I was in Poland as part of an EU agricultural exchange programme based in Warsaw and Poznan during late May 2003. I took the opportunity to take a week on leave and visit some of the well known National Parks in the eastern Poland notably Biebrza Marshes and Bialowieza Forest.
For information on sites I used 'Where to Watch Birds in Eastern Europe' by Gerard Gorman and Polish National Parks maps, guides and web site. I also met local Polish birdwatchers who provided some very useful and updated information.
All accommodation, train timetables and car hire was organised from Warsaw with the grateful assistance of staff from the Polish Ministry of Environment.
Weather throughout the trip was very hot and dry with temperatures reaching 30°C.
Mosquitoes were a major hazard in all areas and all repellents tried were ineffective!! Ticks are present in all forest areas and carry tick bourn encephalitis.
Summary Itinerary
31/5/03
Morning train from Warsaw to Bialystock. Proceeded by hire car north on R65 via Monki and R670 to Goniadz in the Biebrza Marshes. Evening explored on foot the Biebrza River and extensive meadows surrounding the town of Goniadz and pinewoods near Olszowa Droga. Hotel Zbyszko, Goniadz for 2 nights.
1/6/03
Biebrza Marshes southern basin. From Goniadz travelled southwest on R670 crossing the main R65 onto the Carska Droga (Tsar road) via Dobarz, Gugny and Laskowiec to R64. West on R64 to cross the bridge at Wizna and north along a minor road along the west bank of the Biebrza River to Brzostowo. In the evening returned along same route and visited Barwik until dusk.
2/6/03
Goniadz to Bialystock. Visited Bialystock fishponds at Dojlidy on the southeast edge of the city off the main R19. Proceeded south and east on R19 and R685 via Hajnowka to Bialowieza village. Evening explored on foot the Palace Park and village area. Hotel Bialowieza for 3 nights.
3/6/03
Morning visit to Palace Park in Bialowieza and Bison Park. Afternoon visit to the National Park strict reserve with Forest Guide.
4/6/03
Siemianowka Reservoir. From Bialowieza village to Hajnowka and north on R687 to Bondary and east on R686 to Bachury and Ciskowa on the northeast shoreline.
Late afternoon walk in Bialowieza forest along the Zebra Zubra (Bison's ribs) trail and Palace Park.
5/6/03
Morning visit to Stare Bialowieza in Bialowieza forest. Returned to Bialystock for afternoon train to Warsaw.
Biebrza Marshes
Biebrza Marshes is the largest National Park in Poland comprising 60,000 ha. The Biebrza River flows through the centre of the area and is one of the last remaining natural unmodified river floodplains in Europe.
The river floods extensively during the early spring. The floods recede to expose a vast area of swamps, marshes, reedbeds, species rich meadows and wet alder willow and birch woodlands. The area is farmed traditionally with summer grazing and late season hay cutting on the meadows. Drier sandy areas are planted with conifers mostly pine, which adds to the range of habitats available.
The area supports 180 breeding species of bird including important European breeding populations of Greater Spotted Eagle, Aquatic Warbler, Great Snipe and Corncrake. Mammals comprise 48 species including Elk, Beaver, Otter and Wolf.
I visited the Southern Basin of the Biebrza River visiting the areas around Goniadz, Dobarz, Gugny, Laskowiec, Wizna, Brzostowo and Barwik. At the time of my visit in late May and early June the weather had been dry and the spring floods had dropped lowering water levels. The traditional Great Snipe lek at Barwik had dried out and possibly due to the late season no birds were heard or seen. Early May is peak time for the lek site.
A day permit is needed to visit the National Park and permits are available at hotels and the National Park office in Goniadz.
Bialystock Fishponds
This is a large complex of commercial carp ponds on the edge of Bialystock city with a combination of open water, reedbeds and willow scrub. It provides excellent and easy viewing along a system of dykes and tracks. Access is free.
Bialowieza Forest
Bialowieza Forest is a massive tract of lowland forest extending across the border region between Poland and Belorussia. The total forest area extends to 1,500 sq km with a core strict reserve of 40 sq km on the edge of Bialowieza village, which has not been felled or managed for 400 years. The forest comprises oak, lime, hornbeam, ash and spruce and areas of wet alder and willow. There are also open clearings, wet meadows, streams and haymeadows around the villages. The Palace Park provides open parkland, meadows and ponds.
The area is most famous for its European Bison and other mammals include wolf. The host of breeding bird species extends to over 200 species.
During my visit to Bialowieza I visited the strict reserve, only possible with a forest guide, the Palace park area, wet alder forest along the Zebra Zubra trail and Stare Bialowieza, a site with massive 400 year old oaks towering to over 40m.
Siemianowka Reservoir
This large reservoir created along the floodplain of the Narew River lies approximately one hour north of Bialowieza Forest and is well worth a full day. The site has an abundance of wetland habitats including open water, emergent swamp, wet meadows and willow scrub. The surrounding land comprises very low intensity farmland, flower rich haymeadows and extensive conifer and broadleaved woodlands. The northeast corner of the site around the village of Ciskowa and the area between the white pumping stations is excellent. This site is on the border with Belorussia and as with the area around Bialowieza care should be taken not to stray over the border on unmarked minor tracks. Get a good map and if in doubt turn back.
List of Bird Species Recorded
Little Grebe - several pairs at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Great Crested Grebe - common at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Red-necked Grebe - 2 pairs at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Black-necked Grebe - 4 pairs at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Bittern - booming male heard in Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Little Bittern - 1 male seen in flight at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Grey Heron - common in Biebrza marshes, Bialystock fishponds and Siemianowka reservoir.
Black Stork - 5 seen in Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03 and 1 at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03. Widespread in suitable habitat.
White Stork - very common, seen daily with nesting pairs in every village and town. 22 in a ploughed field outside Goniadz were the largest group seen.
Mute Swan - common in Biebrza marshes, Bialystock fishponds and Siemianowka reservoir.
Greylag Goose - 8 seen in flight at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Mallard - common, seen daily.
Gadwall - 2 males seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Shoveler - 1 male seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Garganey - 4 males seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Pochard - 20+ seen at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Tufted Duck - 6 seen at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Goldeneye - 3 females seen in flight in conifer woods at Biebrza marshes on the evening of 31/5/03.
White tailed Eagle - 1 sub adult hunting coots at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Greater Spotted Eagle - 1 adult seen at Brzostowo, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03. Good views enabling underwing pattern to be recorded. 2 distant eagles could not be positively identified but were either Greater or Lesser Spotted Eagles.
Lesser Spotted Eagle - 4 in flight over Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03 and 2 displaying at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Marsh Harrier - common at Biebrza marshes and Siemianowka reservoir with 20+ seen daily. 1 seen at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Hen Harrier - 1 male seen hunting over arable fields near Brzostowo, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03 and 1 male at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Montagu's Harrier - 1 female hunting on open meadows at Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
Honey Buzzard - 2 seen at Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
Common Buzzard - common with up to 10 daily.
Kestrel - surprisingly scarce with only 1 seen at Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Hobby - 1 seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Pheasant - 2 seen on the edge of Goniadz, Biebrza marshes on 31/5/03.
Spotted Crake - 1 heard at Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Corncrake - common in haymeadows at Biebrza marshes with 25+ calling around Goniadz on 31/5/03 and 1/6/03. 3 calling in meadows at Palace Park, Bialowieza on 2/6/03. A delight to hear so many, Northern Ireland was like this once, before the EU!!
Moorhen - small numbers seen at Biebrza marshes and Siemianowka reservoir.
Coot - present in good numbers at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Crane - 4 seen at Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03 and 5 at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Lapwing - common breeding wader throughout Biebrza marshes.
Little Ringed Plover - 2 seen on the banks of Biebrza river at Brzostowo on 1/5/03.
Common Snipe - very common breeding wader in all areas, seen daily.
Woodcock - 2 roding males seen at Barwik, Biebrza marshes on the evening of 1/6/03.
Black tailed Godwit - widespread breeding wader throughout Biebrza marshes.
Curlew - 1 seen near Laskowiec, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Redshank - common breeding wader throughout Biebrza marshes.
Black headed Gull - common, seen daily.
Herring Gull - small numbers seen at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and larger numbers seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Common Tern - 10+ at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and 15 at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Little Tern - 1 seen along the Biebrza river at Brzostowo on 1/5/03.
Black Tern - common with 20+ on the Biebrza river at Goniadz on 31/5/03 and 6 at Brzostowo on 1/6/03. 3 seen at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and very common at Siemianowka reservoir with 40+ seen on 4/6/03.
White winged Black Tern - scarce perhaps due to low water levels. 1 seen on the Biebrza River at Brzostowo on 1/6/03 and 2 at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Whiskered Tern - common, 20+ at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and 50+ at Siemianowka on 4/6/03.
Stock Dove - 2 seen in flight at Bialowieza forest on 4/6/03.
Collared Dove - very common in towns and villages, seen daily.
Woodpigeon - fairly common in open countryside, seen daily.
Cuckoo - common, seen and heard daily in all habitats.
Tawny Owl - 1 heard in Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Great Grey Owl - 1 adult seen in the strict reserve at Bialowieza forest on 3/6/03. Seen on tree stump at range of 10m giving stunning views. The bird had been present in the Bialowieza forest for several weeks and was the only bird found in Poland during 2003. Great Grey Owl occasionally nests in the Belorussian sector of the forest.
Common Swift - very common, seen daily.
Hoopoe - 1 seen from the Warsaw to Bialystock train on 31/5/03 and 1 seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Wryneck - 1 seen at Palace Park, Bialowieza on 2/6/03.
Black Woodpecker - 1 male heard in the strict reserve Bialowieza forest on 3/6/04
Great Spotted Woodpecker - commonly seen around the Bialowieza forest and Palace Park area, seen daily from 2/6/03 to 5/6/03.
Middle Spotted Woodpecker - 1 male seen at Stare Bialowieza on 5/6/03.
Lesser Spotted Woodpecker - 1 female seen in strict reserve Bialowieza forest on 3/6/04
White backed Woodpecker - 1 female seen feeding for 10 minutes at close range on Zebra Zubra trial on 4/6/03.
Skylark - very common in all open areas, seen daily.
Crested Lark - 3 seen at Bialystock train station on 5/6/03.
Sand Martin - scarce with only 4 seen on the Biebrza River on 1/6/03.
House Martin - very common, seen daily.
Swallow - very common, seen daily.
Tawny Pipit - 1 seen on sand tracks around Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Meadow Pipit - common on all open areas, seen daily.
Tree Pipit - 2 seen at Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
White Wagtail - very common, seen daily.
Yellow Wagtail - very common throughout Biebrza marshes and at Siemianowka reservoir. All birds of flava subspecies.
Citrine Wagtail - 1 female seen on wet meadows at Ciskowa, Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03. A distant very bright "yellow"wagtail may have been a male but could not be positively identified. A rare bird with a restricted European breeding range.
Wren - common in mature woodland at Bialowieza, seen on 3/6/03 and 4/6/03.
Robin - scarce in Biebrza marshes with one seen on 1/6/03.Common in mature woodland at Bialowieza, seen on 3/6/03.
Thrush Nightingale - very common in small patches of scrub, gardens and woodland. Heard daily and 1 seen after a minor trash in the Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
Black Redstart - common in all villages and towns, seen daily.
Whinchat - very common in open meadows areas, seen daily.
Blackbird - very common, seen daily.
Song Thrush - common only in mature woodland at Bialowieza.
Fieldfare - very common in all areas including Warsaw parks, seen daily. Totally replaces Mistle thrush.
Grasshopper Warbler - fairly common, heard in evenings on wet meadows at Biebrza marshes on 31/5/03 and 1/6/03
River Warbler - fairly common throughout Biebrza marshes in dense wet alder and willow scrub. 6 heard and 1 seen on 1/6/03 with 1 heard at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03.
Sedge Warbler - very common in wetlands at Biebrza marshes, Bialowieza and Siemianowka reservoir. Seen daily.
Aquatic Warbler - 2 males seen at Grobla Honczarowska, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03. Present in the wet sedge meadows around the observation tower. White canes indicate a breeding territory. Biebrza marshes support 2000 pairs and are of international importance.
Reed Warbler - 10+ seen in dense emergent waterside vegetation at Bialystock fishponds on 2/6/03 and 5 at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Marsh Warbler - common in dense scrub, ditches and thickets. Seen and heard daily.
Great Reed Warbler - fairly common in emergent waterside vegetation along the Biebrza River, Bialystock fishponds and Siemianowka reservoir. Seen daily.
Icterine Warbler - very common in all areas including gardens, parks and open woodland. Seen daily.
Garden Warbler - fairly common in dense woodland areas, heard at Biebrza on 1/6/03 and Palace Park Bialowieza on 2/6/03 and 3/6/03. Less frequent than Blackcap.
Blackcap - very common in all areas, seen and heard daily.
Barred Warbler - 1 male near Goniadz, Biebrza marshes on 31/5/03 and 1 male in scrub areas on the edge of the Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
Whitethroat - very common in all areas, seen daily.
Lesser Whitethroat - common but not as frequent as Whitethroat. Seen and heard mostly around settlements at Biebrza and Bialowieza on 1/6/03, 2/6/03 and 3/6/03.
Chiffchaff - very common in all areas, seen and heard daily. Commonest leaf warbler in eastern Poland.
Willow Warbler - common but restricted to wet woodland and scrub at Biebrza marshes and Siemianowka reservoir, seen and heard on 31/5/03, 1/6/03 and 4/6/03.
Wood Warbler - common in mature woodlands including pine forest at Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03 and throughout Bialowieza forest. Seen and heard daily.
Goldcrest - 3 seen in pinewoods around Olszowa Droga, Biebrza on 31/5/03.
Firecrest - 2 seen at Stare Bialowieza on 5/6/03.
Spotted Flycatcher - Fairly common seen in small numbers throughout Biebrza marshes and Bialowieza.
Collared Flycatcher - Common in mature forest and open parkland at Bialowieza, with 15+ seen in strict reserve on 3/6/03 and 8+ at Stare Bialowieza on 5/6/03.
Great Tit - very common, seen daily.
Blue Tit - very common, seen daily.
Coal Tit - scarce only 2 seen in pinewoods around Olszowa Droga, Biebrza on 31/5/03.
Marsh Tit - a total of 5 seen in Palace Park on 2/6/03 and 3/6/03.
Crested Tit - 2 seen in pinewoods around Olszowa Droga, Biebrza on 31/5/03.
Nuthatch - elusive with 1 seen in the Palace Park, Bialowieza on 3/6/03.
Golden Oriole - common, heard daily with 1 male seen at Goniadz on 31/5/03 and 1 male at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Red Backed Shrike - fairly common with up to 5 males seen at Biebrza marshes on 31/5/03 and 1/6/03. 3 males seen at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03 and 1 male seen on the edge of Bialowieza village on 5/6/03.
Great Grey Shrike - 2 seen at Grobla Honczarowska, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03 and a pair feeding chicks in pine trees at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Jay - common seen and heard daily.
Nutcracker - 2 seen in flight in hazel scrub along the trail into Grobla Honczarowska, Biebrza marshes on 1/6/03.
Jackdaw - very common, seen daily.
Rook - very common, seen daily.
Hooded Crow - common, seen daily.
Raven - scarce with 2 seen at Zebra Zubra, Bialowieza forest on 4/6/03 and 1 at Stare Bialowieza on 5/6/03.
Starling - very common, seen daily.
House Sparrow - very common, seen daily.
Tree Sparrow - very common, seen daily.
Chaffinch - very common, seen daily.
Greenfinch - common, seen daily.
Serin - common seen daily especially around towns and villages.
Goldfinch - very common, seen daily.
Hawfinch - only seen at Bialowieza, where easily seen in the Palace Park with 15 on 3/6/03.
Linnet - fairly common, seen daily in small numbers.
Common Rosefinch - common and easily seen throughout Biebrza marshes and at. Siemianowka reservoir. Present in smaller numbers at Bialystock fishponds and wet meadows around Bialowieza. Favours wet meadows with willow and alder scrub.
Yellowhammer - very common, seen daily in large numbers.
Ortolan Bunting - scarce, 1 male seen on the outskirts of Goniadz, Biebrza marshes on 31/5/03 and 1 male at Siemianowka reservoir on 4/6/03.
Reed Bunting - very common throughout Biebrza marshes and Siemianowka Reservoir.
Corn Bunting - fairly common in agricultural areas around Goniadz, Biebrza marshes and the area between Bialowieza and Siemianowka reservoir.
List of Mammal Species Recorded
Elk - Easily seen in the evening in Biebrza marshes emerging from the wet alder woods to graze on the open marshes with five seen at Barwik, including 1 at less than 10m charging off though alders and two at Grobla Honczarowska on 1/6/03.
Beaver - Present throughout Biebrza and evidence of tree felling easily seen along tracks.
Wild Boar - Four seen on the edge of Bialowieza village on the evening of 4/6/03. Large numbers in Bialowieza forest prevent villagers growing maize and cereals and former arable areas are reverting to scrub.
European Bison - Up to 400 roam Bialowieza Forest in strictly protected areas. Captive breeding animals can be seen in the Bison Park with other native Polish mammals.
Godfrey McRoberts 2004 - all text and photographs.
