Spain, Extremadura & Sierra Gredos - 10th - 17th May 2008

Extremadura & Gredos Mountains: May 10-17 2008

Eric Barnes & Philip Thompson

Day 1 (10th May)

The Naturetrek group finally assembled en mass at the Madrid baggage reclaim with some anxious moments when Eric's luggage (and more importantly much of his birding paraphernalia) did not appear when the luggage carousel shut down. Fortuitously, his suit case did actual make the transfer from Heathrow Terminal 5 to Madrid.

We had a smooth exit from Madrid under a large belt of rain, and any attempt to bird en route was limited. A possible Black shouldered Kite at an inconvenient point on the motorway and a flyover Black winged Stilt were the highlight of the 3.5 hour journey to Trujillo. It was drizzling a little when we reached the Finca Santa Marta, but this soon worsened. At the Finca Woodlark sang over head, a couple of Pallid Swifts collected nesting material ,the Fincas own White Storks with their accompanying Spanish Sparrows, Hoopoe, several Iberian Azure winged Magpie, 2 Bee-eaters, 2 Turtle Doves , a couple of Serin, Stonechat, Crested Lark and the ever present Corn Bunting were notched up in a very short period. The weather was certainly disappointing, but at least the birds hadn't deserted us completely.

A warm introduction to the Finca and its history by our host Henri was fascinating and alcohol filled. We were horrified to hear that he had arranged for us to dine at the infamous 'La Troya' the following day. Wet weather and a meal at La Troya was not the start to the week that we wanted! Thankfully we were able to establish that the Restaurant Pillente was indeed open, and we successfully secured a table for 16. There was much relief that last years nightmare dining experience did not have to be repeated.

Day 2.

Wanting to make the most of the early morning we set off early for a pre-breakfast trip to Belen Plain. It was decidedly cool and breezy. Belen is within 20 minutes of the Finca making it ideal for a short foray to see steppe birds. Calandra Larks were singing everywhere on arrival, and soon we were treated to a displaying Great Bustard, Little Bustards quickly followed and over the next hour we saw at least 8 Great and an equal number of Little. A total of 5 Stone Curlew, a couple of exceedingly close Great spotted Cuckoos, multiple Hoopoes, and a steady stream of raptors .

After a hearty breakfast, and a quick stop at the Bullring where we were able to scrutinize the pale toenails of the resting Lesser Kestrels before moving on to the Northern Trujillo-Caceras steppes. Griffon, Black and Egyptian Vultures circled slowly at our first stop, an obliging Southern Grey Shrike, more Iberian Azure winged Magpies and a large flock of Spanish Sparrows. A stop by the Rio Tamuja produced fly over Short toed and Booted Eagles, 2 Kingfishers , Red rumped Swallows, Crested Larks, several European Pond Terrapins , a Spanish Psammodromus & a Little Ringed Plover.

A little further along the road past Santa Marta de Magasca we were treated to a high density of Montague Harriers, nesting Rollers and more Lesser Kestrels. It was apparent that the high number of birds had slowed down our progress and we were not going to make it to our intended picnic spot. We decided to consume lunch on a quiet track where there were 3 species of lark including Short toed. A gentle drive home through the steppes produced a flock of 30 Black bellied Sandgrouse, a male Black eared Wheatear and an unexpected summer plumage Spotted Redshank at Emblaze de Guadiloba. The heavens opened as we approached Trujillo and we were glad to have some time to sort our selves out prior to dining out in the lovely Restaurant Pillente.

Day 3

The brief early morning was spent exploring the Finca where we saw 4 male Golden Orioles, a glorious Bee-eater basking in the morning sun, Iberian Azure winged Magpie, several Hoopoes, Sardinian Warbler and Nightingale.

A quick stop to pick up essential picnic provisions en route to Monfrague and soon we were at Pena Falcon. Swirling clouds of Griffon Vultures, nesting Black Storks, Rock Buntings at our feet, Blue Rock Thrush, singing Black Redstart, and a pair of nesting Sub alpine Warblers left no doubt that we were where we wanted to be. A stop at the first bridge provided us with 5 Alpine Swifts and hundreds of nesting hirundines. Soon it was time for our picnic and a little Rioja. Lunch was spent in the pleasant shade of a pine wood with Crested Tit, Golden Oriole, Iberian Azure winged Magpie, and Griffon Vultures at close range. Our batteries were truly recharged and we moved on to the Portilla de Tietar in search of Eagle Owl. Once again we scored and we had extended views of the well developed 2 young birds. More Short toed and Booted Eagles drifted over , and Black Storks showed well.

We headed back to Pena Falcon, but not before picking up another Black eared Wheatear, Dartford Warbler and 4 Thekla Larks. It was about 5 pm and the raptors were more active. Reward came in the form of a close eye level view of an adult Bonelli’s Eagle being mobbed by a Raven.

Sadly our time in the park was up, but the absence of any Aquila Eagles today meant we were destined to return tomorrow. A typical Spanish meal at the Finca and were in the mood for a little night birding. Red necked Nightjar and Scops Owl were heard but unfortunately not enticed into view.

Day 4

Another pre-breakfast run for Belen plains set off to secure the bustards for those who didn't have the energy on day 2 for the 7 o'clock start. A dozen Great Bustards and 8 Little Bustards including several doing their distinctive wing flashing display made the early trip worthwhile. Another Great spotted Cuckoo, and we reached Calandra Lark saturation point. A grounded Black Vulture and a couple of Egyptian Vultures waited patiently for a thermal to get them home, whilst a perched Little Owl added interest. The trip was brief as we had a long day a head of us.

By 9.30 we were en route to Emblaze de Arrocampo. After collecting keys for the hides, the groups split to cover the circular route from both ends. Unfortunately, the team working the walk in reverse found their path impeded and they had to double back, but not before finding Bearded Tit and several Great White Egrets.
Prior to getting into Hide 1 several Little Bitterns, pre-historic Purple Swamp-hens, a couple more Booted Eagles, Great Reed and a Savi’s Warbler showed well in full song. The 2^nd hide held more goodies with Spoonbill, more Swamp-hens, Little Terns, a Purple Heron colony and a Black shouldered Kite patrolling for its lunch.

The weather closed in and whilst the group sheltered from the rain in the hides watching the available wildlife spectacle, Phil and Eric tried their best to set up a picnic in unpleasant conditions.

We braved on and a couple of roadside Golden Orioles and a few Bee-eaters greeted us as we approached Monfrague. Finally, the weather had improved.

The Eagle Owls apparently fledged shortly before we arrived at the Portilla de Tietar , but several Black Storks remained evident. Our main target bird, a Spanish Imperial Eagle soared majestically overhead allowing prolonged views. No sooner had it left our sight, a sub adult Golden Eagle appeared bringing our raptor total to a respectable tally of 16 species.

We ran out of time to do any serious walking and decided to try our luck from the top of Monfrague castle. The more energetic of us made it to the top and were rewarded with close views of Chough and Griffons. It was a great way to end a 5 star day.

Day 5

The final day at the Finca and Charles' alarm clock was not to let him down again. Time was short, but we successfully managed to see both species of Bustard, including a Great in full display. A roadside, point blank Little Owl unfortunately did not stay long enough to be recorded for posterity.

All too soon we had to say goodbye to the Finca. The drive to the Sierra Gredos was supposed to include a roadside stop for coffee and Spanish Ibex. The Ibex showed just before the rising fog enshrouded them, but the coffee shop showed no sign of opening and it was only later that we discovered that there was a local saint's day being celebrated.

We did however find some coffee in a little village en route to Bonelli's wood. Red Kites and Black Vultures sailed past low, presumably because of some nearby carrion.

A few kilometers further and we were in Bonelli's wood. An unexpected Tree Pipit was scoped and Iberian Green Woodpecker called frequently. The latter was seen briefly by one member of the party. A pale phased male Honey Buzzard glided low through the wood causing a commotion.

We were serenaded by Western Bonelli's Warblers, whilst we picnicked. The serenity was intermittently disrupted by the occasional raptor. Another (or the same) pale phase Honey Buzzard, a displaying Hobby, Booted Eagles, Kites and Vultures.

After a tranquil lunch, we drifted towards the El Milano Real Hotel ('The Red Kite') to unwind.

Day 6

A lovely continental breakfast was served and after a quick visit to the supermarket for lunch provisions we set off at a leisurely pace to La Plataforma. Despite the weather we managed cracking views of a pair of Rock thrushes, within 100metres of the car park.

Some loitering around some suitable habitat produced a glorious male Bluethroat at about 15-20metres. Another pair was also located nearby. A couple of dark phase Honey Buzzards slipped in and out of the mist and a regal male Spanish Ibex presumably escorting a herd down a ravine thought better of a second look in our direction. A group of 14 Choughs came up, 2 Water Pipits and several Rock Buntings.

Another picnic and yet another good view of a Honey Buzzard, we began to wonder if Phil had a Honey Buzzard magnet in his picnic basket, A scenic drive to a wood filled with Chaffinchs and Coal Tits did not provide any notable birds. A brief stop at the Parador revealed a male Firecrest and a couple of Iberian Green Woodpeckers called nearby.

Day 7

The last birding day in this exquisite region deserved a final early morning foray. Few made it out for the dawn run, but those were rewarded with a male Red backed Shrike, singing Melodious Warbler and Ortolan Bunting in a roadside field.

Bonelli's wood did not disappoint with Iberian Green Woodpecker, Cuckoo , the said Warblers and a perched Hobby preening. A Red Squirrel managed to stop for a photo.

We hurried back for breakfast and drove up the La Plataforma road in search of more Ortolan Buntings and everyone had good views of these birds. The morning provided more excellent views of Spanish Ibex , Dipper, Bluethroats, and Water Pipits. A torrential downpour disturbed our picnic, but once again a Honey Buzzard mysteriously appeared from nowhere. Those that wanted to put their feet up were returned to the hotel with its nearby spa. The rest of the group gently meandered their way toward Pena Negra.
Before we even left Hoyas del Espino we found a small gropup of Rock Sparrows and had close flight views of Iberian Green Woodpecker. En route to the top we had 2 more male Rock Thrushes, a showy Melodious Warbler, Ortolan Buntings and one group had 3-4 Citril Finch. On way down the leading minibus had eye to eye views of a Honey Buzzard at under 10 metres!

Day 8

A full early morning breakfast and we hit the road for the airport. The journey produced some decent birds including Roller, Bee-eaters, Hoopoe, Black winged Stilt and several Iberian Azure winged Magpies. We checked in at Madrid Airport ending the 3^rd Extremadura & Sierra Gredos Naturetrek tour, which despite unseasonal wet weather we managed to exceed our expectations of bettering last years tally. A grand total of 19 raptors and 146 species made the tour exceptional. It will be quite a challenge to beat this next year.. but we are going to have fun trying!