Introduction
The main aim of this trip was to see a tiger, which luckily we did. Also to look for some of the harder to see species of birds in Rajasthan. We travelled mainly by train for the first half of the trip then succumbed to the ease and comfort of a car and driver as it was only a 2 week trip. We visited Keechan, Jaisalmer, The Desert National Park, Ranthambhor, Baratphur and Bund Baretha for birding and did a bit of sightseeing along the way.
Sites Visited
Keechan
This site is fairly easy to get to by rickshaw from Phalodi. The site of several thousand cranes is very impressive and you can easily spend a couple of hours admiring and photographing them. There is little else to see or do in the area though, so it’s probably best to visit by your own vehicle or take a couple of hours out of the trip between Jodphur and Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer
I spent all my birding time here around the tank or in the scrubby semi-desert to the south of the tank. This was a very productive area and I saw different birds on each visit.
Desert National Park
To get a permit is a bureaucratic nightmare. I enlisted the help of a recommended travel agent but even with him I had to visit lots of different office some several times! The cost of the permit was pretty steep as well, I got it for 2 days just in case but ended up seeing all the target birds in one long morning. Without the travel agent’s help I think this could take a couple of days to organise and it would be difficult to work out which office to go to in which order and what forms were needed!
The park was well worth it though, there was not another person in site for the whole time we were there. It is worth taking the camel cart from the information centre even just to carry your tripod and telescope and maybe your girlfriend! It gets pretty hot and tiring out there in the late morning. The Indian Bustard proved elusive and only gave themselves up when we had given up and were almost back at the centre. I saw 3 Macqueen’s bustards scanning from one of the small hills, the birds were outside the bustard enclosure. Stoliczka's Bushchat could easily be missed, we saw one displaying male inside the enclosure. The only bird I wanted to see and missed was hoopoe lark.
Ranthambhor
What a beautiful National Park, the main road from Sawai Madophor gives nothing away, it looks like anywhere else in India. It is not until you enter the park itself which is behind a chain of low hills that you appreciate the place. The first drive I think is the most memorable, entering into forest then a series of lakes, hills, grassland, cliffs and observing the abundant wildlife, a truly wonderful experience. We were lucky enough to see a tiger on our second jeep ride into the park. I know people who have taken 15 rides into the park and not seen one. Jeeps are vastly preferable to Canters, and not much more expensive if shared between 4 people. They are though much harder to obtain. We purposefully booked expensive safari style accommodation so we could guarantee at least two jeep rides 4-5 months prior to our trip. Birding tends to be easier from jeeps as you don’t have to persuade as many people to stop for small or difficult to see species. They are also more versatile on the tracks and appear to disturb the shier birds and animals less.
Baratphur
This famous site lived up to expectations and was the wettest it had been in several years, although there didn’t seem to be quite as many birds as there were when I visited in 2000 there were plenty to keep me occupied for several days. With thousands of ducks, hundreds of herons, egrets and storks, hundreds of cormorants and a small mixed flock of pelicans to be getting on with.
The more interesting and target species I wanted to see were as follows;
# Dusky Eagle Owl seen Nesting by main road to temple, Collared Scops Owl roosting along main road to temple and two at the temple.
# Orange headed Thrush, Tickell’s thrush and Red throated Flycatcher seen at the intersection of Jatoli canal (along path from Sapan Mari) and north south path from nursery, cross over canal then walking into the forest on the left (west side of path).
# Brooks leaf warbler seen in acacias by python gate, from the temple head south on the main path to python gate turn right towards Lala Pyare Ka Kund, just over the canal is a small pool on left head into the acacia trees to the right. We saw the warbler in the tops of the acacias here two mornings running it was calling almost constantly. # Marshall’s Iora had been seen here as well but not by me and rubythroat by the bridge over the canal in the damp undergrowth on the banks of the canal.
# Large tailed nightjar was seen roosting on the east side of path just south of python gate, under a large bees nest! Grey Nightjar was found roosting on main road near the sluice gate.
# Indian Courser, Sociable plover & Isabelline wheatear were seen in the dry area south of python gate, from the temple head south on the main path to python gate, turn left towards python point then left again, on quite a rough path which eventually meets the better path between Kadam Kunj and the temple around mansarovar lake. Roughly half way between python point and the good path head off right (S.E) into the large dry fields of Hans Sarovar. We walked across one semi desert/ grass field to a line of bushes then into a larger semi desert grass field this is where the birds were.
# Red Avadavat was seen in grassland in the south of the park, take a left turn after Kadam Kunj when cycling from the temple round mansarovar into a good grassland area with a few trees, you should be able to see Sikeer Malkoha here as well
# Lesser Spotted Eagle was seen perched above path between temple and python gate early morning in the mist
# Yellow Wattled lapwing was seen before Kadam Kung on the good path from the temple around mansarovar on the east side of the path in a large tree lined fields, only in morning.
# Northern Lapwing was seen from the brick path looking NE
Accommodation
Delhi – We stayed in a pretty pokey hotel called the H.K.Choudhary Paying Guest House in Connaught place. I wouldn’t really give it a recommendation, other than you can book from the UK and its fairly central.
Jodphur – Ratan Villas, this was a delightful large villa with courtyard, roof top and gardens. The restaurant was in the courtyard and served a great set dinner in the evening. Apparently you can get a pair of Jodphurs tailor made for you if you stay long enough for them to be made! Approximate cost of hotel 900R for a double room.
Phalodi – Stayed at the Hotel Sunrise, this was over priced at 400R for a very budget hotel and pretty awful. We had dinner at the Lal Niwas Days Inn and should have stayed here, but at the time we decided it was out of our budget. In hindsight we had one of the worst nights sleep of our trip, in a flee pit, with a generator outside our window which was running all night.
Jaisalmer – Stayed at Hotel Suraj inside the fort, which is an old haveli. The rooms were huge, but a bit rough around the edges. There was a nice atmosphere and the family who ran it were very friendly. Maybe a bit over priced at 1100R.
Ranthambhor – We stayed at The Ranthambhor Bagh hotel. What can I say, there was a great set up with accommodation in safari tents and meals served in the garden. This was great in the day but a bit cold at night. The main problem was the lady who runs the hotel. She has to be the worst kind of hotel proprietor, a total snob, treating her staff like slaves and no prices were shown for anything. Be prepared to get hit with a massive bill at the end of your stay. They triple the price of bottled water and for a $100 a night in an all inclusive hotel you would expect clean drinking water, of which there was none. An item of our laundry went missing and was never found, and there was no hot water for washing for two days, again for the price you would expect this. She also tried to double charge us for going to both lakes outside the park which I thought was a bit much at $50 each, as we spent half the allowed time at the first lake and the second was not a massive distance away! When we queried our over inflated bill she treated us with utter contempt. The only saving grace was we got two jeep rides into the park and saw a tiger. I would definitely not recommend this place.
Baratphur – What a contrast, we stayed at Jungle Lodge for 300R a night. It is not far from the national park, on the strip with many hotels. It was an absolute pleasure to stay here. The owner, Ashok, is such a lovely man and fantastic host. We ended up staying five whole days. He has bikes that you can borrow to go the park and a good knowledge of the park and local area. We were well looked after, his wife baked a cake as it was my girlfriends birthday, he took her to the pharmacist when she had a chest infection, he also cooked up a feast on new years eve and even got out a couple of bottles of whisky for all the guests. He arranged a driver to take us to Bund Baretha where we had lunch at his house by the lake. We were also able to arrange a driver to take us to Agra for the day to see the Taj Mahl and Fatephur Sikri, which was well worth the visit. We even ended up getting a taxi from Baratphur to Delhi airport (a four hour journey) on our last night, for which the cost was less than the 5 mile cab ride from Heathrow to home on our return to England.
Transport
We had a pre-arranged pick up from Delhi airport to our first hotel, recommended if you arrive late at night. This avoids the hassle of taxi drivers trying to take you to a tourist information place or random hotel rather than your desired one.
We had also pre-booked a train ticked in Wembley (London) for our first journey from Delhi to Jodphur as previous experience has told me that sleeper trains are often booked up several days in advance. We got the Mandor Express at 9pm from Delhi to Jodphur which took around 12hrs. We were put in two-tier A/C class.
For the journey from Jodphur to Phalodi we took a government bus for 57R and the journey took 3 hrs from here to Jaisalmer we caught the inter-city train, sitting in unreserved class for 50R, the train left at 10.15am and was pretty empty.
On the route back from Jaisalmer to Jodphur we took the 11.15pm express arriving around 5am in Jodphur, this was late but we managed to catch our connection with the Jodphur – Sawai Madophur train at the station before Jodphur. The train had already left jodhpur but appeared to wait for us at this other station on the outskirts of town. We arrived in Sawai Madophur at about 2 pm and were met by a driver from our hotel.
For the journey between Ranthambhor (Sawai Madophur) and Baratphur our desired train was full even 3 days in advance, this is a busy line and we ended up on the 7.20am in seated class arriving about 10.00am.
For out final journeys we couldn’t face the trains or buses so used a car and driver, Baratphur – Agra & Fatephur Sikri 700R, Baratphur to Bund Baretha for the whole day 800R and Baratphur to Delhi Airport taking 4 hrs and costing 2000R.
Daily itinerary
16 Dec Fri 2005
Flew from Heathrow to Delhi via Frankfurt
17 Dec Sat 2005
Arrived Delhi at 2am local time. Picked up by man from our hotel. Got up late, had breakfast on the roof of the hotel then wandered off through old delhi to the Red Fort. Managed to see a few birds there. Caught the 9pm train to Jodphur.
18 Dec Sun 2005
Arrived Jodphur at 9:30 am checked intot he Ratan vilas. Had breakfast in the courtyard and managed to see a few birds from the roof of the hotel. We then headed up to the famous fort just out of town, there were quite a few raptors out on the thermals in the middle of the day. On route back to town we stopped at Jaswant Thada a temple with a lake this held a few of the commoner species.
19 Dec Mon 2005
Had a lie in after a tiring start to the holiday, had breakfast and then caught the govt. bus to Phalodi. We arrived in this small town early afternoon and checked into the Hotel Sunrise. Took a rickshaw to Keechan to see the cranes, there were several thousand present! In the evening we decided to go to the more salubrious hotel in the old part of town and had a very nice meal there.
20 Dec Tue 2005
Up at 8 am went to the bus station, there was no bus leaving until 12 so we headed to the train station and caught the 10.15 am intercity to Jaisalmer. Some good birding was had from an impromptu stop on route, but it was quite comical trying to get myself and telescope/tripod back on to a moving train. We checked into a hotel inside the fort for 3 nights. After lunch I walked down to the tank just outside town and birded around the edge for the rest of the afternoon.
21 Dec Wed 2005
The whole morning was spent trying to get permits to the Desert National Park (DNP), after lunch we took a boat out onto the tank which was very nice.
22 Dec Thurs 2005
Up 5.30 am met our jeep and driver at the entrance to the fort around 6 am. Picked up a DNP guard and headed off to the desert. Stopped as the sun came up after the turn off from Sam on the edge of the park. Made a few stops at good vantage points to scan for bustards. Made it to the Information centre at Sudaseri where we hired a man and his camel cart to take us around the enclosure. Saw most of the good birds by 1pm when it started to get pretty hot, headed slowly back to Jaisalmer.
23 Dec Fri 2005
Had a morning stroll around the tank and into the semi desert to the south, chilled out for the afternoon, caught the overnight train to Jodphur leaving at 11.15 pm.
24 Dec Sat 2005
We arrived at a station near Jodphur around 5.45 am, managed to catch our connecting train here as our train was running late. Finally made it to Sawai Madophur at 2pm. We were picked up at the station and taken to the Ranthambhor Bagh Hotel. After a late lunch I had a productive walk up the road towards the park.
25 Dec Sun 2005
Up at 6am got jeep into park with an Italian couple staying at another lodge. We were in the park between 7-10 am. Saw lots of birds and animals including a jungle cat. Came back for lunch then headed out in the afternoon on various means of transport to get to the fort inside the park. Walked back down the entrance road birding on route.
26 Dec Mon 2005
Up early took jeep into park with a couple from Fulham in London. We had a fairly slow start not seeing much and missing a tiger by a few minutes. Then we struck lucky seeing a male on the track for 10 seconds or so, he disappeared and the other jeeps left, we went back after a few minutes and sure enough he came back out. We had amazing views of him right out in the open walking and sitting on the track then in light bush as well. I took about 20 photos! Saw lots of birds again. After lunch I had a walk near Pug-mark resort, mainly looking for sandgrouse and a chance at courser.
27 Dec Tue 2005
Took a jeep out in the morning to go to Soorwal and Mansarowar Lakes, saw lots of birds but no skimmers. After lunch took a canter into the park, our driver from the morning gave us the best seats up front with him, which was nice.
28 Dec Wed 2005
7.20 am train to Baratphur arrived at 10 am. Checked into the Jungle Lodge had a rest. Headed into the park at 2pm took a cycle rickshaw to the temple, saw 60+ species just in the last few hours of the day.
29 Dec Thu 2005
Up early, cycled into the park, met guide who I had spoken to the day before at the centre point. Cycled all over the park with him for about 12 hours! Saw in excess of 100 species and at least 10 of my target birds.
30 Dec Fri 2005
Followed a similar route to yesterday on my own, picked up a few more species. The early morning fog took a long while to lift.
31 Dec Sat 2005
Our touristy day, took a car and driver to Agra saw the Taj Mahal then in the afternoon went to Fatepur Sikri. Had new year festivities at Jungle lodge in Baratphur.
1 Jan Sun 2006
Excellent day out at Bund Baretha, no skimmers but lots of birds saw in excess of 110 species. Had lunch at Ashok’s house by the lake. Got car and driver to take us to Delhi airport. Leaving at 8pm arriving at 12 midnight.
2 Jan Mon 2006
2 am flight from Delhi via Frankfurt to London Heathrow arriving early morning.
Grey Francolin 4 birds Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12, 6 birds Ranthambhor 24/12, in the National Park & around the fort 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Jungle Bush Quail 5-6 birds Ranthambhor NP 25/12 and a small group at Bund Baretha 1/1
Painted Spurfowl male & female Ranthambhor NP near fort early morning 25/12 and another male & female on the approach road into the park in the afternoon
Indian Peafowl Ranthambhor 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Grey Lag Goose Baratphur 29/12
Bar Headed Goose Flock at Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Shelduck Mansarowar lake 27/12
Ruddy Shelduck Jaisalmer tank 3 birds 23/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, at Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 30/12
Comb Duck Baratphur 30/12 four birds from brick path and 6 seen at Bund Baretha on 1/1
Cotton Pygmy Goose Ranthambhor NP 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Gadwall Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Eurasian Wigeon Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12
Mallard Keechan 19/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Spot Billed Duck Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Teal Jodphur 18/12, Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12 and Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Northern Pintail Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, flocks of 100’s at Baratphur on 28, 29 & 30/12 a truely lovely sight when they were all feeding upside down together also seen at Bund Baretha 1/1
Northern Shoveler Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12 and Baratphur 28 & 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Pochard Jaisalmer tank 20/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Red Crested Pochard 5 birds seen at Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Ferruginous Duck Bund Baretha 1/1
Tufted Duck Jaisalmer tank 21/12
Wryneck Baratphur 28/12 a single bird in dry area
Black Rumped Flameback 2 birds Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/12 and , Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12
Coppersmith Barbet Jodphur 18/12 from hotel roof
Common Hoopoe Lots at the Red fort Delhi 17/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12 & 23/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Roller Phalodi 19/12, Ranthambhor NP 26/12 also outside the park, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Kingfisher Jaisalmer tank 21/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
White Throated Kingfisher Delhi 17/12, Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 21/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Pied Kingfisher Jodphur 18/12, , Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Green Bee Eater Jodphur fort 18/12, Phalodi 19/12, Jaisalmer 20/12 & 23/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Ranthambhor 25/12
Asian Koel Jodphur 18/12
Greater Coucal Ranthambhor 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Alexandrine Parakeet Red fort Delhi 17/12, Ranthambhor 25/12
Rose Ringed Parakeet Red fort Delhi 17/12, Jodphur fort 18/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Plum Headed Parakeet Red fort Delhi 17/12, Jodphur fort 18/12, Ranthambhor especially around the fort 25/12,
House Swift Jaisalmer town 21/12
Barn Owl Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens around 10pm on 25/12
Collared Scops Owl 2 birds on day roost above the track at Ranthambhor 25/12 & 26/12, single bird along main tarmac road at Baratphur 28/12 and two more at the temple at the end of the road, also seen on 29/12.
Dusky Eagle Owl Baratphur 28/12 one on a nest by the main tarmac road plus another bird also from the road
Spotted Owlet Ranthambhor NP approach road 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12
Grey Nightjar Baratphur 29/12 & 30/12 roosting along main road
Large Tailed Nightjar Baratphur 29/12 roosting east side of path just south of python gate
Rock Pigeon Delhi 17/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Laughing Dove Jodphur 18/12
Spotted Dove Ranthambhor 26/12
Red Collared Dove Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12 & 23/12
Eurasian Collared Dove Delhi 17/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Yellow Footed Green Pigeon 5 birds at the entrance to the Red fort Delhi 17/12, 10+ Ranthambhor NP 25/12, flock of 25 birds at Baratphur 29/12
Indian Bustard male & female Sudaseri bustard enclosure DNP 22/12 close to the information centre, awesome birds huge size especially in flight. Had spent 5 hours on a camel cart looking for them and ended up seeing them back where we started!
Macqueen's Bustard male & 2 females Sudaseri bustard enclosure DNP 22/12
Sarus Crane Baratphur 2 birds on 28/12, 2 close to path in thick mist on the morning of 30/12 & another 4 close to the brick path in the afternoon
Demoiselle Crane Keechan 19/12 several 1,000 birds quite an amazing sight
Common Crane Baratphur 30/12 four birds from brick path
White Breasted Waterhen Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Purple Swamphen Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Moorhen Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Coot Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Chestnut Bellied Sandgrouse Several flocks Desert National Park 22/12
Painted Sandgrouse 17 birds near pugmark resort Ranthambhor mid afternoon on 26/12 + 2 more later in the same area. The main group was seen at the base of the hill with the small temple on top not far from the turn off up to the national park. They wer eont eh west side of the hill just up from the obvious flat area.
Common Snipe Keechan 19/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 28/12
Black Tailed Godwit Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Eurasian Curlew Soorwal Lake 27/12
Common Redshank Baratphur 28/12
Spotted Redshank Jaisalmer tank 20/12, 6 birds there on 21/12
Marsh Sandpiper Jaisalmer tank 20/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Greenshank Jaisalmer tank 21/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Green Sandpiper 3 birds Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12
Wood Sandpiper Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Sandpiper Jodphur 18/12, Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Temminck's Stint Jaisalmer tank 23/12, Baratphur 29/12
Little Stint Baratphur 29/12
Ruff Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12 and Keechan 19/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Courser 11 birds at Baratphur 29/12 South East of python gate
Cream Coloured Courser 6 birds in flight and 4 on the ground seen from the train near Jaisalmer 20/12 and gropus of 6 & 4 at the Desert Nationsl Park 22/12
Black Winged Stilt Jodphur 18/12, Keechan 19/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Avocet Soorwal Lake 27/12
Pheasant Tailed Jacana Winter plumaged bird Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 29/12 & 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Bronze Winged Jacana Ranthambhor NP 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Little Ringed Plover Jaisalmer tank 23/12, 2 birds Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 29/12
Kentish Plover Baratphur 29/12
Northern Lapwing Baratphur 30/12 seen from brick path with lots of red wattled
Yellow Wattled Lapwing Baratphur 30/12 near Kadam Kung
River lapwing Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12
Red Wattled lapwing Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12 & 23/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 28/12, 29/12 & 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Sociable plover 5 birds Baratphur 29/12 South East of python gate
White Tailed Plover 2 birds Jaisalmer tank 21/12 & one on 23/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12
Great Black Headed Gull Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12
Yellow Legged Gull Soorwal Lake 27/12
Black Headed Gull Soorwal Lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Gull Billed Tern Soorwal Lake 27/12, Ranthambhor NP 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
River Tern 2 birds Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12, Ranthambhor NP 26/12 & 27/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Whiskered Tern Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Osprey Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12
Black Shouldered Kite Ranthambhor 24/12, in the National Park 26/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Black Kite Delhi 17/12, Jodphur fort 18/12
Egyptian Vulture Jodphur fort 18/12, from train near Jaisalmer 20/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Baratphur 29/12
White Rumped Vulture Jodphur fort 18/12, DNP 22/12
Long Billed Vulture One bird Jodphur fort 18/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/11 seen on nest from main road into park
Eurasian Griffon Jodphur fort 18/12 10+ birds
Short Toed Eagle Jodphur fort 18/12, from train near Jaisalmer 20/12
Crested Serpant Eagle Ranthambhor NP approach road 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Marsh Harrier Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12
Shikra Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Oriental Honey Buzzard Jodphur fort 18/12
Long Legged Buzzard Jaisalmer tank area 23/12
Greater Spotted Eagle Baratphur 28/12 & juv on 29/12
Indian Spotted Eagle Baratphur 30/12 seen very close perched and in flight above path between temple and python gate
Steppe Eagle Jodphur fort 18/12, Sudaseri Desert National Park 22/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Tawny Eagle Sudaseri Desert National Park 22/12
Imperial Eagle Baratphur 30/12 seen from brick path and one at Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Kestrel Jaisalmer 20/12
Laggar Falcon Desert National Park 22/12
Little Grebe Jodphur fort 18/12, Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Baratphur 28 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Darter Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/11, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Little Cormorant Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Cormorant Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Great Cormorant Jaisalmer tank 21/12, Ranthambhor 25/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Little Egret Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Great Egret Ranthambhor NP 25 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Intermediate Egret Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Cattle Egret Soorwal Lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Pond Heron Jodphur 18/12, Jaisalmer tank 23/12, Ranthambhor 25/12 & 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Grey Heron Jaisalmer tank 21/12, Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Purple Heron Ranthambhor 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Black Crowned Night Heron Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Greater Flamingo 2 at Soorwal Lake 27/12
Glossy Ibis Baratphur 28/12, 7 birds on 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Black Headed Ibis Jodphur 18/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Eurasian Spoonbill Jaisalmer tank 20/12, 7 birds there 21/12, Ranthambhor NP 5 birds on 25/12 & 2 birds on 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12, 29/12 & a flock of 100+ on 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Great White Pelican A few juvenilles Soorwal Lake 27/12, also a few on Mansarowar lake 27/12 and 20+ Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12
Dalmatian Pelican A few at Baratphur 29/12 with Great whites but only seen distantly
Painted Stork Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Asian Openbill Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 30/12 from the brick path and Bund Baretha 1/1
Wooly Necked Stork Mansarowar lake 27/12, Ranthambhor NP 27/12, Baratphur 29/12
Black Necked Stork Baratphur 28/12, adult & juv there on 29/12 and 2 adults on 30/12
Isabelline Shrike Jaisalmer tank area 23/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Bay Backed Shrike Ranthambhor 24/12, Baratphur 29/12
Long Tailed Shrike Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Southern Grey Shrike From train near Jaisalmer 20/12, Jaisalmer tank area 20/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Ranthambhor 26/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Rufous Treepie Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12 & 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
House Crow Delhi 17/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Large Billed Crow Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Small Minivet Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 26/12 & 27/12
White Browed fantail Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12 & 26/12
Black Drongo Delhi 17/12, Jaisalmer 20/12, Ranthambhor 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
White Bellied Drongo Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 27/12, Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens 26/12
Common Iora Ranthambhor 24/12
Common Woodshrike Ranthambhor 24/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12
Blue Rock Thrush Bund Baretha 1/1
Orange Headed Thrush Baratphur 29/12 by the Jatoli canal and one at the nursery on 30/12 also one at Bund Baretha 1/1
Tickell's Thrush 1st winter female Baratphur 29/12 by the Jatoli canal
Red Throated Flycatcher male & female Baratphur 29/12 by the Jatoli canal
Red Breasted Flycatcher male Ranthambhor 24/12, seen inside the National Park 25/12 & 26/12 and at Baratphur on 29/12 and male & female on 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Grey Headed Canary Flycatcher Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Bluethroat male & 5+ 1st winter birds at Baratphur on 29/12 by the pythin gate and male & female there on 30/12 plus 2 from the brick path in the afternoon also one at Bund Baretha 1/1
Oriental Magpie Robin Delhi 17/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12 & 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Indian Robin Seen from train near Jodphur 24/12, Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Black Redstart Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12 & 26/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Stoliczka's Bushchat male Sudaseri bustard enclosure DNP 22/12 seen perching on low bushes and hopping around on the ground, fairly plain bird with distinct supercillium. The bird made up for this with an amazing display, he puffed out his chest lent his head right back and wagged his tail from side to side.
Pied Bushchat Soorwal Lake 27/12, male & female Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Brown Rock Chat Jodphur fort 18/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Eastern Pied Wheatear male & female seen from train near Jaisalmer 20/12, lot sin the DNP 22/12, Jaisalmer tank area 23/12, Ranthambhor 26/12
Rufous Tailed Wheatear Only one seen perched on wires by the road near Sam in the thar desert 22/12
Desert Wheatear Lots seen in the Desert National Park 22/12, also near Sam in the thar desert the same day, Jaisalmer tank area 23/12
Isabelline Wheatear Desert National Park 22/12, Jaisalmer tank area 23/12, Baratphur 29/12 South East of python gate
Brahminy Starling Red fort in Delhi 17/12, Ranthambhor 26/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Starling Jaisalmer tank 20/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12 a few wintering birds at each site
Asian Pied Starling Red fort in Delhi 17/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Myna Delhi 17/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Bank Myna Bund Baretha 1/1
Great Tit Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 26/12
Plain Martin Keechan 19/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Dusky Crag Martin Jodphur fort 18/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12
Barn Swallow Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Red Rumped Swallow Ranthambhor 24/12
White Eared Bulbul Jaswant Thada Jodphur 18/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Baratphur 30/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Red Vented Bulbul Delhi 17/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Rufous Fronted Prinina Ranthambhor 26/12
Grey Breasted Prinia Ranthambhor 24/12
Plain Prinia Ranthambhor 24/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Ashy Prinia Ranthambhor 24/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Oriental White Eye Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Blyth's Reed Warbler Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Clamorous Reed Warbler Baratphur 29/12
Lesser Whitethroat Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Desert Lesser Whitethroat Jaisalmer tank area 20/12, Desert National Park 22/12
Orphean Warbler Jaisalmer tank area 20/12
Desert Warbler Jaisalmer tank area in acacias south of the lake 23/12
Common Tailorbird Ranthambhor 24/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common Chiffchaff Phalodi 19/12, Jaisalmer tank area 20/12, tristis type at Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Tickell's Leaf Warbler Bund Baretha 1/1
Brook's Leaf Warbler Single bird at Baratphur 29/12 & 30/12 close to python gate
Hume's Leaf Warbler Ranthambhor 24/12, Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens 25/12, Ranthambhor NP 26/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Yellow Eyed Babbler Ranthambhor Bagh hotel gardens 25/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Common babbler Phalodi 19/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Large Grey Babbler Ranthambhor 26/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12, Baratphur 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Jungle Babbler Jodphur fort 18/12, Ranthambhor 24/12, inside the National Park 25/12, Baratphur 28/12 & 29/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Black Crowned Sparrow Lark male seen from train near Jaisalmer 20/12, Desert National Park 22/12
Ashy Crowned Sparrow Lark Ranthambhor 26/12
Rufous tailed Lark Mansarowar lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Desert Lark 3 birds in the semi desert area south of Jaisalmer tank 23/12
Bimaculated Lark 20+ birds seen from train between Phalodi and Jaisalmer 20/12 also lots in the Desert National Park 22/12
Greater Short Toed Lark Keechan 19/12, Desert National Park 22/12, Ranthambhor 26/12
Purple Sunbird Red fort in Delhi 17/12, Ranthambhor 24/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
House Sparrow Delhi 17/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Chestnut Shouldered Petronia Ranthambhor 26/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
White Wagtail Keechan 19/12, Jaisalmer tank 20/12 and lots there 23/12, Baratphur 29/12
White Browed Wagtail Jaisalmer tank 23/12, Soorwal Lake 27/12, Mansarowar lake 27/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Citrine Wagtail Jaisalmer tank 20/12 and 30+ there on 23/12 and Bund Baretha 1/1
Yellow Wagtail Baratphur 29/12
Grey Wagtail Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 30/12 from the brick path
Richard's Pipit Baratphur 29/12 South East of python gate and near Kadam Kung on 30/12
Tawny Pipit Jaisalmer tank 20/12 & 23/12, DNP 22/12, Ranthambhor 26/12
Olive Backed Pipit Baratphur 29/12 by the Jatoli canal and 5-6 birds on 30/12
Water pipit 8 wintering birds at Jaisalmer tank on 23/12
Baya Weaver A few at Bund Baretha 1/1
Red Avadavat 3 males & 9 females at Baratphur 29/12 in grassland near Kadam Kunj
Indian Silverbill Jaisalmer tank area 23/12, Ranthambhor NP 25/12, Baratphur 29/12 in grassland near Kadam Kunj and Bund Baretha 1/1
White Capped Bunting Bund Baretha 1/1 non breeding male + female seen
Animals
Desert Fox 3 Sudaseri bustard enclosure DNP 22/12
Jackal singles seen outside Ranthambhor Bagh 25/12, main road by the NP 27/12, Baratphur 28/12 and four at a kill from the brick path there on 30/12
Ruddy Mongoose Ranthambhor Fort 25/12
Small Indian Mongoose Baratphur 30/12
Indian Palm Civet Baratphur on the roof of our hotel 31/12
Indian Flying Fox Bund Baretha 1/1
Nilgai (Blue Bull) Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/12
Samba deer Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/12
Spotted Deer Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/12
Wild Boar Ranthambhor NP 25/12
Muuger Crocodile Ranthambhor NP 25/12
Grey Langur Ranthambhor NP 25/12, 26/12 & 27/12
Rhesus Macaque Ranthambhor NP 25/12
Jungle Cat Ranthambhor NP 25/12
Bengal Tiger Ranthambhor NP 26/12, after narrowly missing one by a matter of moments we saw a male out in the open for about a minute or two. He walked towards us on the track then sat by the side of the road and stared at a spotted deer for about 20 seconds before moving off.