The trip was designed to see the Puerto Rican endemics as well as a few of the regional endemics that we had not seen elsewhere. For planning we relied on Steven Huggins article in Neotropical Birding (number 19, 2016) and trip reports from Mike and Denise Hunter (2019) and Ian Merrill (2016) as well as material in the 2021 edition of ‘Birds of Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands’ by Raffaele et al. We spent most time in the south-west of the island where most key sites are located. The road system is very good, even many of the very minor roads are sealed. We had no problems with accommodation, all pre-booked, and found everyone very friendly and helpful. There are plenty of supermarkets, convenience stores and restaurants. The island has suffered a series of natural disasters in the last few years. Recent hurricanes have severely damaged the rainforest of El Yunque and there is evidence of storm and tidal damage in all the coastal reserves in the east. We saw all of our target species with the exception of Antillean Crested Hummingbird, but suspect that the seemingly low numbers of hummingbirds generally may be a consequence of the recent hurricanes. Although all species seen were recorded, no special efforts were made to look for non-target species, particularly water birds. All-in-all Puerto Rico is a great place for a birding trip!
Logistics
We flew from Brisbane to San Juan via Dallas and returned via Miami and Los Angeles. We had pre-booked a 4WD car from Avis which we collected at about 10.30 pm.
Accommodation:
15 February – Arecibo Inn, Arecibo
24 hour service appreciated as we arrived at 1.00am, well priced, helpful staff, free breakfast
16 – 18 February – Turtle Bay Inn, Parguera
Very comfortable room, helpful staff, packed breakfast available on request, a bit over-priced
19 – 21 February – Hotel Parador 1929, Guanica
Beautiful old building, good restaurant but not always open, accomm very well priced. We ate at Trasiego on Malecon de Guanica, very good seafood restaurant but also good steaks
22 February – Arecibo Inn, Arecibo
As above
23 – 27 February – Casa Cubuy Lodge, El Yunque
Beautiful room, great breakfast included, but only had it once as served late, shared kitchen useful but we ate at a home based restaurant Noelia’s five minutes down the road, excellent food and very well priced
27 February – Holiday Inn Express, San Juan
Main sites visited:
RIO ABAJO: This forest site is well described in Huggins (2016) and Raffaele et al. (2021). It is about a 30 min drive south of Arecibo. We visited it twice, once on the 16 February, when we heard but failed to see the Puerto Rican Parrot and again on the 22 February when we were successful. An excellent site with many of the endemics.
LA PARGUERA: This small town is the best site for the endemic Yellow-shouldered Blackbird. The stake-out is the hardware store near the mangroves. Our first visit was unsuccessful so we consulted the store owner who told us that we must come at 3.30 pm when they would fly into the trees by the parking area. Following his advice, we returned at about 3 pm and saw four birds arrive in the trees at 3.40. They only remained for 10 minutes before flying back towards the mangroves.
GUANICA STATE FOREST PARK: We visited this dry forest park several times. The main route in is on road 334 which leads to the park information centre and car park. Various trails radiate from here. We found the Camino Murcielagos to be quite productive. About halfway between the entrance boom gate and the car park there is a track called the Camino los Cabanas – also quite birdy. Beware however, that the park seems to have somewhat random opening hours and is closed some days (We could not find any details). Another good access point is via route 333. About a km past the large resort on the right there is a gate on the left with no entry signs. We were informed more than once that it is ok to walk northwards on this track. On the right side of the road the track leads towards the sea and the Bahia Ballena reserve. The forest in this area is wetter and better developed than on the north side and we saw more birds here.
MARICAO STATE FOREST: This is an excellent birding area in the hills beyond Sabana Grande along route 120. We visited it on the 18th and 20th February. There are a number of good trails, including the one that goes up to the transmitter from the car park at Parks HQ; the trail that starts at the 16.8 km marker; the bridge area at 18 km and the mixed habitat at the 20 km marker. Birding was also good in the vicinity of the Monte del Estado resort.
LAGUNA CARTAGENA: We visited this National Wildlife Refuge on 21st February. Water levels were relatively low, but many water birds were seen.
BOQUERON WILDLIFE RESERVE: This is a mainly mangrove and estuarine habitat on the SW coast. It is easily accessible with parking at the HQ buildings. We arrived mid-morning on the 21st February in the heat of the day, but the birding along the trail through the reserve was still excellent.
EL YUNQUE NATIONAL FOREST: We stayed on the southern edge of the park at Casa Cubuy which is located on route 191 within a km of the southern entrance of the park. The walk from the lodge to the Sabana River Recreation area was good for birding. The lodge itself overlooks the forested Cubuy and Sabana River valleys and there were many birds in the vicinity of the lodge. A short walk along the road to enter the park
HUMACAO NATURE RESERVE: We drove to this coastal reserve from Casa Cubuy on 24th February. The drive took only about 45 minutes. The birding around the lagoons and along the trails was quiet. Most bird activity was centred around the uppermost car park.
LAS CROABAS & SEVEN SEAS RESERVE: The reason for visiting Las Croabas was to check out the Jacaranda trees opposite the police station for hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the trees had finished flowering. We parked in the large car park for the Seven Seas Reserve, which is partially surrounded by forest and walked the Seven Seas trail. Both were relatively quiet.
NOTES OF SPECIES SEEN
Target species in CAPITALS
Ruddy Duck
Laguna Cartagena; Boqueron
White-cheeked Pintail
Laguna Cartagena and Humacao lagoons
Helmeted Guineafowl
Large flock of this introduced species on Camino La Planta, Florida (Route 191) adjacent to the water pumping station
Pied-billed Grebe
Humacao lagoons
Rock Dove
Widespread
African Collared Dove
La Parguera suburbs
Scaly-naped Pigeon
The commonest large forest pigeon – seen at Rio Abajo, Maricao and El Yunque
Ruddy Quail Dove
El Yunque
White-winged Dove
widespread
Zenaida Dove
widespread
Mourning Dove
widespread
Common Ground Dove
Widespread in all forested areas
PUERTO RICAN NIGHTJAR
Seen at 7.30 pm Camino Balleno off route 333, Guanica. Up to six birds calling in vicinity
ANTILLEAN MANGO
Seen at Guanica; Rio Abajo
GREEN MANGO
Seen at Rio Abajo; Maricao
GREEN-THROATED CARIB
Only seen at Humacao in flowering trees around upper car park
PUERTO RICAN EMERALD
Seen at Monte del Estado carpark Maricao
Smooth-billed Ani
Common in agricultural areas and suburbs
Mangrove Cuckoo
Common at Guanica,
PUERTO RICAN LIZARD CUCKOO
Seen at Rio Abajo where nesting and heard at Guanica
Purple Gallinule
Laguna Cartagena
Common Gallinule (Moorhen)
Widespread in all ponds and lagoons visited
American/Caribbean Coot
American Coot seen at Laguna Cartagena and Caribbean race at Humacao lagoons
Brown Pelican
In all coastal areas visited
Black-crowned Night Heron
Laguna Cartagena
Green Heron
Laguna Cartagena,
Cattle Egret
widespread
Great Blue Heron
widespread
Great Egret
widespread
Little Blue Heron
Humacao lagoons
Snowy Egret
Widespread
Glossy Ibis
Humacao lagoons
Magnificent Frigatebird
In all coastal areas visited
Brown Booby
Las Croabas
Spotted Sandpiper
Rocky shoreline in front of Hotel Parador 1929 Guanica
Lesser Yellowlegs
Three birds on the ponds of the Cooperative Rice Winter Nursery on route 303
Greater Yellowlegs
Six birds on the ponds of the Cooperative Rice Winter Nursery on route 303
Sandwich Tern
Several birds perched on mooring buoys in Hucares harbour
Royal Tern
Seen at all coastal sites visited
Turkey Vulture
Common, but mainly in the west
Osprey
Laguna Cartagena
Broad-winged Hawk
Pair seen soaring over the canopy at Rio Abajo on 16th and 22nd February
Red-tailed Hawk
Seen over the forest at Casa Cubuy
PUERTO RICAN SCREECH OWL
Only seen at Rio Abajo, but heard at Guanica and Maricao
PUERTO RICAN WOODPECKER
Widespread, seemingly wherever there are mature trees
PUERTO RICAN TODY
Seen in all forest areas: Rio Abajo, Maricao, Guanica
American Kestrel
Widespread
Merlin
Only seen once at Seven Seas Reserve parking area
Peregrine
Only seen once at Camino las Cabanas in Guanica
Monk Parakeet
Only seen at Seven Seas Reserve parking area where abundant
PUERTO RICAN PARROT
Good views of two birds at Rio Abajo on 22nd February between 7 and 7.30 am in the trees around the disused camping area adjacent to the boom gate on the main road. Heard in the same area on 16th February
Caribbean Elaenia
Only seen on Camino Murcielagos and Bahia Ballena tracks in Guanica
Grey Kingbird
Common and widespread
Loggerhead Kingbird
Widespread
PUERTO RICAN FLYCATCHER
Seen at Guanica, both at carpark on 334 and Bahia Ballena track; Boqueron; Rio Abajo (nesting)
LESSER ANTILLEAN (PUERTO RICAN) PEWEE
This was an elusive bird until Boqueron Reserve, where it was common along the trail. Subsequently also seen at Rio Abajo
PUERTO RICAN VIREO
Seen at Maricao
BLACK-WHISKERED VIREO
Maricao and El Yunque
Orange-cheeked Waxbill
Seen in mixed flocks with two following species on waste ground in La Parguera
Bronze Manakin
As above and in reed beds along Rio Cubuy, Florida (route 191)
Scaly-breasted Munia
Seen in mixed flocks with two previous species on waste ground in La Parguera
House Sparrow
widespread
ANTILLEAN EUPHONIA
Only seen at km 20 at Maricao – nesting pair
PUERTO RICAN TANAGER
Seen in all forest areas
PUERTO RICAN SPINDALIS
Seen in all forest areas
ELFIN WOODS WARBLER
Only seen at Maricao, on the Transmitter trail and the 16.8 km trail
Northern Parula
Guanica; Bahia Ballena
Yellow Warbler
Path to Bahia Ballena; Guanica
ADELAIDE’S WARBLER
Common throughout Guanica and Rio Abajo
Venezuelan Troupial
Common in agricultural areas and suburbs
PUERTO RICAN ORIOLE
Seen nesting in disused camping area adjacent to boom gate at Rio Abajo. Also at Casa Cubuy and Humacao
YELLOW-SHOULDERED BLACKBIRD
Only seen at La Parguera hardware store stakeout
Shiny Cowbird
Trees around Cooperative Rice Winter Nursery on route 303
Greater Antillean Grackle
Widespread
Bananaquit
Widespread in almost all habitats
PUERTO RICAN BULLFINCH
Common at Rio Abajo, Maricao and Guanica
Black-faced Grassquit
Seen at Rio Abajo, Maricao and Guanica wherever grass along tracks seeding
CARIBBEAN MARTIN
Several birds flying over the harbour at Hucares; also at Rio Cubuy bridge on route 191, Florida
PEARLY-EYED THRASHER
Seen at Guanica, Maricao
Northern Mockingbird
Seen at La Parguera; Seven Seas reserve; Bahia Ballena
Red-legged Thrush
Common in forests and also garden areas