Photos with this report (click to enlarge) | |||
 Tokoeka (Southern Brown Kiwi) |
 South Island Takahē |
 Tākapu (Australasian Gannet) |
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 Kororā (Little Penguin) |
 Korimako (Bellbird) |
 Buller's Albatross |
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INTRODUCTION
Kia ora (Hello)! Below, I describe our early 2023 trip throughout the fantastic island nation of Aotearoa (New Zealand). Currently, both my partner Liza and I are recent college graduates and rangers in Yosemite National Park. I am an avian biological technician while Liza is an interpretive ranger.
Between the 19th of January and the 16th of March, Liza and I explored the Northlands and the central North Island from Auckland. We then flew down to Wellington; took a ferry to Picton; and then bussed down to Kaikorua, Christchurch, and Queenstown. We drove to Milford Sound from Queenstown, hitchhiked to Dunedin, bussed to Invercargill, took a ferry to and from Rakiura (Stewart Island), and finally flew up to a farm near Nelson.
We used a working holiday visa to work on organic farms and lifestyle plots in exchange for room and board (WWOOFing). We WWOOFed in Auckland, Queenstown, and Lower Motueka. For additional lodging, we used numerous hostels and hotels. Hostel reviews and links to our WWOOF hosts’ pages are listed in additional notes after the daily accounts.
I provide the te reo Māori names for native bird species alongside the English names not only because both are regularly used but also to remember that many native species had a name before Captain Cook planted the Union Jack into Aotearoa’s soil. Māori people, language, and culture are well and alive in Aotearoa, and many words are common in mainstream New Zealand culture. As a few Māori language notes, the addition of an “S” does not make a noun plural, so please use many Tūī instead of Tūīs. The “WH” in Māori is also pronounced similarly to an English “F”.
After the daily accounts, I provide recommendations for traveling throughout the country, accommodation, a field guide, and species I missed, but I provide a few notes here first. Species are bolded if they are seen or heard for the first time on the trip (may not work on desktop). All monetary amounts are in NZ dollars. Please see my Flickr account julienuwr or my Instagram account @julienuwr for high resolution photos from the trip and additional wildlife photography. Flickr images and eBird checklists are linked in and after each daily account.
DAILY ACCOUNTS
21st of January: Auckland
Our 14 hour flight from San Francisco landed in the morning, and our WWOOF hosts Vic and Amanda were super kind and picked us up from the airport. On the drive to Mt. Eden, Rock Doves, House Sparrows, and Common Myna were abundant. Vic and Amanda have an incredible lifestyle plot and numerous flowering plants for wildlife. While watering the plants, we saw our first Tūī in a tree! Note that adults have the gorgeous bouncing poi on their chin while immatures have white wing flashes instead. A pair of spectacular yet non-native Eastern Rosellas also made an appearance in the trees above the garden. Later that day, our hosts generously drove us to Takapuna beach for a swim. A few Tōrea Pango (Variable Oystercatcher) plucked mollusks out of the tide pools. Tarāpunga (Red-billed Gull), Karoro (Black-backed Gull), and Welcome Swallow were also common, and we had a couple Tara (White-fronted Tern) fly past too ( Checklist).
22nd of January: Auckland
Today we, patched up a concrete walkway in the garden (YAY!) and spotted a couple Blackbird, Song Thrush, Riroriro (Grey Warbler/Gerygone), Pīwakawaka (Fantail), and Tūī, in the garden.
23rd of January: Auckland
We took a bus to Maungawhau (Mt Eden) and took a short hike up to the top. On our ascent, we saw Blackbird, Common Myna, Euasian Starling, and a Kōtare (Kingfisher) brutally killing a baby bird. While overlooking Auckland, we saw and heard Yellowhammer and Common Chaffinch. On our descent, we encountered a flock of native birds that included Tūī, Riroriro (Grey Warbler/Gerygone), Pīwakawaka (Fantail), many Tauhou (Silvereye), and two Pīpīwharauroa (Shining Bronze-Cuckoo) the only cuckoos of the trip ( Checklist).
24th of January: Auckland
We rented our car in the late afternoon from SNAP rentals and adjusted to driving on the left side. A visit to Mangere Lagoon in Ambury park produced European Goldfinch, Pūkeko (Australasian Swamphen) (udderly adorable) and a few chickens (lol) on the way down. The exposed lagoon had Tarāpunga (Red-billed Gull), Mallard, Spur-winged Plover (Masked Lapwing), White-faced Heron, Poaka (Pied Stilt), Kāhu (Harrier), and a bright white headed female Putangitangi (Paradise Shelduck)! Unfortunately, we did not have enough time to reach the sandspit or island, where most of the shorebirds are ( Checklist).
25th of January: Marsden Cove & Aroha Island
We had pre-booked a pelagic tour into the Hauraki Gulf with Wrybill Tours for $310 per person. They were the only pelagic operator we could find out of the North Island and our only chance to see many endemic seabirds. On our two hour drive up to Marsden Point, we spotted many Myna and a couple Wild Turkey. Once out of Auckland, the drive was incredible: sheep and cows abound across rolling green hills and forested mountains. We arrived just in time for our 10 am departure and quickly saw Tōrea (South Island Pied Oystercatcher or SIPO), Tōrea Pango (Variable Oystercatcher), and Kūaka (Bar-tailed Godwit) on the sandflat at high tide ( Checklist). In the harbor, we also sighted Tarāpunga (Red-billed Gull) and Kawaupaka (Little Pied Shag), both of which are common. Leaving Bream Head, Pakaha (Fluttering Shearwater) stuck low to the water, while larger Buller’s Shearwater and Toanui (Flesh-footed Shearwater) arced over waves ( Checklist). We even saw a diving Tākapu (Australasian Gannet)! We had good weather for a pelagic (no rain and sufficient wind for the tubenoses to feel comfortable near the boat)… but this weather is poor for the stomach. By our first chumming stop ( Checklist), I was already seasick, but got glimpses of Cook’s Petrel, a single Pycroft’s Petrel, Taiko (Black Petrel), tons of Toanui (Flesh-footed Shearwater), Buller’s Shearwater, Black-winged Petrel (which the guide mentioned was unusual), Titi Wainui (Fairy Prion), Takahikare-moana (White-faced Storm-Petrel), and the rediscovered, endemic New Zealand Storm-Petrel! Our second stop ( Checklist) produced less diversity, but 15 New Zealand Storm-Petrels hopping on the slick! Our last stop also had less diversity but another Black-winged Petrel ( Checklist). Separating Pycroft’s and Cook’s Petrel is extremely difficult and usually must be verified via photography, so make sure to see all ~10 possible Pycroft’s as usually only one or two have a dark enough head to be definite. Upon returning to the marina, we saw three Matuku moana (Pacific Reef-Heron) on the coast ( Checklist) and a few Tuturiwhatu (New Zealand Dotterel) on the low tide sandflat.
Photo of a Toanui or Flesh-footed Shearwater
After our six hour pelagic, we had to quickly drive up to Aroha Island, since check in closes at six. Our campsite on the beach was glorious, and after dinner we set out in search of the North Island Brown Kiwi. Armed with red light headlamps (disturbs kiwi less), we explored the trail on the west side of the island, heard a few males, and saw some rustling, but we had to go to sleep around one. To look for kiwi, one should listen for their calls, pinpoint their rustling, and then turn on their red light. A combination of waiting in a popular spot and covering ground was recommended to us. Also, a couple we met said that they saw many kiwi at Tāwharanui Regional Park.
26th of January: Aroha Island & Waitangi
I woke up at 550 in hopes of kiwi but only saw African Collared Dove alongside the usual suite of forest birds ( Checklist). A group of Mallard x Pacific Black Duck hybrids demonstrated every gradation between the two species, but we never found a pure Pacific Black Duck on our trip. I’d recommend this eBird article for identifying pure Pacific Black Ducks. Later in the day, we saw our first Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon), which was much bigger (and clumsier) than expected. In the afternoon, we visited the Waitangi Treaty grounds ($60 per person), which has a spectacularly carved Māori waka (boat), touching war memorial, and a beautiful cultural performance. Around dinner time, intermittent rain kicked in, which made hearing kiwi scurry more difficult. Though, everyone had more sightings than last night, including us! We spotted a small, silent North Island Brown Kiwi near the Cunningham Gardens ( Checklist). Apparently, this kiwi was an immature tresspasser that the resident pair, Hayden and Henrietta, were trying to evict from the island. We also heard the distinctive two note call of the Ruru (Morepork), but got no views.
27th of January: Northlands
During our rainy drive back to Auckland, there were moments where the wipers couldn’t handle it. Nevertheless, we had a less wet spell during a visit to Waipū in search of the New Zealand subspecies of the Fairy Tern, the Taraiti. The drive along Johnston Road produced gulls, Oystercatchers, Ring-necked Pheasant, California Quail, Eurasian Skylark, Tara (White-fronted Tern), and Karuhiruhi (Pied Shag), but no Taraiti (Fairy Tern) since the rain picked up ( Checklist). A guide from Wrybill tours mentioned that one flew over his head last week on Johnston Road.
28th of January: Auckland
After a day of gardening, we did a few hikes around South Auckland with our hosts. In a holding pond and nearby canal on Puketutu Island, we got better views of Putangitangi (Paradise Shelduck) and added European Greenfinch, Taranui (Caspian Tern), Canada Goose, Black Swan (some with babies!), a couple Little Black Shag, and a banded Tarāpunga (Black-billed Gull) to the trip list ( Checklist 1, Checklist 2). Note that many immature Tarāpunga (Red-billed Gull) have dark beaks but also dark eyes. We also saw our first Australian Magpie at Māngere Mountain ( Checklist), but we often heard them from the house later.
Photo of a White-faced Heron
29th of January: Auckland
On our rainy day, we went to the movies, where ice cream is the norm instead of popcorn. I think Americans, like myself, would be too messy for this tradition!
30th of January: Auckland
Today was Auckland Anniversary Day, which usually has hundreds of ships filling the harbor, but the rain kept them tied to the docks. Our hosts were extremely kind and drove us out to the Muriwai Gannet Colony ( Checklist). While the colony is nearly an hour away and there are no buses there, the colony was well worth it. Hundreds of Tākapu (Australasian Gannet) fight for space to raise their young on a cliff’s edge. This is also a great photo opportunity as some gannets are just off the boardwalk. Additionally, Liza spotted a Parasitic Jaeger harassing a Tara (White-fronted Tern)!
Photo of a Tākapu or Australasian Gannet flapping,
Photo of the Tākapu or Australasian Gannet colony with surfers,
Photo of the Tākapu or Australasian Gannet colony,
Photo of the Tākapu or Australasian Gannet colony low angle,
31st of January: Auckland
I spent the day helping Liza cook an incredible Korean dinner for our hosts and a couple of their neighbors.
1st of February: Auckland
With the day off, we visited the Auckland Art Gallery and the Auckland War Memorial Museum! Both were lovely with the latter being a much larger general museum. The Memorial Museum has a very expansive collection of art and artifacts from the Pacific Islands and a natural history section with a massive replica Moa.
2nd of February: Tiritiri Matangi
We woke up early to take the ferry out to Tiritiri Matangi. While we were easily able to book exploregroup’s ferry a few days before ($95 round trip per person ), one has to book a bed in the Department of Conservation bunkhouse (the only accommodation on the island) at least two months in advance during the peak season ($40 per bed per night). The ride over was calm with a couple gannets and Pakaha (Fluttering Shearwater), but the real fun began on the island. We checked out the small pond at the start of the Wattle Track for Pāteke (Brown Teal), but instead found a Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet). On the Wattle Track, Korimako (Bellbird) and Pōpokotea (Whitehead) were abundant with multiple of the latter feeding recently fledged young. We also found one female Hihi (Stitchbird) and our first Mātātā (Fernbird) (in some ferns no less!). We saw a few Tīeke (North Island Saddleback) and Toutouwai (North Island Robin) on the ground but heard them more often throughout our stay. Later on the short trek to the bunkhouse, we found a couple more Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet) and a Brown Quail in the dense forest ( Checklist).
Photo of a Korimako or Bellbird
Photo of a Tīeke or North Island Saddleback
Photo of a Pōpokotea or Whitehead
Photo of a Toutouwai or North Island Robin
Photo of a Kererū or New Zealand Pigeon
After seeing many Pūkeko (Swamphen), the resident Takahē family emerged onto the lawn later in the day: two adults and one immature! One family is seen near the lighthouse and another lives on the far side of the island. Just as we started our trek we heard the odd organ-like notes of North Island Kōkako and located this endemic around the visitor center. This species is more often heard high in the canopy than seen, so I’d recommend learning its song. We found most of the same species, including another Kōkako (oddly in the grass) and one other Hihi (Stitchbird). Though, we also heard the high peeps of a Tītipounamu (Rifleman) and got a brief glimpse of it crossing the trail between the Fisherman’s Bay Track and the East Coast track before we got rained out ( Checklist). The ranger said that they could be seen anywhere, including the bunkhouse. As evening approached and the rain calmed, we spotted a Tuatara along the trail to Hobbs Beach! While not a bird, the Tuatara has survived nearly unchanged for 250 million years and sits in a separate order from lizards and snakes. We first spotted Kororā (Little Penguin) inside the nesting boxes (place your phone camera on the dirty glass to get a better view) but also found one sitting in the tidepools ( Checklist). After the sunset, we turned on our red lights and searched for the Kiwi pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi). We heard seven on the Wattle Track, and another member of our group saw one behind the bunkhouse ( Checklist). After no views, I decided to take the Kawerau Track around the island but did not hear another kiwi call after ten. However, I did find another 14 Tuatara on the trail near the ocean! Half past midnight, I finally saw a Kiwi pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi) with its characteristic banding behind the bunkhouse! It was large and silent ( Checklist).
Photo of a Takahē feeding its child
Photo of a Tuatara under red light
3rd of February: Tiritiri Matangi
We woke up at 530 to look for kiwi but only heard them ( Checklist). However, we did get a great view of a Ruru (Morepork) near the visitor center. Afterward, I popped down to the Bunkhouse Dam and heard the characteristic barking of the Pāteke (Brown Teal) before getting a view of the pair. A researcher also told us that the Pāteke are not terribly tied to water and often trick kiwi spotters with their rustling at night. In the Dam pond, I also saw a pair of Mātātā (Fernbird) in the flax and possibly heard a Puweto (Spotless Crake) ( Checklist). It rained the rest of the day, ruining many birders’ day trips. Note that the day trip also only gives you four to five hours on the island, which may not be enough time for the Kōkako or Takahē. Though, a day trip would give you more flexibility to schedule your ferry on a day with good weather. The pond at the start of the Wattle Track also had a pair of Pāteke (Brown Teal) today.
While the ferry back was rainy and a little more rough, it was great for the seabirds! Buller’s Shearwater, Toanui (Flesh-footed Shearwater), Pakaha (Fluttering Shearwater), and Cook's Petrel were common, but I again got seasick ( Checklist 1, Checklist 2, Checklist 3).
4th of February: Auckland
We spent the day clearing and cleaning some backyard trails!
5th of February: Auckland
After weeding the driveway, I returned to the War Memorial Museum since our first visit was cut short by closing time.
6th of February: Waitomo
Waitangi Day is a national holiday that commemorates the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi between the British and hundreds of Māori tribes, establishing New Zealand. Please note that the treaty is very contested, as it was mistranslated into Māori.
We rented another car from SNAP and drove down to Waitomo to witness its famous glow worm caves. The Ruakuri cave had incredible stalactites, pillars, and opportunities to photograph glow worms. In the main Waitomo cave, we took a boat beneath an underground galaxy of bioluminescence– an absolute must do in Aotearoa, New Zealand!
Photo of hundreds of Glowworms on Stalactite
7th of February: Waitomo, Lake Taupo, Rotorua
While we stayed the night in Waitomo, I think I should have gunned it to Lake Taupo in the evening. I would also always add an extra 15-30 minutes onto your drive to plan for construction stops. On our way to Rotorua, we planned a quick stop at the Tongariro River to search for the Whio (Blue Duck). Half a kilometer downstream of Major’s Dam, we got lucky and found one in plain sight atop a boulder ( Checklist). Unfortunately, we did not have the time for any Lake Taupo hot springs or the 6-9 hour Tongariro Crossing, which many tourists said was the highlight of their trip, but we did make good time to Rotorua. After seeing hundreds of Tarāpunga (Red-billed Gull) and Karoro (Black-backed Gull) on our lakeside walk, we spotted a few Pāpango (New Zealand Scaup) floating near shore and diving in the center of the lake ( Checklist).
8th of February: Rotorua, Miranda Shorebird Center
Before visiting Te Puia, we stopped at Sulfur Point. In a quick visit, we found dozens of Pāpango (New Zealand Scaup) with chicks, a dozen domestic Greylag Goose, and a few Weweia (New Zealand Grebe) near the shore ( Checklist). If you only have a week in Aotearoa (New Zealand) I’d highly recommend Te Puia, because it has it all: kiwi viewing in a rehabilitation center, the largest geyser in the southern hemisphere, incredible Māori carvings, and a cultural performance. It’s $75 per person without the performance and an extra $45 for the buffet. On our way to the Miranda Shorebird Center, we stopped off at Hobbiton but only saw the $90 price tag… (after ten hours of driving across New Zealand it all feels like Middle Earth tbh). While we had known for weeks that we would only be able to visit Miranda at low tide, we got very lucky. Hundreds of Ngutuparore (Wrybill) filled the drained mudflat and murmurated over our heads. From a photo, I counted 809 individuals: roughly 15% of the 5300 that exist! I love the way they turn their heads to the left to pick up food with their bent beak. On the Marsh we also found a flock of Tete (Grey Teal), the endemic Tuturiwhatu (Banded Plover), and a flock of Royal Spoonbill overhead. ( Checklist)!
Photo of a few Ngutuparore or Wrybill in flight
Photo of a Ngutuparore or Wrybill flock flying
Photo of a Ngutuparore or Wrybill flock on a mudflat
Photo of a Ngutuparore or Wrybill flock taking flight
9th of February: Wellington
After returning the car and a quick flight to Wellington, we visited the Te Papa museum for its floor to ceiling contemporary Māori women’s art and its outstanding natural history exhibit (free admission). While the preserved Colossal Squid was the highlight (the heaviest invertebrate ever found), one can also see a mummified Moa foot, a Haast Eagle skull, and many taxidermied extinct bird species, including the Huia, Whēkau (Laughing Owl), and South Island Kōkako. Cuba Street has a lot of lovely eateries and shops too.
10th of February: Wellington, Cook’s Strait
We woke up early, checked out, and took the bus to Zealandia: a preserve with a towering fence to keep mammalian predators out. The entry fee is $24 per person, but it gives you free admission the next day too. Even before entering the preserve, we heard and saw Kākā overhead, but they were gorgeous (and cheeky) up close at the feeders, where we also saw a Dunnock. We had great views of a Tītipounamu (Rifleman) and a Tuatara, but we did not see any Takahē or Hihi (Stitchbird) ( Checklist). I would recommend more than the two hours we were limited to and the kiwi tour, where you have a very high chance of seeing the Kiwi pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi). Though, last night was fully booked more than a month prior, so we couldn’t do this opportunity.
We had booked our Interislander tickets by using Intercity’s Flexipass a month ago, which saved us a lot of hassle and money, especially as one of their usual ferries was shipping cargo and the other was clogged up with weather cancellations for weeks. Once out on the water, we were greeted by hundreds of Pakaha (Fluttering Shearwater), a Northern Giant-Petrel, a few White-capped Mollymawk (1st albatross of the trip!), a Titi Wainui (Fairy Prion), and a couple Westland Petrel. Though, we had very calm seas, and I’m sure rougher waters would produce more ( Checklist 1 & Checklist 2). While the views of the North Island hills were spectacular, they paled in comparison to the Marlborough Sounds. Among scattered islands, we saw a Parasitic Jaeger, a Little Black Shag, and many gulls, shearwaters, and Karuhiruhi (Pied Shag) ( Checklist). With their distinctive black head and white throat, I photographed a distant King Shag and a couple that flew very close to the boat. In Picton, we enjoyed a great, cheap, heaping pile of fish n chips from Paperfish and stayed in Atlantis Backpackers, which needed more staff and a deep clean.
11th of February: Picton
When in Picton, we wanted to make it to Blumine Island for the Orange-fronted Kākāriki or Malherbe’s Parakeet. While Cougar Line use to offer a cheaper water taxi to Blumine, they suspended their service last October, so we shelled out for Eko Tour’s afternoon option ($169 per person, 1.5 hrs on the island). We originally tried to do their Blumine and Motuara option, since it’s only $21 more for some time on Motuara and five hours on Blumine, but we could not book it due to a staffing shortage. Nevertheless, we really enjoyed our afternoon trip. On the way, we stopped off at a small shag colony, which gave us a lot of Parekareka (Spotted Shag) and a close view of a King Shag ( Checklist). We were essentially stuffed onto a dolphin & Motuara tour, so we also had great views of a pod of Hector’s Dolphin before being dropped off on Blumine. Note that you may have to get your feet wet depending on the tide. As our first day at a South Island bird sanctuary, we saw Weka, Tīeke (South Island Saddleback), Miromiro (Tomtit), and a dark morph Pīwakawaka (Fantail) ( Checklist). Just as we heard the boat’s engine for our pickup, I heard a parakeet and got great views of an Orange-fronted Kākāriki! While this is an easy bird for most who visit Blumine (Eko tour’s 95% success rate), I’d recommend either the Blumine & Motuara option for the five hours or staying the night. The latter is not an option on the website, but Eko is easy to email, and they just pick you up on the next day’s dolphin tour. You need a tent, but you also have a chance to see or hear the Rowi (Ōkārito Brown Kiwi) at night.
12th of February: Kaikoura
We got up early to take the Intercity bus from Picton to Kaikoura, which went smoothly. We checked into Albatross Backpackers, and took our pre-booked afternoon albatross tour with Gary at Albatross Encounters ($165 per person). Once the bait was out, the real fun began. Both Northern and Southern Toroa (Royal Albatross) swooped in and fought off Northern Giant Petrel and Gibson’s Wandering Albatross. The great albatrosses are a sight to see, so it is a must do for any birder visiting the South Island. We also had our first Salvin’s Albatross, White-chinned Petrel, Cape Petrel, and Tarapiroe (Black-fronted Tern) ( Checklist). Though, we did not get any Westland Petrel or Hutton’s Shearwater, and Gary said that the latter had migrated out early this year. On our way back, Gary took us to a rock with New Zealand Fur Seals, and he keenly spotted a pod of eight Hector’s Dolphin that got super close to the boat!
Photo of a Toroa or Southern Royal Albatross
13th of February: Kaikoura
We had pre booked a sperm whale trip with Whale Watch Kaikoura ($150 per person) and found that there were many opportunities to birdwatch on the upper deck while waiting for the whales. We saw many species of albatross and petrel and encountered a lot of Hutton’s Shearwater ( Checklist). Though, a Sperm Whale named Zeus was the star of the trip! On our way back we also encountered a massive pod of 300 Dusky Dolphins. In the afternoon, we took an Intercity bus to Christchurch.
Photo of aParāoa or Sperm Whale rainbow!
Photo of a Parāoa or Sperm Whale diving
Photo of a Dusky Dolphin pod landscape
14th of February: Christchurch
We had a lovely dinner at a Thai/Irish Pub for Valentine’s Day. Remember to have lamb in New Zealand!
15th of February: Christchurch
While our planned WWOOF hosts in Queenstown forgot we were coming, a winery was kind enough to take us in.
16th of February: Christchurch to Queenstown
We boarded the 8:30 Intercity bus to Queenstown, and explored the interior of the South Island. Under the midday sun, Lake Takapō reflected distant mountains and swimming Tarāpunga (Black-billed Gull). At our brief bus stop there, I looked for Black Stilt near shore and at the dam, but found none. We arrived in Queenstown in the early evening and took a local bus to the winery we would be working at.
17th of February: Queenstown
With few jobs on our first day at the winery, we decided to explore the south end of Lake Hayes. Eurasian introductions were common, especially Dunnock, while only one Tūī was spotted. My highlights were a sunbathing Kawau (Great Shag), additional Pāpango (New Zealand Scaup), a few Eurasian Coot, and a couple Pūteketeke (Great Crested Grebe) families. Some adults even had babies on their backs! ( Checklist)
18th of February: Queenstown
The next morning, I woke up early to photograph the grebes and saw a Lesser Redpoll in the vineyard. I counted 55 adult grebes floating on the center of Lake Hayes ( Checklist). Later in the night, we helped cater a 96 person wedding!
Photo of a Pūteketeke or Great Crested Grebe
19th of February: Queenstown
With less work, we took the number two bus into the central business district (CBD) of Queenstown and really enjoyed Patagonia ice cream. The Queenstown gardens had a lovely rose garden and a fun series of space related skits during our visit but little new bird life ( Checklist).
20th of February: Aoraki, Mt. Cook
We rented another car from SNAP rentals Frankton, Queenstown, and drove three hours to Aoraki, Mt. Cook in search of Kakī (Black Stilt). While we found no stilts on the rocky shores of the spectacular Lake Pukaki, we did have luck by the Glentanner Airport. After taking the trail from the camp to the lake, we went north and scoped out the marsh at the end of the braided riverbeds. There, we saw a couple Tuturiwhatu (Banded Plover) alongside Black Swan, Putangitangi (Paradise Shelduck), many Tarapiroe (Black-fronted Tern), and a clear Kakī (Black Stilt)! Two more were about a kilometer further out along the marshy shoreline ( Checklist). Make sure to keep your distance from this endangered endemic. We drove past the Mt. Cook Airport, but didn’t find a real access point to the braided riverbeds. The Tasman Glacier was incredible after a short hike.
Photo of Putangitangi or Paradise Shelduck over Lake Pukaki
21st of February: Fiordland National Park
We bolted off from Queenstown to the Homer Tunnel east entrance parking lot to arrive before the rain. On the way, we briefly spotted a Muscovy Duck on the side of the road and many Kāhu (Harrier). After 3.5 hours of driving, the parking lot was under construction, so we parked a kilometer down the road and trekked up the dry river bed. As it began to rain, I watched a couple Kea chasing another one over the valley. After an hour in the rain, we drove down to the Lake Gunn trail. Liza was tired, so I did the short loop alone ( Checklist). Surrounded by ancient beech trees and carpets of moss, I saw a Miromiro (Tomtit), Kakaruwai (South Island Robin), a Pīpipi (Brown Creeper), a few Kākā, and lots of Tītipounamu (Rifleman).
22nd of February: Milford Sound
We woke up early to make the 9 o’clock Southern Discoveries Discover More Tour in Milford Sound ($129 per person). Beyond the jaw dropping scenery, we saw hundreds of Tītī (Sooty Shearwater), gulls, Tara (White-fronted Tern), and a lone Kōtuku (White Heron) at the aquarium ( Checklist). Unfortunately, the pair of molting Tawaki (Fiordland Penguins) were secretive as usual on our way out of the cove. We left blue skies in Milford Sound for intermittent rain on the east side of the Homer Tunnel. Though, we heard peeps along the river bed between the grass and eventually saw a pair of Pīwauwau (Rock Wren) further up ( Checklist). We did the Lake Gunn loop again and found more birds, but no Pīpipi (Brown Creeper) ( Checklist). We drove back to Queenstown that night and returned the car the next morning.
23rd of February: Queenstown
To give us some time to rest, we checked into our stay at the Queenstown Holiday Inn.
24th of February: Queenstown
I spent the day birding from the room’s porch and eventually saw a Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon) fly past in the late afternoon.
25th of February: Queenstown
We did not go birding but had some lovely take out from Bombay Palace.
26th of February: Queenstown
I spent another day birding from the porch and watched another Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon) fly past, perch on a tree across the highway, and fly over with a mouse in its clutches.
27th of February: Dunedin
Unfortunately, we missed our Intercity bus to Dunedin by ten minutes and decided to hitchhike. Hitchhiking is common in New Zealand, but many told us that you will have better luck on the more populated North Island. After taking the bus out to the edge of town, we hitchhiked to a better spot on the highway, Cromwell, Alexandra, and finally out to Dunedin after four generous rides. We also saw an Indian Peafowl on the way. While we missed our planned Sea to City Tour with Monarch Cruises, the two women who drove us to Dunedin invited us to look for seals with them. From the mainland jetty across from the tip of the Otago Peninsula, we could see Toroa (Northern Royal Albatross) in the grass and soaring over Tairoa Head. Liza also spotted a Kororā (Little Penguin) and a Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguin) in some kelp near shore. After an hour's drive, we drove over to the Albatross Center parking lot and enjoyed albatross flying over our heads for free. Finally, we visited Allan’s Beach, where we saw New Zealand Sea Lions and resting Leopard Seals.
28th of February: Dunedin
We spent the day thrift shopping in Dunedin, taking the Intercity bus to Invercargill, and settling into Southern Comfort Backpackers.
1st of March: Invercargill & Rakiura (Stewart Island)
With many eBird sightings of a rare Erect-crested Penguin near Invercargill, I booked an 8 am taxi with Ezi, which was lovely and affordable. My 8AM taxi stopped off at Waituna Lagoon briefly before going to the beach at the end of the road. At Waituna, there was the usual suite of wetland birds, including a few Greylag Geese and Kuruwhengu (Australasian Shoveler) ( Checklist). Unfortunately, I did not find the Erect-crested Penguin on the beach, but I did see a few Ruddy Turnstone, flyover godwits, and a few Hector’s Dolphin offshore. After the taxi returned me to my hostel, the ferry’s shuttle service ($30 per person) picked us up and took us to Bluff. While RealNZ’s ferry to Rakiura ($99 each way per person) was fast, it was still a pelagic with a pod of Kororā (Little Penguin), a handful of Kuaka (Common Diving-Petrel), dozens of White-capped Mollymawk behind fishing vessels, and hundreds of Tītī (Sooty Shearwater) near the Tītī/Muttonbird Islands ( Checklist). We saw one Stewart Island Shag on the Bluff Marina but many more in Stewart Island waters. On our walk up to a Grand View Backpackers, Tūī, Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon), and Tauhou (Silvereye) were abundant while sightings of Kākā, Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet), Korimako (Bellbird), and Pīwakawaka (Fantail) were common. From the porch, we could see White-capped Mollymawk soar over the Halfmoon Bay harbor.
2nd of March: Rakiura (Stewart Island)
While we had pre-booked a water taxi from Golden Bay harbor (a 20 min walk) to Ulva Island with Rakiura Charters ($25 per person round trip), we could have done it the day before with any company. Just as we left the harbor, we were lucky enough to see a Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguin) off the stern! On Ulva Island ( Checklist), Kakaruwai (South Island Robin) were abundant, but we only saw a few Tīeke (South Island Saddleback) and Kākāriki (Red-crowned Parakeet). Birdsong was limited, but a ranger told us this was a quiet day. Nevertheless, we did find a couple flocks of Pīpipi (Brown Creeper), a small group of Kākāriki (Yellow-crowned Parakeet), and a single family of Mōhua (Yellowhead). Photography wise, Weka scavenging on the beach was a real highlight, but watch out for the New Zealand Sea Lions.
Photo of Weka scavenging
Hoping to take advantage of the high winds, I did the hike out to the Acker’s Point Lighthouse in search of wayward pelagics ( Checklist). Among many Tītī (Sooty Shearwater), Tara (White-fronted Tern), and White-capped Mollymawk, I spotted a single Buller’s Mollymawk. After a massive fish ‘n chip dinner at Kai Kart, we were told to look out for Kororā (Little Penguin) returning from the sea in the evening. A little after sunset, we watched a handful of Kororā swim to the rocks to the left of the Halfmoon Bay Wharf. While we went a kilometer out of town to look for kiwi on the side of the road, we stumbled upon a Tokoeka (South Island Brown Kiwi) probing a lawn right in town! Unfortunately, a Ruggedy Range Tour surrounded the kiwi on their property and prevented us from viewing it any further.
3rd of March:
I woke up around 3:30 am to look for the aurora, but found another kiwi on a lawn in town instead! In the afternoon, I birded nearby Wading Beach and its small estuary, but only found a few Mallards, Putangitangi (Paradise Shelduck), Kōtare (Kingfisher), gulls, and a White-faced Heron ( Checklist). That night, we heard a kiwi right next to our hostel, found the same kiwi in town again, and found another kiwi across the street. We simply sat still on the sidewalk near one, and it approached us for some lovely photos and videos (at times less than a meter away).
Photo of a Tokoeka or South Island Brown Kiwi
4th of March:
On another relaxing day, we fished off the wharf and immediately saw a Buller’s Mollymawk among many White-capped Mollymawk. That night, we saw the same kiwi we saw yesterday in town.
5th of March:
We had tried to book a half day pelagic tour with Rakiura Charters, but they had a minimum fare of three people. While we could have paid the extra $145, we opted for their Paterson Inlet Tour at $135 per person, which had already met the minimum fare. We left Half Moon Bay at 10, dropped some people off at Ulva, and headed out to the mouth of the Inlet for an hour pelagic. Close views of White-capped, Buller’s, and a Southern Royal Albatross were the highlights ( Checklist). After telling the skipper that I was interested in the Tawaki (Fiordland Penguin), he drove over to a pair near Acker’s Point that had fresh, beautiful plumage! Unfortunately, we saw no Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguin) at the aquaculture farms or a nearby nesting colony, even though they are fairly common there. However, we did catch a few Royal Spoonbill resting on a gum tree near an old whaling settlement. That night, I checked the large grass park on Golden Bay Road, found no kiwi there, but found a continuing individual from in town. I also found another right next to my hostel!
Photo of a Buller’s Mollymawk
6th of March:
We revisited Ulva Island for fun with Rakiura Charters and did the full loop to West End Beach ( Checklist). On our way, we found a few Yellow-crowned Kākāriki (Parakeet), scattered Tīeke (Saddleback), and two flocks of Mōhua (Yellowhead)– one with over ten individuals. While eating lunch on the beach, a Weka snuck up on me and bit my sandwich! Please do not feed them to further habituate them to people. At the Halfmoon Bay Wharf, many albatross were right off the dock and a Kororā (Little Penguin) cruised around the surface before resting on a rock ( Checklist). That night, we found the same kiwi as our first night in town but it was surrounded by over fifty people including two tour groups.
Photo of a Kororā or Little Penguin swimming!
Photo of a Kororā or Little Penguin close!
Photo of a Weka posing on the beach!
Photo of a Kakaruwai or South Island Robin on Liza’s shoe
Photo of a Kakaruwai or South Island Robin on a stick
Photo of a Kakaruwai or South Island Robin on the beach!
Photo of a Tarāpunga or Red-billed Gull landscape
7th of March:
On the ferry back to Bluff, activity was low, but I did find a couple Cook's Petrel ( Checklist). From Invercargill, we flew, taxied, and hitchhiked to our next WWOOF hosts in Motueka: Jack and Joanna!
Photo of a Tītī or Sooty Shearwater in flight
8th of March:
Among our host’s off-grid house, garden, and orchard, House Sparrows, Pīwakawaka (Fantail), Tauhou (Silvereye), and Korimako (Bellbird) were abundant with the occasional Riroriro (Grey Warbler/Gerygone) or California Quail. I caught and safely removed three sparrows that were stuck in the berry patch.
9th of March:
While weeding the garden, I spotted a pair of Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon) flying overhead around noon and saw them again in the late afternoon.
10th of March:
A fellow WWOOFer with a car kindly let us come with her to Motueka Spit. With the tide going out, we saw hundreds of Tōrea (South Island Pied Oystercatcher) among the rocks and a few Tōrea Pango (Variable Oystercatcher), Kūaka (Bar-tailed Godwit), Tuturiwhatu (Banded Plover), Kōtare (Kingfisher), and Ruddy Turnstone. On the mudflat between the mainland and the spit, we saw Poaka (Pied Stilt), many more godwits, and hundreds of Huahou (Red Knot) ( Checklist).
Photo of a Tōrea or South Island Pied Oystercatcher flock landscape
11th of March:
In the late afternoon, I took a trail near the house through a mix of grassland and forestry. I immediately saw a Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon) perch atop a pine and get harassed by a group of Welcome Swallows. Among the many Pīwakawaka (Fantail), I saw a single black morph. Around 9 pm, I took the trail again and continued into a patch of native bush in search of Great Spotted Kiwi. I saw possums, a hedgehog, and heard many Ruru (Morepork), but I did not see or hear a kiwi.
12th of March:
On another birding hike at sunset, I was fortunate enough to find a Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon) on a close branch for photography.
13th of March:
I woke up at sunrise to bird the native bush during the daytime. While I was rained out, bird diversity was pretty low with a handful of Korimako (Bellbird), Tūī, and Pīwakawaka (Fantail).
14th of March:
Inspired by our host’s sustainable lifestyle, I decided to do a big day by bike to finish off the trip (Trip Report with Checklists). I started with a morning walk down the usual pine forest edge trail for California Quail, Korimako (Bellbird), and introduced Passerines. I then biked 12 kilometers through rolling orchards to the Motueka Sandspit. On the way, I picked up a pair of Tūī, which have been uncommon without the blooming Harakeke (flax) flowers . The pasture and shoreline near the sandspit provided plenty of ducks, waders, oystercatchers, some surprise spoonbill, and a lone Cape Barren Goose! I walked another four kilometers out onto the sandspit to find a couple Taranui (Caspian Tern), dozens of Tuturiwhatu (Banded Plover) and Bar Tailed Godwit, and a hundred Ruddy Turnstone. Though a rare Gull-billed Tern stole the show! On my way back, I spotted a few Kawau (Great Shag) at the mouth of the estuary, and on a sunset bird, I spotted a lone Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon). That night, I heard a Ruru (Morepork) to finish the day at 41 species (the New Zealand day record is 70).
15th of March:
Our hosts found someone in the community who could drop us off at the airport on his way to Nelson in the morning, and from the car, I spotted a Kōtuku (White Heron) as we crossed the Moutere River. Before our evening flight, I walked the nine kilometer perimeter track around the airport to find many skylarks, oystercatcher, stilts, Tete (Grey Teal), and a Taranui (Caspian Tern) ( Checklist).
16th of March:
We had a lovely morning in Auckland with our first hosts, Vic and Amanda, before boarding an afternoon flight back to the states. In total, we found 127 species and can’t wait to visit this island nation again!
NOTES
Field Guide:
Honestly, I used Merlin alone for most outings, but you need a solid field guide for the trip as well. While Merlin has needed vocalizations and the New Zealand pack is comprehensive, it does not have the New Zealand range for introduced species and even some endemic species.
I’d highly recommend the Heather, Robertson, & Onley guide. Their light hand guide is sufficient and completely comprehensive, but I also found the notes in the field guide useful (and fun) for further behavior and habitat information. Both have crucial seasonal information for each species, describe how common some species actually are, and have complete range maps for all non-vagrant species. Purchase the 2015 edition as there are many endemic species splits and the rediscovered New Zealand Storm-Petrel. I also used their list of recommended birding locations to plan this trip.
While not a field guide, New Zealand Birds Online is a fabulous website with detailed life history information and photos for every species.
Gear:
After binoculars, I would recommend bringing a camera. One with good autofocus is very helpful for pelagic birding and necessary for differentiating Pycroft’s from Cook’s Petrels. I use a Canon D7 mark II DSLR and Canon EF 100-400mm IS lens combination.
We did not have the room to pack a spotting scope, but it would have been useful for all of our shore birding, especially while looking for Black Stilt at Glentanner.
New Zealand trip reports I reviewed:
Pete Aley, 2015
Steve and Ann Newman, 2006
Notes for missed species:
Long-tailed Koel: while their activity peaks in November, Koel are still sighted on eBird into February during their migration. Some overwinter in the Northlands, but they are quiet and reclusive.
New Zealand Pipit: At the Nelson Airport, near the Motueka Sandspit, at Aoraki (Mt. Cook), and Miranda, I passed through a lot of possible habitat, but only found dozens of Eurasian Skylark, which have a similar flight call. eBird data suggests that this uncommon endemic may be declining.
Rowi (Ōkārito Brown Kiwi): only a dozen are on Blumine, so your best bet is to take a trip at Ōkārito Kiwi Tours with Ian, who has some individuals radio tagged and responds to his email very quickly. Though, you need a car to get to Okirito.
Great Spotted Kiwi: One guide on Wrybill Tours told me you could stand over one that’s calling, and you’d never see it. Though, they are supposedly often heard on Arthur’s pass.
New Zealand Travel Tips:
Note that gas or petrol is expensive in New Zealand and was around $2.45/Liter during our stay (5.77 USD per gallon).
We purchased our travel insurance from Orbit Protect, which had cheap rates, generally low excess and a baggage protection option.
As under 25 travelers, SNAP rentals provided cheap, good quality car rentals and did not charge an underage fee.
Most shops, pharmacies, and more close by five.
Foodwise: Everywhere has great fish and chips, but Paperfish in Picton was our favorite and had kumara fries (New Zealand yam). Ask for a lemonade and they will give you L&P, which is a better Sprite imo.
Thrift some wool or fur clothing. Wool is much cheaper than in the states.
As Americans: Remember to look right first when crossing the street. When driving, “left turn little turn; right turn big turn” & stay on the left on unmarked roads. Also, dates are always day/month/year.
WWOOF Hosts:
Vic and Amanda were fantastic hosts and a lovely introduction to WWOOFing. During our two week stay, we weeded the garden, turned the compost, cooked, cleaned, and paved a walkway! They have thoughtfully utilized their city plot for a vegetable garden, composting, and water collection, and we learned so much about New Zealand culture, sustainability, and the arts from them. They were very flexible with work times and accommodating of different abilities/interests.
Jack and Joanna were wonderful hosts, and we wish we'd had time to stay longer! Their plot is lovingly and carefully designed to minimize energy and water consumption, and we learned so much from their lifestyle and our conversations about climate. We were able to do a range of tasks including weeding, pig-proofing the property, harvesting berries and orchard fruit, cooking, preserving, and more. They were very flexible with work times and accommodating of different abilities/interests.
Hostel Reviews:
Rotorua: Rock Solid Backpackers. No complaints
Wellington: Trek Global Backpackers. Showers could be cleaner
Picton: Atlantis Backpackers. Free dessert and breakfast was nice, but the whole place needs a deep clean. Waited for a receptionist for an hour and found a diaper under our bed
Kaikoura: Albatross Backpackers. Very cute common area and clean showers
Christchurch: UrbanZ Backpackers. Hot room with no windows and found a bedbug, but won a beer from the bar!
Te Anau: Lakeview Kiwi Holiday Park & Motels. Fine enough, but no bowls and only wooden utensils
Queenstown: Holiday Inn. An actual hotel, so very nice with a view of the lake.
Dunedin: Leviathan Hotel. Close to downtown. No complaints
Invercargill: Southern Comfort Backpackers. Clean with a cute outdoor area
Rakiura (Stewart Island): a Grand View Backpackers. You pay for the view in sweat, but the view is lovely. You have to call to book a room, pay in cash, and only get a fridge and a microwave for cooking. We had the whole place to ourselves and could have likely booked the day of. Stewart Island Backpackers and most other lodges were booked out over two months in advance for a week’s stay.
Thank you for reading it all and have a great day!
Tokoeka (Southern Brown Kiwi)
North Island Brown Kiwi
Kiwi pukupuku (Little Spotted Kiwi)
Greylag Goose
Canada Goose
Cape Barren Goose
Black Swan
Putangitangi (Paradise Shelduck)
Whio (Blue Duck)
Kuruwhengu (Australasian Shoveler)
Mallard
Tete (Grey Teal)
Pāteke (Brown Teal)
Pāpango (New Zealand Scaup)
California Quail
Wild Turkey
Ring-necked Pheasant
Brown Quail
Weweia (New Zealand Grebe)
Pūteketeke (Great Crested Grebe)
Rock Pigeon
African Collared-Dove
Spotted Dove
Kererū (New Zealand Pigeon)
Pīpīwharauroa (Shining Bronze-Cuckoo)
Weka
Eurasian Coot
South Island Takahē
Pūkeko (Australasian Swamphen)
Poaka (Pied Stilt)
Kakī (Black Stilt)
Tōrea (South Island Oystercatcher)
Tōrea Pango (Variable Oystercatcher)
Masked Lapwing (Spur-winged Plover)
Tuturiwhatu (New Zealand or Red-breasted Dotterel)
Banded Dotterel (Double-banded Plover)
Ngutuparore (Wrybill)
Kūaka (Bar-tailed Godwit)
Ruddy Turnstone
Huahou (Red Knot)
Parasitic Jaeger
Tarāpunga (Black-billed Gull)
Silver Gull
Karoro (Black-backed or Kelp Gull)
Gull-billed Tern
Taranui (Caspian Tern)
Tarapiroe (Black-fronted Tern)
Tara (White-fronted Tern)
Hoiho (Yellow-eyed Penguin)
Kororā (Little Penguin)
Tawaki (Fiordland Penguin)
Buller's Albatross or Mollymawk
White-capped Albatross or Mollymawk
Salvin's Albatross or Mollymawk
Toroa (both Northern and Southern Royal Albatross seen)
Wandering Albatross (Gibson’s)
Takahikare-moana (White-faced Storm-Petrel)
New Zealand Storm-Petrel
Northern Giant-Petrel (Nelly)
Cape Petrel (Cape Pigeon)
Black-winged Petrel
Cook's Petrel
Pycroft's Petrel
Titi Wainui (Fairy Prion)
White-chinned Petrel
Taiko (Black or Parkinson's Petrel)
Westland Petrel
Toanui (Flesh-footed Shearwater)
Buller's Shearwater
Tītī (Sooty Shearwater)
Hutton's Shearwater
Pakaha (Fluttering Shearwater)
Kuaka (Common Diving-Petrel)
Tākapu (Australasian Gannet)
Kawaupaka (Little Pied Shag or Cormorant)
Kawau (Great Shag or Cormorant)
Parekareka (Spotted Shag)
Little Black Shag (or Cormorant)
Karuhiruhi (Pied Shag or Cormorant)
New Zealand King Shag
Stewart Island Shag
Kōtuku (White Heron or Great Egret)
White-faced Heron
Matuku moana (Pacific Reef-Heron)
Royal Spoonbill
Kāhu (Swamp Harrier)
Ruru (Morepork)
Kōtare (Sacred Kingfisher)
Kārearea (New Zealand Falcon)
Kea
New Zealand Kākā
Red-crowned Kākāriki (Parakeet)
Yellow-crowned Kākāriki (Parakeet)
Orange-fronted Kākāriki (Malherbe's Parakeet)
Eastern Rosella
Tītipounamu (Rifleman)
Pīwauwau (Rock Wren or South Island Wren)
Tūī
Korimako (New Zealand Bellbird)
Riroriro (Grey Warbler or Gerygone)
Pōpokotea (Whitehead)
Mōhua (Yellowhead)
Pīpipi (Brown Creeper)
Australian Magpie
Pīwakawaka (New Zealand Fantail)
North Island Kōkako
Tīeke (North Island Saddleback)
South Island Saddleback
Hihi (Stitchbird)
Toutouwai (North Island Robin)
Kakaruwai (South Island Robin)
Miromiro (Tomtit)
Eurasian Skylark
Mātātā (New Zealand Fernbird)
Welcome Swallow
Tauhou (Silvereye)
European Starling
Common Myna
Song Thrush
Eurasian Blackbird
Dunnock
House Sparrow
Common Chaffinch
European Greenfinch
Lesser Redpoll
European Goldfinch
Yellowhammer