Birding The Gambia, 28th January to 18th February 2002

1. General information

This report is based upon a trip to The Gambia from January 28th. till February 18th. 2002. The tour members were Willy Aelvoet, Luc De Rutter, Andrea Dhondt, Gerard Mornie, Willy Vandeputte, and Ann Vandriessche.

The Gambia is situated in West Africa, at the Atlantic coast. It's a stretch of land, some 320 km long, north and south of the river Gambia. Inland, the longest distance from N. to S. is only 35 km. At the coast this is almost 70 km. The surface is about 11.000 sq. km.

The landscape is dominated by the river Gambia. Where the river is tidal (up to 200 km inland) mangroves are abundant. The North bank is, due to desertification, largely covered with desert scrub while the South bank is more savannah - like. Little is left of the original gallery (riverine) forest (e.g. Abuko). Quite new to the landscape (and very "birdy") are the tourist areas with flower - filled gardens and park - like vegetation.

For more information (if not ALL information) about the Gambia, take a look at http://www.gambia.yucom.be/start.html, a splendid site and meeting point for Gambia - lovers. Or surf around and read some Gambia - reports. (see later).

2. Flight and Visa

We booked a package holiday with the tour - operator "Travelworld". Our Hotel : Badala Park Hotel, Kotu, The Gambia. Tel 460400, Fax 460401. For more details about the hotel see : http://www.gambia.yucom.be/start.html. Flight and hotel (incl. breakfast) cost EURO 802 for two weeks and EURO 940 for three weeks. Total price (all included) of the trip was about EURO 1240. per person for two weeks and EURO 1560 for those who stayed three weeks. We had a good direct flight from Maastricht to Banjul International Airport on a Dutchbird Airlines - Boeing 757. Flight - time was about 6 hours. For EU citizens, an international passport (valid six months after return) is required to visit The Gambia.

3. Money

The Gambian currency is the Dalasi, which was at the time of our visit rated D14 to 1 Euro. Money exchange offices are found at the coast and in the major cities (Banjul, Serekunda,...). All coastal hotels have a change - desk as well but rates are a bit more expensive (but it was ever so easy, without formalities. You just put Your foreign currency on the desk and a handful of dalasi is handed over. It just takes twenty seconds). Our Hotel gave D17 for 1 U.S.Dollar, where as the Change offices gave D18. You can also change money in the streets (and it's not a "black market"; it's perfectly legal). The best rate we had "on the road" was D18,40 to 1 U.S. Dollar. Take U.S. dollars, British Pounds or Euro.

4. Accommodation

The package holiday hotels are all situated at the coast. We had some overnight stays in the inland: in Tendaba Camp (2x) and in Baobolong Camp (Georgetown). There we slept in basic but good accommodation. See useful adresses.

5. Food and drink

Food was good to very good , with a meal costing around D60. African, European and Chinese food gave us a sufficiant variety. Don't leave The Gambia without having tried chicken benachin, beef domada, ladyfish and barracuda. A bottle of local Julbrew - beer (which is definitely o.k. ) was priced D9 to D25 for a 280 ml. bottle. Food did not cause us any health - problems, but care is to be taken....

6. Health and safety

At the time of our visit a Yellow Fever vaccination was inquired (although we didn't have to show our "vaccination certificate" anywhere. Malaria - tablets (e.g. Lariam - EURO 27) is strongly advised, even in the dry season and is a must in the wet season.

7. Language

English is spoken everywhere. No problem at all. No need to learn Mandinka, Wolof, Fula or another one of the approx. 30 local - languages.

8. Weather and best time to visit The Gambia

As we visited the Gambia in the dry season (November to March - also the best time to visit), we had pleasant weather all the time with temperatures reaching far in the 30's ° C. every day. Between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. it is advised to take a break. So do the birds, You won't miss a thing. Best time for birding was from 7.30 a.m. (dawn) till 11 a.m. and from 3 p.m. till 7.30 p.m. (dusk) and that's what we did every day !

9. Transport and roads

Don't even think of driving your own rented car. The roads are bad and signs are very scarce. Taxi's are everywhere. Prices vary from ridiculously cheap (Bush Taxi - kind of minivans that take up to twenty people plus luggage such as big bags, chickens, goats etc... But do give it a try !) to as expensive as in Belgium (tourist taxi). Prices are negotiated before getting in. At the hotels tourist - taxirates are shown on a board. Still you can "pull down" the price...

For four days we had a deal with Alhagie Drammeh (see useful addresses). We were charged D5.300 for 6 persons which included a minivan with driver, the services of the guide and not to be forgotten : a cooler with 96 bottles of Julbrew and 48 bottles of coke. Alhagie 'Alex' Drammeh was our "mister fix it all" who arranged everything, such as overnight stays in Tendaba Camp and Baobolong Camp (Georgetown), a boat trip in Tendaba, and the "shopping" on the road. He knows all the sites and is a reliable man. Recommended !

There are a few Birding - sites where it is definitely not necessary to hire a guide. At least when you enjoy identifying birds on your own, like we do. As you won't drive by yourself, the Freytag & Berndt road map "Gambia 1:400000" (available everywhere in Europe) is o.k.

10. Birdlife and Birding sites

The Gambian bird-list contains over 500 species (Clements indicates 511), which is quite rich for such a small country. It is easy to see half of them during a two weeks stay and without doing strong efforts...

Birdy places are everywhere, except maybe for the town center of Serekunda where the only birds seem to be the Hooded Vultures soaring overhead. Some Birding hotspots we visited deserve however to be mentioned and strongly recommended. For details and maps see Rod Ward's "Birdwatchers Guide to The Gambia".

A. Coastal area

Kotu creek : Casino cycle track and Fajara Golf course. Within walking distance of Badala Park

Bijilo Forest : Also known as "the monkey-park". Near Senegambia Hotel.

Tanji Bird Reserve : Just before entering the village of Tanji. A nice lagoon and birdy bushes. A remote place but after the walk you can have a drink in the Paradise Inn Lodge. Just ask your driver, he'll know the place.

Abuko Forest : It's famous and birdy ! Do it at least twice !

Brufut Woods : Without guide you probably won't find it. But it's a good site.

Marakissa Woods : The woods, a swampy area, the deserted Jahsu River Camp and the surroundings of Darsilami village. All good but you'll need a guide. Alex lives in Darsilami so he knows the site !

Mandina Ba : The well known site for Hadada Ibis. But also good for other birds !

B. Inland

Pirang : The site for Black Crowned Cranes. A walk around will take two hours.

Faraba Banta Bush track : Take Modou Colley as your guide. He lives in Faraba Banta and knows the track very well. Besides he is keen on raptors. We saw 17 species of raptors in one morning ! Recommended !

Tendaba : Don't miss this place ! Do the boat trip !

Kiang West N.P. : A short stop near Batteling produced a lot of rare birds. But it's a big reserve.

Bansang Quarry : The Red Throated Bee-eater's colony !!! And a lot of finches at close range !

11. Taxonomy and nomenclature

The English names follow James F. Clements "Birds of the world - a checklist" (5th edition - 2000) De Nederlandse namen zijn volgens "Complete Checklist Vogels van de Wereld", M.Walters in vertaling A.J. Van Loon. Uitg. Tirion.

12. Acknowledgements

Thanks to all the birders who faced the job to make a report about their trip to the Gambia. Thanks to Luc Vandertrappen for the cd's with African bird sounds.

13. References

A) General literature : In Dutch ! Reishandboek Gambia by Paul De Waard. ISBN 90389 03359.
B) Birding guides. One book is a must : A field guide to the birds of The Gambia and Senegal by Clive Barlow, Tim Wacher and Tony Disley. ISBN 1-873403-32-1.

For preparing the trip : A Birdwatchers Guide to The Gambia by Rod Ward. ISBN 1-871104-04-1.

For taxonomy and nomenclature : James F. Clements. Birds of the World. A Check List.(5th edition - 2000). ISBN 1-873403-93-3.

C) Bird sounds. We used the following CD - series (15 CD's !) trying to learn some easy sounds. With success! Oiseaux d' Afrique - Les oiseaux du nord, de l'ouest, du centre de l' Afrique et des iles atlantiques voisines. By Claude Chappuis avec la coloboration de la British Library (Londres).

D) Trip Reports. Among the numerous reports found on the internet, I wish to recommend the following usefull ones. Sorry if I missed other good ones.

The Gambia (20th - 27th January 1997) by Jan Vermeulen
Trip Report : The Gambia, November 1-8, 1998 by Gruff Dodd, Cymru
Trip Report for The Gambia, December 1st-15th 2000 by Howard 'Oscar' Orridge
Bird Trip Report : The Gambia, Oct. 31 - Nov. 8, 1998 by Dirk Vanackere and Marc Tailly.

14. Useful addresses

Although we did a lot of birding on our own, we hired two guides :

1) For the four day's trip upriver and the visit at Marakissa Woods our guide was :

Alhagie 'Alex' Drammeh
Place Serekunda
The Gambia
Tel.: 373997
e-mail : drammehalhagie@yahoo.co.uk

2) For the trips to Faraba Banta and to Brufut Woods our guide was :

Modou Colley
c/o PMB 733, Serekunda Post Office
The Gambia
Tel.: 908916
e-mail : mcolley99@yahoo.com

Both of them did a good job and we can recommend them to everyone wanting to travel around in The Gambia. At this moment we still keep in touch with them by e-mail !

3) The second half of our stay we always hired the same taxi-driver. A very punctual, reliable man and a friendly nice bloke ! He is found at the Badala Park Taxi meeting point. His address :

Jalamma Cham
c/o Ansu N'dong
P.O.Box 4211 Bakau
Cape ST. Mary division
The Gambia

4) During our trip upriver, we slept in the following camps :

Tendaba Camp
Booking : tel. 220-541024, Fax : 220-541030
E-mail : tendaba@quantumnet.gm

Price : D165 p.p. Restaurant "à la carte".

Baobolong Camp
Jangjangburreh
Booking : tel. 220-676133
Price : D175 including a buffet-style evening meal

Both places were good, including the food !

If you need more information about this trip (sites, species,...) :

Willy AELVOET
Nederholbeekstraat 136
B 9680 MAARKEDAL - BELGIUM
Tel. 055/31.67.30
willy.aelvoet@pandora.be

Gerard MORNIE
Sint Amandusstraat 1
B 9700 OUDENAARDE - BELGIUM
Tel. 055/31.80.67
gerard.mornie@advalvas.be

15. Daily log

28/1/02 - travel

29/1/02 - a.m. We landed on Banjul International Airport at 3.45 a.m. (2 hrs delay) after a troublefree direct flight from Maastricht Airport (The Netherlands). A minibus brought us to the Badala Park Hotel where we arrived at 5.30. Check - in was easy and quick and as it was still dark we tried to get some sleep till 7.30. Before breakfast (available from 7 till 10 - it's dark till 7.30) we birded from the room window and in the hotel garden. After breakfast we walked through the garden and found a good place at the swamp behind the hotel. A walk to the beach brought us in touch with Alhagie "Alex" Drammeh, who presented himself as a guide. Past "Kotu south bridge" we found a mimi market (near Bakotu hotel) where we bought some food, mineral water and a couple of cold "Julbrews" which were consumed on the spot. - p.m. After lunch and a quick siësta we walked the Casino Cycle Track and visited the Kotu Sewage Ponds. At 7 p.m. we met Alex again, who had made up his price for a four days inland trip as far as Basse Santa Su. We eventually agreed and invited Alex for a drink in the hotel. We ate Chinese ("We like Chinese, a 14, a 7, a 9 and lychees...") and drank some double Julbrews on a very succesful first day. We had seen 75 species of birds just in the area around the hotel.

30/1/02 - a.m. Breakfast at 7.30 and at 8.15 we took a taxi (at the hotel - D50) to the Senegembia Hotel. The Senegambia garden was very birdy and so were the adjacent gardens through which we walked to Bijilo Forest, also known as the Monkey - park. Bijilo is a nice palm-forest (entrance fee : D20). After a long walk we had lunch at "Sonja's", a nice bar and restaurant. - p.m. We intended to go back to the Senegambia gardens but a character known as the "Birdman" tried to charge us D150 (per person !) just to enter the garden. Angry, we turned back and searched for a taxi to take us to The Fajara Golf course. For sure, there is no charge for non hotel residents entering the Senegambia gardens. Just go in and enjoy a wealth of birds, even rarer ones. So we walked the Fajara Golf Course while it was blistering hot. A handful of birdguides popped up but we told them we wanted to bird on our own. (The famous Lamin Sidibeh was among them but I wonder if anyone is willing to pay his price which equals almost an average Gambian month's wage per day per person.). Someone cried "JulBrew - time" and from now on this was the way to say that the "wheel was running dry"... Bakotu minimarket is the right place with the cheapest Julbrew in town (D9). During the walk back to the hotel a dozen of Gambians asked the same question : "Hello birdwatcher, how many species today ?" Badala Park Hotel has three restaurants so tonight we tried the second one (the one in the breakfast area), which was also good.

31/01/2002 - a.m. We had breakfast at 7. A trip to the famous Abuko - forest on the program. We just walked away from the hotel, waiting for the things to happen. No more than 20 minutes later we were on the way to Abuko in a minibus at the very good price of D100 ! Much cheaper than the taxi's at the hotel. While we were waiting for transport, a dozen of Gambians asked where we came from (they all liked Belgium), informed about our health, asked if we liked The Gambia and then tried to sell us their services as a guide. We just wanted a minibus... and got what we wanted. Entrance fee at Abuko was D31,5 p.p. All morning we walked the paths through the dense vegetation As in every tropical forest the birding was hard work. Birds hide high in the canopy; sometimes not a single bird is seen and than suddenly you come across a flock of birds containing over ten different species. Ten minutes later everything is quiet again except for the beautiful whistling sound of the Wattle-eyes. Three hours of intense birding brought us about 100 species. We decided to come back to Abuko at least twice during our stay. p.m. We walked from Abuko to Lamin Lodge, right through the village of Lamin and followed by a herd of noisy children. At the well known lodge at the bank of the river we had a few double Julbrews and a very good meal. So we were very comfortable and easily survived the heath of mid day. Late afternoon we chartered a boat (D300) and that was a very nice way to get back to the coast (Denton Bridge). Good birding along the river and its mangroves ! A bush taxi ("tanka tanka bus" as the locals say) was stopped along the Banjul - Serekunda road and for the price of D3 (!) we reached the centre of Serekunda. There we had to walk two blocks to the next bush taxi that would bring us back to Kotu. The narrow roads were very, very crowded, so imagine six birders with binoculars, scopes and photo equipment... With a little help of about twenty people we eventually found our tanka tanka to Kotu. We had survived the "bath" and got back in the relative luxury of our hotel.

1/02/2002 a.m. The inland trip with Alex and Moses (Moss pour les dames). Got up at 6 o'clock and drove to Pirang where we had a long walk in search of the Black Crowned Cranes. (We saw 3 !). In the small village we bought some fresh bread and corned beef for brunch. It took the rest of the day to reach Tendaba, with stops at Kampant Bridge (near Bwiam at the Jurungkumani Bolong - a splendid site for raptors incl. Bateleur !), and near Batteling (Kiang West National Park). After arrival at Tendaba we walked to the airfield and then enjoyed food, drink and rest at the cosy Tendaba Camp. The bad bumpy roads and the old van which had no shock-absorbers caused some problems to some of us but a good sleep at Tendaba was enough to clear things up. Make sure that the car that brings you upriver is in good condition (although cars in good condition will be rare to find in The Gambia !). P.S. This day "on the road " produced 101 species of birds. Quite productive !

02/02/02. a.m. A nice day for "date-watchers" but also a nice day for us. After breakfast (7.30) we had a very rewarding boat trip to Kisi Bolong and Tunku Creek, opposite Tendaba Camp. The three hour's boat trip brought us into the mangroves and between very birdy swampy areas. Unfortunately the sky was cloudy so photographing conditions were not so good. But the birding was excellent ! If you stay at Tendaba it's a must to do the boat trip ! p.m. On the road to Georgetown we had a few stops where interesting birds were seen , e.g. Pakali Ba Bridge (with Oxpeckers on the cows) and Fula Bantang (with a small colony of Marabou Storks in a tree). So we arrived at Baobolong Camp (Georgetown) and ordered the "buffet-lunch" which was a mixture of everything they had "à la carte" and it was good. A few Julbrews afterwards, while watching large Fruit-Bats flying overhead made it a jolly good evening. Baobolong Camp is definitely a nice place to stay.

03/02/2002. a.m. After breakfast we had a nice walk through the village and after checking out at The Baobolong Camp, we headed for Bansang Quarry. This site was very good with a colony of about 100 Red-throated Bee-eaters and a variety of finches. At that time it was obvious that we wouldn't reach Basse Santa Su. The average speed of our car was too slow to make it. So the Egyptian Plover (only two were present at Basse as we heard from a British couple who had a better car...) would be "for the next time". It's always wise to leave something for the next time... A small chance to see the plovers at a swampy area behind Bansang village gave no result although that was a nice birding area : a tree with over 50 Hooded Vultures and good views of three Roller - species made worth the detour ! p.m. The long and lonesome way back to Tendaba was only interupted by stops at Fula Bantang (the Marabou's nests) and a stop at Jalangbera where three species of vultures sat next to each other on the same branch of a baobab tree.

4/02/2002 a.m. After a good breakfast we birded around Tendaba village. Good birding place ! And late morning we headed back for the coast with a stop at Kampant Bridge (Bateleur again !), at Yundum Fields (in search of the Temminck's Courser - in vain...) and at Mandina Ba where we had no succes with the Hadada's... The evening, with a noisy Djembe-band playing on the background while we had our meal, we concluded that our upriver trip had been a succes with 162 species of birds. No one bothered about the Egyptian plovers... And we had a nice "chill-out party" at the swimming pool...

5/02/2002 a.m. This morning we walked down the Casino Cycle Track without guide (we sent a dozen of them away...). At Luigi's and Abis restaurant, a road leads down to the beach, so we walked back that way reaching Kotu stream by noon. Lunch and siësta were held at the hotel. p.m. A taxi brought us to Tanji Bird Reserve. There we spent all afternoon. A quick visit to the "Belgian owned" Paradise Inn Lodge ("Julbrew time", you know...) learned us that this is a very peaceful place, far away from the hotel areas. No hustlers nor bumsters but away from everything. Nevertheless a nice and tidy place. At dusk we were present at the Nightjar's site behind Palma Rima Hotel. Alex was with us (for free !) and we saw at least 10 Long -tailed Nightjars. 1 was photographed with succes !

6/02/2002 a.m. A second visit at Abuko, again without guide. Just a taxi at the cost of D300, including three hours waiting time. We arrived at the entrance gate where the ticket-man just woke up. The park opens at 8 o'clock. We payed D31,5 p.p. and the ticket-man said he would give us the tickets later in the morning. Which he did all right ! Abuko was still very birdy and we enjoyed the very nice morning. At noon we were back in the hotel. p.m. We split up and three of us went to the Senegambia gardens by the beach , and from there to Bijilo Forest which was visited for the second time. A nice walk, but very poor birding. Morning is obviously a better time to visit this site! Meanwhile, our photographer did his job along the Casino Cycle Track, and the woman went shopping. Souvenirs were bought near the Bakotu Hotel where there is a concentration of small shops. No prices are indicated and the salesman and -woman refuse to say their price. We can advise you to go into the Bungalow Beach Hotel's shop first where prices are indicated. So You'll have an idea when starting negociations with the vendors. When you can pull down their price to 1/3 they'll call you "a tough one".

7/02/2002 For this day we hired Alex again (D1000 all in) and with driver Jalamma Cham we explored the Marakissa area. A nice drive from Brikama to the Senegal border brought us through the dense woods of Marakissa. We stopped at the Marakissa Swamp where a new camp is being built (owned by a man from Holland). A visit to Alex's family in the village of Darsilami gave us the opportunity to see a glimpse of real Gambian life. We had lunch and a nice walk at the now deserted Jahsu River Camp. This site is signposted ! It was a very nice day with two of our "target birds" : Verraux's Eagle Owl and African Pygmy Kingfisher. The food at Abis Restaurant (owned by a German lady) was very good.

8/02/2002 a.m. After breakfast Luc and the Willies left for a long walk across the Fajara Golf Course (good birds !) and the Atlantic Road in Bakau to Cape Point and finally Cape Creek. As we did this without a guide, numerous people tried to sell their services. A tough one sticked on us during over two hours. Eventually we agreed to have a drink in "his brother's" beach bar. It was "Julbrew-time" anyway ! A taxi flagged down on the road brought us back to Badala Park. In the meantime Gerard had photographed a lot of birds in the rice fields along the Casino Cycle Track. His only problem was getting rid of the many guides who wanted to prevent him from getting lost in "the wilderness". The woman had a nice beachwalk and numerous opportunities to have a good time (a jolly good time !) with nice Gambian men. p.m. After lunch and siësta we all walked to the Bakotu area in search for souvenirs, booze,... Everything but birding... Allow us to take a bit of a holiday as well, will you? At 7.30 we were back at the Nightjars site. The Nightjars were there as well.

9/02/2002 Today we hired Modou Colley (we met him several times and had his phone number) as our guide for the Faraba Banta Bush Track. For this trip you do need a guide and as Modou lives in the village of Faraba Banta he is the right man. The track has a lot of side tracks and there are no signs . Modou charged us D200 p.p. (from 7.30 a.m. till 3 p.m.) The trip turned out to be our best raptor-day with 17 species of raptors. Modou is a keen birder (especially on raptors). Recommended ! See useful addresses. On the way to Faraba Banta we stopped at Mandina Ba, where we saw four Hadada Ibises and the only Violet Tourako outside Abuko.

10/02/2002 a.m. Third trip to Abuko (with driver Jalamma). This place is really very good and deserves more than one visit even when you stay in the Gambia for one week only. There are a couple of hides and a nice lookout building at the pool. We had lunch at Lamin Lodge. p.m. Late afternoon we went to the Brufut Woods with Modou Colley. It's difficult to find, you have to go right through Brufut village. A few birds still missing on our list were pointed out by Modou. He knows the birdsounds and whistles the birds out of the bush. For three of us this was the last excursion.

11/02/2002 Breakfast at 7.30 and this is it for Luc and the Willies. A bus took them to the airport where they arrived at 11.45 a.m. Check-in was troublefree and at 12.30 p.m. (!) the plane left Banjul international Airport bound for Maastricht - Holland without delay !. Six hours later, in Maastricht rain was pooring down... Those who were staying for another week took a bit of a day off. A beachwalk and some birding around Badala Park. The area just around Badala Park is really very good for birders !

12/02/2002 a.m. After breakfast we made a trip to Cape point and had a stroll through Bakau. Because "the wheel was running dry" a quick visit to the Bakau supermarket (it's indicated on all maps) was inevitable. The botanic garden is quite something different than the arid scrubby landscape that surrounds it. Nice flowers ! We had lunch at Ali Baba's near Bakotu Hotel. p.m. The woman walked the Casino Cycle Track once again (it is really a nice walk !) till the end, accompanied by a hurd of horny Gambian men who tried their chances on a jolly good time again... The Gambia has a bit of a reputation... Gerard took pictures of a variety of kingfishers at Kotu Creek which gave him also some satisfaction. Evening meal at the pool is, as usual, animated by a chap called "Coco" and it's Quiz-night ! Every sentence Coco declaimes ends by the word "whaw".

13/02/2002 a.m . Our personal taxi driver (he doesn't take any other passengers anymore but us !) took us to the Senegambia Gardens, a very good (and quiet) birding place without hustlers and with some nice shady corners in a flowering vegetation. But remember the entrance fee of D150 p.p. last week was just a good try by "Maas - the birdman". It must be said that this was the only place where we faced a fake entrance fee. Trip reports had warned us about the same thing at the Fajara Galf Course but there we had no problems. At 11.30 a.m. Hoodod Vultures and Cattle Egrets gather on the hotel grounds. The birds are attracted by food and are extremely tame (did you ever give a hug to a vulture? ). p.m. After lunch and (a very long) siësta we had just a short beachwalk and a few Julbrews at Bakotu Minimarket. Tonight Jalamma, our driver was invited for diner in our hotel which he appreciated a lot !

14/02/2002 There's still a lack in our program and that is the visit to Banjul City. We visited the Banjul Museum (entrance fee D15 p.p. - no photographing inside, although...) and walked around the very lively market place. p.m. After lunch we visited a school. We had still a lot of pens and notebooks (only 500 pens were given away the first two weeks) and so we were guided around by the school headmaster, a very, very nice woman. Everybody was pleased with our gifts and in a good mood we headed for Marakissa again where the Verraux's Eagle Owl had to be photographed. Julbrew Time was held at Marakissa Camp (under construction). This is a good birding place ! It was almost dark when we reached the hotel and after a refreshing shower we ate at Ali Baba's once again and the band played on...

15/02/2002 Almost all day is spent in the Kololi tourist area with the Senegambia Gardens as birding (and photographing) hotspot. There are a few restaurants along the Senegambia road so we had everything we wanted. Late afternoon it got very windy and cool and that was the cause why we had our meal inside for the first time in almost three weeks (at the Chinese restaurant in Badala Park).

16/02/2002 a.m. A fourth visit to Abuko and we didn't regret it at all. Abuko is great. And that's the last time I'll say it. At the exit-gate there are some souvenir stalls and you should consider spending some time there. Typical Gambian stuff (wood carvings, cloths etc...) is offered at good prices. The drive back to Badala Park leads us right through the heart of Serekunda. This really is Africa. A cosy chaos... p.m. We walked around Badala Park and the Kotu Creek area. Alex has joined us without trying to charge us fot his guiding services. Which we appreciated !

17/02/2002 a.m. We are a bit lazy (after almost three weeks...) so why not go to the Senegambia Gardens once again. There are benches to rest and photographing opportunities are ever so good ! Even a very big Monitor Lizzard gently walked over the hotel's lawn. Splendid pictures ! All at once the whole Senegambia area is woken up by loud music and shouting people. What's going on ? The president of Senegal is in town. We leave the now crowded neighbourhood and drive back to Badala Park.

18/02/2002 It's over. Three weeks of splendid birding and a very nice holiday, never to forget. For dutch speaking readers : de eerste twee dagen was onze leuze "we hebben ons weer wat aangetrokken". Maar alles liep op wieltjes... die soms eens droog liepen. The flight back home was as troublefree as the whole trip. Jerejef Gambia,Abaraka !

Species Lists

1. Little Grebe - Tachybaptus ruficollis
Kotu sewage ponds.

2. Great White Pelican - Pelecanus onocrotalus
During the boat trip between Lamin Lodge and Denton Bridge. Pirang.

3. Pink-backed Pelican - Pelecanus rufescens
Tendaba. During the boat trip between Lamin Lodge and Denton Bridge. Jahsu River Camp.

4. Great Cormorant - Phalacrocorax carbo
Tendaba

5. Long-tailed Cormorant - Phalacrocorax africanus
Common in suitable habitats.

6. Darter - Anhinga melanogaster
Tendaba. Abuko. Marakissa. Cape Creek

7. Grey Heron - Ardea cinerea
Common.

8. Black-headed Heron - Ardea melanocephala
Tendaba. Abuko. Casino Cycle Track

9. Goliath Heron - Ardea goliath
1 bird during the boat trip between Lamin Lodge and Denton Bridge. 1 ad. at Tendaba (Kisi Bolong)

10. Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea
Kotu Creek, Cape Creek

11. Great Egret - Ardea alba
Common

12. Black Heron - Egretta ardesiaca
Tendaba. Marakissa. Casino Cycle Track

13. Intermediate Egret - Egretta intermedia
Marakissa Swamp

14. Little Egret - Egretta garzetta
Common.

15. Western Reef Egret - Egretta gularis
Common.

16. Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides
Common.

17. Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis
Common.

18. Striated Heron - Butoroides striatus
Regularly in Mangrove vegetation. Casino Cycle Track.

19. Black-crowned Night Heron - Nycticorax nycticorax
Tendaba. Abuko

20. White-backed Night Heron - Gorsachius leuconotus
1 bird at very close range in Tunku Creek at Tendaba

21. Hamerkop - Scopus umbretta
Common in suitable habitats.

22. Yellow-billed Stork - Mycteria ibis
Tendaba. Marakissa. Pirang. Between Lamin Lodge and Denton Bridge.

23. Woolly-necked Stork - Ciconia episcopus
Tendaba

24. Marabou Stork - Leptoptilos crumeniferus
A small breeding colony in the village of Fula Bantang (near Georgetown).

25. Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus
Common in suitable habitats.

26. Hadada Ibis - Bostrychia hagedash
4 splendid birds at Mandina Ba (near Brikama).

27. African Spoonbill - Platalea alba
Tendaba. Casino Cycle Track. Between Lamin Lodge and Denton Bridge.

28. Fulvous Whistling Duck - Dendrocygna bicolor
Cape Point

29. White-faced Whistling Duck - Dendrocygna viduata
Daily a noisy (whistling !) flock near Badala Park.

30. Spur-winged Goose - Plectopterus gambensis
Daily a juv. bird at the pond behind Badala Park

31. Osprey - Pandion haliaetus
Almost daily seen.

32. Black-shouldered Kite - Elanus caeruleus
Almost daily seen.

33. Black Kite - Milvus migrans
Abundant

34. African Fish Eagle - Haliaeetus vocifer
2 juv. birds at Pirang

35. Palm Nut Vulture - Gypohierax angolensis
Almost daily seen.

36. Hooded Vulture - Necrosyrtes monachus
Abundant. You can almost touch them in The Senegambia Gardens.

37. White-backed Vulture - Gyps africanus
A few birds along the road between Tendaba and Georgetown.

38. Rüppell's Griffon Vulture - Gyps rueppellii
1 bird in a tree near Jalangbera (along the road east of Soma).

39. Short-toed Eagle - Circaetus gallicus
Yumdum fields, Marakissa, Tanji Bird Reserve.

40. Beaudouin's Snake Eagle - Circaetus beaudouini
Faraba Banta Bush Track

41. Brown Snake Eagle - Circaetus cinereus
Faraba Banta Bush Track. A few birds along the road between Tendaba and Georgetown.

42. Banded Snake Eagle - Circaetus cinerascens
Bakau

43. Bateleur - Terathopius ecaudatus
Marakissa. Kampant Bridge (a few km west of Bwiam - a good raptor - site !)

44. Western Marsh Harrier - Circus aeruginosus
regularly

45. Montagu's Harrier - Circus pygargus
About ten birds during the boat trip at Tendaba.

46. African Harrier Hawk - Polyboroides typus
Almost daily seen.

47. Lizard Buzzard - Kaupifalco monogrammicus
Almost daily seen.

48. Dark Chanting Goshawk - Melierax metabates
A few birds perched (typical silhouet !) along the road to Georgetown. Faraba Banta Bush Track. Brufut Woods.

49. Gabar Goshawk - Micronisus gabar
Tendaba. Kotu Sewage ponds.

50. African Goshawk - Accipiter tachiro
Fajara Golf Course

51. Shikra - Accipiter badius
Almost daily seen.

52. Grasshopper Buzzard - Butastur rufipennis
Kampant Bridge. Faraba Banta Bush Track.

53. Tawny Eagle - Aquila rapax
Tendaba. Lamin Lodge. Faraba Banta Bush Track

54. Wahlberg's Eagle - Aquila wahlbergi
Faraba Banta Bush Track

55. African Hawk Eagle - Hieraaetus spilogaster
Marakissa

56. Booted Eagle - Hieraaetus pennatus
Faraba Banta Bush Track

57. Long-crested Eagle - Lophaetus occipitalis
Tendaba. Marakissa. Kampant Bridge. Faraba Banta Bush Track

58. Eurasian Kestrel - Falco tinnunculus
Yundum Fields

59. Gray Kestrel - Falco ardosiaceus
Almost daily seen.

60. Red-necked Falcon - Falco chicquera
Bijilo Forest.

61. African Hobby - Falco cuvieri
Marakissa. Cape Creek.

62. Lanner Falcon - Falco biarmicus
Two birds flying each with a little chick in the claws near Bijilo Forest

63. Peregrine Falcon - Falco peregrinus
Cape Creek

64. White-throated Francolin - Francolinus albogularis
Marakissa

65. Double-spurred Francolin - Francolinus bicalcaratus
common.

66. Stone Partridge - Ptilopachus petrosus
Tendaba. Abuko

67. Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris
Georgetown (could be escaped domestic birds)

68. Black-crowned Crane - Balearica pavonina
We were waiting for over two hours at the well known site before three birds came flying in. Splendid !

69. White-spotted Flufftail - Sarothrura pulchra
One of our top - three birds : Gerard saw one at close range in the rice fields along the Casino Cycle Track.

70. Black Crake - Amaurornis flavirostris
Two birds at Abuko, seen and photographed from the observation building. 1 bird at the pond behind Badala Park, seen from our room balcony.

71. Common Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus
Marakissa

72. African Jacana - Actophilornis africanus
Common in suitable habitats.

73. Greater Painted Snipe - Rostratula benghalensis
Marakissa Swamp

74. Eurasian Oystercatcher - Haematopus ostralegus

75. Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus
Common in suitable habitats.

76. Avocet - Recurvirostra avocetta
Tendaba. Kotu Creek

77. Senegal Thick-knee - Burhinus senegalensis
Common in suitable habitats.

78. Spur-winged Plover - Vanellus spinosus
Common. The first bird to welcome us, seen from the bus that drove us to the hotel after arrival.

79. Black-headed Lapwing - Vanellus tectus
Fajara Golf Course. Brumen Bridge.

80. Wattled Lapwing - Vanellus senegallus
Common.

81. Black-bellied Plover - Pluvialis squatarola

82. Common Ringed Plover - Charadrius hiaticula
Cape Creek

83. Common Snipe - Gallinago gallinago
Marakissa Swamp

84. Black-tailed Godwit - Limosa limosa
Kotu Creek

85. Bar-tailed Godwit - Limosa laponica
Casino Cycle Track

86. Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus
Very common in suitable habitats.

87. Common Redshank - Tringa totanus

88. Marsh Sandpiper - Tringa stagnatalis
Seen a couple of times e.g. at Jahsu River Camp.

89. Common Greenshank - Tringa nebularia

90. Green Sandpiper - Tringa ochropus

91. Wood Sandpiper - Tringa glareola

92. Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos

93. Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres

94. Sanderling - Calidris alba

95. Little Stint - Calidris minuta

96. Dunlin - Calidris alpina

97. Ruff - Philomachus pugnax

98. Audouin's Gull - Larus audouinii
Cape Point

99. Kelp Gull - Larus dominicanus
A small group of birds at Cape Point. We dipped at Tanji.

100. Yellow-legged Gull - Larus cachinnans
Tanji Bird reserve.

101. Lesser Black-backed Gull - Larus fuscus
Tanji. Cape Creek

102. Grey-headed Gull - Larus cirrocephalus
Common at the coast.

103. Black-headed Gull - Larus ridibundus
Tanji.

104. Slender-billed Gull - Larus genei
Tanji. Cape Creek

105. Gull-billed Tern - Sterna nilotica
Common at the coast.

106. Caspian Tern - Sterna caspia
Common at the coast. A huge flock at Tanji : hundreds together !

107. Lesser Crested Tern - Sterna bengalensis
Tanji Bird Reserve

108. Sandwich Tern - Sterna sandvicensis
Common at the coast.

109. Royal Tern - Sterna maxima
Common at the coast

110. Four-banded Sandgrouse - Pterocles quadricinctus
Tendaba airfield. Kiang West National Park.

111. Speckled Pigeon - Columba guinea
Common.

112. Eurasian Turtle Dove - Streptopelia turtur
Common at Georgetown

113. African Collared Dove - Streptopelia roseogrisea
Common at Georgetown

114. African Mourning Dove - Streptopelia decipiens
Common upriver.

115. Red Eyed Dove - Streptopelia semitorquata
Common. Heard everywhere.

116. Vinaceous Dove - Streptopelia vinacea
Common.

117. Laughing Dove - Streptopelia senegalensis
Common.

118. Black-billed Wood Dove - Turtur abyssinicus
Common.

119. Blue-spotted Wood Dove - Turtur afer
Less common than Black-billed.

120. Namaqua Dove - Oena capensis
Common upriver.

121. Bruce's Green Pigeon - Treron waalia
Bansang Quarry

122. African Green Pigeon - Treron calva
Marakissa. Brufut Woods. The locals call them Fruit Pigeons.

123. Rose-ringed Parakeet - Psittacula krameri
Common.

124. Senegal Parrot - Poicephalus senegalus
Common. Small numbers.

125. Guinea Turaco - Tauraco persa
Abuko

126. Violet Turaco - Musophaga violacea
Abuko. Mandina Ba.

127. Western Plantain Eater - Crinifer piscator
Very Common.

128. Senegal Coucal - Centropus senegalensis
Common.

129. Barn Owl - Tyto alba
Bijilo Forest.

130. Verraux's Eagle Owl - Bubo lacteus
Marakissa. A bird with two chicks on the nest, easy to see.

131. Pearl-spotted Owlet - Glaucidium perlatum
Near Badala Park, just opposite the main entrance. Georgetown. Casino Cycle Track.

132. Long-tailed Nightjar - Caprimulgus climacurus
About ten birds just before dark behind the Palma Rima Hotel. I was photographed.

133. Mottled Spinetail - Telacanthura ussheri
Tendaba. Georgetown

134. African Palm Swift - Cypsiurus parvus
Common.

135. Common Swift - Apus apus

136. Pallid Swift - Apus pallidus

137. Little Swift - Apus affinis
Common.

138. Malachite Kingfisher - Alcedo cristata
Tendaba. Kotu Creek

139. African Pygmy Kingfisher - Ipsidina picta
Marakissa areajust south of the village of Darsilami.

140. Gray-headed Kingfisher - Halcyon leucocephala
Tendaba

141. Woodland Kingfisher - Halcyon senegalensis
Marakissa. Bijilo Forest. Kotu Creek

142. Blue-breasted Kingfisher - Halcyon malimbica
Tendaba. Fajara Golf Course. Kotu Creek.

143. Striped Kingfisher - Halcyon chelicuti
Faraba Banta Bush Track. Brufut Woods.

144. Giant Kingfisher - Megaceryle maxima
Abuko. Marakissa Swamp

145. Pied Kingfisher - Ceryle rudis
Common in suitable habitats.

146. Red-throated Bee-eater - Merops bullocki
A colony of about 100 birds at Bansang Quarry (near Georgetown).

147. Little Bee-eater - Merops pusillus
Common

148. Swallow-tailed Bee-eater - Merops hirundineus
Tendaba. Brufut Woods

149. White-throated Bee-eater - Merops albicollis
Tendaba. Pirang

150. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater - Merops persicus
Tendaba. Lamin Lodge

151. European Bee-eater - Merops apiaster
Tendaba

152. Abyssinian Roller - Coracias abyssinica
Common in small numbers.

153. Rufous-crowned Roller - Coracias naevia
Less common than the other rollers

154. Blue-bellied Roller - Coracias cyanogaster
Common. Small numbers.

155. Green Wood Hoopoe - Phoeniculus purpureus
Common.

156. Red-billed Hornbill - Tockus erythrorhynchus
Common.

157. African Pied Hornbill - Tockus fasciatus
Tendaba. Abuko. Marakissa. Tanji Bird Reserve. Faraba Banta Bush Track

158. African Gray Hornbill - Tockus nasutus
Common.

159. Abyssinian Ground Hornbill - Bucorvus abyssinicus
2 birds near Kwinella, one bird a bit further east

160. Red-rumped Tinkerbird - Pogonius atroflavus
Abuko A top three bird. It was seen by several birders.

161. Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus bilineatus
Abuko

162. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird - Pogoniulus chrysoconus
Fairly common. Familiar sound.

163. Vieillot's Barbet - Lybius vieilloti
Tendaba. Abuko. Kiang West National Park. Fajara Golf Course. Faraba Banta Bush Track

164. Bearded Barbet - Lybius dubius
Almost daily seen.

165. Greater Honeyguide - Indicator indicator
Bijilo Forest

166. Lesser Honeyguide - Indicator minor
Abuko

167. Fine-spotted Woodpecker - Campethera punctuligera
Bijilo Forest

168. Buff-spotted Woodpecker - Campethera nivosa
Abuko

169. Cardinal Woodpecker - Dendropicos fuscescens
Tanji Bird Reserve

170. Gray Woodpecker - Dendropicos goertae
Almost daily seen.

171. Brown-backed Woodpecker - Picoides obsoletus
Kiang West National Park

172. Crested Lark - Galerida cristata
Pirang

173. Bank Swallow - Riparia riparia
Cape Creek

174. Barn Swallow - Hirundo rustica

175. Red-chested Swallow - Hirundo lucida
Common

176. Wire-tailed Swallow - Hirundo smithii
Tendaba. Marakissa. Cape Creek

177. Pied-winged Swallow - Hirundo leucosoma
Pirang. Mandina Ba

178. Mosque Swallow - Hirundo senegalensis
Tendaba. Pirang. Mandina Ba

179. Red-rumped Swallow - Hirundo daurica

180. House Martin - Delichon urbica

181. Fanti Saw-Wing - Psalidoprocne obscura
Abuko

182. White Wagtail - Motacilla alba

183. Yellow Wagtail - Motacilla flava

184. Grey Wagtail - Motacilla cinerea
Cape Point

185. Tree Pipit - Anthus trivialis
Tanji Bird Reserve

186. Red-shouldered Cuckoo Shrike - Campephaga phoenicea
Abuko

187. Common Bulbul - Pycnonotus barbatus
Common.

188. Little Greenbul - Andropadus virens
Abuko

189. Yellow-throated Leaflove - Chlorocichla flavicollis
Abuko. Marakissa

190. Leaflove - Pyrrhurus scandens
Abuko

191. Grey-headed Bristlebill - Bleda canicapilla
Abuko

192. African Thrush - Turdus pelios
Almost daily seen in small numbers.

193. Singing Cisticola - Cisticola cantans
Pirang

194. Winding Cisticola - Cisticola galactotes
Tendaba

195. Zitting Cisticola - Cisticola juncidis
Mandina Ba

196. Tawny-flanked Prinia - Prinia subflava
Common. A very familiar sound, heard everywhere.

197. Yellow-breasted Apalis - Apalis flavida
Abuko. Bijilo Forest

198. Oriole Warbler - Hypergerus atriceps
Abuko. Bijilo Forest. Badala Park Garden

199. Grey-backed Camaroptera - Camaroptera brachyura
Common.

200. Olivaceous Warbler - Hippolais pallida

201. Melodious Warbler - Hippolais polyglotta

202. Senegal Eremomela - Eremomela pusilla
Faraba Banta Bush Track

203. Northern Crombec - Sylvietta brachyura
Abuko

204. Chiffchaff - Phylloscopus collybita

205. Blackcap - Sylvia atricapilla

206. Subalpine Warbler - Sylvia cantillans

207. Nothern Black Flycatcher - Melaenorbis edolioides
Casino Cycle Track

208. Snowy-crowned Robin Chat - Cossypha niveicapilla
Abuko

209. White-crowned Robin Chat - Cossypha albicapilla
Tendaba. Abuko. Senegambia Gardens

210. African Shrike Flycatcher - Megabyas flammulatus
Abuko

211. Brown-throated Wattle-eye - Platysteira cyanea
Tendaba. Abuko. Pirang

212. Senegal Batis - Batis senegalensis
Tanji Bird Reserve

213. African Blue Flycatcher - Elminia longicauda
Marakissa

214. Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher - Terpsichone rufiventer
Abuko

215. African Paradise Flycatcher - Terpsichone viridis
Abuko

216. Blackcap Babbler - Turdoides reinwardti
Common.


217. Brown Babbler - Turdoides plebejus
Common.

218. White-winged Black Tit - Melaniparus leucomelas
Senegambia Gardens

219. Mouse Brown Sunbird - Anthreptes gabonicus
Tendaba

220. Western Violet-backed Sunbird - Anthreptes longuemarei
Abuko

221. Collared Sunbird - Hedydipna collaris
Abuko

222. Pygmy Sunbird - Hedydipna platurus
Tendaba. Georgetown

223. Scarlet-chested Sunbird - Chalcomitra senegalensis
Abuko. Mandina Ba. Faraba Banta Bush Track

224. Beautiful Sunbird - Cinnyris pulchellus
Common.

225. Splendid Sunbird - Cinnyris coccinigaster
Common.

226. Variable Sunbird - Cinnyris venustus
Fairly Common

227. Copper Sunbird - Cinnyris cupreus
Senegambia Gardens

228. African Yellow White Eye - Zosterops senegalensis
Mandina Ba

229. African Golden Oriole - Oriolus auratus
Tendaba. Georgetown

230. Southern Grey Shrike - Lanius meridionalis
Tendaba

231. Woodchat Shrike - Lanius senator
Yundum Fields. Faraba Banta Bush Track.

232. Yellow-billed Shrike - Corvinella corvina
Common.

233. Brubru - Nilaus afer
Kiang West National Park

234. Northern Puffback - Dryoscopus gambensis
Tendaba. Abuko. Marakissa

235. Black-crowned Tchagra - Tchagra senegala
Tanji Bird Reserve

236. Common Gonolek - Laniarius barbarus
Common. Easy to find if you know the call.

237. Sulphur-breasted Bush Shrike - Telephorus sulfureopectus
A male and a female at Abuko

238. Grey-headed Bush Shrike - Malaconotus blanchoti
A male at Brufut Woods.

239. White Helmet Shrike - Prionops plumatus
Tendaba. Abuko. Kiang West National Park. A few groups of birds along the road to Georgetown.

240. Fork Tailed Drongo - Dicrurus adsimilis
Common.

241. Piapiac - Ptilostomus afer
Common.

242. Pied Crow - Corvus albus
Common.

243. Gr. Blue-eared Glossy Starling - Lamprotornis chalybaeus
Tendaba. Georgetown. Kiang West National Park

244. L. Blue-eared Glossy Starling - Lamprotornis chloropterus
Tendaba. Kiang West National Park

245. Purple Glossy Starling - Lamprotornis purpureus
Common.

246. Long-tailed Glossy Starling - Lamprotornis caudatus
Common.

247. Yellow-billed Oxpecker - Buphagus africanus
A few birds at Pakali Ba Bridge

248. House Sparrow - Passer domesticus
Common.

249. Grey-headed Sparrow - Passer griseus
Common.

250. Bush Petronia - Petronia dentata
Fajara Golf Course

251. White-billed Buffalo Weaver - Bubalornis albirostris
Common. Huge nests !

252. Little Weaver - Ploceus luteolis
1 tiny bird in Brufut Woods

253. Black-necked Weaver - Ploceus nigricollis
Abuko

254. Heuglin's Masked Weaver - Ploceus heuglini
Abuko

255. African Masked Weaver - Ploceus velatus
Kiang West National Park

256. Village Weaver - Ploceus cucullatus
Common.

257. Black-headed Weaver - Ploceus melanocephalus
Abuko

258. Gray's Malimbe - Malimbus nitens
Abuko. Also a top-three bird !

259. Yellow-crowned Bishop - Euplectes afer
Marakissa

260. Black-winged Red Bishop - Euplectes hordeaceus
Marakissa

261. Orange Bishop - Euplectes franciscanus
Faraba. Banta Bush Track. Brufut Woods

262. Bar-breasted Firefinch - Lagonosticta rufopicta
Senegambia Gardens

263. Red-billed Firefinch - Lagonosticta senegala
Common. Cute little birds.

264. Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu - Uraeginthus bengalus
Common.

265. Lavender Waxbill - Estrilda caerulescens
Abuko

266. Orange-cheeked Waxbill - Estrilda melpoda
Marakissa

267. Black-rumped Waxbill - Estrilda troglodytes
Georgetown

268. Zebra Waxbill - Amandava subflava

269. African Silverbill - Lonchura cantans
Bijilo Forest

270. Bronze Mannikin - Lonchura cucullata
Common.

271. Magpie Mannikin - Lonchura fringilloides
Abuko

272. Cut Throat - Amadina fasciata
Bansang Quarry

273. Village Indigobird - Vidua chalybeata
Tendaba. Mandina Ba

274. Pin-tailed Whydah - Vidua macroura
Abuko

275. Long-tailed Paradise Whydah - Vidua interjecta
A nice group in Bansang Quarry. One male was still in breeding plumage.

276. Yellow-fronted Canary - Serinus mozambicus
Bansang Quarry. Faraba Banta Bush Track

277. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting - Emberiza tahapisi
Bansang Quarry