Alas Purwo appears to be visited by few birdwatchers and no recent trip report to the park were found before we went. Information is available on Burung Nusantara (http://burung-nusantara.org/) and is the site is contained within the Periplus Birding Indonesia book (Jepson et al 1997).
There is also little information on Ijen Plateau which is also not well visited by birdwatchers. John Gregory’s Trip report was very useful and provided the primary information for this trip.
Logistics
We arrived in East Java from Bali on the Ferry from Gilimanuk with no set plan. We walked across the road from the ferry terminal looking for tour companies. We walked into pretty much the first one we came across which was Ijen Tours to get an idea of how long it would take and how much it would cost to visit either Baluran, Ijen Plateau, Alas Purwo or Meru Betiri. We only had three to four days.
After discussions with the tour company we arrived at a plan. We were dropped off at Triangulasi, Alas Purwo on the 27th August; then picked up from Triangulasi on 30th at 11:00am and GS was taken to the Berlian Abadi hotel in Banyuwangi DD was taken to Ketapang to catch the ferry back to Bali. GS was then picked up from the hotel in Banguwanyi at 4am on 31st August to go to Kawah Ijen and dropped back to hotel at 4pm. The cost for this was 1.5 million Rupiah all inclusive. Depending on how much you want to bargain prices could be negotiated.
GS then hired the driver for the following day 1st September to again go to the forested section of Ijen, picking up at 5am and leaving Ijen at 12pm to be dropped back to the ferry terminal at Ketapang (this cost 400,000 rupiah).
Alas Purwo
It was a three hour drive from Ketapang to Triangulasi including the usual stop for lunch (goat kebabs, very nice). The park entrance is at a place called Rowobendo which is 3kms from the accommodation at Triangulasi. Rowobendo is a collection of buildings including a basic Canteen. There is an entrance fee, but we do not know the price as it was included in our package. There is a road on the right as you come in at Rowobendo which we did not explore but may go to the estuary in the west of the park (Segara Anak). Accommodation in Triangulasi is at basic elevated cottages containing beds, a cupboard and a small balcony for 50 000 rupiah per person per night. Electricity is turned on between 5 and 10pm when guests are present. Traditional mandi baths and toilets are provided in shared facilities. The beds weren’t overly comfortable but were fine. There was no mosquito wire on the windows but there were surprisingly few mosquitos around although I realized a bit later that there were either bed bugs or else I copped a few mozzie bites in the mandi. Be warned apparently Malaria is present from December to February during the rainy season, which is probably not a great time to visit anyway.
We were told food was available but got conflicting information about this before we got there. We subsequently found that the very basic canteen at the park entrance (Rowobendo) which is about 3 kilometers from Triangulasi has basic supplies such as biscuits, the ubiquitous very stale Beng Bengs, 2-minute noodles, water, soft drinks and supposedly warm beer plus a few other things. We ate here the first night and probably had the only thing on the menu, mie goring (fried noodles) with egg (no vegetables or meat was available). We bought enough bottles of water with us to last while we were there but it was good to know water was available.
We then spoke to the bloke who was looking after the accommodation (his name is Ketut) who told us his wife could cook for us. They provided us with lunch and dinner for the rest of the trip which was great. The food was typical; curry beef, vegetables and rice or fried noodles or rice with vegetables and egg. The food was tasty, no ill effects were felt. Ketut, was very friendly and helpful and can arrange trips to the nearby mangrove lined estuary (Segara Anak) and other places for what seemed pretty standard and reasonable costs. It is worth noting that if no tourists are there then the rangers at the gate call him at his home (about 30 kilometers away) and he comes to Triangulasi to look after the guests. Therefore if no-one is there when you turn up, have no fear he will be on his way. Ketut arranged two bikes for us to get around on, unfortunately one had a dodgy back wheel, probably with no ball bearings at all. We soon realized that it was too far gone to be used, so ended up walking although the other bike was ok. We didn’t go further afield than the roads and trails within a few kilometers which kept us busy but it would probably be worth going to the mangroves.
It was dry the whole time we were there and surprisingly cool. It even got slightly cold in the early morning, Ketut provides you with a blanket, which at first you think is some kind of joke but which was good to have at about 3 am. Day temperatures were below 30 degrees celsius and it was not very humid so it was very pleasant. The sea water is surprisingly cold for this latitude and the surf is apparently dangerous with strong rips. Turtle breeding time is in July.
All in all we found Alas Purwo an easy, inexpensive, pretty comfortable and great birdwatching spot; highly recommended.
Ijen Plateau
Part of the Plateau is actually a National Park although you wouldn’t know it, there is no signage and there is evidence of exploitation and hunting throughout the forested zone. The forest begins at about 1000m after a drive of about 1 hour from Banyuwangi, at first through suburbs but then a variety of plantations such as teak, rubber, coffee and cloves. Where the forest first begins there is the first of 4 falling down shelters (Pos 1). This forest is mostly second growth in nature but with some larger trees. The bird composition here is different from that higher up and it is worth exploring. The road winds back and forth for several kilometers and at times is very steep and rough. The forest changes in nature becoming more montane as you climb. There are three more fallen down shelters (Pos 2, 3 and 4) which are useful markers. Pos 4 is probably about 7-8 kms from Pos 1 by road but is about 3.5 kms as the crow flies (according to GPS). Pos 4 is at an elevation of about 1450m and I mainly birdwatched from here walking down the road and the many side trails to Pos 1, getting my driver to pick me up at a designated time on the road wherever I may be. The forest does continue a bit further up the road.
Pos Paltuding is where the walk to the Volcano crater starts. It is at 1850m and you can sleep there in basic cottages but is a bit expensive at 150 000 for one person per night with no hot water, pretty handy at this altitude. It costs 15 000 rupiah to do the walk and a further 30 000 if you want to use a camera. Food is available at a canteen which was doing a brisk trade on the morning I was there. It has a reasonable menu and much appreciated coffee. Pos Paltuding has a mixture of open grassy areas and dense shrubbery. The trail to volcano crater (Kawah Ijen) is steep, well worn and was busy when I was there. Vegetation is low dense shrubbery with an overstorey of small and large Casuarinas. Some low broad leaved forest was present in the gullies. The road continues past Pos Paltuding to Bondawosa. According to John Gregory’s report, there is no forest on this side of the plateau although this is where the Arabika Hotel and other options for accommodation are. The good forest worth exploring (from 1450m downwards) is about 3 to 4 kms back along the road towards Bangyuwangi through dense shrubland. This section of the road is narrow with little room for walking between the road and shrubs did not appear to be great for birding although Russet Bush-warbler is likely. I didn’t stay in Pos Paltuding as I hadn’t organized for my transport to stay overnight but this did not prove to be a problem.
Birdwatching
Alas Purwo
We saw Green Peafowl in the teak plantation as you drive through to the park. Less than 500m from Triangulasi back along the main road is a road of to the right which goes to the G’land surf camps (Bobbies and probably others). They are about 14 kilometers away. The road goes through forest of varying heights and structures. About 2 kilometers from the turn off is a small freshwater mangrove lined estuary. Beyond there the road runs close to the beach through open coastal forest. After a kilometer or so it rises up on to drier plateau with deciduous trees and bamboo. We did not explore this section (or beyond) as it was about midday on the day we did this section. Bird composition would probably be different to the other areas explored.
A further one kilometer back along the ‘main’ road is the turn off to Sedangen Grazing ground. This road goes through the forest for about 1 – 1.5 kilometers with quite mature teak plantation on one side of the road for some time. This road is great for birdwatching. There are two 90 degree bends in the road. At the first one a small track continues ahead at the bend and there is a small sign on a tree announcing that this is the ‘Birdwatching Trail’ (Jalur Pengamatan Burung). This trail goes through for about 2 to 3 kilometers and meets up with the road to the surf camps at the bridge over the small estuary. The trail is generally easy to follow but there are diversions around the many tree falls across the path. The trail has many tree falls and looks like it has been selectively logged in the past with second growth and scrubby areas. The canopy can easily be seen in many places which offering good opportunities to observe canopy birds and mixed flocks. After about 6-800m there are two very large strangler fig trees which we were good for birds. Blue-eared Barbet was particularly numerous in these trees but we also saw a flock of about 40 Grey-cheeked Pigeons and lots of bulbuls. Further on we came to large tree fall opening where we flushed a Barred Eagle-Owl. It flew into the canopy of a nearby tree and we managed to track it down. We got good views of it from the side and directly underneath through gaps in the foliage. We watched it perched on a large branch in the canopy for about 30 minutes and it was still there when we left.
After the second 90 degree bend in the road to Sadengen the road passes through a section of bamboo which was good for bulbuls and mixed species flocks. From here to the grazing grounds was good birdwatching with some large fig trees, especially good for Orange-breasted Pigeon, Green Imperial Pigeon and Oriental Pied Hornbill, which were common, pink-necked pigeon was seen once. Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot, Horsefields Babbler and Crimson-winged Woodpecker were quite common
Banded Pitta was common in most areas and easily seen. We saw at least three clumps of feathers of Banded Pitta on low logs or on the trail indicating that they were lunch or dinner for something possibly the Barred Eagle Owl we saw. Black-thighed Falconet, Crested Serpent Eagle and White-breasted Sea-eagle were seen at the small tidal creek estuary.
We had a number of good mixed flocks along the road to Sadengen grazing ground and along the birdwatching trail containing species such as: Scarlet Minivet, Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Lesser Cuckoo-shrike, Black-naped Monarch, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Red-billed Malkoha and Grey-cheeked Tit-babbler, was quite common, Crescent-chested Babbler, Temmincks Babbler, Black-capped Babbler, Sunda Woodpecker, White-bellied Woodpecker, Laced Woodpecker, Racket-tailed Treepie, Maroon-breasted Philentoma, Javan Cuckoo-shrike and Grey-breasted Spiderhunter were all seen a couple of times in the forest.
Sedangen grazing ground was a great place to spend some time Banteng and Rusa Deer were seen regularly and a group of warthogs were seen once, not sure if they were Javan or the introduce European. Up to 30 Green Peafowl, 21 Black-winged Starling, 10 Javan Myna, a couple of Javan Kingfisher, Long-tailed Shrike were seen at the grounds. Black Drongo were commonly seen. Brown-backed Needletail were seen a couple of times flying fast and low over the grounds and up to 30 Grey-rumped Tree-swifts and hundreds of Cave Swiftlets came out over the grounds on dusk. Large-tailed Nightjar was seen a couple of times at the grounds.
Other mammals seen in the park included Red Muntjac (Barking Deer) which appeared to be pretty common and unusually approachable at times, Lesser Mouse Deer was seen once, Giant Squirrel was commonly seen and Javan (Ebony) Leaf Monkey were common. Long-tailed Macaques were also numerous.
Ijen Plateau
Woke up to the alarm on my phone got dressed and ready to meet my driver for a 4am start and only then checked my watch to see that it was 2:45! My phone was picking up a Bali signal and hence showed Bali time (an hour forward). After a long hour at the front desk eating my pre-prepared breakfast the driver turned up and we set off. Got to Pos Paltuding at dawn and paid the fees, 15 000 rupiahs plus 30 000 for a camera, (which went straight into his pocket, probably for the kids education fund) and set off on the track to the volcano. After about 150m saw a bird fly up into a nearby tree and found a Horsefield’s (Scaly) Thrush giving good views at close range. Saw two more on the track early on, one of which was approached very closely. Soon after people started to arrive en-mass and the thrushes were not seen again. I spent about an hour and a half on the trail, not going very far. Saw Orange-spotted Bulbul (common), Mountain Leaf-Warbler (common), Mountain White-eye (common) and Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher (2) before heading back. At the large clearing at Pos Paltuding saw some dark shapes in the grass and found a family of five Green Junglefowl, a species which had eluded me at Alas Purwo and was new for me. Got great views out in the open. Also came across a couple of Striated Grassbirds in the shrubs as well as Long-tailed Shrike.
After some breakfast and a welcome coffee at the canteen we drove back down the road at about 8:30 to a dilapidated hut at about 1450m. This Pos (shelter) is the last of four which are all in disrepair but are useful markers, the first of which is at the beginning of the forest (about 1020m). I arranged for my driver to pick me up down the road at 3pm and walked down the road exploring side trails. Javan Bush-warbler was seen pretty well straight away and was common judging by calls but kept to cover most of the time. Flame-fronted Barbet was common judging by calls but incredibly difficult to locate. I only saw one over two days. At about 1400m on the right hand side of the road (heading down) there is a trail with a number of small trails created by people utilizing the forest (probably for hunting). This trail appears to be the old road and is overgrown in parts with second growth. I saw my first mixed flock here with Blue Nuthatch – 20, Sunda Minivet – 15+, Sunda Warbler – 15+, White-bellied Fantail – 2, Mountain Tailorbird – a few, Chestnut-backed Scimitar-babbler – 1 seen, probably a few more present, Chestnut-fronted Shrike-babbler – 1 male, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo – 1 and Black-naped Monarch – 1. Red Jungle Fowl (2), Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot, White-flanked Sunbird and Snowy-browed Flycatcher were also seen. Woodpeckers were seen that looked like Crimson-winged but in eastern Java they are supposedly only in lowlands. Banded and Chequer-throated are the only other possibilities but apparently neither occur in eastern Java. I think they were probably Crimson-winged. The road was very busy with bikes and jeeps screaming in agony as they climbed up the steep slope to the volcano and beyond. It happened to be the busiest time of the year, the beginning of Ramadan and a national holiday for a week. The slope was so steep in parts that any bike passengers had to walk alongside.
By 10:30 there was little bird activity however Sunda Bulbul and Orange-spotted Bulbul were added to the list. Another trail on the left hand side of the road at about 1350m was explored soon after midday and another mixed flock was seen. Many of the same species were seen again including 2 White-bellied Fantails but Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Sunda Cuckoo-shrike and White-browed Shrike-babbler were added to the list. The birding continued to be slow through the remainder of the afternoon but Crescent-chested Babbler was seen along with some common species. Little Cuckoo-dove was heard on a few occasions but not seen.
The following day my driver picked me up at 5am and we got to the last Pos (Pos 4) at about 6am. I walked down the road as I did the day before with my driver picking me up at 11:30 at Pos 1 where the forest begins. Birds were similar as for the day before with Sunda Warbler, Mountain Leaf-warbler, Mountain Tailorbird, the most common species seen and Flame-throated Barbet consistently heard but still infuriatingly difficult to see. Sunda Cuckoo (Cuculus lepidus) was finally identified as the source of a hollow, resonant, three note call heard throughout the forest on both days. Mixed flocks were seen on a number of occasions always consisting of Blue Nuthatch, Sunda Warbler, Mountain Leaf-warbler and Sunda Minivet and often also with White-bellied Fantail, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and others. The prize of the day was a group of at least 20 White-faced Partridges at Pos 3 making a raucous noise for at least 15 minutes. They were hard to observe in the undergrowth but I managed to get see a number scurrying away up a slope. The locals resting their bikes nearby from the steep track up the hill clearly thought I was mad. While I was standing at the edge of the forest staring intently into the undergrowth it was too much for them and they had to come over to see what I was doing. I showed them my binoculars but I still don’t think they understood. At about the same altitude a couple of Indigo Flycatchers, a female Little Pied Flycatcher, 3 Crescent-chested Babbler and a family party of Snowy-browed Flycatcher were seen.
A bit further down the road some more activity was found with some new species Grey-cheeked Bulbul and Crested Jay, 2 working through the undergrowth along with Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Chestnut-backed Scimitar-babbler (2+) and 2 more Woodpeckers, probably Crimson-winged again. Further again down the road at about 1100 meters it was clear that a different zone had been reached as a mixed flock was seen dominated by Javan Grey-throated White-eye and Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike and Black-banded Barbet was heard. Interestingly Blue Nuthatch was still observed at this altitude. A Black Eagle also seen performing a ‘rollercoaster’ display flight, flying up to a peak and then down to a trough about 3 times. The last observation was of 2 fantastic little Grey and Buff Woodpeckers in the canopy of a small regrowth tree. I could hear one tapping away and saw the other below it watching what was going on, delightful birds!
Met the driver at 11:30 at Pos 1 and drove to the ferry terminal.
Alas Purwo Bird List
Javan Pond-Heron Ardeola speciosa 1
White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster 1, 1
Crested Serpent-Eagle Spilornis cheela 1
Black-thighed Falconet Microhierax fringillarius 1
Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus A few
Green Peafowl Pavo muticus 30+ at Sadengen grazing grounds
Pink-necked Pigeon Treron vernans 2
Orange-breasted Pigeon Treron bicincta Common
Gray-cheeked Pigeon Treron griseicauda 40+
Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea Common
Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot Loriculus pusillus Common
Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii Heard
Asian (Square-tailed) Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris 2,1
Red-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus javanicus A few in mixed flocks
Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris A few in mixed flocks
Barred Eagle-Owl Bubo sumatranus 1
Buffy Fish-Owl Ketupa ketupu Possible
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus Common
Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi Very common
Edible-nest Swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus 20+
Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus 5
Gray-rumped Treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis 30+
Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios Possible
Collared Kingfisher Todirhamphus chloris 2
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti Breeding
Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis ?
Oriental Pied-Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris Common
Black-banded Barbet Megalaima javensis A few
Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis Common
Sunda (Brown-capped) Woodpecker Dendrocopos moluccensis A few
White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis A few
Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus Quite common
Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus 1
Banded Pitta Pitta guajana Common
Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica 1
Javan Cuckoo-shrike Coracina javensis A few
Lesser Cuckoo-shrike Coracina fimbriata Common in mixed flocks
Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus Common
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus Common
Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps Common
Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus Common
Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster 1
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier 1
Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus Common
Cream-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus simplex Uncommon
Gray-cheeked Bulbul Alophoixus bres 3
Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Common
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Common
Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina 1
Bar-winged Prinia Prinia familiaris 2
Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Common
Olive-backed Tailorbird Orthotomus sepium Uncommon
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Common
Horsfield's Babbler Malacocincla sepiarium Common
Temminck's Babbler Pellorneum pyrrogenys 2
Black-capped Babbler Pellorneum capistratum 1, 1
Crescent-chested Babbler Stachyris melanothorax Two small flocks
Gray-cheeked Tit-Babbler Macronous flavicollis Common
Great Tit Parus major A few
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis 1
Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis 1
Plain-throated Sunbird Anthreptes malacensis 1
Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis ?
Streaky (Grey) -breasted Spiderhunter Arachnothera affinis 1
Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus 1
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 2
Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis Uncommon
Maroon-breasted Philentoma Philentoma velatum Uncommon
Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus 10+
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Quite common
Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia Uncommon
Slender-billed Crow Corvus enca A few
Javan Myna Acridotheres javanicus 15
Black-winged Starling Acridotheres melanopterus 20
Total bird species 69
Mammals
Eurasian Wild Pig Sus scrofa 10+ at Sedengan grazing grounds
Javan Deer Rusa timorensis 30+ at Sedengan grazing grounds
Red Muntjak (Barking Deer) Muntiacus muntjak muntjak Common
Javan Mouse Deer (Chevrotain) Tragulus javanicus 1 on the birdwatching trail
Banteng Bos javanicus javanicus 30+ at Sedengan grazing grounds
Ebony Leaf Monkey (Lutung) Trachypithecus auratus Common
Long-tailed Macaque Macaca fasciculris Common
Ijen Bird List
Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis 1
Gray-breasted Partridge Arborophila orientalis 20+
Green Junglefowl Gallus varius 5
Little Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia ruficeps Heard
Yellow-throated Hanging-Parrot Loriculus pusillus Common
Sunda Cuckoo Cuculus lepidus 1 seen, heard consistently
Cave Swiftlet Collocalia linchi Common
Black-banded Barbet Megalaima javensis 1
Flame-fronted Barbet Megalaima armillaris Commonly heard
Crimson-winged Woodpecker Picus puniceus ?
Gray-and-buff Woodpecker Hemicircus concretus 2
Sunda Cuckoo-shrike Coracina larvata 2
Sunda Minivet Pericrocotus miniatus Common
Black-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus 20+ in one flock
Orange-spotted Bulbul Pycnonotus bimaculatus Quite common, volcano trail
Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier 1
Sunda Bulbul Ixos virescens Common
Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis 1
Common Iora Aegithina tiphia 1
Javan Whistling-Thrush Myophonus glaucinus Quite common
Scaly (Horsefields) Thrush Zoothera dauma 3
Sunda Bush-Warbler Cettia vulcania Common
Russet Bush-Warbler Bradypterus seebohmi Heard
Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus Common
Olive-backed Tailorbird Orthotomus sepium 2
Mountain Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus Very common
Sunda Warbler Seicercus grammiceps Abundant
Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris 2
Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra Quite common
Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni Quite common
Indigo Flycatcher Eumyias indigo 3
Pale Blue-Flycatcher Cyornis unicolor 2
Gray-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Common
White-bellied Fantail Rhipidura euryura Quite common
Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea A few
Chestnut-backed Scimitar-Babbler Pomatorhinus montanus 2,1
Crescent-chested Babbler Stachyris melanothorax 1
White-browed Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis 2
Chestnut-fronted Shrike-Babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus 1
Blue Nuthatch Sitta azurea Common
White-flanked Sunbird Aethopyga eximia Quite common
Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus Common
Javan Gray-throated White-eye Lophozosterops javanicus 40+ in one flock
Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach 1
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus Quite common
Crested Jay Platylophus galericulatus 2
Total bird species 45
Mammals
Ebony Leaf Monkey (Lutung) Trachypithecus auratus A few
Squirrels Lots