The Greater Sundas: Borneo, Sumatra, Java and West Malaysia - June - July 2008

Published by Tim Mitzen (timo.mitzen AT

Participants: Tim Mitzen



This was to be my first birding trip to Asia and was lured to the Malay Archipelago because of its richness in avian endemics, relative affordability and spectacular mammals. The trip was a success and I managed to identify 407 birds and 55 mammals in just under two months of fairly intense birding. Birding was on my own for most of the trip except for the Kinabatangan River, Poring Hot Springs, Kerinci, Way Kambas where I was fortunate enough to enjoy the unplanned company of others. The only time a guide was hired/used was at the Kinabatangan River, where Robert Chong knows the river better than anyone (and owns the lodge). The only arrangements that were made prior to the trip were with Pak Subandi in Kerinci and Robert Chong in Kinabatangan which were necessary to reserve accommodation and so on. I used AirAsia (booked ahead also) for 6 of my domestic flights and was lucky to have no problems at all with any of them (apart from having to make my carry on heavier than my checked bag each flight to achieve the weight limit).

There are already many trip reports on the internet covering this area and all of the sites I have visited on my trip are well-established in the birding world. As I now find that I have lost all of my notes for the costs and expenses I incurred throughout the trip, this report will serve to give a general idea of what may be expected of a similar trip. I have given some details to specific locations I have seen birds, but the reality is that most of the birds I saw could really be anywhere at these sites by just walking the trails/roads day after day. I used an iPod loaded with sounds from Birds of Tropical Asia 3 and various internet sources to help train my ears and to call in some of the shyer birds when possible and responsive. iPod’s will do, but I don’t recommend for birding as they can only be charged with electricity (as opposed to extra batteries) which can be a problem sometimes. I also had problems with the iPod freezing up several times for unknown reasons, which was only fixed by running the battery completely down and recharging.

Book References:

A Field Guide to the Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java and Bali; John MacKinnon and Karen Phillipps (1993)
Field Guide to the Birds of West Malaysia and Singapore; Allen Jeyarajasingam and Alan Pearson (1999)
Birding Indonesia: A Bird-watcher’s Guide to the World’s Largest Archipelago; Paul Jepson (1997)
A Birdwatcher’s Guide to Malaysia; John Bransbury (1993)
A Field Guide to the Mammals of Borneo; Junaidi Payne and Charles Francis (1998)
A Guide to the Mammals of Southeast Asia; Charles Francis (2008)
Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei (2007)

Trip Report References:

Birding Gunung Kerinici, Sumatra, Indonesia by Dave Sargeant

Sumatra, Indonesia by Henk Hendriks (maps)

Budget Twitcher’s Guide to Birdwatching in Sumatra by James Heng (maps)

Birding in Malaysia by Frank Rheindt

Malaysia – Taman Negara by Paul Jones

Sabah, Penn. Malaysia & S. Thailand by Moira and Graeme Wallace

Birding Sabah’s Lowland Forests, Malaysian Borneo by Dave Gandy

Malaysia, Borneo by Rich Lindie

Other websites:

Danum Valley Field Center

Asian Bird Sounds/Xeno Canto Asia

Mauro Angke website (Indonesian):


June 6th – Early morning flight from KL to KK on AirAsia then minibus to Gunung Emas Highland Resort
June 7th – Return to KK for flight to Sandakan at noon. Picked up at airport by Robert Chong and transfer to Labuk B&B in Sipilok for late afternoon birding at forest reserve
June 8th – Morning birding with Robert Chong and Simon Cockayne at Sipilok Forest Reserve then transfer to Kinabatangan Jungle Camp
June 9th– Kinabatangan River area
June 10th – Kinabatangan River area
June 11th – Kinabatangan River in morning then transfer by Robert to the Sukau Junction then on to Lahad Datu to visit DFVC office then up to the field centre with their transport
June 12th – Danum Valley Field Centre
June 13th – Danum Valley Field Centre
June 14th – Danum Valley Field Centre
June 15th – Danum Valley Field Centre
June 16th – Danum Valley Field Centre
June 17th – Danum Valley Field CentreJune 18th – Last minute birding at DVFC then transport back to Lahad Datu. Bus from Lahad Datu to Kinabalu National Park main entrance
June 19th – Kinabalu National Park trails
June 20th – Kinabalu National Park trails
June 21st – Kinabalu National Park trails
June 22nd – Kinabalu National Park trails
June 23rd – Poring Hot Springs with Rob Hutchinson and Martin Kennewell then bus back to KK and minibus up to Gunung Emas Highland Resort
June 24th – Birding Rafflesia Center area then hitching back to KK
June 25th – Morning flight to KL then bus/train/taxi to Frasier’s Hill
June 26th – Frasier’s Hill area
June 27th – Frasier’s Hill area
June 28th – Frasier’s Hill area
June 29th – Frasier’s Hill area
June 30th – Frasier’s Hill birding in morning then taxi/bus to Taman Negara
July 1st – Taman Negara
July 2nd – Taman Negara
July 3rd – Taman Negara
July 4th – Taman Negara
July 5th – Taman Negara
July 6th – Taman Negara
July 7th – Morning birding Taman Negara then bus to KL
July 8th – AirAsia flight from KL to Padang followed by taxi transfer to Kersik Tua and Kerinci
July 9th – Gunung Kerinci
July 10th – Gunung Kerinci
July 11th – Gunung Kerinci
July 12th – Gunung Kerinci
July 13th – Gunung Kerinci
July 14th – Gunung Kerinci
July 15th – Morning birding then Kerinci to Padang via Pak Subandi’s vehicle then flight Padang to Jakarta
July 16th – Jakarta shopping then on to Gunung Gede-Pangrango via train/bus
July 17th – Gede-Pangrango
July 19th – Gede-Pangrango
July 20th – Gede-Pangrango
July 21st – Morning birding Gede-Pangrango then bus transfer to Jakarta
July 22nd – Sriwijaya flight from Jakarta to Bandar Lampung then taxi transfer to Way Kanan
July 23rd – Way Kambas birding with George Wagner, Rich Hopf and Stephane Charpentier
July 24th – Way Kambas
July 25th – Way Kambas
July 26th – Morning birding at Way Kambas then taxi transfer to Bakauheni then by ferry/bus to Jakarta
July 27th – Morning birding Mauro Angke then flight from Jakarta to KL and on to the USA

Site Notes:


Gunung Emas Highland Resort/Rafflesia Center

Visited my first and last days in Sabah. The first time I went up I was still suffering from jetlag and time was too crunched to do it properly (didn’t see anything of note) but saw everything in one morning on my second visit.


Gunung Emas is about 1 ½ hours from KK via minibuses (15 Rgt) which leave from the bus station (called ‘Old Long-Distance Bus Station’ in the Lonely Planet) on Jalan Padang and serve Tambunan. This station is a very short walk from cheap accommodation in Jalan Gaya area. Once there, Gunung Emas has Tree Cabins and slightly cheaper rooms above the restaurant (around 50 Rgt) and some birding opportunities. All birding efforts in this area should be focused on birding the area along the road about 8 km up from the Gunung Emas both before and after the Rafflesia Center. I found all target species about 2km before Rafflesia Center to 3km after (towards Tambunan) and did not enter the center itself as there were no flowers in bloom to see while I was there. If relying on public transport, buses can be few and/or full along this road (both at Gunung Emas or higher up towards the Center) but will stop if you wave them down and there’s room. Hitching a ride, either up or down, is often worthwhile as you can spend lots of time waiting for a bus to come by. Without transport, I opted a pre-dawn hike on foot to the birding area around the Rafflesia Center on my second visit to ensure I would be in position by slightly after dawn.


Whitehead’s Spiderhunter – excellent views had of one feeding in the trees above a big green sign on the left side of the road about 1 ½ - 2km before the Center. There is a small clearing/pullout there.
Golden-naped Barbet – many feeding in a fruiting tree on the left about 20m before Rafflesia Center
Fruit-hunter – two seen in the same tree as above
Bornean (Black-crested) Bulbul – common anywhere along the road
Bornean Barbet – calling/feeding on left side of road past Rafflesia Center between KM20 road marker (about 1 ½ km past center) and the abandoned waterfall attraction at the bend and bottom of the hill at 10 am.
Mountain Barbet – seen at same location as above but many more heard
Mountain Serpent-Eagle – perched and calling roadside at same location as barbets above
Giant Swiftlet - seen flying overhead in same general area but further down around curve past waterfall attraction
Mountain Blackeye – Gunung Emas Resort gardens
Kinabalu Leafbird – same as above


Pygmy White-eye – possibly seen in Fruit-hunter tree above but too brief to say for sure; Jambu Fruit-Dove – seen at a fruiting tree in the area by others about a week before I went but none on my visit

Kinabalu National Park

Spent 4 full days birding the lower trails (didn’t access summit trail past Tymphon Gate at all) and one morning at Poring Hot Springs.


There is much information already about this site so I’ll give just a bit. The main park entrance is 1 ½ - 2 hours via bus from KK (15 Rgt) and around 4 hours from Lahad Datu. My bus back to KK ended at the bus stop mentioned above on Jalan Padang so I assume that’s where they would leave from as well. I stayed at the inexpensive dorm room of the D’Villa Rina Ria Lodge (+60 88-889282; situated 500m outside of main entrance down main road towards Lahad Datu and walked into the park each day no problem. I can recommend this hotel as the owner was very, very nice and helpful and cooked cheap meals for me (sometimes at no charge) as well. Park entrance fee was 15 Rgt which I paid twice…..still not sure if you’re supposed to pay daily but they seemed pretty relaxed about it. The biggest problem I had was accessing the Tymphon Gate/Bukit Ular Trail area early enough in the morning. Without a car, the walk up the road early morning is steep (but doable with an early enough start) though I opted not, accepting a dip. Regular park vans do leave for Tymphon Gate from the office next to Reception at the entrance for a small fee but not early enough for Everett’s Thrush searches. I hiked just about all of the trails in the park below Tymphon Gate and found most all of the specialties on them, with the Liwagu and Silau-Silau trails being the best. Poring Hot Springs was visited just one morning at the end of my stay with other birders who had a car and gave me a lift.


Red-breasted Partridge – seen once; 3 birds heard calling then seen just off the road between the main restaurant area and the hostels near one of the shelters that was in construction along the roadside
Crimson-headed Partridge – seen twice, both times walking quietly along the trail; once just inside the forest at the beginning of the Liwagu trail where it starts not far from the road to the canteen near the bottom of the park and once at the very top of the Liwagu trail just before it meets with the road near the Tymphon Gate
Whitehead’s Trogon – seen twice; female between bridges where Silau-Silau and Liwagu trails parallel each other in lower part of the park and a splendid male seen near the very lush area of Liwagu trail just after the trail drops down to the Liwagu River about 500 meters north of Silau-Silau trail ending
Whitehead’s Broadbill – seen once; heard calling one evening and then two seen on Mempening Trail about 120 meters from its start at Silau-Silau trail
Fruit-hunter – several in mixed flock once; same as above but about 300 meters up Mempening Trail
Black-sided Flowerpecker – several near botanical gardens area and employee gymnasium buildings
Mountain Wren-Babbler – seen twice in small groups; once on middle of Kiau View Trail and once along mid-upper Liwagu trail
Bornean Stubtail – seen once; middle of Kiau View Trail where it had a nest in the overhanging growth of the trail embankment not far from a landslide area
Eye-browed Jungle-Flycatcher – seen several times; mid Liwagu Trail and Silau Silau Trail near restaurant. A really modest but attractive flycatcher that I enjoyed seeing each time.
Hose’s Broadbill – male and female seen well several times at Poring right after the trail plateau’s out above the bat cave. They were calling when we got to this point of the trail and saw them trailside.


Everett’s Thrush – as lamented above, an excepted dip as I didn’t get up to Bukit Ular trail early enough; Kinabalu Friendly Warbler – didn’t even try for but apparently easier at Mesilau trailhead area

Kinabatangan River / Sipilok

Birded the Sipilok forest reserve with Robert Chong one evening and morning before two full and two half days on the Kinabatangan.


Accommodation was organized by Robert and the Labuk B&B in Sipilok and his Kinabatangan Jungle Camp were used. Robert charged 1500 Rgt for everything from airport pick up the first day to drop off at Sukau junction the final day. We did 6 boat trips on the river, each lasting up to 5 hours depending on the weather. One night boat trip was included as well. We tried hard for Bornean Ground-Cuckoo each day but was heard only (seen the day after I left unfortunately). Robert was a great guide and very enjoyable personality to be around and his services are recommended. He can be contacted at


• 6 Hornbill species including White-crowned, Helmeted and Rhinoceros -- Kinabatangan
Black-crowned Pitta -- Sipilok forest reserve
Blue-headed Pitta – my favorite pitta of the trip; Mennangol River area
Hooded Pitta – several around the Kinabatangan
Storm’s Stork – fairly common (for now) on the Kinabatangan and seen daily
White-fronted Falconet – seen once on Kinabatangan
Brown Hawk-Owl – called in after dark behind my cabin at Labuk B&B
Jerdon’s Baza – once on Kinabatangan

Danum Valley Field Center

I originally booked 3 full days and 2 halves but added two more days while I was there to come to grips with the Bristlehead.


I called and spoke with Susan (60-089-880441) nearly 2 months in advance for my reservations and had no problems at all getting on. They seem very flexible with changes once you are there (as long as they aren’t fully booked up) but it is very important to call and book your stay in advance to begin with in order to get a spot on the transport, etc. I stayed one night in the hostel (66Rgt/night) then moved to the campground (30 Rgt/night) for the rest, which I had completely to myself. The campground was a row of canvas stretchers under a roof with another roofed ‘dining’ area and bathrooms with running water. Overpriced and rustic but in a fantastic birding area who can ask for more. I strung up a mozzy net and covertly borrowed some blankets from the hostel and settled right in there. I opted to take two meals a day, breakfast (18 Rgt) and dinner (28 Rgt), to cut costs and managed to make sandwiches and other snacks out of the buffet-style breakfast to use for lunch on the trails. There was also an entry permit fee (30 Rgt), camera fee (5 Rgt) and transport charge (don’t remember how much but 75 rgt maybe). There is a trail map available at the store in the Field Centre for 1 Ringgit and they also sell sodas, candy and other snacks there. During my stay I hiked some of the grid trail (mainly W0-W10), the trail to the waterfall, nature trail and about 4km of the entrance road. I found Danum Valley to be the most difficult birding conditions of my trip. The climate was hot and and very humid so I was soaked in sweat from the moment I woke up until I went to bed. In addition, the trails were all very muddy and the leaches were very numerous, but the birds and the mammals were great and made it all worthwhile in the end. A great bonus to the experience was having a large fruiting tree right at the beginning of the road to the campground in fruit during my whole stay which produced many birds (hornbills especially) and mammals (binturong an orangutan among others) and provided hours of enjoyment during the heat of the day.


• Blue-banded Pitta – once; after a tip from Dave Edwards was located along the waterfall trail after the trail branches off to the right up on the ridge to go towards the waterfall, there is a 50m stretch not far before the waterfall where the trail is fairly straight and level though sloping down. On both sides of the trail there are steep slopes down but the bird was found, after descending off-trail about 50m, on the right side. Banded Pitta was also seen not far from here and Dave has seen Chestnut-capped Thrush on the trail here several times though I did not.
Bristlehead – a dozen seen one morning in two different groups 2-3km out on the entrance road
Black-crowned Pitta – once though not trying for it; N2W0 on grid trail
Blue-headed Pitta – once though not trying for it; female near W10 on grid trail
Chestnut-necklaced Partridge – one once; about W3 on grid trail calling and giving great views
Black-throated Wren-Babbler – heard one day then seen the next; almost near the top of the big hill that the trail to the waterfall first climbs after its start near the tree platform. Two trails leave the nature trail area towards the waterfall and meet up later on, this was on the trail further east that does not follow the river. This is very close to where Rich Lindie describes seeing one in his trip report.
Large-billed Blue-Flycatcher – scope views roadside about 3 km out on the entrance road while doing some casual road birding with Dave Edwards one late afternoon


Bornean Wren-Babbler – tried hard daily but didn’t even hear any; Great Argus – ditto; Giant Pitta – calling just after 1st unbridged stream crossing on W (10ish) grid trail but not seen; Bornean Ground-Cuckoo – calling at same time as Giant Pitta (same place) and frustratingly close but never seen; Buller’s Pheasant – brief poor view of a Lophura at Blue-banded Pitta site still makes me wonder

West Malaysia

Frasier’s Hill

I spent 4 ½ days birding the trails around Frasier’s Hill, the road down to the Gap and a little around the Gap itself. Only birded the first few Km’s at the top of the new road, which was closed to traffic due to landslides.


From the AirAsia LCCT there are several bus companies with service to KL Sentral (10 Rgt). From KL Sentral I took the KTM Commuter train to Rawang then transferred there to another train that continued on to Kuala Kubu Bharu (both inexpensive). From KKB I got a taxi (70 Rgt) up to Frasier’s Hill as I was informed that buses no longer service the Frasier’s Hill area. It seemed unlikely to me that there was no longer bus service along the route from KKB to Raub either but was told by several people that it had been discontinued for the present, making taxi the only real way to access the site. Once at Frasier’s Hill I learned that the Puncak Inn would be closed until sometime in 2009 for renovation, at which point it will no longer be the cheapest bed in town. I was directed by the folks at FHDC (town information office) to Jelai Highland Resort ( which is now the new cheapest place in town where I paid a bit less than the posted 90 Rgt/night as I didn’t take the included breakfast. I enjoyed staying at Jelai as I had a clean, spacious room and my balcony had plenty of birds feeding in the trees just a meter away. A man by the name of Darvis was in charge there and was very nice and helpful with everything, even arranging for my clothes to be washed and a car and driver (80 Rgt) to take me down to Raub when it was time to go. I recommend the place as it isn’t terribly far from some of the good birding trails either.


Malaysian Partridge – seen twice; both sightings on Bishop’s trail with the first being fantastic views at dusk of a covey flying up one by one into low branches just meters off the trail to roost. This was just 10 meters down the trail to the left of the middle shelter (if sitting in it facing out).
Mountain Scops-Owl – one flushed up from day roost about 1 km down Pine Tree Trail; others heard
Streaked Wren-Babbler – seen twice along first 50 meters of Bishop’s Trail
Marbled Wren-Babbler – once; three birds heard calling then seen at gully about 2km up old road from The Gap. Looking back through other trip reports now, this must be the same gully others have seen them in the past. If going up, it is after a big sign with a map on the left which is at a right-hand bend from which the road continues for a few hundred more meters until getting to a very sharp left-hand curve sided by rocks as guard-rails on both sides. This is the gully on the right. They were tossing leaves around and singing intermittently just 10 meters off the roadside and in full view for minutes.
Bamboo Woodpecker – seen twice; once in bamboo along road to FH about 400 meters up from The Gap and then again in bamboo 300 meters down from The Gap along road towards KKB
Pin-tailed Parrotfinch – 5 birds seen once in bamboo 250 meters down from The Gap towards KKB while waiting out a rainstorm under some trees near a roadside clearing/pulloff on the right if going to KKB
Malaysian Whistling-Thrush – seen once at first light on the road near Jelai Resort


Mountain Peacock-Pheasant – had been seen a week before I came about 200 meters down Pine Tree Trail but did not show for me; Rusty-naped Antpitta – up to 4 heard along first 100 meters of Bishop’s Trail but did not come in for views; Cutia – was told after I left FH that it is being seen along the lower part of a road that heads off uphill before the Polis Station (near the gate at the top of the old road) and leads up to some bungalows (Istana ?)

Taman Negara

Spent 6 full days and one morning birding trails (Kumbang Hide via Kuala Trenggan (overnight), Jenut Muda, Lubok Simpon and Blau Hide) and resort grounds. I was very impressed with this park and found the birding most enjoyable and was one of the cheapest places I visited, hitting US$9/day.


Cheaply and easily accessed by bus/minibus from Jerantut via road to Kuala Tahan in 1 hour. I did not take the river trip in as I wanted to save time and had already spent lots of time on boats in the Kinabatangan. Tons of cheap lodging in Kuala Tahan (9 Rgt/night dorm) and cheap food on the floating restaurants (good satay after 7pm). Boats cross the river to the resort from 7am to 11pm for minimal fee. I did not take any boat trips or guided hikes organized by the park so cannot comment on them though I can say with certainty that I saw more on my own than the bumbling park-organized night-hikes did (in short, don’t waste your time). Most nightlife was along the trail from the picnic area to the Lubok Simpon. The large tree in front of the hostel held fruit which was good for some species and worth checking even if you’re not staying there.


Crestless Fireback – 3 walking on the trail 75 meters from Kumbang Hide on trail towards Kuala Trenggan early morning
Malaysian Rail-Babbler – heard and seen one evening then again the following morning where the Swamp Loop trail meets (both at its entrance and exit) with the ‘Back Loop’ Trail. Heard along trail to Blau Hide, Jenut Muda and Lubuk Simpon areas.
Garnet Pitta – seen high up in a tree calling about 300 meters before Blau Hide where the trail parallels a small ravine. Heard along trail half-way between jetty opposite resort and Orang Asli village (trail to Blau Hide area) and two heard on Jenut Muda between the riverbed crossings.
Malaysian Peacock-Pheasant – seen well along trail to Blau Hide, not far from where it meets trail to the bat cave. Heard close by around Janut Muda several times and heard at night from Kumbang Hide.
Large-Wren Babbler – seen twice; once between riverbed crossings on Janut Muda and once near Kumbang Hide. Others heard at various locations.
Large Green-Pigeon – seen twice; many visiting fruiting tree at crest of large hill at start of trail towards Blau Hide from jetty opposite resort and 6+ seen in trees at far side of Kumbang Hide clearing at dusk
Reddish Scops-Owl – calling and seen near the picnic area near start of trail to Lubok Simpon at night


Great Argus – several heard near Janut Muda but not seen; Bay Owl – up to 4 heard at once near old pump house along trail to Lubok Simpon but not seen; Gould’s Frogmouth – one heard at same place as Bay Owls but not seen; Blue-banded Kingfisher – spent lots of time at Lubok Simpon looking but couldn’t find any; Jambu Fruit-Dove – seen a week before I arrived in fruiting trees in resort grounds but none present during my stay


Gunung Kerinci

Spent 5 full days on the mountain and one on Tapan Road. I made arrangements for taxi from Padang and lodging at Pak Subandi’s Homestay with Pak two months in advance. He is reached at 62-748- 357009 (evenings best). Cost for room, food and transport to/from Kersik Tua and car for Tapan road amounted to nearly 3,000,000 Rp. Fixed costs of transport being the most expensive item (800,000/day) which I was unable to split with others due to differing travel schedules. I shared space and rides up to the mountain with three other birders (George Wagner, Rich Hopf and Stephane Charpentier) during my stay though we all split up when birding on the mountain to maximize our individual efforts on the trails. The one trail up the mountain is not too strenuous and I only went as high as the first campsite above the ‘burnt out tree’ area once. Most of the birding was between the trail start and Air Minum clearing (up to Camp Cochoa several times), the dry river bed and “Pak Subandi Trail” between Base camp shelter and Air Minim (see James Heng’s map given above) Birding was slow and success in locating the endemics generally few and far between which is what makes keeping the up the moral difficult when you’re continually walking back and forth on the same trail all day. We took all food up with us for the day and would typically spend from pre-dawn to about 8pm each day birding (15 hour days). I saw about half of the endemics and took the dips on the rest, happy with my time and ready to leave in the end.


Red-billed Partridge – heard several days and a pair seen well once just above Air Minum
Salvadori’s Pheasant – seen twice; male and female at Air Minum investigating some rice I threw down there one evening and male, female and small chicks on trail between Air Minum and Basecamp another
Sumatran Trogon – seen three times at different locations on trail; a pair seemed to be on territory around a bunch of fallen trees on the “Pak Subandi” Trail below Air Minum
Schneider’s Pitta – seen three times; two on the trail within 5 minutes of starting my first day on the mountain was a nice start before banana clearing, also on trail below Air Minum and heard singing other times above and at Air Minum
Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler – singing daily and probably the easiest endemic on the mountain to see
Barred Eagle-Owl – heard often in ravines but seen once at dusk emerging from forest and perched prominently near start of trail and forest edge
Graceful Pitta – heard 4-5 in different gullies on Tapan Rd but only managed to see one which was in the first gully on the right, just past a small flowing stream just off the road when coming down from the Park headquarters. This is before the traditional gullies and Pak’s son should know the spot now if he’s driving. I heard it calling and whistled its call back to it until it stopped calling and then I saw it coming in silently below me for some knock-out views!


Sumatran Wren-Babbler – heard only once by me and seen briefly by 2 of other 3 birders; Sumatran Cochoa – not a sniff; Sumatran Frogmouth – heard most nights but not responding to tapes; Rajah Scops-Owl – heard once; Sumatran Leafbird – none seen on Tapan Rd; Sumatran Peacock-Pheasant – heard calling late afternoon down the Graceful Pitta gully, on the other side of road down towards the big valley, but I was already in position and minutes away from a great Pitta view

Way Kambas

Spend three full days and a morning and evening here. Managed to coincide my arrival and stay with that of the other birders I had met at Kerinci which really helped cut costs.


We arrived to Bandar Lampung from Jakarta on a 10am Sriwijaya flight (500,000 Rp) and arranged taxi at airport to Way Kanan with stops to get groceries and park permits on the way (400,000 Rp usually but we gave him a bit more for the stops and waiting). Bringing in food to eat and staying in the guesthouse (150,000 Rp/night) at Way Kanan is a fine way to go. They have noodles and a few other small items to buy at the ranger’s house there. Rangers can cook for you if you give them food but will charge a fee. They will provide hot water for free though. There is a list of activities offered in the rangers house and prices for each. Boat trip to see White-winged Duck (450,000 Rp) and birding (day or night 150,000/2-3hrs). Rangers are adamant about not letting you leave the compound on your own for birding which is frustrating but they can’t always be watching you. Most birdwatching is along the main road in but the loop trail can also be good (Banded Pitta). The ranger helped arrange transport to take me from Way Kanan to Bakauheni (ferry to Java) for 500,000 Rp. Two hour ferry to Java was 11,000 Rp but speedboats are available. Once in Merak, Java, the bus station is very close and a short walk away. Find a bus going to Kalideres (16,000 Rp) which is nearer to the Jakarta airport/Mauro Angke than the main bus terminal and can save you some time, money and headache if that is where you are headed anyway.


White-winged Duck – seen twice; two seen well sitting in the swamp then flying and two seen flying above the river closer to Way Kanan the next morning
Sunda Frogmouth – seen two nights; excellent views had the second time as it sat for 10 minutes in plain view
Bonaparte’s Nightjar – seen perched on tree branch over road near first ‘clearing’ (from Way Kanan) along entrance road at dusk. The clearing is not fully cleared and just an area where larger trees near the road are replaced by more brushy, lower growth (still at least a meter or two tall) for some distance in from the road. Listen for its odd dove-like calls.
Cinnamon-headed Green-Pigeon – many seen one morning from the boat in trees along the river maybe a km down from Way Kanan clearing


Large Frogmouth – heard two nights but not seen; Bay Owl – heard nightly but not seen (both of these birds were heard within 2 km of the Way Kanan clearing; Dusky Broadbill – seen by Rich on road


Gunung Gede-Pangrango/Cibodas Botanical Gardens

Spent 4 full days and one morning birding the area with really only one morning devoted to the botanical gardens.


Arrived to Bogor (15,000 Rp) via train from the Gambir Station in Jakarta from where I took a minivan destined for Cipanas which dropped me off at the road to Cibodas which is before Cipanas. From this road there are always minibuses waiting to take people up to Cibodas. I stayed at Freddy’s Homestay and the cost for food/room during my stay amounted to around 700,000 Rp. My stay fell over the weekend and as other trip reports mention, the park is very busy with hikers/campers and it is recommended to avoid the weekends if possible though the birds are still around. I walked up as high as Air Panas three days, going as far as the Gede crater once for the swiftlet. Most birding was on this trail though I checked out the waterfall area one evening and looked around the nearby golf course on a couple of occasions. The pond (in the golf course) near the gate at the start of the golf course road can be good for Javan Kingfisher while the cliffs at the end of the road (past the clubhouse) hold Spotted Kestrels. Freddy’s son Indra is a good birder and available for guiding and knows some steakouts for some things though I did not go out with him.


Javan Cochoa – one seen between 4th and 5th picnic/camping areas from the main junction on the summit trail once
Javan Trogon – same as above; seen once
Javan Hawk-Eagle – one young bird seen once perched in the trees right at the entrance of the park at dawn
Spotted Crocias – seen three days and were all along different parts of the trail
Salvadori’s Nightjar – two seen once; snags around Blue Lake before dawn while still dark
Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush – flock seen once; getting harder here according to Indra, the one flock I encountered was moving across the trail at the 1st big shelter on the summit trail from the main junction
White-bellied Fantail – one once; still occurs in a few mixed flocks in the park. The one I saw was in the 9am flock inside the forest accessed by going up the long set of stairs near the greenhouse/guesthouse in the Botanical Gardens towards a bamboo clearing. Taking the trail that leads into the forest at the right side of this clearing will bring you near an abandoned building, which is where the flock occurs.

Javan Scops-Owl & Javan Frogmouth – both heard but not seen on lower section of main trail (below the Blue Lake); Rufous Woodcock – apparently the main trail/waterfall trail junction is good for them but saw none

Mauro Angke

Spent a morning at this site but got there a bit late due to a confused taxi driver.


I splurged for my last night of the trip and stayed at the Hotel Sanno (330,000 Rp) and from there the site is maybe just 15 minutes away. Bluebird taxi (15,000 Rp one way) is the best so have your hotel call one if you can. Tell taxi you need to go near Pluit Mall (they will know where this is) then to Taman Calam (sounds like Cha-lam) and hopefully they will know this.

If not though, from Pluit Mall you go down Pluit Indah/Pluit Karang cross over two bridges and hit a roundabout where you go to the right. At this roundabout is also the entrance for "Mediterania", a big apartment complex. Once you are going right from the roundabout you're on a pretty big street (called Pantai Indah Utara 2) and the entrance will be on the right side of this street about half-way down.

Google Earth: Longitude: 6° 6'56.36"S Lat: 106°46'0.39"E

Since they have a new boardwalk you supposedly need the permit. I just showed up early, went in and when I ran into a 'ranger' on my way out who tried asking me some things I just smiled a bunch, paid him 20,000 Rp 'entry' (tried 10,000 Rp) and signed a logbook to make things official.


Black-winged Myna – one flying then perched in a large double-tree at the far corner of the open water
Racquet-tailed Treepie – one foraging in the low vegetation towards the end of the boardwalk


Sunda Coucal: Didn’t have much time left before my flight to continue looking for it but I think the earlier you can get there the better chance you will have

Species Lists

Malaysia Sites
KIN – Kinabatangan River
DV – Danum Valley Field Centre
RAF - Rafflesia Center Area
KB – Kinabalu NP
FH – Frasier’s Hill
TN – Taman Negara

Indonesia Sites
GK – Gunung Kerinci
WK – Way Kambas
GG – Gunung Gede-Pangrango
MA – Mauro Angke, Jakarta

Species seen - 407 seen (Species heard only are not included)

Little Cormorant – MA flyovers
Oriental Darter – MA, KIN

Gray Heron – MA
Great-billed Heron – DV
Purple Heron – KIN, WK, MA
Great Egret – KIN, MA
Javan Pond-Heron – MA
Black-crowned Night-Heron – MA
Black Bittern – MA; two birds flushed next to boardwalk

Storm's Stork – KIN
Lesser Adjutant – KIN, WK; common around WK swamps

White-winged Duck -- WK

Jerdon's Baza – KIN
Bat Hawk – DV, WK
Brahminy Kite – KIN, WK
White-bellied Sea-Eagle – KIN
Lesser Fish-Eagle – KIN
Gray-headed Fish-Eagle – KIN, WK
Mountain Serpent-Eagle – RAFF
Crested Serpent-Eagle – KIN, FH
Crested Goshawk – KIN
Rufous-bellied Eagle – FH; soaring above the upper section of the new road
Blyth's Hawk-Eagle – FH; once along Bishop’s Trail
Javan Hawk-Eagle – GG
Wallace's Hawk-Eagle – KIN, WK, Sipilok

Black-thighed Falconet – TN, WK; common at Way Kambas with many sightings
White-fronted Falconet – KIN
Spotted Kestrel – GG; 2 birds perched on cliffs near club house at golf course

Malaysian Partridge – FH
Chestnut-bellied Partridge – GG; seen or at least heard most days
Red-breasted Partridge – KB; three seen once
Red-billed Partridge – GK; pair called in once for great views
Chestnut-necklaced Partridge – DV; once
Crimson-headed Partridge – KB
Crested Partridge – TN; coveys encountered 3 days on various trails
Red Junglefowl – WK male seen; heard only at TN
Green Junglefowl – GG; male on trail lower down one evening
Salvadori's Pheasant – GK; twice
Crestless Fireback – TN; three birds seen near Kumbang Hide once
Crested Fireback – DV, TN, WK; fairly common and sometimes downright brave (TN)
Malayan Peacock-Pheasant – TN; seen once and heard other days

Slaty-breasted Rail – GK; roadside ditch in agro area between forest and tea plantations
White-breasted Waterhen – KB, MA; abundant in good habitat
Ruddy-breasted Crake – MA; two seen foraging in mud below mangroves
White-browed Crake – MA; one seen well but more were around
Black-backed Swamphen – MA; apparently a split from Purple Swamphen
Common Moorhen – MA

Rock Dove – cities and towns
Spotted Dove – cities and towns
Barred Cuckoo-Dove – FH, GK
Little Cuckoo-Dove – RAFF, KB, FH, GK; common
Emerald Dove – Sipilok, KIN, TN, GK, WK; brief views mostly but stayed still in road at WK
Peaceful Dove – Rawang train station Malaysia
Little Green-Pigeon – KIN, TN, WK
Pink-necked Pigeon – KIN, MA
Cinnamon-headed Pigeon – WK; at least 8 birds flying around and sitting in trees along river
Thick-billed Pigeon – DV, TN; mostly seen at fruiting trees
Large Green-Pigeon – TN; seen along Blau Hide trail and at Kumbang Hide clearing
Sumatran Green-Pigeon – GK
Wedge-tailed Pigeon – GK; several visiting fruiting trees in banana clearing
Green Imperial-Pigeon – KIN, DV, WK
Mountain Imperial-Pigeon – RAFF, FH

Blue-rumped Parrot – WK, TN
Blue-crowned Hanging-Parrot – KIN, DV, TN, WK; seen perched only once near hostel at TN
Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot – Cibodas Golf Course and Botanical Gardens

Indian Cuckoo – GG
Sunda Cuckoo – KB; adult near entrance and large baby being fed by Sunda Warbler on Liwagu
Plaintive Cuckoo – DV, Labuk B&B
Violet Cuckoo – DV entrance road
Asian Drongo-Cuckoo – KIN
Black-bellied Malkoha – TN
Chestnut-bellied Malkoha – WK; just the right position needed to see the chestnut
Green-billed Malkoha – FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Raffles's Malkoha – DV, TN, WK; common
Red-billed Malkoha –KIN, WK; once at each place
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha – DV, TN; fun to watch it try and swallow a large lizard whole!
Greater Coucal – Sipilok, KIN, DV, TN, WK

Barn Owl – KB; seen near restaurant outside of park
Reddish Scops-Owl – TN; heard then seen near picnic area on the way to Lubok Simpon
Mountain Scops-Owl – FH; great views after flushed from day roost on Pine Tree trail
Barred Eagle-Owl – GK, hunting the forest edge at dusk; bizarre calls heard daily though
Buffy Fish-Owl – KIN, DV, TN; hangs out around buildings at DV and easily seen
Brown Wood-Owl – TN; perched on post in picnic area one night
Sumatran (Collared) Owlet – GK; seen three times and nest found near Air Minum
Brown Hawk-Owl – Labuk B&B; many heard at WK

Sunda Frogmouth – WK; seen two nights with fantastic views less than 1.5km from Way Kanan

Malaysian Eared-nightjar – TN, WK; only seen in flight at dusk and calling
Bonaparte's Nightjar – WK; once perched on branch and calling
Salvadori's Nightjar – GG; two perched on snags at Blue Lake before sunrise

Waterfall Swift – RAFF
Glossy Swiftlet – RAFF, Sipilok, KB, FH
Cave Swiftlet – GK, GG, MA
Volcano Swiftlet – GG; several seen cruising around the crater of Gede
Silver-rumped Needletail – DV; often cruising around the river
House Swift – FH, TN, Sandakan

Gray-rumped Treeswift – FH, TN, WK
Whiskered Treeswift – DV, GK (Tapan), WK

Sumatran Trogon – GK; four birds total seen in three sightings at various points of trail
Javan Trogon – GG; one bird seen once halfway to Air Panas on main trail
Red-naped Trogon – KIN, DV
Diard's Trogon – KIN, KB (Poring Hot Springs)
Whitehead's Trogon – KB; female and males seen once each on Silau-Silau and Liwagu Trails
Scarlet-rumped Trogon – Sipilok, TN, WK
Red-headed Trogon – FH; four separate sightings on Old road mainly
Orange-breasted Trogon – WK; one bird seen once

Blue-eared Kingfisher – KIN, TN, WK
Small Blue Kingfisher – MA
Black-backed Kingfisher – KIN, DV, TN
Banded Kingfisher – TN; near Oran Asli village on trail to Blau Hide
Stork-billed Kingfisher – KIN, WK
White-throated Kingfisher – TN and other various points en route on Penn. Malaysia
Javan Kingfisher – GG; flyover on Cibodas Golf Course
Collared Kingfisher – GG, Kota Kinabalu, Sipilok and other random places
Sacred Kingfisher – MA; one bird present
Rufous-collared Kingfisher – KB (Poring), TN

Red-bearded Bee-eater – Sipilok, DV, FH, TN, WK
Blue-throated Bee-eater – Sipilok, KIN, DV

Dollarbird – Sipilok, DV, WK, KIN

Oriental Pied-Hornbill – KIN, DV; usually fairly common
Black Hornbill – KIN, DV, WK
Rhinoceros Hornbill – KIN, DV, KB (flying high over Typhon Gate!)
Helmeted Hornbill – KIN (once), DV (twice); heard also at FH
Bushy-crested Hornbill – DV; seen three days mostly at fruiting tree
White-crowned Hornbill – KIN; once along Mananngol River
Wrinkled Hornbill – KIN, TN
Wreathed Hornbil – FH (flyover), GK (above Air Minum)

Fire-tufted Barbet – FH, GK; seen almost daily at these sites
Brown-throated Barbet – GG; seen two days
Gold-whiskered Barbet – DV; at fruiting tree and from tree tower off W-grid trail
Red-crowned Barbet – WK; twice at fruiting trees along main track
Red-throated Barbet – TN, FH (Gap)
Black-browed Barbet – FH (daily), GK (twice)
Mountain Barbet – RAFF; one seen well with many others heard
Orange-fronted Barbet – GG; seen three days along main trail to summits
Blue-eared Barbet – DV; twice at fruiting tree
Bornean Barbet – RAFF; one seen and heard
Coppersmith Barbet – TN; one visiting the fruiting tree next to hostel in resort
Brown Barbet – KIN, DV, TN, WK

Speckled Piculet – FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Rufous Piculet – KIN, TN, DV
Sunda Woodpecker – Sipilok (Labuk B&B), MA
Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker – MA
Rufous Woodpecker – DV, TN
White-bellied Woodpecker – WK, Sipilok
Banded Woodpecker – GK (Tapan Rd), WK
Lesser Yellownape – FH; three days
Crimson-winged Woodpecker – TN; two days
Greater Yellownape – FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Checker-throated Woodpecker – KB, TN, WK
Bamboo Woodpecker – FH (Gap)
Maroon Woodpecker – Sipilok, DV, KB, FH
Orange-backed Woodpecker – Sipilok, DV, KB, WK
Buff-rumped Woodpecker – Sipilok
Buff-necked Woodpecker – Sipilok, DV, TN, WK
Gray-and-buff Woodpecker – Sipilok, WK; common at WK and seen daily

Black-and-red Broadbill – KIN, DV, TN
Banded Broadbill – KB (Poring), TN
Black-and-yellow Broadbill – Sipilok, TN, DV, WK
Long-tailed Broadbill – RAFF, GK (on mountain and at Tapan Rd)
Green Broadbill – DV, TN, WK
Hose's Broadbill – KB (Poring); male and female seen above bat caves where trail levels out
Whitehead's Broadbill – KB; seen once

Schneider's Pitta – GK; three individuals seen two days on trail with others heard singing
Banded Pitta – DV, WK, TN
Blue-headed Pitta – KIN, DV
Hooded Pitta -- KIN
Blue-banded Pitta – DV; great views of one bird once (see above for site)
Garnet Pitta – TN; one seen with many others heard
Graceful Pitta – GK (Tapan Rd)
Black-crowned Pitta – KIN, TN

Pacific Swallow – seen at almost every site
Red-rumped Swallow – FH; close to the top of the new road
Striated Swallow – GG; seen flying around Freddy’s Homestay

Sunda Cuckoo-shrike – KB, GK (Tapan Rd)
Javan Cuckoo-shrike – FH
Bar-bellied Cuckoo-shrike – TN
Lesser Cuckoo-shrike – DV, WK
Fiery Minivet – Sipilok, FH, WK
Sunda Minivet – GK; seen three days
Gray-chinned Minivet – Raff, KB, FH, GK
Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike – Raff, KB, FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike – WK, DV

Straw-headed Bulbul – DV, TN; seen twice at both locations
Cream-striped Bulbul – GK (Tapan Rd)
Spot-necked Bulbul – GK (Tapan Rd)
Black-headed Bulbul – FH, WK
Black-crested Bulbul – FH; daily
Bornean Bulbul -- RAFF
Scaly-breasted Bulbul – TN; in fruiting tree near hostel at resort
Gray-bellied Bulbul – TN; in fruiting tree near hostel at resort
Sooty-headed Bulbul – WK, MA
Puff-backed Bulbul – DV
Orange-spotted Bulbul – GK, GG (daily)
Stripe-throated Bulbul – TN
Yellow-vented Bulbul – commonly at most sites
Olive-winged Bulbul – DV, WK
Cream-vented Bulbul – Sipilok, DV, TN, WK
Red-eyed Bulbul – KIN, DV, TN, WK
Spectacled Bulbul – DV, WK
Ochraceous Bulbul – RAFF, DV, FH, GK, KB
Gray-cheeked Bulbul – DV, TN, GG, WK
Yellow-bellied Bulbul – Sipilok, KIN, DV, TN, WK
Hairy-backed Bulbul – Sipilok, TN
Buff-vented Bulbul – DV, WK
Streaked Bulbul – FH
Ashy Bulbul – FH
Mountain Bulbul – FH
Sunda Bulbul – GK (Tapan and on the mountain)

Greater Green Leafbird – DV, TN
Lesser Green Leafbird – DV, WK
Blue-winged Leafbird – FH, TN
Bornean Leafbird – RAFF, KB
Orange-bellied Leafbird – FH
Blue-masked Leafbird – GK (Tapan Rd); male and female about 1km after 1st bridge

Common Iora – Sipilok, KIN, KB, TN
Green Iora – DV, WK

Shiny Whistling-Thrush – GK; common
Chestnut-winged Whistling-Thrush – GK; seen three times along lower sections of main trail
Javan Whistling-Thrush – GG; common and seen daily
Bornean Whistling-Thrush – KB; seen three days in various places along lower trails
Scaly Thrush – GG; seen twice along summit trail below Air Panas area
Fruit-hunter – KB, RAFF; both times as pairs or small parties
Lesser Shortwing – FH, GK, GG
White-browed Shortwing – KK, GK, GG

Hill Prinia – GK (Tapan Rd)
Bar-winged Prinia – GG area, MA
Yellow-bellied Prinia – KIN, and around Kota Kinabalu airport

Javan Tesia – GG; common and seen daily
Bornean Stubtail – KB; seen once along Kiau View Trail where it was nesting in trailside growth
Sunda Bush-Warbler – KB, GK
Clamorous Reed-Warbler – MA
Mountain Tailorbird – seen at all highland sites
Common Tailorbird – TN
Dark-necked Tailorbird – FH, TN, WK
Rufous-tailed Tailorbird – DV, Sipilok, WK
Ashy Tailorbird – Sipilok, KIN, WK, Kota Kinabalu airport area
Mountain Leaf-Warbler – KB, GK, GG
Chestnut-crowned Warbler – FH; seen daily
Yellow-breasted Warbler – KB, RAFF; seen daily
Sunda Warbler – GK, GG; seen daily
Yellow-bellied Warbler – FH; seen daily
Striated Grassbird – grassy areas across from Kota Kinabalu airport

Gray-chested Jungle-Flycatcher – DV; seen twice
Eyebrowed Jungle-Flycatcher – KB; seen three times along Silau-Silau and Liwagu Trail
Snowy-browed Flycatcher – KB, GK, GG; seen daily at these sites and very confiding
Rufous-browed Flycatcher – FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Rufous-chested Flycatcher – DV; seen once on Waterfall Trail
Little Pied Flycatcher – KB, GK, GG
Verditer Flycatcher – FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Indigo Flycatcher – KB, GK, GG; common at all sites
Large Niltava – FH, GK; fairly common
Pale Blue-Flycatcher – KIN; once
Hill Blue-Flycatcher – GG
Large-billed Blue-Flycatcher – DV; once along entrance road
Malaysian Blue-Flycatcher – KIN, DV, WK
Bornean Blue-Flycatcher – DV; once
Tickell's Blue-Flycatcher – TN; usually a pair around Lubok Simpon
Gray-headed Canary-flycatcher – DV, KB, TN, GK (common)
Oriental Magpie-Robin – Sipilok, DV, FH, TN, WK; common and seen daily
White-rumped Shama – TN (common), WK
White-crowned Shama – KIN, DV; fairly common
Rufous-tailed Shama – DV, TN; just once at each
Sunda Blue Robin – GK, GG; days went by at GK with none but then up to 6 on some days
Sunda Forktail – GG; daily near Blue Lake shelter
Chestnut-naped Forktail – DV, TN; once at each site
Slaty-backed Forktail – FH; seen three days here
White-crowned Forktail – DV, KB, TN; fairly common
Javan Cochoa – GG; one seen once on trail to summit below Air Panas

Rufous-tailed Fantail – GG; seen almost daily in mixed flocks
White-throated Fantail – KB, RAFF, FH, GK; common
White-bellied Fantail – GG; once in mixed flock near botanical gardens (see above)
Pied Fantail – KIN, DV, WK, MA, also near Kota Kinabalu Airport
Spotted Fantail – TN, DV (Waterfall Trail)

White-tailed Blue-Flycatcher – KB; seen once below bat caves at Poring
Black-naped Monarch – seen at almost all lower elevation sites; common
Asian Paradise-Flycatcher – DV, TN

Bornean Whistler – KB, RAFF; common

Sunda Laughingthrush – KB, RAFF; fairly common but less so than Chestnut-hooded
Rufous-fronted Laughingthrush – GG; one flock seen on summit trail near 1st shelter
Black Laughingthrush – FH; seen two days there
Bare-headed Laughingthrush – GK; seen two days there
Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush – FH; seen daily
Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush – KB, RAFF; daily and common
Malayan Laughingthrush – FH; less common than Chestnut-capped
White-chested Babbler – KIN, DV, TN, WK
Ferruginous Babbler – DV; once
Abbott's Babbler – TN; daily near Lubok Simpon
Horsfield's Babbler – DV, GG (not uncommon)
Short-tailed Babbler – DV, KB, TN, WK
Buff-breasted Babbler – FH; almost daily
Temminck's Babbler – GK; seen two days around restaurant and start of Liwagu Trail on road
Black-capped Babbler – Sipilok, DV, TN, WK; one or two seen at each site
Moustached Babbler – TN; seen two days
Sooty-capped Babbler – DV, TN, WK; usually pretty common
Scaly-crowned Babbler – DV, TN; common
Rufous-crowned Babbler – DV, TN, WK; common
Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler – GG; seen in small parties almost daily in national park
Striped Wren-Babbler – DV, TN – several seen at each site
Large Wren-Babbler – TN; seen well on Janut Muda and near Kumbang Hide
Rusty-breasted Wren-Babbler – GK; heard daily, several seen and nest found near Base Camp
Black-throated Wren-Babbler – DV; seen once on trail to Waterfall (see above)
Marbled Wren-Babbler – FH; seen once as small party foraged in gully on old road (see above)
Streaked Wren-Babbler – FH; Bishop’s trail twice
Mountain Wren-Babbler – KB; seen twice on Kiau View Trail and Liwagu Trail
Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler – GK, GG; seen several days at each location
Pygmy Wren-Babbler – GK (common), GG
Rufous-fronted Babbler – TN; once
Golden Babbler – FH, GK; common in mixed flocks
Gray-throated Babbler – KB, RAFF, FH, GK; common
Gray-headed Babbler – DV, TN; once at each
Spot-necked Babbler – GK; seen once in ‘dry river bed’ and also near base camp
Black-throated Babbler – TN; seen upper Janut Muda and near Lubok Simpon with more heard
White-bibbed Babbler – GG; seen three days there
Chestnut-rumped Babbler – DV, TN; seen twice at each
Chestnut-winged Babbler – Sipilok, KIN, DV, TN
Crescent-chested Babbler – GG; seen two days here
Pin?-striped Tit-Babbler – FH, TN, WK
Bold-striped Tit-Babbler – DV; once near hostel
Fluffy-backed Tit-Babbler – DV, WK; not uncommon
Silver-eared Mesia – FH; daily and common along roads
White-browed Shrike-Babbler – seen at all highland sites; common with mixed flocks
Black-eared Shrike-Babbler – FH; seen in mixed flocks several days
Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler – GG; daily in mixed flocks
Blue-winged Minla – FH; nearly daily
Brown Fulvetta – DV; once on waterfall trail
Javan Fulvetta – GG; daily and common
Mountain Fulvetta – FH; daily and common
Spotted Crocias – GG; seen almost daily in various places along trails
Long-tailed Sibia – FH, GK; not uncommon in small flocks
Chestnut-crested Yuhina – RAFF, KB; common and daily
White-bellied Yuhina – KB, FH; several times at each
Malaysian Rail-babbler – TN; seen near Swamp Loop twice

Pygmy Tit – GG; common in Cibodas Botanical Gardens

Golden-bellied Gerygone – MA; common

Grey Tit – GK, GG, MA
Sultan Tit – TN; seen twice around hostel fruiting tree

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch – DV, WK
Blue Nuthatch – FH, GK, GG (really common)

Ruby-cheeked Sunbird – Sipilok, DV, TN
Plain Sunbird – DV
Plain-throated Sunbird – Sipilok and near Kota Kinabalu Airport
Red-throated Sunbird – KIN, TN, DV
Purple-naped Sunbird – DV, TN, WK
Olive-backed Sunbird – Sipilok, KB, MA; Padang Airport
White-flanked Sunbird – GG; daily and common
Black-throated Sunbird – FH; most days
Crimson Sunbird – KIN, WK, DV
Temminck's Sunbird – RAFF, KB, FH, GK (Tapan Rd)
Spectacled Spiderhunter – DV, TN
Little Spiderhunter – Sipilok, DV, WK
Yellow-eared Spiderhunter – DV, TN
Gray-breasted Spiderhunter – DV, TN
Streaked Spiderhunter – FH; common and daily seen
Whitehead's Spiderhunter – RAFF; seen one once 2km before center (see above)

Yellow-breasted Flowerpecker – DV; once
Yellow-rumped Flowerpecker – DV, Sipilok
Yellow-vented Flowerpecker – TN; hostel fruiting tree
Orange-bellied Flowerpecker – Sipilok; one at Labuk B&B
Fire-breasted Flowerpecker – FH
Black-sided Flowerpecker – KB; seen twice near restaurant
Blood-breasted Flowerpecker – GG; once at Cibodas Botanical Gardens
Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker – MA; one seen from boardwalk

Oriental White-eye – GG, GK (Tapan Rd)
Black-capped White-eye – RAFF, KB, GK; common
Everett's White-eye – FH
Mountain White-eye – GK; higher parts of trail
Javan Gray-throated White-eye – GG; common in mixed flocks
Mountain Black-eye – RAFF; seen once near Gunung Emas Highlands Resort

Dark-throated Oriole – DV, WK; once at each
Black-naped Oriole – MA
Black-and-crimson Oriole – KB (daily), GK (once on Tapan Rd)

Asian Fairy-bluebird – DV, FH, TN, WK; mainly at fruiting trees

Long-tailed Shrike – GK, GG; in open areas

Rufous-winged Philentoma – DV, WK, TN; not uncommon

Ashy Drongo – all highland sites
Bronzed Drongo – FH, WK
Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo – FH, GK, GG
Hair-crested Drongo – DV, Sipilok
Sumatran Drongo – GK (Tapan Rd)
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo – Sipilok, FH, TN, WK

White-breasted Woodswallow – KB, WK, MA

Bornean Bristlehead – DV; finally seen along the entrance road to field center in small flocks

Crested Jay – DV, TN; seen just once at each site
Bornean Black Magpie – Sipilok; once
Black Magpie – WK, TN
Green Magpie – FH, GK, WK
Short-tailed Magpie – KB; several seen near restaurant and Silau-Silau Trail
Sumatran Treepie – GK (Tapan Rd)
Bornean Treepie – KB, RAFF; common at both sites
Racket-tailed Treepie – MA; one seen in low growth
House Crow – Kuala Lumpur area
Slender-billed Crow – KIN, Sipilok, DV, TN

Asian Glossy Starling – Sipilok, Kota Kinabalu areas
Common Hill Myna – KIN, DV, WK, TN; several seen at each
Crested Myna – area across from Kota Kinabalu Airport
Javan Myna – GK, MA
Jungle Myna – TN; once
Common Myna – Kuala Lumpur area
Black-winged Starling – MA; one seen
European Starling – cities

Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch – GG; one feeding trailside in lower part of national park
Pin-tailed Parrotfinch – FH; small group in bamboo below the Gap
White-rumped Munia -- FH
Dusky Munia – DV, KB, RAFF, near Kota Kinabalu Airport
Scaly-breasted Munia – GG; flocks frequented golf course area
Black-headed Munia – Sipilok
Eurasian Tree Sparrow – cities

Mammal List

Short-tailed (Lesser) Gymnure Hylomys suillus: KB Feeding in the rubbish bin near the Tymphon Gate

Lesser Treeshrew Tupaia minor: RAF

Mountain Treeshrew Tupaia montana: KB

Large Flying Fox Pteropus vampyrus: many flying over at dusk in Sipilok, Sabah

Fawn Roundleaf Bat Hipposideros cervinus: KB Poring Hot Springs bat cave resident

Sundaic Silvered Langur Trachypithecus cristatus: KIN, WK A few ‘blonde’-phases seen along the Kinabatangan River in addition to the normal grey-phases

Javan (Ebony) Langur Trachypithecus auratus: GG. Group seen lower down on main trail

Dusky Langur Trachypithecus barbei: FH/Gap area. Group seen feeding roadside

White-thighed Langur Presbytis siamensis: FH several times around High Pines Trail

Maroon Langur Presbytis rubicunda: KIN, DV

Grizzled (Sunda) Langur Presbytis comate: GG

Mitred Langur Presbytis melalophos: GK Nearly daily along beginning of trail

Proboscis Monkey Nasalis larvatus: KIN daily

Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fascicularis: KIN, FH, TN, WK, RAF, MA

Southern Pig-tailed Macaque Macaca nemestrina: KIN, DV, FH, WK

Bornean Gibbon Hylobates muelleri: KIN, DV

Siamang Hylobates syndactylus: FH, WK, GK Seen well at least once at all places but heard more frequently. A pair seen brachiating and calling loudly at close range one morning at GK.

Bornean Orangutan Pongo pygmaeus: KIN, DV Five seen in total. First was a massive 25+ year old male at KIN followed by female and young baby the next day. A female sitting on the suspension bridge my last day at DV was a fitting farewell.

Sunda Colugo Galeopterus variegates: TN Female with clinging baby seen on trunk of large tree while nightbirding along the trail to Lubok Simpson

Sunda Slow Loris Nycticebus coucang: TN, WK Seen first in trees behind cabins at the resort at TN then several more seen later at WK while nightbirding

Sun Bear Helarctos malayanaus: WK Great views of one coming out of the forest, pausing at the edge of the main track then crossing it in front of us

Yellow-throated Martin Martes flavigula: WK Incredible views as one came bounding down the main track right towards me for 80 meters and didn’t stop until it was 5 meters away, looked up and realized I was a human and took off into the forest

Javan Ferret-Badger Melogale orientalis: GG One feeding after dark on rubbish near the shelter at the waterfall/summit trail junction

Smooth Otter Lutrogale perspicillata: KIN Great views of one calling and standing on riverbank along the tributary closest to Kinabatangan Jungle Camp
Malay Civit Viverra tangalunga: DV, TN
Common Palm Civit Paradoxurus hermaphrodites: KIN, DV, GG, FH

Small-toothed Palm Civit Arctogalidia trivirgata: KIN, DV, WK

Banded Civit Hemigalus derbyanus: WK Spotted by the ranger during a nightbirding foray and seen close up as it foraged on the forest floor

Binturong Arctictis binturong: DV Fantastic views two nights in a row at the fruiting tree behind the dining area on the way to the campsite

Small Asian (Javan) Mongoose Herpestes javanicus: GG Seen both in the park and near the golf course

Asian (Bornean Pygmy) Elephant Elephas maximus: DV Four seen along the main road into Danum Valley at about the half-way point

Bearded Pig Sus barbatus: DV Several seen daily feeding in the main clearing

Eurasian Wild Pig Sus scrofa: FH, TN, GG, WK

Lesser Mousedeer Tragulus javanicus: DV, WK

Greater Mousedeer Tragulus napu: TN Seen several nights while nightbirding

Red Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak: WK

Bornean Yellow Muntjac Muntiacus atherodes: DV

Sambar Deer Cervus unicolor: DV, TN, WK

Cream-colored Giant Squirrel Ratufa affinis: DV, FH, TN, GK

Prevost’s Squirrel Callosciurus prevostii: DV, KIN, WK, KB (Poring)

Kinabalu Squirrel Callosciurus baluensis: KB

Plantain Squirrel Callosciurus notatus: KIN, TN

Brooke’s Squirrel Sundascurius brookei: Sipilok area

Low’s Squirrel Sundasciurus lowii: TN

Jentink’s Squirrel Sundasciurus jentinki: RAF

Western Striped Squirrel Tamiops mcclellandii: FH

Whitehead’s Pygmy-Squirrel Exilisciurus whiteheadi: KB

Plain Pygmy-Squirrel Exilisciurus exilis: KIN

Bornean Mountain Ground-Squirrel Dremomys everetti: RAF

Shrew-faced Ground-Squirrel Rhinosciurus laticaudatus: DV

Three-striped Ground-Squirrel Lariscus insignis: GG, GK

Sunda Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus nigrovittatus: WK

Bornean Black-banded Squirrel Callosciurus orestes: KB

Red Giant Flying Squirrel Petaurista petaurista: GG

Red Spiny Rat Maxomys surifer: GG