Research and Guides
Spain is, of course, well traveled by avian and nature enthusiasts. Having rightfully earned the mantle of the most productive and species diverse destination for birders in “Old” Europe, there is an enormous amount of resources available to potential travelers to assist in their pursuit of the country’s specialties. Of these the Helm Guides “Where to Watch Birds,” were particularly helpful. There are two volumes, one devoted to Extremadura & Andalusia, and one focusing on the remaining North and Eastern portions of the country. Another necessity for those spending any significant amount of time in the south is the inimitable John Butler’s “Where to Watch Birds on Spain’s Southern Coast,” this is more direct and simple to peruse than the Helms Guides, and while not as expansive is highly accessible and strait-forward. The countless trip reports and threads devoted to Spain available on the internet are also an invaluable commodity and careful research of these should be done prior to departure to maximize species list potential. The Collin’s Guide is the best field resource available for identifying the birds of the Western Palearctic.
Timing & Planning
Academic work forced me into the timing of this trip. Overall it worked out fairly well, as I was able to see and search out most all of the resident species beginning to increase activity in anticipation of breeding, as well as the bulk of the migratory breeding species which were just beginning to arrive over the latter portion of my stay. If you are concerned about the heat of late spring and summer, I found conditions in early April quite temeparate, sunny and cool, although strong winds (“Levante” as they call it), were a problem at times and the weather in the Pyrenees was extremely bitter and inhospitable to birding. Overall, in order to have the best chance to see all or most of the breeding specialties a trip in late April/Early May would be far better. I missed several good species like Roller, Olivaceous Warbler, White-rumped Swift (although they typically don’t arrive until late May), Little Bittern, Golden Oriole and others because they had not, or the bulk of them, had not yet arrived.
In terms of where to go and where not to go, here is my advice: You can see all or virtually all the birds of Spain by visiting the following sites and their surrounding environs, which I found beautiful, accessible and rich in avifauna: 1) Cabo de Gata in Almeria; 2) Ebro Delta in Catalunya; 3) The High Pyrenees around Jaca; 4) Donana National Park; 5) The Steppelands and Monfrague in Caceres, Extremadura; 6) The Mountainous National Parks of the South around Malaga. 3 or 4 days at all of the preceding, in hindsight, would be ideal. The Costa Del Sol, Costa Del Luz, and especially the Costa Almeria, being as they are largely developed and over-crowded with tourists and natives, I found stressful and disappointing. Sites much trumpeted in the guides and trip reports like Norias Lagoon, Roquetas De Mar and the Mar Menor in Murcia are depressing not only because they are hard to get to in a car, and because of the unbroken chain of abysmal sky-scrapers surrounding them, but also because I found all the sites in these regions genuinely lacking in bird activity compared to less spoilt sites. Seeing a cement truck from a construction site dumping waste into a lagoon at what is supposed to be the natural park of Roquetas de Mar was a disappointing and upsetting experience. The larger, non-coastal National Parks are generally, however, very well managed, beautiful and inspiring.
The Rough Guides are, as far as I can tell, the best guides to where to stay and what to do unrelated to birds in Spain, in case you are more psychologically balanced than I, and actually want to see and do things unrelated to twitching and ticking.
Overall the people of Spain are very helpful and good natured. Having been robbed there, however, and generally ogled at disapprovingly frequently, it is necessary to qualify that statement by reminding all birders, especially those with expensive optical equipment to remain vigilant and on guard, for there are many who will take advantage of you given the chance (remedial lessons for life, I know).
March 12 - Mouth of the Guadalhorce and the Malaga Mountains, Malaga
Morning & Early Afternoon
Situated in the heart of Spain’s southern coast, just west of Malaga, the mouth of the Guadalhorce river and estuary have received special recognition as a natural park, and though the area is quite small and sandwiched between huge urbanizations, it offers a good half-day's birding and introduction to Spanish Avifauna. Seawatching from an elevated look-out I found particularly productive. I recorded here: Black-necked Grebe, Little Grebe, several critically endangered Balearic Shearwaters, Cory’s Shearwater, an out of place Manx Shearwater , Common Scoter, Great Cormorant, Little Egret, Grey Heron, a flock of 10-12 young Greater Flamingos, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Eurasian Wigeon, Eurasian Teal, Common Pochard, several endangered White-headed Duck, Ruddy Duck (alarming as their hybridization with the former has almost certainly led to that birds decline), Booted Eagle, Marsh Harrier, Common Buzzard, Eurasian Kestrel, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot, Purple Swam-hen, Pied Avocet, Common Sandpiper, Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed-Plover, Kentish Snowy Plover, Whimbrel, Several large flocks of Auduoin’s Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Black-headed Gull, Little Gull, Eurasian Collared-dove, Hoopoe, Monk Parakeet (Int.), Crested Lark, Sand Martin, migrant Crag Martin, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, House Martin, White Wagtail, Blue-headed Wagtail, Black Redstart, Blackcap, Sardinian Warbler, Cetti’s Warbler, Chiffchaff, Great Tit, European Starling & House Sparrow.
Late Afternoon
En route to Antequera I stopped by the Montes de Malaga national park which encompasses a fairly substantial range of moderately high mountains in the southern coastal range. Unfortunately the fog was rather thick during my visit, and consequently I only gave it a cursory hour or two. The common European birds were fairly numerous but only a few things of real interest were found. Here I encountered: Winter Wren, Blue Tit, Great Tit, Crested Tit, Chaffinch, Corn Bunting, Short-toed Treecreeper, Dunnock, Blackbird, & Mistle Thrush.
Evening
In the charming small city of Antequera, nesting Pallid Swifts put on quite a display in the spires of the ancient Cathedral.
March 13 - Laguna De Piedra near Campillos & Antequera, Malaga
Morning & Early Afternoon
The Laguna De Piedre is perhaps the most famous site in Spain for Greater Flamingos, thus it is an obligatory stop on any comprehensive tour (little did I know that there would scarcely be a notable lagoon in Spain which did not host these spectacular creatures during my visit). There were of course, other birds of interest here as well as in the surrounding farmland and olive groves. I found in and around the lagoon, and in the adjacent areas: 200-300 Greater Flamingo, Red-legged Partridge, European Golden Plover, all the common western European waders including Common Snipe, Lesser Black-backed & Black-headed Gull, Crested Lark, Thekla Lark & Skylark, Meadow Pipit, a surprising wintering or migrant Water Pipit, Stonechat, Whinchat and Southern Grey Shrike.
Evening
The ancient fortress above Antequera offered not only stunning views of the city but some surprisingly good birds nesting on or around the buildings and courtyards. These included: White Storks, Lesser Kestrel, Spotless Starlings, and Black Wheatear. There were also numerous European Serin in the garden cypresses of the old Castillo.
March 14 - El Chorro and Environs, Malaga
One of the key target habitats for any birder visiting the southern portions of Spain should be rocky, mountainous areas and gorges which are home to a good variety of alpine and scree specialists. The impressive El Chorro Gorge and the national park which surrounds it is well visited by tourists, and is known for its substantial populations of such mountaineers. Possessing a diversity of micro niches from baron rocky tops to enormous reservoirs, this particular park was probably the best locale overall to seek out a diversity of these southern Spanish montane specialist species. Here new birds and those of interest included: Great-crested Grebe, Griffon Vulture, Northern Goshawk, Sparrowhawk, Alpine Swift, Robin, Thekla Lark, Crag Martin, Black Wheatear, Long-tailed Tit, Crested Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper, Red-billed Chough, Common Raven, Spotless Starling, Blue Rock Thrush, Song Thrush, Siskin, Common Crossbill, Cirl Bunting, Rock Bunting and Dartford Warbler.
March 15 - Sierra de Nievas and Ronda, Malaga
Morning and Afternoon:
There was one obvious species that’s elusiveness and allure, having missed it at Chorro, demanded I remain to explore additional appropriate habitat in the central and north of Malaga Province: Bonelli’s Eagle. One of the most threatened of Europe’s bird this special raptor, though not nearly as famous as some of it’s bigger, more charismatic relatives (ie: Spanish Imperial Eagle) was a key target bird for the trip, and I headed to the Sierra de Nievas around Ronda to continue scouring the appropriate mountains and associated broad valleys. Noteworthy birds here included: Great views of hovering and courting Short-toed Eagles, Booted Eagle, Woodlark, Blue Rock Thrush, Firecrest, Coal Tit, Crag Martin, Southern Grey Shrike and Rock Bunting, but sadly no Bonelli’s.
Evening
Once you get to the old quarter containing, as it does the spectacular gorge and ancient bridge
spanning the city’s formidable canyon, Ronda is a very attractive place. Scanning down from a precipitous height on the bridge I had very good views of Rock Sparrow, Red-billed Chough and Crag Martin.
March 16 - Teba Sierra and Gorge, Malaga
The Sierra Teba is a very short rocky ridge that skirts the Campillos-Ronda road, and is dominated by the particularly attractive and accessible Teba Gorge at its center. This, I reckoned, was my last best chance for Bonelli’s Eagle, and thus I was prepared to spend as much of the day as was necessary at the site. A walk along the river which cuts through the mountains yielded all of the following: Numerous Black Wheatears, Dartford Warbler, Sardinian Warbler and Blackcap, Crag Martins, Both Kestrel species, Griffon Vultures, Little Egret and other more commonplace species. As the day wore on into early and mid afternoon I had still failed to find my Bonelli’s eagle, and largely as an act of desperation, I resolved to scale the summit, in hopes of a locating a more productive vantage point (I realized once on top I was apparently on restricted land…). I soon found a suitable rock in the midst of the scree somewhat flimsily sheltered from the wind by a large shrub, and decided to wait for Providence to cast a Bonelli’s in my path. Icy winds, and thick mist marred my prospects for several hours. I finally decided to call it quits and abandon all hopes for seeing Hieraaetus fasciatus and begin the descent to the road, which follows the cliff face on the east side of the gorge. About one third of the way down I stopped to enjoy a Lesser Kestrel perched in a crevice when a great westerly wind blew two magnificent Bonelli’s Eagles within yards at eye level. Patience it seem even more so in birding than in life, is indeed a virtue. Little did I suspect Providence would answer my prayers in such literal fashion!
March 17 - Roquetas De Mar and Las Norias, Almeria
I headed east along the coast today to begin searching for some of the desert specialties of southern and eastern Spain, my ultimate destination being Cabo De Gata which I would use as a base for exploring the national park of the same name, and its surrounding environs. The most obvious way to get there from Malaga was to use the N 340, and this took me past a couple sites that were much celebrated in the guides and trip reports. I arrived at the first, Roquetas de Mar, early in the afternoon and was horrified at the close proximity of massive construction projects to the coastal park and even more so at a large truck dumping refuse of some kind (reminiscent of concrete dust) into a section of the wetland. Not surprisingly, the bird activity here, so extolled in the research I had done, was disappointing. Powerful onshore winds made raging sand blasts on the beach a stinging problem but had the bonus of blowing some pelagics into view. These bright spots included: Northern Gannet, Levantine Shearwater, Balearic Shearwater, Cory’s Shearwater, Northern Gannet, Auduoin’s Gull and Lesser Black-backed Gull. I also encountered my first Spotted Redshank of the trip, and a Hoopoe perched a top some driftwood.
Later that day at Las Norias Lagoon, I found scenery just as, if not more depressing than Roquetas. Even though apparently possessing the designation of a regional or local park, Las Norias Lagoon situated in the middle of a sea of plastic Greenhouses, is reminiscent of a massive garbage dump filled with water. This is, in any event, the impression I got scoping the entire area from the main road which passes directly next to it. While there were a fair amount of ducks here including: White-headed, Northern Shoveler, Pochard, Pintail, Mallard and also three Grebe species, I could not discern why this site has been held in such high regard by many visitors to Spain. Perhaps there is another side to the place with separate access that I just wasn’t aware of. I departed with lead-foot haste.
March 18 - Cabo De Gata, Almeria
Judging from my experience and research, Cabo De Gata is the premier location in Spain to experience the desert specialties, and additionally possesses some particularly good Salinas. I found accommodation in the rather high end and charming little town of San Jose to be ideal for a multi-day visit, with easy access to the main street cars, and plenty of provisions. I spent the morning birding along the narrow coastal road which leads from the tiny beach and tourist town of Cabo de Gata through the Sierra de Cabo de Gata to the impressive light house that sits a top shear ocean cliffs. It is an impressive, rugged and beautiful meeting of ocean and rock, that upon commencing the ascent away from the long sandy beach encounters russet and mountains and cliff-faces reminiscent of the Big Sur coast near my home in California. Near the road and around the Light house I encountered an impressive array of highly desirable, attractive or interesting birds. They were: Trumpeter Finch (many score), Lesser Short-toed Lark, Black Wheatear, Northern Wheatear, Black-eared Wheatear, Shag, Common Tern, Ruddy Turnstone, Peregrine Falcon and Thekla Lark. Later that afternoon a quick stop at the rear pull out behind Los Salinas produced a solid assortment of waders and water birds including: Garganey, Teal, Pintail, Pochard, Spoonbill, Auduoin’s Gull, Greater Flamingos, Sandwich Tern, Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Stilts and Avocets, Red Knot, both Godwits and Little Stint. An impressive day’s list for an impressive park.
March 19 - Cabo De Gata, Almeria
Having found Trumpeter Finch, this day was to be devoted to finding one of the most difficult birds of the W. Palearctic: Dupont’s Lark. There is reputed to be a fairly substantial population several kilometers to the north of Las Almoladeras, and thinking best to test the conventional wisdom that “El Diablo” is easiest to track down by song, at dawn and at dusk, I hiked out into the desert of thyme and false esparto grass to look and listen. Despite abundant Thekla, Skylarks, Crested Larks and Lesser-short Toed Larks I could locate no Duponts at dawn, dusk or throughout the day which I spent patiently meandering through the desert. There wasn’t much else around either, save the occasional Dartford Warbler, Serin, Greenfinch, and a large gathering of European Golden-Plovers in a plowed field not too far north of the main road. The temperature was pleasant enough, however, and being largely a stranger to deserts I passed the day in quiet, meditative wandering.
March 20 - Cabo De Gata, Almeria
Morning
No friend to defeat, I awoke even more determined to find a Dupont’s Lark. I explored the Sierra Almahilla just Northeast of Almeria city but found no discernable trails or walking routes, and encountered a good deal of private residences throughout the area. Disappointed, I returned yet again to the area of Las Almoladeras in a fit of determination. I hiked much further into the desert, so much so that I could neither hear nor see any sign of a humanity or civilization and was surrounded solely by the vast and endless planes of desert. As I continued into the great infinity that lay before me a small tan figure flushed just a few feet to my left, flew a dozen or so yards and landed: off I went in pursuit. It was a familiar routine; see a little brown bird-pray it’s a Dupont’s-see that it’s not. I had no reason to expect anything other than the four common species I had thus far encountered, other than the fact that the flash of glimpse I caught of the bird in flight looked just a smidge unfamiliar. As I neared the bird’s landing point I was surprised to not witness it flush again. I stalked closer and closer and then, found it within yards of where I stood motionless. I then watched a slender, upright Lark with a long de-curved bill dapperly running away on foot as it wearily glanced at me over its shoulder. There’s no mistaking el Diablo once you seen him. Dupont’s Lark. The desert had yielded its most precious jewel of all, at mid-morning and in plain view.
Afternoon
After my rewarding morning I returned to the Salinas, where in addition to all the birds I saw there yesterday I found yet more Trumpeter Finch flocks in the dune scrub between the Salinas and the road as well as a ravishingly beautiful Slender-billed Gull and a Curlew Sandpiper.
March 21 - Mar Menor, Murcia
Morning and Afternoon
It was now time to try for some of Eastern Spain’s specialties, and en route to Valencia province and some of its major wetlands I spent a good chunk of the day at Mar Menor, Spain’s largest inland sea. The area is rather difficult to navigate through as there is quite a maze of minor roads, cities and resorts through which you have to travel to get to the birds. While I did see a couple decent and new species in the area, and while some areas do have good potential for breeding species, a visit to Mar Menor may not be worth braving the labyrinthine developments, at least for a first time tourist. This was, nonetheless, the only locale where I had good looks at handsome Mediterranean Gulls on the trip. There were also both numerous Caspian and Yellow-legged Gulls near the beach at the Salinas de San Pedro de Pinetar. As ever Flamingos, Stilts and Avocets, abounded in the Saltponds. A look over the dune and scrub habitat near the Salinas in search of passerines may also be worth while, as I found Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, Shrikes, Serin and the 4 common lark species abundant in the area. On the banks of Mar Menor to the south of San Pedro de Pinetar, there was moderate shorebird activity which included many of the usual species as well as my first Common Greenshank of the trip, in addition to migrant Sandwich and Gull-billed Terns, Common Shelduck and more striking Slender-billed Gulls. In the reeds surrounding the area there were more larks, Cetti's and Reed Warbler and Zitting Citiscola.
Evening
While driving through the citrus country of inland southern Valencia, at dusk, there was one, early, Migrant Red-necked Nightjar pursuing insects along the freeway.
March 22 - El Hondo and Las Salinas de Santa Pola, Valencia
Morning
El Hondo is the most famous site in Spain for Marbled Teal, a species which is extremely endangered in continental Europe and globally threatened. I had assumed that this site was reliable for them both in and out of the breeding season, but was apprised otherwise by the very helpful and knowledgeable staff when I first arrived at El Hondo. Apparently if you want to see their Marbled Teal, you need to do so in late Spring or Summer. Additionally, please note that to properly visit El Hondo it is necessary to call ahead and make an appointment. Their number can be found online or in the Helm Guides. Being ignorant of this, I was only able to bird around the periphery of the reserve and make an appointment to return in a couple days, for a more thorough survey. Luckily, at the far southern boundary of El Hondo there is a paved track bordered by several meters of thick reads adjacent to the reserve proper. Here I found cacophonous flocks of Whiskered Tern flying overhead, occasionally joined by hunting Marsh Harriers. In the reeds and on the track there were Chiffchaffs, Iberian Chiffchaffs, Willow, Dartford, Sardinian, Cetti’s, Sedge and Reed Warblers, Zitting Citiscola, Water Pipit, Robin, and Black Redstart on the track itself.
Afternoon
I traveled along the N-340 south of Santa Pola which skirts Las Salinas, an area with more highly visible Greater Flamingos as well as a good variety of duck and waders. Here I had good views of wild Red-crested Pochards as well as numerous other duck species and waders. This was also the scene of an unfortunate crime in which my wallet, cash and credit cards were stolen from me. A word to the “wiser-than-I” If anyone ever approaches you in Spain to talk about football, whatever you do keep at least 3 meters between you and them at all times. Also, if possible when in Spain, always deal with the Metropolitan Police, not the Guardia Civil. Enough said on that front.
March 23 - Santa Pola, Valencia
Spent the day dealing with the police and financial institutions.
March 24 - El Hondo, Valencia
Anxious to divert my mind from the stress of the past couple days, I gave the birds of El Hondo my full attention and was duly rewarded. After being personally escorted deep into the park by a charming, knowledgeable and extremely helpful ranger I had the pleasure of enjoying all of the following birds of interest in the reeds, the lagoons and surrounding habitat: Reed Warbler, Whiskered Tern, Water Rail, Penduline Tit, Iberian Chiffchaff, Sedge Warbler, Moustached Warbler, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, Stone Curlew, Spoonbill, Booted Eagle, Blue-headed Wagtail, Little and Greater Ringed-Plover, Montagu’s Harrier, Common Swift, Red-rumped Swallow, Garganey and an extravaganza of the common wetland avifauna. A great site, and a mandatory stop if you’re in Valencia.
March 25 - Rio Ebro Delta-North Bank, Catalunya
The Rio Ebro Delta forms an enormous wetland area, that while largely interspersed with agricultural land, nevertheless possesses a good diversity of interesting sites. It is second only to Donana in magnitude, and is probably the best place for a single visit that purposes to survey the habitat and birds of eastern Spain. I devoted the 25th to exploring its northern portions
Morning - Canal Veil
Searching from both atop the lookout tower at the south of canal veil and the environs around it I observed the following: Tree Sparrow, Chiffchaff, Reed Warbler, Purple Swamp-hen, Garganey, Gadwall, Purple Heron, Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Grey Heron, Great White Heron, Greater Flamingo, Hoopoe, Marsh Harrier, Osprey, Spoonbill, Black-necked Grebe, Shelduck, Stilts and Avocets, Oystercatcher, Slender-billed Gull, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern, Whiskered Tern.
Afternoon Surrounding, El Garxal, Private Rice Fields and Los Olles
At the large lagoon of El Garxal there was an impressive assortment of shorebirds including all the regular waders and 2-3 Marsh Sandpipers, along with many duck species including Garganey and Red-crested Pochard. There were also more Whiskered Terns and Slender-billed Gulls here. At and on my way to the two small lagoons at Los Olles I observed most of the aforementioned species, but at a closer, more accessible range.
March 26 - 2005, Rio Ebro Delta-South Bank Catalunya
Today I spent the majority of my time in the southern portion of park, on the southern bank of the Ebro River. These sites were generally bigger, better and more productive than those of the Northern bank, and as the delta is a huge area and crossing the river can be a bit time consuming, I would focus on the southern portions if I had only limited time.
Morning - Isla De Buda and El Calaixos
I found Isla De Buda and the area around El Calaixos to be the best single location in the Rio Ebro Delta. From the towering mirador one enjoys unencumbered views of the surrounding marshes. The wetlands and farm fields around the area were teeming with Purple Swamp-hens and I recorded several Glossy Ibis here as well-my first of the trip. I also saw: Caspian Tern, Cattle Egret, Little Egret, Greater Flamingo, Shelduck, Gadwall, Marsh Harrier, Stilt, Avocet, Kentish Plover, Slender-billed Gull, Sandwich Tern, Common Tern, Whiskered Tern, Lesser Short-toed lark, Common Kingfisher, Zitting Citiscola, Cetti’s Warbler, Reed Bunting, Purple Heron, Grey Heron, Spoonbill, Water Rail, Lesser black-backed Gull, and all the expected waders
Afternoon - La Tancada and L’Encanyissada
These two sights produced many of the same birds as above and included a Northern Lapwing and another Marsh Sandpiper. As late afternoon wore on I departed for the Northwest and Gallocanta in neighboring Aragon.
March 27 - Laguna de Galloncata
I only had time for a morning visit to this seasonal lake in Aragon, as I was in the process of diagonally halving the country from Northeast to Southwest to meet my girlfriend in Seville where she would join me for a week’s birding in Sevilla and Huelva. Galloncata is famous for its wintering population of Cranes. Many tens of thousands of these elegant birds breeding in Fenno-Scandinavia winter at locales throughout the steppelands and marshes of Spain. Galloncata attracts the bulk of these birds, particularly in late winter/early spring passage when during wet years scores of thousands crowd the late. I wasn’t sure if I would even see a single crane however, as 2004/2005 has been a particularly dry year and I had missed the late February/Early March peak by more than a month. Nevertheless I followed one of the dusty tracks to a tall elevated hide viewing what was left of the shrunken lake. Soon enough I caught a glimpse of a lonely looking party of about a dozen Common Crane ambling towards me as they fed. They eventually walked within 50 yards of my perch atop the mirador. Any Crane is truly a magnificent creature. In the steppelands around the lake I also observed the following: Little Bustard, Black Kite, Red Kite, Calandra Lark, Thekla Lark, Crested Lark, and countless Corn Bunting. The lake itself which I paid scant attention to was rather quiet save a lone Curlew, a couple Mallards and a Gadwall.
March 28 - Transit to Seville
There was one Merlin seen flying close over the car as I approached Cordoba, presumably a migrant.
March 29 - Rest in Seville
March 30 - Brazo Del Este, Sevilla
The Brazo del Este is a portion of the Rio Gualaquiver Delta much prasied both in the guides and by those who have visited it as a highly productive site rivaling Donana in its diversity and appeal. While it is assuredly worth a visit, I would not go so far as to put it in the same league as Donana. One main problem in visiting Brazo is its difficult-to-find location. One needs to traverse a seemingly endless maze of dirt tracks through farm roads to get to the area worth birding. Indeed, we spent the entire morning wandering around disced fields trying to locate it. Once we arrived however we did indeed enjoy a good array of birds at good, close photographable range: These included good looks at Purple Heron, Purple Swamp-hen, Spoonbill, Whiskered Tern, White Stork, Montagu’s Harrier, Marsh Harrier, Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Blue-headed Wagtail, and Woodchat Shrike and all the normal wintering and migratory duck species. Wadersincluded all the expected birds, both Godwits, Stilts and avocets. The real Coup de gras, came, however, when I placed my bins on a small, elegant, tan duck in one of the smaller ponds…….. “hmmm” I thought “…female Pintail? No. no…. wait a minute…..yep rich grey and cream marbling on the back…could it be?...Marbled Teal?” Given my previous belief that the only reliable way to see these endangered birds was at El Hondo in the east I was very surprised indeed, but sure enough here was a Marbled Teal, at Brazo del Este, in the southwest, where they are sometimes apparently known during winter and on passage. Closer inspection revealed that there were three more individuals in the same general area where I saw the first bird. Duly pleased with ourselves we headed for El Rocio.
March 31 - Donana National Park and El Rocio, Huelva
Morning - Madre de las Marismas, the old S.E.O. Observatory and environs
Stepping out of the doors of the Hotel Turono and witnessing in daylight for the first time the lagoon at El Rocio, you understand why they call it the mother of all marshes. Not only is it vast, but from a birders perspective the only patchy presence of tall reeds and the extensive, easy boardwalks make scoping and birding the lagoon a cake-walk. The amount of birds as well as their diversity is awe-inspiring. Standing in a single location for a matter of minutes you can see the neon pink and black of greater flamingos flashing underneath hundreds of hunting pratincoles, terns and 4 or 5 species of swallows, all set against a back drop of endless ducks and waders. There is the added bonus of a good amount of diverse land-bird habitat around the lagoon to maximize ticking opportunities. Highlights here included one Red-knobbed Coot, complete with knob and no white neck-ring (apparently oftentimes placed on the grebes by researches to be able to distinguish them from the countless European Coots in the area.) as well at least a couple Ferruginous Ducks associating in the center of the lagoon with the far more numerous common Pochards. There was a good diversity of hindurines in the area, with Sand and House Martin as well as Red-rumped and Barn Swallows abundant overhead. These were frequently joined by larger Common Swifts. All the normal Waders were in the area and the few reeds around the marsh offered excellent views of Sedge and Cetti’s Warbler as well as Iberian Chiffchaff. In the Eucalyptus trees behind the burnt out SEO observatory we observed Greater Whitethroats, Blackcaps and Subalpine Warblers in addition to several Spotless Starlings. Moseying (and believe me in Rocio….it is appropriate to “mosey” down the dirt roads, O.K. Corral style-you even get the added incentive of local yokels sitting on there porch shooting off guns just for kicks) north of the lagoon around some parches farmland we had excellent looks at Tawny Pipit and Ortolan Bunting within minutes of each other. Hundreds of Collared Pratincoles dazzled overhead.
March 31 - Puenta de la Canariega, El Centro de Visitantes and Madre de Marismas, Donana, Huelva
Puenta de la Canariega is a marshy area that joins the Arroyo de Rocina with the Madre marsh and is best observed (carefully) from around the bridge that passes over it. From here you can enjoy good views again of Madre as well as peeks into the marshes associated with the arroyo and El Centro. Here we had particularly good views of swallows, swifts and Whiskered Terns that nest in the area; generally, a good look out spot, though nothing new of note was added here. El Centro, which is the landmark for the area of marshes surrounding la Canariega and the Arroyo de Rocina, was just a few yards away from the bridge. We found this area particularly lush, beautiful diverse and productive. Within minutes we enjoyed close and stunning views of Squacco Heron, Purple Heron, White Stork and Glossy Ibis. Purple Swamp-hens were again abundant here, and we had excellent comparative looks between a Reed and Savis Warbler, both these latter birds were in the area of thick swampy reads surrounding the first bridge crossing over the wetlands. Crested Tits and Common Cuckoos were both heard in the forested areas, and there were both Marsh Harriers and Red Kites overhead. At dusk we spotted several Black-crowned Night-herons emerging from their roosts to hunt.
April 1 - Palacio de Acebron and El Acebuche, Donana, Huelva
Morning - El Palacio
El Palacio de Acebron is a mildly interesting old manor house with good surrounding woodlands. Indeed, I would say, that particularly for a non European birder it has some appeal as it offers a good introduction to the basic woodland birds of Europe, as well as providing good opportunities to see the much sought after Azure-winged Magpie. Here we recorded Short-toed Treecreeper, Robin, Nightingale, Jay, Greater-spotted Woodpecker, Nuthatch, and all the expected tits. There was a Griffon Vulture or two flying overhead as well as a couple more Black-crowned Night-herons perched along the periphery of the lake beside the palace, and we did get good but brief looks at a couple of Azure-winged Magpies in flight.
Afternoon - El Acebuche
This large complex of wetlands and lagoons is the flagship of publicly accessible sites in Donana; that is if you are a generic eco-tourist and not a birder. Though we saw some good birds in the area, especially in the more far flung hides, the area was loaded with people and trying to do serious birding while crowded in a hide with lay persons and kids, though encouraging on the public education front, is frankly a little annoying when you’re feverishly seeking lifers. Here we, nevertheless had excellent experiences with European Bee-eater, Northern Wheatear, White Stork, Purple Heron, Red-crested Pochard and Sharpe’s Woodpecker. Water levels were extremely low in some areas, and this may have contributed to the comparative paucity of birds at this site.
April 2 - The Valverde or J.A.V. Center, Donana, Huelva
The road to the JAV center from Rocio is a long complex maze of dusty, pot-holed roads, that were it not for superb directions in Butler’s guide, would surely have lead us into the garage of some irate Spanish farmer. The long route, which winds through forested portions of Donana, towns, farm fields and wetland channels, if seemingly circuitous, does provide a chance to see a good diversity of species from the road. Shortly after making the first turn from Rocio we saw our first Greater Spotted Cuckoo of the trip. All along the track there were abundant European Bee-eaters and near some barren ag fields we encountered a large and charming flock of Spanish Sparrows. Approaching JAV, thrushes were abundant in the stony farm fields, and included both Black-eared Wheatear and Common Redstart in addition to the more common species. There was also a pair of Lesser Kestrels on an old farm structure, and a migrant Northern Harrier in the area. Once reached, the center itself is a convenient little place that provides good photographic opportunities of all the regular and common wetland avifauna through the large glass walls of the visitor’s center facing the lagoon. A large party of Squacco Heron here were quite delightful as were excellent but all too brief views of both Little and Baillon’s Crake. Enjoying such close views of Greater Flamingos, Purple Swamp-hens and a good variety of waders was a real treat.
April 3 - The Rock of Gibraltar
I was convinced by some research prior to our arrival on the rock, that Gibraltar was an unmissable opportunity to observe hordes of birds migrating across the straits from north Africa at close range. The way in which birding in the area was described, it seemed as though a great part of the migration would be visible without too much effort. This was not the case. Weather was quite bad with thick fog and mists, and I soon concluded that a fair amount of information as to the direction of the winds, and different birds different reactions to those prevailing winds was required to be able to actually witness the migration in any noteworthy way. I also learned subsequently, that the site at Tarifa on the mainland is generally regarded as a better spot to view the migration. The only even moderately interesting birds that we enjoyed on the rock were the Iberian form of Pied Flycatcher up near the Ape den, a young Auduoin’s Gull with the massive Yellow-legged flock near the lighthouse, and a Blue Rock Thrush in that same area.
April 4 - Laguna de Medina, Cadiz
En route to drop Kimberly at the Sevilla Airport we paused at Laguna de Medina for a couple hours. She had not yet seen the endangered White-headed duck which I had found rather wide spread on the central and south-east coast. They were reputed to breed at Medina, and sure enough, shortly after our arrival we found a flock of about a dozen White-headed Ducks, not far from the shore. The trail at Medina follows the south bank of the lake and is lined with a fair amount of vegetation on either side. All the resident warblers were present as were Reed, Sedge and the real highlight, the thrush sized Great Reed-Warbler. Marsh harriers were abundant here, and there was a lone, elegant and stately Osprey, which being rather rare in Spain was the highlight for some local Spanish birders we encountered there. All the common duck were present including large numbers of Red-crested Pochard. After dropping Kimberly in Sevilla I headed northward, alone, to Extremadura.
April 5 - Steppelands of Caceras, Extremadura
It is clear that for birders around Europe the steppelands of Caceras around Trujillo and Caceras proper, are the preferred area for seeking the steppe specialties, and while this is the only stepped area I searched in detail, I must say I agree with this general sentiment, as I found the area highly accessible and rich in the specialist avifauna. Arriving in the favorite sections by mid-afternoon, I almost immediately saw a pair of magnificent male Great Bustards from along side the highway that allowed a couple good minutes of study after pulling over to take a better look. Following the minor road to Santa Marta De Magasca, I found no more bustards, of either species, but enjoyed the abundant Calandra Larks, along with many Thekla and Crested Larks, as well as excellent views of two hauntingly magnificent European Black (or Cinereous) Vultures feeding on a carcass. Common Cuckoos were fairly abundant in the area, and in the dehesa woodlands Azure-winged Magpies were everywhere. Montagu’s and Black Harriers were the common raptor species, though both Kestrel species were also fairly abundant. Rock Buntings could occasionally be seen in the stone-studded dehasa lands. Swinging back out onto the main road, I explored the small farm tracks, to the south of the N-521. In these pasturelands I had more good experiences with large numbers of Great Bustards which, I was, oddly enough, finding far more conspicuous, if not abundant than their diminutive relatives, though much of this I suppose can be attributed to their towering bulk. At dusk I took a small paved road which breaks off of the road to Santa Marta de Magasca, and tracks due north, looping around the Embalse de Guadiloba. Here I had stunning views of Little Bustards only 3-4 yards from my car, more views of Great Bustard and enjoyed a decent size flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse flying overhead, at sunset. An area well-deserving of its high reputation.
April 6 - Monfrague and Santa Marta Steppelands, Extremadura
Morning and Afternoon
If I were forced to chose one single site in the whole of Spain and award it with the mantle of “best place to bird,” it would have to be Monfrague. The scenery is unequaled and the birds incredible, especially owing to Monfrague’s rich and globally important population of raptors. I began my first investigation of the park early in the morning atop the old Castillo, and though socked in with fog, managed to get close views of a soaring Egyptian Vulture. I remained vigilant for about an hour, but it soon became clear that this high fog, obviously limited to only the most altitudinous peaks in the park, wasn’t going anywhere, so I headed back down the mountain and continued along the main road. At the first major pullout designed specifically to observe the roosting, nesting and hunting vultures within the spectacular gorge, I saw more Egyptian Vultures, along with hordes of Griffon Vultures and a handful of Black-Vultures. Crag Martins were everywhere, and a calling Peregrine skirted the highest crags. Blue Rock Thrush and Rock Buntings could be observed quite close to the road, and a calling, iridescent Black Stork perched at eye level across the river on a scrubby outcrop. The scrubland’s traversed by Monfrague’s main road are full of Dartford and Sardinian Warblers, and though Spectacled Warblers are reputed to breed in the area I could find none. As the road wandered on past Villareal I found Hawfinches abundant in the short deciduous trees approaching the Bascula Viewpoint. I continued to see Black Storks periodically along the river. The real highlight of the day came when I encountered a gang of multinational birders near the exit of the park around the Portilla de Tietar. Hearing these enthusiasts bantering in half-dozen European languages, sporting all kinds of equipment from lawn chairs to coolers to high-end film-making equipment, it was obvious that I had found the Spanish Imperial Eagle’s famous nesting site within Monfrague. Sure enough, after milling about among the group for a minute or two, the mated pair of Eagles switched places on their giant nest, as one bird brought a large branch to its counterpart in one of its talons then banked over our heads. As if this weren’t enough of a treat a couple of us soon located the also well-known Eagle-Owl nest just a few hundred yards down from the Imperial Eagle tree. Here I had amazing views of four massive downy chicks and their devoted mother under the shade of a scrub in their rocky bower.
Evening
Having been worked into frenzy by the day’s events I returned to the Santa Marta Steppelands where I had seen the Sandgrouse and Little Bustard the night before in hopes of photographing these species and seeing the last missing steppe species on my list, Black-bellied Sandgrouse. I succeeded on all counts. Indeed, watching a pair of gorgeous Black-bellied Sandgrouse flying to the Embalse to drink in the amber light of sunset will likely remain my most enduring memory of the entire trip. Good views of a hunting Little Owl was an added bonus.
April 7 - Monfrague and Caceres Dehesa, Extremadura
I spent today in search of the one remaining Extremadura specialty that I had not yet found; Black-winged Kite. I was unsuccessful, though in the course of the day searching the oak dehesa habitats both north and south of Monfrague, I had additional good experiences with many of the birds already described. These mixed woodland and pasturelands were rich in Azure-winged Magpies, Bee-eaters and Hoopoes, along with Spanish Sparrows, Spotless Starlings and many of the other common European woodland birds. Of particular interest for Spain was a Mistle Thrush just outside the northern exit of Monfrague.
April 8 - Caceres Dehasa, Extremadura
After running into some German birders at a café in Trujillo who provided me with some specific instructions to the famous Black-winged Kite site near Monroy, I decided to give these elegant little raptors one last go before heading north towards Aragon. The site is on the minor Torrejon El Rubio-Monroy Road, in an area of farmland and dehesa just a couple miles short of reaching the latter town, and is marked by a row of pine trees on a hillside and some large power-lines. After finding the location, it took only a half-hour to find not one, not two but THREE Black-winged Kites that could all be seen within the same field of view. Fantastic! I also enjoyed good looks at a Greater Spotted Cuckoo in the same area.
April 9 - Boca de Infierno, Hecho Valley, Aragon
After a long drive I finally arrived in the Pyrenees mountains, and with several hours of sunlight left, headed for the spectacular Boca de Infierno in the Hecho Valley, the historically famous site for Wallcreeper. Had I known this one afternoon would be the only marginally tolerable day in the higher portions of the Pyrenees during my four day stay, I would have surely made an extra effort to explore the lately more productive site at Gabardito, unfortunately I had not brought along my crystal ball. Though there was no Wallcreeper at Boca de Infierno, I did get great views of a soaring adult Lammergeier amidst the Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, as well as quality experiences with Red Kites. The woodlands around the stream in the area hosted a variety of European woodland birds including Bullfinch, and the stream itself revealed both a handsome Dipper and a Grey Wagtail feeding in the rapids. Rock Bunting, Crested Tit, Coal Tit and Cirl Bunting were all fairly easy at various spots along the road
April 10 - San Juan de La Pena, Aragon
Early this morning I attempted to re-traverse the Hecho Valley to try again at Boca de Infierno and Gabardito for Wallcreeper. I got as far as the village of Hecho when temperatures sunk to below -10 c and fierce winds made observation difficult. Additionally my rental car had difficult in navigating the slick roads. I hoped that weather might improve the next day and opted to go to the more temperate mountains and woodlands around the S.J. de la Pena monastery instead. I had hoped to find Black Woodpecker in these woods where they are reputed to breed, but found only Greater-spotted Woodpeckers. Indeed, while again, the common woodland species were all present I found nothing of great interest, save a lone Sparrowhawk, a Treecreeper, a Goldcrest and a couple of Red-billed Chough. The blizzard that I had encountered at Hecho suddenly reached the mountain, and I was forced to find my way back to the car in the midst of the ice blast. It was, oddly enough along the road on my way to the car that I observed two Alpine Accentors at close range feeding along the road. What’s a little pneumonia compared to fine views of this elusive member of an elusive family?
April 11 - Upper Pyrenees, Aragon
After bad conditions forced me out of the Hecho Valley again, I decided to give the quarry just north of Villanua on the road to France a go, as it has been known in the past as a productive Wallcreeper site. Weather was just as bad here as in Hecho, but the quality of the road and the pull out in the area allowed me to scope the quarry and the surrounding cliff-faces in spite of the onslaught. After about a half-hour in the driving sleet I gave up but only after having had my first and only good looks at Alpine Chough of the trip. Overall, adisappointing time in the Pyrenees, but a good excuse to return to this area which I found likely the most beautiful and enchanting in all of Spain.
April 12 - Transit to Malaga
April 13 - Mouth of the Gualadhorce, Malaga
Having returned to Malaga to catch my flight back to London on the 14th and return my rental car, I thought it appropriate to spend my last day birding at the very place I had begun. There wasn’t too much change over between the species seen on this day and on the 12th more than one month earlier when the journey began, with the exception of a migrant Melodious Warbler a migrant Tree Pipit and several Black-eared Wheatears. I nevertheless enjoyed seeing what had become the familiar faces of Spain one last time before I left them. As the sun set in the west and golden-pink rays of sunlight cast a vivid pallor on the delta, a jaunty male White-headed Duck quacked his adieu and the sonorous chortles of jewel-like Bee-eaters provided an appropriate and moving farewell ballad.
1. Black-necked Grebe
2. Little Grebe
3. Great-crested Grebe
4. Cory’s Shearwater
5. Manx Shearwater
6. Balearic Shearwater
7. Levantine Shearwater
8. Great Cormorant
9. Shag
10. Black-crowned Night-Heron
11. Cattle Egret
12. Little Egret
13. Great White Egret
14. Grey Heron
15. Purple Heron
16. Squacco Heron
17. White Stork
18. Black Stork
19. Eurasian Spoonbill
20. Greater Flamingo
21. Greylag Goose
22. Common Shelduck
23. Mallard
24. Gadwall
25. Northern Pintail
26. Northern Shoveler
27. Eurasian Wigeon
28. Marbeled Teal
29. Eurasian Common Teal
30. Garganey
31. Common Pochard
32. Red-crested Pochard
33. Ferruginous Duck
34. Tufted Duck
35. Common Scoter
36. White-headed Duck
37. Ruddy Duck
38. Lammergeier
39. Eurasian Griffon Vulture
40. Eurasian Black Vulture
41. Egyptian Vulture
42. Osprey
43. Spanish Imperial Eagle
44. Short-toed Eagle
45. Booted Eagle
46. Bonelli’s Eagle
47. Red Kite
48. Black Kite
49. Marsh Harrier
50. Black-winged Kite
51. Northern (Hen) Harrier
52. Montagu’s Harrier
53. Common Buzzard
54. Eurasian Sparrowhawk
55. Northern Goshawk
56. Common Kestrel
57. Lesser Kestrel
58. Peregrine Falcon
59. Merlin
60. Red-legged Partridge
61. Water Rail
62. Little Crake
63. Baillon’s Crake
64. Common Moorhen
65. Eurasian Coot
66. Red-knobbed Coot
67. Purple Swamp-hen
68. Common Crane
69. Great Bustard
70. Little Bustard
71. Eurasian Oystercatcher
72. Pied Avocet
73. Black-winged Stilt
74. Stone-Curlew
75. Collared Pratincole
76. Little Ringed Plover
77. Ringed Plover
78. Kentish “Snowy” Plover
79. Grey Plover
80. European Golden Plover
81. Northern Lapwing
82. Red Knot
83. Sanderling
84. Ruddy Turnstone
85. Dunlin
86. Curlew Sandpiper
87. Little Stint
88. Wood Sandpiper
89. Green Sandpiper
90. Common Sandpiper
91. Common Redshank
92. Spotted Redshank
93. Common Greenshank
94. Marsh Sandpiper
95. Black-tailed Godwit
96. Bar-tailed Godwit
97. Eurasian Curlew
98. Whimbrel
99. Common Snipe
100. Ruff
101. Black-headed Gull
102. Slender-billed Gull
103. Mediterranean Gull
104. Yellow-legged Gull
105. Caspian Gull
106. Audouin’s Gull
107. Lesser Black-backed Gull
108. Little Gull
109. Sandwich Tern
110. Gull-billed Tern
111. Common Tern
112. Caspian Tern
113. Whiskered Tern
114. Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
115. Black-bellied Sandgrouse
116. Feral Pigeon
117. Rock Dove
118. Stock Dove
119. Wood Pigeon
120. Eurasian Collared-Dove
121. Common Cuckoo
122. Great Spotted Cuckoo
123. Eagle Owl
124. Little Owl
125. Eurasian Scops-Owl
126. Red-necked Nightjar
127. Common Swift
128. Pallid Swift
129. Alpine Swift
130. Eurasian Hoopoe
131. Common Kingfisher
132. European Bee-eater
133. Monk Parakeet
134. Rose-ringed Parakeet
135. Sharpe’s Woodpecker
136. Great Spotted Woodpecker
137. Skylark
138. Crested Lark
139. Thekla Lark
140. Woodlark
141. Short-toed Lark
142. Lesser Short-toed Lark
143. Calandra Lark
144. Dupont’s Lark
145. Sand Martin
146. Crag Martin
147. Barn Swallow
148. Red-rumped Swallow
149. House Martin
150. Tawny Pipit
151. Water Pipit
152. Meadow Pipit
153. Tree Pipit
154. White Wagtail
155. Blue-headed Wagtail
156. Grey Wagtail
157. Winter Wren
158. White-throated Dipper
159. Dunnock
160. Alpine Accentor
161. European Robin
162. Common Nightingale
163. Common Redstart
164. Black Redstart
165. Northern Wheatear
166. Black-eared Wheatear
167. Black Wheatear
168. Whinchat
169. Stonechat
170. Blue Rock Thrush
171. Song Thrush
172. Mistle Thrush
173. Blackbird
174. Blackcap
175. Sardinian Warbler
176. Greater Whitethroat
177. Subalpine Warbler
178. Dartford Warbler
179. Sedge Warbler
180. Moustached Warbler
181. Zitting Citiscola
182. Savi’s Warbler
183. Cetti’s Warbler
184. Reed Warbler
185. Great Reed Warbler
186. Melodious Warbler
187. Willow Warbler
188. Chiffchaff
189. Iberian Chiffchaff
190. Goldcrest
191. Firecrest
192. Pied Flycatcher (Iberiae)
193. Great Tit
194. Blue Tit
195. Coal Tit
196. Crested Tit
197. Long-tailed Tit
198. Penduline Tit
199. Eurasian Nuthatch
200. Treecreeper
201. Short-toed Treecreeper
202. Woodchat Shrike
203. Southern Grey Shrike
204. Azure-winged Magpie
205. Black-billed Magpie
206. Eurasian Jay
207. Red-billed Chough
208. Alpine Chough
209. Eurasian Jackdaw
210. Carrion Crow
211. Common Raven
212. European Starling
213. Spotless Starling
214. House Sparrow
215. Spanish Sparrow
216. Tree Sparrow
217. Rock Sparrow
218. Common Chaffinch
219. Common Linnet
220. European Goldfinch
221. European Greenfinch
222. Eurasian Siskin
223. European Serin
224. Eurasian Bullfinch
225. Hawfinch
226. Common Crossbill
227. Trumpeter Finch
228. Reed Bunting
229. Ortolan Bunting
230. Corn Bunting
231. Rock Bunting
232. Cirl Bunting