Introduction
Although April is not the prime time to go The Gambia, having never been before there were plenty of new species for us to see. We flew with Thomas Cook on a package tour staying at The Badala Park Hotel at Kotu Beach at £455. The weather was 95 degrees F throughout and even hotter at Tenbada we were told. This is at the cheaper end of the market with very basic rooms with limited facilities. The pool area, bar and restaurant were fine with excellent service. We took Malarone to protect against Malaria, but we really saw very few mosquitoes at this end of the dry season.
We used Ward’s book for site details and Barlow’s for identification and numerous trip reports many of which are now out of date. For example to see Finfoot, White-backed Night Heron and Standard-winged Nightjar a trip to Tenbada is needed as these birds are no longer to be found in the coastal stretch.
Exchange rates were 34 Dalasi in the UK. 36 in the hotel and 38 at the banks in Gambia. You must inform your bank that you are holidaying in The Gambia otherwise your VISA card will be blocked if you try to use it.
Guides
We wanted to try and avoid the hassle of the guides at Kuto Bridge so about three months before we went I contacted Tamba Sousa who had some good reviews and we were in contact up to the day we left when he told me he was actually in England. To his credit he had arranged a replacement with an inexperienced guide who new the sites but I wasn’t convinced he would know the birds. On arrival in Kotu we unfortunately met Ebou Barry who claimed he had 12 years experience of guiding. Later we found out he had spent much of that time in England and had only recently returned to the Gambia so to be charitable let us just say his identification skills were a bit rusty. We booked Ebou for 3 ½ days birding around local sites. To start with he worked hard, had a keen eye and ear and sorted out many of the Gambian woodland birds for us. He then tried to manipulate our deal by rushing the visits so we completed them within just three days and claimed he had then completed his side of the deal. We agreed to pay him the fee for an extra half days birding but to go birding for a full fourth day. Our deal also included food and drink which he supplied very little of and was rarely around when the bills needed paying. I knocked this off the money that we paid him. As the time wore on he became lazy and it became clear he was more interested in trying to manipulate more money from us than to show us more birds. The crowning glory came when at six o’clock one morning he claimed that he could not take us to Fathala as we agreed and tried to get us to go to Tenbada, which we had repeatedly told him we had no wish to go to. He had quoted a ridiculously inflated price of £365 for two people overnight. When we said no deal he tried to back track saying that we could still get the ferry and see if we could get to Fathala. We got his driver Mousa Jeng, who was good company, to drop us at The Senegambia where we parted company and within two minutes we were on our way to Fathala with a hastily arranged trip with the guide Ebrima Jarju from outside the hotel. In short, avoid Ebou Barry like the plague. He over charges, is scheming, manipulative and makes numerous identification errors.
On the plus side we hired an excellent guide called Alagie Trawally at Bijilo who showed us all our target species there. Ebrima Jarju was good in Fathala. We also used the Badala Park Hotel guide Bax to show us a few remaining target species. He was also very good.
Sites visited with Highlights:
Kuto Bridge and Ponds, Cycle track and Jacana Pool, Fajara Golf Course
Giant Kingfisher, Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher, Wattled Plover, Black-headed Plover, Senegal Thicknee, Sacred Ibis, Hadada Ibis, African Spoonbill, Painted Snipe, Rufous-crowned Roller, Broad-billed Roller, Northern Crombec, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Little Bee-eater, Gonoloek. Lizard Buzzard, Lanner.
Abuko
Green and Violet Turacos, African Darter, Little Greenbul, Nile Crocodile, Bushbuck,
Lamin Lodge
Pink-backed Pelican, Malachite Kingfisher, Pearl spotted Owlet, Blue cheeked Bee-eater, Gabar Goshawk.
Mandinaba
African Green Pigeon, Wahberg’s Eagle, African Harrier Hawk, Yellow-billed Oxpecker. African Golden Oriole, Snowy-crowned Robin Chat.
Pirang Shrimp Farm
Pink-backed Pelican, Mosque Swallow, Yellow-crowned Bishop.
Kuloro Forest and Riverside
African Pygmy Kingfisher, Fine-spotted Woodpecker, Golden-tailed Woodpecker.
Faraba Bush Track
Greyish Eagle Owl, Tawny Eagle, Brown Snake Eagle, African Golden Oriole.
Brufut Woods
African Scops Owl, Long tailed Nightjar, Western Bluebill, Senegal Batis, Greater Honeyguide, African Paradise and Orange breasted Flycatchers.
Tanji Beach
Kelp Gull, Royal and Lesser-crested Terns, common waders.
Tujereng Woodlands
Brubru, Northern Black Flycatcher, Black-bellied Bustard, Yellow-fronted Canary, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weaver.
Bonto Rice Fields
Splendid Starling, Palm-nut Vulture, Siffling Cisticola
Marakissa
Giant Kingfisher, Purple Glossy Starling, Striped Ground Squirrel
Bijilo Forest
Oriole Warbler, Stone Partridge, White-cheeked Bee-eater, Green-backed Eremomela
Fathala Game Park (Senegal)
Martial Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard, Helmeted Guineafowl, Striped Kingfisher, Abyssinian Roller, White-backed Vulture, Palm Nut Vulture.
Little Grebe 2 at Kotu Ponds
Pink-backed Pelican 1 at Lamin Lodge, 1 at Pirang
White Pelican 1 at Tanji
Great Cormorant 1 at Denton Bridge
Long-tailed Cormorant Common
African Darter Only at Abuko where common.
Squacco Heron Common
Cattle Egret Abundant
Striated Heron A few around Kuto and Lamin Lodge
Black Heron Mostly around Kuto
Little Egret Only at Kuto Bridge
Western Reef Heron Common
Black-crowned Night Heron Abuko
Black-headed Heron 2 at Abuko, 1 off the Cycle Track, and Kuto Bridge
Grey Heron Common
Purple Heron 1 at Lamin Lodge
Great White Egret Common
Hammerkop Only at Abuko and the creek by Palm Beach hotel Kuto.
African Spoonbill 1 from the Cycle track on our last day.
Sacred Ibis Only from the Cycle track and from Denton Bridge
Hadada Ibis 1 with the Sacred Ibis from the cycle track
White-faced Whistling Duck Very few. 1 on the Jacana pool and a flight at dusk
African Harrier-hawk Common
Palm-nut Vulture Kuto Bridge, Abuko, Fathala and Bonto Rice Fields
Hooded Vulture Abundant
White-backed Vulture 1 at Fathala
Short-toed Eagle 1 near Marakissa
Wahlberg’s Eagle 1 at Mandinaba
Martial Eagle A male at Fathala
Tawny Eagle 1 from the Bush Track
Brown-snake Eagle 1 from the Bush Track
Grasshopper Buzzard 1 at Fathala
Dark-chanting Goshawk 1 near Marakissa and 1 at Fathala
Gabar Goshawk 1 from Lamin Lodge
Shikra Frequent
Lizard Buzzard Frequent
Lanner A pair around Kuto
Peregrine A pair on a nest at Bonto Rice Fields
Black-shouldered Kite 1 near the airport and 1 on wires near Kuto Bridge
Yellow-billed Kite Abundant
Western Marsh Harrier 1 at Pirang and 1 at Lamin Lodge
Grey Kestrel A few around Kuto
Common Kestrel 1 at Marakissa
Osprey 1 at Kuto Bridge, 1 at Fathala
Double-spurred Francolin 6 from the Cycle Track and a few at Tujereng
Ahanta Francolin 2 at Abuko
Stone Partridge 2 at Bijilo
Helmet Guineafowl A covey of 12+ at Fathala. In captivity at Madinaba
Black Crake Heard at the Jacana Pool but 2 well seen at Abuko.
Black-bellied Bustard 2 females at Tujereng
African Jacana Common at the Jacana Pool and at the Kuto Ponds
Painted Snipe 5 at the Jacana Pool and 1 from the Cycle Track
Black-winged Stilt Common
Senegal Thicknee Common
Black-headed Plover 2 on Faraja Golf Course
Wattled Plover Frequent
Spur-winged Plover Common
Ringed Plover Common
Little Ringed Plover Kuto Ponds
Grey Plover A few i.e Tanji Beach
Bar-tailed Godwit A few i.e Tanji Beach
Whimbrel Common
Curlew 1 at Bonto
Redshank Common
Greenshank Frequent
Wood Sandpiper Frequent i.e. Kuto Ponds
Common Sandpiper Frequent
Ruddy Turnstone Common at Tanji a few elsewhere
Sanderling Common at Tanji
Curlew Sandpiper A few at Lamin Lodge
Grey-headed Gull Common
Black-headed Gull A few
Slender-billed Gull Frequent
Lesser Black-backed Gull Only on Tanji Beach
Kelp Gull 2 on Tanji Beach
Gull-billed Tern Frequent
Caspian Tern Frequent
Royal Tern Only on Tanji Beach where common
Lesser-crested Tern Only on Tanji Beach where scarce.
Sandwich Tern Lamin Lodge
Little Tern Off Tanji Beach
Laughing Dove Abundant
Feral Pigeon A few
Blue-spotted Dove Common
Black-billed Wood Dove Common
Speckled Pigeon Common
Namaqua Dove A few such as Lamin Lodge
African Green Pigeon 6 at Mandinaba
Red-eyed Dove Abundant
African Mourning Dove A few in Abuko
Vinaceous Dove Common
Senegal Parrot Frequent
Ring-necked Parakeet Frequent
Pied Crow Abundant
Piapiac Frequent
Senegal Cougal Common
African Scops Owl 2 at Brufut Woods
Pearl-spotted Owlet 1 at Lamin Lodge, 1 at Mandinaba
Greyish Eagle Owl 1 roosting in a Palm from the Faraba Bush Track
Long-tailed Nightjar 2 roosting on the ground at Brufut Woods
Palm Swift Common
Little Swift Frequent
Green Wood-hoopoe Frequent e.g. Casino Cycle Track
Blue-breasted Kingfisher 1 at Kuto Bridge probably the same at the Jacana Pools
Striped Kingfisher 1 at Fathala
Malachite Kingfisher 1 at Lamin lodge and 1 at the Jacana Pools
African Pygmy Kingfisher 1 at Kuloro Forest
Giant Kingfisher 1 at Abuko, 1 on wires at Kuto Bridge, 1 at Marakissa
Pied Kingfisher Common
Broad-billed Roller 1 in the scrub behind the Palma Rima hotel was the one.
Blue-bellied Roller Common
Rufous-crowned Roller Frequent i.e. from the Cycle Track
Abyssinian Roller Common
Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Faraja Golf Course
White-throated Bee-eater 2 at Bijilo
Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Only at Lamin Lodge where Common.
Little Bee-eater Common
Violet Turaco Frequent i.e. Abuko, Mandinaba
Green Turaco Only at Abuko where 3 seen.
Western Grey Plantain-eater Common
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird A few i.e Hotel Garden, Lamin Lodge
Bearded Barbet Abuko, Bronto Rice Fields, Fathala
Vieillot’s Barbet 1 from the Bush Track
African Pied Hornbill 3 in Kuloro Forest, 2 at Bonto Rice Fields
Red-billed Hornbill Common
Grey Hornbill Frequent
Fine-spotted Woodpecker 1 at Kuloro Riverside
Golden-tailed Woodpecker 1 at Kuloro Riverside
Grey Woodpecker Frequent
Greater Honey-guide Brufut Woods
Crested Lark 2 at Pirang
Fanti Saw wing Only at Abuku where c3 seen
Wire-tailed Swallow Frequent
Mosque Swallow 2 at Pirang
Pied-winged Swallow A few at Lamin Lodge
Red-chested Swallow Common
African Golden Oriole 2 at Mandinaba and 1 from the Bush Track
Fork-tailed Drongo Frequent
Common Bulbul Abundant
Little Greenbul 2 at Abuko
Oriole Warbler 2 at Bijilo
Blackcap Babbler Common
Brown Babbler Common
White-crowned Robin-chat Frequent i.e. Mandinaba
Snowy-crowned Robin-chat Frequent i.e Mandinaba, Abuko, Marakissa
African Thrush Common
Melodious Warbler 1 at Lamin Lodge
Chiff Chaff A few around the mangroves near Lamin Lodge
Subapline Warbler 1 at Lamin Lodge and 1 at Kularo
Singing Cisticola 1 at Kuto and 1 at Lamin lodge
Siffling Cisticola 2 at Bronto Rice Fields
Zitting Zisticola 1 at Kuto
Tawny-flanked Prinia Frequent, even at the airport café in departures.
Green-backed Eremomela 2 at Bijilo
Northern Crombec 1 at Faraja Golf Course, 1 at Bijilo
Grey-backed Camaroptera 1 at Mandinba
Common Wattle Eye 2 at Abuko
Senegal Batis 2 at Brufut
Northern Black Flycatcher 1 at Tujereng
African Paradise Flycatcher 1 at Abuko, 1 at Brufut, 1 at Mandinba
Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher 1 at Brufut
Scarlet-chested Sunbird 1 at Mandinaba, 1 at Bijilo
Collared Sunbird 2 at Abuko
Splendid Sunbird Frequent e.g. Abuko
Beautiful Sunbird Frequent, i.e. Nest by Kuto Bridge
Black-headed Tchagra 1 at Mandinaba
Northern Puffback 2 at Brufut
Yellow-billed Shrike Common
Brubru 1 at Tujereng
Woodchat Shrike A few
White-crested Helmet Shrike 8 at the Bush Track, 6 in Fathala
Yellow-crowned Gonolek Frequent i.e. Faraja Golf Course and Mandinaba
Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starling Only in Fathala
Purple Glossy Starling Frequent i.e. Abuko and Marakissa
Long-tailed Glossy Starling Common
Splendid Starling 6 at Bonto Rice Fields
Bronze-tailed Glossy Starling 1 beside the road on the North Bank
Violet-backed Starling A female at Mandinaba
Yellow-billed Oxpecker 3 at Mandinaba and 3 in Fathala
Grey-headed Sparrow Frequent, i.e Lamin Lodge
House Sparrow Common
White-billed Buffalo-weaver Common i.e Cycle Track
Village Weaver Common
Black-necked Weaver Abuko, Brufut
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weaver 1 at Tujereng
Northern Red Bishop Frequent inc a male in summer plumage at Marakissa
Yellow-crowned Bishop Only at Pirang where common
Orange-cheeked Waxbill c20 in Brufut Woods
Lavender Waxbill Frequent i.e. Lamin Lodge
Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Common
Red-billed Firefinch Common
Bronze Mannikin Common
Western Bluebill 1 briefly in Brufut Woods
Yellow-fronted Canary 1 at Tujereng
194 species in total.
Mammals
Green Vervet Monkey – Common i.e. Abuko, Senegambia Hotel, Bijilo Forest
Red Colybus Monkey – A few in Bijilo Forest
Bushbuck – c5 early morning at Abuko and a few in Fathala
Gambian Sun Squirrel – 1 at Abuko and 1 at Bijilo
Striped Ground Squirrel -1 at Tujereng and 1 at Marakissa
Gambian Fruit Bat – A few around the scrub behind the Palma Rima Hotel.
Warthog (Bush Pig) – 4 at Fathala
Roan Antelope – 3, (Introduced to Fathala from Niokolo Kobo Park, Senegal)
Defassa Waterbuck – 2 (Introduced to Fathala from Niokolo Kobo Park, Senegal)
Savannah (African) Buffalo – A herd in Fathala introduced from Niokolo Kobo
Western Giant Eland – 4 (Introduced to Fathala from Niokolo Kobo Park, Senegal)
Giraffe – 4 (Introduced to Fathala from South Africa)
White Rhino – 2 (Introduced to Fathala from South Africa)
Butterflies
Common Grass Yellow Frequent
Citrus Swallowtail Frequent
Veined Swallowtail Bijilo
Large Spotted Acraea Bijilo
Black Pansy Bijilo
Dotted Border Bijilo
Guineafowl Fathala
Reptiles
Nile Crocodile
Nile Monitor
Common Agama