Ghana is a fairly safe and easily traveled country and as we hadn’t birded West Africa we were looking at either SeneGambia or Ghana. The trip reports for Ghana seemed to have more appealing stuff and as Ghana hasn’t been done to death yet this sounded quite interesting. I found an itinerary and as we had some time constraints decided on an 11 day tour as it would give us some good species, a sampling of the country and leave us time in the rest of the year for some other birding.
We booked flights with Lufthasa and United which never seemed to get anything right. Seats and meals that we requested weren’t given and the two times we checked them they confirmed them only for us to get on the plane and find we were in different seats by which time the flight was full. The way back was better and we seemed to get what we had asked for. Odd but there you go. The big shock came when we stepped off the plane in Accra, 95F, when we left the USA it was 25F. Instant sweat and it stayed like this the whole time. Thanks go to Mark for the unlimited water on the trip as I think I drank three people’s rations.
The food was fine and we mostly ate chicken and rice. Didn’t experiment with the Fufu but did try Michel’s one day. I stuck with the chicken.
The bugs weren’t a problem and I didn’t get the usual savaging by insects but there were plenty of stingless bees in Mole that loved the salty sweat and for some reason the camera. They have a fondness for dark crevices so eyes, nose and ears were a target. A little bug spray on my hat close to my ears solved the buzzing madness.
Travel within Ghana is fine. The roads around the main towns in the south are on paved so it’s easy to get about. In the north we took a bumpy dusty road to Mole but that’s the only way in and as you go slow you can enjoy the Grasshopper Buzzards. Traffic in Accra and Kumasi was like any normal rush hour. You’ll get through it and be on your way soon enough. Only one accident slowed us up as a lorry had jackknifed across the road. A local road worker turned up in short order with a road scraper and carved a dirt path around the truck and we were gone in no time.
Guides: I took the Borrow and Demy guide to the birds of West African and Ian Sinclair/ Peter Ryan birds South of the Sahara. I opened it once in the field when we came across an unexpected night heron we couldn’t remember the name of. Near the end I saved weight and left it in the hotel. William and James knew all the rest even IDing some of the difficult Andropadus greenbul’s by site. For recordings I downloaded the songs I wanted from the Chappuis CD set of the African Bird Sounds of West Africa and North Africa. This helped to learn the songs but again I turned on the ipod once the whole time I was there as William and James acted as my ipod, “What’s that?” I’d ask, I’d always get an answer.
Daily Account
Day 0:
We arrived in Accra at 4:00pm and when we got to the door of the plane the heat hit us like a brick. Coming from a below freezing Tennessee this was a bit of a shock. I knew it would be hot but we weren’t prepared for this. We were met by James and were taken through the busy streets of Accra to our hotel. We got settled in and after a few minutes met with James to discuss what we would be doing. The itinerary had been sent to us so we didn’t have any questions.
I spent a little while before dinner with my scope on the porch of our room scanning the ocean finding Royal Tern and 2 Arctic Skua’s. The front of the hotel yielded Brown Babbler and African Thrush. The constant call of African Pied Wagtail was heard but never seen.
Dinner was by ourselves and we enjoy the breeze coming of the Bight of Benin while we ate some lovely fish. A nightjar sailed passed twice through the gardens but by the time I got my flashlight it was gone not to pass through again.
Day 1:
We woke early and were met by James and our main guide for the trip William and our driver Michel. A quiet breakfast was had by all before we loaded up and headed east out of Accra towards Shai Hills. A few birds along the way included Yellow-billed Shrike and a Senegal Coucal along with the common Laughing Dove.
Once out along the main roads and away from the city we came across rolling secondary growth and William spotted two Piapiac’s next to the road so we stopped for them but as we had come from the cool AC of our rooms and van into the sudden moist heat our gear fogged up en mass. Furious wiping of lenses had everyone enjoying the patient birds as they waited for us to inspect them before we continued on to the entrance of Shai Hills.
We unloaded at the gate and got all our gear in order while several Senegal Parrots shouted and screamed from the trees above us. Once all was in order we began hiking into the park. After about 100 yards we turned left between two buildings where we heard and saw Grey-backed Camaroptera calling and flitting through the trees in front of us. More Senegal Parrots sailed over on their way to join their comrades at the front of the park. A Long-crested Eagle did a flyby as we enjoyed a pair of Splendid Sunbirds chasing each other around. Following the dirt path we came across Short-winged and Croaking Cisticola in the long grasses to our left and a scurrying group of Olive Baboons spooked up a huge Straw-colored Fruit-bat that landed in a tree close by for us to get a look at.
As we continued on we found a Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird that began calling to another distant bird. We enjoyed this bird for a while before we back tracked a bit and headed towards a cliff face where we found four White-crowned Cliff Chats chasing each other around the rock face. Satisfied with some scope views we turned back to the trail passing a pair of Northern Puffbacks.
We followed the trail for a while enjoying the scenery and listing out for birds when William found five Stone Partridge next to the trail. We got short but good looks at several of the birds before they erupted out from under the tree they were skulking under, up the hill and into thick bush where they began their raucous calls. We continued down to the end of the trail enjoying Klaas’s Cuckoo, African Grey Hornbill, and nice looks at several White-shouldered Black Tits.
On our return towards the park entrance we came across a Vieillot’s Barbet that allowed us some nice scope views. Closer to the entrance in some thicker bush we found a nice male Copper Sunbird singing and preening.
Glad to get out of the growing heat we drove back west into Accra but shortly into the drive we came screaming to a halt again as William found a Blue-bellied Roller sitting on the wires checking for food. It dropped from the wire onto something before flying back up empty handed. Noticing us it flew across the street landing on a dead snag. This allowed us a closer approach where I could try for some photos. On the way back we spooked up a Black-billed Wood-Dove that gave us some nice fly away views before landing in some thick cover.
We continued west arriving on the outskirts of Accra at Sakumona Lagoon. There were a few targets here for me and we rounded them up quite quickly getting good looks at Western Reef-Egret, Black Egret and Collared Pratincole. Also seen were Common Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpiper, Long-tailed Cormorant, Spur-winged and Wattled Plover, White-faced Whistling Duck, Little and Intermediate Egret, European Curlew and Whimbrel, Grey Plover, a nice pair of Senegal Thick-Knee, Black-winged Stilt and Sanderling. Circling over the grasses were a pair of Ethiopian Swallows and in the grass itself were four Yellow-throated Longclaws panting in the heat of the day. Feeling the same heat we piled back into the van and headed into Accra for lunch passing a nice Grey Kestrel perched on a telephone pole.
After lunch we continued west out of Accra for a while before we turned off the road along a dirt track taking us passed rolling grass plains dotted with low bushes and little islands of trees. The breeze here helped with the heat. After parking up we crossed the road and began to bird around the little islands of trees coming across our first Yellow-crowned Gonoleks. One was seen briefly here as it crossed from one group of bushes to another but they were heard well. A Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat sang from deep inside a tangle so we didn’t waste too much time trying to coax him out.
We crossed round to the other side of a copse of trees coming across a pair of Western Grey Plantain-eaters, quite common along the trip. As we entered a U shape area of trees we could hear several birds including Simple Leaflove, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Black-billed Wood-Dove and Wattled Lapwing from across the road in a watery bog. While recording the Wattle-eyes Susan saw the only Green Turaco’s of the trip. Can’t believe I dipped those. We pushed on through the tree grove and out the other side onto the road and proceeded down here before coming to an open area where we walked in again. A distant bird calling got our attention and after proceeding in a little further James found our target. Two Sulphur-breasted Bush-Shrikes were moving around a distant group of bushes. We got some nice looks at these bright yellow birds before returning to the road and across.
This side of the road was more open with scattered bushes and here we found several Flappet Larks clapping their wings together in display flight. A noisy pair of Red-winged Warblers were lured in close for some good looks and recordings before we continued on finding an African Moustached Warbler singing from low cover, not a satisfying look but that would be made up for later in Mole.
A Black-crowned Tchagra sang from close by and we enjoyed a brief look at it but as it wasn’t a lifer we moved on to more luring birds. We followed a Whinchat for a bit as we continued on before finding another pair of Gonoleks equally as uncooperative as the last pair. We turned and walked back towards the road and stopped to admire the Tchagra again this time with its back to us. I decided to take a picture and set up the scope. That’s when William looked at it and exclaimed “Marsh Tchagra”. Indeed the bird with its back to us was a Marsh Tchagra, while the bird on the other side of the same bush we had seen earlier was a Black-crowned. Nice to have both birds to compare with.
We moved on towards the road as it was starting to get late. We stopped to enjoy a Winding Cisticola sitting out on top of a small tree when William started shouting “Bustard” and pointing to a Black-bellied Bustard taking off and flying away from us. We got to see it’s flight feathers and the beautiful patterns in the wings as it was set against a distant hillside before it reached it’s azimuth and with wings held open and slightly back glided back down in display flight. A fitting end to the days birding.
We loaded up into the van and continued east towards Cape Coast before turning north towards our destination of Hans Botel Cottage. We arrived after dark and enjoyed some dinner while reflecting on a good first days birding.
Day 2:
We arrived at Kakum at first light with birds calling all around. Once our gear was sorted we began the climb up to the canopy walkway. As we approached the second stop we could hear a group of birds close so stopped to explore. A close Speckled Tinkerbird gave us some superb views while a small group of birds passed behind it. We stepped down the trail into the forest to have a better look when the loud ringing calls of two Grey-headed Bristlebills began to chime in on both sides of the trail. We waited as one got closer and popped up on a vine over the trail allowing us some great views before moving across the trail to join the other birds.
In a vine tangle above us a Little Greenbul moved about us for some short views and a singing Grey Longbill was finally located as it flitted about well above us. Two Red-vented Malimbe’s kept us frustrated as they seemed to move around the same tree keeping us going in circles to try and get a view which was finally obtained. A few other birds came and went quickly and the flock moved on.
We went back up to the top and moved on up the trail to the entrance of the walkway but when we got there the gate was still locked. The park guard wasn’t there yet which was frustrating as it was getting late. While we waited we looked down the length of the walkway and could see a group of Malimbe’s and several Yellow-mantled Weavers moving in the distance. Finally the guard showed up with the key and let us in. We walked down to the first platform swaying all the way. It didn’t feel like the walkway would collapse at any time but trying to keep your balance while lugging a load of camera gear wasn’t always easy. A word of caution. Keep all your gear in front of you as I had my camera over my shoulder and it kept getting caught. I tore of my eyepiece off with out knowing it on one of the support ropes. No matter, the birding made up for it and I didn’t notice till we were back at the hotel.
On the first platform we waited and scanned the trees. Though somewhat quiet we did find Cassin’s Honeyguide, African Emerald Cuckoo, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Swamp-palm Bulbul, Golden Greenbul, Violet-backed Hyliota, Ussher’s Flycatcher and a pair of Red-fronted Parrots flying over.
We moved to the third platform and things started to hot up. Several Velvet-mantled Drongo’s began to fly around hawking for insects. One landing nice and close with a large cicada in its bill, which it proceeded to tear apart and eat. A scoped Blue-throated Roller showed well in the distance and James found us a pair of Fanti Sawwing circling over the forest in the distance. William on the other side found Sabine’s and two Cassin’s Spinetail wheeling over the forest. Then a great treat of four Red-billed Helmet-Shrike bounding through the canopy towards us, gave us stunning looks, one landing out in the open fifty feet from us. Several woodpeckers with Fire-bellied and Little-green gave us some good looks and James found a distant Tambourine Dove which William managed to scope for us. A few tourists arrived but only one group and after they moved off we continued on to the last two platforms stopping at the end to enjoy Blue Cuckoo-Shrike, Grey-headed Negrofinch a nice close Sharpe’s Apalis and a huge troop of Olive Colobus, Mona Monkey and Susan found one Spot-nosed Monkey. It seemed quieter than expected but we got some great birds.
Back at Hans Botel we enjoyed some lunch a walked the grounds during the heat of the day taking in the Orange Weaver and Village Weaver colony. Also my best looks at a pair of African Pied Hornbills lounging in the heat of the day feet from the road.
In the afternoon we returned to Kakum and hit the trails. It was very quiet but the song of a Finsch’s Flycatcher-Thrush had us listening out. Once we found the direction we proceeded down the trail spooking up an Ahanta Francolin that burst up into the canopy in a whir of wings and quickly disappeared. We waited for a while trying to lure out the thrush but it didn’t move. We went in after it but the jungle got too thick and it was still too distant.
We continued back to the canopy for the sunset and got to the third platform and began to enjoy the birds moving through the canopy. While recording a pair of Velvet-mantled Drongo two Yellow-billed Turacos moved through the canopy in front of us. One landing in the tree right in front of us. Their red and blue wings shone as they glided over the forest from tree to tree. I was looking at the distant one when the bird sitting in front of us flew so I missed that. I heard it was a great spectacle.
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird began banging away and in no time we had taped it into the tree above us for some ridiculous views. While enjoying this, the most desired kingfisher in the area showed up in the form of a Chocolate-backed. Giving us great views from just below, it began to call to a distant bird before rising up to the tree right above us and singing loudly. It flew across the canopy from here to a tree across from us for some great back views of the stunning blue and chocolate brown before obliging us and turning around for the front.
As we waited for the light to come down a Cassin’s Hawk-Eagle circled over head and a Blue-throated Brown Sunbird sang from a snag behind us. That’s when James picked out the call of a Yellow-billed Barbet. We moved to the back of the platform while he did some playback and in short order two birds were sitting in a vine tangle across from us. Though the views were never great we did mange to see all the parts of the bird allowing for a complete picture. Once one of the pair moved out to an exposed snag for a second but dropped back into cover. The skulking views of this bird were made up for by nice open and extended views of Yellowbill or Blue Malkoha. This bird sat in bright sunlight eating a cicada, bad day for these guys, and it’s metallic blue body and yellow bill and eye ring were clear and easily visible.
As dusk began in earnest the hornbills began to move through the canopy. At first in ones and twos then a huge group of Black-casqued and Yellow-casqued settled in a distant tree and allowed us scope views. As we watched through our binoculars at lovely Brown-cheeked Hornbill flew in to join the others below the line of the canopy allowing good identification details of the spread wings and tail in flight. Sadly it landed just in a blocked spot behind a closer tree.
Having enjoyed the hornbill spectacle it was getting dark so we moved off the canopy walkway and back down the trail to the parking lot. When it was fully dark we tried for some owls but nothing responded and the Brown Nightjar the walkway is famed for has not been heard from in months so we tried for it once but with no results. Satisfied with a good day we drove back to Hans Botel for the night.
Day 3:
I woke quite early this morning and though it was 4:30am, when I stepped outside it was still quite warm. Armed with cd and speakers I walked the grounds of the hotel listening. Near the end of the path where it meets the main entrance road I met William coming down the road. He was listing out but reported he had heard nothing. We went to a few spots and used some playback without results. He said he had heard it near the front gate and behind the lodges but this morning there was nothing. We ended up back at the path to my room and he said lets try one more place. Half way up the road is a pathway leading away from the hotel. Half way down we tried but heard nothing. At the end is a small house and the secondary forest ends here and a field opens up with knee high plants. Walking in a little way we stopped and I used some playback. We waited for a bit and heard nothing. Then I tried again. From the forest across the field came an answer. We both pointed into the dull predawn light. Quickly William began to work his way through the field with me in tow. In the middle of the field we tried again, this time with a close response. Then William exclaimed “there it is”, with the flash light he illuminated the Black-shouldered Nightjar circling above us. It wheeled round us once and returned to the edge of the woods and began singing again. Well pleased with this unexpected bird we headed back to the lodge for breakfast. Thanks go to Robert Ntakor for letting me know it was here and to William for getting up and helping me find it.
After breakfast we drove out to Antwikwaa to bird along here for the day. The dirt road leading in was a bit muddy from the previous night’s rain but was passable. We stopped along the way for a Black Bee-eater and a Red-necked Buzzard and while enjoy them a Spotted Flufftail began to sing behind us accompanied by several others. William found a way into the thick foliage around us and we went in as far as we could before it became a quagmire. We stopped here and waited. The birds were singing close and James used a bit of playback. One sang from right next to us and as we waited it quickly walked past us in a semicircle and through an opening where we could see it’s spotted coat and Rufous head. Just before we were about to load back into the van James noticed the calls of a Red-cheeked Wattle-eye next to the road so we climbed back into another section of forest and soon enough the bird was right in front of us bouncing through the understory. At one point its wattle shone iridescent blue when it caught some light.
Pleased with these views we headed up to the little village we would park at and began to walk the long dirt road through the secondary habitat and farmbush. A Western Nicator sang close by but was never seen and as we continued down the roadway we began to pick off birds, White-breasted Negrofinch was well scoped, Green Sunbird, Green Crombec, Red-headed Quelea, and Black-necked Weaver were all seen well at the beginning of the pathway and the first bit of farmbush. Rosy Bee-eaters were constantly seen over head and as we got to a trail between some banana trees William heard a Dusky-blue Flycatcher which responded to some playback and gave us some great views.
As the forest began to get closer to the pathway on both sides the tall trees around us were dotted with several Black Bee-eaters and a Shrike Flycatcher sang from way up near the top of one of these trees and was briefly spotted as it flew of to a distant perch then on again.
Farther down we came across another path through the forest and as we could hear birds in here we followed it up. Once in the thick foliage we could hear a Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher and soon two were circling around us while another Western Nicator sang from deep cover. A pair of Crested Malimbes were also seen scanning the middle canopy for food. At the end of this path it opened into two fields and in the distant second on a Whistling Cisticola sang from an exposed perch. We watched it for a bit as a distant Black-and-white Flycatcher sang but was never tempted into view.
We returned to the pathway leading back to the village and came across three Tit-Hylia hopping about some secondary growth trees. The distant calls of Blue-throated Coucals could be heard and while we stopped for a listen William found a perched African Pygmy Kingfisher that showed really well in the scope. While getting a picture of this bird James got us onto a Fraser’s Forest-Flycatcher he could hear calling and while we enjoyed some views of this bird an immature Blue Cuckoo-Shrike sang from above us.
On the way back we scoped a Western Black-headed Oriole in the distance but it didn’t stay long. I went ahead to record a nice Blue-spotted Wood-Dove, which flew from cover and landed on a dead snag for some good looks before flying down into the vegetation of the field next to us. Simple Leaflove were next on the list and a pair stayed frustratingly just out of view apart from a few glimpses. Yellow-browed Camaroptera, which had been heard singing for quite some time, was finally seen as we waited for another bird to show itself. Western Olive Sunbird was also seen on the way back. As it was getting quite hot now the activity had died down.
We drove out on the same road which had dried up a bit now and made our way to the Twifo River where we stopped to check for a few targets and once on the banks William quickly found a Rock Pratincole on one of the larger rocks in the center of the river. Now came the difficult one. We scanned the twenty or so swallows that were constantly in front of us over the river till James relieved the tension with “I’ve got one”. He got me onto the bird and now I could see the deep navy blue coloration and as it moved away in a sharp turn the white patch on it’s throat was clear. A White-throated Swallow disappeared down the river away from us. William called us down to the shoreline where he was set up with the scope and had two birds resting on the bridge supports. Now we could enjoy them without having to follow them with binoculars. After a few nice looks through the scope we climbed back up the bank and that’s when Susan informed me she wasn’t feeling well. We went straight back to Hans Botel, Michel I’m sure driving faster than the posted 50kmh, and got her to bed. While she rested I explored the grounds of the hotel and found several nice pairs of Vieillot’s Weavers at the back side of the dining area along the little path that runs next to the river. Also a lovely Woodland Kingfisher posed for a photo while overlooking the pond next to the lodge and a pair of Squacco Heron’s chased each other croaking as they went.
After lunch I went to meet William but he informed me the van had gone in for a quick repair as something was wrong. We couldn’t leave till the van was back. We had planned to go to Cape Coast but as Susan was ill I thought we would do some local birding instead but as the van didn’t get back till 4:30 we decided to stick with the original idea and that was to head to Brimsu Reservoir.
When we got there three groups of Grosbeak Weavers overflew us as we walked the path to the lake. William also found a kettle of three Yellow-billed Kites flying over us but it was the rather uncommon dark morph Ayer’s Hawk-Eagle that set him off. The bird was quite high but off on its own staying aloof from the kites but circling with them. When we got to the lake several locals were fishing and we figured this would keep our target well hidden. We were kept entertained by Common Sandpiper and Green Sandpiper along with Long-tailed Cormorants. Several Yellow-billed Kites circled us and when an Osprey flew over I casually mentioned it as it is fairly common back home so I didn’t think much of it. William and James were thrilled. I think this migrant was only the second time they had seen one. Sadly now it was out of sight on the other side. Though a few minutes later it showed back up and we had some good looks at the bird and at one time it dove down on the water and sent an
We left and headed back to the van. As we closed in several Blue-headed Coucals began to sing from the bushes next to the road and we managed a few looks before one sat up close to the road and we enjoyed some nice prolonged looks at the bird till dusk sent us back to the hotel.
Back at the hotel I checked on Susan and got some dinner which I collected and had back in the room. A good days birding but not a good day for Susan.
Day 4.
This morning we left for Aboabo. As we loaded up I took some time to get a few pictures and came across several Bar-breasted Firefinch looking for seeds in the grounds. A White-throated Bee-eater landed on the wires and I went up to get a picture. As I came back a Didric Cuckoo landed on the wire up the hill in the orchard so I went back up. It flushed before I got there but the bird I found flying low into the orchard was a real treat. A Great Spotted Cuckoo landed here and eyed me up for a second before moving deeper into the lone tree in front of me. As I maneuvered to get a better picture it flew out to the back of the orchard then up onto an exposed limb where I was able to creep underneath it and get a good shot. We began to fill up the van when James spotted a pair of Piping Hornbill flying over and landing in the grounds of the hotel. We all had a good look at this pair before we tore ourselves away. Finally loaded up we left Hans Botel heading north taking our time and stopping at the Preuss’s Cliff Swallow colony along the road. There were plenty of these birds circling the river and coming and going under the bridge. We left from here and continued north till we made the turn off and began driving into thicker jungle along the dirt road. We stopped after a while to see how deep the mud was at one point and I managed to record a Woodland Kingfisher. Seeing that the road was passable we continued on till we found a good spot to stop and got out to bird. Copper-tailed Glossy-Starling called from above us and White-spotted Flufftail called from the watery woods next to the trail. We walked down the path a ways enjoying scope views of Black-winged Oriole and a Red-headed Malimbe. While we were scanning the jungle listening out for a bird William shouted out “African Piculet”. The small, diminutive little bird sat motionless for a bit allowing us great views at it’s reddish eye ring. We moved on along the road for a while more before stopping where the forest opened up on both sides a bit more. We scanned the forest here finding Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Chestnut-breasted and Grey-headed Negrofinch and the continuous calls of Black-throated Coucal deep in the forest. William could hear some Wood-Hoopoes so we tried for them moving down the road a bit. Soon two White-headed Wood-Hoopoes were flying over. A little play back turned up three or four Forest Wood-Hoopoe which we enjoyed some close looks at as they scampered through the vine tangles above us. A distant Black Cuckoo was heard but not lured closer. As it was beginning to warm up we headed back to the van and loaded up to continue our journey.
We had a stop for lunch before we continued on arriving at our destination around 3:00pm. It was hot out and the little village was fairly quiet as people sat in the shade waiting for it to cool down. No luck for us. We loaded up our gear and began the hike into the forest. A single person track wound its way through thick jungle with an open understory. Little parties of birds came in two’s and three’s with a Grey Tit-Flycatcher singing well and seen close along with a Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher. A Fire-crested Alethe sang from deep in on the forest floor. The two note song of Green Hylia was often heard and the increasing pace of “hoop”s from a Tambourine Dove filled our ears. After a while we got to the climb and above us was a rock face. We scrambled up and once reaching the entrance we could see the mud nests stuck to the side of the face. We moved across and got set up on the far side of the cave and began our vigil. This was not wasted time though as the constant, drawn out call of Finch’s Flycatcher-Thrush was heard close by. A lovely group of five Red-billed Helmet-Shrike’s moved right towards us voicing their snapping, churring calls, while in the back ground several African Pied Hornbills argued over something. At one point a Tree Hyrax began to call out in the middle of the afternoon which was unusual. The local guide said that maybe here pup had fallen out of the tree as they don’t tend to call during the day. The sun had begun to work its way to the horizon when I saw movement across from me. A whirring wing then a body moved through the foliage. I pointed across the gap to the movement but William nodded his head whispering that it was too early. I kept watching and soon enough the bright yellow coloration of a Western Nicator came into view. As it turned to the side I got a great look at the white spots on it’s plumage before it flew up out of sight. The waiting continued for a bit more before I got a light tap on the shoulder and William pointed down the slope into the vine tangles. I got a brief glimpse before the bird moved off with a flash of white. We waited some more and we continued to peer down the slope waiting to see if they would come back. It was about 5:00pm now and the sun was getting close to dropping when I looked across the cave mouth right into the eyes of a pair of Yellow-headed Picathartes. They stared inquisitively at me before dropping onto the cave floor and hopping up onto several U shaped vines in front of us. Behind them two more dropped down onto the branches behind. We had four in view and from behind us came three more. The four stared at us for a while and moved up and down the vines for a bit before moving across right next to us and looking up at us as they passed. The seven then disappeared round the back of the cave mouth and into the forest. I decided this was the best time to leave as we wouldn’t disturb the birds on the way out. A quick stop to get a picture of one of the nests and we quickly but cautiously scrambled back down the slope into the forest and got away while it was still light. We had about ten minutes with the amazing birds. Not a word was spoken and only the sound of my shutter broke the silence.
The way back was not uneventful either. A tiny Gaboon Viper was noticed by William as we disturbed it from the path. It moved away into the leaf litter and we left it alone before walking on. The metallic rattle of a Rufous-sided Broadbill stopped William in his tracks and we waited for a while, listening before it flew again. It was a bit of a ways back but one of the local guides noticed it fly out and back to its perch and got us onto the bird. We watched in the failing light as it did a display flight. Really happy to find two of our big targets in one afternoon’s hike was great. We met James back at the van and loaded up and drove on to our hotel in Kumasi.
Day 5
I woke early this morning to check the grounds finding Vieillot’s Barbet, Purple Glossy Starling, African Thrush and a nice Buff-throated Sunbird feeding in the flowers outside our room. After breakfast we waded our way through morning traffic before hitting the open road travelling north. Once out of Kumasi the foliage began to change. Dry habitat began to dominate with scrub brush and scattered trees. We stopped at a few spots along the way when James or William would spot a Lizard Buzzard or Grasshopper Buzzard. After a lunch stop we continued on to the Black Volta and crossed into the north of the country. We continued along here for a while till we turned off onto the long dirt road to Mole.
We arrived in the late afternoon and got checked into our room and I was able to take the scope down to the observation deck overlooking the water hole where I could make out several Kob, Warthog, Waterbuck, Bushbuck and a lone Double-spurred Francolin.
After dinner we decided to head over to the old airfield to try for nightjars. We arrived long after dark and slowly crept down the airstrip weaving back and forth with the William in the front scanning with the torch. We got to the end with no luck so turned around and continued back. About half way down we stopped and got out. Almost absolute blackness encompassed us once the van was turned off. We waited for a bit when both James and William heard African Scops Owl calling in the distance. With a little playback a bird came close. We scurried over some dirt piles and through some tall grasses and down a slope into some open forest. With the torch William found a bird close and we were able to follow it for a bit and enjoy some nice close views. After this we went back to the van and made our way to the hotel for the night.
Day 6
Early morning in Mole is alive with bird song. The distant purr of Long-tailed Nightjars could be heard along with raucous Grey-headed Kingfisher and Senegal Thick-Knee from the waterhole below the hotel. After breakfast we collected our park ranger Christopher and headed for the Samole loop. We drove down into the gorge and when we came across a large amount of bird song, stopped. We piled out and were surrounded by birds. In ten minutes we had Striped Kingfisher doing song display, Double-spurred Francolin, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting, Senegal Eremomela, Lavender Waxbill, Bush Petronia, Brubru and Senegal Batis all without moving from the spot we were in. James’s sharp ears picked out a Fine-spotted Woodpecker and with some playback we had two quite close. Following them into the bush we found several Senegal Parrots too. Staying the brush we came across Oriole Warbler feeding in the leaf litter on the ground in front of us. Several Red-throated Bee-eaters coming into the low open brush to catch insects and a Blue-breasted Kingfisher were seen nice and close. Once out of the closed in brush we came across several Bar-breasted and Red-billed Firefinches and a pair of Bearded Barbets, one sitting out in the open for some prolonged looks.
We crossed through a row of tree’s again and a water course riddled with elephant tracks into a cul-de-sac where we found a Black Crake searching for food along another tiny puddle of water. A Western Olivaceous Warbler churred from the cover around the water course and took a bit to find and once spotted we moved through the brush line into another open area following a tree line to a large water hole. Several Black-crowned Night-Heron’s spooked from the cover of trees and when we stopped at the water hole a Swamp Flycatcher sang behind us. James hit it with some playback and soon three were darting around the twisted limbs of the low slung trees that followed the little creek behind us. A Hamerkop and some egrets were at the waterhole so we moved on.
Coming into a dry thicket we stopped when a pair of Pearl-spotted Owlets began to sing back and forth to each other. Christopher found one and William got it in the scope as James and I scoured the tree in front of us for the other. With no luck we ran over to William for some nice looks at the bird in the morning light. I managed to creep closer and got some nice photos before it flew off.
When I went back to join the others James found a Greater Honeyguide in a dead tree in front of us which was a nice addition as we had only found the one honeyguide so far.
Crossing over another water course we spooked up a group of Blackcap Babblers which we only caught fleeting glimpses of before they disappeared out the back of the brush line. While William was scanning the other side of the brush to see where they had gone he peered into the large tree next to us and exclaimed “Pel’s,…there’s a Pel’s in this tree” he said pointing to the thickly leaved tree next to us. Dropping back and scanning into the tree he found a spot and set up the scope. Peering through the eye piece a pair of dark, black eyes peered back at me from the orange/tan disk shaped face of a Pel's Fishing Owl. I stepped back from the scope and everyone else all got a good look at the bird before I began to look at places where I might get in to get a picture. William called the other group of birders in the park with Robert and let them know where we were. I can imagine their frustration and agony of creeping along the bumpy, twisty road from somewhere deep in the park, inching their way along to get to the spot where they thought we would be. In the mean time we continued to move around the tree angling for a better look when the bird erupted from cover and flew across the park into a distant tree. William was quickly on the bird and he had it in the scope. We checked other angles from where we were and moved to a gap in the tree line in front of us where we could see through to the distant tree unobstructed. This time we waited and eventually the other group arrived. It must have been about half an hour and I could see the look of relief on their faces when we told them it was still there. Jokingly I ribbed one of the group for taking their time but I don’t think it came of quite well. None the less their group got to enjoy this magnificent bird too.
After all had satisfactory looks I began to creep over to the tree with Christopher, as he had the rifle, and found a spot quite close where the bird sat under the canopy and I snapped away. Christopher called me over saying he had the perfect angle and in short order I had frame filling shots of the entire bird, stunning! We finally walked away and left this magnificent owl in peace and continued on making our way towards the van.
The Blackcap Babblers made a reappearance and this time we got good looks at them and even a recording of their raucous calls. Back at the van we guzzled bottles of water and were well pleased with the mornings birding. From here we made a stop at the observation deck overlooking the water hole where we could see Bushbuck and Waterbuck with some Kob and Warthog. Behind the only large bush appeared a huge bull Elephant with the ubiquitous Cattle Egrets in tow. A pair of Gonoleks called from the thick foliage next to us and several Long-tailed Starlings allowed some nice looks from the water hole behind us. Our brief rest here was interrupted shortly after when Christopher’s phone buzzed in his pocket and in broken Twi/English I heard the word “Spotted Creeper”. Now it was our turn to get frustrated with creeping through the park. We found the spot and with a quick phone call to Robert he said to look for the two trees with the vines. That actually helped as the trees in question were right in front of us on the road. We stepped out and listened for a bit and James then hit the playback. Soon enough the bird was scaling a tree right in front of us. It continually moved from tree to tree and we got some nice looks. It reversed course at one point and flew right back over our heads. I lost it at that point but James pointed into the tree behind me and I turned around and began to walk that way peering into the tree. I should have been looking down as I walked right into an ankle high termite mound and with camera in hand literally bit the dust. Luckily my knee and elbow broke most of the fall with little damage but one bent screw on my flash mount and a bit of dirt on the camera body, we were fine. Better yet the bird was still there and actually flew into the tree next to me. I quickly fired off four frames but in the fall must have rolled one of the dials forward so all the shots were over exposed. Managed to save one in post production but still not great. I kept my eyes down after that. Back at the van I washed off and had a laugh about it before we headed back to the hotel for lunch and a rest.
After the hot part of the afternoon we made our way back out at 3:30pm though it was still quiet we stopped at a river crossing with some thick riparian woodland. As we got out a herd of 30 Roan Antelope scurried off leaving a cloud of dust in their wake. We walked along the creek, though there was little out but the distant call of a bird lured James across the open area in front of us. William had heard it too and they were listening out when we got to the far side of the clearing. The long wailing “hooo” of a Grey-headed Bush-Shrike was close. James used a bit of trusty playback and soon the bird could be seen flying in front of us, its bright yellow plumage showing well in the sun. It landed in a tree close by and continued to call before flying across the open area close to the van. The bird sat out near the top and continued to sing and while scanning for it William found two Violet Turacos bounding about in the same tree. Shortly thereafter William had the Bush-Shrike in the scope and we could all enjoy it while it continued to sing, catching the afternoon light in its bright eye.
As we walked back towards the van a thick scrubby area along the river turned up some great species with Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Red-faced Cisticola, Black-winged Bishop and Yellow-mantled Widowbird. A pair of Northern Puffbacks jostled around the tree above us before we entered back into the cool of the van.
We continued on for a while till we came across a bridge over another watercourse. We stopped to peer down on several Hamerkops when three Wooly-necked Storks flew up, one landing out in the open for all to enjoy. I got out to get some pictures when a Palm-nut Vulture glided right over our heads followed closely by a deep chestnut colored fifth year Bataleur Eagle. Having snapped pictures of all four birds I retreated to the comfort of the van and we continued on.
We moved into some thicker forest and found several good birds here. Several close Double-spurred Francolin were enjoyed through the windows and a lone female Black-bellied Bustard meandered away from us allowing nice looks. Vinaceous Dove was common and a nice Black-shouldered Kite sat out on a snag next to the road for all to enjoy.
Next up William spotted a Rufous-crowned Roller next to the road and we got out to get a better look but it disappeared farther back into the open woodland. We crept back farther and farther and I eventually found the bird just in time to watch it fly off. William on the other hand was heading in the other direction when I got back to him. He was listening intently and checking all the trees around him. He spoke to James and a few seconds later some play back emerged from his speaker and the bird in question flew right over us landing behind us. We moved for a better look and so did the bird though it moved onto a nice dead snag and from behind some brush we were able to enjoy the bird. Black plumage an decurved bill, the white tips to the tail stood out and a tick sat attached behind it’s eye giving it an almost nictitating membrane look. The Black Scimitarbill sat for a while before flying off showing the white semicircles in its wings.
We continued to walk down this road as the birding was getting better as it was getting cooler. Several White Helmet-Shrikes bounded from tree to tree in a rather vocal group and a Brown-backed Woodpecker put in a short appearance. Next to the road we walked a narrow strip of woods that opened up onto a large open area. Flying in front of us were a pair of White-fronted Black Chats that we finally caught up with once out in the open. Great scope views and a recording of the song was nice.
In the distance an Abyssinian Roller chased another bird around the canopy and we got to see it perched up and enjoyed it’s azure blue coloration. Several birds flew up in front of us in the short grass and William pointed out Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark and in a short bush several Chestnut-capped Sparrow-Weavers flew out and disappeared into the tree line. We circled the field around back towards the van till William stopped us and pointed to what looked like an elephant mound and perched atop it was a strange lark. No one could identify it but it sat perched with wings slightly open showing a bright reddish lower back and rump. It dropped down and ran along the ground then flew up into a short narrow reed and sat open winged again. As we got close it flew across the dirt track and onto the opposite side from us. Curious we followed trying to get better looks. It continued to move away from us but whenever it would stop, out would go the wings. At one time it turned face on towards us and it’s heavily marked face and streaked chest helped and with James and the field guide we nailed it as a Rufous-rumped Lark a rare species in Ghana and only here on migration.
Back at the van we packed up and slowly made our way back out as it was getting dark. We crept along for a while until we came across three Four-banded Sandgrouse sat in the road. We watched as the flew farther up the road then spooked again into the forest and were gone. We continued on till dark to a large open area. Here we got out and enjoyed the cool evening breeze in the darkness that surrounded us. James began to scan around with his torch and soon found five Sun Larks that darted off and sank into cover occasionally flying a short distance then landing. We listened out for night birds and the distant song of a Long-tailed Nightjar came back but too far away to try for. William began to scan the tree line with his torch and soon had a Demidoff’s Galago in the torch beam bounding from trunk to trunk. With scant bird sounds we got back in the van and drove slowly back to the lodge for dinner. A great first day in Mole had treated us to some stunning birds.
Day 7
This morning we drove to a different part of the park. Enroute we stopped to bird a section of open woodland finding Abyssinian Roller calling. A group of birds was in the tree above us and James called out “Yellow-bellied Hyliota”. Quickly the Roller was forgotten and we moved to James and he pointed out the bird as it moved about in the canopy then flew to another tree. We followed till it flew to another more distant tree but here it sat for a few seconds in the middle story where we could see the white wing bar in the morning light. A great find by James of the seldom encountered bird. As we made our way back to the van William noted that several Bruce’s Green Pigeons were calling from farther back and as we moved off in the van he found one perched up on a dead snag about twenty yards later. Back out of the van he got it in the scope for a nice look. We finally stopped in earnest where there was a large watercourse and as soon as we arrived and had gotten out of the van William pointed over head saying “Trogon, Trogon, Trogon”. Here in Mole? I thought. Wow! Sure enough a beautiful male Narina’s Trogon, sat in a tree in front of us. It flew closer then further back where it paused long enough for some nice looks at the back of the bird before it dropped down. A good start to the day. We didn’t move from this spot for some time as birds came thick and fast. African Grey Hornbill, Western Grey Plantain-eater and Senegal Parrot were all common here and a pair of beautiful African Blue Flycatchers kept us entertained. A pair of bright Yellow-crowned Gonoleks behind us in cover gave us some good looks and when we went in after them we found a pair of Red-faced Lovebirds feeding on fruit right above us. Covered in sticky seeds we made our way back out to the road to enjoy a Northern Black Flycatcher singing as we picked off the seeds.
We finally dragged ourselves away from here and down to the bridge over the river and stopped here. Looking to one side William found a White-crowned Robin-Chat perched up in one of the riverside trees. Several Orange-cheeked Waxbills came to the water’s edge to drink and the best surprise was when we looked on the other side of the river we found a kingfisher, “Shining-blue Kingfisher, Shining-blue Kingfisher” came William’s excited voice. Amazing, another great find. This bird sat there for us to enjoy and we took pictures and got it in the scope while it waited patiently for the chance to hunt. A lovely Red-billed Firefinch came in to get a drink and both were spooked off by a couple of girls from the local village coming to get water.
We moved on up the road and climbed a bank and began walking back amongst the open grassland and scattered trees. We came to a small lake covered in lilies and enjoyed several African Jacana’s and James found my one of our targets. Looking through the scope I could see the bright yellow of a Broad-billed Roller sitting on a snag overlooking the lake. A Whalberg’s Eagle flew over and several Little Bee-eaters flitted over the lake catching insects.
We left here and walked back across the open area as James had heard an African Cuckoo which we tried for on several occasions coming up empty. Our attention turned to a Lesser Honeyguide that we found in the tree line in front of us but when the cuckoo called again from behind us we moved in it’s direction. Suddenly a whir of grass right next to us startled us as a huge bird flew out of cover and cruised low over the grass with what looked like two small insects chasing it. When it turned to drop into thick grass we could see its long wing feathers stand up as it sank down. “Standard-winged Nightjar” we all called in unison. James and I crept over close to where it was and it flushed up again heading for the river, standards in tow. The hits just kept on coming. We slowly made our way back out to the road and walked back to the bridge. Here we walked in along the riparian woodland finding Senegal Parrot and on the ground were several Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Firefinches. Once into the woods itself we found a spot overlooking the river through some trees and waited as White-crowned Robin-Chat skulked by, Blackcap Babblers moved through in the understory and a pair of Square-tailed Drongo hawked for insects moving back and forth, one landing within 10 feet of me before flying off again. A nice male Green-headed Sunbird moved through the understory getting caught in a beam of light that pierced the leaves, shining of his iridescent green head. We made our way back out to the road and tried the far side for more birds seeing a Black Cuckoo fly past and as it was starting to warm up things began to quiet down but we did stop at the bridge again to enjoy the antics of a stunning male African Paradise Flycatcher in glowing white morph. It danced around the riverine trees calling and flashing its wedding train like tail. As we left him and walked back the van a Red-shouldered Cuckoo-Shrike flew low across the road flashing his bright red shoulders.
Back at the van we stopped for water then continued on into more woodland on the other side. We followed a trail through into an open grassy area again but now the singing of the cuckoo was very distant. We hiked back as it was very quiet but the song of a Melodious Warbler stopped us under a lone tree to enjoy this winter migrant as a second chimed in from farther away. We followed the trail back up startling up a pair of Double-spurred Francolins and coming across a vine snake of some sort with a bulge in it from its last meal. The morning session was over but what a morning. Lunch and a rest were well earned.
Having hit so many of our targets we were a bit stumped as to where to go this afternoon but decided to head down to the basin of the park and see what we could find. The going was slow in the afternoon heat but a group of three Stone Partridge next to the van made for some of the best views of this bird on the trip. Next a group of starlings had us stopped as we enjoyed our only Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling of the trip. We stopped a little farther on and walked another narrow watercourse. We could hear several birds and as we wound our way through gaps in the brush and over little creeks we came into some birds. First a Yellow White-eye was found by William in a vine tangle in a tall tree and several Red-throated Bee-eaters circled around as we got close to their colony. Several Stone Partridges were found by James and they scurried under a bush. James went around to the other side to see if he could flush them out our way but instead spooked out a White-backed Night-Heron which burst out of the leaf cover and down the water course. Several Yellow-winged Bats were seen here too with their massive ears and yellowish complexion. We hiked down the creek a ways till we found the Heron again for some better looks.
From here we hiked back to the open area where there is a blind overlooking a water hole. Many huge footprints were left here by elephant’s and we found the holes of the bee-eaters in the bank. Several Pin-tailed Whyda, Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver and Blackcap Babblers were in attendance here and our best looks at Bruce’s Green Pigeon were had here. Their strange calls echoing around us as we enjoyed a bright pair sitting on a dead snag above us. Again we waited for darkness to fall and began our way back to the lodge. Once dark we patrolled the roads looking for nightjars and soon enough something landed in the road. William called out “Spotted Thick-Knee” we all clambered out for a look but it took off in short order. We continued along the dirt road and eventually came across a nightjar that flew down the road and out of site. We caught up to it a while later and as we got closer it flew up showing some white in the wings and outer tail feathers as it’s tail wasn’t long I decided on Freckled Nightjar. When I came across Robert that night he asked what we’d seen and he told me they had also had Freckled along the same stretch of road.
Farther down the road we again came across a nighjar and this time it flew down the road in front of us and landed. As we got closer it lifted off and out into the woods. We waited for a while and soon enough it flew through the headlights and it was easy to make out the long feathers of a Long-tailed Nightjar. Happy with this discovery we continued back to the hotel for dinner.
After dinner we went back over to the airstrip and this time we did spook up a Nightjar but lost it over the woods. We did find some eyeshine but the bird in question flushed before we could get close enough to tell what it was. Back at the lodge we did the checklist and after that James and I decided to walk the grounds to look for some owls and Robert joined us. The short circle of the lodge didn’t turn up the hoped for owl but we did find Blotched Genet and Marsh Mongoose. Another great day in Mole came to an end.
Day 8
This morning I rose early and listened to the Long-tailed Nightjars in the distance beyond the water hole along with the morning chorus of Grey-headed Kingfishers and Senegal Thick-knee. Helmeted Guinea fowl, Double-spurred Francolin and Stone Partridge all added to the cacophony and as I walked the grounds found a pair of Hadada Ibis flying in. Northern Puffbacks were in attendance while a noisy Senegal Eremomela at the campsite kept me entertained for a few minutes. The only Familiar Chat of the trip was seen below the escarpment as I scanned for morning birds. While the last life bird of Mole was had with a Grey Woodpecker outside our room just before we left. Mole had been kind to us but it was time to head south again.
The bumpy road mercifully ended quicker than it seemed on the way in and there were still good birds along the road with many Grasshopper Buzzard, Shikra, a pair of Ovambo Sparrowhawk’s, Woodchat Shrike and Afracan Grey Hornbills.
We arrived late into Kumasi for a good nights sleep ready for the next days birding.
Day 9
Today we drove to Bobiri Butterfly Reserve arriving early morning. As we got out we were surrounded by both species of Orioles, Western Black-headed and Black-winged, singing and calling, flying from the trees above us. As we began to walk the trail a White-crested Hornbill was spotted and dropped out of the canopy and was gone. James picked out the call of a Melancholy Woodpecker and with some playback it flew overhead and landed close by. It continued to sing for a bit but as it was further back we moved down to an open area between two huge stands of bamboo. Here we listened out for our target. James again was quick with the playback and after a while our target glided across the horizon landing on a dead snag which was sadly backlit. Still with scope on it we could make out the Afep Pigeon sitting up in the morning light. In the distance a Black Cuckoo sang and Common Bulbul joined in with a Grey Kestrel.
William scoped a dead tree with plenty of holes in it that several Naked-faced Barbets were using, featherless heads popping out from time to time. He also scoped a nice pair of Slender-billed Greenbuls for the best looks of the trip. While enjoying this, our Afep Pigeon glided overhead and into a more advantageous position and now in better light we got great scope views as its body pulsed with its deep call.
Moving into the bamboo on the far side produced several Sunbirds best of which was the sought after Superb Sunbird. Fraser’s, Green and Little Green were all seen here too. Another nice treat was a pair of Melancholy Woodpeckers that alighted the tree way above us for some neck straining views. While enjoying these two a Preuss’s Golden-backed Weaver was found inspecting the clump of mistletoe growing in the boughs. James found a Least Honeyguide and with some quick descriptions of its whereabouts it was found, lost, found, lost and finally found when it moved into the more open tree with the woodpeckers. William was quick to scope it and we got some good looks at it.
From here we continued up the trail where we found a nice Little Grey Greenbul singing and the close “poop…poop…poop” of a Red-rumped Tinkerbird. With some playback the bird came close and was chased about by a Speckled Tinkerbird which made for a great show.
Onwards we moved as the forest crept in about us on both sides. The name of this placed lived up to its reputation as there were butterflies everywhere. Some close activity had us weaving into the open understory of the forest where we found a somewhat open area and with some playback James had the Western Bearded Greenbul moving about us. While we enjoyed this bird a Red-tailed Bristlebill flew in and landed on a U shaped vine hanging across the gap in front of us. Its tailed fanned out and bright yellow coloration was enjoyed briefly as it noticed us as it landed and went right back the way it had come. We weaved our way back out to the mud trail and were soon listening to a White-crested Hornbill and Grey Longbill singing simultaneously. As I was recoding this William pointed up saying “Black Dwarf Hornbill”. I craned my neck back and right above us a hundred feet up sat the bird. Black, banana shaped bill peering out into the canopy of the forest. It flew off into the forest then back across, landing in a gap between two trees for some brief but good views.
We came into the next clearing and listed out and we then heard the other dwarf hornbill singing in the distance. As it came closer we got a glimpse of it moving through the canopy then back to where we had just been. We grabbed our gear and went hiking back into the forest to where the bird was singing above us. It moved once and William was on it getting it in the scope. Partially blocked I could only see the brown back and bright eye till it turned its head past the branch that was blocking it and its bright red bill shone out from the drab canopy. It then turned towards us and the whole of the bill could be seen shining through the leafy canopy and now I could take in the stunning Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill. Having gotten the last of the hornbills on our target list we made our way back out to the trail and continued on.
We came to an opening where a huge white barked tree loomed over us. Above us somewhere in the canopy was our target. It was calling from a little ways away but James lured it in and it sat above us singing. In the morning light and through the scope I could see the metallic sheen of the Purple-throated Cuckoo-Shrike. The incessant ticking of a Tiny Sunbird from the degraded secondary brush in front of us had us scanning the foliage for brief glimpses of the bird till it popped out on top for all to see it’s Green and red plumage.
Satisfied we moved on down the path and were stopped dead in our tracks as a Black-throated Coucal flew across the path, black throat, white belly and rufous red tail flashing in front of us. Having tapped out our targets for the area we made our way slowly back picking up a group of three Chestnut-capped Flycatchers and running into the pair of Purple-throated Cuckoo-Shrikes this time the female seen well too, a stunning bird in her own right.
We packed up and drove on to our lunch stop and then onto the hotel near Atewa. It began to rain as we got close and it worried me we might not get in the afternoons birding but as we got to the hotel the rain stopped but the clouds were still lingering. During the afternoon the rain came down in earnest but just before we were to head out it let up.
We arrived at the trail up to the Atewa forest and birded the farmbush here. It was quiet after the rains though the place was filled with Black-and-white Mannikins and several Blue-headed Coucals sang from the cover of the woods. An African Hobby sat by its nest in a tall tree overlooking the open spaces around it and in the stream that ran through the fields White-spotted Flufftails hooted back and forth. James found a nice Johanna’s Sunbird and near the top of the trail before the gate a bluebill was heard but could not be lured out. William walked down the trail a bit and it had been sitting out on a short tree behind the brush in front of us but quickly dropped out of sight. Behind us Simple Leaflove did their low ‘hahaha….hahaha” song and one was seen on the way back down. As we peered into the head high plants growing in the field in front of us the Western Bluebill sang again and this time James hit it with some playback and soon a pair was seen moving through the understory of the field in front of us. We trudged on down the path when an Ahanta Francolin burst out from the opposite side of the hill next to us. Working our way carefully through the farmers pepper plants we made our way up the hill and onto the other side. There was no sign of the Francolin but William began a single note whistle. I was thinking to myself “that’s not a francolin” but Williams sharp ears had heard one note from another bird and seconds later it landed in the tree to our right. The Buff-spotted Woodpecker uttered a drawn out single note call in response to Williams replica whistle. We enjoyed some great looks as this bird circled around us inspecting the trunks of the trees for insects. We wove our way back down to the path and slowly out as the light began to fade.
Day 10
This was our last day. We left early and met our 4 x 4 transportation at the base of the mountain and reloaded and began the climb up to the top. It took a while as we crept over large bumps, ruts and twists but emerged at the top and parked. When we got out the park was alive. There were birds calling everywhere. Drongos, Greenbuls, Hylias and a plethora of other birds joined the chorus. Where to begin. We went in after the Drongo first but no luck. We emerged on the other side and followed the path down till it split off onto a smaller path. Along this beginning stretch we found a pair of Fraser’s Forest-Flycatchers that perched up nicely. This was followed by a lovely Yellow-whiskered Greenbul and the so far dipped Icterine Greenbul, which was found to James’ relief. He had commented on its absence the night before. Another flurry of action came when William pointed to two Blue-headed Bee-eaters sitting patiently in the canopy over the trail. We got some great looks at this range restricted Bee-eater, this being one of the few places they are seen in Ghana. While enjoying these, a pair of West African (Bioko, Fernando Po) Batis’s flew into the open canopy of the tree where the Bee-eaters were and bobbed around and chased each other. We moved past to get better looks back at them against the green leafy canopy when William found a Black-capped Apalis. Satisfied with great looks at these birds we moved on. Still there were birds calling all around us but the next call was the one that set us off. The long wail of a Congo Serpent-Eagle has us scanning the distant canopy. There was no sign of the bird but it continued to sing. We moved up and down the trail trying to find a way in to get close when William found a spot and in we went.
We clambered past vines and stumps and bush tangles till we found the massive tree it was sat in. We looked up just as it flew out and we watched as it disappeared towards the back of the forest. It continued to call once there but now we were truly inundated with birds as a massive canopy flock moved in about us. Shining Drongo, Western Black-headed Oriole, Golden Greenbul, Little Grey Greenbul, Red-tailed Greenbul, Blue-billed Malimbe, Plain Greenbul, Slender-billed Greenbul and others moved about us. After about twenty minutes most had passed but with the adrenaline still pumping we heard a target missed at Kakum. James used some playback and a pair of Western Forest Robins came into view in the knee high understory, the orange throated male seen well with the female sitting below him. They moved off and we took that as our cue to head back out and get on the trail again.
We moved back down the trail hearing a group of calling birds and when we arrived at an open spot in the canopy we found a pair of Narina’s Trogons singing and moving out in the open for some great looks as the bird we saw briefly in Mole. Having enjoyed some great looks at these birds we continued back up into the forest where we came across the relentless song of an Olive-green Camaroptera which sadly remained hidden. While we looked for this bird a Brown-cheeked Hornbill sounded off close by for a nice recording and James spotted an Ansorge's Greenbul sitting out on a U shaped vine across two trees. We had been enjoying the antics of several Shining Drongos chasing each other through the canopy when he found it. This was the last Andropadus greenbul on my target list so I was well pleased.
A Yellow-spotted Barbet began to call over our heads and was soon found but the continuous song of a Many-colored Bush-Shrike had us craning skyward again looking for the bird. It wove through the vine tangle above us then crossed over to the other side of the trail and disappeared into thick cover again showing only briefly. A Western Bearded Greenbul kept it company but another target of ours began to sing further up and deep into the bush. We followed the sound and James was soon on it and hitting it with some playback. It sang constantly and was finally glimpsed two or three times at the base of a tree darting from vine to vine. Finally I could make out the rufous sides of a Kemp’s Longbill. As I was recording the song an Olive-green Camaroptera burst into it’s drawn out song. I waited for this to end to capture a recording but then a Yellow-billed Turaco interjected. Finally with all three recorded we moved back out onto the path.
As the trail closed in about us the thick cover made home to a Red-tailed Bristlebill that sang from the cover of the dense jungle next to us. An unidentified raptor moved through the canopy above us and we followed till it was lost and we came out at an open area in the foliage. This time we got onto the singing Olive-green Camaroptera and finally clapped eyes on it moving through the understory. Activity had begun to slow down so we worked our way back. We passed the still calling Congo Serpent-Eagle and stopped to get a recording of several Yellow-spotted Barbets when a White-crested Hornbill flew low across the path in front of us. Slowly we crept up when William and then James began stomping their feet and flew past me shouting “Ants”. I was about to say what about the hornbill when one of the little buggers sank it’s mandibles into the soft flesh of my leg. Having the advantage of longer legs I was soon out pacing my guides and we were soon stripped down to our skivvies in the middle of the trail brushing of the attackers. William said “told you Hornbills love the ants.” Once free of the ants we continued on down the path coming across another Blue-headed Bee-eater and a Shrike Flycatcher calling from well above us. Our drivers were waiting for us and we loaded up and began the long drive back down the hill out of the park. Our last bird came halfway down the hill when a juvenile Eurasian Honey-Buzzard took flight and landed in a tree farther down the trail. We all got some nice looks at this pale juvenile before loading up and heading to the hotel.
After lunch we packed up and loaded up the van for the drive to Accra. We fought traffic and were soon at the airport where we sat outside and did the list one final time. We tallied up numbers but when I came up short of William and James’ totals we had to go back through them again finding ten birds I had not marked to get us to 350 for the trip ( I later revised this when going through the records properly with pictures and recordings). I went over some recordings with the guys before we said farewell at the entrance to the airport.
We had some extra time in the airport before the flight left so enjoyed our last meal in Ghana and ambled through the airport before our flight took off leaving the steamy heat of Ghana for the cooler climes of Tennessee.
Considering we only birded for what was really seven and a half days we racked up and impressive 367 species of which 10 were heard only, though that’s not fair as I didn’t try for bird’s I’d already seen . I found two I had pictures of once home that I hadn’t recorded during the trip. What started off a bit disappointing in Kakum with low numbers, no fault of anyone, rose to a mighty crescendo in Mole and Atewa. We saw some staggering birds and William and James never let one slip by them. Any call was identified and any brief glimpse was called out. Michel kept us on the road ably and we got to most of our spots on time with plenty of time to bird. Not being too adventurous with food we stuck to the chicken and rice most days which was fine. A steady flow of water was always on hand and all our rooms had AC to keep us cool and comfortable all night.
Biggest dips of the trip were African Pygmy Goose, African Finfoot, Grey Parrot, Green Turaco my wife saw and Double-toothed Barbet, one seen flying in Shai Hills but not by me. These are often seen and are in most of the Ghana trip reports. This was made up by the five I did see that were not expected. Black-shouldered Nightjar, White-backed Night-Heron, Rufous-rumped Lark, Ovambo Sparrowhawk and Green-headed Sunbird. You miss five you get five, yin and yang and all that.
I got a 110 new species audio recorded and 101 photographed which adds to the fun.
Photos from this tour can be seen at my Ghana 2010 Flickr album
Recording from this tour can be heard at my Ghana 2010 Xeno-canto set
Birds of the trip:
1. Pel’s Fishing Owl, we had so long and such stunning looks at the bird, not the normal hiding behind the leaf looks but out in the open under the canopy looks where you could see the entire bird. Real priveledge.
2. Yellow-headed Picathartes, this was tough putting it this high but the real reason you come to Ghana is to see this mythical bird but since they have a spot staked out your almost guaranteed it. That said they are ridiculous birds and having seven at eye level as close as ten feet away was amazing.
3. Black-shouldered Nightjar, the Birds of Western Africa has two x’s where Ghana is on the range map so not at all expecting this bird but when I was told it was here I jumped at the chance. I love night birds and recording and seeing this bird so close was magical.
4. Standard-winged Nightjar, I at least felt good about my chances with this bird but flushing one in broad daylight was stunning. I think I recall a group intake of air when this bird flew up. Every eye was wide. A stunning bird and those standards trailing behind it are ridiculous; yes I say that a lot but they were.
5. Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, most of the Kingfishers are pleasantly colored but this beauty amongst the many shades of green from the Kakum canopy walkway was really brilliant, helped by the fact that it flew into the tree above us and started singing to a distant bird.
6. Narina’s Trogon, yes it’s quite common in African in the right places but I was not expecting one in Mole and to see a lovely pair singing in Atewa for the last continent I needed trogon’s in was special.
7. White-spotted Flufftail, quite easy to see for a Flufftail but still we had to work a bit and it’s such a cool bird.
8. Yellow-bellied Hyliota, as it was a lifer for James too that was quite special as he found the bird.
9. Rufous-rumped Lark, as this is quite rare for Ghana and usually only in migration it was neat to find one and its odd habit of spreading its wings whenever it stops to show off its rump was out of the ordinary.
10. A cop out but a tie between the Hornbills and Bee-eaters, such great birds and we hit 90% of my targets.
PELECANIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Quite common around most large bodies of water.
CICONIIFORMES: Ardeidae
Gray Heron Ardea cinerea One at Sakumonoa, plenty in Mole
Purple Heron Ardea purpurea A copule seen in mole
Great Egret Ardea alba Sakumona
Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Several at Sakumona
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia One at Sakumonoa
Western Reef-Heron Egretta gularis Several at Sakumona
Little Egret Egretta garzetta Brimsu Reservoir
Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides A pair at Hans Botel Cottage
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Common
Striated Heron Butorides striata Several seen in Mole
Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Several seen in Mole
White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius leuconotus One spooked from riverine forest in Mole
CICONIIFORMES: Scopidae
Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Several seen in Mole
CICONIIFORMES: Ciconiidae
Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Four seen in Mole
CICONIIFORMES: Threskiornithidae
Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Common around the large water hole in Mole
ANSERIFORMES: Anatidae
White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata A huge flock seen at Sakumona
FALCONIFORMES: Pandionidae
Osprey Pandion haliaetus One at Brimsu
FALCONIFORMES: Accipitridae
European Honey-buzzard Pernis apivorus Sporadic sightings best at Atewa
Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus One on the road from Shai Hills to Accra, another in Mole
Black Kite Milvus migrans Common
Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis One at Kakum, several in Mole
Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus Common
White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Two in Mole
White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Scattered recordings from Mole
Western Banded Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinerascens One seen in Mole
Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Several seen in Mole
Congo Serpent-Eagle Dryotriorchis spectabilis One calling and found at Atewa
Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus Several around Saumona
African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus A couple seen at Kakum and in Mole
Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus Several seen in Mole
Red-chested Goshawk Accipiter toussenelii One seen flying over Kakum
Shikra Accipiter badius Common along the road to Mole and in Mole itself
Ovampo Sparrowhawk Accipiter ovampensis A pair seen on the way back from Mole
Black Goshawk Accipiter melanoleucus A nice low flyover at Atewa
Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis Common in Mole and on the drive in
Red-necked Buzzard Buteo auguralis Common around Kakum, Antwikwaa
Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi Sevearal seen in Mole
Ayres's Hawk-Eagle Aquila ayresii One dark morph at Brimsu
Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis One seen at Shai Hills
Cassin's Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus africanus A lone bird circling over the forest at kakum
FALCONIFORMES: Falconidae
Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus One seen in Accra
Gray Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus One seen at Sakumona, Aboabo and Bobiri
African Hobby Falco cuvierii One over Kumasi and Mole and a pair nesting at Atewa
Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus One seen in Mole
GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae
Forest Francolin Francolinus lathami Heard at Kakum
Ahanta Francolin Francolinus ahantensis One spooked in Kakum and another heard at Atewa
Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus Common in Mole
Stone Partridge Ptilopachus petrosus Five found at Shai Hills and three more seen in Mole
GALLIFORMES: Numididae
Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Large numbers around the main waterhole in Mole
GRUIFORMES: Rallidae
White-spotted Flufftail Sarothrura pulchra Seen at Antwikwaa and heard at Aboabo and Atewa
Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris Seen well in Mole
GRUIFORMES: Otididae
Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster Male seen at Winneba and a female in Mole
CHARADRIIFORMES: Jacanidae
African Jacana Actophilornis africanus One at Hans Botel, Several at Brimsu and in Mole
CHARADRIIFORMES: Recurvirostridae
Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus A couple seen at Sakumona
CHARADRIIFORMES: Burhinidae
Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis Common in Mole at the main water hole, two at Sakumona
Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis One landed in front of us one night in Mole
CHARADRIIFORMES: Glareolidae
Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Several at Sakumona
Rock Pratincole Glareola nuchalis One on a large boulder in the Twifo River
CHARADRIIFORMES: Charadriidae
Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus A pair at Sakumona
Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Several at Sakumona, Winneba and common in Mole
Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola One at Sakumona
Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula One at Sakumona
CHARADRIIFORMES: Scolopacidae
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus One at Sakumona
Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata One at Sakumona
Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis One at Sakumona
Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus One at Brimsu
Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola One at Brimsu
Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos One at Sakumona
Sanderling Calidris alba One at Sakumona
Little Stint Calidris minuta One at Sakumona
CHARADRIIFORMES: Stercorariidae
Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus A couple scoped from the hotel in Accra
CHARADRIIFORMES: Sternidae
Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis One at Sakumona
Royal Tern Sterna maxima Several seen from the hotel in Accra
Common Tern Sterna hirundo One at Sakumona
PTEROCLIFORMES: Pteroclidae
Four-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles quadricinctus Five seen along the road in Mole at dusk
COLUMBIFORMES: Columbidae
Rock Pigeon Columba livia Common in Accra and Kumasi
Afep Pigeon Columba unicincta One seen at Bobiri
Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Seen at Aboabo and in Mole
Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea Common in Mole
Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Common around Accra and Kakum area
Black-billed Wood-Dove Turtur abyssinicus One near Shai Hills and several in Mole
Blue-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur afer Heard often in Kakum and seen at Atwikwaa
Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Several seen in Kakum
Blue-headed Wood-Dove Turtur brehmeri Heard at Antwikwaa and Aboabo
Bruce's Green-Pigeon Treron waalia Several seen in Mole
African Green-Pigeon Treron calva Seen at Antwikwaa and in Mole
PSITTACIFORMES: Psittacidae
Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri A couple seen in Mole
Red-headed Lovebird Agapornis pullarius A pair seen in Mole
Red-fronted Parrot Poicephalus gulielmi Several sightings of flying birds around Kakum
Senegal Parrot Poicephalus senegalus Common around Shai Hills and Mole
CUCULIFORMES: Musophagidae
Yellow-billed Turaco Tauraco macrorhynchus A couple seen in Kakum and heard in Atewa
Violet Turaco Musophaga violacea A pair seen in Mole
Western Plantain-eater Crinifer piscator Common
CUCULIFORMES: Cuculidae
Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius A single bird found at Hans Botel
Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Heard in Bobiri
Black Cuckoo Cuculus clamosus Seen in Mole, heard in Aboabo and Bobiri
Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo Cercococcyx olivinus Heard once in kakum
Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas Seen in Shai Hills and Mole plus heard
African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus One seen in Kakum
Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius One seen on the drive to Mole
Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus One good sighting in Kakum and heard in Kakum/Atewa
Black Coucal Centropus grillii Heard only at Aboabo
Black-throated Coucal Centropus leucogaster Seen once at Bobiri and heard at Antwikwaa/ Aboabo
Blue-headed Coucal Centropus monachus Seen at Brimsu and Atewa
Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis Common plus a dark morph epomidis seen on the way to Mole
STRIGIFORMES: Strigidae
African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis One seen first evening in Mole and several heard
Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli Prolonged views of one bird in Mole
Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum A pair in Mole
CAPRIMULGIFORMES: Caprimulgidae
Black-shouldered Nightjar Caprimulgus nigriscapularis A pair heard at Hans Botel and after playback one circled us
Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma One on the road at night in Mole
Long-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus climacurus One on the road at night in Mole
Standard-winged Nightjar Macrodipteryx longipennis Spooked during the day in Mole
APODIFORMES: Apodidae
Sabine's Spinetail Rhaphidura sabini Several seen in Kakum and Aboabo
Cassin's Spinetail Neafrapus cassini A pair seen in Kakum
African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus Common at Shai Hills and Winneba Planes
Common Swift Apus apus A couple seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum
Little Swift Apus affinis Shai Hills, Black Volta, Mole
TROGONIFORMES: Trogonidae
Narina Trogon Apaloderma narina A lone bird in Mole and a pair at Atewa
CORACIIFORMES: Alcedinidae
Shining-blue Kingfisher Alcedo quadribrachys One bird perched along a river in Mole
Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata Local resident at Hans Botel and a few in Mole
African Pygmy-Kingfisher Ispidina picta Two at Hans Botel one at Antwikwaa
Chocolate-backed Kingfisher Halcyon badia A pair heard and one seen from the canopy in Kakum
Gray-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala Common in Mole
Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis Common on the wires in the Kakum area
Blue-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon malimbica Two seen in Mole
Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Two pairs seen displaying in Mole
Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maximus One at Brimsu
Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Common in the Kakum area
CORACIIFORMES: Meropidae
Black Bee-eater Merops gularis Several at Antwikawaa
Blue-headed Bee-eater Merops muelleri Three at Atewa
Red-throated Bee-eater Merops bulocki Good numbers in Mole
Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Three at a lillypond in Mole
White-throated Bee-eater Merops albicollis Common around the Kakum area
Rosy Bee-eater Merops malimbicus A large flock at Antwikwaa
CORACIIFORMES: Coraciidae
Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinica Two seen in Mole
Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias naevia Two seen in Mole
Blue-bellied Roller Coracias cyanogaster Two near Accra and a few around Atewa
Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus One scoped at the lillypond in Mole
and a flock of 20 hunting at dusk
Blue-throated Roller Eurystomus gularis Two seen in Kakum
CORACIIFORMES: Phoeniculidae
Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Several in Mole
White-headed Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus bollei Two in Aboabo
Forest Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus castaneiceps Two in Aboabo
Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus One in Mole
CORACIIFORMES: Bucerotidae
White-crested Hornbill Tockus albocristatus Two seen one at Bobiri one at Atewa, heard in Kakum
Black Dwarf Hornbill Tockus hartlaubi One seen at Bobiri
Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill Tockus camurus One seen at Bobiri
African Pied Hornbill Tockus fasciatus Common
African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus Common around Mole
Piping Hornbill Ceratogymna fistulator A pair seen at Hans Botel and at Atewa
Brown-cheeked Hornbill Ceratogymna cylindricus One seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum at dusk
Black-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna atrata Several seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum at dusk
Yellow-casqued Hornbill Ceratogymna elata Several seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum at dusk
PICIFORMES: Capitonidae
Naked-faced Barbet Gymnobucco calvus Common in the Kakum area
Bristle-nosed Barbet Gymnobucco peli A few seen in the Kakum area
Speckled Tinkerbird Pogoniulus scolopaceus One at kakum another at Bobiri
Red-rumped Tinkerbird Pogoniulus atroflavus One at Bobiri, one heard at the Picathartes site.
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird Pogoniulus subsulphureus Heard and seen at Kakum
Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus Heard and seen at Shai Hills
Yellow-spotted Barbet Buccanodon duchaillui Seen well at Atewa
Hairy-breasted Barbet Tricholaema hirsuta Seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum
Vieillot's Barbet Lybius vieilloti Several seen in Shai Hills and one in Kumasi
Bearded Barbet Lybius dubius Great looks at several in Mole
Yellow-billed Barbet Trachyphonus purpuratus A pair seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum
PICIFORMES: Indicatoridae
Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator One seen in Mole
Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor One seen in Mole
Least Honeyguide Indicator exilis One seen in Bobiri
Cassin's Honeyguide Prodotiscus insignis One seen at Kakum
PICIFORMES: Picidae
African Piculet Sasia africana One seen at Aboabo
Fine-spotted Woodpecker Campethera punctuligera A pair seen in Mole
Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni One heard in Mole
Little Green Woodpecker Campethera maculosa A pair seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum
Buff-spotted Woodpecker Campethera nivosa One seen at Atewa
Melancholy Woodpecker Dendropicos lugubris A pair seen at Bobiri
Fire-bellied Woodpecker Dendropicos pyrrhogaster One seen in Kakum
Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae One seen in Mole
Brown-backed Woodpecker Dendropicos obsoletus One seen in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Eurylaimidae
Rufous-sided Broadbill Smithornis rufolateralis One seen at the Picathartes site
PASSERIFORMES: Alaudidae
Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea Several heard and seen at Winneba Plains
Rufous-rumped Lark Pinarocorys erythropygia One seen in Mole
Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis Several seen in Mole
Sun Lark Galerida modesta Six seen in Mole after dusk
PASSERIFORMES: Hirundinidae
Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula Two seen at Shai Hills
Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common
Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica Several seen at Sakumona
Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii A few seen around Mole
White-throated Blue Swallow Hirundo nigrita Three seen at Twifo River
Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropis abyssinica Several seen in the north of the country
Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica One seen in Mole
Preuss's Swallow Petrochelidon preussi Three colonies where plenty were seen
Common House-Martin Delichon urbica Several in on flock at Mole
Fanti Sawwing Psalidoprocne obscura Two seen from the canopy walkway in Kakum
PASSERIFORMES: Motacillidae
African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Common in the south
Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava One seen at Sakumona
Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus Four seen at Sakumona
Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis One seen in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Campephagidae
Blue Cuckoo-shrike Coracina azurea Several seen in the Kakum area
Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga phoenicea One seen in Mole
Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga quiscalina A pair seen at Bobiri
PASSERIFORMES: Pycnonotidae
Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus Common
Little Greenbul Andropadus virens Seen at Antwikwaa, Aboabo and Atewa
Little Gray Greenbul Andropadus gracilis Seen at Bobiria and Atewa
Ansorge's Greenbul Andropadus ansorgei One seen well at Atewa
Plain Greenbul Andropadus curvirostris One seen at Kakum
Slender-billed Greenbul Andropadus gracilirostris Several seen in Kakum and Atewa
Yellow-whiskered Bulbul Andropadus latirostris One seen at Atewa
Golden Greenbul Calyptocichla serina One seen at Kakum
Honeyguide Greenbul Baeopogon indicator One at Antwikwaa and one at Bobiri
Simple Leaflove Chlorocichla simplex Several heard and a few seen at Antwikwaa and Atewa
Swamp Palm Bulbul Thescelocichla leucopleura A nice group from the canopy walkway in Kakum
Icterine Greenbul Phyllastrephus icterinus Finally tracked down at Atewa
Red-tailed Bristlebill Bleda syndactyla Brief looks at Bobiri, heard at Atewa
Green-tailed Bristlebill Bleda eximia Heard only on two occasions at Atewa
Gray-headed Bristlebill Bleda canicapilla Great looks at a singing pair in kakum
Western Nicator Nicator chloris Heard more often than seen but three sightings
Red-tailed Greenbul Criniger calurus Several in a mixed flock at Atewa
Western Bearded-Greenbul Criniger barbatus One seen at Bobiri and heard at Atewa
PASSERIFORMES: Turdidae
Finsch's Flycatcher-Thrush Neocossyphus finschii Heard at Kakum, Aboabo and the Picathartes sight
finally seen at Atewa
African Thrush Turdus pelios Seen in Acrra and Kumasi
Fire-crested Alethe Alethe diademata Heard only at the Picathartes site and Bobiri
PASSERIFORMES: Cisticolidae
Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops Several seen in Mole
Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans Well seen at Winneba Plains
Whistling Cisticola Cisticola lateralis One seen singing at Antwikwaa
Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes Seen at Winneba Plains
Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis Seen at Shai Hills
Siffling (Short-winged) Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus Seen at Shai Hills
Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Heard and seen at Sakumona
Black-backed Cisticola Cisticola eximius Seen at Shai Hills
Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Seen at Shai Hills and in Mole
Red-winged Warbler Heliolais erythropterus A pair seen at Winneba Plains
Black-capped Apalis Apalis nigriceps One seen at Atewa
Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida Two in Mole
Sharpe's Apalis Apalis sharpii Very close views of one from the canopy walkway in Kakum
Oriole Warbler Hypergerus atriceps Several seen in Mole
Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura Common in Shai Hills, Antwikwaa and Aboabo plus Bobiri
Yellow-browed Camaroptera Camaroptera superciliaris A couple seen at Antwikwaa
Olive-green Camaroptera Camaroptera chloronota One seen and two heard at Atewa
PASSERIFORMES: Sylviidae
Moustached Grass-Warbler Melocichla mentalis One at Winneba Plains and a couple in Mole
Western Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais opaca One in Mole
Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta Two in Mole
Senegal Eremomela Eremomela pusilla Several in Mole
Rufous-crowned Eremomela Eremomela badiceps One at Aboabo
Green Crombec Sylvietta virens Severeal at Antwikwaa
Kemp's Longbill Macrosphenus kempi One heard singing then found at Atewa
Gray Longbill Macrosphenus concolor Several heard and seen at Kakum, Antwikwaa, Aboabo, Bobiri and Atewa
Green Hylia Hylia prasina Often heard and seen a few times in the kakum area
Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus One seen in Shai Hills
Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix One seen at Atewa Farmbush
Yellow-bellied Hyliota Hyliota flavigaster One seen in Mole
Violet-backed Hyliota Hyliota violacea One at Kakum and another at Aboabo
PASSERIFORMES: Muscicapidae
Northern Black-Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides Several seen in Mole
Fraser's Forest-Flycatcher Fraseria ocreata One at Antwikwaa and a pair at Atewa
Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata One seen in Mole
Ussher's Flycatcher Muscicapa ussheri Several seen in the Kakum area
Swamp Flycatcher Muscicapa aquatica Three seen along a river course in Mole
Dusky-blue Flycatcher Muscicapa comitata One seen at Antwikwaa
Gray-throated Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus griseigularis One at the Picathartes site and one at Atewa Farmbush
Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myioparus plumbeus One at Aboabo
European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca Two seen in Mole
Forest Robin Stiphrornis erythrothorax A nice pair seen at Atewa on heard in Kakum
Snowy-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha niveicapilla Several heard an two seen in Mole
White-crowned Robin-Chat Cossypha albicapilla Two seen along a rivercourse in Mole
Whinchat Saxicola rubetra One seen at Winneba Plains
Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris One seen in Mole
White-fronted Black-Chat Myrmecocichla albifrons A pair seen in Mole
White-crowned Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea coronata Four seen chasing each other around a cliff face in Shai Hills
PASSERIFORMES: Platysteiridae
African Shrike-flycatcher Megabyas flammulatus One at Antwikwaa and another at Atewa
Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher Bias musicus Heard only at Antwikwaa
Brown-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea Seen in Shai Hills, Winneba Plains and Mole plus heard
Chestnut Wattle-eye Platysteira castanea One found at Antwikwaa
Red-cheeked Wattle-eye Platysteira blissetti One pair found at Antwikwaa
Senegal Batis Batis senegalensis A couple seen in Mole
West African Batis Batis occulta A nice pair seen at Atewa
PASSERIFORMES: Monarchidae
Chestnut-capped Flycatcher Erythrocercus mccallii Three seen in a vine tangle in Bobiri
African Blue-Flycatcher Elminia longicauda One seen first day in mole and another at the river
Blue-headed Crested-Flycatcher Trochocercus nitens One seen at Antwikwaa
Red-bellied Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer Several seen in the Kakum area
African Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Several seen in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Picathartidae
Yellow-headed Picathartes Picathartes gymnocephalus Seven seen at the Picathartes sight
PASSERIFORMES: Timaliidae
Blackcap Babbler Turdoides reinwardtii Several noisy groups found one in Shai Hills a couple in Mole
Brown Babbler Turdoides plebejus Two in Accra and several in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Paridae
White-shouldered Black-Tit Melaniparus guineensis Several at Shai Hills
PASSERIFORMES: Certhiidae
Spotted Creeper Salpornis spilonotus One located and radioed to us from another
group and found in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Remizidae
Tit-hylia Pholidornis rushiae Three at Antwikwaa
PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae
Fraser's Sunbird Deleornis fraseri Several heard and movement seen but only
one good look in the Kakum area
Little Green Sunbird Anthreptes seimundi Good looks at Antwikwaa
Green Sunbird Anthreptes rectirostris Seen at Antwikwaa and Bobiri
Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris Several seen around Kakum
Pygmy Sunbird Hedydipna platura One male seen in Mole
Green-headed Sunbird Cyanomitra verticalis A lone male seen along the river at Mole
Blue-throated Brown Sunbird Cyanomitra cyanolaema Several seen around the kakum area
Western Olive Sunbird Cyanomitra obscura Seen at Antwikwaa and Atewa
Buff-throated Sunbird Chalcomitra adelberti Seen in the Kakum area and one in the hotel grounds in Kumasi
Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis One seen well in Mole
Olive-bellied Sunbird Cinnyris chloropygius One at Kakum
Tiny Sunbird Cinnyris minullus One at Bobiri
Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus Several seen in Mole
Splendid Sunbird Cinnyris coccinigaster A pair chasing each other around at Shai Hills
Johanna's Sunbird Cinnyris johannae One seen at Atewa Farmbush
Superb Sunbird Cinnyris superbus A couple found at Bobiri
Copper Sunbird Cinnyris cupreus Several seen around Shai Hills
PASSERIFORMES: Zosteropidae
African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis One seen at Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Oriolidae
African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus Several heard and seen around Mole
Western Black-headed Oriole Oriolus brachyrhynchus Several heard and seen at Kakum, Antwikwaa,
Aboabo, Bobiri and Atewa
Black-winged Oriole Oriolus nigripennis Several heard and seen at Kakum, Antwikwaa,
Aboabo, Bobiri and Atewa
PASSERIFORMES: Laniidae
Common Fiscal Lanius collaris Common
Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator One seen on the drive back from Mole
Yellow-billed Shrike Corvinella corvina Several seen around Accra
PASSERIFORMES: Malaconotidae
Brubru Nilaus afer One seen well in Mole
Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis Several seen in Shai Hills and Mole
Sabine's Puffback Dryoscopus sabini Two seen in the Kakum area
Marsh Tchagra Tchagra minuta Great views of a female at Winneba Plains
Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala Several seen and heard at Winneba Plains
Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Heard only at Atewa Farmbush
Yellow-crowned Gonolek Laniarius barbarus Several heard and seen at Shai Hills, Winneba and Mole
Sulphur-breasted Bushshrike Telophorus sulfureopectus A pair seen well at Winneba Plains
Many-colored Bushshrike Telophorus multicolor One seen in the canopy of Atewa
Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti A nice calling bird seen well at Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Prionopidae
White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus A group of four plumatus subspecies seen in Mole
Red-billed Helmetshrike Prionops caniceps Two groups of four or five seen in Kakum and at
the Picathartes site
PASSERIFORMES: Dicruridae
Square-tailed Drongo Dicrurus ludwigii Two seen really close in the river forest in Mole
Shining Drongo Dicrurus atripennis Several pairs seen well at Atewa
Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Several seen around Mole
Velvet-mantled Drongo Dicrurus modestus Several seen around the kakum area
PASSERIFORMES: Corvidae
Piapiac Ptilostomus afer A pair seen on the way to Shai Hills
Pied Crow Corvus albus Common, I mean really common! Get used to "no, just a Pied Crow"
PASSERIFORMES: Sturnidae
Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus One seen in Mole
Splendid Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis splendidus A couple seen at Aboabo and Bobiri
Purple Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpureus Sporadic sightings around Shai Hills and Mole
Long-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis caudatus Some great looks at several birds in Mole
Copper-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis cupreocauda A nice pair at Aboabo and again at Bobiri and Atewa
Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster A nice pair in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Buphagidae
Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Three on the back of a Roan Antelope in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Ploceidae
Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser superciliosus Several seen around Mole
Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus A couple of sighings in Mole
Black-necked Weaver Ploceus nigricollis Seen at Antwikwaa and Bobiri
Orange Weaver Ploceus aurantius A nice colony at Hans Botel Cottage
Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus A huge colony at Hans Botel Cottage
Vieillot's Weaver Ploceus nigerrimus castaneofuscus subspecies seen well at the colony at Hans Botel
Yellow-mantled Weaver Ploceus tricolor Several seen in the Kakum area
Maxwell's Black Weaver Ploceus albinucha Seen well at Antwikwaa
Preuss's Golden-backed Weaver Ploceus preussi A single bird seen in a mistletoe at Bobiri
Red-vented Malimbe Malimbus scutatus A few seen at Kakum and Antwikwaa
Gray's Malimbe Malimbus nitens One seen well at Atewa
Crested Malimbe Malimbus malimbicus A couple seen at Antwikwaa, Aboabo, Bobiri and Atewa
Red-headed Malimbe Malimbus rubricollis Seen at Aboabo
Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps A couple seen in Mole
Red-headed Quelea Quelea erythrops Four or five seen together at Antwikwaa
Black-winged Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus Several seen together in Mole
Yellow-mantled Widowbird Euplectes macrourus A couple seen in Kakum and a larger group around Mole
Grosbeak Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons Three groups of birds flying ove Brimsu
PASSERIFORMES: Estrildidae
White-breasted Negrofinch Nigrita fusconota A great scope view of one at Antwikwaa
Chestnut-breasted Negrofinch Nigrita bicolor Seen at Aboabo and in Atewa
Gray-headed Negrofinch Nigrita canicapilla Several seen at Kakum, Antwikwaa, Aboabo and Atewa
Western Bluebill Spermophaga haematina A pair seen in Atewa Farmbush
Bar-breasted Firefinch Lagonosticta rufopicta Several seen around the lodge at Hans Botel and plenty in Mole
Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala One seen drinking at the rivers edge in Mole
Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus Several seen in Mole
Lavender Waxbill Estrilda caerulescens One seen first morning in Mole
Orange-cheeked Waxbill Estrilda melpoda Quite a few sightings in Mole
Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus Common at Antwikwaa and Atewa Farmbush
Black-and-white Mannikin Spermestes bicolor Seen well at Atewa Farmbush
PASSERIFORMES: Emberizidae
Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi A nice bird seen in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Fringillidae
Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus Recorded twice in Mole
PASSERIFORMES: Passeridae
Northern Gray-headed Sparrow Passer griseus Common in human habitation
Bush Petronia Petronia dentata A couple seen in Mole