For our late summer holiday this year we decided on north Spain. I had visited Asturias in March 2010 with a friend and was very impressed with the scenery and was keen to return with Dora. In addition I had obtained details of an excellent pelagic trip that is done in late summer each year from Galicia. The holiday aimed to combine these two objectives. I contacted the Galician Ornithological Society to get details of the pelagic. I got information on some of the other birding sites from “Where to watch Birds: Northern and Eastern Spain; Rebane and Garcia”. We booked flights with Easyjet from Stanstead to Asturias and most accommodation via booking.com. Finally we used Holiday Autos to book a car with Atesa, which we collected at Asturias Airport.
24th August. Arrived 1600 hours local time at Asturias and collected the car without any hitches. Headed inland to San Martin in the Teverga valley, where we checked into a small apartment in a hillside village called Carrea. After settling in I walked up through the fields and woodlands above the village. The berry rich hedgerows contained a good variety of local species such as Wren, Blackcap, Robin, Blackbird, Song Thrush, Chaffinch, Greenfinch and Bullfinch. The woodland edge contained Tree Pipit, Wood Pigeon and Jay, whilst feeding in the small fields were at least 3 Green Woodpecker.
25th August. Drove up the valley and stopped at the entrance to a deep limestone gorge just south of Fresneu. Wallcreepers had nested here earlier in the summer, but there were no sign of them, just lots of Crag Martins, House Martins and a few noisy Carrion Crow. Continued up the valley to Puerto de Ventana at 1587m and parked at the pass before walking east along a broad track. In the open ground by the car park were small groups of Water Pipit, a family of Black Redstart, a few Linnet, some Serin, a Northern Wheatear and a Whinchat. As we walked along, the hillside became scrub covered. Birds were difficult to see here bar Stonechat and Dunnock. In the more wooded sections we found mixed flocks containing Coal Tit, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Crested Tit, Nuthatch, Treecreeper and Willow Warblers. In more open bushy areas found Mistle Thrush, Bullfinch and two juvenile Cirl Bunting. There was quite a bit of raptor activity overhead with Common Kestrel, Common Buzzard, at least nine Griffon Vultures, anEgyptian Vulture, a Booted Eagle as well as two Ravens. Had a nice walk, though it was quite cool with a bracing wind.
Returned back down to Carrea in late afternoon. I took another walk through the woods above the village. A mixed flock of birds included Crested Tit, Long-tailed Tit,Iberian Chiffchaff and Firecrest. In the evening we went down to San Martin for a meal and were surprised to see a ring tail Hen Harrier come through the town upsetting the local White Wagtails and Barn Swallows.
26th August. Chirping House Sparrows woke us up. A pre breakfast walk above the village found Great Spotted Woodpecker, Marsh Tit and several Tree Pipits. Once packed, we headed back down towards the coast and then followed the E70/N635 west. It alternates between new fast motorway sections and the more congested old road. We cut off on the N642 towards Foz. First stop was overlooking the Foz Ria. Out on the mudflats were lots of Curlew, a few Common Redshanks and Dunlin, some Greenshank, an immature Bar-tailed Godwit, several Little Egrets and perched on a tree stump an Osprey. In the surrounding fields found a small group of Starlings.
Stopped just before Xove for a lunch break and headed down to Lago Bay. Despite some heavy showers I had a look round the bay. On the shore was a group of 25 Ringed Plover, 20 Sanderling and 15 Dunlin. Off shore were 3 Common Scoter, some Cormorants and a couple of Shags. Lots of gulls around the fish farm, were mainly Black-headed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull and some Yellow-legged Gulls. The small pools between the fish farm and the shore held Little Grebes, Moorhen, Coot and a preening Water Rail, as well as a fishing Little Tern.
Continued west and just passed O Barqueiro turned off following the signs to Estacia de Bares. At Vila de Vares took the first left, signed to Faro de Bares. This took us down towards the lighthouse. Drove on past the lighthouse and some ruins on the cliff side till we reached a small car park. Followed the small path down to a stone building above the shore. This is the Estacia de Bares sea watching point on the most northerly headland in Galicia. Met up with Dani Lopez Velasco and friends and sea watched for a couple of hours. A strong SW wind was blowing which made for a good seabird movement with lots of Cory’s Shearwater and Manx Shearwater moving west with Gannets, a couple of Arctic Skua and a nice adult Long-tailed Skua. Left the guys before the main skua movement started, to head for our hotel in Carino.
27th August. I got up early to return to Estacia de Bares, arriving just after first light. It was a bright sunny day and the wind had dropped quite a bit. As yesterday afternoon lots of Cory’s and Manx Shearwater moving west, along with quite a few Sooty Shearwaters. Good numbers of Sandwich Terns also moving west along with at least seven adult Pomarine Skuas and a few Arctic Skuas. Had a Grey Phalarope fly by and pitch down onto the sea off the point.
Had to leave the guys again to go back to the hotel to collect Dora. In the afternoon we went out to the lighthouse north of Carino at Cabo Ortegal. Here there were masses of Yellow-legged Gulls on the offshore stacks. Manx and Cory’s Shearwaters were still moving west, along with a couple of Guillemots. Got nice views of a pair of Peregrine circling the lighthouse car park.
A brief evening walk round the bay at Carino revealed a couple of Oystercatcher and a juvenile Black-tailed Godwit on the shore and Collared Doves in the town.
28th August. A very early start as I got up at 0445. The pelagic, that I had booked on, that was being organised by José Miguel Alonso Pumar from Carino had been cancelled, as the local council had mothballed the boat due to financial problems. Danni and his friends had managed to arrange an alternative trip from Malpica west of A Coruna, but this meant a drive of over 150km that took just over two hours.
I arrived at the harbour at Malpica at 0715 as the last stragglers from the previous evenings festival were still weaving their way home and met up with the guys. Some chum was made up from litres of cooking oil, mashed up rotten fish and bread crumbs. This, plus three trays of sardines, and some frozen chum were taken on board. It was a good day with broken cloud cover and a light wind, though there was still a bit of a swell on the sea. We headed straight out from the harbour passing a few Manx and Cory’s Shearwaters. We sailed out about 15 miles offshore to some known fishing grounds. As we approached the area we started throwing out a trail of breadcrumbs to attract gulls and a few started to follow. As we reached the area the boat stopped and a lump of frozen fish and guts was thrown overboard from a pail. As it floated it immediately attracted a superb summer plumage adult Sabine’s Gull. Quickly other birds started to arrive including our first Great Shearwater then a Wilson’s Petrel as more chum was poured out. The boat started to circle the chum as more and more birds arrived. We had soon built up an impressive flock of up to 100 Sabine’s Gulls, all adults. Great Shearwaters attacked the ice block, pulling off bits of fish. We were continually surrounded by 20 or more at a time, some coming very close. They were joined by a couple of Sooty Shearwaters, some Cory’s and later by a Balearic Shearwater. The oil slick was meanwhile attracting lots of petrels up to 15 Wilson’s and 25 Storm Petrels could be seen at any one time next to the boat. In all we reckoned we possibly had over 70 Wilson’s Petrels during the trip. As things quietened down more food was thrown out and more birds attracted. These included several Common Terns, two Arctic Terns and a Black Tern. Skuas also came in, including a handful of Great Skuas, a Pomarine Skua, several Arctic Skua and 30+ Long-tailed Skua including a superb adult right above the boat. The biggest cry of delight came when a Fulmar arrived, not a common bird in these waters. Stayed with the birds for over two hours getting good close views of everything and the photographers getting hundreds of shots.
For photos see http://birdingspain.blogspot.com/2011/08/pelagicas-por-galicia.html
Eventually headed back to port with a heap of Lesser Black-backed Gulls in tow and a handful of Great Shearwaters. It had been an amazing experience and it must be the best pelagic trip in Western Europe. We got back to Malpica about 1400 said our goodbyes and then went on our return journeys. The trip cost 60 Euros, money well spent.
29th August. We had come to Galicia for the pelagic trip so today we were to travel back east to Asturias. Had a quick stop overlooking the mud flats in the Ria de Santa Maria de Ortigueira. Lots of Mallard with Curlew, Grey Heron, Little Egret and a few Oystercatcher and Greenshank.
Drove on west along the E70/N634/A8 passing Arvilles, Gijon and Villaviciosa. Then took the 260 to Ariondas, which took us up over the Sueve Mountains. We stopped at Mirador del Fita, but unfortunately the hills were covered in low cloud and visibility was very poor. I took a short walk through the pines finding quite a few Pied Flycatchers, Willow Warblers (grounded migrants?) and a Tree Creeper with the Coal and Blue Tits. Continued on our way to Canga de Onis, our base for the next two nights. Our balcony in Hotel Canga Los Acebos overlooked the river where we watched White and Grey Wagtails, Common Kingfisher, Dipper and families of Moorhens. As the weather was still a bit gloomy we went to visit the impressive religious complex at Covadonga.
30th August. A much brighter sunnier day as we headed into the north edge of the Picos de Europa national park. Drove east along the 114 dropping down into a steep valley that took us to Las Arenas. From here followed the signs for Sotres, passing through another deep spectacular limestone gorge. Climbed out of the gorge and at about a km before Sotres stopped and went down a track signed to Urriellu. At the foot of the hill we left the car and then walked up the track which zig zagged up the hillside. Only birds seen were a few Willow Warblers and a Spotted Flycatcher in the hillside bushes. We came up to a high valley with beech woodland on the south side. Citril Finch had been reported from here during June. Wandered up and down the tracks through the woods and hay fields. Saw small groups of Chaffinch, Bullfinch, Tree Pipit, lots of Pied Flycatcher, a few Chiffchaff and a Marsh Tit, but unfortunately no citril finches. Then checked out the more open areas on the other side of the valley round the village. Found Black Redstarts, Stonechats, Linnets, a couple of Common Whitethroats and saw some Red-billed Choughs. Overhead had 40+ Griffon Vultures, plus House and Crag Martins.
Walked back down to the car and drove up into and through Sotres to another large beechwood where citril finches had also been seen. Found a mixed flock of Linnet, Serin with a Goldfinch and a juvenile Cirl Bunting but not much else. The scenery however around this area was quite spectacular.
31st August. Were on the move again heading south along the N625 through the Beyos gorge, where we had lots of roadside White and Grey Wagtails and Pied Flycatchers. Eventually joined the 621 and headed east. Just past Portilla de la Rena stopped by a roadside potato field full of weeds. There was a good flock of Serin in the field, with a couple of Yellowhammer. The bushes along an adjacent stream held Long-tailed Tit, Chiffchaff and more Pied Flycatcher.
The road then started to rise up towards Puerto de San Glorio. In an area of tall grasses by the road had a large flock of Linnet with a few Whinchat, Tree Pipit and at least 4 Egyptian Vultures overhead. At the pass checked out a pine wood where heard Common Crossbill and also had a Sparrowhawk and a nice hovering Short-toed Eagle. Drove along to Mirador de Llesba to get spectacular views over the Picos. In the scrub were lots of Stonechats, a few Common Whitethroats, and many Black Redstarts in the surrounding rockier bits.
Continued on to Potes and to Hotel La Cabana where we were to spend our final two nights. In the evening walked down to Potes for a meal. Lots of Barn Swallows overhead and our first Common Swift.
1st September. Today we were heading for the high tops of the Picos. Drove up to Fuente De to the cable car station. Arriving at 1000 the car park was empty. Found a group of 20+ Red-billed Choughs feeding on the edge of the settlement. Got on a fairly empty cable car for the spectacular climb up to the top station at 1823m. When we got out we entered a different world. The high tops above us were covered in cloud and there was a strong bitingly cold wind. It was freezing!
Walked up the track from the top station seeing a few Northern Wheatears. Then took the first fork on the left, which went along by a scree slope below a huge mist covered cliff, till we reached another fork where a track doubled back to the left up a hill. The low cliff above the fork in the track is a reliable wallcreeper site. We waited and watched but saw nothing. As it was so cold and had started raining we walked up the track to warm up. As we walked along we found a couple of Alpine Accentors and a small group of Linnets. Walked back down and came across four Alpine Choughs, which we attracted closer by throwing bits of bread. Waited again by the cliff and eventually saw a Wallcreeper fly down from the top and land in the scree. It immediately disappeared and despite waiting and watching we never saw it again.
We returned to the original fork in the track and walked over the coll and down into a lush green valley. Down here we were out of the wind and it was beginning to clear up. Quite a few Water Pipits, Black Redstarts and Northern Wheatears, plus some Chamois in the screes.
Headed back up the hill, checked out the wallcreeper site again – to no avail and headed back to the top station, where there was a flock of c20 Alpine Chough. Enroute we got close views of a group of three and one of six Alpine Accentors. It was now a bit sunnier, less windy and much warmer.
Returned down the cable car and back to the hotel. I went out, driving up to the nearby hillside village of Arguebanes. I parked the car in the village and walked up the steep ‘street’ and then up a track bounding fields and oak woodland. By a large field at the top of the hill came across a flock of Mistle Thrush and Wood Pigeon. In the trees along the field edge were several Pied flycatchers, a Spotted Flycatcher and two Middle Spotted Woodpecker. A couple of Common Buzzard soared overhead.
2nd September. Our final day and sods law it was nice and sunny and the wind had dropped. Packed and were on the road by 0930. Drove north through Potes and into the Desfiladero de la Hermida, a 19km long limestone gorge. Many Griffon Vultures soaring overhead and two Red Squirrels seen but there were few stopping places.
We hit the coastal road and headed west. Low cloud still hung over the Sueve Mountains, so we headed down to the Villaviciosa Ria. Followed some minor roads down to the east side of the ria. Many waders of the mudflats, mainly Curlew, with Common Redshank, a few Greenshank, Ringed Plover, a couple of Whimbrel and some Black-tailed Godwits. There were also good numbers of Grey Heron and Little Egret. A nice Osprey sat on a platform on a pole out on the mud. Flushed a Common Sandpiper and a couple of Common Kingfisher out of one of the muddy creeks. In the adjacent fields quite a few Cattle Egret were following the cattle and I found a family of Zitting Cisticola.
Time was running out so we continued on west to the Airport to return the car having covered 1690km. Had an uneventful flight back to Stanstead.
In all we saw 116 different species and I had two lifers – Wilson’s Petrel and Great Shearweater. The undoubted highlight of the trip for me was the pelagic. The superb scenery of the Asturias region was a close second. The biggest disappointment was our day on the high tops, where the weather was against us. All in all, however, it was another very successful trip.
robert.swann@homecall.co.uk