In early 2002, taking advantage of some ludicrously cheap airfares, four of us spent three weeks in Argentina. We started in the south, as within a few weeks most species would have migrated out of the area and finished in the tropical north near the Brazilian border.
Argentina is a vast and varied country; impossible to do justice to in such a short visit. We therefore decided to concentrate on a few key areas which would be of most interest to the whole group: thus we included the Moreno glacier and Iguazu in preference to time in the north-west of the country. Although I was initially the only keen birder, shortly into the trip it became apparent that everyone was enjoying drumming on dead trees to attract Magellanic Woodpeckers and creeping along the paths at Iguazu in the hope of finding toucans or a Margay.
Time constraints meant air travel was the only real option. We bought multi-flight airpasses with Aerolineas Argentina and added the Rio Gallegos leg c/o Southern Winds. We found all flights to be clean, punctual and comfortable.
Within Patagonia we decided on car hire as the only way to see the areas we wanted to visit. We hired in RG: this car took us to Moreno and back along some pretty rough roads. Likewise, the Vd car (booked in TdF) got us our money's worth. Traffic, however, is generally light out of the cities and the roads are actually not bad provided you drive carefully and keep your speed down. Four wheel drive is not necessary for the sites we visited.
We managed to fly to Argentina a few weeks after the currency was devalued. This meant that instead of 1 peso: 1 US$, the exchange rate on arrival was nearer 2:1. By the time we left, the exchange rate had deteriorated further in the tourists' favour. Hotels and restaurants were excellent value, and our cash went much further than expected. We used mostly US$ cash, which we exchanged in the major centres, but travellers' cheques were also accepted.
A carnivore's heaven! We had no problems finding good cheap places to eat well. The tenedor libres are good value, with huge hunks of every meat imaginable. Vegetarians might have more trouble. In TdF, the local crab is superb.
Argentina is a magnificent country, with friendly people and an efficient infrastructure. BA is a city I would love to visit again.
The Moreno glacier is incredible: we sat transfixed for hours. Likewise, Iguazu falls are on an amazing scale.
Bird highlights included Magellanic Woodpecker, Spectacled Duck, Band-tailed Earthcreeper, Tufted Antshrike, Giant Wood-Rail and many many more. The seal colonies in U and Vd were also spectacular but the mammal highlight was the Margay seen at Ig.
Most of the planning was done via the internet and previous trip reports. However, I thoroughly recommend Sergio Corbet, a birding pal member based in BA. He helped pre-book hotels, and also took me birding in BA. He also gave us tips on where to find the best tenedor libre in BA!
Any trip covering such a large area in such a short time will have missing species on the final tally. However, I was surprised how well we did with most target species. The following are birds I really wanted to see that slipped the net.
Hooded Grebe: the original site was dry, as has often been reported before. Other sites are far to the north.
White-bellied Seedsnipe: the Martial glacier did not deliver.
Magellanic Plover: I tried repeatedly at EC.
Black-fronted Piping-Guan: multiple attempts specifically for this bird at Ig drew blanks.
Patagonian Conure: a breeding colony seen on Vd, with droppings around the nest holes, but no birds.
Tapaculos: no singing birds in Patagonia or Ig.
All the above are minor gripes when compared to the species that were seen. I was particularly surprised by the mammal list.
Arrived at Gatwick to find that our British Airwayhs flight to Buenos Aires had been cancelled without our knowledge and we had been bumped onto the following day's flight. The BA staff were particularly rude and difficult, suggesting repeatedly that we had all received letters and must have ignored them: this presumably applied to all four of us along with the other BA passengers who were likewise marooned in an empty departure lounge!
Overnight flight to Buenos Aires: the excellent air crew made up for the problems yesterday. Raced across town to the domestic airport and caught connecting flight to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego. Incredible approach to the town, with a backdrop of glaciers and Chile! Caught a taxi into town and checked in at Hostal del Bosques. Initial exploration produced the commoner birds although most sketch maps showed a good area for shoreline birds which is now a military airbase.
Caught a remis to the Martial Glacier where we used the chairlift to reach the base of the walk to the glacier itself. Spectacular scenery and easy walking, although a complete lack of seedsnipe. 2 Yellow-bridled Finches were ample compensation, even though the perched views were distant. In the afternoon, I visited the rubbish dump to the east of town. Here, 12 White-throated Caracaras gave close views.
Easy morning then a six hour cruise along the Beagle Channel. Huge numbers of seabirds, although lower diversity than expected. An excellent penguin colony, with the boat almost beaching to give prolonged views of Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins.
Early start to the Tierra del Fuego NP close to town. Yet again, stunning scenery with extensive Nothofagus forests and lots of water. Double-tapping on trunks for Magellanic Woodpeckers produced no response, although one brief distant call was heard. Highlights included excellent views of Spectacled Duck on the lake in front of the visitors' centre and almost having to prise Rayaditos off our bags they were so tame.
Returned to try again for woodpeckers. Today, got a response almost immediately with 2 males and a female flying in very close and giving crippling views. Both tapping and the tape excited them further. Indeed, even an hour later, every time I moved, they followed. At one point, I reached a small brow to find the female feeding on a fallen tree a few feet away. One of the birds of the trip. Other birds including some nice White-throated Treerunners and large flocks of ridiculously inquisitive Thorn-tailed Rayaditos. Any noise again sent these wild with curiosity, coming to within a foot or so and scrutinising me. Afternoon flight to Rio Gallegos.
Picked up the hire car and started the long drive to El Calafate. Despite the pot holes and general loose gravel, progress remarkably steady and little traffic. The first stop produced Greater Rhea and Scale-throated Earthcreeper; later, huge swirling flocks of Least Seedsnipe shot low across the road. The Hooded Grebe site was bone-dry with only a few seedsnipe present. Found a hotel and then investigated Laguna Nimes, a reserve just north of the town. This site was full of birds, with plenty of wildfowl including close-ups of delicately-marked Red Shovelers and a lovely Rufous-chested Dotterel on the beach.
Another drive on poor roads, although again better than expected. Reached the Moreno Glacier late morning, due to several stops which produced a large flock of Austral Parakeets in tree along the road and a Black-chested Buzzard-eagle carrying a dead rabbit which landed above the car. The various viewpoints around the glacier produced Green-backed Firecrown, Austral Blackbird and Chilean Hawk, but the glacier itself was awesome. We all stood transfixed for several hours, watching house-sized chunks of ice toppling from the front of the ice into the water. Amazing! As a result, we had no time for forest birding, but the forest here looks excellent.
Return to Rio Gallegos. The grebe site was again deserted although lots of seedsnipe and hunting Peregrine and Aplomado Falcons, both giving perched close views.
Flew to Trelew via Ushuaia. Late arrival meant we checked into Trelew rather than the initial plan of driving north. Hotel Gallancia excellent value for money.
Drove to Punta Tumbo. The various sketch maps all proved inaccurate, and we worried for some km that we had missed the turn-off, especially as there was nowhere to stop for directions. Picked up the gravel road eventually and followed it to the well-organised visitors' centre, picking up Tawny-throated Dotterel and Carbonated Sierra-finch en route. The Magellanic penguin colony itself was very impressive, with many birds allowing a very close approach. Two pairs of the very local Chubut Steamer-Duck proved the most distinctive of the three species seen so far of this genus. Leaving the colony, I checked behind the visitors' centre while the others stocked up on empenadas: this proved a wise move with small flocks of birds everywhere, including Sierra-finches and Diuca-finch.
Dawn start for the drive to Valdes. Distances here can be misleading, but the roads are suprisingly good considering many are unmetalled. We stopped in a couple of places, and checked likely looking patches of habitat. This tactic produced the strange Band-tailed Earthcreeper, as well as a variety of Canasteros and two White-throated Cachalotes. Again, birds took second place in the afternoon when we spent several hours watching two female Orcas hunting sealion pups along the beach at Punta Norte. When one beached itself for a pup, all 30 or so gathered people went silent: you could almost hear the hairs rising on the backs of everyone's necks.
Returned our hire car and flew to BA, where checked into the Hotel Phoenix: I cannot rate this hotel highly enough. Met Sergio Corbet and set off for the Costanera Sur. Unfortunately, due to 'rain' the reserve was shut, as it was throughout my stay. This was to preserve the paths, allegedly, but the many guards gave the impression that it was more to preserve their card-games. Despite this disappointment, we picked up many new birds along the nearby canal, including both Cardinals, a beautiful close Plumbeous Rail and a variety of parrots.
Spent the day again with Sergio, birding north of the city, including Otomendi reserve and finishing at an area of wet marsh. Although the early part of the day was slow, there were many birds in the flooded fields including some stunning Long-winged Harriers, a pair of Yellow-rumped Marshbirds and a single Straight-billed Reedhaunter. The highlight for me was a beautiful Giant Woodrail strolling through a sedgy pasture right next to the road, just before dusk and a storm hit us.
Flight to Iguazu, where it rapidly became apparent that there was lots to pack into our short time here. The falls are amazing from the air, really emphasizing the shape of the gorge. An exploratory walk along the Macuco trail produced a lovely Dusky-legged Guan, Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant and Grey-necked Wood-Rail.
Out at dawn. One of the first birds of the day was a Grey-fronted Dove flushing repeated short distances along the path in front of me. Rounding a corner, I was staggered to see a Margay bolt out of the path-side vegetation after the dove and then stand nonchanantly in front of me. I took this as a good omen and indeed a perched male Blue Ground-Dove, 7 Reddish-bellied Conures, 2 Pileated Parrots and a stunning Tufted Antshrike followed. Incredibly hot after 10am, so sight-seeing around the falls.
Walked the Yacaratia trail at dawn, A Muscovy Duck went over the road at first light, and a Slaty-breasted Rail started the day nicely. Too many excellent birds to list, but one of the best was a male Chestnut-headed Tanager and a Bertoni's Antbird in rapid succession. Red-breasted Toucans at a cecropia tree were also nice.
Again, the day started well with Rusty-margined Guan at dawn, Tayra shortly afterwards and lots of flocks.
Another feature today were woodpeckers with Blond-crested (wow), Lineated (here without pale braces) and a male Helmeted. Plenty of small birds, including a nice male Blackish-blue Seedeater and a delightful Rufous Gnateater.
A final dawn walk, but plenty of new birds. Three Pauraques were on the road today, flashing white in flight. A nice White-necked Thrush was strikingly different to birds I have seen in Colombia. Back to BA in the afternoon.
Sight-seeing, including the famous Casa Rosada. Fitted in a quick stroll along the front of Costanera Sur, but surpisingly fewer birds there today.
In the following list, abbreviations are used for most sites:
BA Buenos Aires
CS Costanera Sur
TdF Tierra del Fuego
RG Rio Gallegos
EC El Calafate
LN Laguna Nimes
Vd Peninsula del Valdes
PN Punta Norte
PT Punta Tumbo
SPECIES LIST (BIRDS)
Greater Rhea Rhea americana
3/3/02: total of c25 birds. All just outside RG on road to EC.
Lesser Rhea Rhea pennata
Small groups of up to 20 along RG-EC road; several on Vd. 7/3/02: several excellent birds at PT, some v close and unconcerned.
Spotted Nothura Nothura maculosa
7/3/02: 2+ along road to PT. 8/3/02: few on Vd.
Elegant Crested Tinamou Eudromia elegans
Common along road to PT and abundant on Vd.
Gentoo Pygoscelis papua
28/2/02: 10 or so breeding amongst Magellanics, Beagle channel. Watched in courtship display, circling each other and lowering heads.
Magellanic Penguin Sphenicus magellanicus
Large colony visited on the Beagle channel. PT colony impressive and amazing close views. Loafing birds on sea and beaches at point.
Pied-billed Grebe Podylimbus podiceps
9+16/3/02: Common at CS.
White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland
3/3/02: breeding plumage adult, LN. 4/3/02: 1, Moreno. 7/3/02: 50+, Trelew. 9+16/3/02: large numbers at CS.
Great Grebe Podiceps major
Some excellent adults close to shore, at U, PT and Vd. Also Trelew (1).
Silvery Grebe P. occipitalis
27/2/02: 1 on sea, U. 3/3/02: 4 at LN. 7/3/02: 1, Trelew. 9/3/02: 1 at CS.
Black-browed Albatross Thalassarche melanophris
1 from the plane coming in to U and many birds on the Beagle channel. Large groups on the water.
Antarctic Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus
mall numbers on the Beagle channel. Also present at PT, where gliding low over view-point and amongst the seal colonies on Vd.
Hall's Giant Petrel M. halli
8/3/02: single immature on beach at PN, Vd.
White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis
28/2/02: 1 from boat, Beagle channel.
Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
Commonest medium-sized tubenose on the Beagle channel.
Magellanic Diving-Petrel Pelecanoides magellani
28/2/02: 6 from boat, including several on the water. Very distinctive white half-collar.
Olivaceous Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
28/2/02: 5+ on Beagle channel. Small numbers also at Vd, CS and Ig.
Rock Cormorant P. magellanicus
28/2/02: small breeding groups on rocky ledges along the Beagle channel.
Guanay Cormorant P. bougainvillii
28/2/02: 1 bird close to boat, Beagle channel.
Imperial Cormorant P. atriceps
Small numbers on Ush seafront; large colonies seen on Beagle channel. Small numbers at PT.
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
12/3/02: male over falls, Ig. 14/3/02L 4 over falls, Ig.
Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix
10/3/02: 2 in wet grassland north of BA.
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
16/3/02: 1, CS.
Great Egret A. alba
BA, Vd, CS, Ig.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
CS, BA, Ig.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
6 at Moreno, 4 at PT, common in north and BA.
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
9+16/3/02: CS. Also Ig, including 1 feeding above devil's throat.
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
4+ regular on rocky shore, U. Smaller numbers at CS and beneath falls at Ig.
Rufescent Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum
9/3/02: immature at CS. 16/3/02: 2 immatures, CS.
Black-faced Ibis Theristicus melanopis
26/2/02: 5 over hotel, U. 1/3/02: 2 over road, U. 3/3/02: 2 from car near RG. Small groups frequent in EC, including on the hotel lawns.
Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus
10/3/02: 10+ in flooded fields north of BA. Distinctive birds.
White-faced Ibis Plegadis chihi
9/3/02: 20+ in small groups at CS. Many confiding. 10/3/02: a few with Bare-faced Ibises north of BA. 16/3/02: 6, CS.
Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja
9/3/02: 7 at CS.
Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis
3/3/02: 2, LN. 4/3/02: 2, LN. 5/3/02: 7, LN. 8/3/02: 200+ Isla de los Pajeros.
Fulvous Tree-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor
9+16/3/02: 1, CS.
White-faced Tree-Duck D. viduata
9/3/02: 3, CS. 16/3/02: pair with 4 young ducklings. Further flock of 8. CS.
Black-necked Swan Cygnus melanocorypha
The commoner swan at LN. 1 bird north of BA.
Coscoroba Swan Coscoroba coscoroba
Small numbers at LN. Larger groups seen at CS and Trelew (23).
Upland Goose Chloephaga picta
The commonest shelgoose in the South.
Kelp Goose C. hybrida
Common on the seafront in U. Some excellent views of groups of up to 10 birds.
Ashy-headed Goose C. poliocephala
2/3/02: 5 in area of long reeds behind Lago Roca. 3/3/02: several pairs with up to 4 fledged young, LN. 4+5/3/02: 20+.
Flightless Steamer-Duck Tachyeres pteneres
26/2/02: 5 on seafront, U.
White-headed Steamer-Duck T. leucocephalus
7/3/02: close pair hauled out on shingle at view-point, PT. More distant pair also on sea.
Flying Steamer-Duck T. patachonicus
27/2/02: 7 at the airbase, U. 2/3/02: 2 on Lago Roca.
Steamer-Duck Tachyeres sp.
200+ on Beagle channel.
Muscovy Duck Carina moschata
13/3/02: 1 low overhead at dawn while walking to start of yacaratia trail, Ig.
Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis
10/3/02: pair in flight north of BA.
Chiloe Wigeon Anas sibilatrix
2/3/02: 3 on Lago Roca. Small numbers at LN. 7/3/02: 10, Trelew.
Speckled Teal A. flavirostris
Small flocks on tidal pool, U. 5 on Lago Roca. 20+ on each visit to LN. Also CS.
Spectacled Duck A. specularis
1/3/02: 7 on Lago Roca, TdF NP. Excellent prolonged views on water and in flight. Stunning birds. 2/3/02: 6 pairs in same spot. Many displaying in sun by raising head and extending tail.
Crested Duck A. specularoides
The common duck on the sea at U. Also at TdF NP, Moreno, LN, RG, Vd.
Yellow-billed Pintail A. georgica.
27/2/02: 1 with Speckled Teal, U. 10+ at LN. Also Trelew and CS.
Silver Teal A. versicolor
9/3/02: 20+ at CS.
Red Shoveler A. platalea
3/3/02: Common at LN, with groups of up to 12 birds together. Smart. 4/3/02: 100+ at LN.
Rosybill Netta peposaca
7/3/02: male, Trelew. Common at CS.
Black-headed Duck Heteronetta atricapilla
9/3/02: single male at CS.
Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea
Abundant at LN.
Lake Duck O. vittata
Scarce at LN. Common at CS.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
28/2/02: 2 over U. 7/3/02: 12 over road to PT. Also seen on Vd and Ig.
Andean Condor Vultur gryphus
4/3/02: 4-5 at Moreno, including stunning male low over viewing platform at glacier. 5/3/02: 3+ along road out of EC. Some great views of birds alongside moving car.
Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis
9/3/02: 1, CS. 10/3/02: 3 adults, north of BA.
Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni
10/3/02: 5+ superb adults in relatively small area of wet grassland near Otomendi reserve. Some excellent males.
Cinereous Harrier C. cinereus
3/3/02: 2 singles from car. Abundant and conspicuous at LN, with many giving excellent fly-bys. Birds with prey harassed repeatedly by Chimangos.
Grey-bellied Goshawk Accipiter poliogaster
15/3/02: single bird low over canopy, macuco trail.
Chilean Hawk A. chilensis
4/3/02: young bird mobbed persistently by US Kestrel over forest to right of glacier.
Harris' Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus
7/3/02: young bird perched near road to PT.
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus
27/2/02: adult and immature at rubbish dump, U. Both perched, giving good views. 28/2/02: 1 from bus near U. 4/3/02: 2, including stunning adult in dead tree close to road and holding dead rabbit. 7/3/02: adult, PT.
Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
9/3/02: 1 perched, CS. 10/3/02: 10+ near Otomendi. 12/3/02: 1, Ig. 15/3/02: 1, Ig.
Variable Hawk B. polyosoma
7/3/02: perched adult, PT. 8/3/02: ad on telegraph pole, Vd.
White-throated Caracara Phalcobaenus albogularis
27/2/02: 12 seen easily and well at the rubbish dump east of U. All full adults except 1 young bird and 1 subadult.
(Southern) Crested Caracara Caracara plancus
Common in many sites: eg rubbish tip, U. 30+ in trees at one stop, early morning, Moreno.
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
Occasional birds at Ig.
Chimango Caracara M. chimang
Common throughout except Ig.
American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Aplomado Falcon F. femoralis
5/3/02: single bird in flight then perched on fence at Laguna los Escarchados.
Peregrine F. peregrinus
5/3/02: young bird with Least Seedsnipe at Laguna los Escarchados. 16/3/02: adult over BA.
Rusty-margined Guan Penelope superciliaris
14/3/02: 2 flushed from near ground, entrance to yacaratia trail, Ig.
Dusky-legged Guan P. obscura
11/3/02: excellent bird perched low over trail, Ig. 14/3/02: 1 at dawn near CIES station, Ig.
Grey-necked Wood-Rail Aramides cajanea
11/3/02: 1 at forest-edge behind generator on way back to hotel, Ig.
Giant Wood-Rail A. ypecaha
9/3/02: heard at CS. 10/3/02: stunning adult close to road in sedgy field-corner, near Otomendi.
Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail A. saracura
13/3/02: 1 at start of yacaratua trail at dawn. Feeding along pathside puddles. 15/3/02: 2 in same area: 1 flushed into a brief frantic flight for cover.
Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanuguinolentus
9/3/02: crippling views from a few feet at CS in reeds at east end of main road.
Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Spot-flanked Gallinule G. melanops
White-winged Coot Fulica leucoptera
4/3/02: 15+ at LN. Overlooked previous day? Small frontal shield distinctive. 16/3/02: common, CS.
Red-gartered Coot F. armillata
3+4/3/02: abundant, LN.
Red-fronted Coot F. rufifrons
9+16/3/02: abundant at CS.
Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana
9/3/02: 5, CS. 16/3/02: 2, CS.
Magellanic Oystercatcher Haematopus leucopodus
Common around U in small numbers.
Blackish Oystercatcher H. ater
28/2/02: 4 small groups of 2-3 birds along rocky coastline of Beagle channel.
American Oystercatcher H. palliatus
6/3/02: 2, RG mudflats. 8/3/02: 100+ on flats at Isla de los Pajeros. 100+ Punto Norte, Vd.
White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus
Small numbers at LN, Trelew (10+) and CS.
Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis
Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus
8/3/02: 5, Isla de los Pajeros.
Rufous-chested Dotterel C. modestus
3/3/02: stunning adult on shore of Lago Argentino, just starting to come out of breeding plumage.
Tawny-throated Dotterel Oreopholus ruficollis
7/3/02: 2 fabulous individuals on a bare field opposite a farm on the gravel road to PT. Crippling views on ground. Presumed true pair as one bird significantly brighter than other.
South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica
27/2/02: 3+ in small marshy pool just west of causeway to military base, U. Good ground views. 3/3/02: 5+ at LN. 4/3/02: 10+, LN.
Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
4/3/02: 1, LN.
Lesser Yellowlegs T. flavipes
4/3/02: 1, LN.
White-rumped Sandpiper Calidris fuscicollis
The common small wader in the south.
Grey-breasted Seed-snipe Thinocorus orbignyianus
3/3/02: at least 1 definite across road. Difficult.
Least Seed-snipe T.rumicivorus
Abundant along the RG-EC road; often in swirling flocks of 100-200. Smaller numbers along PT road and on Vd. Some good views on the ground obtained from the car.
Snowy Sheathbill Chionis alba
28/2/02: 8 at the 1st sealion colony visited; a single bird at the penguin rookery.
Chilean Skua Catharacta chilensis
Regular at U. Common along the Beagle channel.
Brown Skua C. antarctica
Regular in the bay at U.
Skua Catharacta sp.
1 over Moreno glacier.
Dolphin Gull Larus scoresbii
This excellent species gave great views at U. Highly distinctive, including the dark immatures. Small numbers at PT and Vd.
Olrogs Gull L. atlanticus
8/3/02: an immature gull at Vd fitted this species.
Kelp Gull L. dominicanus
U, RG-EC, LN, PT.
Brown-hooded Gull L. maculipennis
Small numbers of nonbreeding birds at LN and Moreno. 30+ on estuary, RG. Also PT, Trelew, CS.
Cayenne Tern Sterna sandvicensis eurygnatha
8/3/02: 10+, Punto Norte, Vd.
Royal Tern S. maxima
8/3/02: 2 at Punto Norte, Vd.
South American Tern S. hirundinacea
Common and vocal, U. Some breeding colonies also, in Beagle channel. Others at PT and 1 at Vd.
Arctic Tern S. paradisaea
8/3/02: 1 at Punto Norte, Vd.
Rock Dove Columba livia
Picazuro Pigeon C. picazuro
9/3/02: abundant around CS and BA.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
BA, PT, Vd.
Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti
12/3/02: 4+ in grassy dry field, near station, Ig.
Picui Ground-Dove C. picui
Few at Vd, common in BA.
Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa
12/3/02: stunning male on macuco trail, giving detailed views.
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
10/3/02: 5+ near and in Otomendi.
Grey-fronted Dove L. rufaxilla
Small numbers at Ig, esp macuco trail.
Blue-crowned Conure Aratinga acuticaudata
2 escapes at CS.
White-eyed Conure A. leucophthalmus
3 escapes, CS. Common at Ig.
Nanday Conure Nandayus nenday
Several small flocks near CS.
Maroon-bellied Conure Pyrrhura frontalis
12/3/02: 7 past catwalk at devil's throat, Ig.
Austral Conure Enicognathus ferrugineus
1/3/02: 4 or 5 over road at TdF NP. Poor views. 4/3/02: 30+ at Buzzard-eagle stop, perched in trees over car and then in flight. Many at Moreno: noisy and acrobatic, sweeping past in tight flocks of 5-20 birds.
Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus
Abundant in BA. Many along front of CS, feeding on walls and benches.
Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius
Common at Ig.
Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri
Escapes near BA.
Pileated Parrot Pionopsitta pileata
12/3/02: pair over main falls, Ig.
Scaly-headed Pionus Pionus maximiliani
11/3/02: 2 overhead, Ig.
Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
13/3/02: 1 in mixed flock, Ig.
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Guira Cuckoo Guira guira
Common around BA.
Austral Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium nanum
1/3/02: 1 replying to a tape, TdF NP.
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
15/3/02: 3 on road to macuco trail from hotel, dawn.
Sooty Swift Cypsiloides fumigatus
13/3/02: 2 amongst Dusky Swifts, Ig.
Great Dusky Swift C. senex
Large impressive flocks over hotel in afternoon, and flying through falls to roost, Ig. Incredible acrobatics.
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
13/3/02: 1 easily picked out in vast swirls of Great Dusky Swifts over falls, Ig.
Scale-throated Hermit Phaethornis eurynome
15/3/02: 1 bathing in stream between macuco and yacaratia trails.
Planalto Hermit P. pretrei
14/3/02: 1 along path and 2nd in open understorey, Ig.
Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis
13/3/02: male perched alongside path, Ig.
Plovercrest Stephanoxis lalandi
13/3/02: female, yacaratia trail, Ig.
Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon aureoventris
Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis
15/3/02: female at flowers, Ig.
Gilded Sapphire Hylocharis chrysura
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi.
Green-backed Firecrown Sephaoides sephanoides
4/3/02: 1 at Fuschia magellanica in roadside gully, Moreno.
Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus
11/3/02: female, Ig.
Surucua Trogon T. surrucura
13/3/02: male along yacaratia trail. 14/3/02: 5+ along yacaratia trail.
Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata
13/3/02: male bird perched over main falls, Ig.
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
11/3/02: female at small stream between macuco and yacaratia trails. 12/3/02: female at main falls, Ig, hunting from catwalks.
Green Kingfisher C. americana
16/3/02: male on wall alongside CS, allowing approach to within a few feet.
Rufous-capped Motmot Baryphthengus ruficapillus
14-15/3/02: several calling at dawn at CIES and along yacaratia trail.
Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis
Several groups at Ig, including hotel grounds. Often noisy and conspicuous.
Red-breasted Toucan Ramphastos dicolorus
13/3/02: pair feeding on Cecropia trees along macuco trail.
Toco Toucan R. toco
Common at Ig.
Ochre-collared Piculet Picumnus temminckii
Common at Ig; present in many mixed species flocks. Often located by high-pitched buzzing calls.
Mottled Piculet P. nebulosus
14/3/02: 1 single piculet seen briefly along macuco trail in dense bamboo and understorey only fits this species.
White-spotted Woodpecker Veniliornis spilogaster
15/3/02: 1 with mixed flock, Ig.
Golden-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes melanolaimus
9/3/02: 3 feeding on grass with flickers, CS. Also seen at Otomendi.
Campo Flicker C. campestris
9/3/02: 2 excellent birds, CS: on ground in field at eastern end of reserve. 16/3/02: 2, CS.
Blond-crested Woodpecker Celeus flavescens
14/3/02: 2 excellent singles in mixed flocks along far end of yacaratia trail.
Helmeted Woodpecker Dryocopus galeatus
14/3/02: a very distinctive male low overhead feeding on large horizontal branch, yacaratia trail.
Lineated Woodpecker D. lineatus
14/3/02: male, yacaratia trail. Lacks pale 'braces' here.
Robust Woodpecker Campephilus robustus
13/3/02: excellent male along yacaratia trail.
Magellanic Woodpecker C. magellanicus
2/3/02: 3 awesome birds: immensely powerful and one of the trip highlights. 2 males and a female came in to a tape, then proceeded to drum,following me for the best part of an hour. Feeding unconcernedly, including (the female) briefly on a fallen tree a few feet away. Strangely absent in the same area the day before.
Common Miner Geositta cunicularia
5/3/02: 3 at Laguna los Escarchados.
Short-billed Miner G. antarctica
3/3/02: 1 on lakeshore, LN.
Scale-throated Earthcreeper Upucerthia dumetaria
3/3/02: 1 in shrubby gully shortly after leaving RG. 7/3/02: 1 singing on bushtop then running on ground within penguin colony, PT.
Band-tailed Earthcreeper Eremobius phoenicurus
8/3/02: rapid response to tape in patch of scrub with scattered bushes and open areas, 7km east of PM. Singing from prominent perch. A 2nd bird showed furtively later nearby.
Dark-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes patagonicus
Frequent along the shoreline in U. 1 on kelp mats, Beagle channel. Also Moreno.
Grey-flanked Cinclodes C. oustaleti
27/2/02: 1 at the Martial Glacier.
Bar-winged Cinclodes C. fuscus
Common at U and the Martial Glacier. 3 at LN. Also seen at Moreno.
Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus
Thorn-tailed Rayadito Aphrastura spinicauda
Abundant at TdF NP: by far the commonest and most conspicuous species there. Less common at Moreno, but little time spent by us in forest here. Incredibly confiding and responsive, coming to within a few feet.
Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura aegithaloides
8/3/02: 1 in bushes around carpark at Isla de los Pajeros.
Straight-billed Reedhaunter Limnornis rectirostris
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi. Low in bushes bordering reed bed.
Sulphur-bearded Spinetail Cranioleuca sulphurifera
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi.
Lesser Canastero Asthenes pyrrholeuca
8/3/02: rapid response to tape in scrub 7km east of PM.
Short-billed Canastero A. baeri
8/3/02: 1 in shrubby bushes on Vd.
Patagonian Canastero A. patagonica
8/3/02: single bird in scrub east of PM.
Cordilleran Canastero A. modesta
8/3/02: 1 in roadside scrub, Vd.
Hudson's Canastero A. hudsoni
10/3/02: single bird in roadside reedy dyke, north of BA.
White-throated Cachalote Pseudoseisura gutturalis
8/3/02: duetting pair in patch of scrub 7km east of PM.
White-throated Treerunner Pygarrhichas albogularis
2/3/02: 1 then a pair, all with Rayadito flocks. A really smart bird.
Buff-fronted Foliage-Gleaner Philydor rufus
Common at Ig.
Ochre-breasted Foliage-Gleaner P. lichtensteini
Small numbers, Ig.
Black-capped Foliage-Gleaner P. atricapillus
Frequent in small numbers, often with other foliage-gleaners, Ig.
White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner Automolus leucophthalmus
13/3/02: 1 low in foliage along yacaratia trail. 14/3/02: 2, yacaratia trail: again very low.15/3/02: 1, Ig.
Thrush-like Woodcreeper Dendrocincla turdina
Small numbers at Ig.
Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus
11/3/02: 1 at Ig. 13/3/02: 1, Ig. 15/3/02: 2, Ig.
White-throated Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes albicollis
13/3/02: 2 singles (possibly same bird) in loose mixed flocks, yacaratia trail.
Planalto Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes platyrostris
15/3/02: 1, Ig.
Scaled Woodcreeper Lepidocolpates squamatus
12/3/02: 1, macuco trail. 15/3/02: 1, Ig.
Lesser Woodcreeper L. fuscus
12/3/02: 1, macuco trail.
Tufted Antshrike Mackenziaena severa
12/3/02: crippling male came in to tape after frustrating glimpses of a female nearby. 14/3/02: female approaching quietly in dense understorey along macuco trail. Noticed by chance while crouched in thicket quietly watching mixed flock. A huge antbird.
Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens
Small numbers in mid storeys, Ig.
Plain Antvireo Dysithamus mentalis
Common by sight and voice, Ig.
Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus
12/3/02: male in mixed flock, macuco trail. 13/3/02: 1 in mixed flock, yacaratia trail.
Bertoni's Antbird Drymophila rubricollis
13/3/02: female low in pathside vegetation, then excellent pair coming in to tape, yacaratia trail.
Streak-capped Antwren Terenura maculata
12/3/02: female in mixed flock, macuco trail.
White-shouldered Fire-eye Pyriglena leucoptera
13/3/02: male in same area of dense forest edge bushes as Bertoni's Antbirds. Female later. 14/3/02: 2 separate males. 15/3/02: 2 males.
Short-tailed Ant-thrush Chamaeza campanisona
Common by voice, Ig.
Rufous Gnateater Conophaga lineata
14/3/02: singing bird low in bamboo thicket a few feet away, yacaratia trail.
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
An active lek part-way along the macuco trail, located by the birds' snapping and buzzing calls. Some good views of perched males.
Blue Manakin Chiroxiphia caudata
Small numbers at Ig, including a stunning male in dense bamboo on yacaratia trail and another in open canopy.
Grey Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps
14/3/02: several in mixed flocks, Ig.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
White-crested Elaenia E. albiceps
27/2/02: 1 at the Martial Glacier. 1/3/02: 2, TdF NP. 2/3/02: 1, TdF NP. 4/3/02: 3+, Moreno. 7/3/02: 1 dying bird on the ground at PT. Despatched promptly.
Lesser Elaenia E. chiriquensis
14/3/02: 1, Ig.
White-crested Tyrannulet Serpophaga subcristata
13/3/02: 1, Ig.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
4/3/02: 1 at Moreno viewpoint.
Grey-hooded Flycatcher Mionectes rufiventris
14/3/02: confiding bird in open area next to bridge linking macuco and yacaratia trails. A lovely flycatcher.
Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
15/3/02: 1, Ig.
Southern Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes eximius
14/3/02: single distainctive bird in understorey, yacaratia trail. Slow wing-raising.
Sao Paolo Tyrannulet P. paulistus
13/3/02: 1, macuco trail. 14/3/02: 1 close to path, yacaratia trail. 15/3/02: 3 separate birds.
Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet P. ventralis
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi. 14/3/02: total of 10+ during day, Ig.
Bay-ringed Tyrannulet P. sylviolus
13/3/02: several birds in mixed flocks, especially macuco trail. This one took a while to pin down: the jizz is very different to most tyrannids.
Planalto Tyrannulet Phyllomyias fasciatus
14/3/02: 1 dull bird, yacaratia trail.
Rough-legged Tyrannulet P. burmeisteri
13/3/02: 1, Ig. 14/3/02: 1, yacaratia trail.
Greenish Tyrannulet P. virescens
13/3/02: 1+, yacaratia trail. 14/3/02: 4+, yacaratia trail.
Eared Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis auricularis
13/3/02: 1 on low perch along macuco trail, Ig.
Drab-breasted Bamboo-Tyrant Hemitriccus diops
11/3/02: 1 in understorey, macuco trail, Ig.
Southern Antpipit Corythopis delalandi
Common by voice, especially macuco trail, and 1 bird tracked down well off path.
Russet-winged Spadebill Platyrinchus leucoryphus
15/3/02: 1, macuco trail, very low in understorey.
Euler's Flycatcher Lathrotriccus euleri
10/3/02: 1 from mirador, Otomendi.
Patagonian Tyrant Coloramphus parvirostris
1/3/02: 1 at TdF NP.
Fire-eyed Diucon Xolmis pyrope
1/3/02: single bird, TdF NP.
Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis microptera
8/3/02: 1 on bushtops, 7km east of PM.
Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola macloviana
Small numbers on grassy areas, U. Common at the Martial Glacier. Several groups at TdF NP.
Austral Negrito Lessonia rufa
Common to abundant at LN, smaller numbers elswhere in south but v scarce around U.
Blue-billed Black-Tyrant Knipolegus cyanirostris
10/3/02: 2 at Otomendi. Seemingly more crested than in Ridgely and Tudor, but no white in wing.
Spectacled Tyrant Hymenops perspicillatus
10/3/02: 3+ nice males near Otomendi in reeds.
Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus
Odd males high along yacaratia trail.
Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus
Sirystes Sirsytes sibilator
13/3/02: 1 high in emergent, yacaratia trail. 15/3/02: 1, macuco trail.
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
13/3/02: 3+, Ig.
Three-striped Flycatcher Conopias trivirgata
12/3/02: 2 in scrub bordering dried marsh, Ig.
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculates.
Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius
Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
Fork-tailed Flycatcher T. savana
13/3/02: smart adult in hotel grounds, Ig.
Greenish Schiffornis Schiffornis virescens
14/3/02: calling bird located down-slope from macuco trail. Others heard.
Crested Becard Pachyramphus validus
12/3/02: female, Ig. 13/3/02: male, Ig.
Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor
13/3/02: male, Ig.
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Grey-breasted Martin P. chalybea
9/3/02: 1, CS.
Southern Martin P. elegans
7/3/02: 2,1 at PT. All females. 8/3/02: 10-20 over roads of Vd.
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
12/3/02: 1, devil's throat, Ig.
White-rumped Swallow T. leucorrhoa
Small numbers, CS and BA.
Chilean Swallow T. meyeni
27/2/02: 3 over main street, U. 3/3/02: 5+ over LN. Also seen at PT, Vd.
Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
Seen at LN, Moreno, PT.
Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera
2/3/02: 3+ flushed repeatedly from wet sedges along banks of Lago Roca. 3+4/3/02: 5+ in grass at LN.
Short-billed Pipit A. furcatus
7/3/02: 1 along gravel road to PT.
Yellowish Pipit A. lutescens
12/3/02: 1, dry marsh, Ig.
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus
Patagonian Mockingbird M. patagonicus
Common at PT and Vd.
Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flavipes
12/3/02: a confusing though confiding female thrush fitted this species best. Macuco trail.
Eastern Slaty Thrush Turdus subalaris
14/3/02: surprisingly smart male perched above path, macuco trail.
Rufous-bellied Thrush T. rufiventris
BA, Otomendi, Ig.
Austral Thrush T. falcklandii
1+2/3/02: large numbers, including groups at fruiting trees, TdF NP. Several at stops along road to Moreno.
Pale-breasted Thrush T. leucomelas
Ig. Very common.
Creamy-bellied Thrush T. amaurochalinus
10/3/02: 3, Otomendi.
White-necked Thrush T. albicollis
15/3/02: nice adult perched over path. The subspecies here has prominent orangey flanks.
Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher Polioptila lactea
Scarce in mixed flocks, Ig.
Masked Gnatcatcher P. dumicola
10/3/02: 2, Otomendi.
Plush-crested Jay Cyanocorax chrysops
Several noisy groups around hotel, Ig.
European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
House Sparrow Passer domesticus
TdF, U, BA etc.
Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus
10/3/02: 2, Otomendi.
Rufous-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus poicilotis
11/3/02: 1 near macuco trail, Ig. 13/3/02: 1, Ig.
Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica
9/3/02: male, CS. 10/3/02: 5+ near Otomendi.
Black-chinned Siskin C. barbata
1/3/02: 2,2 at TdF NP. Surprisingly thin on the ground.
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
Small numbers in many mixed flocks, Ig.
Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis
1 at CS in long grasses along reserve edge.
Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivoris
Single at Otomendi. Abundant at Ig.
White-rimmed Warbler B. leucoblepharus
15/3/02: 1 singing along macuco trail.
Neotropical River Warbler B. rivularis
15/3/02: 1 on stream at end of macuco trail and 2 others on path itself later.
Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum
11/3/02: 5+ macuco trail, Ig. 14/3/02: 1, Ig. 15/3/02: 1, macuco trail.
Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana
Small flocks both separately and in loose mixed flocks, Ig.
Chestnut-headed Tanager Pyrrhocoma ruficeps
13/3/02: stunning male low in dense bushes near Bertoni's Antbirds. Seemingly atatched to mixed flock.
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira
Small numbers in mixed flocks, Ig.
Ruby-crowned Tanager Tachyphonus coronatus
Common in small numbers, Ig.
Black- Goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops
Abundant, Ig. A major constituent of many mixed flocks.
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habica rubica
13/3/02: small numbers, yacaratia trail. 14/3/02: several flocks, macuco trail.
Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca
10/3/02: 2+ north of BA.
Diademed Tanager Stephanophorus diadematus
10/3/02: single immature in shrubby wet area north of BA.
Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea
13/3/02: 10+ in fruiting tree in hotel grounds, Ig.
Chestnut-bellied Euphonia E. pectoralis
12/3/02: male with Green-headed Tanagers, Ig. 13/3/02: 4+ in Cecropias, Ig.
Green-headed Tanager Tangara seledon
12/3/02: 5+ in isolated tree at station, devil's throat, Ig.
Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana
Regular, Ig, especially at fruiting shrubs and trees. Mostly in small groups, often predominantly female-plumaged birds.
Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis
15/3/02: male high in canopy, macuco trail.
Red-crested Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus
14/3/02: 1 in bamboo, Ig.
Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch Phrygilus gayi
1/3/02: small numbers in open areas, TdF NP. 3/3/02: 1, road to RG. 7/3/02: 2 males behind visitors' centre, PT. Also seen at Vd.
Patagonian Sierra-Finch P. patagonicus
1+2/3/02: many at TdF NP. Responsive to pishing, approaching with quiet ticks and head-craning. 3/3/02: several at LN. 4/3/02: common and tame at carpark, Moreno.
Mourning Sierra-Finch P. fruticeti
7/3/02: female behind visitors' centre, PT. 8/3/02: abundant at Punta Norte where many female-plumaged birds in carpark area.
Carbonated Sierra-Finch P. carbonarius
7/3/02: pair in flight at first roadside stop once onto gravel PT road.
Yellow-bridled Finch Melanodera xanthogramma
27/2/02: 2 overhead at the Martial Glacier, coming in to land on an area of scree slope. Male very distinctive even at initially-long range.
Common Diuca-Finch Diuca diuca
7/3/02: 1 behind visitors' centre, PT.
Black-capped Warbling-Finch Poospiza melanoleuca
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi.
Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
12/3/02: pair alongside dry marsh, Ig.
Double-collared Seedeater Sporophila caerulescens
9/3/02: 2 males, CS. 10/3/02: 3 birds near Otomendi. 13/3/02: young male bird, hotel grounds on seeding grasses.
Blackish-Blue Seedeater Amaurospiza moesta
14/3/02: nice male briefly in dense bamboo thicket, towards far end of yacaratia trail. Other areas of bamboo looked worthwhile for the species.
Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola
Small flocks around hotel, Ig.
Grassland Yellow-Finch S. luteola
16/3/02: 1, CS.
Patagonian Yellow-Finch S. lebruni
7/3/02: small flock behind visitors' centre, PT. 8/3/02: 2 on cliffs at Caleta Valdes.
Great Pampa-Finch Embernagra platensis
10/3/02: 1, Otomendi.
Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata
9/3/02: young bird on waterfront and 2 beautiful adults in large trees by entrance to CS.
Yellow-billed Cardinal P. capitata
Confiding birds along waterfront at CS.
Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris
12/3/02: singing adult, macuco trail, Ig.
Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis
12/3/02: 1, dry marsh, Ig.
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Several races across the country.
Green-winged Saltator Saltator similis
13/3/02: 1 in canopy, Ig. 14/3/02: 1 along macuco trail.
Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius
9/3/02: several males at CS. 10/3/02: 10+ in wet grassland.
Unicoloured Blackbird A. cyanopus
10/3/02: 3+ males roosting with marshbirds.
Long-tailed Meadowlark Sturnella loyca
Common in U, where all birds seen were in advanced moult. Common along road to EC. Many also at Moreno/LN and on Vd.with many tail feathers missing.
Baywing Molothrus badius
Shiny Cowbird M. bonariensis
Female at visitors' centre, PT. Also at Punta Norte, Vd.
Epaulet Oriole Icterus cayanensis
10/3/02: 2, Otomendi. 13/3/02: 1, Ig. 14/3/02: 1, Ig.
Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous
Common at Ig.
Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus
10/3/02: 2+ roosting with other icterids.
Austral Blackbird Curaeus curaeus
4/3/02: 8+ at carpark on approach to Moreno. Located by noisy calls of sentinel bird: others then gradually noticed feeding quietly on fruiting bushes.
Yellow-rumped Marshbird Pseudoleistes guirahuro
10/3/02: 2 in reedbed north of BA along main road to Entre Rios. Good views.
Brown-and-yellow Marshbird P. virescens
10/3/02: 40+ coming in to roost in reeds, wet grassland north of BA.
SPECIES LIST (MAMMALS)
colonies along Beagle channel and at Vd/PN.
Colonies along Beagle channel.
Southern Elephant Seal
A few on beaches in Vd, esp PN.
2 magnificent females watched searching for channels to the beach at PN. For an hour, they waited for high tide before storming in to the beach with dorsal fins flailing, and grounding themselves on the surf line. The victim (a sea-lion pup) was then taken out to sea and played with for 45 mins+. Awesome and an experience no-one there will ever forget.
Common in south and Patagonia, often giving good views from the car.
Patagonian Grey Fox
1 crossing road from RG-EC.
Patagonian Red Fox
Several from car across Patagonia and "tame" individuals at carparks in Vd.
1 at PT then several in carpark at PN, climbing over visitors and being very stubborn in their requests for food.
PT, Ig, BA. At least Ig individuals are Lesser Cavy.
1 crossing road from EC to RG. Small skunk, with 2 longitudinal white stripes. Coaxed off road very cautiously.
Ig, on catwalks.
2 individuals on separate mornings at Ig. The first was all chocolate; the second was silver in front of the thorax, black behind.
Another incredible mammal; this one leapt out of the pathside vegetation after a Grey-fronted Dove and then gave amazing views a few feet ahead of me before vanishing into the forest.