the plain the sun can be a problem.
El Cotillo
This small village at the north-west end of the island is not to be confused with El Castillo, the old part of Caleta de Fustes. El Cotillo is approximately 50-55 minutes travelling time from Fustes and is located 17km north-west of La Oliva on the FV10. Just past the village sign, and just before entering the village itself, take the first turning on the left onto a tarmac road. Follow this round to the right and then take the wide gravel track to the left. Stay on this track for a further 3km or so after which it becomes rather rough, so it may be best to continue on foot from here. Narrower tracks towards the village lead off to various parking areas giving access to the rocky shore and beach. Again a traditional site for Houbara the best method here is to view from the car stopping every 50-100 yards or so to scan. An early morning visit is essential as after c.10.00am heat haze becomes a problem.
Embalse de los Molinos
This site was accessed from the southern end of the reservoir. From the north off the FV10 take the FV207 south signed Tefia. After 7km pass through Tefia, continue past the turn to Los Molinos (signed Las Parcelas) and then take the gravel track on the right after a further 0.9km. Take this gravel track for c.1km, pass a house on the left and then go through an open gateway by a house on the right. Continue to a gated fence and go through here parking immediately on the right. (If the gate is closed please make sure to close it again behind you). Take the inconspicuous track to the left ('south') adjacent to a low fence which leads into the Barranco de Tao. Follow this to the right along the dry stream bed, pass the goat farm on the ridge to the right and just before the inlet and dead tamarisks take the goat path (with caution as it is quite steep and on loose ground) up to the right on the hillside then follow the track to view the reservoir down to the left. On this visit there was no cover along the edges of the reservoir as all of the tamarisks have died, although in some areas it appeared new saplings had started to grow. Also apart from a small stream leading to a pool that still held some water by the dam, the reservoir, said to be the only area of permanent water on the island, was completely dry. The smell, and subsequent flies attracted to the goat farm proved a magnet for passerines.
In Clark & Collins details are also given for access from the north, but this was not tried during this visit.
Costa Calma
The sandy plain to the north of the village is known as the Istmo de la Pared and forms the eastern end of the Parque Natural de Jandía. This area is reported to be the best on the southern part of the island for Houbara and access is gained from two points.
1) Take the FV2 south from Caleta de Fustes (signed to Morro Jable (Jandía)) to Matas Blancas which is 46km by road and c.50 minutes travelling time. Turn right (north) past post km63 on the minor road signed to La Pared. After c.2km up the hill look for a large white sign set back off the road on the left and then take this track off to the left. After a sort distance take the first obvious track off to the left and follow for c.1km until you have a good vantage point over the plain.
2) Directions from Fustes as above except instead of turning off at km63 continue towards Costa Calma. On entering Costa Calma go over the first roundabout and then take the first exit at the second roundabout. Follow the road round to La Palmeral supermarket, go past here following the road to the left and park where the tarmac road terminates at the start of a gravel track. A small broken down fence is visible just in front with the windfarm just to the left. It is possible to view from here but if follow the gravel track for c.10-15 minutes some small raised sandy ridges give better views over the plain.
It should be noted that an early morning visit is essential at this site as after c.9.45-10.00am heat haze becomes a problem as well as the numerous walkers that use the area. Although no Houbara were seen, two tracks of footprints were found.
La Pared
Directions for this small village are the same as the access details given in (1) for Costa Calma above, up to the point where the gravel track is taken off the minor road. Continue on the minor road to La Pared and on entering the village turn left onto a gravel track which soon becomes a tarmac road. Continue straight on through the village until reaching a rough parking area at the end of the tarmac road on the clifftop. It is reported that this is a reliable spot to see Black-bellied Sandgrouse which come to drink in any gullies that may contain fresh water up to around mid morning. On the time of this visit all gullies were very dry hence no drinking birds were seen although a flock did fly over.
La Lajita - (The Zoo)
Worth a visit if in the area. It comprises largely of bird gardens with various exotics including Ruddy Shelduck, Marbled Duck and a single Rose-coloured Starling. Handy if you are desperate for some extra "ticks" on your trip! Access is gained immediately off the FV2 (signed on the right hand side off the road). Entry to just the wildlife park is 6 euros each for adults. The palms here held numerous Spanish Sparrows.
FV30 between Pájara and La Vega de Río de las Palmas
Access is off the FV20 in Tuineje onto the FV30 signed to Pájara, then continue through the village following signs for Betancuria off to the right. The road is very narrow and very winding up into the mountains with several hairpin bends. Caution and concentration are advised to the driver, which is unfortunate for them as the views are spectacular. After 6-7km various pull offs on the left are approached before reaching two specifically designated viewpoints. It is worth stopping at each one to scan for birds, if not, at least to feed the exceedingly tame Barbary Ground Squirrels.
Embalse de las Peñitas
Continue on the FV30 as described above and then take the road to the left on entering Vega de Río de las Palmas signed to the same. Take the narrow road for 1km down hill and just after crossing the stream bed park up to the right after c.50 yards. Do not use between 12.15-12.45 as this is a bus turn around point. Head back along the road and take the track to the left alongside the right of the stream. 1 minute along drop down into the stream bed and remain in it for c.10 minutes until reaching an extensive area of tamarisks. Take the old washed out path that ascends to the right then head down on the narrower path to the left to skirt the reservoir. At the time of this visit the reservoir was completely dried out and looked as though it had been for some time.
Systematic list
Just 41 species of bird were seen during the week but this did include most of the islands specialities. Houbara Bustard was not seen despite an extensive search at three suitable and known sites and Marbled Duck was also missed due to the condition of Los Molinos reservoir. The heat and drought conditions may have influenced most of the species that were either seen or missed, in particular the chances of seeing waders and waterfowl. A list of mammals, dragonflies, reptiles and butterflies follows which contains such highlights as the exceedingly tame Barbary Ground Squirrels and the spectacular Plain Tiger butterfly. Several dragonflies and butterflies were seen at various sites throughout the week, but only those specifically identified are included in the list.
BIRDS
Cory's Shearwater Calonectris diomedea borealis
A single distantly offshore from the harbour at Caleta de Fustes, and 8 during a 10 minute seawatch to the south of the resort on 23rd October.
Little Egret Egretta garzeta
A single bird showed very well feeding on the rocky shore to the south of Caleta de Fustes on 23rd October.
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
A single flew north on 25th October along the coast road just to the north of Caleta de Fuste.
Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
On 25th October, 4 adults showed well at Los Molinos reservoir both on the ground and in flight when they called frequently.
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
On 25th October a fine adult gave excellent views circling over Los Molinos reservoir for c.5 minutes.
Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus granti
According to Clark and Collins this species is not found on Fuerteventura with the nearest breeding sites on Tenerife. It was therefore surprising to see a single bird circling around the mountains at Las Peñitas on 26th October before flying off south.
Buzzard Buteo buteo insularum
This Canary Island Subspecies, which is considered an uncommon breeder on Fuerteventura, is slightly shorter winged, browner above and more streaked below than nominate buteo. On 26th October, 3 birds gave good views circling for c.5 minutes from one of the viewpoints on the FV30 between Pájara and La Vega de Río de las Palmas and a single showed well as it circled over the FV20 at km6 eastbound, before drifting off east towards Puerto del Rosario.
Kestrel Falco tinnunculus dacotiae
This Canary Island Subspecies confined to the Eastern isles is smaller than the nominate race, paler with a more rufous/cream heavily streaked breast. A single was seen briefly at El Cotillo on 25th October and on 26th October a male and female were seen at Las Peñitas, the male being seen particularly well and allowing study of plumage differences. A further single was seen near Costa Calma on 27th October.
Barbary Partridge Alectoris Barbara
On 24th October, 8 flushed from the Barranco de la Torre were watched in flight before being lost to view over the plain in heat haze. On 26th October c.30 were flushed from beside a track at Costa Calma with 6 later showing well on the plain there, while on the same day c.30 were flushed at quite close range from a dry stream bed at Las Peñitas before landing on a nearby hillside.
Coot Fulica atra
On 25th October c.30 has collected on the small amount of remaining water near to the dam at Los Molinos reservoir.
Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor bannermani
A surprise find was an adult which showed well on a small area of stony plain immediately south of the resort of Caleta de Fustes on 23rd October, appearing quite unperturbed by walkers close by. Another adult showed well, actively feeding, at El Cotillo on 25th October and 4 adults showed quite well at Costa Calma on 27th October.
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
On 25th October a flock 41 were seen on the stony plain adjacent to Los Molinos reservoir.
Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
A single on the rocky shoreline near the harbour at Caleta de Fustes, and 5 on the rocky shore to the south of the resort on 23rd October, with a single again on rocks near the harbour on 29th October.
Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
On 23rd October 4 showed well on the rocky shore to the south of Caleta de Fustes and a single was on rocks by the harbour at the resort on 29th October.
Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
On 23rd October 2 were on the rocky shore to the south of Caleta de Fustes.
Sanderling Calidris alba
On 25th October, 9 showed very well on the rocky shore at El Cotillo.
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
On 23rd October 3 were on the rocky shore to the south of Caleta de Fustes.
Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
A single was seen at Los Molinos reservoir on 25th October.
Greenshank Tringa nebularia
On 25th October 6 were seen at Los Molinos reservoir.
Common Sandpiper Actites hypoleucos
A single on the rocky shoreline near the harbour at Caleta de Fustes, and 6 on the rocky shore to the south of the resort on 23rd October.
Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Two on the rocky shoreline near the harbour at Caleta de Fustes, and 3 on the rocky shore to the south of the resort on 23rd October
Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans atlantis
Seen at several sites, but by no means numerous. At Caleta de Fustes, 3 on rocks just to the north of the harbour, 5 to the south of the resort and 20 on the beach on 23rd October. A single adult on the rocky shore at El Cotillo on 25th October, showing down to 6ft, allowed a prolonged close study while on the same day another adult was well inland over the plains at Los Molinos. Up to 3 were seen around the beach and harbour area at Caleta de Fustes during 27th to 29th October with up to 20 birds passing over the resort some evenings.
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Singles were seen offshore from the harbour at Caleta de Fustes on 23rd October and off El Cotillo on 25th October with 7 off the harbour at Caleta de Fustes on 29th October.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
As predicted the plains around Costa Calma proved to be the best site to see this species. On 26th October 4 showed very well in flight before landing and giving good views feeding for 10 minutes, and a further 10 flew north-west giving excellent views set against a clear blue sky. The same morning at nearby La Pared 28 flew over the beach car park, circled twice and then flew off south-west. All were heard, often for several minutes, before being seen, the bubbling call somewhat reminiscent of lekking Black Grouse, immediately giving away their presence. Birds were heard calling again at Costa Calma on 27th October but were not seen.
Rock Dove Columbia livia
Three at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October were very like "pure" Rock Doves, including showing a white rump, but c.20 at Los Molinos on 25th October showed a variety of plumages. On 26th October 5 at Las Peñitas were close to "pure" birds
Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocta
This species is classed as localised on the Canary Islands with an uncertain status. Up to 3 around the resort of Caleta de Fustes on 23rd October, 5 around the zoo at La Lajita on 26th October and up to 3 around the resort of Caleta de Fustes again on 27th to 29th October.
Hoopoe Upupa epops
On 24th October a single flew over the cultivations at Rosa de los Negrines before briefly landing in a bush, while on 25th October another single showed very well at Los Molinos with a further 2 drinking from the reservoir itself. Singles were seen on the plain at Costa Calma on 26th and 27th October.
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens polatzeki
This canary Island Subspecies was only seen at one site. At Los Molinos on 25th October, 30 (including one with a deformed lower mandible) were drinking from a small pool with two birds proving particularly confiding showing to just a few feet. On 26th and 27th October flocks were heard calling at Costa Calma but were not seen.
Swallow Hirundo rustica
A single bird around the resort of Caleta de Fustes on 23rd October.
House Martin Delichon urbica
Two were seen around the resort of Caleta de Fuste on 23rd October.
Berthelot's Pipit Anthus berthelotii berthelotii
The Canary Island Subspecies of this Macaronesian endemic was seen across the island. At La Oliva on 24th October a single was seen on the stony plain just before entering the village and 2 flew over the track towards Rosa de los Negrines. On 25th October 2 were seen at El Cotillo and 3 at Los Molinos, all showing very well. A single showed well in the car park of the zoo at La Lajita on 26th October while on the same day birds were seen at some of the viewpoints on the FV30 between Pájara and La Vega de Río de las Palmas with 2 at one and 9 at another, and were often very tame approaching as close as 4-5ft. A single bird was then seen on a patch of rough ground near the harbour at Caleta de Fustes on 29th October.
Canary Island Chat Saxicola dacotia
This endemic species was seen just once. A single male showing well perched on a fence by the goat farm at Los Molinos on 25th October.
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata orbitalis
Some small Sylvia warblers seen very briefly at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October were presumed to be this species.
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
A possible male was seen very briefly at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October and a female showed well at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
A single was seen in the tamarisks at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
A single showed well in the tamarisks at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus degener
This uncommon distinctive Canary Island Subspecies confined to Fuerteventura and Lanzarote was seen only at Las Peñitas. On 26th October 13 were seen in the tamarisks here, some of which showed well to allow a more prolonged study of their distinctive plumage.
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor koenigi
The Canary Island Subspecies proved quite easy to see. On 25th October, two showed very well at El Cotillo and a single was seen on roadside wires by the FV2 just to the north of Caleta de Fustes. Two were seen on the plain at Costa Calma on 26th October and on the same day two birds were seen along the FV30 between Pájara and La Vega de Río de las Palmas (at different viewpoints) one of which took to stealing food given to the Barbary Ground Squirrels. Also 2 showed very well at Las Peñitas, one of which was hunting a flock of Blue Tits and 3 were seen on roadside wires along the FV20. One near Casillas del Angel and 2 just to the north of Caleta de Fustes. A single showed well again at Costa Calma on 27th October
Raven Corvus corax tingitanus
On 24th October 2 were seen over hills to the north of La Oliva, while on 25th October a single was seen at El Cotillo and 2 showed very well at Los Molinos reservoir. On 26th October 2 were seen (at times very close) around the mountains at Las Peñitas
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
On 25th October, 15 around the goat farm at Los Molinos consisted of both male and female birds. The palms around the zoo at La Lajita held several birds on 26th October with a single female seen at Las Peñitas the same day. Up to 4 (3 male and 1 female) showed very well around bushes along the promenade and on the beach at Caleta de Fustes during 27th to 29th October.
Trumpeter Finch Budanetes githagineus amantum
On 23rd October 5 showed very well on a small area of stony plain just to the south of Caleta de Fustes while 10 were seen near to the entrance of the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October but were flighty. On 25th October 7 showed very well at Los Molinos and included a colour ringed male (white and green on right leg).
MAMMALS
Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus
Four on the plain at Costa Calma on 27th October were the only ones of the week.
Barbary Ground Squirrel Atlantoxerus getulus
This introduced species (confined to Fuerteventura within the Canary Islands) was seen at a few sites in the central part of the island and was often very tame. Two were seen along the access track to Los Molinos on 25th October and a total of 18 were seen at two viewpoints on the FV30 between Pájara and La Vega de Río de las Palmas (12 at one and 6 at the designated viewing point) often taking food from the hand.
DRAGONFLIES
Lesser Emperor Anax parthenope
A single, presumed female, seen several times at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October.
Scarlet Dragonfly Crocothemis erythraea
A single male was seen well at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombii
Up to 5 (3 females and 2 males) were seen very well at the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October and 2 (a male and female) were seen at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
REPTILES
Atlantic Lizard Galiotia atlantica maharotae
Referred to as Haria Lizard in Clarke & Collins, this sub species of the Canary Island endemic is confined to Fuerteventura and Los Lobos. It was seen at two sites. Due to colour and markings all were presumed to be either females or young males. Two were found sunbathing in the Barranco de la Torre on 24th October and two were seen very well along the cliffs by the beach car park at La Pared on 26th October.
BUTTERFLIES
Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta
A single was seen at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Painted Lady Cynthia cardui
A single was seen at Las Peñitas on 26th October.
Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus
A single individual of this spectacular butterfly was seen at Las Peñitas on 26th October, a site noted for this species. A single individual, presumably this species, was seen to fly in off the sea and inland over the beach at Caleta de Fuste on 28th October. Due to the view obtained however, Monarch Danus plexippus could not be ruled out.