Tanzania, 7th October - 30th November 2001

This trip was a part of my teacher-training program and not a pure birding trip. My time in Tanzania began with three weeks of work in a secondary school in Marangu. After this, I went on a four-day safari visiting Tarangire, Ngorongoro Crater and Lake Manyara. After a few more days back in Marangu I went out travelling again, mostly in the Zanzibar Islands. One condition for my backpacking was to minimise the baggage, so I left my scope in Sweden. Therefore, all my birding was done with just binocular (8x30) and hence I missed many birds, especially birds of prey, larks and pipits. If you join an organised safari to Tanzania, I can really recommend a scope.

Tanzania is a beautiful and friendly country that I without doubt can recommend a visit to.

The currency is Tanzanian shilling. When I was there, the rate was 1 US$ = 900 Tz. shilling or 1000 Tz. shilling = 11 Swedish crowns. I brought travellers checks and US dollars. During my eight weeks in Tanzania I spent 1200 US$ in pocket money. The flight ticket from Sweden was 700 $.

Marangu

Marangu is a small village at 1600 meter on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. It is situated 35 km from Moshi and just 4 km from the gate of Kilimanjaro National Park. The nature in Marangu is wonderful, and worth mentioning are the beautiful waterfalls. Every morning between 6.15 and 7.30, I went birding in the surroundings, and during my three weeks I managed to see about 100 different species of birds. The melt water from Kilimanjaro gives rise to many brooks and waterholes, and as you find them almost everywhere, there are no real hotspots. On the other hand, this gives you the possibility to enjoy a bath in the cold and clean water.

There are just two hotels in Marangu, and they are both luxury and very expensive. To avoid this problem, one could stay in Moshi and make daytrips to Marangu. It takes 45 minutes with a dala-dala (Tanzanian taxi) and costs 500 shilling.

Kilimanjaro National Park

To see real rainforests and high altitude birds you must enter the national park, which costs 25 US$ a day. Many tour companies offer excursions to the peak (5895m). The tour will take you 5 or 6 days and costs around 500 US$ or 600 US$, all are inclusive (guide, porter, cook, food, water and night in huts). I planned to beat the peak and did some dealing at the gate, however bad weather and the lack of money stopped my climbing dreams. The prizes I got for a five days tour were:

5 x 25 US$ entry fees, 1 x 20 US$ rescue fee, 4 x 50 US$ nights in huts, 5 x 3 US$ guide and porter fees or 348 US$ in total, so if you have time, dealing is worth while. For your own safety, make sure that you get a good guide. If you want to see high altitude birds and are out of money, you could sneak into the park through the village and then walk in to the rainforest. This is of course an illegal move. From my experience, the birds do became nicer and nicer with altitude.

Moshi

Moshi has no good birding places, but you can find nice, cheap hotels and restaurants. I went birding in YMCA's garden and in the Umoja Lutheran Hostel`s garden. In the Umoja's garden I found the rare Magpie-mannikin. The rural area outside Moshi is good for birding. Take a dala-dala and ask them to stop wherever it looks nice. I spotted my one and only Blue-naped Mousebird just outside Moshi.

Dar Es Salaam

If you like birds this enormous town will make you disappointed, but if you like shopping and noise it is heaven. Dar Es Salaam is hotter than hell and full of energetic people. I managed to stay here for two nights only.

Unguja (Zanzibar Island)

On Unguja I visited Stonetown, Paje and Nungwi. Stonetown is a nice town with a lot of good food and clinging salesmen. You should definitely visit the night market and eat barbeque food. In Stonetown I did no birding at all. Paje, on the other hand, was an excellent place for soft birding. During the midday heat, when the tide was high, there were hundreds of terns and waders roosting at the beach. It was perfect to sit there with a Hawaii-shirt and a cold drink, just watching all the lovely birds.

One day in Paje (13/11-01), I saw this at the beach:

Saunder`s Tern 100, Grey Plover 40, Ringed Plover 200, Greater Sandplover 150, Mongolian Sandplover 15, Sanderling 100, Curlew Sandpiper 500, Terek Sandpiper 20, Common Sandpiper 5, Common Greenshank 20, Ruddy Turnstone 50, Whimbrel 30, Crab-plover 80.

I spent hours just sitting there. From Paje we also went on a nice dolphin tour to the south coast. On the way back from Paje to Stonetown we stopped at Jozani Forest. The walk in the forest was an unforgettable experience. You should definitely go there, not only to see the forest but also the endemic Zanzibar Red Colabus Monkey.

I spent my last week in Nungwi, which is well known for its parties and nightlife.

The beach and the lighthouse were good places to watch birds, and for example, I saw a Masked Booby during my breakfast there. I wasted one evening watching TV with some Englishmen. Arsenal was struggling against Manchester United and of course, a Swedish player turned out to be the hero of the game. Fredrik Ljungberg was excellent and he scored the important 1-1 goal for Arsenal, who later won the game 3-1.

Pemba Island

We arrived to Pemba early in the morning and decided to stay in Mkoani for three nights and make daytrips from there. It was perfect to walk around in Mkoani for birding. Especially the fields and tide shores were good.

We spent one day in Ngezi Forest. It offered nothing special, if you are not interested in herbs and spices. To hear the Pemba Scops Owl you should go there by nighttime, I did not. The Vumawimbi beach close to the forest was nice.

If you travel to Pemba you should definitely visit Misali Island. This island is beautiful and very quiet. The snorkelling in the corals outside the island is world-famous. I snorkelled for a whole day, and it was amazing.

We were at Pemba during Ramadan, so no restaurants were open during daytime. Things are a little bit more complicated on Pemba compared to Unguja, but the nature is more beautiful and you have the chance of spotting the four endemic species of birds. I managed to see all except for the owl.

The Safari

I went on the safari with a group of 24 swedish teachers. We started and finished the trip in Moshi. The schedule was:

Day 1: Transport to Tarangire National Park where we spent the afternoon. We spent the night in tents at a campsite outside Tarangire.

Day 2: Morning in Tarangire N.P. Then transports to Mto Wa Mbu were we stayed at Twinga Campsite and Lodge. Very nice rooms. Afternoon I was birding in the Mto Wa Mbu surroundings.

Day 3: Whole day in the Ngorongoro Crater National Park. Night at Twinga.

Day 4: Early morning birding in Mtu Wa Mbu, there were some good fields close to Twinga. Then we spent the morning in Lake Manyara National Park. On the way back to Moshi we made a stop at a Masai village.

This is the short safari. You could add two more days and continue to Serengeti or use one day in Arusha National Park instead of two days in Tarangire. In favour of your bird list, it is of course better to spend a few more days and visit as many Parks as possible. I regret not visiting Serengeti, but now at least I have something to look forward to when coming back.

The prize for the Safari was 60 US$ per day and person, all-inclusive. When you agree on the prize, make sure that everything you need really is included (a good 4-WD vehicle, breakfast-lunch-dinner, mineral water, tent, sleeping bags, entrance to national parks every day and so on.) It is normal to pay a tip to the crew. We paid 10 000 Shilling each for the whole trip. The normal prize for an all-inclusive safari is 75 US$ per day. The Ngorongoro Crater was the highlight of the safari. Do not miss it!

Accommodation

The prizes are what we paid for one night after some dealing.

Moshi: YMCA: 13 US$ for a double including breakfast and a swim in the 25 meter pool. (If you do not stay at the hostel, it costs 2000 Sh). The rooms were nice with shared facilities. Good place to stay at outside Centrum and with a beautiful view of Kilimanjaro.

Umoja Lutheran Hostel: 10 000 Shilling for a double including breakfast. Shared facilities. Good place much because of the Magpie-mannikin.

Dar Es Salaam: YWCA: 8000 Shilling for a double including a very bad breakfast. Shared facilities. A friend of mine was robbed here. She lost almost everything (pass, money, travelling checks, flight ticket, VISA card). It took her two days to fix everything. So Watch Up!! Note that YWCA is just for women and couples (friends!).

Luther House Hostel: 13000 Shilling for a double room where we stayed three persons. No breakfast but bathroom in the room. Close to the harbour where the ferries to Zanzibar depart.

Pemba, Mkoani: Sunset Lodge (Mkoani Guest House): 15 US$ for a triple and a bad breakfast. But a very good price considering prizes on Pemba. Nice room and shared facilities.

Unguja, Stonetown: Jambo Hotel: 24 US$ for a triple with a good breakfast. Shared facilities and also the only Hotel with free Internet.

Narrow Street Hotel: 27 US$ for a triple with bathroom and good breakfast.

Unguja, Paje: Paje By Night: 50 US$ for five persons in a nice bungalow with bathroom. Extremely good breakfast with booth fresh bread and juice. You can also get the egg exactly as you wish. It´s only 50 metres to the lovely beach. I can really recommend this place!

Unguja, Nungwi: Jambo Brothers: 24 US$ for three persons in a double with bathroom. Breakfast included and just 30 metres to the beach. A quiet place in Nungwi compared to others.

How we got around

It is easy to travel in Tanzania. The infrastructure is good and the prizes are low. Here are some prize examples during our journey.

Moshi to Marangu: 35 km which takes 45 minutes with a dala-dala and costs 500 Sh.

Moshi to Dar Es Salaam: 567 km which takes 7 hours and costs 16 000 Sh with the luxury Scandinavian Bus.

Dar Es Salaam to Stonetown: 90 minutes with the catamaran Sea Star Services LTD. It costs 35 $.

Stonetown to Paje: a tour operator takes around 25 000 Sh for the trip, so find many pals.

Stonetown to Mkoani, Pemba: The slow ferry, Serengeti, took 8 hours and cost 20 $ for 1st class.

Mkoani to Konde: A local bus took 2 hours and cost 1000 Sh.

Konde to Ngezi Forest ® Ras Kingomasha ® Vumawimbi beach ® Konde: Hired taxi (5 hours) cost 8 000 Sh.

Konde to Chake Chake ® Mkoani: 2 hours with a Dala-dala and costs 1 100 Sh.

Stonetown to Nungwi: 1.5 hours with a tour operator costs 3 000 Sh.

Dar Es Salaam to Air port: We paid 12 000 Sh for two persons witch probably is far too much.

Bird/Mammal guides used on trip

Birds of Kenya & Northern Tanzania. Dale A. Zimmerman, Donald A. Turner, David J. Pearson
African Mammals. Jonathan Kingdon

List of Birds

The following birds were seen during the trip, Zanzibar = Unguja + Pemba.

1 Masked Booby Sula dactylatra melanops 1 ad. Zanzibar channel 10/11 and 29/11, 1 ad Kazim Kazi 13/11, 1 ad Nungwi 22/11

2 Brown Noddy Anous stolidus pileatus Fairly common at Pemba and Zanzibar Channel

3 Sooty Tern Sterna fuscata nubilosa 3 in Zanzibar Channel 10/11 and 1 at 29/11, 2 in Nungwi 25/11

4 Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica Small numbers around Zanzibar, 1 in Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

5 Roseate Tern Sterna dougallii bangsi Small numbers around Zanzibar

6 Common Tern Sterna hirundo Abundant around Zanzibar

7 Saunders Tern Sterna (albifrons) saundersi Fairly common at Unguja, 100+ at Paje beach 13/11

8 Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis 1 at Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

9 Lesser Crested Tern Sterna bengalensis Common at Zanzibar

10 Greater Creasted Tern Sterna bergii Common in small numbers around Zanzibar

11 Sooty Gull Larus hemprichii Almost daily seen around Zanzibar

12 Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis 10 in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

13 Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis 1 ad. at Tarangire N.P 29/10

14 African Open-billed Stork Anastomus lamelligerus 1 at YMCA´s garden in Moshi 7/11

15 Marabou Stork Leptoptilus crumeniferus Widespread and common in the mainland

16 Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum gibbericeps 4 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10 and 15 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

17 Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus 15 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

18 Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash brevirostris 2 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10, 3 in Mkoani, Pemba 17/11

19 African Spoonbill Platalea alba 10 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10, 15 at Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

20 Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus Widespread and common in small numbers

21 Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus (ruber) roseus Small numbers in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

22 Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor c.4 000+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

23 Purple Heron Ardea purpurea 1 at Mto Wa Mbu 31/10

24 Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Fairly common

25 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Fairly common

26 Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Almost daily seen in Marangu 9/10-27/10

27 Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides 2 in Mto Wa Mbu 31/10

28 Striated Heron Butorides striatus atricapillus 1 at Kazim Kazi, Unguja 13/11 and small numbers on Pemba 17/11-19/11

29 Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax 1 juv in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/11

30 Great Egret Casmerodius albus melanorhynchos 1 on Vumawimbi beach, Pemba 18/11

31 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Daily seen

32 Little Egret Egretta garzetta Common on Zanzibar

33 Dimorphic Egret Egretta (garzetta) dimorpha Common on Zanzibar

34 Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Small numbers on Pemba 17/11-19/11

35 Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

36 Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens 1 flying over Moshi 28/10

37 Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus 2 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10, small numbers in Dar Es Salaam and Zanzibar

38 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 10 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

39 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis capensis 1 in Ngorongoro Crater 30/10, 5 in Ngezi Forest, Pemba 18/11

40 Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus Common in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

41 Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis 25 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10 and fairly common in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

42 Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

43 Red-billed Teal Anas erythrorhyncha Common in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

44 Cape Teal Anas capensis 20+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

45 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata 1 female in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

46 Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola foelleborni 1 at Mto Wa Mbu 29/10, 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

47 Blacksmith Plover Vanellus armatus Common in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

48 Crowned Plover Vanellus coronatus 2 in Tarangire N.P 29/10, common in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

49 Long-toed Plover Vanellus crassirostris 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

50 Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola Common in small numbers at Zanzibar, 40+ at Paje beach 13/11

51 Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus venustus 1 ad at Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

52 Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula tundrae Small numbers in the Crater 30/10, fairly commonon Zanzibar, 200+ at Paje beach 13/11

53 Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris 15 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10

54 Greater Sandplover Charadrius leschenaultii crassirostris Common on Zanzibar, 150+ at Paje beach 13/11

55 Mongolian Sandplover Charadrius mongolus pamiresis Common in small numbers on Zanzibar, 10+ at Paje beach 13/11

56 Little Stint Calidris minuta Common in Tarangire N.P, in the Ngorongoro Crater and at Lake Manyara N.P

57 Sanderling Calidris alba Common on Zanzibar, 100+ at Paje beach 13/11

58 Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea 5+ at Lake Manyara N.P 31/10, fairly common on Zanzibar, 400+ at Paje beach 13/11

59 Ruff Philomachus pugnax Common in Tarangire N.P, in the Ngorongoro Crater and at Lake Manyara N.P

60 Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus Small numbers on Zanzibar, 20+ at Paje beach 13/11

61 Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Common in the inland and fairly common on Zanzibar5+ at Paje beach 13/11

62 Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Small numbers in the inland, common on Zanzibar,20+ at Paje beach 13/11

63 Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 5 in Tarangire N.P 28/10 and small numbers in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

64 Wood Sanpiper Tringa grareola Common in small numbers in the mainland and on Zanzibar

65 Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus Common in small numbers in the mainland and on Zanzibar

66 Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Common on Zanzibar, 50+ at Paje beach 13/11

67 Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Small numbers on Zanzibar, 30+ at Paje beach 13/11

68 Crab-plover Dromas ardeola Small numbers on, 80+ at Paje beach 13/11

69 Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Small numbers in Tarangire N.P 29/10, in the Crater 30/10 and at Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

70 Pied Avocet Recurviostra avosetta 10+ in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

71 African Jacana Actophilornis africanus 2 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

72 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus meridionalis 1 at Ngezi Forest, Pemba 18/11

73 Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena 20+ in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10

74 Red-necked Spurfowl Francolinus afer Common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10

75 Yellow-necked Spurfowl Francolinus leucoscepus Common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10

76 Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Fairly common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and atLake Manyara N.P 31/10

77 White-bellied Bustard Eupodotis senegalensis canicollis 1 subad in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

78 Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri 7 in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

79 Secretary Bird Sagittarius serpentarius 1 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

80 Common Ostrich Struthio camelus massaicus 10+ at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and 10+ in theNgorongoro Crater 30/10

81 Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis 1 ad at Mkoani, Pemba 17/11

82 Rüppel´s Griffon Vulture Gyps rueppellii Common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

83 African White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

84 Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus 10+ at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and small numbers in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

85 Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Common in small numbers at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

86 Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis orientalis 1 juv at Marangu 20/10, small numbers in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10

87 Wahlberg´s Eagle Aquila wahlbergi 1 at Tarangire N.P 28/10

88 Common (Steppe) Buzzard Buteo buteo vulpinus 1 at Marangu 5/11

89 Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus Small numbers at Marangu 8/10-27/10(,) alsouncommon in the Crater area 29/10-31/10

90 Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Daily seen in Marangu 8/10-27/10

91 Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus 1 juv at Marangu 23/10, 1 juv atTarangire N.P 2810

92 African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer 1 ad in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

93 Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus Common at Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

94 Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax poliopterus 1 ad at Moshi 7/11 (known to species only because of distribution)

95 African Hawk-eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster 1 ad at Marangu 21/10

96 Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar aequatorius 1 ad at Marangu 17/10

97 Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus 2 ad in Tarangire N.P 17/10, 1 at Mto Wa Mbu 28/10

98 Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus 1 ad at Moshi 7/11

99 Black Kite Milvus migrans Common in the mainland

100 Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus 2 ad males in Tarangire N.P 29/10

101 Montagu´s Harrier Circus pygargus 1 female at the Campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/10

102 Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis 1 north of Arusha 28/10, 1 in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

103 African Hobby Falco cuvieri 1 seen at Marangu 9/10-25/10

104 Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiacus 1 at Tarangire N.P 28/10

105 Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 1 male at the campsite outside Tarangire 29/10

106 Fischer´s Lovebird Agapornis fischeri 5+ in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10. Hybrid lovebirds were fairly common at this place

107 Yellow-collared Lovebird Agapornis personatus Fairly common in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10 and atMto Wa Mbu 29/10

108 Brown-headed Parrot Poicephalus cryptoxanthus 2 at Mkoani, Pemba 17/11

109 Yellow-throated Sandgrouse Pterocles gutturalis saturatior 3 in Tarangire N.P 28/10

110 Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Small numbers in Moshi 27/10-28/10

111 Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola somalica Common

112 African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens perspicillata Common in the mainland

113 Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Fairly common

114 African Green Pigeon Treron calva gibberifrons Common in Marangu 8/10-27/10

115 Pemba Green Pigeon Trereon pembaensis Common at Pemba Island 17/11-19/11

116 Feral Pigeon Columba livia Common around towns and on Zanzibar

117 Olive Pigeon Columba arquatrix 2 in Marangu 23/10, 1 at Marangu 24/10, seen migrating in the late afternoon

118 Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Fairly common in Marangu 8/10-27/10 and inMoshi

119 Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Small numbers in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

120 Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos Uncommon in Marangu 8/10-27/10

121 Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria Uncommon in Marangu 8/10-27/10

122 White-bellied Go-away-bird Criniferoides leucogaster 5 in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

123 Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides personata leopoldi 2 in Tarangire N.P 28/10

124 Hartlaub´s Turaco Turaco hartlaubi 5 in Marangu 13/10, 2 in Marangu 26/10

125 Schalow´s Turaco Turaco schalowi 1 in the highland around the Ngorongoro Crater area 30/10

126 Klaas´s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas 1 ad male in Marangu 13/10, 1 female in Marangu 26/10

127 Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius 1 ad in Marangu 4/11

128 Yellowbill Ceuthmochares aereus 1 at Nugwi, Unguja 23/11

129 White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Seen in Tarangire, Moshi and Nungwi

130 (Eurasian) Nightjar sp. Caprimulgus sp. 2 nightjars at dusk in Marangu 18/10 (Probably Eurasian Nightjar)

131 Little Swift Apus affinis Fairly common

132 White-rumped Swift Apus caffer 5 in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

133 Scarce Swift Schoutedenapus myoptilus 3 in Marangu 23/10

134 African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus laemostigma Common in the lowland

135 Alpine Swift Apus melba africanus Daily seen in Marangu 8/10-27/10

136 Mottled Swift Apus aequatorialis 1 in Marangu 20/10

137 Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus pulcher 1 outside Moshi 27/10

138 Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus kikuyuensis Fairly common in the mainland

139 African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta natalensis 1 ad at Ngezi Forest, Pemba 18/11

140 Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata galerita 1 at Mto Wa Mbu 31/10

141 Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti 1 in Tarangire N.P 28/10

142 Grey-headed Kingfisher Halcyon leucocephala 1 ad at Marangu 9/10, 1 juv at Mto Wa Mbu 29/10

143 Mangrove Kingfisher Halcyon senegaloides Seen at many places on Pemba 17/11-19/11

144 Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris orientalis 1 in Marangu 10/10, 2 in Marangu 26/10

145 Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis 1 in Tarangire N.P 29/10, common on Pemba Island 17/11-19/11

146 Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus cyanostictus Common in Tarangire N.P28/10-29/10

147 Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater Merops oreobates 10 at the gate of the Ngorongoro Crater N.P 30/11,2 at Kilimanjaro N.P gate (Marangu) 5/11

148 Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus Common on Zanzibar 16/11-27/11

149 Eurasian Bee-eater Merops apiaster 40+ in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10

150 Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus suahelicus Seen in Marangu, Ngorongoro, Tarangire and onZanzibar, but in small numbers

151 Eurasian Roller Coracias garrulus 1 in Lake Manyara N.P 31/10

152 Liliac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata Fairly common

153 Hoopoe Upupa epops 1 in Tarangire N.P 28/10

154 Green Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus 1 at Kazim Kazi, Unguja 13/11

155 Von Der Decken´s Hornbill Tockus deckeni Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

156 Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus 10+ in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

157 African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus 5+ in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

158 Crowned Hornbill Tockus alboterminatus geloensis Common in Marangu 8/10-27/10

159 Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis Uncommon in Marangu 9/10-27/10,numerous in Lake Manyara NP 31/10

160 White-eared Barbet Statolaema leucotis kilimensis 3 in Marangu 13/10, 1 at Marangu 18/10,5 in Marangu 26/10

161 Brown-breasted Barbet Lybius melanopterus Uncommon in Marangu 11/10-22/10

162 Red-and-yellow Barbet Trachyphonus erythrocephalus 5 feeding on termite mounds in Tarangire N.P 29/10

163 Moustached Green Tinkerbird Pogoniulus leucomystax Seen at 10 times in Marangu 13/10-26/10

164 Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens 1 in Marangu 12/10, 1 in Marangu 26/10

165 Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae rhodeogaster 2 in Tarangire N.P 28/10

166 Nubian Woodpecker Campethera n. nubica 1 in Marangu 14/10, 1 in Marangu 19/10

167 Eastern Honeybird Prodotiscus zambesiae ellenbecki 1 in Marangu 27/10

168 Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor teitensis 1 in Lake Manyara N.P. 31/10

169 Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava ssp. Common in Tarangire, Ngorongoro, Lake Manyaraand Mto Wa Mbu

170 Grey Wagtail Motacilla c. cinerea 1 in Marangu 3/11, 1 in Marangu 5/11

171 Mountain Wagtail Motacilla clara torrentium Common in Marangu 8/10-26/10

172 African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp vidua Common in Marangu 8/10-26/10

173 Grassland Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus lacuum 2 at Mkoani, Pemba 17/11

174 Striped Pipit Anthus lineiventris 1 in Marangu 13/10, 5 in Marangu 14/10

175 Fischer´s Sparrow-lark Eremopterix leucopareia 1 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/10

176 Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea 5 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

177 Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula fusciventris Daily seen in Marangu 9/10-27/10

178 Banded Martin Riparia cincta suahelica 1 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/10

179 African Sand Martin Riparia paludicola ducis 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

180 Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica emini Daily seen in small numbers in Marangu 9/10-27/10

181 Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis saturatior 1 in Tarangire N.P 29/19, 2 S.W. of Mto Wa Mbu 31/10

182 Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo abyssinica unitatis Small numbers in the mainland, common on Zanzibar

183 Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Common in Tarangire NP 28/10-29/10, common onPemba 17/11-19/11

184 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Common, 200+ in Marangu 24/10

185 Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne holomelas massaicus Small numbers in the forests around Marangu 13/10-26/10

186 Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus - common

187 Eastern Nicator Nicator gularis 1 at Jozani Forest, Unguja 16/11

188 Mountain Greenbul Anadropadus nigriceps 2 in Marangu 22/10

189 Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus Common on Zanzibar 15/11-27/11

190 Striped-cheeked Greenbul Andropadus milanjensis striifacies 2 in Marangu 14/10

191 Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris centralis 1 in the Ngorongoro Crater gate 30/10

192 Little Greenbul Andropadus virens 1 in Marangu 22/10

193 Fischer´s Greenbul Phyllastrephus fischeri 3 at Nungwi, Unguja 25/11

194 Hildebrandt´s Starling Lamprotornis hidebrandti 10+ in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

195 Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

196 Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Common in small numbers in Marangu 9/10-26/10

197 Black-bellied Starling Lamprotornis corruscus mandanus Common on Zanzibar 11/11-25/11

198 Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10 and inthe Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

199 Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus 2 in Tarangire N.P 29/10

200 Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Fairly common in Marangu 8/10-27/10

201 Waller´s Starling Onychognathus walleri 5 at Kilimanjaro N.P gate 29/10, 2 in Marangu 2/11

202 Kenrick´s Starling Poeoptera kenricki bensoni Seen at many times in Marangu 13/10-20/10

203 Ashy Starling Cosmopsarus unicolor Common in Tarangire NP 28/10-29/10

204 Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus 1 at Nugwi, Unguja 22/11

205 Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus rolleti 1 in Tarangire N.P 28/10, 2 in the NgorongoroCrater 30/10

206 House Crow Corvus splendens Fairly common in Dar Es Salaam and in Unguja

207 Pied Crow Corvus albus Common

208 White-naped Raven Corvus albicollis 2 at high altitude in Marangu 12/10

209 Black Cuckoo-shrike Campephaga flava Females seen at 5 times in Marangu 15/10-26/10,1 male at Marangu 2/11, 1 male+ 1 female in Moshi 7/11

210 Common Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

211 Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis emini Seen at small numbers in Marangu 16/10-26/10

212 Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla hamatus 1 male at Marangu 17/10, 1 male at Marangu 22/10,5 in Marangu 26/10

213 Slate-coloured Boubou Laniarius funebris 4 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/10

214 Tropical Boubou Laniarius aethiopicus ambiguus in Marangu 9/10-26/10, 1 sublacteus,black morph at Nungwi, Unguja 25/11

215 Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus aequatorialis 20+ in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

216 Long-tailed Fiscal Lanius cabanisi Common in Tarangire N.P 28-29/10

217 Common Fiscal Lanius collaris humeralis Daily seen in Marangu 9/10-26/10

218 Taita Fiscal Lanius dorsalis 1 seen from the buss close to Mkomazi 8/11

219 Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus rueppelli Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

220 Black-throated Wattle-eye Platysteria peltata 1 male at Marangu 15/10

221 Chin-spot Batis Batis molitor 2 at Kilimanjaro NP gate 5/11

222 Pale Batis Batis soror 1 female at Nungwi, Unguja 25/11

223 Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus murinus Seen in small numbers at many places inthe mainland

224 African Grey Flycatcher Bradornis microrhynchus 5 at a stop between Arusha and Tarangire 28/10

225 African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta interposita 1 in Marangu 15/10, 1 in Marangu 17/10

226 White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri nyikensis Daily seen in Marangu 9/10-26/10

227 Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata neumanni Common in Moshi 5/11-7/11 and also commonon Zanzibar 11/11-26/11

228 African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Common in small numbers in Marangu 11/10-26/10 both plumbeiceps and ferreti "rufous morph"

229 Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii emini 2 at YMCA´s garden, Moshi 6/11

230 Northern Anteater Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops cryptoleuca 15 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

231 Olive Thrush Turdus olivaceus deckeni Common in Marangu 13/10-26/10

232 White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys 2 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/11

233 Cape Robin-chat Cossypha caffra iolaema Seen at 10 times in Marangu 9/10-26/10

234 Spotted Morning Thrush Cichladusa guttata 2 outside Moshi 27/10

235 Rüppell's Robin-chat Cossypha semirufa intercedens 1 in Marangu 22/10 and 1 in Marangu 24/10

236 Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata axillaris Common on the slopes of Kilimanjaro above 1800 m 18/10-25/10

237 Brown Woodland Warbler Phylloscopus umbrovirens mackenzianus 1 in Marangu 15/10

238 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus 1 in Marangu 26/10

239 Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida elaeica 2 on Misali Island, Pemba 19/11

240 Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans pictipennis Common in small numbers in Marangu 16/10-26/10

241 Winding Cisticola Cisticola galactotes 5 outside Moshi 27/10

242 Siffling Cisticola Cisticola brachypterus 1 at Paje, Unguja 15/11

243 Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis uropygialis Common in Nungwi, Unguja 22/11-26/11

244 Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida golzi 1 male in Marangu 26/10

245 Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella 3 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/10

246 Grey Wren-warbler Calamonastes simplex 1 in Marangu 14/10

247 Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava melanorhyncha 1 in Marangu 21/10

248 Dark-capped Yellow Warbler Chloropeta natalensis massaica 1 in Marangu 18/10

249 Montane White-eye Zosterops poliogaster Common on higher (1700+m) slopes of Kilimanjaro 18/10-25/10

250 Abyssininan White-eye Zosterops abyssinicus flavilateralis Daily seen in Marangu 11/10-25/10

251 Pemba White-eye Zosterops vaughani 20+ in Mkoani, Pemba 17/11

252 Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura erlangeri Seen at 5 times in Marangu 14/10-26/10

253 Bronze Sunbird Nectarinia kilimensis Common in Marangu 9/10-26/10

254 Beautiful Sunbird Nectarinia pulchella 5 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10

255 Collared Sunbird Anthreptes collaris garguensis Common in Marangu 9/10-25/10

256 Variable Sunbird Nectarinia venusta Common in Marangu 8/10-26/10

257 Marico Sunbird Nectarinia mariquensis suahelica 5 in Mto Wa Mbu 29/10

258 Purple-banded Sunbird Nectarinia bifasciata 5+ in Nungwi, Unguja 22/11

259 Amethyst Sunbird Nectarinia amethystina kalckreuthi 1 in Marangu 12/10, 18/10 and 26/10

260 Scarlet-chested Sunbird Nectarinia senegalensis lamperti Common on Zanzibar and also seen in Moshi 27/10

261 Olive Sunbird Nectarinia olivacea changamwensis Common in Marangu 15/10-26/10

262 Eastern Double-collared Sunbird Nectarinia mediocris 5 at the Kilimanjaro gate (2000m) 5/11

263 Pemba Sunbird Nectarinia pembae Common on Pemba 17/11-19/11

264 Chestnut Sparrow Passer eminibey Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

265 House Sparrow Passer domesticus indicus Common

266 Rufous Sparrow Passer rufocinctus 5 outside Moshi 27/10

267 Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus Common

268 Grey-capped Social Weaver Pseudonigrita arnaudi 2 at the campsite outside Tarangire N.P 29/11

269 Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps leuconotus 2 in Marangu 13/10, 5 in Marangu 26/10

270 White-headed Buffalo-weaver Dinemellia dinemellia bohemi Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10 and in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

271 Red-billed Buffalo-weaver Bubalornis niger intermedius Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

272 Rufous-tailed Weaver Histurgops ruficaudus 1 in Tarangire N.P 28/10, 10 in the NgorongoroCrater 30/10

273 Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura 1 male in breeding plumage and 15 females atMarangu 12/10 (uncommon in Marangu 12/10-26/10)

274 Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea aethiopica 100+ at a stop between Arusha and Tarangire 28/10

275 Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris phoeniceus 30 in the Ngorongoro Crater 30/10

276 African Golden Weaver Ploceus subaureus aureoflavus Common on Zanzibar 13/11-25/11

277 Dark-backed Weaver Ploceus bicolor 15 in Jozani Forest, Unguja 16/11

278 Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht Daily seen in Marangu 8/10-26/10

279 Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus A big colony with 50 nests in Marangu, daily seen in Marangu 8/10-26/10

280 Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus velatus uluensis 10+ at the campsite outside Moshi 29/10

281 Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis suahelicus Uncommon in Marangu 12/10-25/10

282 Chestnut Weaver Ploceus rubiginosus 3 in Marangu 3/11

283 Zebra Waxbill Amandava subflava 5 in Mto Wa Mbu 31/10

284 Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild 20 in Mto Wa Mbu 31/10, 5 in Nungwi, Unguja 26/11

285 Crimson-rumped Waxbill Estrilda rhodopyga centralis Common in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

286 Yellow-bellied Waxbill Estrilda quartinia kilimensis 2 above 1800 m in Marangu 5/11

287 Grey-headed Silverbill Lonchura griseicapilla 2 at Umoja Lutheran Hostel, Moshi 8/10

288 Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus Seen in Moshi, Tarangire and in the Ngorongorocrater

289 Blue-capped Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus cyanocephalus 10+ in Tarangire N.P28/10-29/10

290 Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba soudanensis 20+ in Tarangire N.P 28/10-29/10

291 Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala ruberrima Common

292 Black-and-white Mannikin Lonchura bicolor Common in Marangu 10/10-26/10

293 Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata scutata Common in Marangu 8/10-26/10

294 Magpie-Mannikin Lonchura fringilloides 1 seen at Umoja Lutheran Hostel garden inMoshi 8/10 and 28/10

295 Java Sparrow Padda oryzivora 15 in Mkoani, Pemba 18/11

296 African Citril Serinus citrinelloides Common in Marangu 11/10-26/10

297 Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus 1 at Marangu 10/10, 5 at Marangu 26/10

298 Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus canicollis flavivertex 1 at Kilimanjaro N.P gate (2000m) 5/11

299 Yellow-rumped Seedeater Serinus reichenowi 2 outside Moshi 27/10

300 Streaky Seedeater Serinus striolatus Seen at 10 times in Marangu 16/10-26/10

301 Thick-billed Seedeater Serinus burtoni 2 at Ngorongoro Crater N.P gate 30/10

302 Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris kalaharica 2 between Marangu and Kilimanjaro gate 4/11

List of Mammals during the Safari

Olive Baboon
Vervet Monkey
Gentle Monkey (Blue Monkey) - Lake Manyara
Common Jackal - 1 in the Ngorongoro Crater
Spotted Hyaena - 2 in the Ngorongoro Crater
Leopard - 1 in Tarangire
Lion - 6 in the Crater and 1 at Lake Manyara
Cheetah - 1 in the Crater
African Elephant
Common Zebra
Browse (Black) Rhinoceros - 3 in the Crater
Hippopotamus - in the Crater
Common Warthog
Giraffe
African Buffalo
Kirk's Dikdik
Thomson's Gazelle
Grant's Gazelle
Impala
Wildebeest
Rode Hyrax
Banded Mongoose

Also, Zanzibar Red Colabus in Jozani Forest, Unguja and in Marangu one Red-legged Sun Squirrel. As you can see my priority during the trip was not the mammals.

Don't hesitate to contact:

Henrik Gustafsson 0954
E-Mail: mongolpip@hotmail.com