Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Short-legged Ground-Roller |
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Overview
This tour was organised by Birding Africa and led by Birding Africa Tour Leader Callan Cohen.
21-day tour (16-day tour and 5-day Masoala extension) from 4th to 25th November 2006.
Wide range of habitats covered, from eastern rainforests, dry western forests and the bizarre spiny forests of the south-west.
Almost complete clean sweep of all endemics and near-endemics, including every single member of each endemic family, such as all vangas, 5 Ground-Rollers, 4 asities, etc.
192 bird species recorded.
Incredible experiences with lemurs of 26 species including Indri and Red Ruffed Lemur.
Detailed Tour Report
Day 1 – 4 November 2006
This tour started in the early morning with a early flight arrival and after breakfast at a nearby restaurant we proceeded to a wetland for some introductory Madagascar birding. On arrival we saw some widespread species relatively quickly; both Madagascar Lesser Cuckoo and Madagascar Kingfisher perched in the open for us. The open water held African Pygmy Goose, Hottentot Teal, while Madagascar Silverbills (Mannikins), Madagascar Swamp Warbler, and a confiding Baillon’s Crake were seen along the reedy edges of the waterbody. Afterwards we went to lunch, before heading again in the afternoon to Lac Alarobia. This large park, composed of a number of adjoining lakes and woodland, has been protected for decades and lies on the edge of the city. It hosts numerous waterbirds which are otherwise persecuted and is an excellent place to get to grips with herons especially. In fact it was here we first saw Madagascar Pond Heron, a declining species. Among the large numbers of common Squacco Heron, Black Heron, Dimorphic Egret, Great Egret, and Cattle Egret. Ducks included Comb Duck, Fulvous Duck among the common White-faced Whistling Duck and Red-billed Teal. A local rarity was present in the form of an African Openbill. One of the highlights was a confiding White-throated Rail that showed well at the edge of a reed bed in the late afternoon that capped the day’s birding.
Day 2 – 5 November 2006
The second day started with a morning flight to Mahajunga on the north west coast. We then embarked on a boat trip to the Betsiboka Delta in search of two species of rare waterbird. Madagascar’s wetland birds have suffered tremendously from habitat degradation and destruction and the two species for which we were searching have populations little in excess of a thousand birds each. We specially chartered a large motorboat to head deep into the delta, timing our visit to coincide with the dropping of the tide and the expected feeding of these species on the edge of the mangrove swamps. We were in luck and before long we saw a total of 35 Bernier’s Teal and a single Madagascar White Ibis. Other waders included Terek Sandpiper, Greenshank, Curlew Sandpiper, Whimbrel and Common Sandpiper. Many Dimorphic Egret were present, mostly dark phase individuals, and other goodies were Lesser Flamingo and Lesser Crested Tern.
We returned to Mahajunga for lunch before driving to Ampijoroa forest station of Ankarafantsika National Park, where we birded in the late afternoon. Here we saw our first vanga, the attractive Chabert’s Vanga with its neon blue eye wattle, and other birds included Madagascar Bee-eater, Crested Drongo on the nest, Mascarene Martin and Broad-billed Rollers.
Day 3 – 6 November 2006
After some early pre-walk coffee we headed out into the forest to catch the cool of the early part of the day. Our pre breakfast walk was a dazzling introduction to Madagascar woodland birding and we saw no less than 6 species of vanga in just two hours. The most spectacular was arguably Sickle-billed Vanga, a unique bird with its large downcurved bill, social habits and bizarre haunting calls. We also saw the brightly coloured Blue Vanga, White-headed, Rufous at the nest and the shrike-like Hook-billed Vanga. We were also introduced to another of Madagascar’s endemic families, the Mesites, with a small group of White-breasted Mesites scuttling through the undergrowth almost at our feet. However, the star bird of the walk must have been another representative of one of Madagascar’s endemic bird families, the Schlegel’s Asity, a bright yellow bird with a neon eye wattle with both bright blue and green elements. Also present were Cockerels and Crested Couas, another sub-family endemic to Madagascar, Madagascar Hoopoe was also seen, a species that looks superficially like regular hoopoes, but has a strange growling call.
We returned for a well-earned breakfast and not to be outdone yet another representative of Madagascar’s endemic bird families displayed above us; the Madagascar Cuckoo Roller. These characteristic and evocative whistles from the birds wheeling display flight were to become a familiar call in the forest (although getting a view of the displaying birds was not always that easy). Breakfast was a fantastic spread of fresh fruit, pancakes, juice and coffee, one of the finest we were to experience in Madagascar. Also at breakfast, Collared Iguanas, one of the ancient reptile links with South America, scuttled up the trunks of adjacent trees.
Our post-breakfast walk, although getting rather warm, was productive. Van Dam’s Vanga was our main target and we also saw Madagascar Crested Ibis on the nest and Red-capped Couas stalking on the path. Owing to the heat we returned for a relaxed lunch and rest before heading out for a late afternoon boat trip on the nearby lake Ravelobe. Our main target here was one of the rarest raptors in the world, Madagascar Fish Eagle and we were lucky to have excellent views of three. We also saw Madagascar Jacana and Humblot’s Heron very well, as well as Madagascar Kingfisher (very close), Allen’s Gallinule (with its bright blue frontal shield) and African Darter. A number of large Nile Crocodile was also present.
At sunset we went on a night-walk, which turned out, to be a major highlight, not only did we saw all 8 species of lemur possible, but we also saw a giant Oustalet’s Chameleon, one of the world’s largest chameleons. Just before dark we were entertained by Coquerel’s Sifakas, a large species of lemur with a mixed white and rufous fur. These large lemurs with their curious human-like faces, and family antics, were a firm favourite. Common Brown Lemur and Mongoose Lemur are two closely related lemurs that were also seen at dusk but it was when we headed into the forests once it was completely dark that we began to see some of the smaller lemurs. These included Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur, which had recently come out of hibernation (as the name suggests they store their energy reserves in their tail), Grey Mouse Lemur and the recently described Golden Brown Mouse Lemur. Milne-Edward’s Sportive Lemurs attracted attention with their loud screeches while the tranquil Western Woolly Lemurs merely sat sedately and munched leaves.
Day 4 – 7 November 2006
Our early morning walk was very successful with the highlight being a closely perched Banded Kestrel (it was even worth running back to fetch Trevor for this one!). We also saw France’s Sparrowhawk and a Common Tenrec. On our drive back towards Mahajunga we headed past a large lake where we added Little Grebe to our list, and watched Black Egrets hunting using their characteristic shading posture (during which the birds hold their wings forward to create a patch of shade in front of them thereby attracting small fish).
We then popped in at an hotel for a swim and lunch while we waited for the late afternoon flight to Tana.
Day 5 – 8 November 2006
After breakfast we flew down to Tulear on the south west coast, and we then drove up the coast to the small town of Ifaty, entering our first spiny forest vegetation en route. This is a very picturesque coastline with aquamarine waters and dotted with small Vezo fishing villages. We made a brief stop for some waterbirds, included Black-winged Stilt, and added Sub-desert Brush Warbler.
Close to our hotel we searched for the rare and localised Madagascar Plover. Some of us walked a huge loop in the heat before finally having success: only to find out when we returned to the car that there had been a pair at the bus all along! There were also Kittlitz’s, Three-banded and Common Ringed Plovers nearby.
After lunch we had a short rest before heading on a late afternoon trip into the spiny forest. Our main targets here were two highly localised species, both members of Madagascar endemic families. With our team of helpers, essential in this dense spiny vegetation where the birds are at low density, we had phenomenal success with very close views of both Long-tailed Ground Roller and Sub-desert Mesite.
At dusk we went on a short night-walk encountering Grey-brown Mouse Lemur, a species that is seldom seen.
Day 6 – 9 November 2006
We spent the early morning in the spiny forest searching for the remaining endemics. It was very successful and we saw both Running and Green-capped Couas, Archbold’s Newtonia, and the Thamnornis Warbler. Vangas were very much in evidence and we saw the localised Lafresnaye’s, White-headed, Sickle-billed, Chabert’s and Red-tailed. We also encountered Striped-throated Jery, Madagascar Turtle Dove, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Hoopoe, Ashy Cuckooshrike, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher and Sakalava Weaver. Another highlight was a pair of Madagascar Harrier Hawk, with their faces flush pink with excitement.
After lunch and a rest we returned in the afternoon where we watched Madagascar Sparrowhawks at the nest, the most exciting was when the male and female made a food pass allowing excellent views of both birds. Three-eyed Lizards were common.
Day 7 – 10 November 2006
Another early start took us to some scrub habitat near Tulear where we were to look for two highly localised endemics. However, it wasn’t long before we used calls to locate both Verreaux’s Coua and an exceptionally close pair of Red-shouldered Vanga; this species was only described as recently as 1996. We also saw another Green-capped Coua. We tried our spot for Madagascar Sandgrouse, but it was now a bit too late in the day and we headed back for a late brunch which was excellent with mini croissants and well earned coffee.
That afternoon we headed to the nearby Arboretum where we were introduced to the fascinating botany of the area and had fantastic views of the Madagascar Buttonquail.
Day 8 – 11 November 2006
With all the other birds in the bag we made an early morning start for the sandgrouse and had fantastic success as the birds flew in just over our heads. We then headed to the harbour as we were heading south by boat to the island of Nosy Ve, however, the journey to reach the boat from the harbour was quite the adventure in itself: it involved climbing onto ox-carts and being dragged through the muddy harbour all the way to the waiting boats.
Our first stop was the village Anakao where we found the locally endemic Littoral Rockthrush, before having breakfast overlooking the beach. We then made the short boat trip across to the island of Nosy Ve where we were treated to the spectacle of the Red-billed Tropicbird breeding colony. It was amazing to have these spectacular birds hovering so close above us. Some of us then did some snorkelling but it wasn’t long before Ben spotted a Sooty Gull and we all rushed along to check the large roost of Lesser-Crested and Swift Terns before having excellent views of this large brown gull, the second record for Madagascar. Also interesting on the island of Nosy Ve were Madagascar Cisticolas foraging along the seashore and a selection of waders including White-fronted Plover, and Humblot’s Heron.
We then returned to Tulear, where we saw Saunder’s Tern, Greater Sand Plover and Bar-tailed Godwit on nearby mudflats. Some inland slat pans hosted an exciting Mongolian Sandplover and we saw yet another Humblot’s Heron here as well as White-throated Rail and Greater Painted Snipe.
Day 9 – 12 November 2006
This morning we head for Zombitse Forest, a unique patch of western deciduous forest, which encompasses almost the entire world-range of Appert’s Tetraka. As we arrived a male France’s Sparrowhawk was spotted in a tree and we had excellent scope trees. Entering the forest it wasn’t long before we located a pair of Appert’s Tetraka at their nest. This rare bird is one of the most striking of the Tetrakas, with its peachy underparts. We also saw many Long-billed Greenbuls, the bill of the male looking impossibly long and excellent views of Coquerel’s Coua, Madagascar Cuckoo Rollers displaying and another Madagascar Crested Ibis on the nest. We also saw Hubbard’s Sportive Lemur at its roosting hole and a large Oustalet’s Chameleon. One of the main highlights eluded us until the very end of the walk, a fantastic Giant Coua that climbed up into a tree above our heads.
After this fantastic morning walk we then went to Relais de la Reine, a luxurious hotel set among the dramatic runeiform standstone outcrops on the edge of Isalo National Park. After lunch, we had a short rest interrupted by the presence of Benson’s Rock Thrush among our chalets. Our late afternoon walk yielded a Purple Heron on a small lake and our major highlight target bird: a group of five Madagascar Partridge.
After a gourmet meal in the restaurant we departed for a short night walk and were delighted with a White-browed Owl in our spotlight.
Day 10 – 13 November 2006
Today we drove north, encountering a striking adult Madagascar Harrier in the grasslands on our route. This pied bird with black, white and silver in its plumage was a major highlight as it can be very elusive. We continued on to Anja Reserve, a community-run initiative that protects a small patch of habitat where Ring-tailed Lemurs occur. A major highlight of the trip was spending an hour watching a family group of them an arm’s reach away and watching their behaviour of the female dominated group as many of the mothers had babies. We had a picnic lunch here before driving on to Ranomafana National Park where we arrived in the evening.
Day 11 – 14 November 2006
Today started with a bang! A Meller’s Duck flew past us at close range just as we departed from the bus to begin our birding, taking us all by surprise. This increasingly rare duck is heading fast towards extinction with many of the stake-out sites no longer proving reliable. In high spirits we entered the forest. The first bird party we encountered contained the scarce Pollen’s Vanga, another highlight. We then went on to see Red-fronted Coua and very close views, with some effort, of a Brown Mesite.
We then continued to a spot for Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity, where we had spectacular success with this difficult and endangered species, not only seeing the bird but also finding a nest. This was our third asity of the day having seen both Velvet and Common Sunbird Asity en route, and with the Schlegel’s that we’d seen earlier, we now had a clean sweep of all the Asitys! Not to be outdone a Rufous-headed Ground-Roller called nearby and after some effort we all managed to see this bird, as well as a Madagascar Flufftail that also showed rather well. Back on the path a female Madagascar Sparrowhawk flew past us and perched on a tree, and other highlights included Dark Newtonia, Tylas Vanga, our first Blue Couas and Madagascar Blue Pigeons, Nelicourvi Weaver and on the road at the end, Forest Rock Thrush. What a fantastic introduction to the eastern rainforest birding!
That evening on our night walk we were treated to point blank views of Brown-mouse Lemur and the now famous Malagasy Striped Civie at the nocturne point.
Day 12 – 15 November 2006
This morning we opted for a walk at medium altitude parts of Ranomafana National Park, and had a walk packed with many highlights including Pitta-like Ground Roller, Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, another Velvet Asity, Wedge-tail Jery on the nest, Rand’s Warbler, White-throated Oxylabes, Ward’s Flycatcher and at the very end an eye to eye view with a Henst’s Goshawk.
That afternoon we went to a nearby marsh where we flushed our target bird, Madagascar Snipe, a species that is becoming ever rarer as rice paddy cultivation uses up every last bit of remaining habitat. An unusual warbler, Grey Emutail, was seen in the surrounding scrub. Heading back into the forest we had absolutely phenomenal views of a pair of Pitta-like Ground Roller that refused to get off the ground in front of us!
Day 13 – 16 November 2006
Today provided us with a choice of options, the more focused birders headed back into the forest to search for Madagascar Yellowbrow, a species that we had only heard. Despite much trying and having them calling at close range in front of us, we were unable to see the species as the rain started to fall. We did however, see Grey-crowned Tetraka feeding young, Cryptic Warbler (only described in the late 90s) and Crosley’s Babbler.
The other option was to go on a lemur walk, led by Deirdre. That was highly successful with views of Eastern Woolly Lemur, a nest of Brown Mouse Lemurs, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur and the highlight of the walk, close views of both Golden and Greater Bamboo Lemur! The former was only discovered as recently as 1986 and the latter holds a dubious distinction of being one of the world’s rarest primates. Other mammals seen were confiding Eastern Red Forest Rats and the striking Ring-tailed Mongoose, a perfect combination of orange banded with black.
In the late morning we then drove northwards to end in the town of Antsirabe where we stayed in the grand colonial hotel, which even had baths!
Day 14 – 17 November 2006
Today was mainly a driving day and after breakfast we headed north to Tana and then eastwards to Perinet, another very important site for eastern rainforest specials. En route we stopped at a marsh where we had fantastic views of the normally skulking Madagascar Rail.
Day 15 – 18 November 2006
Today we headed to Mantadia National Park, only relatively recently opened to the public and one of the best places to get into primary rainforest in Madagascar. We initially tried for Short-legged Ground Roller, but it proved elusive and we were consoled with phenomenal views of Scaly Ground Roller calling on a branch. Along the road we added Madagascar Spinetail, Nuthatch Vanga, Forest Fody, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Starling, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Tylas Vanga, and a Rand’s Warbler and Striped-throated Jery calling to each other in the top of a big tree. We also encountered the superbly camouflaged Collared Nightjar roosting on the forest floor. We also heard the haunting call of Indri, Madagascar’s largest lemur, booming whale like through the mist, but the animals eluded sight. We did, however, see Diademed Sifaka, a major primate highlight.
After lunch we headed to the nearby Andasibe Reserve where our guide showed us a roosting Rainforest Scops-Owl and as dusk fell, a Long-eared Owl flew overhead, being chased by a Crested Drongo. On our night walk back to our accommodation we saw a diversity of chameleons, including Nose-horn Chameleon, and encountered Eastern Woolly Lemur and Goodman’s Mouse Lemur.
Day 16 – 19 November 2006
Today was one of those fantastic catch up days. We headed back to Mantadia and after some scrambling were rewarded with excellent views of Short-legged Ground Roller that had eluded us the day before. We now had a clean sweep of all 5 ground rollers! We also managed to see Indri, another major highlight. Excellent views were obtained of Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher breeding in a roadside bank.
Later that afternoon our guide spotted a Leaf-tailed Gecko roosting in a roadside bush, and we headed to the orchid garden where a number of species were in bloom. We didn’t however, improve our views of Long-eared Owl which is what we were hoping.
Day 17 – 20 November 2006
We spent the morning in Andisibe Reserve, being rewarding initially with fantastic close views of Red-breasted Coua. We also spent some time watching Indris, and had excellent refresher views of Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher and Spectacled Greenbul among others. On our drive back to Tana that afternoon, we saw Madagascar Pratincoles foraging over a large river.
Day 18 – 21 November 2006
Almost as if on cue, a Sooty Falcon, that had been discussed earlier at breakfast, was waiting for us at the airport, sitting on a terminal building as we arrived. Our goal today was to reach the remote Masaola peninsula, the largest unspoilt area of primary rainforest found in the north-east of the country.
It took three flights to get to Maroansetra, a consolation being a House Sparrow in Tamatave in transit, a curiously localised species in Madagascar. On arrival in Maroansetra we had a rather fun ride in a taxi from the airport before we took an hour long boat trip to get to our lodge. The boat trip to our lodge across the bay was spectacular, huge mountains cloaked in rainforest descended sharply into pristine beaches with aquamarine waters. Madagascan Pratincoles were breed on small rocky islands along the way. Our lodge, consisting of luxury African safari tents, was in an amazingly beautiful setting on the beach surrounded by patches of forest and coastal lagoons. We had a welcome lunch at the lodge followed by a short relaxing swim before heading into the office in the late afternoon. The walk was rather quiet with only a few relatively widespread rainforest species.
Day 19 – 22 November 2006
The major prize of the Masaola forests is undoubtably two species of highly localised vanga. Bernier’s is all black, but Helmet, one of the largest vangas has a rufous back and huge neon blue bill and must rate as one of the top birds in the world to see. After initially walking along the beach to access the best forest patch we began our search along the forest trails, checking bird parties along the way. Many eastern rainforest species that we had seen before were present, but our targets proved highly elusive. David got onto a male Bernier’s Vanga, but the rest of us only saw it as it flew off and were unable to locate it for the rest of the group. Deirdre, who had gone on a scouting walk looking for lemurs, encountered a Helmet Vanga, and we all returned to the spot later but the bird had disappeared. We will have to try again tomorrow.
The lemurs of the Masaola were excellent, and few can compare to Red Ruffed Lemur, a large dog-faced lemur with fantastic rufous fur. One particular individual was particularly confiding and we all got excellent views. We also had great views of a party of White-fronted Brown Lemurs.
Day 20 – 23 November 2006
The next morning we headed back into the forest with our target firmly in mind. For the first few hours the bird proved frustratingly elusive, we checked an old nest site with no results and we then headed back to the spot where Deirdre had seen the bird. A large shape moved in the mid-story and it wasn’t long before we had all got on to a male adult Helmet Vanga, much to everyone’s relief! We then encountered another, just a short distance further, and obtained excellent photos. Our only regret was that David had not been able to join us on this walk. His main consolation being that he gripped us all off with the Bernier’s!
Other highlight birds on the walk included Madagascar Wood Rail and Red-breasted Coua, but perhaps one of the most exciting findings was a small Brookesia Chameleon, superbly camouflaged in the leaf litter. We returned for lunch and a relaxed afternoon.
Day 21 – 24 November 2006
After breakfast we took the boat back across the bay towards civilisation. We then took our three flights in reverse arriving in Tana in the afternoon, just in time for some brief souvenir shopping.
Day 22 – 25 November 2006
The morning saw us heading off to Tana’s famous zoo which consists not only of the zoological gardens but also an excellent museum. One of the highlights was the recently constructed reversed day-night centre, where normally nocturnal Aye-Ayes can be seen during the day in especially darkened and sound-protected enclosure. It was amazing to watch these animals through the one-way glass going about their daily routines undisturbed by the visitors. Another highlight in the museum was seeing the skeleton of the extinct Elephant Bird and rather unnerving to think that this, the largest bird that ever lived, might have survived as recently as 300 years ago in Madagascar. The skeleton dwarfed the adjacent skeleton of an ostrich next to it. The skeletons of some of the extinct lemurs were also on display, including one the size of a gorilla.This rather sobering experience brought the trip to an end and we caught our flights in the late afternoon.
Birding Africa http://www.birdingafrica.com
192 bird species recorded.
Almost complete clean sweep of all endemics and near-endemics, including every single member of each endemic family, such as all vangas, 5 Ground-Rollers, 4 asities, etc.
Incredible experiences with lemurs of 26 species including Indri and Red Ruffed Lemur.
For a detailed list of species recorded, please contact www.birdingafrica.com at info@birdingafrica.com or +27 21 531 9148.
For illustrated Madagascar trip reports, please visit our Birding Africa Trip Reports