Following a trip to Antarctica, my wife and I took a trip to Southern Patagonia in an attempt to find the specialties of that area. Neither of us had previously been to the area. We visited El Calafate, El Chalten and the Strobel Plateau area. Targets for this trip included such specialties as Patagonia Tinamou, Hooded Grebe, Austral Rail, and Magellanic Plover. We additionally birded from Ushuaia to Rio Grande (Tierra del Fuego) prior to going to Antarctica (See other trip report for information on that area).
These locations can easily be done without a guide/tour. The sites are accessible by a 2 wheel drive car and the driving directions are relatively easily.
Primary Locations Los Glaciares National Park (both El Chalten and Perito Moreno Glacier), El Calafate, Strobel Plateau, and Estancia La Angostura
Itinerary (Although all the specialties can be seen with only three nights, our itinerary was somewhat rushed and we would suggest one additional night)
We arrived at the El Calafate Airport on December 10, 2011.
December 10: Night in El Calafate
December 11: Night at Estancia La Angostura
December 12: Night in El Chalten
We departed El Calafate Airport on the afternoon of December 13, 2011.
Birds and Reference material: For a field guide, we used the Jaramillo, Birds of Chile, copyright 2003. Illustrations and descriptions are good. Obviously, there are no maps for Argentina but the Chile maps allow extrapolation to areas in Argentina.
We downloaded sounds for target species to our MP3 player from Xeno Canto
Airport We flew into and out of El Calafate Airport (FTE). This is the major airport of the area. The airport is about 20 Km east of the actual town of El Calafate. Taxi to El Calafate was 100 Pesos (US $23) each way.
Guides We were self guided. We contacted Santiago Imberti who guides for Seriema Nature Tours. We initially discussed his guiding us but once he realized that he was already booked for our dates, he was not helpful with giving us any information. I guess that is understandable for professional guides. We also contacted Seriema Nature Tours who sent us their itinerary but the price was outside what we wanted and they were not flexible with our plans.
Timing of the trip Late spring/summer (November – January) is the time to go. Hooded Grebes are only on the Strobel Plateau at this time. Presumably, they winter in the ocean.
Transportation Driving is on the right side of the road and the vehicles have the steering wheel on the left side of the car (standard USA driving). Driving was relatively easy although highway 40 was an adventure and very slow due to construction between Tres Lagos and the Strobel Plateau.
We rented a car from Hertz Rental Car at the airport. There is a 12% additional cost to rent at the airport (no extra charge if you rent from a location actually in El Calafate). We rented a 2 wheel drive and never needed a 4 wheel drive anywhere we drove. We were concerned that we would need a 4 wheel drive for the Strobel Plateau but 2 wheel drive is ok if you drive carefully/slowly.
The road from El Calafate to El Chalten (215 Km) is paved the entire way. The road from El Calafate to Estancia La Angostura (~320Km) is paved to Tres Lagos (El Calafate to Tres Lagos is 158Km). From Tres Lagos, north, the road is currently under construction (they are paving it). This construction resulted in a much slower drive than expected (30-40 Km/hour). Thus, in a few years, the road will be paved and it will be a much easier drive. For now, it is not good.
Gas ranged from 4.20 Pesos/liter in El Calafate to 7.00 Pesos/liter in El Chalten. Note that gasoline can be a serious issue in this part of Argentina as it is quite remote once you leave El Calafate. There is a gas station in Tres Lagos (near the intersection of Hwy 40 and Hwy 31 just to the west of the actual town of Tres Lagos). This gas station had NO gas on both days that we stopped (December 11 and December 12). I asked when they were expecting to have gas and they had no idea. Fortunately, we had filled the tank up before we left El Calafate. This allowed us to drive to the Strobel Plateau and then to Estancia La Angostura. Fortunately, we were able to buy gas at Estancia La Angostura from the owners (not sure if this is always allowed). If not, we would have to drive to Gobernador Gregores and hope they had gas there. Also, we were informed that El Chalten frequently runs out of gas. So be aware that gas is a potential problem and plan accordingly.
Maps I printed out all the maps that I needed from Google Maps before I left. Driving directions are relatively straightforward.
Language The official language is Spanish. English was spoken at most places in El Calafate (the town is primarily built on tourism). At Estancia La Angostura, the owner’s wife spoke English.
Money Currency is the Argentine Peso. US $ were accepted the few places we tried. Bills of US $20 or less should be accepted at all places with change provided in Argentina Pesos.
Lodging:
December 10: Design Suites Calafate Design Suites Calafate http://www.designsuites.com/en/
This is a fancy hotel that overlooks the lake. It is expensive but we got a very good rate so we splurged. From Google Maps, I thought it would be easy access from the hotel to the shoreline but it was not straightforward. There are plenty of hotels in El Calafate that allow easier access to the shoreline.
December 11: Estancia La Angostura Estancia La Angostura http://estancialaangostura.com.ar/laEstancia.php
This is the place to stay when going to Strobel Plateau. It was US $100/night which included breakfast for two. They also have a spot for camping if you want something cheaper. This is the site for Austral Rail and they can provide up to date information for the location of Hooded Grebes. I would consider this a must stop if going to the area.
Phone: 54-2962-491501
estancialaangostura@yahoo.com
December 12: Hosteria El Pilar Hosteria El Pilar http://www.hosteriaelpilar.com.ar/
This is a nice but expensive location about 17Km north of El Chalten. I thought that it would provide access to good forest but the forest around the location was not that good. There are plenty of places to stay in El Chalten and I would recommend staying there. There is also camping about 12Km north of El Chalten.
Directions and information on birding sites:
I would strongly recommend reviewing the excellent trip report by Peter Collaerts Trip Report with Maps
(http://www.birdtours.co.uk/tripreports/argentina/argentina-15/argentina-dec-06.htm) It covers much of southern Argentina and includes maps of the areas described below.
Perito Moreno Glacier (Los Glaciares National Park, southern section): It is about 75Km west of El Calafate on Hwy 11. Road signs are present so it was quite easy. The entrance fee was 100 Argentina Pesos PER PERSON. There is good forest at the end of the road (at the glacier). Magellanic Woodpecker and Magellanic Tapaculo are seen there, but we missed both. The lake by the glacier is a regular location for Spectacled Duck and we saw two.
El Calafate – This town is primarily focused on tourism and is 20Km west of the airport on Hwy 11. It is on the south shore of Lago Argentino. The primary birding location is the marsh/shore on the north side of town. The area is full of shorebirds, ducks, flamingos, gulls, etc. Access the road (Paseo de La Costanera) that travels along the lake shore. It is easily accessible from the town’s mainstreet (simply go north until you get to the lake). Bird the entire way around Paseo de La Costanera (around the west side until you see a small island offshore). As you go east on Paseo de La Costanera, you will have to cross the small river that goes through town and ultimately find the road named Calle 200. There are a couple small lakes along Calle 200 and a nature reserve. This entire area can be well viewed on Google Maps.
El Chalten (Los Glaciares National Park, northern section) – This town primarily attracts hikers that want to hike Mount Fitz Roy. There are some birding locations as outlined in the trip report by Peter Collaerts. Note that north is at the bottom of the map drawn in his report. We birded the area about 9Km north of El Chalten where Collaerts had Black-throated Huet-Huet, Magellanic Woodpecker, Andean Parakeet and Magellanic Tapaculo. We were only successful in finding Andean Parakeet and Magellanic Tapaculo in these woods. Also, on the road to El Chalten (Hwy 23), there is a large marsh on the north side of the road (this is about 45Km east of El Chalten). The area has plenty of ducks and looked good for Austral Rail. We played Austral Rail tape from the road but had no response. I think if you could get permission from the estancia owner to walk on the property then you might have more success (at least you would get access to better rail habitat).
Strobel Plateau – This is the traditional location for Hooded Grebe. There are additional good birds such as Patagonia Tinamou, Tawny-throated Dotterel, Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, Short-billed Miner, Cinnamon bellied Ground-Tyrant and Chocolate-vented Tyrant. See the map from the trip report by Peter Collaerts as it is very helpful. The area is easily accessed and can be driven in a 2 wheel drive. You must drive slow (<20Km/hour) in some areas because there are large rocks in the road that could damage the underside of the car if you drive too fast. From the intersection of Hwy 40 and Hwy 29, take Hwy 29 west towards Lago Cardiel (if you go east on Hwy 29, you would be going to Gobernador Gregores). In less than 4Km from this intersection, there is a road that goes right (north) with a sign for Estancia Laguna Verde. Take this dirt road and it leads you up the Strobel Plateau. We initially followed the directions from the Peter Collaerts and went about 35Km on this road and started looking for the Hooded Grebes in the ponds on either side of the road from here. Despite walking extensively from pond to pond, we did not see any Hooded Grebes in these ponds. Thus, we left (thinking we had missed the Hooded Grebes and would need to come back the following day and try again) and drove to Estancia La Angostura. At Estancia La Angostura, the owner’s wife (who speaks English) said she had seen Hooded Grebes three days prior and the Seriema Nature Tours group had seen them the day before we arrived. She gave us exact details to find the large lagoon where we had 14 Hooded Grebes (we were not anywhere close to this location). Apparently, the grebes do move about so current information is very helpful. I would strongly suggest staying at Estancia La Angostura so that you can get up to date information on the location of the Hooded Grebes.
Estancia La Angostura – This working estancia also caters to tourists. They are especially focused on motorcyclists and naturalists (birders). The estancia is about 40 Km north of the intersection of Hwy 40 and Hwy 29. Go north on Hwy 40 from this intersection and you will see the right turn in ~36Km. There is a large white sign that identifies the correct turn. When you make the turn, you will follow this dirt road for about 4Km to the estancia. The estancia is on the river and there is a large marsh adjacent to the houses. Austral Rail is located in the marsh and the wife’s owner can provide up to date location information. They also have a stakeout for the Magellanic subspecies of Great Horned Owl (which is split by many). They will also provide dinner (about US $25) and lunch if needed.
Weather & Clothing It was surprisingly warmer (up to 25 degrees Celsius at the Strobel Plateau) than expected. It was very windy (especially in the afternoon) which is normal. It gets daylight early. Plan to be out in the field by 5:30am (earlier if you are searching for owls).
Advice I would advise at least three nights in the area. A four night stay would allow additional flexibility if there are any problems. My strategy would be as follows:
Day 1: Arrive around noon at El Calafate and get the rental car and drive to El Calafate and bird the marsh area north of town. Spend the night in El Calafate.
Day 2: Early morning to the Glacier and bird the wooded area around the Glacier. After lunch, drive north to Estancia La Angostura (perhaps 5 hours depending on road conditions). Look for Austral Rail and Magellanic Owl in the afternoon/evening. Get information on Hooded Grebe from the Estancia. Night at the Estancia.
Day 3: Early morning for the rail if missed. Drive to Strobel Plateau and find the Hooded Grebe. Drive to El Chalten after successfully birding Strobel Plateau.
Day 4: Bird El Chalten area. In the afternoon, drive to El Calafate (for a flight or one additional night in El Calafate if needed).
Note that many simply continue to drive on to Rio Gallegos from here (or come from Rio Gallegos).
El Calafate area
Black-necked Swan
Coscoroba Swan
Upland Goose
Crested Duck
Chiloe Wigeon
Red Shoveler
Yellow-billed Pintail
Great Grebe
Chilean Flamingo
Black-faced Ibis
Cinereous Harrier
Variable Hawk
Southern Caracara
Chimango Caracara
American Kestrel
Red-gartered Coot
Southern Lapwing
Two-banded Plover
Tawny-throated Dotterel
Magellanic Plover – we had lots of trouble with this species. Ultimately, we found one bird by driving along the spit that extends east from Paseo de la Constanera (near the small island). We drove basically as far east along this spit/dike and parked. We then continued to walk on the spit (along the lake side) until we found one. This is a regular site for the species and most people see several bird and see it easily. It took us nearly 4 hours to find one. Local information would likely be helpful.
Greater Yellowlegs
Lesser Yellowlegs
White-rumped Sandpiper
Baird's Sandpiper
South American Snipe
Wilson's Phalarope
Least Seedsnipe
Brown-hooded Gull
Kelp Gull
South American Tern
Rock Pigeon
Eared Dove
White-crested Elaenia
Austral Negrito
Spectacled Tyrant
Fire-eyed Diucon
Chilean Swallow
House Wren
Austral Thrush
Patagonian Mockingbird
Common Diuca-Finch
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Austral Blackbird
Black-chinned Siskin
House Sparrow
Los Glaciares National Park (Perito Moreno Glacier and El Chalten)
Andean Condor – several around El Chalten area
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle – one at El Chalten
Variable Hawk
Southern Caracara
Chimango Caracara
Austral Parakeet – small forest about 9km north of El Chalten as described in the trip report by Peter Collaerts (this is area C in his report). Approximately 9Km north from El Chalten, there is a small forest with cliffs on the left (west) side of the road. There is a small parking area. Simply park there and walk back in the forest. There is a small stream that comes down the gully.
Rufous-legged Owl – one spontaneously calling at 0300
Striped Woodpecker – forest about 9Km north of El Chalten
Chilean Flicker – forest about 9Km north of El Chalten
Common Miner
Thorn-tailed Rayadito
White-throated Treerunner
Magellanic Tapaculo – wooded area approximately 9Km north of El Chalten, in the gully
Tufted Tit-Tyrant
White-crested Elaenia
White-browed Ground-Tyrant
Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant
Great Shrike-Tyrant – wooded area approximately 9Km north of El Chalten
Fire-eyed Diucon
Rufous-tailed Plantcutter
Chilean Swallow
House Wren
Austral Thrush
Patagonian Sierra-Finch
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch
Greater Yellow-Finch
Rufous-collared Sparrow
Black-chinned Siskin
Strobel Plateau
Lesser Rhea – several seen on the plateau. Also several seen on the drive between Tres Lagos and Estancia La Angostura
Patagonian Tinamou – two birds about 8KM up the Strobel Plateau Road
Black-necked Swan
Coscoroba Swan
Upland Goose
Flying Steamer-Duck
Crested Duck
Chiloe Wigeon
Red Shoveler
Ruddy Duck
Lake Duck
Silvery Grebe – in same lagoon as the Hooded Grebes
Hooded Grebe – the specialty of the area. We were given explicit directions by the owner of the Estancia La Angostura. Following these directions, we successfully saw 14. The lagoon was about 6 Km off the Strobel Plateau Road. This turn was about 1Km beyond the small estancia (which is about 9Km along the Strobel Plateau Road).
Variable Hawk
Aplomado Falcon
Red-gartered Coot
Two-banded Plover – adults and young on the shoreline of the Hooded Grebe lagoon.
Tawny-throated Dotterel – many adults and one young seen
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe – three birds around Km 35 on the Strobel Plateau road
Least Seedsnipe – very common
Kelp Gull
Common Miner
Short-billed Miner – scrub near the small estancia (9Km on the Strobel Plateau Road
Scale-throated Earthcreeper
Sharp-billed Canastero – scrub near the small estancia (9Km on the Strobel Plateau Road
Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant
Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant
Chocolate-vented Tyrant
Patagonian Mockingbird
Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch– scrub near the small estancia (9Km on the Strobel Plateau Road
Mourning Sierra-Finch – scrub near the small estancia (9Km on the Strobel Plateau Road
Estancia La Angostura
Upland Goose
Chiloe Wigeon
Yellow-billed Pintail
Silver Teal
Red Shoveler
Chilean Flamingo
Black-faced Ibis
Turkey Vulture
Cinereous Harrier
Chimango Caracara
Austral Rail – a specialty of the area. Ask the owner’s wife where the best place to see it is. We had it at the entrance gate.
Red-gartered Coot
White-winged Coot
Southern Lapwing
Brown-hooded Gull
Kelp Gull
Eared Dove
Magellanic Great Horned Owl – another specialty of the area. The owner’s wife told us where to look and we successfully got it.
Wren-like Rushbird
Chocolate-vented Tyrant
Austral Negrito
Spectacled Tyrant
Yellow-winged Blackbird
House Sparrow
Long-tailed Meadowlark
Feel free to contact me with any questions
Jim Holmes
Sacramento, CA
jfholmes@ucdavis.edu