As yet Oman is not a destination many birders think of but being situated between Europe, Africa and Asia it has excellent birding potential and the production of a superb site guide it may well be on some birders "hit" lists for the future.
With two of the group having the chance to visit a relative who lives and works in Oman we were at an advantage and the purchasing of a Land Rover Discovery 4x4 for his wife as a "run around" was an added bonus we then only needed to book the flight which we found with KLM and we were off
References:
Birdwatching Guide to Oman Eriksen & Sargeant
Oman Bird List (5) Eriksen & Sargeant
The Apex Map of Oman Apex Publishing
Collins Bird Guide Mullarney et al
Birds of the Middle East Porter Christensen et al
Guide to European and Middle East Birds Shirihai et al
Birds of Oman Website
Requirements:
A valid visa is needed to enter the Country please note if your passport has a stamp from Israel you will not be admitted you will need a new passport.
Check with your doctor for current information regarding any inoculations.
A 4x4 hire vehicle is not essential but your sites may be limited if you do not have one.
Itinerary
Feb 16th Birmingham - Amsterdam - Muscat arrived c10pm local time
Feb 17th Sunub Tip - Al Ansab Lagoons - Qurm Park + Beach
Feb 18th Sun Farms Sohar
Feb 19th Al Qurm Park + Beach
Feb 20th Sur Lagoons
Feb 21st Seeb Novotel Gardens - Sunub Tip - Al Ansab Lagoons
Feb 22nd Ras As Sawadi
Feb 23rd Liwa - Khawr Sallan - Khawr Kashmir - Sun Farms Sohar
Feb 24th Al Ghabha Motel - Al Ghaftayn Motel - Muntasar
Feb 25th Quitbit Motel - Muntasar - Al Beed Farm - Dhofar Mountains - East Khawr
Feb 26th East Khawr - Tawi Atayr - Wadi Darbat - Khawr Rawri
Feb 27th An Hamran - Khawr Taqah - Wadi Lower Darbat - Khawr Sawli - Ayn Razat - Ras Mirbat
Feb 28th East Khawr - Sahnawt Farm - Ad Duqm
Mar 1st Bar Al Hikman
Mar 2nd Al Qurm Park + Beach
Mar 3rd Al Ghubrah Bowl - Al Ansab Lagoons
Mar 4th Barrka - Shinas - Sun Farms Sohar
Mar 5th Qurayyat - Wadi Taan
Mar 6th Al Qurm Park + Beach
Mar 7th Jabal Shams - Al Ansab Lagoons
Mar 8th Sun Farms Sohar
Mar 9th Al Ansab Lagoons - Al Qurm Park + Beach
Mar 9th/10th Muscat-Amsterdam-Birmingham International
Highlights:
Feb 17th Sunub Tip (23 Species seen)
We stopped on the way to the tip having seen raptors circling the hills nearby we then got our first tick of the trip Hume's Wheatear this was closely followed by Lappet-faced Vulture with 40+ Egyptian Vulture, 25+ Steppe Eagle and 3 Imperial Eagle. Brown-necked Raven were also common here. In a small Wadi nearby we had Red-tailed Wheatear, Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse and Desert Lark. Note to enter the tip itself a permit is required see Birdwatching guide to Oman
Al Ansab Lagoons (38)
The first of many visits to this excellent site raptors included 2 Greater Spotted Eagle, 2 Imperial Eagle. Also 2 White-tailed Plover, Red-wattled Lapwing the first of many sightings of this common bird as was Chesnut-Bellied Sandgrouse and Grey Francolin other birds included Whiskered Tern, Citrine Wagtail and Western Reef Heron. When trying to find this site we followed one of the many yellow waste water trucks.
Al Qurm Park + Beach (40)
We finished the day by going to the park, which does not open till 4pm! and nearby beach. The beach produced Sooty Gull, Swift and Lesser Crested Tern and Slender-billed Gull. At the entrance to the park were 2 White-cheeked Bulbul with the ever numerous Yellow-Vented. In the well kept park which was one of our favourite sites we had 9 species of Heron/Egret including 3 Striated, 10 Night, Purple, Squacco, Western Reef and with probable Indian Pond (but with limited knowledge of this species in winter plumage and even looking at various books and websites on return it is not well documented and most references say it is nearly inseparable from Squacco in the field any comments welcome) Great White and Little Egret and an almost certain escaped Sacred Ibis (ring on right leg) flew in at dusk. Other birds here included 12 Pacific Golden Plover and Indian Roller our first sighting of this colourful bird and certainly not our last!
Feb 18th Sun Farms Sohar (51)
Another excellent site this large agricultural farm is made up of several round fields being constantly watered and as such is a magnet for birds. As you drive through the first part of the farm there are several cattle pens so not surprisingly we added Cattle Egret to the trip list with over 60 birds present. Around the fields and edges there were Black-crowned Finch Lark 100's, among the many 100's of Chesnut-bellied Sandgrouse we saw one Crowned fly in, careful scanning of the hirundine flocks produced 1 Brown-throated Sand Martin, the fields were full of Larks, Pipits, Wagtails, Wheatear's etc. The Settling Ponds held many species of wader the best being 10 Temminck's Stint. Note a permit is required for this site and should be requested in advance see Birdwatching guide to Oman
Feb 19th Al Qurm Park + Beach (64)
On the beach we had our first Great Black-headed Gull of the trip with Sooty, Slender-billed, Siberian and Caspian around. Greater Sand Plover and four species of Heron. In the park we again had excellent views of Striated Heron and added Bluethroat and 2 Isabelline Shrike to the trip.
Feb 20th Sur Lagoons (38)
On the way about 25km from Sur we stopped and saw 3 Lappet-Faced and 25+ Egyptian Vulture. At the tidal Lagoons we saw our first Lesser Sand Plover (40+), 8 Terek Sandpiper, 4 Caspian Tern, Gull-billed Tern, Great Black-headed Gull 50+ and the 500+ Slender-billed Gull flock had one of their number reduced by a hunting Imperial Eagle
Feb 21st Seeb Novotel Garden (11)
Red-vented Bulbul was our target for this site and we were not disappointed with 3 birds seen
Sunub Tip (14)
Usual raptors present and again 2 Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse seen in daylight
Al Ansab Lagoons (36)
We had 3 Greater Spotted Eagle including one of the fulvescens type and a well marked immature and 12 Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse came to drink at dusk.
Feb 22nd Ras As Sawadi (51)
At the beach we had masses of Gulls and Terns including 40+ Great Black-headed, good numbers of waders 90 Sanderling, 87 Dunlin and 5 Terek Sandpiper. It was nice to see 2 Osprey fishing out at sea. Calling in to the As Sawadi Beach Resort Hotel we had good views of 7 Red-vented Bulbul also Pied and Desert Wheatear.
Feb 23rd Liwa (25)
On route we decided to count Indian Roller and managed to get 157 between Muscat and Liwa. At Liwa we found our target species in the form of White Collared Kingfisher of the rare and endangered race kalbensis. Off shore the usual Gulls and Terns included Saunders Tern.
Khawr's Sallan and Kashmir (27)
These two small Khawr's are worth a check as they are not much of a detour from the Sun Farms
Sun Farms Sohar (45)
Female Montagu's, Hen and Marsh Harrier were present and many waders on the ponds including 84 Ruff and Wagtails numbers had increased with c700 White in one flock!
24th Feb
We decided to drive to the South of Oman (there are internal flights) and were given two very sound pieces of advice • DO NOT drive the desert road at night, as camels are not aware of the Highway Code and tend to cross very frequently. You will NOT see them until it is too late • Fill up at every petrol station as there are only four in the 800km drive to the south
Al Ghabah Motel and Al GhaftaynMotel (13)
On the stretch of road between the two Motels we had 11 Hoopoe Lark, 3 Desert Wheatear and a Brown-necked Raven in 290km!
The two Motels held the same species and at the right time of year would hold greater numbers, as there is nothing for 100's of km around. We had 2 Menetries Warbler, 4 Hoopoe Lark and Green Sandpiper!
Muntasar (11)
Although late we called in at this site to check the area and where it would be best to see the parties of Sandgrouse that would be arriving to drink here in the morning.
Feb 25th Quitbit Motel (12)
After a good meal the previous evening and comfortable nights sleep we had a look around the gardens which held similar species to the other two Motels.
Muntasar (13)
Our previous visit the night before was worth the effort as we were rewarded with good views of 292 Spotted, 34 Crowned and 11 Chesnut-bellied Sandgrouse flying in but getting to photograph and video the birds proved more of a challenge.
Al Beed Farm (11)
We had 3 Cream-coloured Courser at this site and 4 very hot Kentish Plover but little else.
Dhofar Mountains (13)
As you start to descend from the mountain pass towards Salalah it is worth stopping at various points by the side of the road as and when you see birds, as we saw five species of Eagle including Bonelli's, Short-toed and Golden, three species of Harrier including Pallid, Fan-tailed Raven and our first African Rock Bunting by doing this.
East Khawr (25)
Before finding a hotel for the night we could not resist visiting one more site. The best bird on this visit was Clamorous Reed-warbler.
In Salalah we found a very good hotel the Hamilton Plaza, our "family room" consisted of two en-suite bedrooms, lounge and kitchen.
Feb 26th East Khawr (37)
We saw 2 Masked Booby, 2 Intermediate Egret, Pallid Harrier and our first two Glossy Ibis.
Tawi Atayr (19)
This is the place in Oman to see Yemen Serin but can be very elusive and difficult to see in the large sinkhole, one of the few target species we missed. We saw South Arabian Wheatear, House Bunting, Bonelli's Eagle (perched in the sinkhole), Booted, Short-toed and Imperial Eagle overhead.
Wadi Darbat (24)
On the steep road down into the Wadi we had African Paradise Flycatcher, Shining Sunbird and many White-breasted White-eye. In the Wadi itself we saw 3 Arabian Partridge, 4+ Bruce's Green-pigeon and 50+ Ruppell's Weaver in one flock, in the pools were common waders and Egrets/Herons but would hold better species at other times of the year.
Khawr Rawri (37)
Usual Egrets and Herons Purple being the best. This is where we had our most Duck species in the south including 6 Ferruginous. Waders included Marsh Sandpiper and Black-winged Stilt also we saw 2 Blue Rock-thrush, 15+ Citrine Wagtail in various plumages and our first Pheasant-tailed Jacana.
Feb 27th Ayn Hamran (25)
Between the main road and the parking area we saw Cream-coloured Courser. Usual southern species including African Paradise Flycatcher, Arabian Warbler, Palestine and Shining Sunbird, 3 Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse a bonus of a skulking Black-crowned Tchagra and a pair of adult Verreaux's Eagle seen in flight along the cliff face and perched on ledge.
Wadi Lower Darbat (12)
Below the cliffs at Wadi Darbat there is a continuation of the Wadi to the coast. It is worth a quick look the best birds were Night Heron, Bluethroat and Blue Rock Thrush.
Khawr Taqah (19)
This Khawr on the outskirts of the village held Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Clamorous Reed-warbler, Purple Heron and Little Bittern.
Khawr Sawli (23)
Usual Khawr species including 6 Glossy Ibis another good site for duck including 3 Cotton Teal.
Ayn Razat (12)
The small park is easily viewed from outside so the 1600hr opening time is not a problem, usual birds the best being another pair of Verreaux's Eagle above the cliffs.
Ras Mirbat (10)
A quick check for seabirds only produced usual Gulls and Terns with 1 Masked Booby.
28th Feb East Khawr (23)
Usual birds present including 2 Intermediate Egret, Greater Spotted Eagle, Clamorous Reed-warbler, 1 Masked Booby and an immature Pink-backed Pelican the first record for Oman if accepted.
Sahnawt Farm (8)
A Permit is needed to visit this site and nearby Jarziz Farm but acceptable views can be had from outside the perimeter fence. 19 White Stork were feeding around the vehicles working the fields, Sparrowhawk, Hobby and Kestrel were hunting the fields which contained 70+ Singing Bushlark and two species of Sandgrouse.
Ad Duqm (13)
After driving back north for seven hours we called in at this site as it is recommended for Crab Plover which we saw 15. Thousands of gulls and terns were on the beach and around the nearby fish factory including 20+ Great Black-headed.
Mar 1st Bar Al Hikman (30)
A vast site where a day does not do it justice. Many thousands of waders but at a great distance, to get closer you would need to drive on the "sabkha" a mixture of sand, salt and mud. A warning in the guide about this potentially dangerous area prompted us to keep to the main roads so our species list is reduced because of this. Among the 15 species of wader we saw Crab Plover, Greater and Lesser Sandplover, Terek Sandpiper and Temminck's Stint. A flock of 400+ Cormorant failed to produce a Socotra amongst them
Mar 2nd Al Qurm Park + Beach (40)
Back in the north and after a well-earned good night's sleep we spent the afternoon in the park. Usual species including White-cheeked Bulbul, in the reeds we saw Clamorous Reed-warbler overhead Peregrine Falcon and as yet an unidentified Shrike sp. sent to many people and no positive id forthcoming, any constructive comments welcome, more photos on request.
Mar 3rd Al Ghubrah Bowl (19)
The entrance to this area is via a fairly narrow track down a Wadi with very impressive cliffs on either side, it then opens out into a huge 20km bowl and therefore the birds are spread over a wide area. Around the cliffs 3 Lappet-faced and many Egyptian Vulture, 10 Sand Partridge, 6 Desert Lark, 6 Black Redstart and 2Redstart the latter not recorded before at this site. At the far end of the bowl near the small village of Al Hijar we saw Plain Leaf and Desert Warbler.
Al Ansab Lagoons (30)
A quick visit to this site produced 3 White-winged Black Tern with the usual Whiskered flock and a immature Night Heron feeding on a small overflow pipe between two pools which we saw on every visit after this.
Mar 4th Barrka (6)
On our way to Shinas we called in to this coastal village after receiving a text message from home about a scarce bird for Oman Common Gull! On parking by the beach it quickly dawned on us the scale of the task with thousands of Gulls stretching several kilometer's along the shoreline we decided to move on!
Shinas (39)
The beach area had the usual Gulls and Terns and 8 Terek Sandpiper offshore we had 4 Arctic Skua. In the mangroves we had Sykes's Warbler and inland near a football pitch! (Do not look for a grassy field as pitches are just the same as the surrounding area with most of the big stones removed!) We saw a male Namaqua Dove.
Sun Farms Sohar (37)
Usual species seen and checking through a large flock of Larks and Pipits we saw an Oriental Skylark. Other birds of note were 26 Pacific Golden Plover and many waders still present.
Mar 5th Qurayyat Area (52)
This is large area covering many habitats; you can cover most of these in one day. Near the harbour entrance the huge Gull and Tern flock held 97 Great Black-headed Gull our largest count of this species. On one of the several small Khawr's along the coast we had an Avocet. Near the waste disposal site were 4 Chesnut-bellied and 2 Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse, inside the tip were several Steppe Eagle, 25+ Egyptian Vulture and around a small pond used for the disposal of waste oil we had 5 very sad looking and badly oiled White Stork. The salt pans were dry on our visit but looked like an excellent site for birds when full.
Wadi Taan (9)
We stopped at this area under a huge cliff face. The best bird was a male Menetries Warbler.
Mar 6th Al Qurm Park + Beach (54)
All the usual birds in the park with a Long-legged Buzzard circling overhead and perching in the nearby scrub area, a Pin-tailed Snipe was feeding on the grass also we had 6 Isabelline Shrike + the Shrike sp. and 16 Pacific Golden Plover
Mar 7th Jabal Shams Area (10)
We visited this site as in the guide it is has been called the "Little Grand Canyon" and as such it was an impressive site when we eventually reached the area after a long drive (28km) up a steep and narrow track. The best bird was a Lappet-faced Vulture flying below us before rising up above the huge cliff face.
Al Ansab Lagoons (37)
An evening visit to this site along with the usual birds was rewarded with 6 Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse and 3 Egyptian Nightjar (videoed in the headlights where their red eyes showed at a considerable distance)
Mar 8th Sun Farms Sohar (55)
With two days left of our trip we decided to spend these at our three favourite sites. An early start meant we got to the Farms earlier than in previous visits. We headed for the ponds for one last chance of seeing the long staying Long-billed Dowitcher (one has wintered here since 1997) Being early we also had our best wader counts with 12 Temminck's Stint, 22 Little Ringed Plover and 65 Ruff. Overhead a flock of c150 Pallid Swift flew through and 3 Red-rumped Swallow. Amongst the still large flock of wagtails were several races of Yellow, Citrine and the distinctive race of albaWagtail sometimes listed as Masked Wagtail. Walking to the centre of one of the sprinklers we saw 4 Namaqua Dove (3 fem. 1 male)
Mar 9th Al Ansab Lagoons (39)
Usual species present including Greater Spotted and Imperial Eagle.
Al Qurm Park + Beach (39)
The Long-legged Buzzard was still in the area as was 16 Pacific Golden Plover along with the usual Park birds.
Acknowledgements:
Many thanks to Graham Morley for putting up with us for three weeks and his wife Jill for letting us loose on the 4x4 before her! Jon Hall for sending us text messages about birds in Oman and at home! Eric Koops a Dutch birder we met on a previous trip for his report from 2001. Jaikumar Menon from the Sun Farms Sohar and his staff for all their help. Hanne and Jens Eriksen and Panadda and Dave Sargeant for producing probably the best where to watch birds book to date. Finally the warm and friendly welcome we received from the people of Oman.
This report is also available at http://www.draycotebirding.co.uk/omantrip.htm with over 100 images including and as yet unidentified shrike and lots more identification challenges.
