We all met on time at Plymouth Ferryport. Once we had loaded all our luggage onto the minibus, we joined the queue for the ferry and the start of our tour. Once aboard we found our cabins and then went to the front deck to position ourselves for sea-watching. Not far out of Plymouth Sound we had the first of three Storm Petrels, closely followed by the only Basking Shark of the trip. The journey down towards Spain was rather uneventful with few seabirds noted. The highlights were 29 Manx Shearwaters, 41 Common Scoter and 2 Great Skuas - one of which gave really good close views. A Common Swift looked rather strange right out in the middle of the English Channel, but apart from the usual Northern Gannets and Fulmars it was a rather quiet day. However, it was an extremely pleasant day with the sun shining down on and the sea being very calm and tranquil.
Day 2 - 16th July
A few of the group were up early and in position at the front of the ship. The sea conditions were still relatively calm and there was very little to be seen. A small pod of dolphins were spotted, but they never showed themselves well enough to be specifically identified. As we approached the sheltered harbour of Santander, Yellow-legged Gulls appeared and a single Sandwich Tern was seen. Common Swifts circled the city and before we knew it we were docking. Once we had left the ferry and gone through customs we parked up and Adam and I went and sorted out an additional hire car. Once everything was sorted, we all set off out of the city and on our long drive to the Pyrenees.
It wasn't long before the first Black Kites and Common Buzzards were being spotted from the vehicles. Numbers increased and Black Kites were obviously moving as several flocks of thirty plus were seen. Continuing on we then started seeing huge Griffon Vultures and even a few Egyptian Vultures. A Honey Buzzard was seen by a few whilst a Short-toed Eagle and Common Kestrel were added to our list. Our first real stop was in a small village near the city of Vitoria, where we were soon enjoying close views of a pair of White Storks nesting on a church roof. After excellent looks at these and a singing Serin we had a quick snack and drink and then continued on. A few other species were spotted from the vehicle as we got closer to our destination. Lots of Black and Red Kites, more Griffon and Egyptian Vulture's and even Crested Larks and a couple of European Bee-eaters were seen.
At the base of the Hecho valley we refuelled the vehicles, had a welcome ice-cream and then drove the last part of our journey up the valley to our ideally situated hotel and our welcoming hosts Imanol and Lucia. We also met Josele our local Spanish bird guide and good friend, who would be helping out on this tour. The eager group members were soon scoping birds from the lawn, including Griffons and a Short-toed Eagle and then a distant but never-the-less distinctive Lammergeier. We also saw the resident pair of Red-backed Shrikes in the little meadow adjacent to our hotel.A little later we had a short drive down the valley to have a look around. It was quite windy and not a great deal was seen. A Red Kite came very close and investigated us while a distant Short-toed Eagle was seen. Several butterfly species were seen including, Clouded Yellow, Bath White, Spotted Fritillary and Common Blue. We then headed back towards the hotel stopping at a road tunnel where we all had excellent views of nesting Crag Martins. We had excellent scope views of a group of young birds on a rocky ledge, which were particularly appealing. We then went back to the hotel where a lovely evening meal was enjoyed and then our checklists were started.
Day 3 17th July
After breakfast we drove down the valley to Hecho village and then crossed over to the Anso valley. A stop was made at a high watch-point, and from here we soon located several Crested Tits, while above us a Red Kite and Egyptian Vulture were seen. A distant Honey Buzzard was also spotted and some of the group managed to see it in a scope. A good number of butterfly species were present and these included Pearly Heath, Spanish Gatekeeper, Marbled White's, Violet Fritillary, Great Banded Grayling and Long-tailed Blue. Leaving here we then drove down the Anso valley, stopping just before a deep gorge called the Foz de Binies. Along the way we made a quick stop for a Hoopoe and also got poor views of a female Subalpine Warbler. From another area full of butterflies we saw Dipper and Grey Wagtail on the river and above us squadrons of Griffon Vultures patrolled the skies, whilst Alpine Swifts wheeled around above the gorge.
With the vehicles already driven to the other side, we then walked through this picturesque gorge. Griffon Vultures were seen well, with several close ones perched on ledges. A Black Kite flew very close by us and Crag Martins could be seen nesting everywhere. Black Redstart and a brief Bonelli's Warbler were seen and at the far side of the gorge a Pair of Blue Rock Thrushes were seen carrying food to a nest, which must have been nearby. More butterflies were encountered and they now included Clouded Yellow, Berger's Clouded Yellow and Pale-clouded Yellow, several Southern Scarce Swallowtails, Black Satyr, Cleopatra's and a Striped Grayling. After reaching the vehicles, we drove to the nearby hilltop village of Binies and had our picnic lunch in the small square. It was now hot so we relaxed a while before setting off to the nearby river Aragon. On the river bridge we saw a couple of Rock Sparrows and then walking a riverside track we soon found a group of about seven Bee-eaters. A family of Woodchat Shrikes showed well and in a spot closer to the river we had excellent views of several Bee-eaters sat in a dead tree. In a damp area there were some Marsh Helloborine's and a few Greater Butterfly Orchids. A juvenile Lark proved very interesting and needed better views, but may have been a Thekla! The nearby reed-bed was decidedly quiet as the weather was still a little to hot, so we decided to return to the vehicles. Back at the van we saw some Long-tailed Tits before setting off towards the hotel, stopping briefly to look at a female Marsh Harrier and then later a distant Booted Eagle. At the hotel we had a refreshing pot of tea or a beer and then we all made a short visit to the nearby Bocos de Inferno, which in total contrast to where we had been was cold and very windy. We did not see much, although a flowering Pyrenean Saxifrage was nice for some of the group and so we returned to the hotel.
Day 4 - 18th July
After breakfast we headed higher up the Hecho valley. As we passed through narrow gorges, with the rocky river just below us, we saw several Dippers and Grey Wagtails. At a more open area we stopped and had a short walk. In the woods we saw Crested and Coal Tits as well as Short-toed Treecreepers, Robin, Black Redstart and then a lovely pair of Firecrests. We continued further up the valley, beyond the woods and as far as we could take the vehicles. From here we walked back down the valley, passing through some fantastic scenery.
At the top, a male Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush was found and it showed very well as it perched up on the obvious boulders. The huge Apollo Butterfly was spotted flying past and was the first of several of this high altitude and sought after species. Northern Wheatears, Linnets and Yellowhammers were common and above the hillside we saw a couple of Honey Buzzards, Egyptian and the ever-present Griffon Vultures. Further down, Kim found us an obliging Melodious Warbler and then we had a very close Bonelli's Warbler and in the forest edge one of a pair of Black Woodpeckers was seen flying and then perched. In a small stream we looked at a Pyrenean Brook Salamander and while looking at this a Lammergeier appeared over the hills. We watched this bird on several occasions as it lazily drifted along the ridge, way above us. We then saw two different Golden Eagles in the same area, and there were of course lot's of butterfly's including Escher's Blue, False Heath and Black-veined White, Meadow Fritillary, Piedmont Ringlet and Pale Clouded Yellow to name a few. Once we reached our vehicles we drove further down the valley for a picnic stop beside the river. While eating our packed lunch, we got distracted as three Golden Eagles appeared and gave us superb views as they drifted along the hillside right in front of us. Even more butterflies included Mallow and Grizzled Skippers, as well as several more Apollos. We then drove down to the hotel for ten minutes before driving high up to Gabardito Refuge. Here we walked through the woods until we reached a sheer rock-face. Griffon Vultures passed by in close squadrons and then a pair of Lammergeiers were seen flying and perched on a rocky ledge. Both Red and Yellow-billed Choughs flew around in small groups calling and a pair of Common Kestrels passed overhead. As we were about to leave, a Rock Bunting was spotted by Jackie,and we all got excellent views of this bird. It was soon time to get back to the hotel for our early evening meal. After the meal and a 'quickish'! check-list we then drove down the valley to a spot between two wooded hills. Here we waited until dusk and after seeing several Nightjars flying around we then caught sight of a huge Eagle Owl drifting slowly down the valley. After this we returned to the hotel.
Day 5 - 19th July
This morning we split into two groups, with one group coming with me and Nick and the other going with Josele. With group one, we drove through the woods to the top of the mountain at Gabardito and here we took a short walk to the sheer rock face. Alpine Swifts showed very well as they wheeled around giving their high pitched scream. After a long wait the bird everyone was hoping to see suddenly appeared at the top of the cliff. A male Wallcreeper flew out and then back and only a few of the group saw it! We patiently waited and after what seemed an eternity it reappeared, landing on the sheer rock face and everyone got to see it well, even in the scope. Fantastic! With everyone ecstatic, we then made our way back to the minibus and returned to the hotel for lunch. A few of the group found a nice Martigon Lily along the way. Group two had a good time with Josele, and managed to see Lammergeier and add Turquoise Blue and Blue-spot Hairstreak to our butterfly list. After our lunch we took a short break and then headed down the valley where the temperature was decidedly hotter. A roadside stop was made to look at some Egyptian Vultures on the ground and then we continued on to San Juan de la Pena. After a high climb in the vehicles, we stopped at a viewpoint where the distant Pyrenean mountain range could be seen stretched out in front of us. Just as we pulled in, a Lammergeier was spotted flying low in front of us. Unfortunately it disappeared very quickly. We hung around looking at the Griffon Vultures, which were nesting on the rocky ledges below. A Honey Buzzard showed well and a few butterfly species were being checked out. Suddenly the Lammergeier reappeared and we all had fantastic close flight views as it drifted slowly by. It was then seen again and this time it flew in and landed on a rocky ledge where we set our scopes up and enjoyed really good perched views of this magnificent bird. We then continued up to the top of this mountain and after parking we took a short walk to a viewpoint. It was rather hot and there were few birds to be seen. A Damon Blue found by Roger was a good butterfly for the trip. We left and returned towards the hotel. A quick stop in the lowlands found us a Marsh Harrier, some of the group saw Bee-eater but it was really still too hot. We then drove back to our hotel where the weather was absolutely perfect.
Day 6 - 20th July
After breakfast this morning we loaded up the vehicles and then set off on the drive to Candanchu ski resort. Once here we began the day with two Lammergeiers drifting lazily overhead. We then got together everything we needed from the vehicles and made our way to the chair lifts, which silently delivered us to the top of the mountain. The view from the top was fantastic and as soon as we were all ready we began to find a few new species of flower, including Eidelweiss.As we made our way along the track, butterflies included Lefebre's Ringlet and Mountain Clouded Yellow. Alpine Choughs were then seen well and Northern Wheatear and Black Redstart spotted. We positioned ourselves on a grassy meadow with a spectacular view all around us including several snow capped peaks. Time and patience were now needed and with Josele positioned high on a hillside and the rest of us checking nearby rocky banks and cliffs it was just a matter of watching and waiting. A few Black Vanilla Orchids were in flower and Peak White butterfly was a good find. Josele then spotted our main target species: Snow Finch.
Kim got the bird in a scope and most people got a reasonable view of it perched or flying away. An Alpine Accentor was then scoped at great distance, before we tucked into our picnic lunches. Afterwards Jackie found a much closer Alpine Accentor on the hillside and several of the group who were close enough got excellent views. The next half hour or so was one of those magical moments that make birding so exciting. After a brief view of Snow Finch, everyone then watched in amazement as one perched on a rock only forty feet away. Absolutely brilliant views were had of this true alpine bird, and then on the same rocks a pair of Alpine Accentors showed really well. To top it all off, a Wallcreeper flew in and landed briefly on the same piece of rock, before flying off. Fantastic! Very happy with all this, we then made our way slowly back towards the chair lift seeing Lammergeier, a Chamois stood on top of a mountain and then really good looks at a Marmot stretched out on a rock. We made our way back down the chair lifts and enjoyed a cold drink or two in a nearby bar to celebrate our success. We then set off on the drive back to Hecho village, which is a beautiful place where we had a walk around the narrow cobbled streets before enjoying the sunshine and sipping a few cold drinks outside a lovely local bar. After this we returned to the hotel and watched as a storm developed over the mountains. During the evening some of the group watched a Black Stork fly down through the valley below the hotel, obviously seeking shelter from the storm.
Day 7 - 21st July
Another beautiful morning saw us head back up into the mountains. We crossed into the Anso valley stopping first to look at a singing Cirl Bunting. As we made our way higher we had a few stops and picked up species such as Rock Bunting, Spotless Starling and in one very scenic spot with high mountains all around, we saw Booted Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Melodious Warbler and White Letter Hairstreak Butterfly. The next spot produced Dipper and Grey Wagtail, better views of Rock Bunting and then a superb Purple Emperor Butterfly which allowed us to get very close and photograph it. Continuing on we crossed into the Roncal Valley and on to Belagua. We climbed very high and then stopped at a refuge. Here we had good views of both Red-billed and Yellow-billed Choughs feeding in the short grass. We climbed even higher and drove slowly along listening for our target bird: Citril Finch. At one point we got out to scope a male Crossbill sat in a tree and here were lots of Pyrenean Agualega. At the top and over into France we stopped for our picnic lunch. Sue spotted a Citril Finch just before we parked, so several of us walked back and found the birds showing very well beside the road. As we ate our picnic there were Water Pipits and a few Citril Finches to be seen. Everyone then walked up the road and saw this species very well. Amongst the butterflies were Common Brassy Ringlet and Mountain Ringlet while a good selection of flowers was also found. It was soon time to start back down but not before a stop at the old border crossing. Here we got close views of Yellow-billed Chough and then a super Ring Ouzel, a family of Black Redstarts and Iberian Wall Lizards. We headed back down to the lower valley where a brief cool off in a stream also found us Swallowtail Butterfly and a Beautiful Demoiselle. We then drove back to Hecho via the pottery shop in the small village of Fago.
Day 8 - 22nd July
After breakfast we drove straight to the picturesque village of Riglos, which is set below the huge red pinnacles of Los Mallos. We pulled off the road to get some good photographs of the scenery, which resulted in reasonable views of Sardinian Warbler, before parking in the car park at the start of the small village. Walking up through the narrow streets brought us out into the scrubby hillside immediately below the huge, red sandstone pillars of the towering cliffs. Almost immediately a brilliant pair of Black Wheatears were spotted right at the base of the towering cliffs. We watched them for ages as they fed actively, on occasions flying quite high up onto the rock face. Overhead a Short-toed Eagle sailed by. We then walked around the small allotments searching for warblers. It was quite windy and very hot which did not make for ideal conditions and our efforts only resulted in poor views of a Melodius Warbler and a Dartford Warbler, which was seen by Nick. So it was with much relief that we all descended into the local and very cool bar for our picnic lunch and some much appreciated cold drinks. Feeling fully refreshed, we drove a bit further down to a new area for our Pyrenees trips. The Sotonera Lake is the only large body of water for miles around and as thus, has some interesting species. Josele led us along some tracks through the arable landscape until we arrived at a small pond. It was pretty quiet here, save for a couple of Green Sandpipers and a small flock of Bee-eaters in some nearby trees. All around us Crested Larks sang and had begun to form loose flocks, which flew quite close in front of our vehicles on occasion. We then headed towards the main body of water, passing more Bee-eaters and a female Black-eared Wheatear along the way. We all stopped on a narrow bridge and jumped out of the vehicles to have a look at a good assortment of birds in the shallow drainage channel that fed into the lake. A good tally of 8 Little Egrets was seen here, as well as 3 Cattle Egrets, 2 Purple Herons, several Little Ringed Plovers and both Green and Common Sandpipers. We all enjoyed good views of these birds before driving around the corner and walking the short distance to view the lake. We walked up to a viewpoint that overlooks the lake and on the way Roger found a Preying Mantis. The main body of water was quite far away, but through the scopes we were able to pick out a lone Spoonbill, White Stork, a couple of Black-winged Stilts, Yellow-legged and Black-headed Gulls. There was also a large flock of ducks in the distance that appeared to be all Mallards and a few terns that were so far away, they defied identification. Leaving the hot lowlands behind, we returned to our hotel for a nice evening meal and to savour for the last time the astounding views all around us.
Day 9 - 23rd July
We were all up very early for the long drive to Santander this morning. Having loaded the luggage onto the minibus the night before, we had a quick coffee and croissant before saying our goodbyes to Imanol and headed back towards the coast. We stopped for refreshments along the way and in the early morning light we were fortunate to see a fast moving Hobby flying low overhead. We were soon in the queue for the ferry and then, after boarding the ship and dropping our luggage in the cabins, we all met up on the front deck. Leaving the sheltered harbour of Santander, we saw many Yellow-legged Gulls on the journey into the open ocean. The rest of the crossing that day was unusually quiet.
Day 10 - 24th July
As we neared the coast of Cornwall, we all met once again on the front deck this morning. Thankfully, there were a few more seabirds to look at including Gannets, Manx Shearwaters and several Storm Petrels. We were soon docking in Plymouth and shortly after were saying our goodbyes.
On reflection, we had an excellent trip in which we saw all the specialities of the Pyrenees and were able to enjoy a very light-hearted and fun tour. On behalf of Josele, Nick and myself, I would like to thank you all very much for making it such a pleasure to lead.
It wasn't long before the first Black Kites and Common Buzzards were being spotted from the vehicles. Numbers increased and Black Kites were obviously moving as several flocks of thirty plus were seen. Continuing on we then started seeing huge Griffon Vultures and even a few Egyptian Vultures. A Honey Buzzard was seen by a few whilst a Short-toed Eagle and Common Kestrel were added to our list. Our first real stop was in a small village near the city of Vitoria, where we were soon enjoying close views of a pair of White Storks nesting on a church roof. After excellent looks at these and a singing Serin we had a quick snack and drink and then continued on. A few other species were spotted from the vehicle as we got closer to our destination. Lots of Black and Red Kites, more Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and even Crested Larks and a couple of European Bee-eaters were seen. At the base of the Hecho valley we refuelled the vehicles, had a welcome ice-cream and then drove the last part of our journey up the valley to our ideally situated hotel and our welcoming hosts Imanol and Lucia. We also met Josele our local Spanish bird guide and good friend, who would be helping out on this tour.
The eager group members were soon scoping birds from the lawn, including Griffons and a Short-toed Eagle and then a distant but never-the-less distinctive Lammergeier. We also saw the resident pair of Red-backed Shrikes in the little meadow adjacent to our hotel.A little later we had a short drive down the valley to have a look around. It was quite windy and not a great deal was seen. A Red Kite came very close and investigated us while a distant Short-toed Eagle was seen. Several butterfly species were seen including, Clouded Yellow, Bath White, Spotted Fritillary and Common Blue. We then headed back towards the hotel stopping at a road tunnel where we all had excellent views of nesting Crag Martins. We had excellent scope views of a group of young birds on a rocky ledge, which were particularly appealing. We then went back to the hotel where a lovely evening meal was enjoyed and then our checklists were started.
Trip two (29th July - 7th August)
Day 1 - 29th July
We all met on time at Plymouth Ferry Port and once we had loaded our luggage onto the minibus, we joined the queue to board the huge Val de Loire. While waiting, we watched an immature Peregrine Falcon pursuing an adult, which was carrying a pigeon. We set sail on a smooth flat sea and soon after leaving Plymouth Sound we saw our first Manx Shearwaters, later followed by a Balearic Shearwater. Fulmars and Gannets were always on show and after a few hours our first Storm Petrels and Harbour Porpoises were seen. Conditions became even better with cloud cover and a very flat grey sea. Great Skuas were seen well and then we started seeing Great Shearwaters and a couple of Sooty Shearwaters. The views of the Greats were superb and we soon added a Puffin, Common Terns and 2 Black Terns. Harbour porpoises peaked at an amazing 42 for the day, a Sunfish was seen well, Common and Bottle-nosed Dolphins and a fantastic Minke Whale literally a few feet in front of the boat. Towards the end of the day we started to get good views of Cory's Shearwater and good numbers of unidentified dolphins. This was an excellent day with good views and a good variety of seabird and cetaceans.
Day 2 - 30th July
Some of the group were up early and sea-watching in the two hours before our arrival in Santander. Only 2 Great Shearwaters were seen until we got into the harbour and saw Yellow-legged Gulls and a Sandwich Tern. We were almost last to disembark, but once off we collected our second vehicle and in the rain we set off on our journey to the Pyrenean mountain range. After a couple of hours we made a stop for drinks and a snack, beside a White Storks nest. Unfortunately the birds were out feeding somewhere and we never saw them. Continuing on, the weather eventually cleared up and became sunny and warm, although there was still a strong wind. Many raptors were spotted from the vehicles including Griffon Vultures, Red and Black Kites and Common Buzzard. We made a stop looking into the Foz de Lumbier and here the skies just filled with Griffon Vultures and although difficult to estimate there must have been up to 500 birds! A Booted Eagle was then spotted, followed by Short-toed Eagle and several Egyptian Vultures. We carried on and eventually reached our perfectly placed hotel at the base of some impressive mountains. We unpacked and had a pot of tea, after which we took a short walk outside our new home for the week. We hadn't gone more than 20 yards when a Lammergeier was spotted drifting low over the distant mountains. We all scoped it and then shortly after it had disappeared, another scruffy individual flew out from behind our hotel and gave us much closer looks at its very distinctive shape. What a super start! Further down the road we watched a family of Red-backed Shrikes and got some wonderful views. Moving along to a road tunnel, we could watch the nesting Crag Martins and in a nearby field, a Fox was sleeping and on the river below a Dipper was seen. We made our way back to the hotel and got ready for our first evening meal and checklist call of the tour.
Day 3 - 31st July
After breakfast we set off in the vehicles and drove down the valley away from the wind. We then crossed over to the Anso valley making our first stop to look at some Griffon Vultures sat on top of a line of pointed rocks. The light was perfect and while looking at these, we then found a male Blue Rock Thrush sat on the very top. Distracted as normal in this wonderful mountain range we were soon looking at a Club-tailed Dragonfly and then several Butterflies which included Black Satyr, Marbled Whites, Clouded Yellow and Common Blue. Moving on we drove down this valley and stopped a few hundred yards from the lovely deep gorge of Foz de Binies. There were lots of butterflies along the roadside and we soon got to see Scarce Swallowtails, Silver-washed Fritillary, Spanish Chalk-hill Blue and Silver-spotted Skipper. Above us soared Griffons and a lone Alpine Swift. Two Lammergeiers then appeared and we got great views as they flew in front of the hillside and then away. From here we walked to a field beside the river where a Dipper was spotted. As some of us checked through the many Gatekeeper Butterflies, a shout went up and there only 50ft above us was a Lammergeier carrying a bone. We had the closest and most fantastic views you could ever have hoped for as it slowly circled us. A second bird then did a repeat performance before flying to the gorge. Here we watched it carry and drop a large stick - as it would a bone. Absolutely brilliant! We then took a slow walk through the gorge. Adult and juvenile Griffon Vultures were seen sat on rocky ledges, Crag Martins flew around and a Spotted Flycatcher was seen. Great Banded and Striped Grayling were also seen well. Leaving the gorge, we drove to the nearby Veral River where we stopped and had our picnic lunch. Two Southern White Admirals were seen and some Bee-eaters gave their liquid calls as they flew low over a field. After eating, we took a short walk seeing the Bee-eaters again and then finding a nice Melodious Warbler. Beside a bridge we managed to get brief views of a Bonelli's Warbler while Red Kites flew above. Moving on, we made a quick stop where we watched Tree Grayling and Berger's Clouded Yellow plus had poor views of another Melodious Warbler, Cirl Bunting and a small group of Spotless Starlings flew by. We then drove to the river Aragon and here beside the river we saw a Blue-headed Wagtail, both Red and Black Kites and a few more Bee-eaters. A bit more searching and Keith got a view of a Wryneck which we eventually got really close to and had superb views. We then watched a Rock Sparrow carrying food to its nest, after which we walked back to the vehicles. As we returned another brief stop had us watching several Woodchat Shrikes and Nick's van got to see a close Booted Eagle before getting back to the hotel.
Day 4 - 1st Aug
This morning with breakfast over, we headed to a nearby ski refuge. We hadn't walked more than a couple of paces when two Citril Finches were spotted sat on a fence. The pair, including a bright male then dropped down and fed in some thistles for all of us to see. We then set off on a walk through the wood and up to a sheer rock face where we had fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. We spent all morning here and got to see a Lammergeier, very good views of Alpine Swift, and both Crested Tit and Rock Bunting. We could look down on Griffon Vultures flying below us and several of the group also saw a Black Woodpecker. A few butterflies were found here and on the way back, including Autumn Ringlet, Mountain Ringlet, Comma and stunning Scarce Coppers. Amongst the flowers were English Iris and a few Mirendra. We left here and then drove up the Hecho Valley to Selva de Oza. Our picnic lunch was soon consumed as we relaxed beside a stream where several new butterflies and flowers were seen. Driving to the top of the valley we then took a short walk and here we saw a Marmot sat on a rock and then we had great views of a Short-toed Eagle, which hovered many times fairly close to us allowing every detail to be seen. John then spotted a Pyrenean Brook Salamander which I caught and showed everyone before releasing him back into his pool. Chalkhill Blues were seen and even a Mountain Clouded Yellow and Common Swallowtail. As we headed back we also got to see some Yellowhammers, Red-backed Shrikes, Dippers and Grey Wagtail.
Day 5 - 2nd Aug
It was cloudy and looked like rain on the mountains today, so after breakfast we headed south. Our first stop was at the bottom of our valley, in order to check a small bushy hillside. We soon found Corn Buntings, a brief Cirl Bunting and Dartford Warbler and then everyone got to see a family of Subalpine Warblers. Bee-eaters sat on the telegraph wires, a Tawny Pipit was found and then a few people saw Wryneck and Melodious Warbler. Moving on we drove to Los Mallos de Riglos with its huge red pinnacle rocks. A Golden Oriole was spotted from the front bus, but it was too dangerous to stop. At Riglos, we walked through the village to the little church and from here we searched the base of these huge, towering red sandstone cliffs. Black Redstarts were seen, as well as Melodious and Sardinian Warbler, before we got a brief view of our target bird: Black Wheatear. We waited and saw genuine Rock Doves in a cave and later I relocated three Black Wheatears and we all got to see them well. Moving on from here we continued south towards Huesca. Along the way we made an emergency stop when a European Roller was spotted on a wire. As we got out to have a look, it flew off and away but nearly everyone got to see it in flight. Further along and we stopped to look at a group of Spotless Starlings and then a very obliging White Stork stood on a TV arial. At Huesca, we turned off and after a while drove into the dry steppes. We had our picnic lunch in the shade of a tree beside an irrigation channel full of water. We then drove slowly around the area. A Little Owl looked superb as it watched us from a hole in a rocky bank and Crested Larks, Red-backed Shrike, Bee-eater, Turtle Doves and several Common Sandpipers were spotted. A dark phase Booted Eagle was then seen being mobbed by the local Kestrels and a Green Woodpecker was spotted. Driving over the barren steppe area we saw very little, a harrier was too far away in the haze to be identified and a few Black-eared Wheatears gave brief views. We then got to see an adult male and a juvenile Black-eared Wheatear really well sat on a rock. From here we continued to the edge of Lake Sotonera. Our first small pool of water held a Little Egret so we got out to scope it. We then saw a couple of Black-headed Gulls and up to 8 Common Sandpipers. Just as we were about to leave Geoff saw a wader fly in and land. I looked in his scope and was amazed to see a vagrant American Pectoral Sandpiper. What a find! We all set our scopes on this, the first record ever for Aragon and then after getting some initial record photos we slowly approached it. As with most American vagrant waders I knew it would be rather tame and after some time we were watching it at about 40ft away. We got some good photos, had fantastic close views and then left the bird feeding where we had found it. Excellent! We then made our way back via a cross country route. On a canal were several Little Egrets, a Cattle Egret flew off and then in a field beside us a lovely male Montagu's Harrier was watched. A little later, we saw a Marsh Harrier and then drove straight back to our hotel arriving just in time for a quick shower and then the evening meal. After which we toasted Geoff and the Pectoral Sandpiper, plus anything else we could think of!
Day 6 - 3rd Aug
After breakfast we set off on the drive to Candanchu, a ski resort at the base of some 6,000ft mountains. A stop was made just before we got there, when a Lammergeier was spotted flying low around a hillside. Once there we loaded our picnic into our rucksacks and then took the chair lift to the top of the mountain. We were the only people up there and it was a fantastic place to be with incredible views all around. A few flowers such as Eidelweiss started off the day, and carpets of English Iris beckoned the cameras. We walked on and soon scoped an Alpine Chough sat on a rock and then almost immediately a Snow Finch was seen to fly across and land on the grass. A couple of birds were then seen flying back and forth and landing amongst the rocks. We had lots of time and this enabled us all to see this species very well. Butterflies in the area included Lefebre's and Piedmont Ringlet, Mountain Clouded Yellow, Spanish Brassy Ringlet and an obvious southerly movement of Large Whites. A good selection of Alpine flowers was seen and after eating our picnic we walked higher and saw both Pyrenean Saxifrage and Pyrenean Agualega. A frog was also seen in a small pool and sat precariously on a small ledge on a sheer cliff face, we scoped a Chamois. After spending all day here we then returned back down the chair lift, seeing a Marmot on the way, and had a welcome drink in a nearby cafe. Afterwards we headed back to the hotel and an early evening meal. We quickly completed the log and then drove down to the bottom of the valley where we positioned ourselves between two hillsides and waited until dusk. On cue at about 10.00pm a huge Eagle Owl flew in and landed on the ridge. We moved position slightly and could then scope it with the sky behind. A great success! We then returned back to our hotel, where the stars this evening were really clear. We saw several shooting stars and even a couple of satellites before going to bed.
Day 7 - 4th Aug
This morning was misty and cloudy after the rain and storms during the night. After breakfast we decided to head down the valley where it should be warmer. We stopped just outside the hotel as there seemed to be a lot of birds around. It was obvious that the rains had dropped in many migrants. A Pied Flycatcher was seen, then several Melodious Warblers, Garden Warblers, Dunnock and tits. We drove down the valley and checked the road to Arres. On the scrubby hillside we soon found a lovely male Ortolan Bunting, lots of Corn Buntings and even several Cirl Buntings. Behind us on a small bush was a Southern Grey Shrike, a good bird for this area. We then had brief views of two Dartford Warblers, but longer and better views of Whitethroat, Subalpine and Garden Warblers. Several Orphean Warblers typically kept in cover but most of the group managed to get reasonable views. It was now getting hot so we drove up the Anso valley which was now clearing. Half way up we made a quick stop when a Hoopoe was seen. After a short wait we all got to see it walking around the short grass. Our next impromptu stop was along the road where hundreds of butterflies could be seen. Every plant held a good selection of different species including Small, Large and Silver-spotted Skipper, Striped Grayling, Gatekeepers, Marbled Whites and Mazarine Blue to name a few. Red-backed Shrikes were also seen and then a Goshawk circled high over the forest. We continued driving until Zuriza where we stopped for our picnic lunch beside a stream and open meadows. A Lammergeier was seen well and several Honey Buzzards were spotted. After lunch we drove across to the Roncal valley and drove right up to the French border at St Martin. Very good views were had of Yellow-billed Chough and Griffon Vulture flying just below us. At the very top we saw Citril Finches and Water Pipit and then after a long hike Nick found an Alpine Accentor, but it flew and we could not relocate it. It was getting late, so we headed back towards the hotel. A stop was made at a small famous pottery and then we drove the last leg back to the hotel. Nick's vehicle stopped briefly to look at a perched Short-toed Eagle.
Day 8 - 5th Aug
Sadly, this was our last day in the beautiful Pyrenees. We still had to get 2 target birds today, so most of the group returned to Candanchu. A few of the group decided to spend the day in the town of Jaca, which apart from some good shops and nice little bars also has a park and some other good 'birdy' areas. So off we went, up the chairlift once again. The peace and tranquillity as you ascend to the top is something you will never forget. So, we retraced our steps of the previous day and headed along the path to the open grassy area below the first big scree slope. Betty spotted some movement in the grass, just below a patch of English Iris, and there was our first Alpine Accentor of the trip - wow!! It showed really well before flying away onto the hillside, where we could still see it through the scopes. I walked back down the path with Doug and Dave and we got incredibly stunning views as it fed right above us on the hillside. Over the next hour or so, it flew back and forth in front of us all, showing really well. We also had crippling views of the Snow Finch as well. The pair were seen carrying food to their nest high up on the scree slope and regularly came very close to where we were sat. They seemed oblivious to our presence and were determined to feed in close proximity to our picnic site! So, all we needed was the elusive Wallcreeper. So we all walked up higher and higher, searching the scree slopes and rock faces as we went. But we would have no success with this bird today. Some of us decided to go higher up, leaving Nick and Margaret to scan one big scree and cliff area. Keith was in two minds what to do, but eventually he decided to climb the steep path with the rest of us and to his eternal credit brought the jam tarts with him! We all managed to see a big movement of Black Kites, numbering well in excess of 350, moving south. Other birds seen up here today included both species of Chough, another Lammergeier, many Black Redstarts and a few Water pipits. Time was now pressing, so we eventually regrouped and headed back to the chair lift. On the way down, we saw several Chamois and a nice little Marmot. As we descended in the chair lift, dark clouds above the mountains threatened some heavy rain. So we had timed it just right and made it to the bar before the rain and hail arrived. After some refreshing drinks we drove into Jaca to pick the others up. They had a good day, seeing Tree and Rock Sparrows, Little Owl, Melodius Warbler, Firecrest and Serin. So we then all stopped off at a nice little bar in Hecho Village for some drinks and sat outside in the little cobbled street enjoying the sunshine. That evening we had quite a storm but still managed to get our luggage onto the minibus in preparation for tomorrows early departure.
Day 9 - 6th Aug
Leaving very early in the morning, we headed back to the coast in what you could only describe as typical British weather; rain, drizzle and mist! Still, we did see some Griffon Vultures near the Spanish Coast and had a couple of welcome coffee breaks. After dropping the hire car off we were soon boarding the ferry for our return journey. Meeting on the front deck again, we had a nice Mediterranean Gull flying around the harbour before we got to the open sea. The journey across the Bay of Biscay was pretty good, with several Cory's and Great Shearwaters being seen really well, but only one Balearic Shearwater. Cetaceans were more in evidence this time, with 6 Fin Whales being seen, several of which were clearly seen 'blowing' - a magical sight. We also saw Bottle-nosed and Striped Dolphins as well.
Day 10 - 7th Aug
Some of us were up early and eagerly scanning the sea for some last minute sightings as we neared the coast of Cornwall. A couple of Balearic Shearwaters followed a line of Manx Shearwaters and several Storm Petrels were seen. But apart from the usual Gannets and a few Common Terns it was pretty quiet. All too soon we were docking and saying our final farewells in the car park.
On behalf of Nick and myself, we would like to thank you all for making it such an enjoyable trip and it was a real pleasure and delight to lead.