Tanzania Birds (and mammals) 28th November to 17th December 2004

Published by Michel Watelet (michel.watelet AT swing.be)

Participants: Michel Watelet


Photos with this report (click to enlarge)

Crowned Eagle
Crowned Eagle


27/11 : Took of at Brussels airport at 11am, stop at Kigali and arrived in Nairobi at 23pm. Transfer to Heron Hotel in Nairobi.

28/11 : Walk in the morning in Nairobi, We started at 2 pm by bus to Arusha.
We arrived to Arusha at 6.30 pm and transfer to the Lodge 2000.

29/11 : We visited Arusha National Park. Night in the Lodge 2000.

30/11 : Journey Arusha – Tarangire National Park and we visited the park.

01/12 : Journey Tarangire - Manyara and we visited the lake Manyara National Park.

02/12 : Journey Lake Manyara to Ngorongoro to Serengeti.
Night in a camp site in the centre of the Serengeti.

03/12 : Observations in the Serengeti towards the north until Lobo.
Night at the camp site of Lobo. Careful, we were alone in this camp site and at least two Lion came at night! It is fun to tell now, but on that night …

04/12 : Observations around Lobo and after, journey until Lamadi in the Victoria lake. We plant our tent near the Speke bay Lodge.

05/12 : Observations around the Speke bay Lodge.

06/12 : Observations around the Speke bay Lodge.

07/12 : We returned to the centre of the Serengeti, and we slept in a camp site near Ikona gate.

08/12 : Observations in the centre of the Serengeti and after, journey to the camp site of the Ngorongoro.

09/12 : We visited the Ngorongoro crater in the morning and early afternoon. After we went to Mto wa nbu near the Lake Manyara. Night in the Kiboko Bush camp.

10/12 : Observations in the morning around the camp. Afternoon, journey to Arusha.

11/12 : Flight Arusha – Zanzibar, and Transfer to a lodge in the north of Stone Town. We visited Stone Town late afternoon.

12/12 : Observations early morning in the beach. We visited in the morning the Jozani Forest. Afternoon, transfer to the north part of the island near Kendwa. Accomodations in a lodge near Kendua.

13/12 : Accomodations in a lodge near Kendua.

14/12 : Accomodations in a lodge near Kendua.

15/12 : Accomodations in a lodge near Kendua.

16/12 : Journey in taxi to the airport and flight to Arusha afternoon. Transfer to the Lodge 2000.

17/12 : We visited Arusha in the morning. 2 pm we took a bus to Nairobi. We arrived at the airport at 19.30 pm. We took of at 22.30 pm with a stop in Ouganda.

18/12 : We arrived in Brussels airport at 7 am.

Observations by day, birds and mammals:


- Observations in Nairobi in the morning (2 ours in a park):

Long-tailed Cormorant, Marabou Stork (+or- 30 nests), sacred Ibis, Black Kite ssp parasiticus, African Harrier-Hawk (3), Little Swift, African Palm Swift, Speckled Mousebird, Little Bee-eater, Lesser Striped Swallow, Common Bulbul, Olive Thrush, Northern Pied Babbler, Abyssinian White-eye, Variable Sunbird, Common Fiscal, Pied Crow, Superb Starling, White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Baglafech Weaver, Holub’s Golden Weaver, Bronze Mannikin…

- Journey, Nairobi to Arusha in bus between 2 to 6.30 pm:

Common Ostrich 3f 1m, Marabou Stork, Black Kite, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk1 , Common Buzzard 1, African Hawk-Eagle 1, Lanner Falcon 1, Grey Crowned Crane 6, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Grey-headed Kingfisher 2, Lilac-breasted Roller, Rock Martin, Long-tailed Fiscal, Greater Blue-eared Starling…

Mammals: Thomson’s gazelle.


- Arusha National Park:

Little Grebe, Great Cormorant, Intermediate Egret 1, Great Egret, Black-headed Heron, Hamerkop, Hadada Ibis, Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Egyptian Goose, Spur-winged Goose, Maccoa Duck, Cape Teal, White-backed Duck, Southern Pochard, African Fish Eagle, Pallid Harrier, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Augur Buzzard, Tawny Eagle, African Crowned Eagle 1 (good view perching), Amur Falcon 1, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Jacana, Grey Crowned Crane 4, Black-winged Still, Pied Avocet, Blacksmith Lapwing, Common Ringed Plover, Ruff, Common Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, White-browed Coucal, White-rumped Swift, Horus Swift, Grey-headed Kingfisher, African Pygmy Kingfisher, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, White-fronted Bee-eater 1, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill 1m, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Lark sp, Banded Martin, Barn Swallow, Yellow Wagtail, Long-billed Pipit 1, Common Stonechat, Red-faced Crombec, Chin-spot Batis, Montane White-eye, Tropical Boubou, Red-billed Oxpecker, Red-winged Starling, Ashy Starling, Spectacled Weaver, Baglafecht Weaver, Yellow Bishop 1m non breeding, Black-and-White Mannikin, Streaky Seedeater…

Mammals: Common Zebra, Giraffe, Olive Baboon, Gentle Monkey, Guereza Colobus, African Buffalo, Bushbuck, Defassa Waterbuck, Harvey’s duiker, Bush duiker, Common warthog, Hippopotamus (2).


- Observations near Arusha, around the lodge 2000 early morning:

Schallow’s Wheatear, Willow Warbler, Pale Flycatcher, African Citril…

- Tarangire National Park:

Common Ostrich, White-headed Vulture, African White-backed Vulture, Tawny Eagle 2, Steppe Eagle 2 imm, Bateleur, Martial Eagle 1near ad and 1 imm, Grey Kestrel 1, Pygmy Falcon, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Red-necked Spurfowl, Crested Francolin, White-bellied Bustard (1m 1f), Crowned Lapwing, Three-banded Plover, Little Stint, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, African Orange-bellied Parrot 2, Yellow-collared Lovebird, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Mottled Spinetail 1, Woodland Kingfisher, Green Wood-hoopoe, Red-billed Hornbill, African Grey Hornbill, Red-and-yellow Barbet, Grey Woodpecker 1, Red-rumped Swallow, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Long-tailed Fiscal, Magpie Shrike, Slate-coloured Boubou 1, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Fork-tailed Drongo, Ashy Starling, Chestnut Sparrow, Rufous-tailed Weaver, White-headed Buffalo-Weaver, Red-billed Quelea, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Cut-throat Finch, White-bellied Canary, Yellow-rumped Seedeater…

Mammals: African elephant, Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Kirk’s dikdik, Eland, Impala, Bohor reedbuck, Banded mongoose, Black-becked jackal, Defassa Waterbuck, Thomson’s gazelle, Lesser elephant shrew.


Lake Manyara National Park:

Goliath Heron, Yellow-billed Stork, Black Egret, African Open-billed Stork, Saddle-billed Stork (3), Marabou Stork, Sacred Ibis, Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Lesser Flamingo, Spur-winged Goose, Egyptian Goose, Knob-billed Duck, White-faced Whistling-Duck, Hottentot Teal, Cape Teal, Nothern Shoveler, African Fish Eagle, Hooded Vulture, Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture, African White-backed Vulture, Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Brown Snake-Eagle, African Harrier-Hawk, Augur Buzzard, Steppe Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle (a nest with one ad white form), Long-crested Eagle, Verreaux’s Eagle (2), Lanner Falcon (2), Helmeted Guineafowl, African Jacana, Grey Crowned Crane, Crowned Lapwing, Three-banded Plover, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Black-tailed Godwit, Grey-headed Gull, White-winged Tern, Whiskered Tern, Square-tailed Nightjar (2), White-rumped Swift, Blue-naped Mousebird, Narina Trogon (1m), African Pygmy Kingfisher, Crowned Hornbill, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill (a nest and several ad), Southern Ground-Hornbill, Grey Woodpecker, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark (near Tarangire in the morning), Lesser Striped Swallow, Mountain Wagtail, Yellow-bellied Greenbul, White-browed Robin-Chat, Schalow’s Wheatear, Spotted Morning Thrush, Red-faced Crombec, Winding Cisticola, Flycatcher sp (photos), African Paradise-flycatcher, Isabelline Shrike, Brubru, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Violet-backed Starling (1), Hildebrandt’s Starling, Rufous Sparrow, Chestnut Sparrow, Yellow-spotted Petronia, Lesser Masked Weaver, Vitelline Masked Weaver, Red-headed Weaver, Green-Winged Pytilia, Blue-capped Cordon-bleu, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu…

Mammals: African elephant, Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Kirk’s dikdik, Impala, mongoose sp, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Olive Baboon, Gentle Monkey (blue monkey cluster), Vervet monkey, Thomson’s gazelle.

+ Agama Lizard, Monitor Lizard.


Journey, Manyara – Ngorongoro – Serengeti:

Wahlberg’s Eagle, Hildebrandt’s Francolin, Speckled Pigeon, Fischer’s Lovebird, Diederik Cukoo, Striped Kingfisher, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike…

Mammals: When we passed near the Ngorongoro (on the top), I saw two Rhinoceros very far away in the crater.

Serengeti National Park:

Common Ostrich, Egyptian Goose, Hadada Ibis, White Stork, Spur-winged Goose, White-bellied Bustard, Black-bellied Bustard, Kori Bustard, Coqui Francolin, Secretary Bird, Lapped-faced Vulture, White-headed Vulture, African White-backed Vulture, Rüppell’s Vulture, , Pallid Harrier, Montagu’s Harrier, Steppe Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Augur Buzzard, Common Buzzard, Eastern Chanting-Goshawk, Black-shouldered Kite, Bateleur, Greater Kestrel, Lesser Kestrel, Crowned Lapwing, Caspian Plover (+- 40 in flight), Black-faced Sandgrouse, Mottled Swift, African black Swift, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Capped Wheatear…

Mammals: Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Impala, mongoose sp, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Thomson’s gazelle, Topi, Spotted hyaena, Common Jackal, Black-backed Jackal, Cheetah (1f with 2 young), .


Serengeti National Park, journey to Lobo:

Common Ostrich, Cattle Egret, Black-headed Heron, White Stork (thousands in flight), Marabou Stork, Caspian Plover (good view of 5 on the ground and two group of +- 40 in flight), Black-winged Lapwing, Crowned Lapwing, Helmeted Guineafowl, Spotted Eagle-Owl 1, White-bellied Bustard, Hooded, White-headed, African White-backed and Lapped-faced Vulture, Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Secretary Bird, Tawny Eagle, Steppe Eagle, Verreaux’s Eagle (2ad and 1imm), Bateleur, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Grey-backed Fiscal, Egyptian Goose, Three-banded Plover, Cape Teal, Silverbird, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Southern Ground-hornbill, Temminck’s Courser, Lesser Masked Weaver, Brown Parrot (2), Lilac-breasted Roller, Little Bee-eater, Spot-flanked Barbet, White-naped Raven, Sunbird sp, Vitelline Masked Weaver, Superb Starling, Magpie Shrike, Rüppell’s Long-tailed Starling (1), Croaking Cisticola…
Mammals: Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Impala, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Thomson’s gazelle, Topi, Spotted hyaena, Black-backed Jackal, Cheetah (hunting), Lion (hunting)…

+ Leopard Turtle.


Lobo Areas and journey to Victoria Lake:

Black-bellied Bustard, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Lapped-faced Vulture, Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Secretary Bird, Tawny Eagle, Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Senegal Lapwing, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Yellow-billed Stork, Marabou Stork, African Fish Eagle, Hamerkop, African Hoopoe, Yellow-throated Longclaw, White-browed Robin-Chat, White-bellied Tit, Red-Headed Weaver, Chin-spot Batis, Cliff Chat, Rufous Sparrow, Sooty Chat, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Yellow-billed Oxpecker, Black-headed Weaver, Swamp Flycatcher, African Paradise-flycatcher, African Pied Wagtail…

Mammals: Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Impala, Giraffe, Hippopotamus, Thomson’s gazelle, Topi, Lion (two near the tent in the ten at night in the camp site of Lobo !), (a group of 17), Banded mongoose, Eland, Hyraxes sp, Olive Baboon…

+ Crocodile, Lizard sp.


Victoria Lake (Lamadi), observations around the lodge Speke bay:

Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Pallid Harrier (1m), Black-headed Heron, Pink-backed Pelican (1), African Fish Eagle (a nest with a flight young in a tree, above the bar of the lodge! ), Diederik Cuckoo (1), Spotted Thick-knee, Heuglin’s Courser, African Wattled Lapwing, Malachite Kingfisher (1), Rufous-napped Lark, Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Sand Martin, Angola Swallow, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Spotted Morning Thrush, Great Reed Warbler, Winding Cisticola, Swamp Flycatcher, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Red-chested Sunbird, Common Fiscal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Isabelline Shrike, Red-backed Shrike, Black-headed Gonolek, Red-billed Quelea, Green-winged Pytilia, Brimstone Canary…

+ Monitor Lizard.


Victoria Lake (Lamadi), Observations in the South and around the Lodge Speke bay:

Tawny Eagle (3), Two-banded Courser (4), Yellow-billed Stork (2), African Open-billed Stork (20), Black-chested Snake-Eagle (1), Osprey, African Fish Eagle, Coqui Francolin, Grey-breasted Spurfowl, Spotted Thick-knee (1), Common Snipe, African Mourning Dove, Diederick Cuckoo, Usambiro Barbet, Red-throated Pipit (1), Capped Wheatear, Northern Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, White-browed Scrub-Robin, Spotted Morning-Thrush, African Reed Warbler, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Swamp Flycatcher, African Paradise-flycatcher, Rufous Chatterer, Variable Sunbird, Slate-coloured Boubou, Brown-crowned Tchagra (1), Chestnut Sparrow, Slender-billed Weaver, Golden- backed Weaver, Yellow-backed Weaver, Black Bishop, Green-winged Pytilia, Purple Grenadier…


Observations around the Lodge Speke bay early morning:

Heuglin’s Courser, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Plain-backed Pipit, Blue-headed Coucal (1), Grosbeak Weaver (2), Yellow-billed Stork, Marabou Stork, African Wagtail…

Journey from Victoria Lake to Centre Serengeti and night near Ikona gate just outside the Park.

Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl (2), Emerald-spotted Dove, Black-headed Gonolek (1), Secretary Bird, European Bee-eater, Black-bellied Bustard, Lappet-faced Vulture, Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, Red-fronted Barbet, Purple Grenadier…

Mammals: Lion, Cheetah, African elephant, Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Giraffe, Common Warthog, Impala, Topi, Mongoose sp.


Observations around the camp site near Ikona gate in the morning:

Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Red-fronted Barbet, Red-rumped Swallow, Lesser Masked Weaver, Black-headed Weaver, Brubru, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, Rufous Sparrow, Yellow-spotted Petronia…

Journey from Serengeti National Park to Ngorongoro:

Common Ostrich, Lappet-faced Vulture, Martial Eagle (1), Tawny Eagle, Bateleur, Eurasian Hobby (1), Kori Bustard, Black-bellied Bustard, White-bellied Bustard, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (2), Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Southern Ground-Hornbill, Usambiro Barbet, Red-capped Lark, Slate-coloured Boubou, Cape Rook (1), Hildebrandt’s Starling, Wattled Starling, White-browed Robin-Chat, Speckle-fronted Weaver…

Observations around the Ngorongoro camp site:

Schalow’s Turaco, Dusky Turtle Dove (2), Speckled Pigeon, African Green-Pigeon, Red-bellied Firefinch, African Citril, Flycatcher sp, Cisticole sp, Warbler sp…

Mammals: African elephant, Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Lion, Cheetah, Thomson’s gazelle, Lion, Hyraxes sp, Spotted Hyaena…


Observations in the Ngorongoro conservation area:

Common Ostrich, Common Squacco Heron, Cattle Egret, Sacred Ibis, Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Greater Flamingo, Lesser Flamingo, Ruff, Long-toed Lapwing (3), Black-winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Wood Sandpiper, Red-billed Teal, Hottentot Teal, Cape Teal, Northern Shoveler, Kittlitz’s Plover, Black Kite, Martial Eagle (1 ad), Blacksmith Lapwing, Woodland Kingfisher, Secretary Bird, Long-crested Eagle (2), Eurasian Marsh Harrier, Grey Crowned Crane, Kori Bustard, Black-bellied Bustard, Red-knobbed Coot (3), Somali Short-toed Lark, Northern Anteater Chat, Red-throated Pipit (1), Rosy-breasted Longclaw, Yellow Wagtail, Sedge Warbler (1), Red-billed Oxpecker, Pectoral-patch Cisticola, Fan-tailed Widowbird, Speke’s Weaver, …
Pipit sp, Becassine sp, Flycatcher sp, …

Journey from Ngorongoro to Mto wa nbu (near Lake Manyara):

Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater (1 at the Loduare gate), sunbird sp…

Mammals: African elephant, Common Zebra, Brindled gnu, Thomson’s gazelle, Grant’s Gazelle, Lion, Spotted Hyaena, Cheetah, Bat-eared Fox (4), Black-backed Jackal, Ichneumon Mongoose (1), Black rhinoceros (6), Hippopotamus, Common warthog.


Observations early morning near Mto wa nbu, around the Kiboko Bush lodge:

Pallid Harrier, Black-winged Lapwing (3), Black-faced Sandgrouse, Tambourine Dove, Namaqua Dove, Black-bellied Bustard (1m), African Grey Hornbill, Woodland Kingfisher, Eurasian Golden Oriole, African Black-headed Oriole, Desert Cisticola (1), Grassland Pipit, Pied Wheatear, Sulphur- breasted Bush-shrike, Northern White-crowned Shrike, White-browed Coucal, Variable Sunbird, Ashy Flycatcher…

Mammals: Bat sp, Hare sp.

Journey from Manyara to Arusha.


Flight from Arusha to Zanzibar Island, we visited Zanzibar Stone Town afternoon:

Sooty Gull, House Crow…

Mammal: Zanzibar Galago, one in the garden of the lodge in the night.


Observations along the beach early morning, near the lodge:

Crab-plover (3), Lesser Crested Tern (20), Greater Crested Tern (1ad 1juv), Saunder’s Tern (15), Grey Plover, Sooty Gull…

We visited Josani Forest late morning:

Striped Kingfisher (1), Yellow-rumped Thinkerbird (1m), Black-bellied Starling (2), Olive Sunbird (1), Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Black-backed Puffback, Dark-backed Weaver, Green-backed Twinspot (1m), Little Greenbul, Pale Batis…

Mammals: Zanzibar Red Colobus, Gentle Monkey (White-throated monkey cluster).

After that we took a taxi to our lodge in the north of the Island.

13 to 15/12/04:

We stayed in the north of the island in the lodge near Kendua. Observations during these days:

Peregrine Falcon (1), Sooty Gull, Dimorphic Egret, Greater Crested Tern, Lesser Crested Tern, Stripped Kingfisher, Purple-banded Sunbird, Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Lesser Striped Swallow, Zanzibar Somber Greenbul, Common Bulbul, House Crow, Orange-winged Pytilia, …


We took a flight from Zanzibar to Arusha and we stayed an other night at the lodge 2000.


Observations around the lodge 2000 early morning. There are a stone pit quarries in the front of the exit of the lodge, it is a good place for birds. Careful with your binocular in the evening, it’s a dangerous place!

Augur Buzzard, Horus Swift, Little Swift, White-rumped Swift, Speckled Mousebird, Brown-breasted Barbet, Pied Crow, Black Saw-wing, Rock Martin, Variable Sunbird, Violet-backed Starling, Red-faced Cisticola, …

We visited Arusha in the morning. At 2 pm we took a bus to Nairobi. We arrived at the airport at 19h30. We took of at 22:30 with a stop in Ouganda.

18/12 : We arrived in Brussels airport at 7 am.