Having loved Panama and Canopy Tower last year, we planned a return trip this year, staying at the Tower's sister accommodation in El Valle de Anton: Canopy Lodge.
May 19, 2007 - La Estancia/Canopy Lodge
Early AM - A hummingbird just buzzed me. I was too close to its feeder on the breakfast balcony at La Estancia Bed and Breakfast on Cerro Ancon in Panama City. If I knew Panama's bird songs my trip list would already be over a dozen birds long. In fact, it was the cacophony of sound that awoke me - well, maybe combined with a bit of anticipatory excitement. Now I'm going to take a break. It's getting light and I might get to see some of the species that have been singing.
PM - Long day! The rest of the morning at La Estancia was quite entertaining. Breakfast was served on a balcony surrounded by trees and a bunch of hanging bananas, put out daily by the staff. In addition to several bird battles: Blue-gray Tanager pair ousting a single Blue-gray Tanager from the bananas and Tropical Kingbirds mobbing Yellow-headed Caracaras, we had a troupe of Geoffrey's Tamarins (Mono Titis) visit the bananas twice. They were absolutely adorable, with two youngsters in tow.
We spent the rest of the post-breakfast morning at Albrook Mall - the boys wanted to buy a couple of Cubano cigars. Then we were picked up for our ride out to El Valle de Anton and Canopy Lodge.
After a two-hour ride, the last part of it along a steep, winding mountain road, we arrived. We were greeted by Danilo, one of the guides, who was immediately ready to take us birding. We were insistent that we wanted to get settled in our rooms first. Then we met up with him and, a couple of hours later, wound up with 30 species, a few repeats from the morning.
I'm not sure how many lifers we got today. I'm sure there were several. But I'm exhausted. It's been a long day. So, while the boys smoke their Cohiba and Romeo and Julieta to the sound of frogs and a calling owl, I'm going to get ready for bed.
La Estancia B&B:
Palm Tanager
Yellow-headed Caracara
Variable Seedeater
Black Vulture
Blue-gray Tanager
Keel-billed Toucan
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Crimson-backed Tanager
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Great Kiskadee
Tropical Mockingbird
Clay-colored Robin
Tropical Kingbird
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Canopy Lodge and environs:
White Hawk
Pale-vented Pigeon
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Stripe-throated Hermit
Garden Emerald
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Snowy-bellied Hummingbird
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Lesser Elaenia
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Great Kiskadee
Social Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Yellow-green Vireo
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Southern House Wren
Clay-colored Robin
Rufous-capped Warbler
Crimson-backed Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Thick-billed Euphonia
Plain-colored Tanager
Golden-hooded Tanager
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Variable Seedeater
Buff-throated Saltator
Giant Cowbird
Flame-rumped Tanager
Shiny Cowbird
Panama Trip Report II - Canopy Lodge Environs A.M.
As usual, up early. The feeders all around the lodge make an incredible difference, as we sit in lounge chairs and watch the parade of Tanagers, Hummers, and male and female Honeycreepers.
After breakfast, Danilo said we would go birding until about nine and then go to the market. Birding took longer. We trekked through true jungle habitat. Factoid: a jungle occurs after an opening forms in the rainforest, allowing for heavy undergrowth since light actually hits the ground. Some time was spent along the road calling in a Bay Wren.
While we were walking along the road, Avi heard a knocking sound, indicating some Manikins were displaying. Sure enough, there were a couple of pairs, flying around and clacking air under their wings with their yellow collars all ruffed out.
Then we went back into jungle habitat. I joked about wanting to see a Mottled Owl. Danilo became my genie. He pulled out his cd player and, for the longest time, played the Mottled Owl call. As we were finally giving up, the owl flew in, landed just above our heads and stared into my eyes for a short while before flying off. It was a breath-stopping moment!
Other "difficult" birds included a Chestnut-backed Antbird and an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush.
Possible candidates for most beautiful bird of the morning were a group of Bay-headed Tanagers. But my favorite came just after lunch - my target bird for the trip: A Rufous-crested Coquette. She was a tiny little girl, no larger than a bumblebee and not quite as showy as the male would have been. But after a morning like this it was perfection.
By the way, we DID make it to the Sunday market in El Valle where we purchased gifts and four mangos, which the kitchen staff peeled and cut up for us a pre-lunch treat.
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
Dusky-faced Tanager
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Black-chested Jay
Long-billed Starthroat
Bay Wren
Blue-black Grosbeak
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Keel-billed Toucan
Golden-collared Manakin
Bay-headed Tanager
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Yellow-olive Flycatcher
Orange-billed Nightingale Thrush
Mottled Owl
Bananaquit
Rufous-crested Coquette
Gray-necked Wood Rail
Red-billed Sparrow
Panama Trip Report IIb - Canopy Lodge Environs P.M.
Rain, rain, rain! Even though it kept us under cover, the birds were still fairly active. The tanager feeders and Verbena flowers were bustling with activity. A Bananaquit and a Violet-headed Hummingbird were great visitors. We also added a Rufous Motmot at the feeder by the forested side of the open air Commons area.
Finally, around 5 pm, the rain let up for about half an hour. We dashed out for some quick before-dinner birding. It was a great idea.
We were watching a Yellow-billed Cacique play hide and seek in a Cecropia tree when Dan pointed out a bird in the thick cover on the ground. It was actually a pair of White-bellied Antbirds. The male ducked in deep after allowing us a short look. The female continued closer to the front, giving us some quality looks at her.
As it began to rain again and we turned back, we also saw a Gray-headed Chachalaca on a distant tree.
Rufous Motmot
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Yellow-billed Cacique
White-bellied Antbird
Gray-headed Chachalaca
Bananaquit
Gray-necked Wood-Rail
Addendum: At dinner there were thousands of flying ants having an orgy around the lights, around the food, around the furniture, outside our rooms, and - well, I think everyone had a little extra protein in some of their food!
Panama Trip Report IIIa - La Mesa A.M.
If there's such a thing as a perfect birding morning, this was it. Danilo took us up, up and up to an area called La Mesa. Our first trek was along a moderately sloped trail. Overall, the birding seemed to be a lot easier than last year's in the Canal Zone area. I think part of it has to do with the lack of oppressive weather conditions.
Along the way we met a woman who told us to REALLY see the animals we needed to go back into the forest. She then names some we could see that way, specifying that one of them was impossible to find now since people were killing it for food. Unfortunately, most of the Spanish names were lost on me.
The rest of the morning's birding was mostly along roadsides. Birds included several beautiful Tanagers, a Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, and a Blue-throated Toucanet. We were also lucky to see a Slate-colored Seedeater, only discovered in this region of Panama (by Canopy Lodge guide Tino) four days previous. Right near it we also saw a female Green Thorntail, also an unusual bird.
Right now it's just after lunch and I'm elated. The male Rufous-crested Coquette gave us good, long looks as it fed its way through the Verbena at the Lodge. I'm hoping one of the many photos Avi tried to take (with old fashioned print film) comes out.
Southern Lapwing
Black-headed Saltator
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Smooth-billed Ani
Scaled Pigeon
Violet-crowned Woodnymph
Tawny-crested Tanager
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Black-striped Sparrow
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer
Tawny-capped Euphonia
Paltry Tyrannulet
Swallow-tailed Kite
Hepatic Tanager
Spotted Woodcreeper
Silver-thorated Tanager
White Hawk
Gray-headed Chachalaca
White-lined Tanager
Lesser Elaenia
Shiny Cowbird
Southern House Wren
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
Blue-throated Toucanet
Broad-billed Motmot
Streak-throated Hermit
Streak-backed Flycatcher
Rufous-breasted Wren
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Golden-hooded Tanager
Gray Hawk
White-winged Becard
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Lesser Greenlet
Pale-vented Thrush
Slate-colored Seedeater
Green Thorntail
Rufous-crested Coquette
Addendum:
People generally worry about poisonous snakes when they travel to the rainforest - at least that's what they always ask about. Let me tell you, worry more about the ants. One bit my on my upper thigh. The initial sting was a throbbing agony for about a half hour and the allergic reaction is no picnic either.
Panama Trip Report IIIb - La Mesa P.M.
This afternoon we returned to La Mesa - mostly to continue searching for the Black-faced Grosbeak, Orange-bellied Trogon, and Bran-colored Flycatcher. On these counts we were about 75% successful. We all saw the Trogon well. We all had in-flight glimpses at the Grosbeak, and Avi and Dan got middling looks at the Flycatcher. I dipped on the last bird because I couldn't leap across a small gully that would have put me at a higher vantage point.
Avi checked a couple of hennequen-type cactus plants. One held a wonderful small green tree frog. Another held Boris the spider's cousin. (Boris was a large brown spider we found in our room at Canopy Lodge. We captured him in a cup and released him outside.)
On our walk, we enjoyed listening to and watching a Rufous-and-white Wren. Its song had a haunting, ghostly quality to it. A Squirrel Cuckoo gave us great looks, but managed to move around just enough to make it impossible for Dan to get a clear photo.
The birding success story of the afternoon was the Black-faced Antthrush. Last year it drove Avi and me crazy. We kept hearing it (its song is burned into our brains); but we only came away with incomplete looks. Today, Danilo called it in and Avi and I got decent looks at its face, tail and little egg-like body. Unfortunately, Dan said he "might as well have been looking at a wren for all [he] saw".
As we waited along the road for Dan to emerge from the forest, Avi spied a small, garter snake-sized snake emerging from the grass at the side of the road. It was a very pretty red snake with darker markings along its back. It was small, but handsome. I'll see if I can find its name when I get home.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Smooth-billed Ani
Black-faced Grosbeak
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Rufous-and-white Wren
White-collared Swift
Squirrel Cuckoo
Orange-bellied Trogon
Black-faced Antthrush
Common Nighthawk
Blue-throated Toucanet
Collared Aracari
Spotted Woodcreeper
Panama Trip Report IVa - La Culebra
After breakfast, Danilo wanted to check by the single room Cottage at the Lodge. His brother had reported hearing Uniform Crakes there the night before. We didn't get to see them. But Dan told us he HAD seen them on his way to breakfast this morning. Considering he's not keeping a life list, he's one bird up on us!
We drove out to an area near El Valle where wealthy Panamanians, Americans and (according to Danilo) Israelis have their weekend homes. Once you walk beyond the homes you're in the rainforest and the birding was reminiscent of last year's trip.
Easier birds to find included a Green Honeycreeper (while exiting Canopy Lodge), several Blue-crowned Motmots, both male and female Barred Antshrikes, and an adorable Tropical Screech-Owl at its day roost in a Pine tree.
We were fairly successful at watching a Rosy Thrush-Tanager scavenging through the leaves back in the forest. We also got brief, but clear and wonderful looks at a male Lance-tailed Manakin.
Nevertheless, as hard as Danilo tried, we couldn't lure responding Tody Motmots into the open for a peek.
After lunch, Dan finally got to see the male Rufous-crested Coquette feeding in the Verbena. Now it's raining, so we'll see how the rest of the afternoon goes.
Uniform Crake (only Dan, so not added to our life list)
Green Honeycreeper
Gray-breasted Martin
Blue-crowned Motmot
Barred Antshrike
Yellow-crowned Euphonia
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Tropical Screech-Owl
Barred Woodcreeper
Rosy Thrush-Tanager
Rufous-breasted Wren
Long-billed Starthroat
Blue-black Grassquit
Lance-tailed Manakin
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Plain Xenops
Black-striped Sparrow
Short-tailed Hawk
Blue-and-white Swallow
Panama Trip Report IVb - Raul Arias' Property P.M.
It rained heavily most of the afternoon. Dan and I napped while Avi read. Around 4 we wandered over to the commons area. The Red-billed Sparrows showed up as did the Rufous Motmot. An Olive-striped Flycatcher came in to eat some berries off a bush. Odd that it's called a Flycatcher when it mostly eats fruit.
When the rain let up Danilo suggested we checked out the property around Raul's house. (Raul is traveling in the US right now.)
Most of what we saw were the typical Lodge birds. We also found a dead bat with an exceptionally long tongue - probably nectivorous.
We climbed a steep hill behind the house and Danilo pointed out a Great Antshrike sitting in some shrubbery. It was a striking, large bird with luminescent red eyes. We got great looks as it sat perfectly still for us. Dan tried to take photos. But, we were wearing sandals, since we figured we wouldn't be out long. Ants decided to attack his ankles, cutting his photo session short.
This was closely followed by more great looks at a Rosy Thrush-Tanager sitting on an exposed branch.
The afternoon birding might have been brief - but it contained some exceptional life birds!
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Long-billed Starthroat
Great Antshrike
Rosy Thrush-Tanager
Panama Trip Report V - Altos de Maria
Today was our extra early morning - 5:30 breakfast - with an all-day trip to Altos de Maria. Altos (heights) is a precise description. We went into four-wheel drive and drove what seemed to be straight up until we topped out at over 3,000 feet.
The day was full of new trip birds and a great many fabulous photo ops for Dan. There were also a few steep climbs up and down. We spent quite a bit of time at small tight inlets to rainforest "windows", some unsuccessful and some extremely successful, as in the case of the rare Black-eared Wood-Quail. On this time around, Dan was able to see the Black-faced Antthrush.
The cutest animals today were a lilliputian Pygmy Squirrel, and a tiny hummingbird called a Snowcap feeding at equally tiny flowers.
I would like to rave about the gorgeous scenery in the area. Unfortunately, I can't. Altos de Maria is undergoing heavy development. Roads are being built for access to future large weekend homes. I'm hoping there are plans to preserve tracts of this cloud rainforest. But I'm afraid to be overly optimistic.
At dinner - a lonely one since the Houston group of six departed today - we had our second onslaught of orgiastic flying ants. Speaking of ants, Dan and I spent a brief while during the day watching Army Ants move their bivouac. Everyone going in one direction was busy carrying an egg. Others were going back with empty mandibles, ready to carry another.
Another highlight of today's trip were tracks we found - four toes with no apparent claw marks. Feline? They were about a third the size of Dan's foot (size 10-1/2). There were a second set of identical, but smaller prints. Mother and cub Ocelots?
Lineated Woodpecker
Blue-headed Parrot
White-ruffed Manikin
Double-toothed Kite
Common Tufted-Flycatcher
White-vented Euphonia
Black-and-yellow Tanager
Snowcap
Bright-rumped Attila
Blue-fronted Parrotlets
Ochraceous Wren
Brown-billed Scythebill
Shining Honeycreeper
Gray-headed Kite
Tropical Peewee
White-throated Thrush
Dull-mantled Antbird
Black-faced Antthrush
Pale-vented Thrush
Black-chested Jay
White Hawk
Plain Antvireo
Black-eared Wood-Quail
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Violet-crowned Woodnymph
Common Bush-Tanager
White-throated Spadebill
Red-faced Spinetail
Crested Oropendula (displaying)
Panama Flycatcher
Pale-vented Pigeon
Swallow-tailed Kite
Panama Trip Report VIa - La Mesa A.M.
Canopy Lodge's accommodations might be easier on the knees than Canopy Tower, but the birding trails in the area are not. There are lots of ups and downs and I'm beginning to feel them.
This morning we returned to La Mesa. There were plenty of elusive birds this morning. Ultimately, many of them allowed us clear looks.
We also stopped back at the area where we found the Bran-colored Flycatcher and the little green frog. Both were still there and the Flycatcher was a bit more cooperative. Even I had a glimpse of her from my lower vantage point.
As for the frog, a bit further in along the same cactus leaf was Boris the spider's cousin with a huge egg sac between her front legs. I guess more than just birds and ants are breeding in May!
Not much additional information of note except for the birds, so here they are.
Spotted Woodcreeper
Dusky Antbird
Rufous-breasted Hermit
White-vented Euphonia
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
Common Bush-Tanager
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Thrush-like Schiffornis
Barred Hawk
Masked Tityra
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Yellow-olive Flycatcher
Rufous-and-white Wren
Black-chested Jay
Green Hermit
Short-tailed Hawk
Yellow-billed Cacique
Blue-chested Hummingbird
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Black-headed Saltator
Panama Trip Report VIb - La Zamia P.M.
There's nothing quite like being caught in the rain in the rainforest. At first it all seems quite romantic as the rain begins to fall gently, making a soothing sound as it hits the canopy leaves. You barely feel it, since you are, initially, sheltered. Then there's thunder and heavier rain. Finally, you realize you're about a half mile from the car over rocky, downhill terrain, and you have your digital camera with you, not to mention the fact that my binoculars are merely water "resistant" (unlike Avi's and Dan's which are waterproof).
The afternoon wasn't threatening when we left. Before leaving the lodge for La Zamia, there was an incredible bright green Iguana on the bridge. Dan got some amazing photos of this fearless creature. Danilo surmised it was a young one, in spite of the fact it was well over a foot long.
Danilo had brought along a couple of large umbrellas (2) for the four of us. We shared. But by the time we got to the car my feet were in pools of water that had entered by boots, my pants had wicked water up to my knees, my back was soaked, and we were laughing hysterically.
Fortunately, we checked all our equipment, drying off the binoculars with our bandannas as best we could. Everything was fine. Now we're back at the Lodge and everything is sitting on the drying rack or under the ceiling fans set on high. I used a hair dryer in Dan's hiking shoes, since he doesn't have a second pair like Avi and I. I'm hoping they're dry enough for our all-day trip to El Chiru tomorrow.
Long-billed Gnatwren
Gray-necked Wood-Rail (great looks as this was on the trail ahead of us)
Panama Trip Report VII - El Chiru
Another early rising for a full day of birding in the Pacific lowlands. A lot of the land there is becoming agricultural. Cattle and rice seemed prevalent as we drove through the area.
Luckily, there was a good breeze most of the day so, in spite of the sun, we managed to remain quite comfortable.
Our first stop was around some cattle ranches. New trip species were everywhere. Our first one was Red-breasted Blackbirds, mostly low in the grass. There were also a few Savannah Hawks perched on poles and trees around the same fields.
I was pleased that all the walking for the day was on level, sandy ground, giving my poor knees some rest.
Danilo can be single-minded and stubborn when it comes to waiting for some birds to appear. He decided we were going to see Crested Bobwhites, a bird he knew was along this particular road. He set up our mid-morning snack at an opportune spot. We heard them calling in the tall grass, but the grass never seemed to move.
Danilo caught a few glimpses of some of them as they crossed the road. I joked that we needed a bird dog to flush them. The joke was lost on Danilo, since there probably is no such thing in Panama, so I explained it to him.
Finally (and, as usual, I have no idea how), Danilo saw one perched on a low bush and got the scope on her. We all got decent looks. Then, as such things happen, we got into the truck and started to drive a way. A couple of the Bobwhites, still in the grass, flushed! Oy!
While waiting for the Bobwhites to show themselves, we had opportunity to observe Blue-black Grassquits displaying. Both male and female do a little jumping up and down dance while facing each other.
Lunch was at the Pacific beachfront. Brown Pelicans, Neotropical Cormorants, and Magnificent Frigatebirds entertained. We even saw a Frigatebird harass a fish from a gull - justifying their reputation as pirate birds.
The afternoon slowed down considerably after lunch, though we picked up a beautiful White-winged Becard, a tiny Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, and a Striped Cuckoo, which reminded us of a miniature Roadrunner.
Red-breasted Blackbird
Cattle Egret
Crested Caracara
Savannah Hawk
Groove-billed Ani
Yellow-crowned Amazon
Great Kiskadee
Streaked Saltator
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Sapphire-throated Hummingbird
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Blue-black Grassquit
Eastern Meadowlark
Garden Emerald
Panama Flycatcher
Magnificent Frigatebird
Veraguan Mango
Bat Falcon
Streaked Flycatcher
Scrub Greenlet
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
Crested Bobwhite
Black-necked Stilt
Wattled Jacana
Blue Ground-Dvoe
Brown Pelican
Neotropic Cormorant
Laughing Gull
Royal Tern
Golden-fronted Greenlet
White-winged Becard
Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant
Glossy Ibis
Great Egret
Snowy Egret
Mourning Dove
Yellow-headed Caracara
Southern Lapwing
Striped Cuckoo
Panama Trip Report VIIIa - Canopy Lodge A.M.
Our last morning at Canopy Lodge. We opted for breakfast at the usual 6:30 a.m. so we could go out for a couple of hours of birding with Danilo before our ride back to Panama City.
Danilo first took us over to El Chorro Macho trail. There weren't too many birds this morning. But we enjoyed going over two suspended bridges and seeing the waterfall. Along the way there was a plaque memorializing Raul Arias's father, who purchased the land as a nature preserve, certainly forward-thinking for that time.
As usual, we revisited a few friends: Golden-headed and Tawny-crested Tanagers, Keel-billed Toucan, Squirrel Cuckoo, and more.
Back at the Lodge the Green Kingfisher, usually dashing along the river, was perched in the open, and the Violet-headed Hummingbird was feeding among the Snowy-bellieds, Rufous-taileds and Garden Emeralds. The feeders were busy with Tanagers. A couple of Crimson-backeds were copulating. Another female was feeding two begging fledglings under one of the feeders. A Chestnut-headed Oropendula ate some banana and then flew off with a bill full, most likely for chicks of its own. Sadly, no Coquette showed.
We were able to say "hi" to Pat, a birding acquaintance from Texas, briefly as she arrived and we prepared to leave. Finally, one last hug for Danilo and we boarded our van for the two hour, winding downhill trip to Panama City.
Panama Trip Report VIIIb - Panama City P.M.
We arrived at Las Huacas, our post-Canopy Lodge accommodation for the next two nights, around noon. Check-in was quick, though our room wasn't quite ready. They stored our bags.
A bit later we were picked up by Maximo. A cab driver named Luciano, whom we had met last year and booked to take us around the city this afternoon, had car trouble. So he asked Maximo to take us around.
Since we only had a few hours, and it was Dan's first time in Panama, we concentrated on the highlights of the city. First, and most importantly, we headed out to the Miraflores Locks of the Canal. Unfortunately, nothing large would pass until 2:40 p.m. But we were able to watch one of the locks function with a ferry, two catamarans, and a sailboat in it. The narrator explained private vessels such as these pay $800 to $1,500 to transit the Canal.
After the Canal, we stopped at a Chinese-Panamanian owned store selling fruits to pick up a light lunch (many of the grocery stores in Panama are owned by people of Chinese descent). Dan got a small shrimp ceviche and a large mixed fruit salad. Avi and I got a large package of ripe, sweet, cut up mango. We also got some sugar cane for later and I got a fruit (called mamon in Panama) that I loved when I lived in Puerto Rico and Mexico. It was a perfect light lunch!
Next stop: Amador Causeway. Well, it wasn't really a stop, but a drive through. Last year we went no farther than the Mi Ranchito Restaurant. This year we went further and discovered there was lots of commercial development on the far end - mostly restaurants of every ethnic choice. One offered a parrillada (mixed grill) that would feed 2-3 people for $15.99, which included a 1/2 liter of Chilean wine.
After driving through the Causeway we went for a ride through Panama Viejo (the original Panama City burned down by Capt. Morgan). Dan and Avi walked around while I went shopping in the adjacent crafts market. The shop I went to in the market was one I knew from last year. It's a Wounaan Embera coop store. IMHO, it's the best quality shop at this particular location.
I picked up a gorgeous Wren with a worm in its mouth carved from a Tagua nut. The closest species I could liken it to is a Stripe-throated Wren. This would make sense since this species is a Darien region specialty and the artist comes from that region - a member of the Wounaan Embera tribe.
I also purchased a carved hummingbird on a flower carved from a hardwood called cocobolo in Panama. For those with such interests, the cocobolo is a sub-canopy tree that reaches a height of 45-60 feet with trunk diameters of up to 3 feet. The stems are what the Embera prefer to use for their carvings.
Finally, we went for a drive around Casco Viejo, the old French settlement area from the days when the French tried, unsuccessfully, to build a Canal. We stopped in to see the carved gold altar at the San Jose church. Legend has it that the altar was saved from the rapacious Welsh pirate Henry Morgan during the sacking of the original Panama City when a quick-thinking priest had it painted black, hiding its true value.
Casco Viejo is an area in transition. There are buildings that have been completely renovated across the street from ones that look like slums. It's a work "in progress", but it makes one wonder about the issues of displacement for its current residents.
It's right next door to Panama City's "Chinatown". It's not overtly Chinese as in NYC, SF, or Toronto. But hints of its ethnicity, such as windows with hanging Peking Duck, or Chinese characters above or below Spanish words, hint at the street's identity.
Maximo dropped us back at Las Huacas, where we went up to our room. It was more than adequate to our needs. There was a small sitting area at the entrance. Straight through (divided by a counter) was a kitchen, equipped with a small refrigerator, microwave, and two-burner stove. A dinette set seating four was by a window. A suspended television with satellite reception could be turned for viewing in either room.
To the left was a bedroom with two beds pushed together to make a king-sized bed and a wall of built-in closets and drawers, making up way more storage space than we needed for our short stay. To the right was the bathroom (tankless water heater) and a bedroom with a queen bed, the same closet system, and a second television. That particular room also had the only nightstand, alarm clock, and telephone.
Location-wise it was perfect. We were a block from Via Argentina, a great street with restaurants, grocery stores, laundromats, and nice apartment buildings. I'd already decided we were eating at El Trapiche, a restaurant serving Panamanian food, which was up the street. It had come well recommended on Internet travel sites. After eating there, I agree heartily! The food was good and the prices better than reasonable. Dan had a large bowl of Sancocho, a rich chicken and vegetable soup/stew, accompanied by an order of fried yucca. Avi had chicken with mushrooms, and I had pork in a brown sauce. Avi and I had sides and a small salad accompanying our meal. We all had juice. The bill came to $18.
After dinner we stopped at Manolo's, just across the street, where we bought some churros (sugared strips of fried dough) for dessert, munching on them as we walked back to the hotel.
On our walk back we stopped at a small grocery (Chinese-Panamanian, of course) and got a couple of drinks and some Marias cookies for the room. Back at the hotel, Dan and Avi watched the Utah Jazz beat the San Antonio Spurs. I read a bit and fell asleep early.
Panama Trip Report IX - Isla Taboga
Up at 7 a.m., breakfast at the hotel, then a quick cab ride to the ferry docks to spend a day out at Isla Taboga.
Information about the island was sketchy at best, leaving much of what we would discover as a surprise to be discovered at our arrival. We went out without swimsuits and towels.
The ferry ride was $10 round trip per person. They asked for passport or ID numbers. Luckily, Avi and I had cards with our passport numbers on them. Dan did not, so we made up a number for him, one digit up from ours sequentially. No matter!
The ferry ride was great. We sat on the upper deck, just missing shaded seats. Lots of extended families were going out for a Sunday on the island. During the ride we were joined, for a while, by a pair of Brown Boobies - a great life bird for us! They kept flying around the ferry and diving for food. It was interesting to see how shallow their diving angle is and how they kick the top of the water to take off. Luckily, Dan got some amazing shots of them.
As for Isla Taboga - we LOVED it!
When debarking from the ferry, to the right is a small, whitish sand beach with calm, clear waters. You can rent large beach umbrellas and folding chairs from beach vendors, though I'm not sure of the cost. At the entrance area to the beach there are showers/changing rooms for 50 cents each. So, though not optimal, there is a place to shower and change after swimming.
There are also a few restaurants along the beach area. We chose the Restaurant Chino (not sure of the real name) because of the cool breeze blowing out the doorway. No a/c, but its oceanfront location made it more than comfortable. At first pass we just stopped in and had a few bottles of beer for 75 cents each. Then we went off to explore the small town of San Pedro.
It's one big hill, with nicely kept to beautiful homes. There were several Anglo names to be found among the population. In fact, we saw one woman driving a golf cart with a plate from Key West, FL. Walking was pleasant, since there are virtually no vehicles on the island that we saw other than a few gold carts and a small trucklet belonging to one of the hotels.
We visited three island "attractions". The first was a church said to have been built in 1524, the year the village was founded. The exterior has been well-maintained. A man offered to unlock the doors for us so we could go inside, but we declined.
Then we stopped at the ruins of the house where Gauguin lived when he was on the island in the 1880's. He went to Panama to earn some money working on the French canal project. Somehow, he temporarily wound up in San Pedro, but became disillusioned and, eventually, moved on to Martinique.
Our last sightseeing stop was the oldest "house" on the island. We kept looking for a house, but discovered it was just a few formations of stone.
Hot and sweaty, we went back to the Restaurant and shared a couple of plates of fried corvina (bass), a soda, and a couple more beers. Cost? $8
Dan lamented we hadn't brought swimsuits. If we ever return, I would certainly spend at least one day there again!
No Boobies joined us on the ferry ride back. But we did have some brief looks at a few dolphins and some flying fish - and they DO go quite a distance in the air!
When we got back to the dock on the Amador Causeway, we rented a 3 person quadricycle for $4/30 min. We road along the causeway, dodging people and other cycles, bi-, tri- and quadri-. We got to see a mature Yellow-crowned Night Heron eat one of the pretty speckled crabs on the rocks by the side of the causeway.
Then we had dinner at Mi Ranchito, grabbed a cab back to the hotel and, sadly, started preparing to leave. (Actually, Avi packed. I read and Dan alternated between watching Cleveland win at baseball and Cleveland win at basketball.)
Brown Pelican
Rock Pigeon (oh well)
Neotropical Cormorant
Magnificent Frigatebird
Brown Booby
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Blue-black Grassquit
White Ibis
Panama Trip Report - FAREWELL
A walk for breakfast. We stopped at a panaderia: World of Bread. Lousy bread - GREAT coffee. We also bought a few sandwiches and juices for consumption at the airport. Good thing, too - the flight food was dreadful!
Checkout from Las Huacas was effortless and our cab to the airport was on time.
So, now we're on our fligt to Houston. Personally, I could visit Panama again. But there are so many countries on our list so, let's see what the future holds!
Now I just have to do a final bird list for the trip and I'll post that as soon as possible. I'll also be posting an information about the trip post, as I did last year, with reviews of our accommodations, what to bring on such a trip, and what the different birding trails were like.
Stay tuned!
For those who are interested, what follows are the logistics of our trip:
The following has to do with the basics of our trip to Panama. Answers to questions we had that were, for the most part, unanswered.
1. How are the mosquitoes?
Although we didn’t see many mosquitos, I think I came home with more bites of some ilk than from last year’s stay at Canopy Tower. Once again, we DID wear long pants, long sleeves, hats, and boots and socks at all times out in the field. I’m pretty sure most of my bites came from the times I wore sandals at the Lodge. But, to be fair, Avi got no bites at all. Luck of the draw, I guess. Apparently, at least in May, there’s no chigger problem anywhere in the area.
2. Cotton or Nylon?
Again, I’ve got to go with nylon. It’s awfully wet in the area of the Lodge during “Green season”. In fact, we felt as though everything was always a bit damp. At least the nylon dried out when it got wet from the rain. My socks stayed wet forever after they got soaked in one of the downpours!
3. Best purchases for the trip?
My opinion hasn’t changed: the Ex-officio travel underwear! What a difference! I was able to wash them out at night, put them on the drying racks in our rooms, and they were ready by morning.
We each brought three pair. I would bring three pair again, even though two probably would have done it.
4. Least useful purchases for the trip?
This time around we had learned from experience. We didn’t wind up buying anything that wasn’t useful at some point on our trip.
5. Umbrellas or ponchos?
Up to you. Canopy Lodge has full-size umbrellas available for your use. In fact, on threatening afternoons, our guide took a few into the field, just in case. To be honest, when walking in a rainy season downpour, it might keep your head dry, but it does absolutely nothing for your feet. Make sure you bring two pairs of hiking shoes and enough socks!
Ziploc bags, easy to carry, are useful to put optics and our cameras in during downpours.
6. Trail conditions?
MUCH DIFFERENT than last year! Hiking was more of a challenge and my knees, already a bit arthritic, really began to feel it as the week went on.
Yes, there’s quite a bit of birding done along roadsides. But there’s also a great deal on trails that are rocky, uneven, and moderately to steeply graded. I wore my heavier hiking boots most of the time for more stability. Also, during “Green season”, many of these trails are a bit slippery.
I DID tell our guide (Danilo), that I would have a problem with really steep grades, so there were a couple of trails we didn’t take. I can only imagine………
AROUND CANOPY LODGE: This offers a mix of walking conditions. There’s walking along the highway, walking into real jungle habitat on rocky slopes, and walking around the manicured and totally wild property. A mixed bag
LA MESA: Both level road walks, a gently sloped dirt road, a steeply sloped paved road, and a few slightly more challenging climbs. A mixed bag. We went here a few times, since there’s a lot of different habitats to explore.
LA CULEBRA: Birding on a paved road that varies from level to moderately steep.
ALTOS DE MARIA: This is a full-day trip involving a long drive using four wheel drive on dirt roads. Most of the birding is a combination of driving and short walks. I don’t recall any challenging hikes on this one.
LA ZAMIA: This is where we got caught in the rain, so I can’t speak for the full experience. What we DID experience involved a moderate climb on a rocky dirt path. Probably would have had excellent birds if it hadn’t started to pour.
EL CHIRU: Another full-day trip to the Pacific lowlands. Definitely easy on the body, though much hotter than anywhere else, since you’re back at sea level. The trip takes you through farmland, wetlands, beachfront, and other, varied habitats. I believe we got the greatest number of species this day.
THE COMMONS ROOM AT CANOPY LODGE: Who needs more? Between the feeders, the Verbena, and the Chilean wine with hors d’oeuvres, it’s the perfect birding spot!
7. What’s the story on Canopy LODGE?
There are two floors to the Lodge. We stayed in one of the double rooms on the first floor. Our son stayed in one of the more Spartan single rooms in the separate Cottage. I would describe the entire experience as Rustic Five-Star Luxury.
The Lodge is airier and more open than Canopy Tower. The rooms are MUCH larger and very well appointed. The rooms have two queen size beds with light covers and heavier covers. It DOES get cool in the El Valle region at night and we found ourselves using the heavier covers with the ceiling fans on to cut the humidity a bit.
There’s plenty of closet space with adequate numbers of hangers, a desk, and a balcony looking out on your small piece of the garden. The room also comes supplied with a battery operated alarm clock and a flashlight.
Again, there are warming racks in the bathrooms, which are concrete – a good choice for this type of climate since there is less of a chance of mildew forming on grout. Unlike the Tower, there are no soap dispensers on the wall. They supply a small bar of soap each day, along with bottled water, but we were glad we brought shampoo and our own larger soap (no biodegradable requirements here). The double rooms come with hair dryers provided.
The water heater is gas, so it takes a few moments for the water to heat up for the shower. But, once it does, there’s adequate hot water for the taking.
There are areas for walking, though we spent most of our time at the Lodge in the Commons area enjoying the myriad of Tanagers, Hummingbirds, and more, hanging out at the bird-friendly environment. There’s also an observation deck of sorts looking out at thick tangles of plants and vines. I saw very little whenever I went up there. There are also Hummingbird feeders along the downstairs walkway to the rooms. You can find some Hummers here that you don’t see in the main garden.
As in the Tower, there is no air conditioning. But there are ceiling fans in the rooms and in the dining/gathering area. Since the temperature was notably cooler than at the Tower, we were always comfortable, though I only wore a sweater one night.
As with Canopy Tower, water, a choice of juices and Gatorade are provided for the trips.
Internet access is NOT available at the Lodge. In fact we felt quite isolated from the world during our stay there – no internet, no radio, no television, no daily newspapers. There are very inexpensive international calling cards available at vending machines at the airport. We used one called Tele-chip. It cost $5 and offered 5 cent/minute calls to the U.S., more than enough for our needs during our 10 day stay in Panama. (Canopy Lodge has a phone the guests can use – you just need to ask for it.)
The food, once again, is simple, but excellent! There are three FULL meals each day and the evening meal is served with Chilean wine. This time we had things like Sancocho (a Panamanian chicken soup/stew), fish, pork chops - all of the highest quality! Juice always awaits when the group returns from the field. In the late afternoons, there are two types of hors d’oeuvres served. There’s a cash bar, as it were, during hors d’oeuvres time with beer, vodka, whiskey, gin, etc. - all high quality products.
There is no gift shop at the Lodge, though on Sundays there is a market in town with plenty of souvenir options for reasonable prices. We went after some extended morning birding. In addition to gifts, we brought back four ripe mangos, which the kitchen staff peeled and cut up for us.
If there’s anything I missed, please feel free to contact me for more information.
8. Packing list?
Sure. These were for our trip in May. Conditions might differ at different times of the year.
Clothing:
o Casual clothing for city traveling. People DID wear shorts in Panama City. But we preferred light pants (Avi wore seersucker and I wore very light cotton capris) and short-sleeved shirts.
o Shirts - Nylon, vented, long-sleeved (3)
o Trousers - light synthetic safari pants, the type with the zip off bottoms (3)
o Footwear: light weight hiking boots, heavy-duty hiking boots. Sandals for the city and upstairs in the Tower. No matter what, make sure you have two pair of shoes for the field in case one gets wet in the rain or the mud.
o Socks - 1 pair for each day. We brought Acrylic, since cotton would get soggy.
o Hat with visor for rain and sun protection
o Extra prescription glasses and medication. We didn’t bring extra glasses. But, last year, both our friends had their glasses break out in the field.
o Small day pack or fanny pack for hikes
o Sweater or Jacket – It can get cool in El Valle, especially in the evening after rain.
o Underwear - we LOVED our Ex-officio travel underwear. (3 pair each)
o Swimwear - for Panama City, if you’re staying somewhere that has a pool. Of no use at the Lodge.
Toiletries/Medicines:
o Shampoo, soap and detergent (for washing underwear or other garments)
o Sunscreen and pump spray insect repellent (30% DEET pump spray, cream or lotion) – We brought pump sunscreen too, which came in handy in Panama City’s sun.
o Tiger Balm or Camphophenique (prevents botflies) - put it on any bites you get. In theory, it kills their eggs.
o A&D Ointment - we didn’t use this. But one of our friends did, for chafing
o 1% Hydrocortisone Cream
o Tylenol, Advil, or some other type of analgesic
o Personal Hygiene Supplies
o Emergency roll of toilet paper or a package of tissues (Useful anywhere)
o Bandage called Blistex which can be placed on budding blisters before they get too bad
o Tweezers
o Nail clippers
o Band-aids
Other:
o Camera and film - LOTS of memory or LOTS of film.
o Ziplock plastic bags for spillable toiletries
o Ziplock plastic bags for rainproofing
o Plastic garbage bags for wet items or muddy boots
o Collapsible luggage to store extra items in Panama. Extra space is always helpful if you intend to buy any souvenirs.
o Field Journal
o Extra Batteries if you have things that need them: We brought rechargeable ones.
o Folding umbrellas or rain ponchos
9. What about money?
If you’re only staying at Canopy Lodge, bring enough for tips. They suggest $6 per day per person for the staff, as well as leaving a tip for the guides to your discretion. We also tipped our driver to and from the airport.
HOWEVER, if you’re going to be doing any shopping or spending any time away from Canopy Tower, bring more cash than you think you’ll need. We went to the market in El Valle and at Panama Viejo (I wanted to buy carved Tagua Nuts, a few Molas, and various and sundry gifts). Especially for Tagua Nuts and Cocobolo wood carvings, things can be more expensive than one would expect. High quality carvings are $25 and up. Molas are generally $10-$20. You’ll also need cash for any cab fares if you’re staying in Panama City or elsewhere, once you’ve left the Lodge.
10. Staying in Panama City?
Our first night we stayed at La Estancia Bed & Breakfast on Cerro Ancon. The room was large and the breakfast (and its accompanying wildlife) were great (read the trip report). The location wasn’t central, but that didn’t matter for one night. Our last two nights in Panama City were at Las Huacas in the El Cangrejo district. It was great for three people, centrally located, and the staff was very accommodating.
The restaurants we ate at in Panama City all accepted charge cards. However, call your charge card company and tell them you’ll be in Panama before traveling. Some will cancel the use of your card if charges from another country appear on their records (this happened to my mother in Mexico). We did this and had no problems during our time in Panama.
There ARE ATM’s all over Panama City and our cab driver was happy to stop at one for us when we ran out of cash.
NOTE: Photos of the trip are posted here: http://picasaweb.google.com/agrunspan
Great Tinamou (heard only)
Gray-headed Chachalaca
Crested Bobwhite
Black-eared Wood-Quail
Brown Booby
Brown Pelican
Neotropic Cormorant
Magnificent Frigatebird
Great Egret
Snowy Egret
Cattle Egret
Yellow-crowned Night-Heron
White Ibis
Glossy Ibis
Black Vulture
Turkey Vulture
Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture
Gray-headed Kite
Swallow-tailed Kite
Double-toothed Kite
Barred Hawk
White Hawk
Gray Hawk
Savanna Hawk
Short-tailed Hawk
Crested Caracara
Yellow-headed Caracara
Bat Falcon
Gray-necked Wood-Rail
Uniform Crake (only seen by Dan, so not added to Avi's and my life list)
Southern Lapwing
Black-necked Stilt
Wattled Jacana
Laughing Gull
Royal Tern
Rock Pigeon
Pale-vented Pigeon
Scaled Pigeon
Mourning Dove
Plain-breasted Ground-Dove
Ruddy Ground-Dove
Blue Ground-Dove
White-tipped Dove
Orange-chinned Parakeet
Blue-fronted Parrotlet
Blue-headed Parrot
Yellow-crowned Amazon
Squirrel Cuckoo
Striped Cuckoo
Smooth-billed Ani
Groove-billed Ani
Tropical Screech-Owl
Mottled Owl
Common Nighthawk
White-collared Swift
Rufous-breasted Hermit
Green Hermit
Stripe-throated Hermit
Veraguan Mango
Violet-headed Hummingbird
Rufous-crested Coquette
Green Thorntail
Garden Emerald
Violet-crowned Woodnymph
Sapphire-throated Hummingbird
Blue-chested Hummingbird
Snowy-bellied Hummingbird
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Snowcap
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer
Long-billed Starthroat
Orange-bellied Trogon
Blue-crowned Motmot
Rufous Motmot
Broad-billed Motmot
Ringed Kingfisher
Green Kingfisher
Blue-throated Toucanet
Collared Aracari
Keel-billed Toucan
Red-crowned Woodpecker
Lineated Woodpecker
Red-faced Spinetail
Plain Xenops
Northern Barred-Woodcreeper
Cocoa Woodcreeper
Spotted Woodcreeper
Brown-billed Scythebill
Great Antshrike
Barred Antshrike
Plain Antvireo
Dusky Antibird
White-bellied Antbird
Chestnut-backed Antbird
Dull-mantled Antbird
Bicolored Antbird
Black-faced Antthrush
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
Lesser Elaenia
Olive-striped Flycatcher
Paltry Tyrannulet
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant
Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant
Common Tody-Flycatcher
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher
Yellow-olive Flycatcher
White-throated Spadebill
Bran-colored Flycatcher
Common Tufted-Flycatcher
Tropical Peewee
Bright-rumped Attila
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Panama Flycatcher
Lesser Kiskadee
Great Kiskadee
Boat-billed Flycatcher
Social Flycatcher
Streaked Flycatcher
Piratic Flycatcher
Tropical Kingbird
Fork-tailed Flycatcher
Thrush-like Schiffornis
White-winged Becard
Masked Tityra
Golden-collared Manakin
White-ruffed Manakin
Lance-tailed Manakin
Yellow-green Vireo
Scrub Greenlet
Golden-fronted Greenlet
Lesser Greenlet
Black-chested Jay
Gray-breasted Martin
Mangrove Swallow
Blue-and-white Swallow
Southern Rough-winged Swallow
Bay Wren
Rufous-breasted Wren
Rufous-and-white Wren
Plain Wren
House Wren
Ochraceous Wren
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren
Long-billed Gnatwren
Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush
Pale-vented Thrush
Clay-colored Thrush (Robin)
White-throated Thrush
Tropical Mockingbird
Rufous-capped Warbler
Bananaquit
Common Bush-Tanager
Black-and-yellow Tanager
Rosy Thrush-Tanager
Dusky-faced Tanager
Tawny-crested Tanager
White-lined Tanager
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager
Hepatic Tanager
Crimson-backed Tanager
Blue-gray Tanager
Palm Tanager
Plain-colored Tanager
Silver-throated Tanager
Bay-headed Tanager
Golden-hooded Tanager
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis
Green Honeycreeper
Shining Honeycreeper
Red-legged Honeycreeper
Blue-black Grassquit
Slate-colored Seedeater
Variable Seedeater
Yellow-bellied Seedeater
Ruddy-breasted Seedeater
Yellow-faced Grassquit
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch
Orange-billed Sparrow
Black-striped Sparrow
Streaked Saltator
Buff-throated Saltator
Black-headed Saltator
Black-faced Grosbeak
Red-breasted Blackbird
Eastern Meadowlark
Great-tailed Grackle
Shiny Cowbird
Giant Cowbird
Yellow-billed Cacique
Crested Oropendola
Chestnut-headed Oropendola
Yellow-crowned Euphonia
Thick-billed Euphonia
White-vented Euphonia
Tawny-capped Euphonia