Having birded many parts of SE Asia on numerous occasions we decided to try somewhere completely new. We had often speculated about going to the islands in the Pacific which make up the region known as Micronesia as some of the endemic birds looked amazing and also there was some very good snorkeling to be had, however the amount of information available with regards birding sites was somewhat limited. This changed following Steve Smith's trip in March 2002 and his subsequent report, which provided details of sites where 40 of the 42 endemics occurred together with some possible local contacts. However we noted that we would need to visit 9 separate islands to have a chance of seeing all the endemics and doubted if this would be possible during a short visit. However investigation revealed that it would be, but we would need a lot of luck and one small hitch could completely blow our chances of cleaning up. We decided to give it a go.
Logistics
The logistics of getting to all the nine islands were immense and in the end during the 14 day visit we took 16 flights, used 3 separate rental cars, rented bikes for 2 days, used one inter island passenger ferry, had two speed boat journeys, stayed in 9 different hotels and spent two nights traveling. It was not cheap. Getting between the main islands of Saipan, Rota, Yap, Palau, Chuuk and Pohnpei is relatively easy as they all have an international airport of sorts and are served by Continental Micronesia. Getting to some of the more remote islands was not so easy but possible either by a 6-seater plane or speedboat. The majority of the flights are not daily and hence a schedule had to be devised to ensure we had enough time on each island to maximize our chances of seeing all the endemics.
Once on the islands we proceeded to the sites by either rental car, taxi or bikes. We pre-booked our car on Siapan and this proved essential as none of the agencies had any spare cars. This may have been because it was Christmas. We nearly came unstuck on Rota as we had not pre-booked a car and had difficulty renting one and wasted a lot of time finding one.
Accommodation/Food
We stayed in nine different hotels / guest houses during our stay. We made no advanced bookings and this proved no problem, however it may be advisable to pre book as most hotels provide free transport to and from the airport. The hotels we used were either those used by Steve or ones we found in the Lonely Planet Guide. None of them were cheap apart from Wenty's on Peleliu, the average price for a very basic room being around US$50-60. We had no problem getting accommodation, none of the hotels appeared very full even though it was the Christmas period.
All of the islands are very Americanized and had numerous stores selling all sorts of western food. We ate a number of times at the more expensive resorts most of which are open to non-residents. Food is not cheap either.
Weather
During our stay we had a number of periods of heavy rain. This was typically first thing in the morning or in the evening. It really only disrupted our plans on one day when the morning flight to Peleliu was cancelled. However this proved fortuitous as we saw a number of birds that morning that we did not see else where.
Sites
We saw 40 of the possible 42 endemics relatively easily, it was just a matter of getting to the right habitat and altitude. The only ones we missed were Pohnpei Mountain Starling and Guam Rail, both of which we didn't expect to see and are basically unavailable. The status of the Starling is uncertain with only recent documented specimen collected 4 July 1995, there are no subsequent confirmed sightings. To have any hope of seeing this species would require an arduous and extended camping trek into the upland forest on Pohnpei. We had no gen on where to find Guam Rail, which has been introduced onto Rota. This species has been wiped out in just over a decade on Guam by the accidentally introduced Brown Tree Snake.
On a number of the islands we saw all the single island endemics within a few hours. The main exception was the Ground Doves. These could cause a problem as they are not particularly common and you just have to come across them.
Micronesian Starling and Micronesian Myzomela are common on all the islands.
Marianas Islands
We visited three islands Saipan, Rota and Tinian. Mariana Fruit Dove and Rufus Fantail were seen on all three islands. The Fruit Dove was commonest on Rota, the Fantail was seen in good numbers on all the islands.
Saipan
All the endemics apart from Guam Swiftlet were seen in one small area. From the airport head north past the main resort area and the town of Gorapan until you reach the Fiesta Shopping Mall on the right. Turn right just past the Mall onto a road that leads uphill and continue the short distance to a very large water tank. The road forks here, the right hand paved road leads to an old radar station at the top of the mountain. Take this fork and after about 1 mile a dirt track leads off to the left. Take this dirt track until it ends after about 50m, park and walk along the Hadderantanki trail leading off the track. It is poorly signed. Within 50m we saw a number of Golden White-eye and Bridled White-eye.
White-throated Ground Doves were seen flying over the forest in the general area of the water tank. We found the best vantage point to view the forest was about 100m along the paved road past the water tank on the way to the radar station. We parked here and looked up at the forest to our left. We saw two birds within half hour of looking.
If you take the left hand fork at the water tank a rough but drivable track leads alongside a golf course. Make sure you take any further left hand forks as one or two right hand forks lead to dead ends. This track is a stake out for Nightingale Reed Warbler. We just stopped at the largest area of reed type grass and heard one singing in the middle of the afternoon. Upon playback it perched out in the open.
For Guam Swiftlet - from the airport take the inland road north instead of the coast road. About halfway along there is a rocky outcrop on the left hand side. We had two birds flying over the road and adjacent palms in this area.
Tinian
Tinian Monarch appears to be common. We saw one within 15 minutes of arriving on the island along the airport approach road. We saw several more along a track near the airport. From the terminal building walk straight out across the grass area and after about 25m there is a drivable trail on the right which runs through an area of low scrub. We found Tinian Monarch easy to see in this area.
Rota
We struggled trying to find Micronesian Crow. As far as we could find out there are no real stake outs. We were told the seabird colony was supposed to be a good place to see them and also around the Mochong Latte Stone Village and hence we concentrated our efforts in these areas just driving around the many tracks but we had no success. In the end we saw one in a forested cliff area on the opposite side of the bay to the seabird colony. From Sinapalu Village next to the airport take the road south. After a couple of miles there is a forested valley on the left hand side between the sea and the road and a forested steep incline with rocky outcrops on the right. We had one crow fly across the road from the valley and land briefly in the forest at the base of a rocky outcrop before flying off out of view over the top. Of all the areas we visited this probably seemed the best according to its habitat requirements as quoted in the Pratt, however others have seen it in all sorts of areas.
Rota White-eye, a very good potential split, was easily seen along the road to Mt Sababana. The species is localized even within it's restricted range, however a paper by Frederick Amidon highlighted areas of higher population density. We visited one of these areas by taking the road to the top of the mountain, which started near the airport. After about two miles the road bends sharply to the right just after a house set back on the left hand side. We parked on the bend just at the start of some good forest and walked uphill, within 10 minutes we found a small flock.
Palau
We visited two of the Islands and saw all the endemics fairly easily, however not all the birds were seen on both islands.
Palau Swiftlet was common on both islands and although Dusky White-eye occurs on both we only saw it on Koror where it was relatively easy to see. Giant White-eye does not occur on Koror. Palau Owl occurs on both Islands but despite listening for them on Koror we only heard them on Peleliu. It appears they require certain conditions to call regularly as on the first night we had at least 10 birds calling at different locations for at least the first two hours of darkness however on the second night although in the same area we only heard one bird call briefly. The only difference in the conditions was that on the second night it was slightly windy. On Koror we listened for one night in still conditions at the wooded rock near the Mobil service station but none were heard although Dutson had heard many there before. We had trouble seeing them even when they were calling, as they didn't respond to playback. It took us four hours of spotlighting before we got views in the village where it was easier to approach the tree where they were calling.
Koror
This small island is where the main town is. From the main town take the road towards the harbour SW out of the town. Cross the causeway and behind the Mobil service station on the left hand side is a large tree covered rock island. According to notes from Dutson there is a track that leads from behind the right hand side of the service station onto the island. We believed we located it but to get onto it you had to cross a wide cleft and as it was very wet it would have been dangerous. We birded the edge of the rocky island by walking along a wharf on the approach side. We spent about four hours in this very small area and saw Dusky White-eye, Palau Flycatcher, Caroline Island White-eye, Palau Fantail, Palau Fruit Dove and Micronesian Kingfisher. This is the only place we saw Cicadabird in Palau.
Peleliu
There appear to be two daily flights to Peleliu from Koror, which are not mentioned in any of the guides. Otherwise the only way to get there is by the government-operated boat, which does not appear to have any fixed schedule.
We birded many parts of the island but found all the endemics from the road that leads south from the only village at the north of the island. Giant White-eye is common as is Palau Bush Warbler.Morningbird was seen on two occasions along this road. Micronesian Megapode was found in the early evening in the Orange Beach area. We just cycled along the tracks between the main north south road and the beach and came across two fairly easily.
There are no real sites for the Ground Dove, we were lucky and had two sightings of birds flying across the road.
Another area worth exploring is a small area of ponds at the north of the island. As you leave the village turn right at the crossroads and after about half a mile there are some ponds on the left hand side. Although we did not see anything special here, the area had potential. By continuing along this road there is an extensive area of mudflats at low tide which was good for shorebirds however they were a long way out. The road leads to the quay then back to the village.
Federated States of Micronesia
Yap
We saw all the single island endemics and other Micronesian endemics by birding along a one-mile stretch of road. From the main town Colonia, take the road north after several miles there is a road on the left to Fanif. We parked after about half a mile and continued on foot to the highest point. There is some good forest on the left hand side. We saw Olive White-eye immediately at the lower altitude but did not see any at higher altitude. Plain White-eye was common and we also saw a number of Yap Monarchs. Micronesian Imperial Pigeons were seen flying over the forest and a White-headed Ground Dove, the only one we saw, was seen flying low across the road.
Chuuk - Tol South
To see the single island endemics you need to get to the island of Tol or Tol South as it is often referred to, which is about a one hour speed boat ride from Weno the main island and get to the top of Mount Winipot. We thought that this would be our biggest problem on the trip, however even with a fuel shortage it proved relatively easy. The best way is to make your way to the area of the quay where the Tol speed boats land. This is just to the left of a Mobil service station which is in front of the main harbour offices and a shop. We just asked around and very soon we found a boatman, Kisenso Enies, who spoke good English and was willing to take us across. As there is no accommodation on the island you usually have to arrange for them to come across early the following morning and make a day trip of it. However due to the fuel shortage Kisenso allowed us to stay at his place to save on the number of journeys. He was very reluctant at first but now he has done it once he will probably be willing to do it again. The accommodation was very basic and we took all our own food but we were well looked after and made very welcome by his extended family. His house is on the north east side of the island.
Once on the island you then have to get to the top of the Mount Winipot. Although it is only just over 400m and can not be more than one km from the coast it appears that very few of the villagers have ever been up it and there is no trail. Kisenso told us he knew the way although it soon became pretty obvious that he didn't, but between him and the other 6 guides that came with us we managed to get to the top, it was hard going though. It's best to approach from the SW side as it is less steep. At the top of the mountain is a small plateau where the best forest is. We saw our first Great Truk White-eye at about 300m and heard several others higher up. They are not easy to see, as they tend not to be very active and just appear to sit around. We saw at least two Truk Monarchs on the top and had two separate sightings of Caroline Island Ground Dove as we climbed the mountain. Truk Monarch was also heard and seen in the mangroves. Unlike Steve's experience, we found that our guide did not take us to the village chief or village police to obtain permission to visit the forest.
The other endemics, Caroline Island Reed Warbler, Caroline Island Swiftlet Oceanic Flycatcher were also seen on the island.
Weno
The only place we birded on the main island was at the Japanese Gun, which is about a 5min taxi ride from the quay, it's marked on the maps. We saw all the common endemics there as well as our only Blue-faced Parrot Finch.
Pohnpei
We had no prior information with regards sites on the island and relied on Bill Raynor arranging a guide for us. The guide, Estin William, was excellent. He knew all the bird calls and guided us into the fern forest with no problem.
We saw Pohnpei Lorikeet and Grey White-eye from our hotel window and both were relatively common on most parts of the island. Pohnpei Flycatcher and Pohnpei Fantail were both common and seen in a variety of habitats.
To see Long-billed White-eye it appears you need to get above 300m in the fern forest. I would advise that you get a guide From the main town Kolonia take the road to Nan Madol. 18 miles after you leave the town there is a bus stop on the left and a track on the right just before a small bridge. Turn right down this track. If you come to a baseball/basket ball court on your left you have missed the turning by half a mile. Follow this track to the end and park then continue along the trail. Estin William lives about half way down this track on the right hand side. At first the trail passes through coconut plantation but after a while it runs through fern forest. The trail leads past a waterfall and ends at a river. We carried on along the river upstream and then headed off on an ill-defined trail through amazing fern forest up to a ridge. We saw Long-billed White-eye on the ridge at about 300m. Their behavior was similar to the Truk White-eye in the fact that they were not very active. We saw all the endemics on the walk.
References, Reports and Acknowledgements
We would like to thank Steve Smith for in the first instance providing the report without which we probably would of never made the trip and for answering our many questions. We would also like to thank Bill Raynor (braynor@mail.fm) for arranging the guide on Pohnpei and providing us with advice and contacts on other islands.
Birding In Micronesia with additional notes from Guy Dutson 10th Feb - 6th March 2002 - Steve Smith
The Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific - Pratt, Bruner and Berrett
Departed on the 18.00 flight from Hong Kong to Manila. Arrived in Manila and as we had a three hour layover decided to hit the town for a few beers. Departed Manila at 11.40 and arrived in Guam 4 hours later.
Friday 20th December
Following the recent typhoon the majority of Guam was still without electricity and there was no water or air conditioning at the airport. Had a lay over of three hours before we caught the 08.00 flight to Saipan. Stored our bags in our rental car and then made our way to the small terminal for the ten minute flight to Tinian. These flights sort of run to a half hourly schedule but this is not hard and fast. Once on Tinian walked along the approach road to the airport. Almost immediately we saw our first Micronesian endemic Micronesian Mysomala quickly followed by two Micronesian Starlings. These were soon followed by three Mariana Island endemics, Rufus Fantail, Bridled White-eye and Mariana Fruit Dove. After about 15 mins we saw our first single island endemic, Tinian Monarch. Spent another hour in the area of the airport before returning to Saipan. From the airport took the inland road north and after about 5km's just opposite a small rock face we saw two Guam Swiftlets. Got great views as they flew across the road and adjacent palms. These were the only ones we saw on the trip.
Made our way to the track that leads to the radar station on top of Mt Petosukara and spent the next three hours birding in this area and around the water tank. We quickly saw Golden White-eye and Nightingale Reed Warbler. Made our way to the Bird Island lookout where our first White-tailed Tropicbirds of the trip were seen. From here drove along the main road towards Gorapan and just past the Suicide Cliffs stopped and saw both Red-tailed and White-tailed Tropicbirds flying along the cliff face. By now we were getting tired and so decided to make our way back to the water tank area and slept for an hour in the car. Spent the last hour at a good vantage point just past the water tank over looking the forest. It was not long before we saw a male White-throated Ground Dove flying low over the forest. This was soon followed by female. With dusk approaching and with nothing else to see, retired to Gorapan where checked into a hotel and had a big night out on the town to celebrate our successful first day.
Saturday 21st December 2002
We were due to spend the day on Siapan but as we had done so well the previous day, decided to get the early morning flight to Rota. Departed Siapan at 07.45 and arrived at Rota 30 minutes later. Tried to hire a car at the airport but none were available. Eventually managed to find one at a local hotel. Spent the next 4 hours driving along the dirt tracks between Mochong Beach, the airport and the bird sanctuary looking for Mariana Crow but with no success. With the weather deteriating decided to look for the distinctive Rota race of Bridled White-eye. Made our way to a suitable looking area identified as an area of high population density in Amidon's paper and within few minutes located a small flock of Rota White-eyes foraging in the low forest. As we made our way back to the bird sanctuary we obtained great views of a White-throated Ground Dove on the side of the road. Still no sign of the Crow and with showers of rain becoming more frequent decided to try a new area - the forest and cliff on the other side of the bay from the bird sanctuary around Haina Point. As soon as we got there a Mariana Crow flew across the road and landed in the forest briefly before taking off and flying over the cliff. Within minutes the rain started to come down and we decided that if we could get off the island that day, as we had nothing new to see. Made our way to the airport and managed to catch the late afternoon flight to Guam where with luck we managed to squeeze onto to the evening flight to Palau. Arrived in Koror at 10pm checked into a hotel and made our way to an area where Dutson had heard many Palau Owls about 2km out of the main town. Spent a couple of hours listening but nothing was heard, however we did mange to spot light a pair of eyes of a distant bird which was perched on a exposed branch and was seen to fly catch on a number of occasions. We couldn't get any views and it remained unidentified. Returned to the hotel at about midnight.
Sunday 22nd December 2002
Woke to heavy rain and low cloud. From the hotel window saw our first Palau endemic, Palau Swiftlet. Made our way to the airport only to find that the morning flight to Peleliu had been cancelled and there would not be another one until late afternoon. Disappointed but with the rain now stopping we decided to return to the area we were in the previous evening as Dutson had indicated that he had seen a number of the endemics there. The area was a large tree covered promontory, which apparently had a trail through. Tried to find the trail into the forest but the only way to get onto it was by climbing across a large drop and because of the slippery conditions we decided against it and birded the area from the road running down one side of it. Spent about four hours in this very small area but in that time managed to see Dusky White-eye (the only ones we saw), Caroline Island White-eye, Palau Fantail, Palau Fruit Dove, Palau Flycatcher, Micronesian Kingfisher and Cicadabird, again the only ones we saw.
Made our way to the airport and caught the 3pm flight to Peleliu getting great views of the Rock Islands as we flew over them. Were met at Peleliu airport as pre arranged and on route from the airport to the main village we saw a Palau Ground Dove fly across the road. Dropped our bags off at Wenty's Guest house where we were staying, hired bikes and made our way to the southern end of the island exploring the tracks between the main north south track and Orange beach. Very quickly located Micronesian Megapode, Giant White-eye and Palau Bush Warbler. As it got dark a number of Palau Owls began calling. They didn't respond to playback and eventually after 4 frustrating hours of trying we eventually managed to get brief views of one as it flew from a tree.
Monday 23rd December 2002
Out at first light and birded the road south of the village and very quickly found our last endemic Morningbird. Spent the rest of the day cycling around the island seeing similar birds that we had see the day before. Spent some time exploring a small pool at the northern end of the island and the mud flats at low tide in the hope of seeing Bristle-thighed Curlew. But no luck, the few waders were feeding a long way out.
In the evening we headed to the area where we heard and saw Palau Owl the previous evening but despite waiting for nearly three hours we heard only one brief burst of call. It appears that there must be some sort of conditions that entice them to call.
Tuesday 24th December 2003
Up at first light and spent the first hour birding the road south of the village, saw the usual endemics. Made our way to the quay where we caught the small public ferry back to Koror arriving around midday. We were a day ahead of our planned schedule but because the next flight to Yap was not until the following day we had a the rest of the day to kill and the morning of the next day. Ended up going to the Pacific Resort Hotel and chilling out.
Wednesday 25th December 2002
Up early and spent the morning snorkeling in the Rock Islands. We used Sam's Dive Tours who were a very professional outfit, however we were disappointed by the snorkeling. There was plenty of coral but not many fish. We were late back, quickly returned to our hotel to shower and pick up our bags and made our way to the airport with 45 mins to go, only to be told that the flight had closed. There followed a few anxious moments and a lot of pleading before we got onto the flight. Arrived Yap at 16.00, rented a Taxi and made our way to an area by the sports center recommended by Steve in his report. Despite a lot of looking we failed to find any good forest so made our way back towards the main town and took the turning to Fanif where the taxi driver said there was some good forest. Were dropped off at the start of the forest and started walking along the road up the hill. Immediately saw two Yap Olive White-eyes. These were quickly followed by a number of Plain White-eyes. Spent the last hour birding from the road and saw the remaining island endemic Yap Monarch as well as Mountain Imperial Pigeon and White-headed Ground Dove, a possible split. By nightfall we had cleaned up.
Checked into our Hotel and rented a car for the following day before retiring to the Mantaray Hotel for a wonderful Christmas dinner of turkey and all the trimmings on a converted Indonesian pirate ship which acts as the hotel restaurant/bar.
Thursday 26th December 2002
Up at first light and explored the area around the old airport. We could not find any real suitable habitat, mainly scrub and beetle nut plantations, and didn't really see much.
Returned to the Mantaray Hotel where we joined a dive boat and went out to the edge of the reef. We were told that it might be possible to see Manta Rays by snorkeling. We expected just to see shadows but in the end we got excellent views of 5 as they came into the lagoon to a cleaning station. A stunning sight not to be missed. Also saw White-tipped Reef Shark.
Returned to land at about 15.00 and spent the rest of the day exploring the NW side of the island seeing a similar selection of birds as the previous day.
At dusk returned to the Mantaray hotel had a great meal then made our way to the airport to catch the 1.40am flight to Chuuk via Guam.
Friday 27th December 2002
Arrived at Chuuk and tried to find a taxi to take us to the agriculture offices as we hoped to meet John Sound who we were told could possibly assist us in getting to the island of Tol South where two of the single island endemics occurred. Had trouble getting a taxi, the reason being that there was a fuel shortage as the tanker from Guam was three weeks late due to the typhoon. Eventually managed to get a ride the short distance to John's office however he was not in and no one knew where he was or when he would be back. We explained to his assistant what we wanted and he very obligingly took us to the quay and showed us were the Tol South speed boats docked. There were a number of boats there and we asked around about the possibility of getting a ride however the general opinion was that due to the lack of fuel it was unlikely. Was this going to be our first problem? Eventually we found a guy who spoke good English and lived on the island. We told him we wanted to get to Tol South and get guided up to the top of the mountain. He said that was no problem however he was concerned if he would be able to get enough fuel to do the trip. We agreed to meet up with him at 14.00 after he had hunted around to see if he could find any fuel.
Managed to find a taxi and made our way the 2km's to the Japanese Gun on the outskirts of town. Within and hour of birding a very small area we saw a number of Micronesian endemics Caroline Island Reed Warbler, Caroline Island Swiftlet, Oceanic Flycatcher and Caroline Island Ground Dove. Made our way back to the quay and met up with the boatman who was not having much luck. In the end we suggested that we came with him that afternoon and camped in his grounds as this would save him some fuel. He was reluctant at first mainly because we think he was worried that the accommodation he could offer would not be very good. We eventually convinced him that we didn't care as all we wanted to do was to get to Tol South. In the end a deal was struck he went off and managed to get just enough fuel whilst we went and got some food and we met back at the quay at 16.00 and set off. The ride across was just over an hour. Spent the last hour of the evening birding around the boatman's house.
Saturday 28th December 2002
Up at first light had something to eat and then set off in an attempt to climb the mountain. Although it is only just over 400m there is no trail up and there are some steep rock faces to traverse. Kisenso and his son came with us as guides. As we walked along the edge of the mangroves we heard a Truk Monarch call once. We spent a while trying to see it but failed so decided to carry on. At the next house we were joined by five of Kisenso's cousins who were also going to act as guides. We now had seven guides in total but it appeared from what we could make out that none of them had been to the top of the mountain before or if they had it was a very long time ago. Spent the next two hours not getting very far. We climbed up through the plantations but kept on coming to steep rock faces and hence had to back track. In the end managed to find one that was not so steep and eventually managed to haul ourselves up. The guides with machetes then hacked a way through the dense undergrowth to the SW side of the mountain and we eventually came across a sort of very steep trail that lead up near a cave that was dug by the Japanese just above 200m. This was thirsty work and occasionally, one of our guides would climb a coconut palm bear-footed and the coconuts collected were cracked open for us to drink. Eventually we got to an exposed rock at about 300m and into fairly good forest at last. Almost immediately we found two Great Truk White-eyes.
As we were now this high we decided to try and get to the top as we had promised Bill Raynor that we would try and collect some giant millipedes from the top as they were possibly a new species still to be described. The last 100m meters was relatively easy going although there was no trail but we didn't get to really good forest until the final 50m. On route we managed to get excellent views of a perched Caroline Island Ground Dove. After about an hour of searching we eventually came across what was probably the bird of the trip, Truk Monarch. We got excellent views of a male and juvenile as they foraged in the lower canopy. It was now about 11.00 and after collecting some millipedes we started to make our way down. It was a steep decent and we eventually arrived back at Kisenso's house at 2pm and had a well deserved lunch. Whilst having lunch we saw a Truk Monarch flew across the a gap in the mangroves.
Said our goodbyes and headed back to Weno by speed boat, arrived early evening checked into a hotel and made our way to The Blue Lagoon Resort to have a meal and check out the possibilities of snorkeling the following day.
Sunday 29th December 2002
Not a very early start as we were pretty tired from our previous days exertions. Made our way to the Blue Lagoon resort, had breakfast and then spent the rest of the day snorkeling over the many WWII wrecks in the lagoon. It was different and quite eerie and we saw plenty of fish.
Spent the early evening at the resort before making our way to the airport and onto our final island Pohnpei.
The flight was delayed by about an hour. Arrived at 1am were met at the airport by the hotel staff who took us to the hotel.
Monday 30th December 2002
Up at first light and from the balcony saw our first endemics Pohnpei Lorikeet and Grey White-eye. Phoned a contact given to us by Bill and arranged to meet at 10am. Hired a car through the hotel and proceeded to the prearranged meeting location about 20kms from the main town. On route we saw three separate Micronesian Kingfishers sitting on roadside telegraph wires. Met up with our guide Estin and headed up hill. Very soon after setting off we came across Pohnpei Fantail and Pohnpei Flycatcher. After about an hour we reached some excellent fern forest and climbed through the forest until we reached a ridge at about 300m. Our guide who was excellent pointed out a pair of Long-billed White-eyes our final endemic as they flew into a tree but unfortunately we failed to see them before they flew off. We then spent a frustrating hour trying to locate them. In the end we just sat down on the ridge and eventually a pair landed in a tree above us and gave excellent views. With the final endemic seen we made our way down via a circular route and eventually somewhat exhausted back to the car.
Tuesday 31st December 2002
This was our final day. As our flight was not until 14.15, spent the morning from first light exploring the lower end of the trail we explored the previous day and managed eventually to locate a Cicadabird, a possible split. The last few hours were spent looking for suitable habitat for Bristle-thighed Curlew but with no luck.
Dropped our car off and caught the 14.15 flight to Guam where we had a layover of three hours before our connecting flight to Manila. Arrived in Manila at 22.00 checked into our hotel and hit the town big time to celebrate the New Year in and our successful trip.
Crested Tern Sterna bergii -1 Koror harbour, 2 from Peleliu quay, 1 from the Peleliu to Koror ferry.
Black-napped Tern Sterna sumatrana - 2 from the Blue Lagoon Resort Weno
Little TernSterna albrifrons - 2 on buoy from dive boat in Yap Lagoon
Bridled Tern Sterna anaethetus - 5 from the Peleliu to Koror ferry
Whiskered/White winged Black TernChlidonias hybridus - Birds not specifically identified were seen 10 Koror harbour, 5 from Peleliu quay
Common NoddyAnous stolidus - Seen on all islands in good numbers both on the sea and over the forest. Commonest on Palau
White Tern Gygis alba - Seen on all islands in good numbers especially over forest areas. Very common on Siapan.
Javan Turtle DoveStreptopelia bitorquata Introduced - Up to 10 seen daily on Mariana Islands
Nicobar Pigeon Caloenas nicobarica -1 over the main north south track Peleliu early morning, a total of six over same area at dusk Peleliu
Palau Ground DoveGallicolumba canifrons Endemic - Seen on two occasions flying across the road at different locations Peleliu
Caroline Islands Ground DoveGallicolumba kubaryi Endemic - 1 over Japanese Gun Weno, 2 Mount Winipot Tol South
White-throated Ground DoveGallicolumba xanthonura Endemic - 2 over forest near water tank Siapan, 1 on road to Rota resort Rota. 1 over Fanif road Yap was of the race called White-headed Ground Dove, which is sometimes considered to be a full species
Crimson-crowned Fruit-dove Ptilinopus porphyraceus - 3 Japanese Gun Weno, up to 10 Tol South, up to 10 daily Pohnpei
Palau Fruit-dove Ptilinopus pelewensis Endemic - 5 wooded rock SW of Koror, up to 10 seen daily Peleliu
Mariana Fruit-dovePtilinopus roseicapilla Endemic - 2 near airport Tinian, A total of 5 near water tank/suicide cliff Saipan, a total of 10 Rota in various habitats
Micronesian Imperial PigeonDucula oceanica Endemic - Up to 4 seen over the forest from the Fanif road Yap on both visits, 1 Pohnpei in fern forest
Pohnpei LorikeetTrichoglossus rubiginosus Endemic - Relatively common on Pohnpei seen in all habitats including from the hotel window in the center of Colonia
Greater Sulphur-crested CockatooCacatua galerita Introduced - 1 seen Koror
Palau OwlPyrrhoglaux podargina Endemic - Up to 10 heard one seen one night and 1 heard briefly the following night Peleliu
Palau SwiftletAerodramus pelewensis Endemic - Up to 50 seen daily Palau
Guam SwiftletAerodramus bartschi Endemic - 2 from the north south inland road Saipan
Caroline Islands Swiftlet Aerodramus inquusiet Endemic - Up to 50 seen daily on Weno, Tol South and Pohnpei
Micronesian KingfisherTodirhamphus cinnamominus Endemic - 2 in trees on wooded rock Koror, a total of 4 on telegraph wires whilst driving the 20km from Colonia to fern forest
Collared KingfisherTodirhamphus chloris - Between 10 and 15 seen daily on the Mariana Islands and Palau
SwallowHirundo rustica - Seen in small numbers throughout Micronesia
Cicadabird Coracina tenuirostris -1 male, 2 female wooded rock Koror, 2 females of the Pohnpei race (Coracina tenuirostris insepatum) Fern forest. We did not see the Yap race (Coracina tenuirostris nesiotis). These forms are sometimes considered as distinct species
Palau Bush-warbler Cettia annae Endemic - Only seen on Peleliu where up to 2 seen and 10 heard daily.
Nightingale Reed WarblerAcrocephalus luscinia Endemic -1 near water tank Saipan
Caroline Reed WarblerAcrocephalus syrinx Endemic - Maximum of 8 daily. Seen in all habitats from fern forest to hotel gardens Weno, Tol South and Pohnpei
Palau FantailRhipidura lepida Endemic - A maximum of 15 seen daily in all types of habitat Koror and Peleliu
Rufous FantailRhipidura rufifrons Endemic - Relatively common in forest areas Mariana Islands. Up to10 seen daily Yap
Pohnpei FantailRhipidura kubaryi Endemic - Up to 10 seen daily Pohnpei. Commonest in fern forest but also seen in roadside scrub
Truk MonarchMetabolus rugensis Endemic - 1 Male, 1 juv summit of Mount Winipot, I seen and 1 heard in mangroves Tol South
Yap MonarchMonarcha godeffroyi Endemic - Up to 10 seen in various habitats Yap
Tinian Monarch Monarcha takasukasae Endemic - A total of 8 on airport approach road and track near airport Tinian
Palau FlycatcherMyiagra erythrops Endemic - 2 wooded rock Koror, up to 2 seen daily Peleliu
Pohnpei FlycatcherMyiagra pluto Endemic - Up to 10 seen in fern forest, occasionally seen in roadside scrub
Oceanic Flycatcher Myiagra oceanica Endemic - 2 Japanese Gun Weno, 10 Mount Winipot Tol South
Morningbird Colluricincla tenebrosa Endemic - 1 from road south of Wenty's guest house each morning
Bridled White-eyeZosterops conspicillatus Endemic - Up to 20 near airport Tinian, a total of 50 in various habitat Saipan
Rota White-eyeZosterops Rotensis Endemic - 6 from road to top of mountain Rota
Caroline Islands White-eyeZosterops semperi Endemic - 10 wooded rock Koror, 3 from road south of Wenty's Peleliu, 2 Japanese Gun Weno 10 Mount Winipot Tol South, 5 at higher elevations in fern forest Pohnpei
Plain White-eyeZosterops hypolais Endemic - Up to 20 seen daily Yap
Dusky White-eyeZosterops finschii Endemic - 6 wooded rock Koror
Grey White-eye Zosterops cinereus Endemic - Common Pohnpei seen in all habitats with the exception of higher altitude fern forest
