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Trip participants: Mark Baynes, James Gilroy, Alex Lees, Ilya McLean, Richard Moores, Simon Mahood and Stuart Piner
Just prior to Christmas 2003, whilst at a university drinks outing, James Gilroy informed me he was planning a Spanish trip in early 2004, and asked me if I would like to be on the team. Having only ever lifted my bins outside Britain on one previous occasion I jumped at the chance to give my Western Palaearctic list a much needed kick start and hopefully gain some vital experience with potential British vagrants.
In the weeks leading up to the 5 day trip, the internet was scoured for relevant trip reports, which gave essential information on where to find our target species. The trip report of Chris Batty, Richard Bonser, Kieran Foster and Andy Holden's trip in June/July 1999 proved most useful, and Dave Gosney's 'Finding Birds in Northern and Southern Spain' guides, 'A Birdwatching Guide to Extremadura' by John Muddeman were also essential reading. The Collins Bird Guide and a bird-sounds CD were also vital tools.
The flights were booked through Easyjet for a very reasonable £32 return. Two hire cars were booked through Eurocar for £135 each, which we picked up immediately from Bilbao airport. The whole trip cost £118 per person including flights, car hire, parking and accommodation. We mainly ate on the move so food costs were minimal.
The weather was generally poor throughout the trip, with frequent rains and fog. Temperatures seldom rose above about 5ºC, even on the lowland plains, whilst night-time temperatures often dropped to below -8ºC. Snow covered most hilly areas to the north of Madrid, with deep falls (2ft+) on upper parts of the Picos. A good-quality sleeping bag was essential during the cold nights!
Itinerary
Friday 20th
Flew from Stanstead to Bilbao, arriving mid morning. Drove to Fuente De in the Picos de Europa Mountains and birded around Parador Hotel before taking cable car further into mountains. After feeding both ourselves and Alpine Chough with a large slice of lemon cake we retreated to bottom on cable car. We then headed back towards Bilbao, stopping at various points between the hotel and the town of Potes. We then drove to La Lomanza, a prime tussock-steppe site lying south-east of Zaragoza and 15km NE of Belchite. We camped in reserve car park, which is just beyond the Km 18 sign on the road heading north from Belchite.
Saturday 21st
We awoke before dawn and birded around the area on both sides of the road at La Lomanza. Dense fog, wind and cold temperatures hampered viewing throughout. We left the area just prior to midday and headed to the plains of Torres de la Alameda, just west of Madrid. We left this area at dusk and drove to La Serena Crane Watchpoint, arriving in the early hours of Sunday morning. We camped by a remote track c500m from the crane watchpoint.
Sunday 22nd
We left the crane watchpoint soon after dawn and headed for the plains of La Serena nearby. The majority of the day's birding was done from the car, and we covered many kilometres scouring the plains and agricultural fields. By mid afternoon we began to head to Monfrague National Park, stopping at various points along the way, either to gain trip ticks or throw rotten oranges at each other which laid by the road side. We arrived at Monfrague just before dusk and after a 30-minute stop at the Penafalcon we retired to a chalet in the Monfague caravan park. The chalet cost 40 euros for 4 people and the 3 others were able to crash on the floor. A well earned meal was eaten in the camp restaurant. Hot water and a bed regenerated energy levels for the rest of the trip.
Monday 23rd
After a good nights sleep we spent the morning travelling around Monfrague, stopping at various miradors. The afternoon was spent in the Sierra de San Pedro to the south-west of Caceres. Again most birding was done from the car in extremely poor weather conditions. After dark we began to head back to Bilbao, camping in deep snow just north of Madrid.
Tuesday 24th
We slowly made our way back to Bilbao throughout the day arriving at the airport just before dusk, arriving back at Stanstead at 10.30pm
Information on where and how we saw the key species follows along with a full systematic trip list.
Species Information
Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
Seen at many locations on every day of the trip, often in good numbers.
Monk Vulture Aegypius monachus
Common at Monfrague NP, seen both well in flight and sat on rocky cliffs.
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
The first was seen in the La Serena area as we were watching 4 Lesser Kestrels, Black-bellied Sandgrouse and Great Bustard. Several further individuals were seen at Monfrague NP, both in flight and on the deck.
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
A pair seen well from the roadside between Zorita and Trujillo on day three.
Osprey Pandion haliaetos
One flew over the crane watchpoint 9km east of Castuera off the C420 in the La Serena area.
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
One was seen from the road between Potes and Fuente De in the Picos de Europa mountains on day 1.
Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti
After unsuccessfully searching all morning on day 4 in Monfrague NP for Spanish Imperial Eagle, we headed for the Sierra de San Pedro area, west of Caceres. Heavy rain prevailed, making raptor-spotting near impossible, and we failed to connect through the majority of the afternoon. Morale was beginning to implode as we faced the prospect of missing our most important target species (and the only one we all needed for life). With a major dip impending and just 2 miles of good habitat left on the road between Alburquerque and Herreruela, AL and RM impressively picked out an Aquila sp. on the top of a tree to the right of the road. AL jumped out of the car and confirmed we'd found our quarry. The bird allowed a relatively close approach as it sat impassively on the hillside in the heavy rain. It seemed impervious to our presence, and eventually went to sleep. As we left we noticed an information board stationed where we had left the cars, which had emblazoned on it a large picture of Spanish Imperial Eagle. Birders would do well to pay attention to public information signs when birding in Spain - they always seem to be impeccably placed.
Bonelli's Eagle Heiraetus fasciatus
The first (an immature) was seen briefly on the plains at La Serena, but luckily a further two adults were seen well in a kettle of vultures/kites by the monastery at Monfrague next day.
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Up to four, including one fine adult male, were seen well in fields on the eastern side of La Serena. Others were seen elsewhere on the La Serena plains and on wires just outside of Caceres city.
Great Bustard Otis tarda
141 birds were seen in one flock at Torres de la Alameda, north west of Madrid. Many of these birds were wing-tagged and, although quite distant, they indulged in some impressive "foam-bath" display. Many more "G-units" were seen scattered around the La Serena area next day.
Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
One was seen by SM only in foggy conditions at La Lomanza. Several groups of 20+ birds were seen in the La Serena area next day. They proved more elusive than initially anticipated, often hiding in tall vegetation. We found the best strategy was to watch for birds in flight, and then scour the vegetation around where they landed. Eventually reasonable views were obtained.
Crane Grus grus
Common throughout steppe and dehesa habitats. Surprisingly approachable. Early morning at the La Serena Crane watchpoint produced excellent views of c. 500 flying from their roost site on the plains to the adjacent dehesa.
Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus
One was seen in flight whilst watching Little Bustards at La Serena.
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
The first were seen from a gravel track parallel to the Great Bustard site at Torres de la Alameda. These were seen poorly on the deck as daylight began to fade. Many scattered flocks were seen in the La Serena area but were very wary and always seen in flight rather than on the ground.
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata
Several were heard calling overhead at La Lomanza in thick fog. A flock of c50 showed very well from a dirt track on the eastern side of the La Serena area next day. It was essential to view from the car to prevent flushing them. A second flock of similar size was again seen at close range feeding in fields on the other side of La Serena, south of Campanario - a definite trip highlight. Various other small flocks were seen in flight around the La Serena plains.
Eagle Owl Bubo bubo
One was seen at dusk on day three, just after our arrival at Monfrague NP. After a 20-minute wait at the Penafalcon, one bird landed on a tree at the very top of the rock. As darkness fell it flew off into the gloom. We viewed the Penafalcon from the bridge that crosses the river (site 3 on page 28 of Gosney).
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
One was seen from the roadside north of Caceres. Two were seen very well in Trujillo village as we stopped for coffee and chocolate donuts to celebrate seeing Spanish Imperial Eagle. The birds often flew low along the street, beautifully displaying their salient features against the pale stone buildings.
Sharpe's Woodpecker Picus (viridis) sharpei
One was seen in flight from the car on day 2 and another was heard whilst watching Great Bustards at Torres de la Alameda. Proper views were finally obtained on the last day when RM located a bird in riverside trees close to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, in the Sierra de la Demanda near Burgos. A highly distinctive form.
Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocops media
Two were whistled in during a random stop in beech-scrub woodland along the road between Fuente De and Potes during the evening of day 1. Reasonable views were obtained in a tall beech tree before the birds moved off.
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens
Common at La Lomanza.
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra
A common bird at most lowland locations. Birds were seen well both stationary and in display flight. The highlight of the trip for some occurred when a Common Kestrel chased a Calandra Lark under our car. The bird was obviously shocked, but the healing hands of AL kept the bird alive and eventually it was placed back on the ground. When we later drove past the same spot the bird was still there. It was presumed dead until JG and I approached, prompting the bird to fly off strongly. Evidently it was only in shock and just needed a little prompting to snap out of its trance. Superb!
Dupont's Lark Chersophilus duponti
5 were seen at La Lomanza. From the village of Belchite take the minor road to Codo (Z306) of the A222 and then carry on for a further 10km and use the reserve car park on your left.
Birds began singing well before dawn but visibility was down to 10m due to dense fog. All 7 of us waited in a line together but we failed to flush any birds. The team effort soon disbanded and everyone spent the next 3+ hours searching on their own. Luckily everyone saw the birds after a frustrating period of stalking intermittently singing birds. RM was the first to connect, then later MB, IM and I flushed two birds at close range after a prolonged stalk, which were also seen very fortuitously by a late-arriving JG. Elsewhere, AL and SM managed to get two birds at close quarters on a gravel track. Another trip highlight.
Crag Martin Ptynoprogne rupestris
Commonly seen in all habitats.
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
First seen at La Serena, but common around Monfrague and Caceres.
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
MB located a couple on rocks at a random roadside stop around the village of La Hoz de la Vieja, between Belchite and Montalban on day two.
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura
IM found one on the roadside close to Montalban, south of Belchite.
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicilliata
Two individuals were seen by AL and RM at La Lomanza (see Dupont's Lark directions).
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria
One was seen at the top of the chairlift at Fuente De in the Picos de Europa Mountains. After unsuccessfully searching for the bird reported to be wintering around the Parador Hotel (see Birding World vol.16 no.11) we decided to try our luck at a higher altitude. Our luck was in. Soon after arriving RM gave an elated shout as a Wallcreeper flew towards us and around the corner of the café. The bird was later seen well on the wall of the ski-lift building, though the encounter was all too brief. A fantastic moment so early in the trip! Fuenta De is reached via the town of Potes, off the N621 c2 hours west of Bilbao.
Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cyanea
A common bird anywhere south-west of Madrid. Many were seen, sometimes in large flocks.
Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
Common in Monfrague National Park
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia
Common around agricultural developments in flatter areas.
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
Common in most areas in the presence of rocks.
Major Dips
Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Failed to find this species at Monfrague. Not sure if time of year is a factor there.
Dotterel Charadrius morinellus
Vague hopes of finding this species at La Serena were not realised.
Scops Owl Otus otus
Perhaps too early for birds to be calling.
Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius
A couple of stops in vaguely suitable habitat in the Picos failed, unsurprisingly, to produce this species.
Great-spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
Always elusive, but still a surprising miss.
Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
The majority probably spend the coldest parts of the winter in coastal regions. Needed to have spent more time looking at rocks.
Snow Finch Montifringilla nivalis
No joy with this species around Fuente De. Perhaps the heavy snowfall had pushed them to lower altitudes.
Systematic list
Eurasian Wigeon Mareca penelope
Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
Common Teal Anas crecca
Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
Great Cormorant Phalocrocorax carbo
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus
Red Kite Milvus milvus
Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus
Eurasian Black Vulture Aegypius monachus
Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus
Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti
Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos
Bonelli's Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Merlin Falco columbarius
Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
Common Crane Grus grus
Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
Great Bustard Otis tarda
Stone-curlew Burhinus oedicnemus
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
European Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria
Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Common Gull Larus canus
Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus graellsii
Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis
Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse Pterocles alchata
Rock Dove Columba livia
Stock Dove Columba oenas
Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus
Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Barn Owl Tyto alba
Eurasian Eagle Owl Bubo bubo
Tawny Owl Strix aluco
Common Swift Apus apus
Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
Iberian Green Woodpecker Picus sharpei
Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major
Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius
Dupont's Lark Chersophilus duponti
Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra
Lesser Short-toed Lark Calandrella rufescens
Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
Wood Lark Lullula arborea
Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
Sand Martin Riparia riparia
Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Common House Martin Delichon urbica
Meadow Pipit Anthus pratensis
Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
White Wagtail Motacilla alba
Pied Wagtail Motacilla yarrellii
White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus
Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Dunnock Prunella modularis
Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
European Robin Erithacus rubecula
Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola
Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
Black Wheatear Oenanthe leucura
Common Blackbird Turdus merula
Fieldfare Turdus pilaris
Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
Redwing Turdus iliacus
Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Dartford Warbler Sylvia undata
Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata
Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla
Northern Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus
Goldcrest Regulus regulus
Firecrest Regulus ignicapilla
Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Marsh Tit Parus palustris
Crested Tit Parus cristatus
Coal Tit Parus ater
Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Great Tit Parus major
Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea
Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria
Eurasian Treecreeper Certhia familiaris
Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla
Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis
Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius
Iberian Azure-winged Magpie Cyanopica cooki
Common Magpie Pica pica
Alpine Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus
Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
Western Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Rook Corvus frugilegus
Carrion Crow Corvus corone
Common Raven Corvus corax
Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris
Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Rock Sparrow Petronia petronia
Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
European Serin Serinus serinus
European Greenfinch Chloris chloris
European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
Common Linnet Carduelis cannabina
Hawfinch Coccothraustes coccothraustes
Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella
Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
Rock Bunting Emberiza cia
Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus
Corn Bunting Emberiza calandra
Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild