 |
EMAIL THIS PAGE TO PALS |
More reports for this region The Gambia
27th November - 8th December 2000
Trip Participants:
Ian Prentice, Holt, Norfolk
Steve Arlow, Southend on Sea, Essex
Mike Clarke, Stanford le Hope, Essex
Andrew (Fuzz) Crutchley, Bath, Somerset
Ian and Michelle (Ian's Wife) had originally decided to visit Gambia in December 2000 in which Ian would do some birding. Fuzz had shown an interest in going and was to join them in their trip. I had thought about returning to The Gambia for just a cheap week away birding in the sun and I eventually teamed up with Ian, Michelle and Fuzz. The next thing I knew was that Mike Clarke was coming with us and Michelle had decided to drop out (presumably didn't fancy spending 10 fun packed birding days with 4 blokes wandering around sewage works and Mangrove swamps).
Costs:
Flight and accommodation was on Bed & Breakfast basis at the Badala Park Hotel at £371.00. The cost of the local bird guide came to £210.00 per person and was agreed in advance.
References Used:
A Birdwatchers Guide to The Gambia by Rod Ward.
Field Guide to the Birds of the Gambia by Clive Barlow
Otus video guide to the Birds of the Gambia
Accommodation:
Badala Park Hotel near Kotu was the ideal birding location on the coast with the Casino Cycle track and dunes, Kotu stream and sewage ponds and the beach area's and golf course all within a very short walk from the hotels main entrance. The facilities were ample with poolside bar and 2 restaurants to choose from, the Chinese was particularly good. The rooms were clean and ample for 2 persons with both a ceiling fan and floor standing fan provided. There was entertainment around the pool in the evenings organized by the hotel such as the bicycle man. The best entertainment, however was actually supplied by the guests and was totally unintentional, the man who we voted as the worst wig wearer ever which was amazingly inappropriately coloured and 2 sizes to small, and that man FISH.
Tendaba Camp was adequate for a few days with a bar on the riverbank where all meals are also served. The rooms were relatively simple but spacious and supplied with a floor standing fan and Mosquito nets over the beds. The rooms are sprayed in the evenings to kill off any mosies that may be lurking. The Creek crawls were an adventure in themselves with noisy engines that broke down mid way back across the Gambia river at dusk and they all seem to leak. A bucket is provided to periodically bail out the water in the bottom of the boat.
Georgetown Camp is basic with rather small cramped rooms but supplied with a floor fan. The toilet / shower had much to be desired but at least it wasn't just a hole in the floor, a curtain separates you from the main room, sound proofing not included. The food was pretty good but the music while you eat can put a strain on conversation. Not that it's loud it's just when the geiser starts to sing its difficult not to burst out laughing or choke on your rice.
Food and Drink:
Water needs to be taken in daily by the bucket load, remember dehydration is a real problem as the temperatures and humidity levels are far higher than the summers back in Britain even on overcast days.
Bird Guides:
We used a local guide by the name Baba (who I had used during a trip back in 1996) for 8 out of our 10 days. He was contacted by Ian prior to our trip. We had decided to sort out a local guide prior to departure rather than sort one out when we got there which would not only time consuming but we also wouldn't really know the standard of his birding or even if he knew where the birds were.
After the initial contact with Baba an itinerary was agreed with Baba suggesting that certain species such as Pels Fishing Owl and Bat Hawk were possibilities (schwing). A price with Baba was agreed for £210 each for 8 days which included all transport, accommodation, food and 2 creek crawls at Tendaba. There was an added incentive for him of an extra £10 for any of the named birds being seen. These being Pels Fishing Owl, Bat Hawk, African Finfoot. None of these were going to be easy but all apparently were POSSIBLE to see, the emphasis on possible meaning 1 in 1000 chance. Unsurprisingly none of these were seen.
£150 was paid as deposit for his services and for booking of upriver accommodations and the rest was paid during the trip itself. His ability on the Gambian birds was very good and would certainly be recommended for an upriver trip with perhaps excursions to Brufut / Tanji but doing the areas around the hotels can be just as rewarding by going alone. He has several sites upriver and on the north bank that provided us with several good species and he knows all the calls. He is recommended as amongst the best of the bird guides in The Gambia but be prepared for the Gambian way of doing things, getting from A to B via the rest of the alphabet and in no particular order. He can be contacted by fax: 00220 465544.
Weather:
Generally was hot rather than humid with pleasant temperatures in the evenings. There was a few days that were overcast, giving rest bite from the scorching sun but this can be deceptive so don't lapse on the water intake. Upriver the evenings and early mornings can be a bit on the chilly side and jumper is suggested. During the day the temperatures can be higher than on the coast with no sea breezes blowing in. The average temperature was probably around 85 - 90 on the coast and 90 - 95ish inland.