Overview
My partner’s nephew Tony invited us to join him with his family and a group of colleagues with their families for a safari in northern Tanzania, visiting Serengeti NP, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. This evolved into a four week holiday for us, travelling to a number of other places in Tanzania. This was a mostly general-wildlife holiday which naturally offered plenty of birding opportunities, and did combine good diving for my partner Matt. Pemba was great since it satisfied the joint criteria of fantastic diving along with endemic birds. Although not a purely birding holiday (my partner Matt would possibly disagree with this definition and he got less diving than I did birding) I did end the trip with a solid day of guided birding.
Most of the wildlife spotting drives offered good birding, with many birds close to the car. While we were encouraged to ask to stop whenever we wanted, I didn’t stop for every bird but I did stop for quite a few small brown ones. I didn’t want to be lynched by others in the group for stopping at every small bird - my partner is used to me but some of the others in the group found this a new experience. On the other hand who knows when I would be back and I was going to get a look at as many as I thought publicly acceptable.
I ended up with a list of 442 species seen, with a further 7 which were only heard. Since I had never been to Africa before, 407 of these were lifers, underlined in the text below.
Itinerary
16/7: Fly from Sydney to Dubai
17:7 Fly from Dubai to Dar es Salaam arriving afternoon and staying at Holiday Inn.
18/7-20/7: Fly from Dar es Salaam to Msembe airstrip and then car (15km) to Ruaha River Lodge to spend three nights. Game drives morning and afternoon on first and third days, and a whole day drive on second day.
21/7: Birding around lodge, then depart after lunch for Msembe airstrip. Fly to Mikumi airstrip via Ngwazi airstrip and spend next three nights at Foxes Safari Camp, with afternoon game drive to camp
22/7: Whole day drive through park, with lunch in forested Vuma Hills south of the highway.
23/7: Day trip to Udzungwa Mountains.
24-26/7: Fly to Kisampa, and stay here for three nights. Day trip on 26/7 to Saadani NP for river boat trip.
27/6: Morning trip to Zaraninge Forest (Saadani NP), return to Kisampa and depart after lunch for Pemba, staying at Old Mission Lodge, Chake
28/6: Day trip to Misali Island.
29/6: Walk to Vitongoji Beach.
30/6: Drive to northern Pemba, visit Ngezi Forest, and nearby areas at Ras Kigomasha, Vumawimbi Beach.
1-4/7: Fly to Zanzibar, staying in Stone Town at Dhow Palace Hotel. Little birding except for incidental and a few spots around Stone Town, but spend morning of 3/7 at Jozani Chwaka NP.
5/7: afternoon flight from Zanzibar to Dar and then on to Mwanza on Lake Victoria, arriving at night.
6/7: Day in Mwanza.
7/7: Drive from Mwanza to Ndabaka gate, Serengeti NP, then through Western Corridor to Serena Lodge, Seronera. Drives in Seronera area including Hippo Pool and Seronera River, guided nature/bird walk near lodge and birding around lodge.
9/7: Drive back out through Seronera River area to Naabi Hill Gate, then on to Serena Lodge, Ngorongoro Crater stopping at Oldupai Gorge, and Maasai village nearby, birding around lodge in afternoon.
10/7: Drive in crater, afternoon walk on slopes of Oldeani with views to Lake Eyasi, and brief walk through highland scrub/forest edge near lodge.
11/7-12:7Drive to Serena Lodge, Lake Manyara (actually overlooking park on escarpment edge), game drives in Lake Manyara to Hippo Pool and Hot Springs, birding around lodge.
13/7: Drive to Arusha, staying at Kigongoni Lodge, afternoon birding around lodge.
14/7: Day birding with James Wolstencroft (check out his website his website Birdman )at Mt Meru and then at Lark Plains N of Mt Meru.
15:7 Fly out to Dubai.
General Impressions
Tanzania was fantastic both for birds and in general. Overall, the food was good to excellent and likewise the accommodation varied from good to great. The people were definitely friendly and generally helpful, especially when we really needed it like at the airport transfer desk when running late for a connection.
It is said that Tanzania is not cheap to visit. I’d agree, but then we were in the middle price bracket for accommodation, and we also spent quite a bit on travelling by planes rather than on the road, so it could be done much cheaper. The only road trips were the main road safari across the northern circuit from Mwanza on Lake Victoria to Arusha, and on a side trip to the Udzungwa Mountains from Mikumi NP. This left little chance for roadside birding, especially because we were mostly in a convoy of cars and could not really stop, aside from the odd flat-tyre, since we had a schedule to keep. It was surprising then that I still did pick up a couple of birds from the road trip up north which I never saw elsewhere. I probably missed quite a bit, especially by not birding some good Miombo from the road near Mikumi as other have done. Conversely, the advantage of travelling by plane was that we could spend more time at each destination rather than bumping along the roads, so there was an upside, and quite possibly I saw birds which I may have missed at each place if given less time?
“Hakuna Matata” is Kiswahili for “no worries”, and it sums up much of the attitude, especially to timing/punctuality. It’s best to take this advice; don’t worry, it will all work out eventually.
Be prepared for the dust in open top cars in the parks. I had been warned about how dusty the drives in the Serengeti were (don’t even ask about the Lark Plains), but I was stupidly still surprised when I was subject to it. In the Lark Plains where we passed few cars I was covered in more dust than on any other drive; even though we had no open roof, the driver drove with windows down. Dust whirled in huge clouds inside the cabin all around us, and reduced visibility even within the car itself. Once again I came to appreciate having waterproof binoculars; I ended up cleaning them by immersing them in a hand basin several times during the course of the trip. “Chakula wumbi” is apparently Kiswahili for “eat my dust”, or so we were told. And be prepared for speed bumps. When Tanzanians do speed bumps, they do them in a big way. In many places we passed over these they were there to slow traffic down in areas through/adjacent to national parks or reserves so as to reduce the incidence of roadkills (I’d hate to hit an elephant). In other areas though, the logic behind the placement of some speed bumps eluded me completely.
Bird-related thoughts
I was somewhat surprised at seeing 442 species for the trip. This is taking into account that I did not go on a dedicated birding trip and was travelling at a time of year when northern migrants were not present; this was perhaps better than I could have expected. I bought my field guide (see below) sometime before and read up during many nights, mostly in the hope that I would at least turn to the right section of the field guide when confronted with birds I wouldn’t recognise, and this clearly paid off. As it turned out, I relied on the book less than I expected, and quite a lot of it did stay in my brain, which was just as well given that, at times, a distant glimpse might be all you get. Towards the end of the trip I’d seen quite a lot of common species which helped to know when I was looking at something different and my confidence in my ID skills were boosted. Our guides knew birds to varying extents, but some were better than others, as some also seemed far more interested than others, being very keen birders.
In general the birding was great, even allowing for the fact that much of it was from cars. I was surprised at the number of small species which I did see from cars, although some were spooked by the cars and would fly off allowing only brief views. Even if a good mixed feeding flock would pass over, staying in the car if the flock passed some distance into vegetation meant missing them, and at times we no doubt drove past some altogether. To balance this I did see lots of small birds near the various lodges and camps, and in some places we walked (especially at Kisampa) and thus saw more birds. I did not take my scope due to weight restrictions with the many small plane flights. A scope might have been useful in some places, especially to have set up on veranda at Ruaha or Mikumi, but wasn’t necessary, except perhaps at Lake Manyara where I couldn’t get close enough views from the car trails for some of the waterbirds. There were some patches which were quite dead, the most spectacular of these was on the Sanje Falls trail in the Udzungwa Mountains, but there were others. This is only to be expected, especially in a trip of four weeks and it was balanced with the times of high bird diversity.
Field Guides and Other Reading
Stevenson and Fanshawe (2003) Birds of East Africa - Available on Amazon.com and reasonably priced, this seemed the best buy for a field guide covering the whole of Tanzania in reasonable depth. After reading it extensively beforehand and then using it on the trip, I’d say that the illustrations are generally very good, only a few are a little dodgy. In particular, Beesley’s Lark (listed as a race of Spike-heeled Lark in the book) is an amazingly richly coloured bird in the plate, but well outside the range of variation I saw in the 8 birds (and there was quite a bit of variation). The maps seem to have some glitches, generally under-representing a range in that I saw a few birds where they didn’t appear on the map, in some cases these were common and obvious at their unmapped locations (e.g. Long-tailed Fiscal at Mikumi NP and Swamp Flycatcher at Mwanza). To be fair there is a disclaimer in the front which notes that the maps are least accurate for Tanzania.
Also, there have been recent taxonomic changes not covered in this book, with many species have been split since this was printed a mere 4 years ago. Sinclair and Ryan (2003) Birds of Africa South of the Sahara was recommended to me as being more up to date even though published the same year, and although covering a much larger geographic range and number of species, it does cover species which could blow into the area from elsewhere in sub-Saharan Africa. I only managed to purchase this after I arrived home so can’t comment on its use in the field. I bought Nigel Wheatley (1996) Where to Find Birds in Africa but didn’t visit half the Tanzanian sites and some of those I visited were either not covered or only covered in brief detail. Cam Macdonald’s site Where do you want to go birding in Tanzania? was a good starting point for other websites and trip reports.
Sites Visited
Dar es Salaam
Dar was just a stopover point for an overnight stay, especially so since our layover in Dubai stretched out 3 hours longer than anticipated and we didn’t arrive at our hotel til dusk. Consequently there was to be no birding in Dar until the next morning other than what was seen at the airport or on the drive in (Pied Crow, House Sparrow, House Crow and Little Swift) or out of the window at dusk (Sacred Ibis and African Palm Swift among these). Dar is known for being a place where House Crows have sent populations of other species plummeting and driven others to local extinction, so it was a pleasant surprise to see a stunning coloured Brown-breasted Barbet on our window ledge the next morning. Also at the hotel was a flock of Village Weavers which were nesting in the palms and cycads in the driveway. We went for a brief walk and out on the ocean I saw the first of many Pied Kingfishers, a Black-headed Heron and some Common Terns. Nearby in the golf course I added African Pipit and Bronze Mannikin. Next to the hotel was the slightly shabby and somewhat run down Botanic Gardens, a much smaller entity than the name might suggest, where I managed to add Purple-banded Sunbird, Collared Sunbird, Striped Kingfisher and Red-cheeked Cordonbleu. Back at the airport, domestic terminal this time, 2 magnificent Black-chested Snake Eagles flew over, and I saw my first African Pied Wagtail.
Ruaha NP
Ruaha was mind-blowing because everything was so new for us. We saw our first elephants, giraffes and zebra as the plane descended to Msembe airstrip. The birding here started as we waited near the airstrip for fuelling etc, where I saw African Grey Flycatcher, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, African Rock Martin, Wire-tailed Swallow and Cut-throat Finch. The drive to our lodge (Ruaha River Lodge) was impressive and we fortunately stopped as often as we wanted, so I was able to add many more species, including Superb Starling, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver, Von Decken’s Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller, Northern White-crowned Shrike and Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill. The last is a recent split from Red-billed Hornbill (as is the Northern Red-billed Hornbill which I saw further north), and I only saw it here at Ruaha where it was obvious and quite tame around the lodge.
The lodge is set on the Great Ruaha River, about 15km drive from Msembe airstrip, and both dining area and bandas look out over onto the river. Birding, and indeed general wildlife watching, was excellent just sitting at the dining table, and I was able to walk around the lodge grounds. I recorded a number of species for the trip only at/around the lodge, including Black-necked Weaver, Nubian Woodpecker, Golden-tailed Woodpecker and Jameson’s Firefinch, and others only at Ruaha generally, including Verraux’s Eagle, Long-crested Eagle, Yellow-collared Lovebird, Siffling Cisticola, Ashy Flycatcher, Pale Flycatcher, Buff-crested Bustard, Woodland Kingfisher, Three-banded Plover, Bohm’s Spinetail and Rufous-crowned Roller. Bird life was prolific around the river and one specialty was White-crowned Lapwing, one of the most conspicuous of all the birds in the area, and certainly the most attractive of the many lapwings I saw on the trip. These were evident at the lodge and also over much of the river. Further downstream form the lodge we had sundowner drinks at a hippo pool and I managed to see a pair of White-backed Night Herons and a Spotted Eagle Owl.
We went on a number of game drives upstream where the valley narrows and the vegetation is probably what is (confusingly for an Australian) described in various field guides as “bush”, with some areas of Baobab woodland. We drove a couple of routes downstream, which included hills and river plains, and in addition to the bush and Baobab woodland seen upstream, Acacia woodland, savannah and grassland on the broadening river plain. We drove as far as the Mwagusi River confluence, about 25km downstream from Msembe. The Mwagusi is a “sand river” i.e. seasonally dry. In addition to those already mentioned, highlights from Ruaha included Martial Eagle, Ostrich, Plain Martin, Marabou, Saddle-billed Stork, Spur-winged Lapwing, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Namaqua Dove, Grey-capped Social Weaver, and Black-faced Waxbill, to name a selection. The spectacular riverside setting of the lodge and the imposing landscape, with its ranges rising out of the plains, help to make this an excellent destination, and it has the advantage of not being as crowded as the northern parks.
Ngwazi
Ngwazi is situated in the Southern Highlands, south of Iringa, at approximately 1800m asl. It is mentioned only because although it was an unexpected stop on our flight from Ruaha to Mikumi, it was also the only site for the holiday where I saw Grey-rumped Swallows, with several flying past over the airstrip.
Mikumi NP
Mikumi National Park is bisected by the Tanzam Highway. To the north the country opens out onto the Nkata floodplain, rising into miombo clad low hills in the south. I had hoped to bird in miombo woodland here (my main reason for picking this park); miombo is one (perhaps more) species of Brachystegia, as well as Brachystegia dominated woodland. The miombo is the draw card for birders, but for general wildlife viewing, the focus is on the plains. We stayed at Foxes Safari Camp; of the two places which Foxes own in Mikumi we selected this on the basis of being smaller and therefore probably quieter. It was a luxurious place to stay, and although we stayed in tents on platforms they were more like lodge rooms. However, the location of the camp (in the far north) meant it was further from most of the park’s miombo in the south. Although the other camp was in forest on a rise south of the highway, few of the game drives in the south in the heart of the miombo are open anyway (other than the Vuma Hills circuit).
In order to get to our camp, we had to pass through a few patches of woodland, described to me as miombo and riddled with Tsetse flies (bane of the miombo country). These were mostly Combretum sp. dominated, but I managed to see one miombo specialist – Pale-billed Hornbill, whose pale bills stood out in comparison with the more prevalent Grey Hornbill.
The plains country is on what is locally referred to as black cotton soil, much like the grassy plains on the black cracking clay soils of the flood plains of western NSW. The landscape was different again to the miombo, as it was different from the much drier plain of the Great Ruaha River. Grass height varied from very short to very tall, more than 2.5m in places. In some parts this gave way to savannah with scattered trees. Long-tailed Fiscals and Grey Hornbills were characteristic of the plains. Both Zitting and Desert Cisticola were here, as were Black-bellied Bustard, White-bellied Bustard, Crowned Lapwing (very common in short grass), Red-billed Quelea, Harlequin Quail, Small Buttonquail, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Greater Blue-eared Starling and a heard-but-unseen Golden Pipit. Moderately large gatherings of Comb Duck (on Mwanambogo Dam), and Water Thick-knee (at the Hippo Pool), were noteworthy. Other species which I only saw here included Eastern Paradise Whydah, Pin-tailed Whydah (both in wooded country around streams), White-browed Sparrow Weaver and African Hoopoe.
We did a whole day game drive on 22/6, aiming to take in Mwanambogo Dam in the north, and the plains, and also the Vuma Hills circuit in the south which encompassed miombo, but we ran short of time so we had to skip the Vuma Hills circuit. I thus missed out on a number of miombo specialists which I’ll just have to go back for one day.
After staying at Ruaha, which had the added bonus that everything was new, the camp was decidedly quieter for birds (and very windy and smoky which probably didn’t help), and there were few birds around the camp itself, although a highlight was definitely seeing Verraux’s Eagle Owls one morning at sunrise from our tent. I think the wind may have may have somewhat diminished the birding prospects at Mikumi and also made us colder driving in an open car. It was also the start of burning season, and there were fires around day and night – we even had to drive through some. I’m not so sure that all the birds liked it, but some benefited, such as Marabou and Southern Ground Hornbills which picked over the ground afterwards for small prey.
Udzungwa Mountains
It’s hard to overstate my disappointment with this expensive day trip to Sanje Falls in the Udzungwa Mountains National Park. The view from the top was great, it was a scenic setting (nice and cool after the sweaty walk up) and the forest was spectacular. And I did see three new species for the holiday at the top – Mountain Buzzard, African Crowned Eagle and Black Saw-wing. However, having said that, I saw no Udzungwa endemics, no south-east highland endemics, no mountain endemics, few montane specialists (i.e. those listed above) and only one forest specialist - a Square-tailed Drongo in the forest itself. Other than a single Dark-capped Bulbul, a species I saw many times during the trip, there was nothing else to be seen, and only a couple of times did we hear more which remained invisible (and which the guide didn’t know the calls). Beautiful but very disappointing birdwise.
Kisampa
Buoyed by views of Spot-flanked Barbet at the airstrip of Kisampa upon arrival, I was sure that the birding would be excellent. Overall it was good, but bird abundance and diversity varied widely across at different times. Next to the Udzungwa Mountains, some parts of Kisampa were almost as quiet. I don’t know but perhaps it was the still humid weather, but the birds were both still and silent at times here (in retrospect this is quite likely – I have encountered this in a number of countries in such weather). Conversely, at other times birds were abundant, such as on the canoe ride down the Wami River and outside our tent on the last day, so it made for overall good birding. Rob Barbour, who manages Kisampa, is very interested in, and very good at, birds and also keen to add to the knowledge of the birds in the sanctuary; he was embarrassed for the birds’ lack of presence and he impressed upon me greatly how unusual this was.
I saw more than 70 species at Kisampa. Many of these were only seen there, including African Golden Bunting, Chestnut-fronted Helmet Shrike, Vanga Flycatcher, Piping Cisticola, Coastal Cisticola, Green Barbet, Mombassa Woodpecker, Southern Banded Snake Eagle, African Golden Oriole, Black-collared Barbet, Green-capped Eremomela and Orange-winged Pytilia. The last two of these are miombo birds which I had missed at Mikumi. Aside from those seen here only, some others were well worth mentioning: near the tent on the last morning I had excellent views of a Bearded Scrub Robin; at a small oxbow lake we had great views of African Fish-Eagle and African Jacana; one night we drove down to the airstrip and saw many nightjars, both Square-tailed Nightjar and Fiery-necked Nightjar, and also a pair of Senegal Lapwings; and one afternoon we floated down a stretch of the Wami River in a dugout canoe, and this provided excellent views of a flock of 30 White-fronted Bee-eaters at their nesting area, as well as great views of Giant Kingfishers (one of five kingfishers for the canoe trip), African Golden Weaver, Palm-nut Vulture and Black-breasted Starling.
Kisampa has a range of habitats of which I did not see all. It was nice to just walk rather than sitting in a car all the time. With it’s proximity to Saadani, and especially the Zaraninge forest, the combination of the two makes for great coastal birding. Throw in a manager who is good on birds and happy to go birding with you and you are on a winner.
Kisampa could be summed up by the description of pit toilets with silver service. One of two places where we stayed in tents, on first appearances it seemed the more rustic. As it turned out, the shower (bush shower - bucket with shower head attached) was one of the best we had in the whole of our trip, not even taking into account the view from the shower platform. The toilets likewise may not have been inside flush units, but on the plus side the view from the toilet seat was great. All structures were made from natural timber and thatch, or mud in some cases. In addition to being the most ecologically responsible place at which we stayed (and even the biggest places such as the Serena lodges had some points of ecological responsibility), Kisampa has a strong ethos of social responsibility. All the staff come from the neighbouring village, and Rob and family have built a secondary school in the village there. Money from the camp goes into the village so the locals have a vested interest in keeping the place running and everyone gets something out of it.
Saadani NP
We spent half a day on a trip to Saadani NP to visit the mouth of the Wami River, and I saw quite a few species. We travelled by air since it was apparently about the same cost by the time a car would negotiate the bad road for 2 hours. When we met up with Rob Barbour at the end of the trip to return to Kisampa he grilled me on what I’d seen; it turned out I had missed quite a few waterbirds he’d thought possible, but after the days we had had (and I had told him about the Udzungwas) he didn’t want to get my hopes up. With all the water still lying around after the long and heavy wet season, many waterbirds were still scattered.
At the lodge, the first Yellow-billed Kite of the trip (recent split from the Black Kite) made an appearance, while an African Fish Eagle wheeled overhead. A few birds on the beach a little south of the lodge included a lone immature Crab Plover and 2 White-fronted Plovers. On the outside of the mangroves at the river mouth were flocks of Whimbrel and Common Greenshank, and once inside lots of Little Egrets perched in the trees. Large flocks of Yellow-billed Storks and smaller aggregations of Woolly-necked Storks were present on the mudflats, while a 40 strong flock of African Openbill circled overhead. A Green-backed Woodpecker perched in a mangrove tree, and surprisingly (not mapped for the area in the field guide) 2 pairs of White-crowned Lapwings patrolled the mudflats amongst the crocs and hippos. Mangrove Kingfishers would have to be one of the most beautiful birds at the estuary. On return to Kisampa I managed to add Green Yellowbill near the airstrip.
Also technically in Saadani, although far closer to Kisampa, was the Zaraninge Forest (less than an hour drive from camp to cover the 20km or so of bad road). This complete antithesis of the Udzungwas, with birding for a mere hour and a half very productive, I added several new species here, including Crested Guineafowl, Black-headed Apalis, Little Yellow Flycatcher, Plain-backed Sunbird, Tiny Greenbul, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Green-headed Oriole, Forest Batis, Narina Trogon and the first Silvery-cheeked Hornbill of the trip.
Pemba
We stayed four nights on Pemba. Pemba was a combined bird/diving destination, and we met up with my partner’s nephew Glenn, also a diver. We had originally booked to stay at Manta Reef Lodge in the far north of the island, where other birders had stayed before, close to Ngezi forest. However, due to timing of refurbishments we had to change plans and ended up staying at the Old Mission Lodge in Chake. This was a handy dive base, and they organised cars for trips to the north of the island. It certainly cheaper than many places we had visited. Rooms were fairly basic but clean. For added ambience there were plenty of mosquitoes, and the mosque across the road had a speaker which sounded as though it was coming from UNDER the bed, especially at the first call to prayer at 4:30am. It was certainly an atmospheric place to stay, and if we had been cloistered away at the top of the island we would have seen less of Pemban daily life, which is comparatively untouched by tourism. Swahili Divers who ran the lodge have recently moved to a new location only 4km down the coast from Manta Reef, with more upmarket rooms.
Pemba Sunbird was one of the first birds seen here on arrival in the grounds of the lodge, one of the most common birds on Pemba, and perhaps the most beautiful of all the 18 sunbirds I saw on my trip. Also common around the building was the introduced Java Sparrow, nesting in the roof. The lodge had a small garden of bananas (“plantation” according to the website but don’t conjure up images of acreage) and the upper floor had a wide veranda with views over a small valley and to the Chake Inlet. Birds seen from here and in the lodge grounds included Broad-billed Roller, Brown-headed Parrot, African Paradise Flycatcher, Olive Sunbird, Black-winged Bishop, Southern Grey-headed Sparrow, Mangrove Kingfisher and Bronze Mannikin. Perhaps the best sighting from the veranda was at dusk on the first night when small bats emerged from the building only to have a Dickinson’s Kestrel swoop right in front of us chasing the bats. Pied Crows were loudly evident nearby, although ominously a few House Crows were present in town as well.
On a snorkelling trip to Misali Island, off the west coast, I was stunned at the numbers of Red-eyed Doves – one of the most common birds on the island. I added Dimorphic Egret, Lesser Crested Terns (I had good views of these and they were definitely Lesser Crested not [Greater] Crested as much of the literature made sound more likely) and a single Pemba White-eye to my list. Other birds were present, but the strangest sight would have to have been the White-browed Coucal foraging on the shore underneath a rock overhang. The snorkelling at Misali was good but not spectacular from my point of view, but apparently the diving was fantastic. I also walked to Vitongoji Beach on the east coast of Pemba on another day, a beach with a small sand flat behind some upraised coral and a reef exposed at low tide. Here I saw another Dimorphic Egret, and on the walk out I saw more of the same species seen before, but also saw Madagascar Bee-eater.
On the 30/6 we took a car with driver and drove to the north of the island. We arrived at the forest edge where we picked up a ranger and did a small walk in the forest. By this time birds had predictably become quiet, and the one bird I hoped to see here (Pemba Green Pigeon) was woefully absent. On the plus side I had better views of the previously seen Pemba White-eye, and we looked in over a small wetland in the forest which harboured Common Moorhens and a single Madagascar Pond Heron. This bird was noticeably darkly streaked, much darker than the (Common) Squacco Herons I saw elsewhere on the trip. Other than this the forest was quiet and somewhat disappointing for birds although interesting from a botanical point of view. Further along towards Ras Kigomasha, the peninsula at the NW tip of Pemba, we stopped in at a lagoon at Makongale, after driving through a rubber plantation. The lagoon harboured African Jacana, African Pygmy Goose, White-faced Whistling Duck and a single White-backed Duck. Across the lagoon pair of Pemba Green Pigeons flew over some thick coastal forest.
Zanzibar (Unguja)
I had few expectations in Zanzibar. We stayed four nights in Stone Town, the old district at the heart of the capital of the island. It’s a very lively atmospheric place, World Heritage listed for its cultural value, but not high in bird diversity. We were going to do at least a day trip to one of the beach places which would have had birding potential, but Matt and Glenn ended up diving not far from Stone Town so I just hung around here most days except for a morning at Jozani Chwaka NP. On arrival we saw many House Crows and this was pretty much it, other than House Sparrows, but over the water there were regular Sooty Gulls, which gave me something to look at when having drinks or lunch by the water (yeah I know, life’s hard – not exactly hard core birding but sometimes it’s good to take a break).
From Google Earth I’d seen what appeared to be a reasonably sized wetland on the edge of Stone Town. Apparently much of the town is built on land reclaimed out of marsh, and this is probably the last remnant. Although strewn with rubbish, especially on the edges, this nevertheless held some birds. I walked along the Malawi Rd edge, and then along a causeway cutting across the marsh, with a lake on one side. I couldn’t really see into the marsh well, but I saw several Lesser Swamp Warblers here along with a Long-tailed Cormorant and an African Jacana. Also on the outskirts of Stone Town I saw Cattle Egret, Zitting Cisticola and African Pipit in marshy, barely-reclaimed grassland in a park which also held the Mnazi Mmoja cricket grounds.
I spent a morning (3/7) out at Jozani Chwaka National Park, often referred to in the past as Jozani Forest but now an expanded reserve which takes in a number of ecosystems. I arrived early and after expressing an interest in seeing birds, I was sent walking down a track with a guide into the low forest on coral rag across the road from the offices, and ending at the mangroves. It turned out to be quite productive. Juma was extremely knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and a pleasure to go birding with. New species seen here were Sombre Greenbul, Red-capped Robin Chat (after bashing off the side of the road to track it down I had a brief view), Peter’s Twinspot (also a brief view) and best of all, the Yellow-rumped Tinkerbirds, which Juma whistled in closer for fantastic views. In the mangroves we heard an African Pygmy-Kingfisher several times but we couldn’t spot it. We also had good views of the Zanzibar Red Colobus Monkeys back near the road.
We crossed the road and then headed into the taller Red Mahogany forest which had a high water table – looked like swamp forest to me. A non-bird highlight from here was seeing (briefly) the bandicoot sized Zanj Elephant Shrew. Here the trees were tall and swaying in the strong breeze making spotting birds extremely difficult. I had hoped to see Fischer’s Turaco which were sometimes around but not at the time I was visiting. We heard a few birds which remained unseen; the most frustrating of these was Dark-backed Weaver. The flipside of having a good guide who knows bird calls is that you know what is out there but also what you may miss seeing. Jozani was definitely worth a visit. Apparently, day long trips which visit a number of ecosystems further from the office can be arranged in advance, and I’d certainly recommend Juma who was one of the best bird guides in the whole holiday.
Mwanza
From Zanzibar we flew to Mwanza, arriving at night, where we were to join up with a group for our safari across the northern circuit. The hotel was in a great spot on the shore of Lake Victoria, but I had to wait until the next day to fully appreciate the setting and the birds. Our room was the last and consequently we looked out not only across the bay, but also over the neighbouring property which had dense waterside vegetation. The lake shore all around was full of birds, and in the dense lakeside vegetation next door I saw many egrets and two African Openbills. Both Great and Long-tailed Cormorants were present on the lake itself. In addition to others, Red-chested Sunbirds and Swamp Flycatcher were both conspicuous in the hotel grounds. Both of these are Lake Victoria specialties, with the latter only mapped on the other side of the lake, in the field guide. A large flock (at least 50 birds) of Yellow-billed Kites wheeled around the rock outcrops which overlook the hotel, and there were always several present perched on buildings, even on the rail of our veranda. During the course of the day I added Scarlet-chested Sunbird to the list at the hotel.
I had originally planned to spend some of our full day at Mwanza on Saanane Island Game Reserve, but gave up on this plan due to combination of flu and a broken ferry. I walked down the road to a rock outcrop and nearby clearing around a cemetery. I saw Yellow-backed Weaver (another Lake Victoria specialty) and Holub’s Golden Weaver in reeds near the lake edge. In and around the clearing were Kenya Yellow-rumped Seedeater, Purple Grenadier and more Red-chested Sunbirds. In the afternoon I walked to some lake shore nearby and saw many Winding Cisticolas and spooked an Allen’s Gallinule into showing itself as it jumped up out of the thick Eichornia (Water Hyacinth). A single Pink-backed Pelican flew over, followed by a Peregrine Falcon, while eating dinner outside by the lake at sunset.
On the 120km drive to Ndabaka Gate, Serengeti NP, I saw many more species which I had mostly seen before. A tyre blow-out forced a stop which proved to be the only place in Tanzania where I saw Zebra (Orange-breasted) Waxbill. Further along the road we came through a village where several Angola Swallows were hawking for insects.
Serengeti NP
This is a huge national park, and no two day trip could do it justice, but it was a spectacular experience. At Ndabaka Gate at the western end of the park, I saw the first of many Rüpell’s Starling and a party of three Grey-breasted Spurfowl, a Tanzanian endemic restricted to the Mwanza-Serengeti area. Aiming to reach our lodge in the Seronera area another 120km away by lunch we stopped a little but not too much. We drove through the Western Corridor which follows the Grumeti River and its floodplain, renowned for the famous wildebeest migration. We actually only approached the river once briefly so missed out on a number of riverine species only found in this part of the country. Despite seeing a herd of 1000 or so wildebeest strung out in a line crossing the road and thinking this was the migration, this wasn’t even the tail end of it – nevertheless it was spectacular enough for us. I added many species on this drive, especially since this was my first exposure to many species restricted to the north of the country. Highlights from the drive included Rüpell’s Vulture, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Hildebrandt’s Starling, Wattled Lapwing, Black-winged Lapwing, Senegal Lapwing, Shelley’s Francolin, a single Egyptian Vulture, Silverbird, Grey-backed Fiscal and Rufous-tailed Weaver.
The lodge is set on a hill overlooking the surrounding plain in the Seronera area. I saw many birds around the buildings, in the grounds and on a brief guided walk below the lodge encircling the hill. Many birds hung around the restaurant area where they were quite tame and these included resident Lesser Masked Weavers (all seeming to be female or non-breeding males but easily identifiable by pale eye colour seen well up close), Von Decken’s Hornbill, Rüpell’s Starling, Superb Starling, Hildebrandt’s Starling and Arrow-marked Babbler. A small flock of Grey-headed Silverbills were drinking water from a bird bath nearby. Other highlights from the lodge were Marico Sunbird, Kenya Rufous Sparrow, Alpine Swift, Mottled Swift, Chin-spot Batis and Buff-bellied Warbler.
We went on a number of game drives in our stay there which were largely confined to the Seronera area. On the first afternoon we drove out to the Hippo Pool after lunch – and it really was chokerblock full of Hippos. Highlights from this drive included Usambiro Barbet, Chestnut Weaver, Secretary Bird, Pygmy Falcon and Fischer’s Lovebird. The following day we did two different circuits which both took in parts of the Seronera River, one looped back through some plains quite close to the lodge, the other followed on further from the river out across plains to some kopjes and back. Highlights from these included Blue-capped Cordonbleu, Two-banded Courser, Rufous-naped Lark, Athi Short-toed Lark, Croaking and Stout Cisticolas and Kori Bustard. While we were watching a lion near a waterhole on the river, Glenn was looking through his lens and asked me what the small birds down on the water’s edge were. I hadn’t even seen anything, but there in the shade of some overhanging vegetation were two Black Crakes – a species which had eluded me so far for the trip. Brilliant spotting on Glenn’s part.
I’d be selling the place short not to mention that the spread of mammals here was great, and the highlights would have to be both Cheetah and Leopard. These were seen one after the other, and we had great views of the Leopard, first in a tree, then on the ground near the car in grass. It was so good it outweighed being hemmed in by 17 cars at the time. On the drive out the following day we saw both of these again, in a different area. We managed to see three good mixed vulture parties at kills in the Seronera area over two days, and these included White-backed, Rüpell’s, White-headed, Hooded and Lappet-faced Vultures. On the drive out we headed away from Seronera towards Naabi Hill Gate and passed through flat very short grass plain country, which yielded Capped Wheatear, Temnick’s Courser and Greater Kestrel (including a pair at a nest in what had to be the only tree for many km).
At Naabi Hill Gate we stopped to sort out paperwork, and it proved to be a nice spot to stop and check out the birds. I had good looks at Red-rumped Swallows flying over the top of the kopje, and had excellent views of Red-fronted barbet, Black-faced Waxbill and Banded Parisoma. A single Wattled Starling drank water from under a tap.
Ngorongoro CA
Although usually associated in many people’s minds with the crater, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area is huge, contiguous with Serengeti NP, and covers a range of habitats and areas, many of which of course I didn’t see in my brief visit. I saw an Eastern Chanting Goshawk on our drive across the plains in the western end of the park, but otherwise birds were few until Oldupai Gorge.
Oldupai is famous for early hominid fossils, and there is a small museum overlooking the gorge. A male Southern Grosbeak Canary perched on the top of one of the buildings, while Vitellene Masked Weavers sat on a nearby table waiting for food scraps, and while we were sitting listening to a lecture about the hominid discoveries, a Red-headed Weaver flew over to a rock outcrop in the gorge. As a fascinating aside, apparently “Oldupai” is the Maasai name for a succulent plant found in abundance at the site, and for the site itself, but the official name is “Olduvai” due to a transcription error and has stuck ever since. As our guide and others insist on calling it Oldupai in the interest of cultural correctness I shall do so here.
After stopping at a traditional Maasai village (no birds to note but plenty more dust), we headed up to our lodge. On some grassy slopes w of the crater, c. 15km before reaching the lodge, I saw a flock of 10 Cape Crows, including some immature birds with brownish heads. Finally we arrived at the lodge perched on the crater rim in montane scrub and exotic trees (cypresses and eucalypts). The lodge was entirely joined in a single structure, which didn’t really allow for a lot of walking around, but there were plenty of birds to be seen around the lodge, many new to me. During our brief stay there I saw White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Tacazze Sunbird, Eastern Double Collared Sunbird, Cape Robin Chat, Thick-billed Seedeater, Streaky Seedeater, Montane White-eye, Brown Woodland Warbler, Baglafecht Weaver, Hildebrandt’s Spurfowl, Tropical Boubou, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, Mountain Thrush and Common Fiscal. A pair of Peter’s Twinspot was present above their stated altitudinal limit, in scrub near the main bar/dining area which had excellent views. We also had great views of the crater from our room from where I saw Augur Buzzard, African Hobby, White-necked Raven, Olive Pigeon and Dusky Turtle Dove. On our return from the walk on Oldeani on the following day I and a few others were dropped off a couple of km from the lodge and walked back with an armed ranger (Siegfried) through a mosaic of scrub and stunted forest patches. In addition to some others previously mentioned we also saw Hunter’s Cisticola, Bar-throated Apalis and Golden-winged Sunbird. Of particular note was a tiny Brown-backed Woodpecker, pointed out by Glenn (I was very impressed with his spotting abilities) right at dusk in a eucalypt about 20m up or more picking over some peeling bark.
We drove down into the crater on 10/7 July. Mist clung to the higher sides of the crater and the rim, and in some parts didn’t lift until nearly 2pm. The crater itself is almost surreal, and the abundance of larger mammals (aside from the Black Rhinoceros of which we never even had a whiff) lends an impression of a giant open range zoo, which in some way it is since some of the animals there can’t get out. There are short grasslands, longer grasslands, wet grasslands, reeds and rushes, freshwater lakes, soda (alkaline) lakes and Acacia forest in the crater itself (even more different habitats on the sides), and needless to say the list from the crater was quite impressive. I saw Stonechat near the rim, but little else as we descended until we neared the crater floor, where I saw Capped Wheatear, Schallow’s Wheatear and Rufous-naped Lark all close by in short grassland. Further on I saw my first Rosy-breasted Longclaw in longer grass. As we entered the Acacia forest, a flock of Crimson-rumped Waxbill fed in grass and a White-headed Barbet perched in the top of a nearby tree.
The diversity of waterbirds was impressive, even though numbers may have been much lower than at other times. Large flocks of flamingos were on Lake Magadi, mostly too far away from where we were on the road to ID which species, but I did get a good look at some 100 or so Greater Flamingos, the others may have been either spp. At a swamp area near the Acacia (Leerai) forest, I saw Great White Pelican, Sacred Ibis, Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Red-billed Teal and Cape Teal. We stopped to look at lions stalking warthogs, which was fine but we were near but not quite near enough to get good looks at the Hippo Pool which was packed with birds. Most of the birds were too small to see at that distance and I waited about 30 minutes before we moved on another 50m or so which provided crucial closer views. The Hippo Pool held a flock of c.110 Lesser Flamingo along with a nice mix of other birds, including Cape Teal, Red-billed Teal, Hottentot Teal, Black-winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Marsh Sandpiper, White-winged Black Tern, Collared Pratincole, Grey-headed Gull and several Banded Martins hawking for insects. Other crater highlights included distant views of 2 African Marsh Harriers flying low over reeds, and several groups of Ostriches and Kori Bustards. At our lunch stop at a picnic area near a reed flanked wetland, Rufous-tailed Weavers were tame near the cars, flocks of Fan-tailed Widowbirds flew past and African Skimmers rested on the backs of mostly-submerged Hippos.
A brief walk on the grassy slopes of Oldeani, a nearby mountain, revealed Malachite Sunbird, African Swift and a flock of Jackson’s Widowbird.
Lake Manyara
After an earlyish departure from Ngorongoro Crater we made our way to Lake Manyara Serena Lodge, a soaring Shikra being the only highlight of the drive. We entered the park for a short drive on 11/7 to the Hippo Pool, passing through the extensive groundwater forest along the way, where 2 Silvery-cheeked Hornbills perched on bare branches. Near the Hippo Pools I finally saw an African Pygmy-Kingfisher, and the pools themselves had a large variety of waterbirds, including Black-tailed Godwit, Common Sandpiper, Gull-billed Tern, Comb Duck, Red-billed Teal, Spur-winged Lapwing and a flock of c.30 Blacksmith Lapwings. Many birds were further out towards the main body of the lake and were too far away to be identified, but there was a large (c. 500) flock of Great White Pelicans in the distance.
On 12/7 we drove out further along the lake edge and through adjacent woodland as far as the Maji Moto Hot Springs, highlights included Grosbeak Weaver, Red & Yellow Barbet, African Goshawk, Rufous Chatterer, and a large (c. 50) flock of Mosque Swallows resting on the road surface. At the hot springs there were a number of birds down near the lake edge some distance from the road – footsteps in the mud indicated that people had walked here but a nearby buffalo keeping a watch on us tended to keep all visitors much closer to the road, and I wasn’t game to push my luck for closer views. A range of waterbirds were present, highlights being Squacco Heron and Ringed Plover.
The lodge itself is situated on the Great Rift Valley escarpment overlooking the lake and the park and afforded excellent birding, partially because the location outside the park meant that I could keep on wander without restriction. I birded in the grounds and further towards the periphery over the two days here. Even at this late stage of the holiday I saw several new species, including Klaas’s Cuckoo, African Baza, Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting, African Firefinch, African Yellow White-eye, Nyanza Swift, Spotted Palm Thrush and Yellow Bishop. Near the rubbish dump I had excellent views of African Black-headed Oriole, Hildebrandt’s Spurfowl and almost too close views of Marabou Stork (they have huge bills). As the pace of the holiday slowed down I relaxed by the pool one afternoon for a couple of hours and I was lucky to see a wide selection of birds, many drinking at the edge of the swimming pool, including African Silverbill, Crimson-rumped Waxbill, White-browed Robin Chat, Variable Sunbird, Mocking Cliff Chat, White-rumped Swift and Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrike.
On the drive to Arusha the following day I added White-bellied Go-away Bird and Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse to the trip list from roadside sightings.
Arusha
We stayed at Kigongoni Lodge, some 8km from Arusha, for the last 2 nights. The lodge is set on a coffee plantation, with gardens and surrounding plantation offering good birding. Highlights from here included Retz’s Helmet Shrike, Great Sparrowhawk, Lizard Buzzard, African Dusky Flycatcher, Spectacled Weaver, Abyssinian White-eye. In particular I had excellent views of feeding African Green Pigeon feeding in one of the canopy trees in the coffee plantation.
On my last full day in Tanzania (14/7) I headed out for a full day of birding with James Wolstencroft (check out his website his website Birdman ). James is a very easy going and excellent guide who I'd recommend to anyone, and we had a fantastic day. James and his driver Dismass picked me up at 7:00 from the lodge and we headed out to Arusha National Park. Both African Moustached Warbler and Singing Cisticola were catching insects in the warmth of the concrete around the park office at Ngongongare Gate. We then headed up to Momela Gate, on the northern side of the park to meet with our armed ranger guide, stopping along the way to check out a small stream for African Black Duck. No luck on this species, but Spur-winged Goose, Intermediate Egret and Hamerkop were all there. At Momela Gate a flock of Waller’s Starlings and a few Olive Pigeons flew over, while Rufous-backed Mannikin, White-fronted Bee-eater, Speckled Mousebird, African Black-headed Oriole, Black Cuckoo Shrike and Trilling Cisticola were seen in the surrounding scrub and woodland.
We drove up the mist shrouded mountain, adding Scaly Spurfowl and Abyssinian Crimsonwing to my list along the way. We arrived at the viewpoint to Kilimanjaro at c. 2300m asl., unfortunately this seemed to be right in the middle of the cloud. Yellow-crowned Canaries were calling but frustratingly remained unseen, hardly surprising given that the visibility was so poor. We walked back down the road for stretches of 15-30 minutes at a time, then getting in the car and driving further, passing through juniper and podocarp forest. As we walked the cloud slowly lifted, so that by the second stretch we could see clearly to the canopy. Along the way we saw some great birds, including Abbot’s Starling (frustrating views at first, but excellent views of a pair further down the road), White-eared Barbet, Mountain Thrush, Black-headed Mountain Greenbul, African Crowned Eagle, Mountain Buzzard, Stripe-faced Greenbul, Montane White-eye (the broad ringed race eurycricotus), Red-fronted Parrot, Hartlaub’s Turaco, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, Rüpell’s Robin Chat and White-starred Robin. We managed to hear Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Evergreen Forest Warbler and Black-throated Wattle-eye without seeing any of them, but did see a buffalo fairly close so was glad of the ranger’s rifle (even though he didn’t use it) which up until then had seemed somewhat superfluous.
On to Great Momela Lake to check briefly for potential Maccoa Duck, no ducks at all, only a large flock of Little Grebes, but several Long-billed Pipits on the road were new. From here we drove to the Lark Plains north of Mt Meru, where the dry vegetation on the northern side of the results from being in a rain shadow. We drove a large circuit passing through dry Acacia savannah and patches of dry open grassland. Pushed for time to get to the Beesley’s Lark site before dark, we could not stop for too long at a stretch, and many of the birds were only seen from the car, but included Red-fronted Warbler, Grey Wren Warbler, Ashy Cisticola, Black-throated Barbet, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Southern Grosbeak Canary, Fischer’s Starling, Foxy Lark (the most abundant lark in the area and a split from the Fawn-coloured Lark), Short-tailed Lark and White-headed Mousebird. We ended up on a wide open low open grassy plain, where we stopped the car and walked in form the track in search of our target – Beesley’s Lark. On the plain we found a Greater Kestrel, Black-faced Sandgrouse and excellent views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. We soon caught up with a group of 4 Beesley’s Larks. On the drive out we found another group of four on the side of the road. This species is only found on this plain, and recent estimates put the total population at 45 birds. It is a tiny, almost tail-less lark, with a colouring much more subtle than that depicted in the field guide. My last lifer for Tanzania, this was a great finish to a great trip.
Taxonomy
Although I used Stevenson and Fanshawe (2003) as my field guide for the trip, I eventually bought Birds of Africa by Sinclair and Ryan (2003), following advice from James Wolstonecroft that this was more up to date and contained many new splits. I had seen this earlier in the trip, but had no opportunities to purchase it until after I returned. While waiting for my copy of Sinclair and Ryan from Amazon to arrive, I also looked at another list, downloaded from the Tanzania Bird Atlas . Total species seen and total lifers differ only by a few for each list. I essentially followed taxonomy adopted in Sinclair and Ryan, with a few exceptions. After looking into other references as well, I have gone with their acceptance of the recent split of coastal race of Winding Cisticola as Coastal Cisticola, and have accepted their rationale for not following the splitting of Olive Sunbird (whereas the downloadable list did), but I have followed the otherwise widespread practice of keeping Usambiro Barbet as a separate species (Sinclair and Ryan do not give any rationale as to why they do not follow this) nor have I followed their treatment of the White-breasted Cormorant as a separate species rather than a race of Great Cormorant.
In general, I have followed common names used in Sinclair and Ryan, but brackets indicate alternative name or part of name, especially names used in Australia where there is overlap, or other widely used names. In some cases in the text of this report I’ve used names from the brackets since these are either more familiar to me/ more widely used either here or elsewhere outside of Africa, or make more sense since they relate to similar common names of related birds I know. I have listed Singing Bush Lark as a lifer, this is treated in all African guides as Mirafra cantillans, under which scheme the eastern races (including those in Australia) are treated as Australasian (or Horsefield’s) Bush Lark M. javanica.
Species List
Birds underlined are lifers, those marked with an asterisk (*) are introduced, and those marked with (h) were heard only.
1 Common Ostrich: 3 Ruaha NP (20/6); several, from singles to 3’s, in Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP; singles to 3’s in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 2 in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
2 Little Grebe: 1 on small pond, Mikumi NP (22/6, 24/6); 1 at swamp, 3 at Hippo Pool (10/7); many on Momela Lake, Arusha NP (14/7).
3 Black-necked Grebe: 2 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
4 White-breasted (Great) Cormorant: c.35 seen from hotel in Mwanza on lake (6-7/7); 9 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
5 Long-tailed Cormorant: several on Great Ruaha River, upstream from lodge (18/6); 1 at Stone Town Marsh, Zanzibar (2/7); c. 30 on lake near hotel, Mwanza (6-7/7).
6 Great White Pelican: 4 on swamp, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); seen flying over park form Lake Manyara lodge (11/7), and flocks of c. 300 at Hippo Pool (11/7) and c. 500 further along lake shore, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
7 Pink-backed Pelican: 1 flying over hotel at sunset, Mwanza (6/7); 2 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 3 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara (11/7).
8 White-backed Night Heron: pair emerged from thick riverside vegetation on dusk at hippo pool downstream form lodge, Ruaha NP (20/6).
9 Squacco Heron: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); 5 at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
10 Madagascar Pond Heron: 1 on pond in Ngezi Forest, Pemba (30/6) - much darker and streaked than other (Common) Squacco Herons seen on the trip.
11 Cattle Egret: Dar es Salaam, several at airport (17/6) and 2 near Ocean Road (18/6); recorded throughout Pemba, recorded from lodge at Chake (27-28/6), on drive throughout island and also at Makongale Lagoon (30/6); Zanzibar, recorded at Stone Town near Mnazi Mmoja Cricket Grounds (2/7) and edges of coral rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP (3/7); near vicinity of hotel on edges of Lake Victoria, Mwanza (6-7/7); Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
12 Green-backed (Striated) Heron: single birds on river at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6, 21/6); 2 adults and 1 immature on Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 near Vitongoji Beach, Pemba (29/6); 1 roosting in tree in grounds of hotel in Mwanza (6-7/7) and 2 in thick vegetation on adjacent lake edge (6/7).
13 Dimorphic Egret: 1 dark morph bird on Misali Island (28/6) and 2, also dark morph on reef off Vitongoji Beach (29/6).
14 Little Egret: 1, Dar es Salaam (18/6); single birds on Great Ruaha River (18/6, 20/6); abundant on Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); many at hotel in Mwanza and adjacent lake edge (6-7/7); several at Hippo Pool (11/7) and at hot springs (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
15 Great White (Great) Egret: single birds at scattered locations on Great Ruaha River daily (18-20/6); 4 on Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 1 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); single birds at Hippo Pool (11/7) and at hot springs (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
16 Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret: seen on Great Ruaha River (18/6, 20/6); few at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7); 1 on small wetland on Outer Rd, halfway to Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
17 Grey Heron: 1 flying over Ocean Rd and 2 at airport, Dar es Salaam (18/6); single birds seen on Great Ruaha River (18-20/6); 3 on lower Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 at Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6); 1 near mangroves at Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); 5 at hotel in Mwanza and adjacent lake edge (6-7/7); 1 at Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7); 1 on small wetland, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
18 Black-headed Heron: 1 flying over Ocean Rd, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 8 at Makongale Lagoon and few in grass near Manta Reef Lodge, Pemba (30/6); few at hotel in Mwanza and adjacent lake edge (6-7/7); 1 in grassland, Western Corridor (7/7), 1 near Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; 2 at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
19 Goliath Heron: 1 on Great Ruaha River downstream from lodge (20/6).
20 Hamerkop: seen daily at various points along Great Ruaha River, including around lodge (18-21/6); 2 on Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); several around lake near hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 1 at Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 at Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7); 1 on small wetland on Outer Rd, hallways to Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
21 Yellow-billed Stork: 1’s or 2’s at various points along river, Ruaha NP (18-20/6); 1 juv and several adults at Mwanambogo Dam, Mikumi NP (22/6); flocks of up to c. 30 on Wami River, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 in grass near edge of airstrip, Karume Airport, Pemba (1/7) although not listed as occurring on Pemba; several groups seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 1 on Seronera River area, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); seen flying over park form Lake Manyara lodge (11/7); 15 at Hippo Pool (11/7), and 3 on lake edge on drive to hot springs (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
22 African Openbill: 1 at Millennium Dam, Mikumi NP (22/6); flock of c. 40 seen circling overhead from boat on Wami River trip, but also seen from lodge, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 in lakeside vegetation near hotel, Mwanza (6/7); c. 20 wheeling overhead, c. 30km S of Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) on road from Mwanza, several others seen further SW on same drive (7/7).
23 Woolly-necked Stork: common on Wami River, Saadani NP, with flocks to c.15 (26/6); 1 circling over Kisampa (27/6).
24 Saddle-billed Stork: 1-2 birds recorded on Great Ruaha River, Ruaha NP most days (18-21/6); single birds in Mikumi NP (21-22/6).
25 Marabou Stork: 7 at Ruaha NP (20/6); scattered individuals and small groups, including one group of 3 picking through smouldering grasslands after fire, in Mikumi NP (22/6); 8 around lake edge across from hotel (6-7/7), many more soaring over town, Mwanza (6/7); singles to small groups seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); several seen on Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7) and 2 at kill, same area, next day (9/7); 4 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); small numbers at Lake Manyara lodge, including 3 at rubbish dump, (11-12/7); 1 seen over Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
26 Sacred Ibis: Dar es Salaam, several near hotel and on walk nearby on Ocean Rd (17-18/6); near hotel at Mwanza (6/7); recorded on drive from Mwanza to Serengeti and at Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7); flocks in Ngorongoro Crater to c. 30 birds (10/7); Hot Springs, Lake Manyara (12/7).
27 Glossy Ibis: 2 at swamp and 5 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); several at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
28 Hadada Ibis: 3 upstream from lodge (19/6), 4 at Ruaha River Lodge and several further downstream (20/6); 1 on Wami River at Kisampa (25/6); seen from road from SW of Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 6 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 3 at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
29 African Spoonbill: 1 at Swamp, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 5 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
30 Greater Flamingo: c. 300 on Lake Magadi, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); flock of hundreds on Lake Manyara, with scattered singles further around lake including at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
31 Lesser Flamingo: flock of c.150 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
32 White-faced (-Whistling-) Duck: 10 at Mwanambogo Dam, Mikumi NP (22/6); distant views from lodge at Chake of small numbers of this sp. in flight (28/6), and 15 on Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6).
33 White-backed Duck: 1 on Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6).
34 Egyptian Goose: small numbers seen daily at various points along Great Ruaha River, including at lodge (18-21/6); pairs at Hippo Pool (7/7) and on Seronera River (8-9/7), Serengeti NP; small numbers in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); small flocks in Lake Manyara NP (11-12/7).
35 Spur-winged Goose: 2 flying over Ruaha River Lodge (20/6); 6 on small wetland on Outer Rd, hallways to Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
36 Comb (Knob-billed) Duck: 8 on Mwanambogo Dam at Mikumi NP (22/6); 5 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
37 African Pygmy Goose: 5 on Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6).
38 Cape Teal: 1 at swamp and flock of 10+ at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
39 Red-billed Teal: 4 at swamp and 5 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 3 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
40 Hottentot Teal: 3 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
41 African Cuckoo Hawk (African Baza): 1 adult and 1 immature bird together flying over escarpment at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7) and 1 adult following day (12/7).
42 Black-shouldered (Black-winged) Kite: single birds seen hunting over grassland at Kisampa (24/6, 26/6); single birds in grassland, Western Corridor (7/7), and near Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
43 Yellow-billed Kite: 1 at lodge and 5 seen from boat on river trip, Saadani NP (26/6); 1 near Vumawimbi Beach, Pemba (30/6); abundant at Mwanza, with large flock (>50 birds) on hill behind hotel, 3-5 present in hotel grounds at any time (6-7/7); 1 at crater rim near lodge (9/7) and 2 at picnic area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (13/7).
44 African Fish-Eagle: singles to group of four recorded along Great Ruaha River (18-20/6); 1 at Oxbow Lake, Kisampa (25/6); 1 near lodge at Saadani NP (26/6); 2 at hotel, and on hill overlooking hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 1 c. 30km S of Serengeti Gate on road from Mwanza (7/7).
45 Palm-nut Vulture: 1 immature bird on Wami River (25/6) and 3 in riverine forest further upstream (26/6), Kisampa; 1 on Misali Island (28/6) 1 at Ngezi Forest, 2 at Makongale Lagoon (30/6), Pemba.
46 Egyptian Vulture: 1 soaring showing, diagnostic white pattern, Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP.
47 Hooded Vulture: 5 drinking in big mixed vulture group on Great Ruaha River (20/6); 1 at Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 in mixed group at kill, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (8/7).
48 White-backed Vulture: singles to groups, including one on nest, seen on game drive Ruaha NP (19/6), same for game drive downstream following day but also c. 25 drinking with other vulture spp. from pool on Great Ruaha River, c. 1km downstream from junction with Mwagusi River (20/6); individuals to groups including 7 near Millennium Dam, Mikumi NP (22/6, 24/6); groups in Western Corridor (7/7), singles and groups, including mixed with other spp. at kills, on drives in Seronera area (8-9/7), Serengeti NP.
49 Rüppell’s Vulture: at least 1 adult of this sp. (but probably more including, young birds, present) in Western Corridor (7/7), 1 in tree near Hippo Pool (7/7); groups of 4 and 5 at 2 different kills mixed with other spp., Seronera River area (9/7), Serengeti NP; 1 flying Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
50 Lappet-faced Vulture: 1, drinking with other vultures on river, Ruaha NP (20/6); single birds to pairs seen daily on drives in Seronera area, Serengeti NP – often mixed with others at kills (7-9/7).
51 White-headed Vulture: 1 at Millennium Dam, Mikumi NP (22/6) and 1 soaring nearby, Mikumi NP (23/6) – possibly same bird; 1 in Western Corridor (7/7), 2 at kill mixed with other spp., Seronera River area (9/7), Serengeti NP.
52 Black-chested Snake Eagle: 2 flying over domestic terminal, Dar es Salaam airport (18/6); 1 Ruaha NP (20/6); 1 flying over airstrip at Kisampa (24/6); 1 near Hippo Pool, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7/7).
53 Brown Snake Eagle: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (18-19/6) and 1 further downstream, Ruaha NP (20/6).
54 Southern Banded Snake Eagle: 1 in forest on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6).
55 Bateleur: 2 seen on game drive (19/6), 5 seen on drive downstream from lodge (20/6), Ruaha NP; 1 at Mikumi NP (22/6, 24/6); 1 over grassland at Kisampa (24/6); 1 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
56 African Harrier Hawk: 1 at Kisampa (27/6).
57 African Marsh Harrier: 2 flying low over reeds, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
58 Eastern Chanting Goshawk: 1 at Msembe near airstrip (18/6), pair, one, possibly one of the same, in nearby area, Ruaha NP (20/6); 1 on plains W of Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7).
59 Gabar Goshawk: 3 individuals at different locations on drive, and 3 in woodland edge, including 1 dark morph, seen from camp in Mikumi NP (22/6); 2 seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); pair [1 dark morph, 1 grey morph] near Seronera River, Serengeti NP (9/7).
60 Great Sparrowhawk: 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
61 Little Sparrowhawk: pair flew over Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); 1 adult in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
62 African Goshawk: 1 in forest, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
63 Shikra: 1 flying over cultivation near roadside stalls, between Karatu and Mto Wa Mbu (11/7).
64 Lizard Buzzard: 1 on wire, roadside in Kidodi district S of Mikumi (23/6); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
65 Mountain Buzzard: 1 over forest at Sanje Falls, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); 2 over forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
66 Augur Buzzard: 1 immature bird, seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 1 adult near crater rim, seen from lodge (9/7), and several in crater (10/7), Ngorongoro CA; 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 1 over forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
67 Tawny Eagle: 1 (18/6) and 2 (19/6) seen in Ruaha NP; 1 in western corridor (7/7), 1 on drive to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; 1 over crater rim, seen from lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9/7); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
68 Wahlberg’s Eagle: 1 upstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (19/6).
69 Verreaux’s Eagle: 1 soaring, downstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (20/6).
70 African Hawk Eagle: 1 seen on nest (19/6) and another further downstream (20/6), Ruaha NP.
71 Long-crested Eagle: 2 together, downstream from lodge in Ruaha NP (20/6).
72 African Crowned Eagle: 1 over forest at Sanje Falls, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); 1 near crater rim on drive out from Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 2 over forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
73 Martial Eagle: 1 downstream form lodge, Ruaha NP (20/6); 1 in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
74 Secretary Bird: 1 in grassland near Hippo Pool (7/7) and 2 in open short grassland on drive to Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP.
75 Pygmy Falcon: 1 male, Western Corridor (7/7), 1 female on drive near Hippo Pool (7/7), and pair seen distant from lodge, Seronera area (9/7), Serengeti NP; 1 male, roadside between Lake Manyara and Arusha (13/7).
76 Greater Kestrel: 1single and 1 pair at nest in low open grassland plains between Seronera and Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 1 at Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
77 Grey Kestrel: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (18/6), 1 on game drives upstream and downstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (19/6).
78 Dickinson’s Kestrel: 1 chasing bats at dusk flew right over veranda of lodge in Chake, seen exceptionally well (27/6), also in farmland adjacent to plantation near Makongale Lagoon, northern Pemba (30/6).
79 African Hobby: 1 seen from room at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9/7).
80 Lanner Falcon: 2 in Ruaha NP (19/6); 1 seen from road SW of Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 1 roadside on drive from Lake Manyara to Arusha (13/7).
81 Peregrine Falcon: 1 flying over hotel at dusk, Mwanza (6/7).
82 Coqui Francolin: 1 female in grassland seen on Seronera River Drive (8/7).
83 Crested Francolin: small flocks seen on game drives downstream (18/6) and upstream (20/6) from lodge, Ruaha NP; 1 Kisampa (25/6); 1 in grassland, Western Corridor (7/7) and in Seronera River area (8/7), Serengeti NP.
84 Shelley’s Francolin: 3 single sightings, Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP.
85 Hildebrandt’s Spurfowl (-Francolin): 2 (9/7) and 3(11/7) on edges of scrub at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim, and also in Acacia forest in crater (10/7), Ngorongoro CA; 3 in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge, singles on edge of lodge, and in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
86 Scaly Spurfowl (-Francolin): 3 in forest edge on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
87 Red-necked Spurfowl: flocks common in Ruaha NP, seen daily (18-21/6); seen most days at Mikumi NP, including at camp (21-24/6); 1 in thick grass at Kisampa (25/6); 3 in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
88 Grey-breasted Spurfowl: 3 at Ndabaka Gate, several parties in Western Corridor (7/7), and 3 on drive to Hippo Pool(7/7), Serengeti NP.
89 Yellow-necked Spurfowl: several individuals and groups, in dry Acacia savannah in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (15/7).
90 Harlequin Quail: 1 flushed in long grass, Mikumi NP (22/6).
91 Crested Guineafowl: 2 in Zaraninge Forest, Saadani NP (26/6).
92 Helmeted Guineafowl: seen daily in Ruaha NP (18-21/6); several flocks seen in Mikumi NP (21-22/6); flocks seen in Western Corridor (7/7), at lodge, Seronera (7/7) and on game driver to Seronera River area (8/7), Serengeti NP.
93 Kurrichane (Small) Buttonquail: 1 flushed from track in grassland, Mikumi NP (22/6).
94 Black Crake: 1(am) and 2(pm) birds in different location on edge of pools on Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7).
95 Allen’s Gallinule: 1 in Eichornia fringing lake, near hotel, Mwanza (6/7).
96 Common Moorhen: 2 on small pond in Ngezi forest, 5 on Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6).
97 Red-knobbed Coot: 1 on swamp, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
98 Grey Crowned Crane: pairs to larger flocks of c.15 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
99 Kori Bustard: 2 in short grass, Seronera area, not far from airstrip, Serengeti NP (8/7); several groups in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
100 Buff-crested Bustard: 2 seen on game drive downstream from lodge (19/6), 1 seen further downstream (20/6), Ruaha NP.
101 White-bellied Bustard: 1 in grassland at Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 male each in grassland in Seronera area, on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7), and on drive to Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP.
102 Black-bellied Bustard: 2 in long grassland at Mikumi NP (21/6).
103 African Jacana: 2 on Oxbow Lake, Kisampa (25/6); 4 on Makongale Lagoon, Pemba (30/6); 1 in Stone Town Marsh, Zanzibar (2/7).
104 Black-winged Stilt: single birds on river, Ruaha NP (20-21/6); c. 15 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); flocks in Lake Manyara NP (11-12/7).
105 Pied Avocet: 6 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7), 8 on lake, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
106 Crab Plover: 1 immature on beach near lodge, Sadani NP (26/6).
107 Water Thick-knee: 1 in vegetation near Great Ruaha River upstream of lodge (18/6), 1 downstream of lodge (20/6); 13 at Hippo Pool, Mikumi NP (22/6).
108 Two-banded Courser: 1 on ground in open short grassland, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (8/7).
109 Violet-tipped Courser: 2 on burnt ground in open Baobab woodland, near Mwagusi River, Ruaha NP (20/6); 1 on road in grassland, Mikumi NP (22/6).
110 Temminck’s Courser: 1 in low open grassland plains between Seronera and Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7).
111 Collared Pranticole: 1 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
112 Ringed Plover: 2 at hot springs, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
113 Kittlitz’s Plover: 1 on sandbank in river upstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (18/6); 1 Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7); singles at lake and at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 on lakeshore, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
114 Three-banded Plover: seen daily on Great Ruaha River, especially near lodge (18-21/6);
115 White-fronted Plover: 2 on beach near Sadani lodge, Sadani NP (26/6).
116 Wattled Lapwing (-Plover): 2 on small creek, Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP.
117 White-crowned Lapwing (-Plover): common on Great Ruaha River, especially in vicinity of lodge where recorded most days (18-21/6); 2 pairs present on lower Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6).
118 Blacksmith Lapwing (-Plover): 1 adult and 1 imm on Great Ruaha River (20/6); 1 at Mwanambogo Dam and 3 at Hippo Pool, Mikumi NP (22/6); 2 at Hippo Pool (7/7) and 3 on Seronera River (7/7), Serengeti NP; several in edges of various wetlands, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); flock of c. 30 at Hippo Pool, with singles nearby, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
119 Spur-winged Lapwing (-Plover): 3 on Great Ruaha River, downstream from lodge (20/6); 3 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
120 Senegal Lapwing (-Plover): 2 on Kisampa airstrip at night (25/6); 2 on short grass in Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP.
121 Black-winged Lapwing (-Plover): 2 together (pairs?) in short grass on drives to Hippo Pool (7/7), Seronera River (8/7) and drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
122 Crowned Lapwing (-Plover): 2 in area of short grass upstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (18/6) and 2 seen downstream from lodge in similar situation (20/6); abundant in Mikumi NP, especially in short grass, recorded daily (21-24/6); abundant in Western Corridor (7/7) 4 in short grass, Seronera area (8/7) and quite common in short grass plains between Seronera and Naabi hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; 1 in short grass, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); seen roadside between Lake Manyara and Arusha (13/7).
123 Black-tailed Godwit: 1 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
124 Whimbrel: 2 flying over ocean at Dar es Salaam (18/6); c. 20 on ocean side of mangroves, Wami River mouth, Sadani NP (26/6).
125 Marsh Sandpiper: 1 at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
126 Greenshank: 1 on river, Ruaha NP (20/6); c.15 on ocean side of mangroves, Wami River mouth, Sadani NP (26/6); 1 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
127 Common Sandpiper: 1 at Hippo Pool (11/7) and 2 at Hot Springs (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
128 Sooty Gull: singles to 3s off beach at Stone Town, Zanzibar, most days (1-5/7).
129 Grey-headed Gull: 1 at swamp and several at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
130 Gull-billed Tern: 1 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
131 Caspian Tern: 1 over ocean near Wami River mouth, Sadani NP (26/6).
132 Swift (Greater Crested or Crested) Tern: 1 over ocean near Wami River mouth, Sadani NP (26/6).
133 Lesser Crested Tern: 6 around, and on trip to/from, Misali Island, Pemba, seen very well, definitely not Swift (Crested) (28/6), flock of 15 seen from Manta Reef Lodge on north-western tip of island (30/6), Pemba; 2 off beach at Stone Town, Zanzibar (1/7).
134 Common Tern: c.12 flying over ocean, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 10 over ocean near Wami River mouth, Sadani NP (26/6).
135 Whiskered Tern: single birds and some mixed with White-winged (-Black)Terns in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
136 White-winged (White-winged Black) Tern: small flock at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
137 African Skimmer: 3, resting on backs of Hippos, at picnic area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
138 Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse: 3 flying over road between Lake Manyara and Arusha (13/7); pair at Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
139 Black-faced Sandgrouse: 4 flying over, upstream from lodge (18/6), pair with chicks on road c. 4km from lodge (19/6), Ruaha NP; 2 at Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
140 Yellow-throated Sandgrouse: flock of 10 in short grassland, western corridor, Serengeti NP (7/7); 1 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
141 Speckled Pigeon: 1 in thick riverine vegetation, near junction of Mwagusi River, Ruaha NP (20/6); few at hotel, Mwanza (6-7/7); several near Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 2 at Lake Manyara lodge (12-13/7); 2 at Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
142 Olive Pigeon: 3 single birds at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9/7); 1 at Momela Gate and several over and I canopy of forest, between Kilimanjaro view and Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
143 *Feral Pigeon: 3 outskirts of Mikumi (23/6); few on outskirts of Chake, Pemba (29/6).
144 Dusky Turtle Dove: several at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9/7).
145 Laughing Dove: seen at Ruaha River Lodge (18/6, 21/6); 1 at hotel, Mwanza (6/7); seen in Western Corridor (7/7), and 1 on drive to Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; in Acacia forest, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); seen at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7) and in Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
146 African Mourning Dove: 2 at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6); 1 at Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 at hotel, Mwanza (6-7/7) and 2 in scrub near cemetery, SE of hotel (6/7).
147 Ring-necked Dove: common in Ruaha NP, recorded daily throughout including around lodge (18-21/6); Mikumi NP (21-22/6); near camp and on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); seen on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) to Seronera River (8/7) and drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; in Acacia forest, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); Lake Manyara lodge and in Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
148 Red-eyed Dove: seen at Ruaha River Lodge (18, 20-21/6); Kisampa (25/6, 27/6); easily the most abundant bird on Misali Island, perhaps 100 or so, seen in the forest and moving to and from the island (28/6), but in Pemba also seen on walk from Chake to Vitongoji (29/6) and 3 birds near Manta Reef Lodge (30/6); 2 at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7), also seen at Lake Manyara NP (12/7); seen at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
149 Emerald-spotted Wood Dove: seen almost daily in Ruaha NP including around lodge, often as flushed birds but a few seen perched (18-21/6); few birds seen at different locations in Mikumi NP (21-22/6); pair at Kisampa, seen several times in same area throughout day, often on road (25/6); 2 in cultivation at Makongale, Pemba; 1 in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); 1 in bush, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (8/7); heard at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 1 at Lake Manyara NP near Hippo Pool (11/7).
150 Tambourine Dove: 1 male flew near Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); 1 in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); single female at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
151 Namaqua Dove: quite common in dry open vegetation on broad plain of Great Ruaha River downstream from Msembe (20/6); 1 near isolated kopje, on Seronera River drive, Serengeti NP (8/7).
152 African Green Pigeon: 2 in figs on isolated kopje, Seronera River drive, Serengeti NP (8/7); 2 flying near forest edge, Lake Manyara NP (11/7); brilliant views of 4 feeding in fruiting tree in plantation, Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
153 Pemba Green Pigeon: 2 in flight on edge of coastal forest, Makongale, Pemba (30/6).
154 Red-fronted Parrot: several seen in forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
155 Brown Parrot: small numbers seen at scattered locations in Ruaha NP most days, including near lodge (18-21/6); singles to 3 together seen daily on drives in Serengeti in Seronera area (7-9/7).
156 Brown-headed Parrot: 3 (22/6) and 2 (24/6) in miombo and wooded grassland, Mikumi NP; 4 at Kisampa (24/6); 2 seen from lodge, Chake (29/6) and 4 at Makongale (30/6).
157 Fischer’s Lovebird: small flocks, some seen at very close range, on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) and Seronera River area (8/7), Serengeti NP.
158 Yellow-collared Lovebird: flocks up to c. 30 birds recorded most days for Ruaha NP, including around lodge (18-21/6).
159 Hartlaub’s Turaco: 2 seen (and more heard) in forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
160 Bare-faced Go-away Bird: small groups seen daily in Ruaha NP including around lodge (18-21/6); 3 seen on game drives to Seronera River area (8/7).
161 White-bellied Go-away Bird: several pairs seen near roadside between Lake Manyara and Arusha (13/7).
162 Klaas’s Cuckoo: 1 male in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
163 Green Malkoha (-Yellowbill): 1 in scrub near airstrip, Sadani NP (26/6); 1 heard only in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
164 White-browed Coucal: 2 at Ruaha NP (20/6); singles to 3 birds together in long grass in Mikumi NP, recorded most days (21-24/6); 1 in grass at Kisampa (24/6); 2 on Misali Island, Pemba, with 1 foraging out on shore of island form under cover of overhanging vegetation (28/6); 1 in Western Corridor (7/7), on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7) and on drive to Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; 1 in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 1 at Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
165 Spotted Eagle Owl: 1 seen at dusk (still visible) on Great Ruaha River, downstream from lodge (20/6).
166 Verreaux’s Eagle Owl: 2 seen from camp in wooded grassland at sunrise, Mikumi NP (22/6).
167 Pearl-spotted Owlet: 1 seen late afternoon on drive upstream from lodge (19/6), another perched in tree behind room at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); heard at night, Foxes Safari Camp, Mikumi NP (22/6).
167a African Wood Owl: heard at Kisampa (25/6).
168 Fiery-necked Nightjar: 8 birds positively ID’d on airstrip and nearby at Kisampa, others present may have been this sp. (25/6).
169 Dusky Nightjar: 1 flushed from cover on walk below lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7).
170 Square-tailed Nightjar: at least 4 birds positively ID’d as this sp., but more possible, at Kisampa airstrip, (25/6).
171 Bohm’s Spinetail: small flocks hawking for insects upstream from lodge over Great Ruaha River (18/6) and at lodge (21/6).
172 (African) Palm Swift: recorded Dar es Salaam, including at airport (17-18/6); in riverine forest at Kisampa (26/6); common on Pemba in vicinity of Chake, recorded most days, but also several on Misali Island (28/6) and on walk to Vitongoji Beach (29/6); near hotel at Mwanza (5-6/7).
173 Alpine Swift: 1 mixed with Little Swifts, flying over lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7/7).
174 Mottled Swift: 1 at lodge, Seronera Serengeti NP (8/7).
175 Nyanza Swift: flocks over escarpment at Lake Manyara lodge, noticeably more contrasting in colour to following species (11-12/7).
176 African (Black) Swift: 10 over grassland at Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7).
177 Little Swift: several flying over Ocean Rd, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); 3 on Misali Island, Pemba (28/6); few at hotel in Mwanza and adjacent lake edge (6/7); flocks seen daily at and near lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7-9/7); flock over Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7); seen at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
178 White-rumped Swift: Ruaha River Lodge (18/6); several at lodge, Seronera Serengeti NP (9/7); several at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
179 Speckled Mousebird: 4 near Oxbow Lake (25/6) on track to Matapwili (27/6), Kisampa; 4 in scrub near airstrip, Sadani NP (26/6); few in grounds of hotel, Mwanza (6/7); flock on Seronera River drive (8/7); 5 at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9/7); 4 in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 5 at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
180 White-headed Mousebird: 4 in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
181 Blue-naped Mousebird: 1 at Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 near gate (11/7) and flock on drive to hot springs (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
182 Narina Trogon: 1 female Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
183 Malachite Kingfisher: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); 1 on edge of miombo, Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); 1 at hotel and 3 nearby on lake edge, Mwanza (6/7).
184 African Pygmy-Kingfisher: 1 heard but remained unseen in mangroves, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); 1 in Acacia woodland near Hippo Pool (11/7).
185 Brown-hooded Kingfisher: 1 at base of Sanje Falls trail, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); several roadside between Kidatu and Mikumi (23/6); common on Wami River at Kisampa (25/6).
186 Grey-headed Kingfisher: single bird seen in same area, in wooded grassland at Mikumi NP (22/6, 24/6); 1 near hotel in Mwanza on adjacent lake edge (6/7); several seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); 1 at Hippo Pool, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 near Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
187 Woodland Kingfisher: 1 near river downstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (19/6).
188 Mangrove Kingfisher: 3 on Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6); 1 on Misali Island (28/6) and 2 in garden of lodge, Chake, Pemba (29/6).
189 Striped Kingfisher: 1 in botanic gardens, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 1 near camp and several pairs on Wami River, at Kisampa (25/6); 1 on Seronera River, Serengeti NP (7/7); single birds in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
190 Giant Kingfisher: pair near river, c. 5km downstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (19/6); pair on Wami River at Kisampa (25/6).
191 Pied Kingfisher: several perched on rocks in water and flying over ocean, Dar es Salaam (18/6); groups (up to 7 birds) on Great Ruaha River daily, conspicuous near lodge (18-21/6); several pairs on Wami River at Kisampa (25/6); common on Wami River at Sadani NP (26/6); 1 on Misali Island, Pemba (28/6); common at hotel in Mwanza and adjacent lake edge (6-7/7); seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7).
192 Little Bee-eater: small flocks seen in several places in Ruaha NP daily (18-20/6); 3 birds in Mikumi NP (21/6); 2 on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); 2 at Hippo Pool (7/7) and also on drive to Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; small flocks in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
193 White-fronted Bee-eater: flock of c. 30 at nest area on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); flock at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
194 Madagascar Bee-eater: 2 near camp at Kisampa (24/6); 10 on Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6); 4 near Vitongoji (29/6) and 5 over cultivation near Makongale Lagoon (30/6), Pemba.
195 Lilac-breasted Roller: singles seen in many locations in Ruaha NP on most days including at lodge (18-21/6); single birds seen at several locations in Mikumi NP (21/6); 1 seen in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); several single birds in Western Corridor (7/7) and also seen daily on drives (7-9/7), Serengeti NP.
196 Rufous-crowned Roller: single birds seen on game drives in Ruaha NP (19/6, 20/6).
197 Broad-billed Roller: 3 on Wami River at Kisampa (25/6); single birds seen in Pemba from lodge veranda, Chake (29/6) near Vitongoji (29/6) and near Makongale Lagoon (30/6); 1 seen from road in cultivation, c. 10km from Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar.
198 Green Wood Hoopoe: 1 on drive to Mwanambogo Dam at Mikumi NP (22/6), 2 at camp, Mikumi NP (24/6); 5 in Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6); flock of 5 picking over tree trunk in plantation at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
199 Common Scimitarbill: 2 near camp (24/6) and single birds near camp and on Wami River (25/6) at Kisampa.
200 African Hoopoe: 1 in grassland at Mikumi NP (24/6).
201 Northern Red-billed Hornbill: several individuals in Western Corridor (7/7), seen near restaurant where tame, at lodge, Seronera (8-9/7), and also on drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
202 Tanzanian (Ruaha) Red-billed Hornbill: recorded daily throughout Ruaha NP, including at lodge where tame near restaurant area.
203 Von der Decken’s Hornbill: at Ruaha NP seen on drive from Msembe airstrip to Ruaha River Lodge (18/6), recorded several times at lodge over most days, quite tame near restaurant, also seen on game drives (18-20/6); 1 at Mikumi NP (21/6); in Serengeti NP, 1 in Western Corridor (7/7), seen daily at lodge, Seronera (7-9/7) and also on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7) - quite tame near lodge; 1 in Lake Manyara NP (12/7); several in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
204 Crowned Hornbill: 2 at Ruaha NP (19/6); singles seen at Kisampa (24-25/6, 27/6); 2 in Ngezi Forest, Pemba (30/6); heard but remained unseen in coastal Red Mahogany forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); seen in Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP; 2 (11/7) and 1 (12/7) in forest, Lake Manyara NP.
205 Pale-billed Hornbill: 4 in miombo in Mikumi NP (22/6).
206 African Grey Hornbill: common in Mikumi NP, seen at many locations (21-24/6); 1 on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7) and 2 on Seronera River drive (8/7), Serengeti NP; 1 in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
207 Trumpeter Hornbill: 1 in forest at Vuma Hills, Mikumi NP (22/6); singles to pairs seen at Kisampa most days, usually near Wami River, or moving to/from river at dawn/dusk (24-27/6); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
208 Silvery-cheeked Hornbill: 1 in canopy, Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6); 2 in forest at Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
209 Southern Ground Hornbill: 4 Ruaha NP, near junction of Mwagusi River (20/6); 3 in grassland, (21/6) and 4 poking around in freshly burnt areas after fire, Mikumi NP (23/6).
210 White-eared Barbet: pair in forest on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
211 Green Barbet: 1 in flight in bush near camp, Kisampa (24/6).
211a Moustached Green Tinkerbird: heard only in forest on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
212 Red-fronted Tinkerbird: 1 in Acacia in front of room, at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
213 Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird: 2 seen (but several more heard only) in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7). Bird guide Juma whistled these in for spectacularly close views.
214 Spot-flanked Barbet: 1 near airstrip (24/6) and 2 in savannah on river flat (26/6) at Kisampa; single birds seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); pair in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
215 Red-fronted Barbet: 1 in Acacia over Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7); close views of a pair at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 1 in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
216 Black-throated Barbet: 1 in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
217 Black-collared Barbet: 2 near camp at Kisampa (25/6).
218 Brown-breasted Barbet: 1 on window ledge of hotel, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 1 in scrub near Sadani Airstrip (26/6); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
219 White-headed Barbet: 1 in top of tree, Acacia forest in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 2 (11/7) and 1(12/7) at Lake Manyara lodge, and 1 in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
220 Red & Yellow Barbet: 3 birds together, in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
221 d’Arnaud’s Barbet: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (18/6), 1 also seen further downstream in NP (20/6); 1 in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
222 Usambiro Barbet: 1 seen on game drive in Acacia scrub not far from lodge, Seronera, (7/7) and 1 in savannah on game drive to Seronera River area (8/7), Serengeti NP.
223 Greater Honeyguide: 1 Ruaha NP (19/6); 1 immature near dining area of camp, Mikumi NP (24/6).
224 Lesser Honeyguide: 1 near camp at Kisampa (25/6); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
225 Nubian Woodpecker: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6).
226 Golden-tailed Woodpecker: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (20/6).
227 Mombasa Woodpecker: 1 in mixed bird party near tent at Kisampa (27/6).
228 (Little Spotted) Green-backed Woodpecker: 1 in mangroves on Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6).
229 Cardinal Woodpecker: pair at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6, 21/6); 1 male in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); pair in bush, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (8/7); pair in grass in Acacia forest, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 male at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
230 Brown-backed Woodpecker: 1 high up in eucalypt near edge of lodge grounds, Ngorongoro Crater rim (10/7).
231 Singing Bush Lark: 1 near junction of road to lodge and main road, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (9/7).
232 Rufous-naped Lark: singles in grassland, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7-8/7); 1 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
233 Flappet Lark: 1-2 in grassland near Wami River, Kisampa (25-26/6); 1 in grassland, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (9/7).
234 Foxy Lark: most abundant lark in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7) – sometimes treated as a race of Fawn-coloured Lark.
235 Beesley’s Lark: 2 groups of 4 in short open grassland on Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7) – previously included in Spike-heeled Lark.
236 Red-capped Lark: 1 on road in short grassland, Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP; common in short grass, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); large numbers in some areas in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (45/7).
237 Athi Short-toed Lark: 1 in short grassland in Seronera area (near airstrip), Serengeti NP (8/7).
238 Short-tailed Lark: large numbers in short grassland in some areas of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
239 Fischer’s Sparrowlark: many in Ruaha NP in grassland (20/6); abundant in grassland in Mikumi NP (21/6); many in short grassland, Western Corridor (7/7), several seen on drive in Seronera River area (8/7), Serengeti NP.
240 Black Saw-wing: 4 over forest at Sanje Falls, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); small flock over forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
241 White-headed Saw-wing: 1 on drive from Msembe airstrip to Ruaha River Lodge, Ruaha NP (18/6).
242 Brown-throated (Plain) Martin: seen most days in Ruaha NP, usually near water including at lodge (18-21/6); seen at Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7).
243 Banded Martin: 6 flying over grassland at Hippo Pool, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
244 Grey-rumped Swallow: several over grassed airstrip, Ngwazi, southern highlands (21/6).
245 Mosque Swallow: single birds seen on drive from Msembe airstrip to lodge (18-6) and on game drive over Great Ruaha River (19/6), Ruaha NP; 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6); at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7); flock of c. 50 on road surface, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
246 Lesser Striped Swallow: a few birds seen at Ruaha River Lodge (18, 21/6) and further upstream (18/6); in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); seen daily at lodge (8-9/7) and also at Hippo Pool (7/7), Seronera area, Serengeti NP; several at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
247 Red-rumped Swallow: 1 at lodge, Seronera (7/7), and 3 at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7) Serengeti NP; 3 at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 1 at Kilimanjaro airport (15/7).
248 (African-) Rock Martin: 1 at Msembe near airstrip (18/6), but also small numbers recorded most days in vicinity of Ruaha River Lodge, Ruaha NP (18-21/6); seen at lodge, Seronera (8/7) and at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7); flock in Acacia forest, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
249 Wire-tailed Swallow: 1 at Msembe near airstrip (18/6), also at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6)and upstream on game drive (18/6), Ruaha NP; several near Wami River at different locations, Kisampa (25/6, 26/6); single birds seen in Pemba at lodge, Chake (29/6) and also nearby at Karume Airport (1/7); seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7) seen at Hippo Pool (7/7) and on Seronera River drive (8/7) Serengeti NP.
250 Angola Swallow: several roadside, c.15km before Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7).
251 African Pied Wagtail: 1 at domestic terminal, Dar es Salaam airport (18/6); seen daily in various locations on Great Ruaha River, including lodge (18-21/6); 1 on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); seen daily at hotel, Mwanza (6-7/7); 1 at Hippo Pool (7/7) and on Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; 1 at pool, Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
251aa Golden Pipit: heard in grassland at Mikumi NP (22/6).
252 African (Grassland) Pipit: 1 on golf course, Dar es Salaam (18/6); several in grassland in Mikumi NP (22/6, 24/6); 1 in grassland near Manta Reef Lodge, northern Pemba (30/6); 1 in damp grass in park near Mnazi Mmoja cricket grounds, Stone Town, Zanzibar (2/7); 2 in short grassland on drive to Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7).
253 Long-billed Pipit: 2 single birds on road in scrub near Momela Lakes, Arusha NP (14/7).
254 Plain-backed Pipit: 1 in short grassland on plains between Seronera and Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7). Other pipits seen in Serengeti here and previous days but views not sufficient for ID.
255 Yellow-throated Longclaw: 3 in grassland, Mikumi NP (22/6); 2 in long grass at airstrip Kisampa (24/6, 27/6); 1 imm in grass, Seronera River drive, Serengeti NP (8/7).
256 Rosy-breasted Longclaw: 1 immature and 2 adult males in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
257 Black Cuckoo Shrike: pair near tent, in mixed feeding flock, Kisampa (27/6); 1 male at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
258 Black-headed Mountain Greenbul: single birds in grounds of lodge, NgorongoroCrater (9-10/11); several individuals in forest at various points on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
259 Stripe-faced Greenbul: 2 in forest on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
260 Sombre Greenbul: common in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
261 Yellow-bellied Greenbul: 2 in mixed feeding flock near tent, Kisampa (27/6); singles and pairs in and near Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
262 Yellow-streaked Greenbul: 1 in Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
263 Tiny Greenbul: 1 in Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
264 Dark-capped Bulbul: Recorded daily in Ruaha NP, especially around lodge (18-21/6); in forest at Sanje Falls, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); seen at Kisampa (24-25/6); several in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); common in and around hotel, Mwanza (6/7); seen around lodge, Seronera Serengeti NP (7-8/9); several at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7); 1 near lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); common at and near Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); seen at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7). Previously lumped with Common Bulbul.
265 Mountain Thrush: Single birds in grounds of lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9-10/7); 1 on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
266 White-starred Robin: 2 single birds in undergrowth at separate locations on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
267 Cape Robin Chat: single birds in scrub in grounds of lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9/7, 11/7).
268 Rüppell’s Robin Chat: 1 in thick forest undergrowth, between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
269 White-browed Robin Chat: single birds at Lake Manyara lodge, seen very well drinking at pool edge (12/7).
270 Red-capped Robin Chat: 1 in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7) – thanks to guide Juma for his talents and persistence in finding this one for me even if it was a brief view.
271 Spotted (-Morning) Palm Thrush: singles and pairs seen at Lake Manyara lodge daily, where conspicuous (11-12/7).
272 Bearded Scrub Robin: 1 in scrub near Sadani Safari Lodge, Sadani NP (26/6); 1 near tent at Kisampa (27/6).
273 White-browed Scrub Robin: 1 at Ruaha NP (19/6); single birds seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
274 Stonechat: 1 near Ngorongoro Crater rim at descent road, and also several in grassland, Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7); 1 at Ngongongare Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
275 Schalow’s Wheatear: 2 in grassland near base of Ngorongoro Crater, and several in montane grassland, Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7).
276 Capped Wheatear: 1 in open grassland Ruaha NP (20/6); 1 in open low grassland, Mikumi NP (21/6); common in low open grassland plains between Seronera and Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); in grassland in Ngorongoro Crater, and also in grassland on Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7); 1 at Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
277 Mocking Cliff-Chat: singles and pair conspicuous at Lake Manyara lodge, where seen daily (11-12/7).
278 Cinnamon Bracken Warbler: 1 seen well, 1 other glimpsed briefly in flight, and others heard only, in thick forest undergrowth on road edge between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
278a Evergreen Forest Warbler: heard only at several locations in forest undergrowth on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
279 African Moustached Warbler: 2 in thick vegetation overhanging water, Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); 1 feeding on insects out in open on veranda of park office, Ngongongare Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
280 Lesser Swamp Warbler: 2 at Stone Town Marsh, Zanzibar (2/7); 1 in thick vegetation on lake edge next to hotel in Mwanza, 2 in same habitat further along lake shore (6/7).
281 Green-capped Eremomela: single birds seen, in thick growth of vines and canopy of bush near camp (25/6), and in canopy of woodland in mixed bird party near tent (27/6) at Kisampa.
282 Red-faced Crombec: 1 in miombo, Mikumi NP (22/6); 1 in Acacia at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7/7, 9/7); 1 in acacia at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
283 Brown Woodland Warbler: 1 (9/7) and flock of 5 (11/7) at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim; 1 in forest on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
284 Banded Parisoma: 1 in Acacia at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7).
285 Pectoral-patch Cisticola: several in low grassland, drive to Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 3 together in short grassland, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
286 Desert Cisticola: several seen well in grassland at Mikumi (22/6, 24/6);
287 Zitting Cisticola: in grassland, Ruaha NP (20/6); common in grassland at Mikumi NP including around camp (22/6, 24/6); 1 in grassland near Manta Reef Lodge, northern Pemba (30/6); 1 in damp grass in park, near Mnazi Mmoja cricket grounds, Stone Town, Zanzibar (2/7).
288 Croaking Cisticola: 1 seen and heard well, in grassland, Seronera River area, Serengeti NP (8/7).
289 Stout Cisticola: 2 in grassland, Seronera area (8/7), and 1 near turnoff to lodge from main road (9/7) Serengeti NP.
290 Ashy Cisticola: 1 in dry Acacia savannah in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (1547).
291 Rattling Cisticola: 1 Ruaha NP (20/6); 1-2 on drives to Seronera River area (8/7) and 1 at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; single birds seen daily in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7) and near lake (12/7), Lake Manyara NP.
292 Siffling Cisticola: 2 in grassland on ridge to west of Msembe, Ruaha NP (20/6).
293 Piping Cisticola: single birds in long grass near camp area, especially near tent, but also near river, Kisampa (25-26/6).
294 Trilling Cisticola: 1 in shrubby undergrowth at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
295 Singing Cisticola: single bird then later 2 together in another area, in thick shrubby growth near camp, Kisampa (25/6); 1 feeding on insects out in open on veranda of park office, Ngongongare Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
296 Hunter’s Cisticola: 2 in thick shrubby growth, on walk near lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
297 Winding Cisticola: 15+ birds in singles to 3s, in thick reeds and rushes on lake edge adjacent to hotel in Mwanza (6/7); 1 in waterside vegetation, Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 in waterside vegetation, near Hippo Pool, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
298 Coastal Cisticola: in savannah, near Oxbow Lake (25/6) and near Wami River (26/6), Kisampa. Recent split form Winding Cisticola
299 Tawny-flanked Prinia: 1 in thick growth near river, downstream from lodge, Ruaha NP (19/6); single birds seen at a number of sites at Kisampa including near tent (25/6, 27/6), in bush undergrowth near camp (25/6) and at Oxbow Lake (25/7); 1 in scrub near cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 1 in grounds of lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9/7); singles at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
300 Red-fronted Warbler: several groups in dry Acacia savannah in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
301 Buff-bellied Warbler: 3 in Acacia at lodge, Seronera area (8/7), also in Acacia at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
302 Yellow-breasted Apalis: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6); 1 at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
303 Bar-throated Apalis: 1 in shrubby growth on walk near lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (10/7).
304 Black-headed Apalis: pair in canopy, Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
305 Grey-backed Camaroptera: single birds seen Ruaha River Lodge (19/6, 20/6); 1 in scrub at Capri Point, further SW along lake shore from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 1 at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 in Lake Manyara NP (12/7); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
306 Green-backed Camaroptera: single birds seen at Kisampa on walk near camp and also near tent same day (25/6); seen in low forest on coral rag, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
307 Grey Wren Warbler: 1 in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
308 African Grey Flycatcher: 1 in acacia at Msembe near airstrip, Ruaha NP (18/6); 1 at lodge, Seronera (7/7, 9/7) on drive to Seronera River, in Acacia/Comiphora thicket (8/7), 1 each on drive to Naabi Hill Gate and at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; 1 in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
309 Pale Flycatcher: single birds in 2 locations with thickish bush at Ruaha NP (19/6).
310 Silverbird: 4 single birds, Western Corridor (7/7), and 1 on drive, Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP.
311 White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher: common at lodge, where seen daily, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9-11/7).
312 African Dusky Flycatcher: 2 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
313 Swamp Flycatcher: 3 in grounds of hotel in Mwanza and 3 more near adjacent lake edge (6-7/7).
314 Ashy Flycatcher: pair seen well at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6).
315 Black and White Shrike (Vanga-) Flycatcher: 1 in savannah near river, Kisampa (26/6).
316 Forest Batis: 2 pairs in Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
317 Chin-spot Batis: pair in Acacia in front of room, at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 2 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7); 1 female in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains (14/7).
317a Black-throated Wattle-eye: heard only in forest on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
318 Little Yellow Flycatcher: 1 at Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
319 African Paradise Flycatcher: 1 white morph male (all other males seen for trip were rufous coloured) in Acacia savannah at Kisampa (26/6); common on Pemba, with 2 on Misali Island (28/6), 1 male in garden of lodge (29/6) and a pair in Ngezi Forest (30/6); common (several seen) in low coral-rag forest and mangroves, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7); 1 female at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
320 Arrow-marked Babbler: group upstream from lodge (18/6) and near lodge (20/6), Ruaha NP; small flock common at lodge where tame near restaurant, Serengeti NP (7-8/7); flock in scrub near room, Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
321 Black-lored Babbler: group near lodge, Ruaha NP (18/6); 3 near road not far from lodge, Seronera (7/7) and also near Seronera River (8/7).
322 Northern Pied Babbler: several groups in Mikumi NP most days, including around camp (21-24/6).
333 Rufous Chatterer: 3 near Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7); flock of 5 in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
324 Plain-backed Sunbird: 1 in undergrowth, Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
325 Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird: singles and pairs seen near lodge, especially near our room, Ruaha NP (18, 20-21/6); 1 male at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7), 1 male in Acacia woodland, Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
326 Collared Sunbird: 2 in botanic gardens, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 1 at base of Sanje Falls Trail, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/6); 1 near Oxbow Lake (25/6) and in riverine forest on Wami River (26/6) at Kisampa; 2 at Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6); several at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7); 1 male on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
327 Olive Sunbird: 1 at camp, Mikumi NP (24/6); 1 at Kisampa in bush near camp (24/6) and in riverine forest near Wami River (26/6); 1 in garden of lodge, Chake (28/6) and 1 in Ngezi Forest (30/6); seen in both low coral-rag forest and taller coastal Red Mahogany forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
328 Amethyst Sunbird: 1 Ruaha NP (19/6); 1 male at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7) and 1 male in Lake Manyara NP (12/7); 1 male at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
329 Scarlet-chested Sunbird: 1 male in grounds of hotel, Mwanza (6-7/7); 1 male at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7) and 1 male at Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
330 Variable Sunbird: race falkensteini seen around Ruaha River Lodge (18, 20-21/6) also at picnic site, confluence of Mwagusi and Great Ruaha Rivers (20/6); pair, race igneiventris (? – more whitish on breast with orange-ish wash) at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
331 Eastern Double-collared Sunbird: singles and pairs daily at lodge (9-11/7) and on walk near lodge (10/7), Ngorongoro Crater.
332 Marico Sunbird: several seen around the lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7-8/7).
333 Red-chested Sunbird: several at hotel in Mwanza (6-7/7) but also 1 near cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel (6/7).
334 Purple-banded Sunbird: pair in botanic gardens, Dar es Salaam (18/6); 1male in bush near camp, Kisampa (24/6); 2 in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
335 Pemba Sunbird: common, seen as singles to 3s around lodge in Chake daily (27/6-1/7) but also in rural land on walk from Chake to Vitongoji (29/6), common on Misali Island (28/6), 2 in Ngezi Forest and 2 at Makongale Lagoon (30/6). Most beautiful of all the sunbirds I saw.
336 Tacazze Sunbird: singles and pairs seen daily at lodge, crater rim (9-11/7) and on walk near lodge (10/11), Ngorongoro CA.
337 Beautiful Sunbird: single male birds in non-breeding plumage seen at Ruaha River Lodge (18/6, 21/6); 1 in wooded grassland, Mikumi NP (24/6); single non-br males seen around lodge, Seronera (7-8/7) near Seronera River (8/7) and also at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
338 Malachite Sunbird: several males in cultivation and grassland, Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7).
339 Bronze Sunbird: 1 immature male at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (10/7); 1 adult male at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
340 Golden-winged Sunbird: pair near lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
341 Abyssinian (White-breasted) White-eye: small flocks in garden at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7, 15/7).
342 Montane (Broad-ringed) White-eye: flocks of race mbuluensis seen at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater (9-11/7); several flocks of race eurycricotus in forest between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
343 African Yellow White-eye: flocks (to c. 20) at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
344 Pemba White-eye: 1 on Misali Island (28/6) and 1 seen very well in Ngezi Forest (30/6), Pemba.
345 African Golden Oriole: 1 in riverine forest on Wami River (25/6).
346 (Eastern/African-) Black-headed Oriole: 1 at Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7); 1 in fig near rubbish dump, Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); 1 in plantation, Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7); 1 at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
347 Green-headed Oriole: 1 immature bird in canopy, Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
348 Grey-backed Fiscal: many, singles to small groups, Western Corridor (7/7), on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) and Seronera River (8/7) and on drive to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
349 Long-tailed Fiscal: singles to small groups common in Mikumi NP, recorded daily at many sites within park including around camp (21-24/6); several in Lake Manyara NP (12/7); seen roadside on drive from Lake Manyara to Arusha (13/7); 1 at Kilimanjaro airport (15/7).
350 Taita Fiscal: 1 at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7); several in dry country in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
351 Common Fiscal: 1 seen on drive to Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7); common at lodge, where seen daily (9-11/7), and also in crater itself (10/11) Ngorongoro CA; seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); seen roadside on drive from Lake Manyara to Arusha (13/7);
352 Magpie Shrike: groups seen in Ruaha NP daily (18-21/6); groups in Western Corridor (7/7), and daily on game drives in Seronera area (7-9/7), Serengeti NP.
353 Northern White-crowned Shrike: seen daily throughout Ruaha NP, including around lodge (18-21/6); singles to small flocks seen daily in Serengeti, including on drive in Western Corridor (7/7), and in the Seronera area on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7), to Seronera River area (8/7), at lodge (8/7) and on drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7); 2 at Lake Manyara NP (11/7).
354 Brubru: 1 female at Ruaha NP, downstream from lodge (19/6).
355 Black-backed Puffback: 1 near lodge on 19/6, pair at picnic area, junction of Great Ruaha and Mwagusi Rivers (20/6); 1 h in thick bush (24/6) and 1 seen on edge of same near tent (27/6) at Kisampa; 1 in scrub near airstrip, Sadani NP (26/6); heard but remained unseen in coastal Red Mahogany forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); single birds at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
356 Brown-crowned Tchagra: single birds seen in Ruaha NP at various sites including at lodge (19-20/6); 2 at Kisampa (25/6); 1 in Western Corridor (7/7) Serengeti NP; seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (14/7); 1 at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
357 Black-crowned Tchagra: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6); 1 at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7).
358 Tropical Boubou: heard at Sanje Falls trail, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/1); common at and near lodge where seen daily, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9-11/7); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
359 Slate-coloured Boubou: seen daily in Ruaha both at lodge and on drives (18-21/6); 1 seen in thick shrubby growth at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (8/7); 1 in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
360 Orange-breasted (Sulphur-breasted) Bush-Shrike: 1 at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6); 1 in Acacia savannah at Kisampa (26/6); single birds seen at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (14/7).
361 White Helmet Shrike: parties seen on drive in Ruaha NP (19/6) and at Ruaha River Lodge (20/6); 1 seen from highway driving through Mikumi NP (23/6); 5 birds, in mixed feeding assemblages, near tent at Kisampa (25/6, 27/6).
362 Retz’s Helmet Shrike: flock of 10+ at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (13/7).
363 Chestnut-fronted Helmet Shrike: at least 10 in mixed feeding flock near tent, Kisampa (27/6).
364 Square-tailed Drongo: 1 in forest on Sanje Falls track, Udzungwa Mountains NP (23/1); 1 in canopy, Zaraninge Forest, Sadani NP (26/6).
365 Fork-tailed Drongo: single birds seen throughout Ruaha NP (18-20/6); 1 at Mikumi NP (21/6); 1 on outskirts of Zanzibar Town (3/7); singles seen in Western Corridor (7/7), on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) and Seronera River, and at lodge, Seronera (8/7), Serengeti NP; 1 at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (14-15/7); 1 at Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
366 *House Crow: most common bird around Dar es Salaam, recorded there on 17-18/6; small numbers around Chake, Pemba (27/6, 28/6); very common around Stone Town, Zanzibar most days but also present at Jozani Chwaka NP (3/7).
367 Pied Crow: Scattered throughout Tanzania, but extinct on Zanzibar due to competition with introduced House Crow. Recorded at Dar es Salaam airport (17/6, 18/6) in flocks but not present near town centre; common in Pemba around Chake and surrounding district, recorded throughout stay there, also 2 on Misali Island (28/6); Mwanza (6/7); seen from road from Mwanza to Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); at Lake Manyara Lodge (12/7).
368 Cape Crow (Cape Rook): flock of c. 10, adults and immatures, seen in montane grassland at c. 2000m, west of Ngorongoro Crater, (c. 12km before lodge on crater rim).
369 White-necked Raven: 2 seen flying over lodge, NgorongoroCrater (9/11); 1 at Lake Manyara lodge(12/7).
370 Waller’s Starling: small flock flying over Momela Gate, and several flocks and scattered individuals feeding in trees between Kilimanjaro view and Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
371 Red-winged Starling: 2 in grounds of hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 2’s and 3’s at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7), with large flocks lying over in late afternoon (12/7); at least 1 feeding in mixed flock with Waller Starling in fruiting tree, on road between Kilimanjaro view point and Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
372 Black-bellied Starling: flock of 20 flying over near camp (24/6), flock of c. 30 on Wami River (25/6) and same in trees near airstrip (27/6) at Kisampa; 2 on Misali Island (28/6) and 3 in rural land near Vitongoji (29/6), Pemba.
373 Greater Blue-eared Starling: small numbers in Mikumi NP (21-22/6); small flock of c. 6 in Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP.
374 Rüppell’s Starling: in Serengeti NP at Ndabaka Gate, common in Western Corridor (7/7), seen at lodge, Seronera (7-8/7), seen on game drive to Hippo Pool (7/7) and on drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7).
375 Superb Starling: in Ruaha NP, flocks seen on drive from Msembe airstrip and on game drives downstream from lodge (18-21/6); in Mikumi NP at various locations including near camp (21-22/6); common in Western Corridor (7/7), seen daily on all game drives (7-8/7), at lodge where tame (7-9/7) on drive to, and at, Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; several at Picnic Area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); flocks in dry country in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7); 2 at Kilimanjaro Airport (15/7).
376 Hildebrandt’s Starling: moderately common (though less numerous than Superb Starling) in Western Corridor (7/7), few at lodge, Seronera (8/7) and flocks on Seronera River drive (8/7) and at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; seen roadside on drive from Lake Manyara to Arusha (13/7); flocks in dry country in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
377 Fischer’s Starling: 1 in dry savannah in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
378 Ashy Starling: seen daily in Ruaha NP, including at lodge where tame near restaurant (18-21/6).
379 Abbott’s Starling: flock near Kilimanjaro view point on Mt Meru, with diagnostic view of 1 male, 1 pair seen very well in forest further down road towards Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
380 Wattled Starling: 1 drinking at tap, Naabi hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 2 flocks of c. 20 in Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 3 at Kilimanjaro airport (15/7).
381 Yellow-billed Oxpecker: flock at Ruaha NP (19/6); flock near Seronera River, Serengeti NP (8/7).
382 Red-billed Oxpecker: flocks at Ruaha NP (19/6); 7 at Mikumi NP (22/6); 15 on backs of Hippos in water, Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6); flock of c. 10 at Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
383 *House Sparrow: Common in Dar es Salaam, recorded near hotel and at airport (17-18/6); at Foxes Safari Camp, Mikumi NP, 1 (22/6) 4(24/6); 1 male at Karume Airport, Pemba (1/7); common around Stone Town, Zanzibar, recorded throughout stay there; Oldupai Gorge (9/7); around Lake Manyara Lodge (12/7); several at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7).
384 Kenya Rufous Sparrow: flock near lodge daily, Seronera (7-9/7) and also at Hippo Pool (7/7), Serengeti NP.
385 Grey-headed Sparrow: roadside in Kidatu area (23/6); flock at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7); flock in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
386 Swahili Sparrow: flocks daily at various sites in Ruaha NP, including at lodge (18-21/6); flock at lodge, Seronera and also at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7); flock at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7).
387 Southern Grey-headed Sparrow: small numbers in seen near lodge and nearby in Chake, also in countryside between Chake and Vitongoji Beach, Pemba (29/6).
388 Yellow-spotted Petronia: 2 individuals in dry Acacia savannah, in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
389 Red-billed Buffalo Weaver: flocks (to c. 30) seen on drives throughout Ruaha NP (18-21/6); flock in Mikumi NP (21/6); from a few birds to large flocks in Western Corridor (7/7), flock of c. 20 at lodge, Seronera, and also seen on drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
390 White-headed Buffalo Weaver: small groups seen daily throughout Ruaha NP, including around lodge (18-21/6); small numbers in Western Corridor (7/7), and on drive out to Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP; several at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7); seen roadside on drive from Lake Manyara to Arusha (13/7).
391 Speckle-fronted Weaver: flocks seen at various locations in Ruaha NP daily, including at Lodge (18-21/6); flocks seen on drive to Seronera River (8/7) and at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7), Serengeti NP.
392 White-browed Sparrow Weaver: flocks seen in Mikumi NP in at several sites (21-22/6).
393 Rufous-tailed Weaver: small flocks seen towards eastern end of Western Corridor, on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7), and at Naabi Hill Gate where tame (9/7), Serengeti NP; several at Picnic Area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7), where very tame.
394 Grey-capped Social Weaver: flocks throughout Ruaha NP daily, including at lodge (18-21/6); flocks in Western Corridor (7/7) and on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) and Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; flock in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
395 Baglafecht Weaver: pairs to small flocks seen daily at lodge, crater rim (9-11/7) and also in Acacia forest in Ngorongoro Crater (10/11), Ngorongoro CA; pairs seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
396 Black-necked Weaver: pair at Ruaha River Lodge (21/6).
397 Spectacled Weaver: 1 female at Kigongoni Lodge, Arusha (14/7).
398 Yellow (African Golden-) Weaver: 1 on Wami River, Kisampa (25/6); 2 on Wami River, Sadani NP (26/6); 1 in low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
399 Holub’s Golden Weaver: 3 in reeds at edge of lake, SE of hotel at Mwanza (6/7); singles to pairs seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7).
400 Lesser Masked Weaver: flock resident in vicinity of lodge (and especially near restaurant), Seronera, Serengeti NP (7-8/7). Quite tame at this site, with diagnostic pale eyes seen well even though in non-br plumage. Several other possible records but couldn’t get close enough views to be certain of whether this sp. or another (e.g.Vitellene).
401 Vitellene Masked Weaver: pairs at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7) and at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7), where very tame (eating off food scraps on tables).
402 Village Weaver: 10 birds including 3 males in breeding plumage in vicinity of nests, driveway of hotel, Dar es Salaam (18/6); flock at rubbish dump, Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
403 Black-headed (Yellow-backed) Weaver: 1 in reeds at edge of lake, SE of hotel at Mwanza (6/7).
403a Dark-backed (Forest) Weaver: heard but remained unseen in coastal Red Mahogany forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7).
404 Chestnut Weaver: 2 in non-br plumage in Acacia, near lodge on drive out to Hippo Pool, Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7/7).
405 Red-headed Weaver: 1 male seen on rock outcrop across from museum, at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7).
406 Red-billed Quelea: flock of c. 30 in long grass near stream, Mikumi NP (22/6); flock of c. 30 at Picnic Area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
407 Black Bishop: several in mixed flock (with smaller birds) in partial non-br plumage but mostly black with reddish-orange back, in flight, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); 1 male non-br seen well (very dark) in Lake Manyara NP (12/7) but others nearby not seen well enough may have been this sp also.
408 Black-winged Bishop: several in roadside grass and sugar cane near Kilombero Sugar fields, N of Kidatu (23/6); common in Pemba - 1 flew over lodge at Chake, (27/6), 8 in cultivated areas near Vitongoji, (29/6), 2 in rice fields seen from car in northern Pemba (30/6 and 1 at Karume Airport, near Chake (1/7).
409 Yellow Bishop: flocks at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
410 Fan-tailed Widowbird: flock of c. 20 at Picnic Area, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7).
411 Jackson’s Widowbird: large flock (c. 40) in grassland on Oldeani, Ngorongoro CA (10/7).
412 Grosbeak Weaver: small flock in Acacia in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
413 Green-winged Pytilia: small numbers seen daily at various locations within Ruaha NP, including near lodge (18-21/6); seen at several sites in Mikumi NP (21-22/6); small flock in Western Corridor (7/7), Serengeti NP; small flocks seen at lodge, Seronera (8/7) and on game drives to Hippo Pool (7/7) and Seronera River (8/7), Serengeti NP; several in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
414 Orange-winged Pytilia: 5 (25/6) and 4(27/6) birds in savannah/woodland edge near tent at Kisampa.
415 Abyssinian Crimsonwing: 2 pairs in thick growth, on road between Kilimanjaro view point an Momela Gate, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
416 Red-throated (Peters’) Twinspot: 1 in shrubs on edge of low coral-rag forest, Jozani Chwaka NP, Zanzibar (3/7); pair in thick undergrowth at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9/7).
417 Red-billed Firefinch: 3 at Mikumi NP (22/6); at hotel, and 3 at cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); small flock, Seronera River game drive, Serengeti NP (8/7); flocks seen daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7), seen very well drinking at pool; flock in Acacia savannah in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
418 African Firefinch: 2 in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
419 Jameson’s Firefinch: small flock seen well at Ruaha River Lodge (19/6, 20/6).
420 Crimson-rumped Waxbill: small flock in grass in Acacia forest, Ngorongoro Crater (10/7); flock drinking at pool, Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
421 Common Waxbill: flock in long grass at Kisampa (24/6, 25/6); flock in Acacia woodland in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
422 Black-faced Waxbill: 4 at Ruaha River Lodge near restaurant (19/6); 5 at Naabi Hill Gate, Serengeti NP (9/7); 2 in low bushes, Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
423 Red-cheeked Cordonbleu: 2 in botanic gardens, Dar es Salaam (18/6); small numbers seen daily in Ruaha NP at various sites including at lodge (18-21/6); seen daily in Mikumi NP (21-24/6); at hotel, and 4 at cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); small flocks common and seen daily on game drives in Seronera area, Serengeti NP (7-9/7); flocks present daily at Lake Manyara lodge (11-12/7); flocks seen in Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
424 Blue-capped Cordonbleu: at least 6 mixed with much larger group of Red-cheeked Cordonbleus at Seronera River, feeding on ground and perched in shrubs (8/7), 1 male of this sp. again mixed with RCBC’s same site (9/7); 1 male in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (11/7).
425 Purple Grenadier: 5 at cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); 3 on drive to Hippo Pool (7/7) and 1 on Seronera River drive (8/7), Serengeti NP.
426 Zebra Waxbill: 1 in cultivation c. 30km S of Serengeti Gate on road from Mwanza, seen well - others nearby possibly this sp but too far to tell, (7/7).
427 African Silverbill: 5 seen on drive in Seronera River area, Serengeti NP (8/7); flock drinking at edge of pool at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
428 Grey-headed Silverbill: 6 at birdbath at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7/7).
429 Bronze Mannikin: small flocks on golf course and also in botanic gardens, Dar es Salaam (18/6); small flocks near lodge at Chake (28-29/6), also in rural land between Chake and Vitongoji Beach (29/6) and near Makongale Lagoon (30/6), Pemba; flock at cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); flock drinking at edge of pool at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
430 Rufous-backed Mannikin: 2 in shrubby growth, Momela Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
431 *Java Sparrow: common at lodge in Chake, Pemba, nesting in eaves of building, seen everyday there (27/6-1/7).
432 Cut-throat Finch: 2 at Msembe near airstrip, Ruaha NP (18/6); pair at Ruaha River Lodge (20/6); 1 male at lodge, Seronera, Serengeti NP (7/7).
433 Village Indigobird: small flock with male seen well at Mikumi NP (21-22/6); flock of 4 with 1 male in partial non-breeding plumage, on soccer field near rubbish dump, Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
434 Pin-tailed Whydah: single male in breeding plumage at Mikumi NP (22/6).
435 Eastern Paradise Whydah: 2 males seen well wooded grassland, Mikumi NP (22/6).
435a Yellow-crowned Canary: heard only (in dense fog) at Kilimanjaro view point, Mt Meru, Arusha NP (14/7).
436 Kenyan Yellow-rumped Seedeater: large flock (c. 40 birds) across river from lodge, Ruaha NP (18/6); 10 at cemetery, further along lake shore SE from hotel, Mwanza (6/7); small flock at Lake Manyara NP (12/7).
437 White-bellied Canary: 2 near airstrip, Kisampa (27/6); pair in Acacia tree, roadside c. 15km before Ndabaka Gate (Serengeti) (7/7); single birds seen on Hippo Pool drive near lodge, Seronera (7/7), on Seronera River drive (8/7) and at Naabi Hill Gate (9/7); small flock at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7).
438 Southern Grosbeak Canary: 1 male singing from roof of building, at Oldupai Gorge, Ngorongoro CA (9/7); several in dry Acacia savannah (quite common in one area), in vicinity of Lark Plains, N of Mt Meru (14/7).
439 Streaky Seedeater: flocks seen daily at and near lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (9-11/7), also in grassland and cultivation on Oldeani, (10/7), Ngorongoro CA; 2 at Ngongongare Gate, Arusha NP (14/7).
440 Thick-billed Seedeater: 1 at lodge, Ngorongoro Crater rim (10/7).
441 Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting: 2 immatures in scrub at Lake Manyara lodge (12/7).
442 Golden-breasted (African Golden) Bunting: 1 near tent, Kisampa (27/6).
Mammals
Zanzibar Red Colobus
Angola Pied Colobus
Guereza Colobus
Olive Baboon
Yellow Baboon
Vervet Monkey
Blue Monkey
Greater Galago
Pemba Flying Fox
Yellow-winged Bat
Scrub Hare
Red-bellied Coast Squirrel
Ochre Bush Squirrel
Zanj Sun Squirrel
Four-striped Grass Mouse
Golden (Common) Jackal
Black-backed Jackal
Dwarf Mongoose
Banded Mongoose
Spotted Hyena
Leopard
Cheetah
Lion
Zanj Elephant Shrew
Yellow-spotted Rock Hyrax
African Elephant
Common Zebra
Hippopotamus
Warthog
Giraffe
African Buffalo
Bushbuck
Greater Kudu
Harvey’s Duiker
Kirk’s Dikdik
Bohor Reedbuck
Waterbuck
Thompson’s Gazelle
Grant’s Gazelle
Impala
Topi
Hartebeest
Blue Wildebeest