Arrived in Palma at lunchtime. As we stood under the Palms we realise we had arrived. Having already seen swifts from inside the terminal I was keen to start the holiday list. While we waited for the bus to leave to Porta Pollenca in the relative cool outside, the air conditioning had not been switched on; I had to get the bins out. So the first recognised species were swifts, loads filled the air, house sparrows, yellow-legged gulls and feral pigeons. From the bus the most memorable things were two kestrels and another BOP on wires (I still do not know what that was), cacti and an ostrich farm. Also there was IKEA, Makro, and Toys R Us so we did wonder whether this was just a warm Gateshead.
We stayed at the Hobby Club Apartments on the third floor. The first thing we did after opening the doors to the balcony was, hear a sylvian warbler. At a guess it had to be Sardinian as the commonest species present. The fact it was singing in a row of grey poplars 30 metres from our window across the pool was amazing. It took 30 twitchy minutes to see the black head with its red eye. Feeling relieved we could go for lunch as more swifts flew over and house sparrows called and flew. It was hot and sunny it took the prospect of lunch to allow us to settle into the place.
We had gone N up the coast road and ate opposite Tamarelles 1 pizza and two cheese toasties (no ham). As we sat there first a Little Egret flew up the coast road and what may have been a Honey Buzzard flew across the bay in front of us. Three shag sat on the breakwater. (June's Birding World said that Honey Buzzards, presumably in unusual numbers moved through Bocquer Valley between 22nd May and 25th May, perhaps this was a straggler?)
The afternoon was to be spent on the beach so as we went back to change managed to see greenfinch and blackbird feeding young by the pool. As we played on the beach YL Gulls flew over.
Behind our apartments was a patch of rough ground that ran N to the Porta Pollenca Park Hotel in the evening before dinner I managed to get Fan-tailed warbler, 4 crossbills (family) 2 singing serins on the wire fence, goldfinches and a spotted flycatcher. The latter is of the island race and paler underneath. Much like the sparrow that appeared a kind of piebald as the underparts of the males are much paler than ours. The female was also paler too. Two swallows headed N and a bridge over a stream on our way into Porta Pollenca allowed us to see a Little Egret (? The one from the morning) and a grey heron. We new it was going to be a good holiday for all of us. For the birdwatcher 1 new species Sardinian, 1 new in W Pal Fan-tailed and two endemic island races crossbill and spot fly.
Day 2.
Awoke to Sardinian by the poolside and Cetti's out where the scrubby area is. From the front door to our apartment you could scope the breakwaters and a desmarestii shag could be seen, again paler than the nominate form. Its long beak and smaller size also added to the look of this being a separate species. Stonechat was another bird added to the birds on the scrubby land. We walked up to Porta Pollenca for lunch and then up to the Bocquer valley.
We started the walk around 2pm and it was hot, dry and dusty. Birds were few and far between really only a Stonechat beneath the Finca was seen. You can see why people stop outside the farm, as the view S across the valley was stunning. Before here we had met a birder who said that Egyptian Vultures and Booted Eagle had been seen earlier, we needed to be there between 6 and 7am. He obviously had not and was berating the fact he was with his family who were non-birders. Just past the last gate Sardinian sung from bushes and was glimpsed briefly. Another birder who was looking for Wryneck, in an un-wooded part of the valley said were to find Mamora's but did not want to say much else. It was obviously goat herding day as a handful of men with ropes across their shoulders began searching the valley. They did not speak English so we listened to their voices echoing across the valley and goats being herded down to the Finca. These were beautiful chocolate brown goats that we saw in other parts of the island. We followed the path through the gap in the wall and past the small pine copse. This would have been a better Wryneck spot and the last birder knew it was there as he had been in the valley two days previous. Strange. We kept on the path, everything was new and it was difficult to know where to look first. Such a large valley and so many new things out there. Then I heard falcons. High to the NW above the ridge flew three Eleanora's. They appeared as large long tailed swifts as they chased along the ridge before disappearing. I definitely knew what I had seen, but doubt set in as two more falcons flew around calling. These had a different silhouette and I convinced myself that I had misidentified the first birds in my haste to add ticks. These were surely peregrine. True but then they got into a dogfight with the returning Eleanora's. Side by side there was no mistaking them. In some ways it was unfortunate that it was the young peregrine that landed on the rocks and not an Eleonora's, however, it gave Samuel and Anne good scopable views. A wren sang linnets flew around and Anne found a Kestrel.
Walking back we stopped at the gap in the wall. The falcons had gone but a bird that flitted mouse-like between bushes was identified as a Marmora's. Good, if brief views were had as they kept out of the limelight. A good afternoon was had until Samuel slipped on the path cutting his knee. The walk back was a bit slower though the heat was less intense. A thrush singing just past the cave may have been a blue rock but we did not stop. Greenfinches and blackbirds in a Holme Oak told us of the cat on the ground past the farm. A large group of English birders were being guided up the valley as we reached nearly the bottom. None spoke let alone enquired what we had seen. Just passed them the orchards on the right held birds. Mainly goldfinches also some dark-headed yellow wagtails. I was keen to see a race of this bird but a Hoopoe flew in the opposite direction. As this was a bird Samuel wanted to see on the holiday and I had already opened my mouth before realising it was now a long way out of sight. We all missed the birds we wanted. Serins sang in the pines as we stopped in the supermarket for more drinks. Now refreshed I wanted to go straight back, but instead planned an early morning walk latter that week.
More YLGulls on beach and as I wrote up the day's notes on the balcony another Little Egret flew N along the beach.
Going out to dinner brief views of an Audouin's Gull was had as it slowly flew along the beach.
Three of Majorca's key birds as lifers in one day!
Day 3.
Lay in bed wondering what was the best way to get around the rest of the islands good bird spots given that the car was to arrive today. Rather than thinking about it I decided to get up and go out. It was six o'clock and the sun was just coming up over a gloriously calm sea. I did think it would have been light a long time ago at home. I do not remember what was the first bird of the day but Serins were everywhere. I intended to walk the back roads but should have taken the map as I missed the turn and walked around a partly built housing estate. A woodchat shrike was the first bird seen, this race could count as a lifer if split. However, having only seen two previously and shrikes are always good to see it was great. The estate had large areas of scrubby land. Hoopoes could be heard calling and there were more Stonechat, Sardinians and corn buntings. Fan-tails zitted but did not give good views. Returning to the coast road I knew if I walked to the river there was a track that would take me to the back roads. The river was more of a trickle filled with reeds, just the job! More of the same as above plus a Cetti's. I was destined not to see this species though a singing nightingale did fly across briefly. A look at the point the river entered the sea was clear until within 30 secs an Audouin's, settled. Then another and finally a third. The last two were second summer birds that prompted the adult to call. Though I cannot remember how different from other gulls it sounded. Back at the stream a night heron flew over. Went along the track with the ever-present corn buntings, Serins, swifts, house sparrows and greenfinches. While trying to see the parents of the moorhen chicks in the stream two more night herons, one juv. flew up. Turned right onto the road and found a female woodchat on top of an oak. It was now about 8am and the sun was becoming warm. Occasional nightingales could be heard these contrasted with the hoopoes African calls. Got a nightingale at the rear of our apartments. Other birds seen included Mallard flying around and three stock doves. I never paid much attention to these though it appears from the guidebook that these are unusual in Majorca. Seeing all these common birds to Majorca cured the need to look at everything that I have had since landing. It was good birding perhaps I could relax now.
Drove down to the Caves of Drach. Turned off the main road at the wrong point and drove inland across dry heathland type farmland. Heard sounds I did not recognise wanted to return. Went through Manacour must go back to its windmill in the centre and down to the Caves. Every set of pines seemed to hold firecrests, though I never saw one. We had a picnic lunch under the trees and then went off to do the tour. As we wandered down Samuel was taken by a peacock in a tree that he could stand under. I was more impressed by the swifts, realising that I would never see a firecrest. Wait did that one have blunt wing tips? Yes it really did as did its friend. In amongst the swifts were Pallid Swifts. First lifer of the day. The caves were spectacular including the music played as boats circled the underground lake. But not as rememberable as the long-horned beetle that had caused interest on a woman's leg before we went in. I became the centre of attraction when it landed on my bins. It was big mind. Out of the caves more swifts and I wanted to see more pallids but was not sure I saw any. However, a Red-rumped Swallow was I felt a good find so late in the season. Collared doves, chaffinches and spot flys flew around.
4pm we needed a beach so drove N to just past the safari park then went to Sa Coma. From the incredibly blue see looking N could see pine woods down to the beach from which a nightingale sang. No self respecting British nightingale that's for sure. S was hotels exactly what I expected the whole island to be like. Got to the car and was just about to drive when Samuel wanted a drink. One of life's coincidences. Opened the boot as a hoopoe flew across the field that was stabling horses. Everyone piled out. Within a few moments it returned with a friend and gave scopable views. Samuel pointed out the second and the deformed beak of the first. Most have been chasing parked cars. An Audouin's circled the field as well. The next bird Samuel wanted to see was a vulture. Driving N chose not to stop at S'Albufera we could not do justice to it in the 10 minutes we had. So we followed the road to the west of the reserve past the windmills. It was a warm balmy evening.
After dinner walked home past a tree that had a singing Scops Owl. Would we see it later that week? We tried hard to see it that night but did not have any luck.
Day 4.
Drove to and into Palma. Straight into an underground carpark, which was lucky as it was full by the time we had parked and worked out where we were. Swifts abounded over the city. As we waited for the train to Soller sparrows fed by the station on seeds attached to a tree with lavender blue flowers, must check what this is. The shadows they cast as they moved about were enchanting. The train was mainly full of Germans living up to the cultural stereo type. We sat on the platform side of the train, probably the best for views. Especially as it was this side that had the circling Red Kite. Great tit and Blackcap singing at Soller station as the temperature reached 30-32C. We begun to walk to Port du Soller, but it was too hot and too far. Samuel saw the taxi that Anne hailed. We left the Germans that had not got the tram standing on the corner while we were soon drinking cold drinks on the harbour front. Swift city, the warmer weather and the earlier start probably meantthat youngsters were in this flock too. And a heron flew across the bay chased by YLGulls. The bus was supposed to leave on the hour for Parma so we did not work out why it left at half past three. It was a scenic ride across tiny mountain roads that hugged the cliffs above a glassy sea. Anne saw a hoopoe. It was recommended from the guidebook and well worth it. Samuel wanted to get a football strip while in Majorca and we walked miles around cobbled streets and small shops under the tourist information instructions. Very rarely were their guesses as to sports shop whereabouts correct and we finished up with a Barca strip from a shop outside the entrance to the carpark. Swifts constantly overhead. The street pigeons were mainly white doves. Pleased with our success we headed out to Palma Nova to the crazy golf course. On the way stunning views of the cathedral and castle must return. Palma Nova was as bad as we expected, everything in English and some evening entertainment coming from the nearby hotels sounded as bad as I expected it to. The golf was entertaining again the Germans were rude and the English loud. Two Hoopoes flew around at dusk, which were really unexpected. We finished at around 11pm all 54 holes and ate a pizza in the nearest restaurant. Got back to Porta Pollenca around 1pm.
Day 5.
Crossbills flew around our apartment as we ate breakfast settling in the pine trees adjacent to the beach. Today we were to drive to Formentor in the morning, our last day with the Ka. Firecrests were in the woods, but I saw nothing, as the roads were as wide as our drive and a bit scary in places. Casas Velles looked interesting but it would be worthy of note that past this estate there appear to be places to park and walk and an entrance on the left leads down to a very secluded beach. Getting into the carpark was difficult due to other drivers not being considerate with parking or driving. However it did not take long to get parked and we soon noted 2 ravens and more crossbills in the pine trees here. Even though the carpark was full few people walked down to the mirador, they missed wren, stonechat and Marmora's. Anne drove back which gave me a chance to see Crag Martin. And the views of a very still sea with no chance of any shearwaters. We stopped at the Mirador before the descent to Porta Pollenca. The morning had seen the carpark too full to get in. From here more crag martins fluttered on strong wings beneath us and probably my first ever, genuine rock doves. Samuel and Anne went off to the top of the viewpoint as I had heard a thrush singing below us. With the scope I managed to get excellent views of a male blue rock thrush. He sang from a column of rock/stack below the viewing point. The colour was surprisingly good camouflage in the shade. However it was glorious in the sun, but what an incredibly long beak. This feature was useful as ID later in the week.
The afternoon was spent by the pool reflecting on a good morning.
At 4.30 pm we left for Cuber Reservoir. A long winding road that left my prediction of how much petrol we had left in the tank extremely tested. Every twist in the road above Lluc as we slowed down we heard nightingales, the woods of predominantly oak were full of them. Foolishly knowing that the reservoir was high I asked whether we would need sweatshirts. No our shirts quickly filled with sweat. This place had obviously cooked during the day. First bird out of the car was a nearby nightingale singing. The second bird was a Tawny Pipit. It was in the spot that the Tawny pipit is in in the video live in, how could it be anywhere else? Good views of a Sardinian which aroused the interest of two birders coming our way. Initially they mistook us for French; a compliment as the French always appear well turned out. They had been there for 4.5 hours and seen 1 booted eagle and a possible Eleanora's. This did not fill me with optimism though the Tawny, as a lifer was good. We thanked them and walked up to the dam. More Stonechat and a better view of tawny were had. The YLGulls on the reservoir suddenly took off and filled the air, 500 pairs of eyes are better than three obviously. Another red Kite circled slowly along the ridge before the gulls encouraged it to fly away. This highlighted how difficult it is to point out raptors to others and it frustrated Samuel. However he was pleased with some linnets he found and hearing a nearby nightingale in the gorge by the dam. Turning around from here I saw a big bird over the mountain. With the scope I managed to get it as a Black Vulture. Two others then joined it as they circled high, occasionally leaving the top enough to upset the gulls. These were incredible birds as even at this distance you could tell they were vast. Two even did some talon grappling and one attempted to land on the far side. As it came in to land it raised its tail. Everyone got good views. I was now greedy for more ticks but with no rock thrushes in the quarry and not being able to find the possible singing spectacled warbler I returned to the vultures. It was now about 6.30 and we were hot and dry. Guess who forgot the water? As we walked back the tawny did its stuff from the top of a pine tree and Anne found another BoP as it flew around the mountain. It was most likely an eagle and if so a booted, but I was reluctant to tick it on such distant views. The vultures were still there. The drive back saw house martins by the entrance to the tunnel by the next reservoir and everywhere there were nightingales. We stopped at the viewpoint before Lluc and saw more crag martins, this was a beautiful stop and here we were mistaken for Spaniards. We needed petrol but the attendant was not impressed with our 4-litre purchase. Chaffinches flitted across the road but the best bird of the drive was just past the petrol station a nightingale in full view on the road, which then flew to the edge on our arrival.
Day 6.
Intended to get up early and do some birding, but the late night took its toll. We caught the bus to the Hidropark in Alcudia (stop 24). On the way down I noticed a Little Egret in the Albufereta river mouth. The bloke behind me on the bus saw a white heron. At least he saw something, more than most other tourists see. As we walked to the park the temperature gauge outside Burger King said 28C at around 11am. A purple heron flew over as we entered the park, another bird Samuel wanted to see having watched the video. The day was spent playing however from the top of the slides you could see a large lagoon that was dotted with Little Egrets. A nightingale sang as we played crazy golf and we saw more Stonechat. A large fire behind the mountain to the west, during the day had been extinguished by the afternoon. Serins sang as we walked back to the bus stop. Again swifts flew over at one point they moved a kestrel on. Alcudia from this brief trip is as bad as everything you have ever read of conurbations of creeping tourism. All the signs we saw were in English and you saw two or three English pubs. This was the fish and chips and beer of Majorca. How pleased I am that this was not where we were staying even if it meant I would have got moustached warbler and a trip around S'Albufera.
Walking home from Porta Pollenca, we had eaten again in the 'Italian', we heard two Scops Owls. One was in the same tree as before, a large pine on the edge of the coast road just N of the Doctors. Us stopping to look in the tree prompted people to stop and ask questions. They went home pleased they had identified the night-time noise. I went home frustrated that I had not seen the owl and had the dilemma of whether to tick it.
Day 7.
Last day I had to get up early for one last effort of early morning birding so left the apartment at 5.15am. I had the choice of going N to the Bocquer Valley or S around the Back Roads again. The S won as I felt that to go N would be like twitching hoping to get an Egyptian/Booted when there were so many common island birds to the S that I would not see, especially in these numbers, for many years. What a decision it was too! I planned to walk for the first hour to see where I got (about 2 miles) to so passed the smelly stream; a misnomer as it had no water under the bridge. This brought me to the sunrise listening to nightingales and Sardinians all the way. Cetti's mixed it with the nightingales along the stream that did have some water further along. I never saw a Cetti's all week. A Hoopoe flicked across the road and disappeared, more firecrests sung from the woods, but they were not seen either. A night heron getting home to bed was another great bird, though it did come second to the purple heron juv. This flew towards me than landed on the top of a tamarisk quite close, best ever view. This hour took me to a track that headed across some fields here you could hear more corn buntings, Sardinians and Fan-tails whilst being bitten by mosquitoes. Swifts moved with the rising sun and I made another mental note of the pied appearance of the sparrows with their pale bellies, especially the male compared to those at home. I could see the hillside that had been totally destroyed by yesterday's fire. Reluctantly I walked back along the track it had been a great mornings birding, but I did not know the best was yet to come. I rejoined the road and headed to Porta Pollenca. I stopped to make a note of the cornfield weeds that had made both a pleasant botanical experience but also kept the Corn Bunting populations higher than Britain. Chicory stood out as being the bluest and it only opened when the sun came up, others included both pink and mauve thistles, poppies and occasional mullein. These contrasted with the cacti in people's gardens. I was deep into note making when a lark jumped out of, said weed field. It was large and chunky possibly had a pale but not white trailing edge to the wing. The wing itself was very broad at the point it joined the body. This was not a skylark. That is were the panic set in, as it was difficult to find in the weeds even then I did not get good views. Or of the other lark that flew to the middle of the next field. Then with the sun behind it I got a glimpse of its massive crest. It had to be a Thekla. Were they supposed to be on this part of the island? Not according to the guide. I was really pleased with my choice of walks and the purple heron that flew over only added to the grin. But as per usual everything happened at once. While trying to relocate the Thekla a Fan-tailed with a great big mouth of food sat in the open. I had tried in vain to get a good look at one of these until now. As I turned from that bird I saw a nightingale in the bare lower branches of an almond only feet away. Other cornfield flowers were pinkish scabious and a kind of large carrot in the centre of its umbells it had a black lump that looked like a tiny bee. Serins were now flying and singing their song, they are greenfinch like but more so [fluttery]. Made a note that I must get a vine for the garden not for the fruit but the beautiful leaves. At the beehives saw another woodchat. It gleamed in the sunshine, but combine this with a rusty honey for sale sign and a flowering eucalyptus tree it felt like some antipodean trip. A male was across the river back to Porta Pollenca in the almond groves. Almost back to the apartment when a white bird flew into the edge of the 'ugly sheep' field. I had not noticed a stream here previously, then another, which looked a bit beige coloured. Getting closer I realised that there was no water and these were sum. plum. Cattle Egrets. It was weird some how seeing them walking amongst sheep. Especially when the sheep dwarfed them. Their clanking bells only attracted the egrets to them not put them off finding their food. I was latter to read that Cattle Egrets should only be winter visitors or summer visitors rarely to S'Albufera. This added to the feeling that I was finding my own birds and not only that but they were rare too.
What a great morning and this had to beat a chance of eagles and Egyptian vultures. I was too late back to walk up to look for the Scops in daylight however scopable views of male crossbill made me wonder why these are a separate race. Is it the dark nape and ear coverts with the supercillium?
10.30 am the boat trip that goes from the first jetty as you approach Porta Pollenca. We had bought tickets earlier in the week from the little white shed adorned with pictures of a glass-bottomed boat. We expected it to be busy, but it was the one that went around the bay that left at 10 am that was busy. We were heading for the Mediterranean; an opportune day as a slight NE breeze had developed and this was the most likely day for shearwaters to be passing. We sped out, too fast infact as just past the Formentor bay, 4 Booted Eagles circled. This perhaps reaffirmed that what Anne found at Cuber was an Eagle though too far for positive id. I was a bit concerned as I saw a white rump and it was not until I looked in the book that it confirmed this as an ID point. It reaffirmed the great choice I had made that morning about the walk. As we reached the lighthouse the waves of the sea tossed the boat up and down a bit. We had not explained seasickness to Samuel so he was surprised to look over the rail and see a boy, and later a woman being sick. He thought he would not get sick as he was healthy, why not? He thought it was quite fun to watch others though! As the boat turned it drew in close to the cliffs and two Eleanora's shot out of an opening. Close but brief views. Also close views of a Pallid as it shot over our heads and thoughts of shearwaters disappeared as we turned our back on the sea. A third Eleanora's was seen slightly more distant but for longer. A second Blue Rock Thrush was seen high up on the cliff tops. Initially identified from its huge beak silhouette it did fly around in the sunshine. Shags abounded, though they seemed so small to just be a race of our shag. Reached the Isla de Formentor, YLGull nested all over but the Southern most point that you can only see by boat had 30+ pairs of Audouin's nesting there. It was so much of a shock that I did not use the bins before they disappeared out of sight. Samuel was pleased with a good view of them and osprey was the next bird on his must see list. 10 minutes later one flew above the boat, not as close as my first but there it was easy to see without bins an osprey carrying a fish. This sent us into raptures and caused some mild interest amongst the fellow passengers. Some of these people had bins but had obviously come for the sight of the cliffs. Strange! Billed as a dude type trip it was one of the best tourist things I have been on. The last bird of note was a dot Anne spotted beneath the Atalya D'Albercutx viewpoint. With bins its large broad wings, no head and no tail were clearly black vulture at an even greater distance than our lifers. However, it was a fitting tribute to a good week and the fact that more birders need to report more things from their hols. Or will this need to have pages of description to get it accepted like this morning's birds?
Oh yes, the glass bottom. The boat did have glass sides under water but the public was not permitted down there. Strange, but true. Perhaps if one had stood beneath inside and looked as we went along we would have seen something, but as we were expecting to stop and look we were mildly disappointed. However the birding was so good none of us worried. Only the vomit was there to remind us that on top was the best place to be.
The only other bird of note that day was the spot fly in the Market Square which gave close views of its pale belly.
Dinner out again at the good restaurant at the start of the pine walk. Last time we had been there the police had been called as the waiters walked across the front of the next door shop to serve tables the other side. They remembered us, we remembered them and we had a good night. Samuel played football on the beach with some mainly English children between courses. Walking home one last look for the Scops that was again calling from the same tree. No luck. We arrived home pleased to discover the disco and BBQ organised in the apartment block was almost over and we had enjoyed a most memorable last evening away from those who wanted Majorca to be like a hot England.
Day 8.
Up at 6 am to catch the bus back to the airport. Another great sunrise. As we waited at reception the local Sardinian came and sat on the fence with a female. Really the only female seen well during the week. Like most species it was the singing males that we saw. How different would the list be if we came in the autumn? But a fitting end to a great week, first new bird within fifteen minutes of getting to the apartments and the last new bird before we left!
As you leave a place you see it in a totally different light to when you arrive. Majorca was dry brown and getting browner. The irony being that all the fields were being watered by the irrigation system that had been invented by the Arabs. However all the rivers were just rocks with the occasional reed bed sticking out. How much of their water was being used by tourists like us that wanted to come, see and get brown?
Arrived in Newcastle around 3.30 pm after a 1 hour delay to 12C, we had been used to 32C. It was freezing!!
